DO NOT USE THIS! | HOW TO WIRE PID CONTROLLER | Pls check out the Updated Version in the Description

[@alexib-1]

I have seen 50 videos on how to make a ceramic furnace and control the temperature. This is the first video where someone clearly explains how to control the temperature. Thanks so much

[@steelcider-9508]

This the first video that fully explained wirings PIDs and actually made sense to me. Thank you so much I am way less scared to try this while building my own oven!

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Thank you, glad it helps you somehow ❤ Your comment encourage me a lot ! Cheers !

[@hashwood6468]

This is the only video that has really helped me in connecting my pid and circut

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Thank you ! Hope it will help your project somehow. BTW, Please check out my update in the description, there is a small modification that you can do with the On/Off Switch to make it run smoother

[@Fishy1764]

well ive got to say im absolutely rubbish with electrics but thanks to your excellent video i picked it up really easy. thankyou.

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Thank you and so glad this helps - but please make sure to use my updated version video in this channel. This diagram has some flaws in it and I have updated a new video (Link in the description). Due to youtube algorithms, I could not edit this video. Cheers Dave!

[@gardensofparadiselandscapi8881]

Tank you for this video. I a question why the SSR get so hot that burn to he touch?

[@pbkeftensaljum1649]

Thank you sir. I've looking for this since iam amateur on electricity

[@unclealig]

well explained. is there something special i have to programm on my PID controller when using zero crossing SSR's like cycle times or hysteresis?

[@paullynch1938]

What size wire do you use, is it high temp but what size, thank you

[@trapper8015]

Very good explained. What if I don't want to have an alarm?

[@husainmithaiwala8898]

Can the circuit breaker be bypassed here? Or using another on/off toggle switch in place of automatic circuit breaker would do?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Hi bro, High Capacity On/off switch would just do the job and the Circuit Breaker is one them and it works Flawlessly.

[@Vikingman2024]

Excellent video...Now I understand how it all works, even if I use a different PID controller! Thank you!

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

But please check out my updated video for better Switch

[@samuelcalderon3807]

If my heating elements give or takes 30 amp... what kind of switch on/off should i put how many amps must be support ? And what kind of ssr (amp) should i put...thanks¡¡

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Dear Samuel, 30amps are quite high. But you can have a look at my updated video (link in the description). I think that updated video might help you. Stay safe !

[@samuelcalderon3807]

@@TNCXBUNBOX lol... thank you so much for answer me i have seem some of your videos and they are so great.. i have 4 heating elements and they take 1500 watts each one.. so of i connect everyone un parallel they take almost 30 amp.. my question is which ssr?could i use 40 o 50 amp... and which switch on off could i use.. i appreciate your answer... and thank you so much really appreciate

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

@@samuelcalderon3807 Hi Sam, as if you see in my Updated Video - The On/Off switch is wired differently to avoid overheat so pretty much any switch can handle the job. Regarding SSR, for each Element, I would say 40DA is good too in your case. As you can see in my other videos, I am running 2x2000W Elements and they are fine. Please pay attention to the ventilation, heatsink system in your Controlling box. And also a good Circuit Breaker would be needed. amzn.to/3rZWtU7 All the best,

[@kentownage]

if i want multiple heating elements to be controlled by the one PID, do is just splice in the wires from the heating elements so they make one wire when entering the solid relay?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

For safety reason, I would suggest Each Heating element will need to run thru one separate SSR and multiple SSR can controlled by 1 PID. But base one my research, some said you can use 1 SSR ... However, I prefer to have multiple SSR and because I have seen it in reality. Hope this can help you

[@danielarredondo2943]

Hello: in 110 V it would be positive (+) y neutral (-). in 220v it would be phase 1 (+) and phase 2 (-) ??

[@Afrancois]

Hi do you offer support ?

[@randycornelius2665]

What are you using for A PI D ?b

[@NewsThatMatterUsa]

My concern is for 240v as there is two hot leads where do I run the other hot ? I’m doing this for powder coat oven using oven heating elements only going for 500 degrees total but on large 5ft oven

[@alexg8406]

Have the PID controller trigger another SSR. Just connect the DC side of another SSR to the same pins as the first.

[@sonicfx747]

thank you was very helpful

[@misekerdebebe457]

Very helpful! Thanks a lot.

[@seanscimeca1]

Great Video... It has been super helpful. Allowed me to wire up the 120v version perfectly. I am now considering adding an additional coil as the single coil will not reach and hold the 1965F temperature that I want. Do you have a diagram for wiring 240v in the same configuration? Or a recommendation on how to get more heat from the 120V version? I did not calculate the length of the Kanthal wire. I am running 18 Gauge Kanthal wire but only around 5 feet of it after coiling.

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Hi sean, The Current decides How hot your Element will be, and as you know: I=V/R, I would say 9to 10amp would be ideal, so reduce the Resistance might be the option here, however, to have the wire length that you need/desired - a thicker Coil 16GA or 14GA (lower resistance but longer wire) should be replace here. Mine is running on 220V, we are working on the same diagram, so don't worry.

[@seanscimeca1]

@@TNCXBUNBOX Thank you so much for your response. I ran closer to 4 feet when all was said and done. My issue with the 110v is that it doesnt seem to want to heat that length of wire. I had to make it shorter to get it to heat up. That caused a shorter run wire inside the oven which maxed out my internal temperature around 1700 F. I am now looking at two different options. One is upgrading to the 240V set up using a converter to take my 110v power up to 220v or, running two coils on separate plugs not on the same 20a breaker. What I cant figure out is how to wire the 240V from the plug to the breaker, then to the ssr. 240V has two hot leads so do those get combined on one possitive side with white or neutral wire running to the negative side of the breaker?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

@@seanscimeca1 Hi Sean, Be sure to check my updated video in the Description, it should help. Really hope you succeed with your project.

[@gutaecho5427]

I use 220vac, so it is very helpful to me sir! thanks a lot!

[@seanscimeca1]

Hi, If you are using 22ov - how are you wiring your plug to the circuit breaker in the diagram? 220v has two hot wires so I am confused how it is connected.

[@aristotlelabsolutions]

Please Share vedio of hot plate with magnetic stirr wiring and connection

[@rom17174]

You have yo add a 2nd ssr on the négative side of the coil

[@crobin2045]

Just to clarify - the switch would go in between the negative terminal of the SSR and the 10 on the PID? Thanks.

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Yes! Works like a charm ! Thanks for reading my update !

[@mauriceterndrup]

Thank you very much 😊

[@lokomaniaxxx]

Hey ! Love the video. What would happen if I want to have 3 heating elements ? Do I need more relays or how would I do it ?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Thank you and to my knowledge, in this case you will need 3 SSR for each Heating Elements - And use the PID to control these 3 SSR - Please make sure to read my update in the Description for the switch

[@freytube1]

what brand scr did you buy? Thanks

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Hi, may I ask what is Scr?

[@freytube1]

@@TNCXBUNBOX sorry solid contact relay. I just bought one 25 amp rating. Thank you

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

That would be definitely fine since we are running around 10amp. 40DA is just more than enough I believe !

[@wes7310]

where would you connect a ground cable to from the main power( High Cap Plug) U.S. 220v? Just to the metal on the oven control box?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Please connect the Ground Cable thru both kiln cover and the controlling box for safety

[@mauriceterndrup]

Hi there. How would it look if it was a AC circuit?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Hi Michel, please check out the updated video in the description , it's AC and I just mark live and neutral + - for the ease of following and translating. Hope the updated video will help you.

[@mixme8655]

Thank you sir

[@SteelHeartCustoms]

Her what size wire do you use for wiring

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

1. I just use 2x2.5mm (14 AWG)for all my PID wires. 2. For the Heating Elements - I used 2x4mm (12 AWG) High temperature fiberglass Wire. 3. And for the main power source - I use 2x10mm (8 AWG) Wire since I have 1 oven, 1 kiln and planning to add a bigger Kiln.

[@ploscnicu]

​@@TNCXBUNBOX Hey, great video, really what I was looking for, one question - how do you make the connection between the heating element wire and the 'normal wire' - I mean with the on/off switch and the solid relay ? I'm afraid it might be damaged because of the heat emitted from the heating element What do you think of the REX-C100 PID? Thanks again for the video.

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

@@ploscnicu Hi Nicu, As you can see in the video I use the Steel Bolts (this works great) to connect the Heating Element to the Heat resistant Wire and the heat resistant wire I connect to normal Wire thru "Ceramic Terminal Block" and it works perfectly. (A good ventilation space, maybe a small fan for your PID box would be good, too) Regarding On/Off switch - Please read my update in the description - I changed it to switch the SSR instead of using it to switch directly from the main power cable. And about Rex-C100: If you are working on the same project that I did then please looking for a PID which has a range upto 1300C degree- If I'm not mistaken, Rex-C100 is only upto 400C.

[@ploscnicu]

@@TNCXBUNBOX Tank you for the response, so after more research I found that there are several models for the Rex C100 - I bought the one that goes up to 1300 as the one you used takes too much time to get here.

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Great to hear that from you ! Cheers !!

[@tonybaloney5606]

What if you want 2 burners?

[@ronallens6204]

They should include a plot for the sensor Mine is K, stiring ice water the sensor says 31F, and boiling water is 204F... so for an incubator i am looking for 100F to be accurate, but instead it looks to be 6F off instead if the 4F expected... must not be a linear one or the math in the pid is off.

[@nicklaspedersen7081]

Are you using a 220v solid state relay?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Yes I Am. But the SSR can run from 24 to 380vac, most SSRs have pretty wide range, so don't be worry, just have a good look on its lable 👍

[@lokomaniaxxx]

How much of a beaker do I need ? If I have a me heater ?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Please tell me clearer ! Cheers

[@SteelHeartCustoms]

can you add multiple elements? if so how to wire them Thank You!

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Yes we can. Each Element will need separate SSR and to control the SSR, just connect (+)&(-) from the PiD to each SSR(which control each Element). I will try to make a video in my bigger project, hopefully I can show you on that. Cheers !

[@mishaelpac-es7233]

Can I use this to control the heating element in coffee roaster?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

PID is implemented in many uses and purposes - For heating, for cooking...ect. Hope you can figure out how to do it in your project ! Cheers

[@mishaelpac-es7233]

Thank you 😊

[@DemopVWgarage]

Could you do another video with 240 volts . 4x heating elements with 2 relays, lnkbird pid and timer?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Sure, I am working on it. Please wait for my upcoming video. (X3 Heating Elements, 3SsR, ramp&soak PID)

[@ahzija9242]

Pls. Include fan 12 volts. Thanks.

[@nanibelloua4962]

How to define pid parameters pls

[@erimeljc5013]

je vais encore attendre mon colis !

[@funnyhome2322]

Good video

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Thank you ❤

[@NguyenNguyen-wd4ki]

Very greats

[@mrxmry3264]

sounds to me like this thing can only turn the heating element on or off which of course means it is not a PID controller

[@supdeval]

super merci

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Please make sure to check out the updated version in my channel's videos or via Link in the description!

[@tauroromeroreategui2230]

Xfavor podría esplicar en español

[@tysondundas1947]

Switching Neutrals is a big NO In countries that reference the neutral of the ac supply to earth.

[@jameshopkins1260]

It looks like the alarm was a 24vdc wired to a 120vac source. Don't do that!!!

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

hi James, Please check out my link: bit.ly/38U4JwM There are many types of these Alarm bells you can choose from. Mine is running on 220V.

[@jaibengalurubengaluru4671]

A/C CONNECTION IS WRONG.IT WILL BURN WITHIN SECONDS ON OFF SWITCH....Pls dont spread wrong connection diagram for beginners.animation is good.on/off switch out to go controller.neutral to coil from MCB. LINE from relay is correct.

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Oh. I did make a new video. And change this video title to not use. Thank you for your advice. I really appreciate it.

[@DontStopBrent]

Either I am completely losing my hearing or the sound has a problem....or I am drunk.

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Please check out the updated video in the Description 👌😅😂

[@BELLA-lt2ws]

Why dont you just take the video down , the title is confusing

[@cyrildanko8422]

DON'T put SWITCH on neutrals!!! this connection is DANGEROUS and WRONG

[@naveedaslam5800]

Shut the music

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Yes sir, next video I will notice. :)) Warm regards,

[@naveedaslam5800]

@@TNCXBUNBOX thank you sir,

[@bryansoleta2101]

you think your robot.

[@SM-jw5qp]

Can we speak?

[@TNCXBUNBOX]

Please contact me via [e-mail] if needed. Warm Regards,

[@bryansoleta2101]

bad sound

[@dennymcelhaney8652]

Need to delete this