Do THIS before setting up your shop!

[@ShopNation]

Go to drinkag1.com/shopnation to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs.

[@VeezyLife]

Your pool punp and other pool equipment/ pool system will probably draw a bit to alot more than you think they will. Yhis entirely dependsnon features tho and I would have to know whay featurea youre getting installed to beat reccomend how much total power you'd be drawing. Im an electrical contractor and Ive installed all the pool equipment on 4 jobs total. Not every pool company installs their own. Bigger companies usually do but I have a pool contractor who hires me to do all electrical. If you have basic minimum setup...I would plan for using a minimum of 30amps dedicated for the pool equipment to play it safe. Thats for a basic system with no special features. Salt water adds another item or two, heated pool adds a few more pieces of equipment and a hell of alot more amperage. 50amp for the heat pumps alone. But of your goong dor the average basic meeds that most people get, i would pre-plan dedicating 30amps to pool even if you only end up using 20 keep that 10amp spare for use on pool in future when you need it. You wouldn't believe the number of things that people don't realize they need early on until after they are using the pool. Ive installed alot of stuff for people that were adding to a recent pool build and I ask why they didnt do it then and they always say "I didnt realize i needed/wanted if until after we were o6it using the pool all the time"

[@VeezyLife]

Instead of walling off an area, just put them outside and build a little shorter wall and roof around it to match house. i have my air compressor installed outside with a wall ans roof same as my house built on it. Bringing the line into the shop ia so easy its def worth it and then you save the space for more shop stuff

[@VeezyLife]

Put your table saw on heavy duty castors. Youll thank me later

[@MultiGamingUniverse]

I would say see if you can add more cabinet space. you do have a lot of wall space from what I can tell.

[@LukedriveitlikearentalRo-ri7tm]

Hey don't make dust collection part of the foundations because I am in a wood shop at school and it ended up getting plugged full of scraps and saw dust they hired a guy to come and pull it all out and was not cheap also make a separate room for cnc and put sound proofing in the walls and don't make the concrete 4in thick make it 6 at least. Plz respond and tell me what you think

[@stevet47]

I am in the final stages of an extremely similar build. 1,000sqft in backyard, had grade to deal with, includes bathroom & utility room, matches house, etc. My recommendations: -Build with resale in mind, but don’t compromise your shop for the future owner. Ditch the 8x16” garage door, you lose too much valuable wall space and limited wall space means limited tool placement. Go with 2 single-car doors and wall off one of them on the inside to gain back 8’ of wall. -Plan your electric well. Much easier and cheaper to add it now than down the road. I have 19 circuits. Don’t forget a circuit for a small point-of-use water heater. Also, put in ceiling outlets for tools in the middle of the shop so you aren’t tripping over cords . Include an extra for a cord reel. Also put an airline in the ceiling for a hose reel. -Yes on the slop sink, it’ll come in handy. -Oils from metalworking can ruin wood finishes, and sawdust can ruin ways on metal lathes, mills, etc. I’d recommend putting the metalshop in the back and have a curtain cross the shop that you can close when welding/grinding. Then make covers for any precision metal working tools (mill) when not being used. I had to ditch the idea of metalworking in my shop as making it work comprised my woodworking area too much. Also, used Torrit dust collectors for metal are all over Facebook marketplace in my area, it may be worth looking into one. -Don’t overthink duct runs; I wasted too much time planning underfloor ducts, utility trench, etc. just run them along the wall or overhead. -Don’t skimp on insulation and drywall. BIBS is far better than batts, way cheaper than spray foam, and is good for sound deadening. Use all 5/8” drywall. Cost is the same, but is is stiffer, stronger, keeps more sound in the shop to keep your neighbors happy, and is fire rated. -Consider your floor finish, welding/grinding is rough on pretty much everything. Maybe just use a densifier or have the concrete polished. -LOTS of lighting, put them on dimmers to turn it down when not needed. I think that’s it for now, lol.

[@txdxrx92]

Not sure if your are still looking for feedback here. I've been teaching woodshop and metal shop for 8 years and I've been around a lot of spaces. I've been in this position with the shop at my school before so I feel your desire to get it right the first time. Dust collection is a huge beast. Its easier to fight directly at the source. If you can get good runs to your machines you will be a happy camper. I would also add a few floor drops for picking up piles made by push brooms. In my dream shop my dust collector and compressor would be put in their own sound proof room. The collector in the shop I run at school is obnoxiously loud and makes it difficult to want to be in the space while working. The English teachers in the classroom above my shop would also second this thought. Since you put out videos and do recordings I would say this is probably a big priority for you. Jet makes these fantastic and quiet air filtration units that hang from the ceiling which you may want to invest in for catching what the collector misses. They put out a ton of CFMs and are dramatically quiet and affordable for what they are. I believe they are called AFS-1000C. If possible I would also prioritize separating the metal shop and woodshop portion of your space. You'd be amazed at how quickly dry/superfine sawdust will go up in flames. One shop I've seen in the past achieved this separation using a roll up garage door. When metal fabrication was happening the door would be closed to contain debris and sparks in the metal shop area. Grinder dust and debris also manages to permeate every surface in a metal shop regardless of how well it is mitigated. I really like the second layout you display in the video and I wonder if you could basically continue the wall of the bathroom down to the front of the shop creating a separate metal working area. This could then connect to the rest of the shop via a roll up door like I mentioned. The door could be left open when not working with metal to promote a free flowing and bigger feeling space and then be closed when needed. The second recommendation I have is to keep material storage near the main garage door to ease how far you have to walk with it. I would then put the table saw and miter saw near this area so that you don't have to try and maneuver full sized materials around the space at any given time. This is honestly one of the few times I've ever commented on a video lol. Not trying to spark any debates here just trying to offer up some experiences I've had. I wish you good luck!

[@bull-porky]

Looking forward to the series! You might want to consider an additional, external, door to the bathroom. Even in the cleanest of metal shops, not sure if I’d want barefoot pool people walking through an area where you’ve ground and cutting metal. If you have the room, a simple sidewalk on the same side as the entry door and external door could help address this. Good luck!

[@python3574]

Not only that, kids with wet feet running into a concrete floor shop are definitely going to slip and fall. Not being a Safety Sally, here, but I've lived it.....multiple times.

[@rickcamp5734]

Came to make this comment, in addition to the safety issue, you don’t want wet kids putting their pool water wetness on your tools… perfect recipe for rust!

[@Richard_uk]

I thought the same. Even if the only door is to the outside its better than wet kids or drunk adults running into shop.

[@backpackdesigner]

Thought the same, but it looks like it´s already there and was just not visible from the camera angles. See 16:28

[@bull-porky]

@ 1:59 into the video the exterior view seems to show a door behind the “grill and chill” station, but the inside blueprints did not denote a door later in the video. I believe he replied to another comment mentioning there is another door as suggested, but he didn’t call it out explicitly in the video. This is going to be a great series!

[@ottawavalleybushcraft]

Architectural Technologist here. I would suggest continuing the wall of the bathroom across the width of the shop to partition off the back space. This new wall would serve as a backbone in a sense to service both spaces. The rear space could host all of the metal working equipment and have type-x drywall or cement board to further protect against sparks. The front part of the shop could be the wood shop with tons of wall space added. Moving? The partition could be removed to accommodate a vehicle garage conversion. Cheers, Ottawa Mike 🇨🇦

[@peterd1234567890]

Literally was on my way to say this. For me the back room would be for metal work and grinding focusing on ventilation because of all the particulates, you could even put your compressor in there as everything would be loud in there so you would be wearing earplugs any way. the new wall would be where I put my chop saw to the right of the roller for I'd put like a mechanic stuff so you could work on a car and everything else wood working stuff

[@philsowers]

Agreed, my brother in law built a pool "house" with a full bathroom big enough as a changing room, toilet, sink, standing shower but it also contains and hides all the pool pump equipment you're going to need, saves it from the elements and being an eye sore. So unless you plan on building another shed for the pool pumps, don't cut out the bathroom corner for interest, just follow the the rectangle. If you feel the need for interest, just build a porch, don't mess with the foundation & framing.

[@MATT.04]

​@@philsowers I don't think that's what he meant. As I understand it, he is talking about continuing the inside bathroom wall. Dividing the inside of the shop into a smaller back section for metal, and a larger front for wood, separating the 2, and providing extra wall space to hang things to, or set things toward. Right now it is a huge open space, of which you need a little for workbenches where you wanna walk around at. But if there is too much open space, you cannot really utilise it to its greatest potential.

[@philsowers]

@@MATT.04 If i can simplify, i was just suggesting not cutting that corner at all, they'll wish they had the space if/when a pool pump house is likely going to need to be built.

[@MATT.04]

​@@philsowersyeah, i got that. But it looked like you thought the original commenter meant the outside wall as well, as you started it with, i agree, but then proceeded to talk about a totally different wall. But absolutely, that cutout corner seems like valuable space that can be put to good use .

[@johnproulx4625]

Habitable trusses, add a small second story for the compressor and dust collection you could build a small freight elevator/ dumb waiter, and fold down ladder to access. Didn’t notice any windows either

[@tjstengel]

Only suggestion I have is to leave enough space by the garage door to back a vehicle in, at least partially so you can load / unload items if it happens to be raining. Or at least have the items in that area easily moveable out of the way. Another thing I have heard is usually having either the first tool that would be used with woodworking close or closest to the garage door so that material can go from the vehicle to basically where it needs to be without having to move it all over the shop. Just a couple ideas.

[@susan_halla]

Architect here - take that for what it’s worth. Think about where your electrical service is coming in - you’ll have to accommodate a wall panel somewhere, and that can monkey with wall space plans. Also think about other items such as your trash and recycling - that can take up a lot of space. Don’t hesitate to use some of the garage door space as wall space; you won’t need the whole width to move things in and out, so recapture some of that as wall space, similar to what Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) did in his Colorado home shop. Speaking of other KZbinrs, check out how Frank Howarth of Frank Makes did his in-floor dust collection runs; there is some info there to glean. Also check out how April Wilkerson separated her woodworking and metal smithing areas. Gives you more wall space, too. Last, I would consider an Option 3 where the metal shop is in the back smaller (width-wise) section and the woodshop is the entire front part at the widest side to side section. Great video - hope this helps!

[@ShopNation]

All great! Thank you

[@abbyblack8144]

Dust collection and compressor room is an absolute must! Sound proof the closet like crazy you can make content on sound proofing techniques. Also I strongly suggest a door on the outside of the bathroom so you can get in and out without going through the shop! Good luck with the build! I’m excited to see the new series!

[@ARandomTrex]

That's a great idea. I think he mentioned a pool. You'll need an easy bathroom for guests. Since water is ran could plan an easy outdoor shower too.

[@robertvarano8853]

Of the two designs 2. My thoughts that you may have considered and just not mentioned: 1. Air compressor and or dust collector in a small lean to on the exterior. Even better then interior closet for noise isolation. 2. I’d consider putting a small shower in the bathroom. I know it’ll cost shop space but it would be nice to have a way to rinse off if I’m covered in saw dust from the shop or dirt mud from working outside without dragging it into the house.

[@michaeljames1248]

Agreed on the first suggestion but also can material storage be attached to the same area outside. Might need to extend the roof overhangs to accommodate. Also, with dust collection outside can you route the dust collection pipes on the outside, in a hidden way to give you the flexibility but also maintain the ascetic of the shop?

[@MarcusBuer]

About #2, I believe an outdoor open-air shower would be better, as it can serve both the shop and the garden/pool, and he wouldn't lose any shop space. This way he can clean himself after gardening without having to enter the shop. There are some showerheads for outdoors that are quite aesthetic, increasing the wife-approving factor.

[@stuartkorte1642]

Ditto on lean to. Could be part of foundation or built like an oversized bay window.

[@frijoli9579]

One caution on dust collection outside is "make-up" air. If you blow the dust outside, you have to pull in outside air for the shop, which creates HVAC issues.

[@southwest7977]

Why did you put in that cut in the back left corner. Higher ceilings? So future car garage with lifts. More resale than your content.

[@davidward1259]

Travis, one thing I would recommend is pull the front porch (pool side) out from 8' depth to 10' or even better 12' x 24' long. You will thank me later. I have a 10' covered back porch and wish it was deeper. By the time you get grills/smokers and a table out there, it can get tight between them and yours is 8' in the plans. Also the plumbing for an external shower stall and drain would be a great idea since you know you will have a pool at some point (unless you have a dedicated pool house in the plans also). Another option would be enlarge the bath to allow for a walk in shower and a door to the pool area. That will give you the option of a quick shower after yard work before jumping in the pool, or after a sweaty day in the shop, etc... If you brought that exterior wall all the way back to the rear building line, it gives you space for a utility/dust collector room. Also it will be less expensive to build a more square building. Every angle, bump out, etc.... adds costs and complexity. It's in the back so looks are not really a consideration for that change.

[@soupofpossibilities8537]

1. Welding tables close to the door. Use the open door space for your clearance. Build your work habits to throw the sparks out the door, not into the little piles of sawdust you missed under the cabinets. 2. (Strongly) Consider a fire suppression sprinkler system. They aren't that expensive. Risk/reward y'know. I'll be putting one in my soon-to-be-built barndo where I'll have shared wood- and metal-working space.

[@ShopNation]

Great tips

[@VE3BF]

I'm relativly new to wood working but I spent 35 years working in a metal shop so here are a few things to consider. If you plan to do welding then fume extraction with a curtain wall around your welding table is a must, the fumes are a major health hazard and welding soot will get into everything, your lumber, all of your table tops (table saw) and counter top, hand tools and walls. Metal cutting machines need cutting fluids and the fluid droplets and metal chips will fall onto the floor the chips will lodge into the soles of your shoes or boots and make thier way all over the shop so you floor needs to be slip resistant and resist high wear and tare from abrasion. Lastly your bath room needs a seperate door, you don't want pool people with bare feet or flip flops to walking through an oily metal chip covered floor to use the bathroom. Even your own shop footwear will introduce oil and shards into the bathroom and that will most likely get into your pool as well. the 2 8 foot door Idea from a previous comment is brilliant! build a removable wall in front of one of them on the inside, awesome!

[@brianbenton8478]

Looks awesome. One tip, if you have the budget, install an industrial attic lift against one of the walls. Put both the dust collection and air compressor into the attic. I know, this will most likely add weight that might need engineered beams to support. Once you insulate the attic, you wont hear the air compressor that much. Save your room, and put stuff that requires minimal maintenance into the attic. I would drain out of the soffit for compressor, and put a drop for dust drum outside if at all possible. Then you can put ceiling drops for dust where its needed. No need to screw up your floor with conduit trays and such. Another tip, make sure your dust collection is on point and you clean, clean, clean before welding in your dual function shop. Ask me how I know lol. Version 2 is my vote. So excited to watch this series. This stuff makes me happy lol.

[@jordanfrankfurt6978]

My grandfather built himself a manual crank attic lift for storing larger field equipment indoors without taking up shop space and it's probably the most useful/impressive part of his shop.

[@CaptainBlueTech]

My 2¢ are as follows: -Add an external shower/stall to help you rinse off if you get super dirty in the shop and to help kids/family rinse off pool water and clean up after pool time is over. -You should add a utility closet in the space between the outside bathroom door and the shop, right now thats fully open and if you add a wall there you still get some depth differentiation you talked about while adding a utility space without using up any internal space, this space can also double as pool equipment space. -I would remove the interior door to the bathroom, it's not that much to walk outside to go to the bathroom, it gives you more unbroken wall space, and it keeps curious kids from wandering into your shop through the connecting door/keeps you from having to make sure it stays locked, additionally if you reduce the doors you might be able to make that bathroom a bit smaller. -I would also add a big deep shop/mop sink right next to the bathroom, easy access water and dirty sink and if it's along the same wall as the existing sink/toilet in the bathroom there's essentially no extra plumbing. -I think I would also move the garage door over slightly to the left so that stub wall is a bit deeper as having those stub walls on the side help alot with storage and all that and can help not only your tool placement but could help with resale, I know when I look at a house where there is like no depth on the side of the garage door it doesn't really make me want to buy the place. -Im a bit confused on your truss layout because you didn't go to much into it, it seems like you are following the l shape and having 2 opposing truss layouts however your layout is I would HIGHLY recommend you make some stairs that go into the attic space and that you get trusses that maximize your attic space, you can make the stairs as small as you can with code but having permanent attic access would allow the storage in the attic to be VERY useful and extremely appealing for resale value, given your high truss height you would have alot of useable space up there. The main issue is where to put the stairs and thats where your layout comes into play If you have the layout I think you do then putting the staircase along that 21 foot back wall might be your best bet, you can have the stairs internal to the shop, separate and have a seperate door over by the external bathroom door or even have their access the utility room I talked about previously, the main thing is you would want the top of the stairs to come out roughly in the middle of the truss while following the pitch so that you dont waste overhead clearance for the stairs. Without knowing your layout exactly I unfortunately can't tell if you could fit stairs with a straight staircase but a single landing 1 turn staircase would almost certainly fit and no matter what staircase you use you can wall it up for better wallspace internally and you can design it so the space under the stairs is useable as part of storage or the utility space.

[@dmwi1549]

I was thinking attic space for storage, maybe HVAC and compressor wile leaving ceiling as open as possible for wrangling sheet goods on first floor or a potential car lift. There is nothing more annoying than trying to efficiently move or store 8’ tall panels in an 8’ tall ceiling area. And once you have a car lift you’ll use it. Who knows where your channel or interests may take you in the future? Of course if you make the second floor too spacious your better half commandeer it for their use.

[@CaptainBlueTech]

@@dmwi1549He did say the door was 8’ and the plan has some space above it it looks like so it seems to have some pretty high ceilings.

[@Rodbuilder109]

Very god ideas, especially for the attic space. It would be a good place to put the air compressor and dust collection system with a door to the outside for easy disposal.

[@curtisplunk6933]

good ideas capt. one additional note is if you plan to have hot water to the restroom and laundry sink you'll need to account for a water heater, possibly in the attic.

[@CaptainBlueTech]

@@curtisplunk6933 I would assume you wouldent have them because the cost benefit is so low but realistically thats not a huge deal to overcome, they make smaller tankless water heaters for RV's/ tiny homes where you dont have to worry about big water drains like showers and baths that can fit almost anywhere. if you wanted something more mainstream/home use ready from something like HD or Lowes they make tankless hot water heaters that can run showers no problem that can fit in a base cabinet so you could just put a cabinet under the bathroom sink and stick it there, saves on plumbing too. Or if that doesn't have enough wife approval then just stick it in the attic in the smaller part of the space you cant realistically use for storage anyway because the roof is too low.

[@alexpoplin8524]

Love the miniature build, such a great way to wrap your head around things that you wouldnt think of otherwise. 1.) Utility closet from option 2 would be a must for me. Sound proofing is a huge quality of life improvement most people don't consider. Especially if you need to film in that environment. Planning soundproofing prior to the build makes it an easier task than retrofitting after project completion. I would consider a staggered stud wall, rockwool, and some additional space for sound dampening material on the interior. Beyond that I would consider making the dimensions of that utility room a bit oversized as a future proofing measure in case you decide to get a larger dust collection/cyclone separator in the future. 2.) Having the CNC and table saw close to the garage door would be important to me. The first thing you do when bringing home sheet goods is break them down, rather than wrestle large sheets further into a shop and inbetween benches and fixtures, having your breakdown tools near the entrance creates a better workflow for me. Whether your breakdown is primarily done at the tablesaw or if you prefer to breakdown with a tracksaw station, breaking down large sheetgoods near the front is a blessing. 3.) The last recommendation i have is to put some serious thought into your lighting. Bent's woodworking channel has an amazing video about shop lighting. Your ability to see your workpieces is crucial. Trying to weld something or drill something with any kind of precision while operating in a shadow is less than ideal. Overall, I've enjoyed your content for a while, I greatly appreciate your commitment to thinking everything through, and I'm very much looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[@glittalogik]

1.) 100% agreement on noise reduction. As someone with already-poor hearing from a wonky-shaped inner ear, ADHD-related auditory processing issues, and (thankfully) mild tinnitus, I'm now hyper-aware of preserving whatever I have left - once it's gone you don't get it back. Personal hearing protection is all well and good but it's easy to get complacent, so reducing the need for it in the first place should be top priority. 2.) Workflow is SO important for getting stuff done - seconds and minutes saved every time you do a common task can add up to weeks and months gained back over a lifetime of making, not to mention the physical toll of dragging heavy goods around in one-man shop. 3.) Lighting consideration goes double for content creation. A bunch of otherwise great channels still use lower-frequency LED lighting and wind up with horrible flicker/strobing when it syncs up with their camera framerates, especially on slow-mo B-roll shots. Nipping that problem in the bud with a little bit of research and early investment is well worth it.

[@adamjossem2782]

For the shop sink area I highly recommend a stainless steel restaurant sink. You can get them in different widths and sizes. The stainless is easy to clean up and a great place to use or clean messy or dangerous liquids like stains or bleach. Etc. they are often as deep as a laundry or mop sink. Also the faucet heads can be a bit more useful from a standard sink faucet to a hanging overhead spray washer. Super functional and useful. Also depending on your area you might find a used restaurant supply store that has one for cheap and because they are stainless they just need a little cleaning.

[@LaughingInTiny]

This is a fantastic idea, and they come up used but almost new ALL the time, at least where I live. I think "owning a restaurant" is on a lot of semi-retirement bucket lists. They're REALLY hard to make a go of however and so I see them for almost free... or free, because there's a deadline to get them out the door... all the time on Craiglist etc. If you keep an eye out while building I'll bet one will come up.

[@rickm7898]

I was putting my shop dust collection system together this past summer and was considering the Harvey G-700 too. Then I watched the numerous youtube videos on cleaning the filters. What a pain in the butt! Please watch a couple of these videos before committing to the G-700. The other downsides of this system are that the system inlet is about a foot off of the floor and your ducting must rise from there. Also the dust bins fill quickly and therefore must be emptied more frequently. I instead chose a cyclone system which has numerous advantages. Mine has a true HEPA filter and empties into a 55 gal drum, my inlet is about seven feet up from the floor, which makes plumbing my ducting much easier. By having your ducting high off of the floor and adding drops strategically around your shop, the system doesn't interfere with wall storage or tool placement. One other note, the advantages of having your tablesaw in the center of the shop are worth the effort. In this case, I like your idea of a floor trough, even if only to run electrical and ducting from a drop along a side wall. Oh, and if I may, one last bit of advice. Placing machines and benches on mobile bases is a must for ultimate flexibility. Leaving an area of the shop that can be reconfigured dependant on your current needs is a nice luxury to have. You never know when you might take on a large assembly, perhaps a boat?

[@photorealm]

In my small shop, I put locking wheels on EVERYTHING :) So I can rearrange the workflow pretty quick. My shop is half that size and only a hobby. Moveable (somewhat) Chases on the ceiling for hoses and cables. A small dolly hoist for moving heavy stuff in and on and off tables. No matter what you do, you will outgrow it quicker than you think, it's just physics. Your shop is going to be awesome and you will spend a chunk of your life in there. Thinking it through so well beforehand is a MAJOR plus.

[@MandisWorkshop]

I love that you painted your model shop cabinets Shop Nation grey.

[@ShopNation]

Of course!

[@TomwithaDream]

Paint, stain and solvents storage. In a more commercial space these are dedicated flammable cabinets but may not need that in a more residential/hobby space. Either way you might benefit (visual or organization) from putting that into your compressor and dust utility room.

[@jhamby8773]

PLEASE do a video on how you 3d printed the stuff to scale. I have a printer and have been wondering if I can use it to re-design my garage workshop!

[@MWAWoodworks]

you should add a small closet/lean-to to the outside of the building and put the dust collector there and run the ducting through the wall into the shop. Then emptying the dust collector is easy because it's already outside and you don't have to plan for the footprint of the dust collector inside the shop

[@hamilde]

The large sink is a great idea. My wife suggested I put one in my shop since there was water and a drain right there. I was resistant because I didn't want to give up the space. I'm really glad I listened to her now.

[@Dragonited]

There should also be a separator for the drain there. Rinsing of paints and solvents are a bit difficult and should not acctually be done in a normal drain since it's bad for the environment.

[@ShopNation]

Great call out! @@Dragonited

[@DASBookbinding]

The slop/mop sink is really handy. I installed a hang on the wall one without legs. It has really solid braced brackets so strength not an issue. But not having those legs to kick and get in the way, especially of cleaning, is nice. A good spot for the wall mount first aide kit and a mirror to help dig a shard of metal out of your cheek.

[@funkybayatPK]

Doors are inefficient use of floor space and you have 2-man doors. Slide restroom forward such that the two man doors are essentially using same floor access space.

[@stevenmorris6447]

Put everything on wheels; tools, tables, benches...everything. With that in mind, make any expansion joints in the concrete floor with a concrete saw after curing for a few days. Saw cuts in concrete floors are easier to roll over than grooves made with cement tools. Plan for a staging area. You need a dedicated staging area to put components you are working on prior to final assembly.

[@thenextlayer]

This is so freaking overkill and I love it. Another great video Travis. Thanks for sharing!

[@hekios888s6]

Option 2 looks better imho...looking forward to following this journey

[@davidjwillems]

How can this be a great video?

[@TylerHust]

I had as much fun and learned as much reading the comments as I did watching the video. Tons of great feedback. Among my favorites that resonate with my experiences… welding curtain, drop down spray booth walls, utilize attic space, material storage as close to the door as possible, path for dust collection emptying (something like a Costco door to the outside, no one wants to carry a full bin across the entirety of the shop), don’t feel like you have to keep the entire oversized door opening clear, consider a router table and planer, and if you’re committed to the CNC, that’s the one reason I would build a wall and shrink the space.

[@ptb427]

Love the second layout idea. One thought would be to make the utility room a little narrower and a little deeper if needed. Such that it it lines up with your garage door opening. Then you/future owner can get four cars in there.

[@roryoconnell7759]

First, I absolutely love the idea of making a 3D model so you can really see the space. So much better than just a 2D version. Thoughts on design. Keep the utility closet. So much nicer, cleaner, and quieter. You'll also increase wall space as you can now use both sides of those walls to store mops, brooms, etc, on the inside walls. Next, swap the mill and the slop sink. It'll be easier and cheaper to plumb the sinks back to back. It allows material storage in the near term and opens up the useable space to either side of the mill versus being in the corner long term. The drill and mill are also good combos to have in line. Third, watch your clearance on the table saw vs. the CNC table bridge if you get one. Finally, don't forget the "attic" space above the shop. I don't know your plan for ceiling height, but the roof pitches look like you'll have substantial space up there. Remember to plan in attic access along with electricity/lights into that space. Can't wait to see this evolve and get built. Thanks for taking us along.

[@TheWoodRasp]

As a woodworker and metal fabricator; I’ve built 40 in ground pools. I would strongly recommend moving your restroom just inside your shop man door to reduce wet traffic and add mop sink and floor drain behind restroom back wall. Try this layout and see how this layout works. I love your attention to detail. Rasp

[@ShopNation]

I have a bathroom entrance from outside, just didn’t mention it!

[@chrisjansen3232]

So my thought while watching was what if you removed the interior bathroom door? I saw the exterior one in your model. Wall space is all ways a premium. I know It woukd be a few more steps to the bathroom but food for thought..

[@CountryFamily]

My wood shop is separated by a wall in my barn, while the fab shop is in the back corner of the parking area. The wood shop is 16x32 but ideally 2 additional feet in both dimensions would be great. The main area is 32x32 and doubles as parking and welding/fab shop. Gives plenty of room when the vehicles are pulled out. I keep my air compressor in a shed behind the barn and plumbed it in. This eliminates the noise problem.

[@austinferdinands]

Have you thought about hvac? Radiant floor heating in the slab. I know you said you’re not a fan of DC drops from the ceiling, but the presumably unused attic space could be your friend for routing big items out of the way as well (ie HW tanks/boiler)

[@nicholaskortenhaus]

I really like option 2. The three things I would change would be to swap the cnc with the bandsaw and jointer that way the cnc is closer to the dust collection since it will be producing the most, especially with engraving anything, also add the wash sink maybe into a cabinet that then has a similarly siezed storage rack for larger materials next too the drill press, and finally make sure you get chip curtains for the future milling machine. The chips build up fast. Wouldnt hurt to have a place to keep a large metal trash and a broom for later recycling based on metal type. Two final notes with the cabinets in the back, maybe shift those to the left and connect them to the large material storage and the wash sink on a diagonal like one of your pieces in the video show, then move the drill press over towards the dust collection closet. Additionally also keep the metal working near the door because if something from a wood and metal working shop will catch fire, it will probably be the wood dust. Keeping the metal working near the two exits (gargae, and external door, even the bathroom door since it connects to the outside), will allow you to safley get out without having to push through any fire. Goodluck with the shop im excited to see it grow!

[@chrisriney6056]

It looks like you are getting plenty of advice and ideas. When i built my home i knew the garage was going to be a shop so i had the floor poured flat and i really like that. Where i screwed up was not considering better crack relief. The concrete finishers put in the crack relief with toweling. This was a mistake as it created bumps and dips all over the floor which creates problems with all my mobile carts. In hind site i wish i had a concrete cutter come in and cut in the crack relief. No more bumps and dips. I really like the trenches for power and dust collection as long as you have access to them. Looking forward to the build. It will be an ADVENTURE.

[@ShopNation]

Cuts versus grooves is a great call out!

[@blazegbs]

I ended up filling in my grooves with silicone to stop junk clogging & minimize the bumps as I move tings around. Wish I cuts but it is what it is.

[@Chris-jg3cl]

As a concrete guy, I second the cut control joint recommendation. You might get some pushback and it may cost a few extra bucks but it’s worth it imho. The reason contractors like the grooved (called “tooled” joints) is that they don’t have to come back the next day to cut. Tooled joints are done when the concrete is wet. They also make some set in place crack inducers that are less common but pretty slick Also, speaking from experience, I don’t recommend burning in the floor (dark shiny finish). Yes it’s easier to clean up but if you are doing metal work with oils and cutting fluids it will get slick fast. Also, densifiers won’t absorb as well as on a slick finished floor if that’s the route you decide to go keep that in mind. Good luck and enjoying the show!

[@ogwoodworks]

I went through a similar planning exercise a couple of years ago and built a 2.5 car detached garage workshop (28' x 26' w/10' ceilings). One thing I noticed is that you've kind of boxed in your miter saw station at the back between the wall and the air comp/dust collector room. Looks like there isn't a lot of infeed/outfeed room on either side for cutting longer stock. For your electrical, I suggest surface mounting the panel and running EMT to all your outlets. If you bury the panel between the wall studs and run all the branch circuits inside the walls, you limit your options for adding or moving circuits later on. For each wall-mounted outlet, use a 2 gang square box with a pair of 20A receptacles on separate circuits. I also mounted a couple of 20A cord reels to the ceiling for powering things in the middle of the shop when needed. Also pay close attention to the lighting requirements. Natural light is much better than artificial so supplement LED ceiling fixtures with Solatubes or skylights rather than windows on the exterior walls. As you said, wall space is a precious resource so don't use it up with windows. For your 16' x 8' overhead door, make sure the top panel has glass inserts. Brings in lots of light without compromising security. Also run a couple of Cat6A network cables from your house into the shop. Install a small networking patch panel and a switch in the shop to support a WiFi access point and some data outlets for computers, TVs, etc. WiFi is ok, but hardwired network connections will always be faster and more reliable. You'll also need network connections for exterior security cameras - hardwired POE cameras are MUCH better than WiFi cameras. Don't cheap out on the man-door. Spend the extra money to get a high quality steel door with a multi-point locking system. So many details to consider, but I really like your process. Looking forward to the build series!

[@Logono27]

I agree with the external bathroom door comment, that is a wise option so people don't need to enter the shop to use the bathroom. In addition. if your matching the pitch of your home roof. then you'd have quite a bit of attic space. maybe consider a bonus room built into the trusses with a small staircase where you can have the compressor or noisy equipment upstairs, and underneath the staircase you could fit all the pool plumbing needs. Just a thought. :)

[@enzoevola1410]

As someone who has a milling machine caty cornered I would recommend against it because anything and everything that can go back there will from tools to your work pieces themselves. Over it’s just been a pain for me so I would recommend putting it against a flat wall.

[@python3574]

Couple of things: I have a dedicated shop similar to this, and I would not put a sink anywhere out in the shop. Make the bathroom sink a multi-purpose sink that will cover all your needs, whether it's shop needs, pool bathroom needs, whatever. (will also reduce plumbing). Second, you haven't said what kind of metal work you will be doing, but more than likely it will involve "sticks" of tube, angles, etc... at some point, so....plan for a metal cutting chop/mitre saw. It will have to be along the longest wall IMO. Metal sticks can be 20 ft long, uncut, or 10 ft, 8 ft, 6 ft, etc. For planning and future purchasing purposes, I recommend the Evolution S355 MCS mitre cutting chop saw (14"). You WILL kick yourself if you don't get it. Next, metal saws kick out a LOT of chips, so you want them where they aren't being thrown into your woodworking area. So the metal chop saw should be close to the garage door, shooting chips/dust into that corner of the garage. Same for grinding....you will likely do it at the welding table, so make sure you set it up so the grinding dust (generally) shoots towards the garage door. Also, plan for a metal belt sander...they take up a decent amount of space. I think your mill is probably a little bigger than you will need, maybe scale it around a Precision Matthews size mill and possibly put it where the mop sink is currently shown. I would maybe look at a slick way of combining the wood chop saw station and metal cutting chop saw into the same linear surface along that long wall as a baseline, then configure the rest of your stuff from there. That way, long sticks of metal and wood can share an overlapping area, and there can be area underneath for cabinets or storage of smaller tools that can roll out to be used, or metal storage space, etc. Also, consider a ceiling mounted fume extractor over your welding table.

[@MattWeber]

Agreed, a sink in the shop is just asking for plumbing clogs and quickly can become catch all basin if too easy to access. Putting a utility sink in the bathroom means as a shared space, you're also more likely to keep it clean and clutter free. I also agree that he lacks a good workflow for storage of both wood and metal. Option 2 is better but still lacks those factors. Nothing worse than tripping over lengths of angle iron that could have been on a low wall rack that was build behind some mobile lower cabinets.

[@michaelmoss6584]

An enclosed area on the outside of the shop for, air compressor & existing dust collector. I would also wall off part of back space maybe, 10 ft deep, and put the metal working shop back there. The wall will really help with keeping both area's cleaner. The workshop to the front gives you the wider footprint for the best layout possible.

[@fcschoenthal]

I like #2 the best, but think you're going to have issues on the right side with infeed/outfeed clearances. You also don't have anything shown for wood/sheet storage. I'm guessing that your miter saw is going in the back wall. Usually best to have breakdown area as close to bringing the material in and storing it as possible. The CNC just seems to get in the way close to the door and hauling materials through that corridor. Good luck and can't wait to see more. - Chris

[@alnmike]

Only thing I could suggest (my vote is number 2, with the utility cabinet) is a place for a lathe. Probably a large benchtop? I have neither but have always been told to get a lathe first. And a good lathe with a cheap mill is better than the opposite. I do have a question about that cutout outside by the bathroom. Would that be a better place for the utility closet and compressor/vac? I also like the central channel idea. Just put everything on wheels and when you need something, roll it to the middle of the shop, give it air/power/dust collection. What is the ceiling situation? Is the roof tall enough for storage racks/lumber up above? How about a lift system or winch/hoist to get stuff up there? Because of the slope may be able to make an outside door/ramp up to it, maybe place dust colleciton/air comp up there. May be able to make a 4-6 ft wide room to put the CNC router in or some 3d printers. I am a fan of separating out the wood and metal sides. Can easily have a curtain or movable divider (tool storage?) that you can move in place whenever doing something especially dirty to protect the rest of your shop (somewhat) Also, ready-made paint booth.. Goodluck!

[@louisfbrooks]

You may want to consider workflow and moving large materials around in your shop as part of the design process. (Think 4x8 sheet goods or long 2x4s) Especially coming into the shop and moving from one station to another.

[@ezdupree]

I agree with this. I would put that miter station on the right hand wall to make it easier to break down long pieces into manageable pieces right as they enter the shop.

[@petenelson8136]

Have you considered using your attic space for dust collection? Check out the Record Power (made in the UK) CamVac 90L 3000w Dust Extractor CGV386-6. Mary that with an Oneida Air Systems Super Dust Deputy 4/5 Cyclone attached to a 55 gallon drum (the only piece that would be on the shop floor) and you've gained a bunch of space, put the noise maker (only 68 db) in the attic. This would give you more options on laying out our floor space and give you a kick ass dust collection system. You can also put your compressor upstairs (again noise reduction) and run the air hoses down to the shop. Both of these tools could be set up with wireless remote switches so you'd hardly ever need to get access to them. As far as dust collection goes, you'll find the canister on the CamVac doesn't need to be changed very often at all "if" your using the Dust Deputy 4/5 Cyclone. You as for getting the equipment into the attic, consider a cable lift system (your building this shop so ...), they are pretty inexpensive to install, and would also allow you to put other things upstairs if you want/need space to put things out of the way. You can check out Stockroomsupply's videos, on the CamVac vs conventional dust collectors if you find this interesting. That's where I first learn about this system. Also Hooded on Wood has some very good video's on the CamVac and the Wisper Box he built that got the noise level down to 61 db.

[@williamwilmes]

Amazing idea to make a scale version to see what you want. Also something i didnt see were windows and AC unit locations. That will affect your layout. I dont have major tools, but i would suggest that you put everything you can on wheels. That way you always have an easier time to move things around for whatever reason it is needed.

[@jronmanbuilds]

HVAC/R could have parts in the attic

[@sokofabco]

Looking at something similar at my house and there's three things I am adding: 50 amp 220 for welding/rotartphase converter, floor drain, and a separate enclosed room for grinding/sanding etc Also putting the air compressor and dust collection in an exterior room And putting EVERYTHING on casters. Everything.

[@spacekb17]

Focus on the things that will be expensive to change. If it’s going to be “permanent” make sure you know where it goes. If you can move it easily or add it in later, think of a few options and start with the “best”

[@sporktar]

I like having all the dust collection machines on one wall, but You may consider putting your CNC on casters so you can move it out of the way if you need to rip down 8 foot plywood on the table saw. Really, I'd try to put casters on everything you can, no matter what layout you pick, you'll need to re-organize the shop as it develops to suit your needs. Also may consider a horizontal bandsaw for metal cutting. It's my favorite metalworking tool in my shop, doesn't throw sparks out like a chop saw, and it's much quieter.

[@ShopNation]

Casters are king!

[@bskelly]

Now you’ve got me questioning my shop layout! Looking forward to seeing how your layout comes out

[@emarr3720]

I’d forget about sharing a bathroom with a metal shop, especially a pool area!! Despite your best efforts you are going to track in metal slivers & they are going to have a party with bare feet. I’d make a small separate wet room for your shop needs, whether your necessities or cleaning up parts & equipment. I put in a Turkish toilet to give the bathroom novelty & a utilitarian motif & I like it. It very practical & easy to clean. Enjoying your newly discovered channel. You have natural aptitude for all things mechanical-not just proficiency & training-in the way a gifted mathematician can see the “matrix” or some kid can pick up a guitar & they already know what to do with it. I’d put the dust collection & the compressor outside. I did bc of the noise but I’m in California where we don’t have weather.

[@johnbernard6683]

Couple of suggestions - wall space is definitely a premium; extend your cabinets up as high as you are able. You’ll need it (particularly for stuff you use, but maybe not as frequently). Also, consider making all counter surfaces the same height (in this case as your table saw). I built my workbench to my height, but I can’t tell you how many times that long board I’m ripping doesn’t clear my bench by 1 friggin’ inch - I’m not bitter though 😂). I ended up with a 2D layout - couple reasons; I started with cutouts Oneida provided for the dust collection; and 3d printing didn’t exist then (though wouldn’t have been more fun!). Good luck with the build - looking forward to seeing it happen.

[@woodworkservice-com]

Raise your saw by an inch...

[@WouldWorkforWoodWork]

A few suggestions for you: 1. Layout #2 your CNC looks like it's in the way of the table saw. Looks way too close to be able to comfortably feed something large in - especially if the CNC is in use. 2. Add outlets on the ceiling. I just finished my shop (24 x 24) and I put a 20 amp and 240 on the ceiling in the middle, and 20 amp near the corners. 3. Dust collector and compressor in the same closet could be asking for trouble. The dust collector you have may not have the capacity for the tools you will have. A jointer spits out a lot of chips. 4. Upgrade your wiring now! I ran 10/2 wire for all my 240 outlets (30 amp capable) - of which there are many in my shop (7 separate 240 circuits). I don't need the capacity of it now, but who knows down the road. Also, all of my 120's are 20 amp. And I have many circuits. I have 3 separate circuits going to each wall for the 120, and multiple 240's. Dedicated 240 for dust, separate one for compressor, shared for table saw/jointer, mini split, etc. I have a 100 amp subpanel from the house, and I have 5 spots not being used in the panel. 5. Also, think about communications. I know everything is wireless now, but sometimes with all the equipment, service can be diminished. Run a hard line from the house out (maybe a couple) - separate conduit, of course. Layout #2 has better flow I think. Just my 2 cents... feel free to give me back some change :)

[@B-K-Haley]

Love the model, great visual. 2 thoughts, 1) I didn't see a stand alone planer, not sure if that is something you need to or want to consider. 2) Do Not skip the slop sink. Put a bit of a cabinet around it for things like sharpening. Doesn't have to be big but don't skip it.

[@kellizielinski9633]

He is not a dedicated woodworker so a joiner/planer combo machine would still work and take up the same foot print. Agree on the slop sink though he could just put in the bathroom.

[@seankurek1705]

It’s ok if they mix. And I prefer it. Just keep it clean. My shop is mixed. You get more done when it’s open. Plus better for heating and cooling.

[@tbc7801]

There is nothing like the intuitive ease of a scale model, I use them myself all the time. 3 comments: 1) I recommend drawing/modelling in the door swings for any hinged doors - this can impact movement in surprising ways and may even influence final layout when you realize the door may hit cabinetry or other items nearby. 2) Having dust collection and air compressor in a separate closet/room can help with noise, BUT they both need to breathe a lot of air themselves and may require a louvered door or more intake/exhaust considerations--possibly to building exterior. 3) As much as possible, I recommend large tools and benches be on wheels. Some are not conducive to this due to vibration, fixed outlets/dust collection, or other concerns but I have yet to meet a shop worker who regretted having most tools on wheels. Best of luck!

[@samuelwiltzius]

I have a shop very similar in size to what you are planning. Half the shop is woodworking tools, a 10x10' room in the back corner is the machine room (Monarch engine lathe and Bridgeport series 1 mill), and the rest is where a Honda Pilot lives in winter - because I love my wife. Even without the car I like having an open area for project assembly, glue up, welding, small engine maintenance, etc. It is also nice to have the metal separate from the wood. In floor heat, a utility sink, powerful dust collection, and high quality lighting are what make my shop comfortable in winter - when I spend most of my time in it. I have a clearvue cyclone and it saves me floorspace and I can't imagine anything better for my needs. I do want to upgrade to a 'quiet' air compressor and having plumbed air may be a future upgrade.

[@v3c7r0n]

That will be a really nice shop when it's done! My suggestions and considerations: - Don't forget the networking! If you ever get a CNC machine, you're probably going to want network for it, and you may want to add additional access points, security cameras, etc. in the future - Shop audio? I know you usually use headphones, but you may also want to be able to play music outside at the pool, and it's not much more work to add a second zone for the shop interior - Put an outlet for and/or the welder near the garage door so you can weld outside if you want or need to - Slop sinks are awesome, however, you're going to want it separated from the main shop space so it doesn't get caked up with dust (wood and/or metal) - If you can, you may want to physically separate the wood working & metalworking - saw dust on machine tools is not great but it's less of an issue than metal dust on the woodworking machines, tools & surfaces (metal dust is abrasive and much finer) - I would wall in the dust collection and the compressor and incorporate the slop sink into that space, along with material storage as well (again, protects wood from metal dust). Perhaps a closet along the wall where the bathroom is to the back wall. I would try to keep the slop sink close to the door as well (so if you've got a "situation" you wouldn't have to go far to get to it) - Definitely add an exterior door to the bathroom. In layout two, personally, I would NOT want to be walking around a metal shop after being in a pool. I know you keep the place clean, but even so, metal dust has a particular way of sticking to everything - You don't talk about it in the video, but make sure you add some exterior 110V outlets, and at least one or two exterior hose spigots (one by the shop door), maybe an exterior air line or at least a port near an exterior door, ideally the garage door (uses include pneumatic tools like a die grinder, putting air in tires, inflating pool accessories, etc.) - Not discussed in the video, but consider adding some floor drains in the shop floor for easier floor washing / cleanups if needed - Machine tools (mills, lathes, etc.) take up more space than just it's foot print, they also have the additional storage space needs for collets, chucks, tooling, vices, etc. - if you get a benchtop unit with a stand that has storage underneath, you can negate a lot of this - Make sure you can easily carry or cart a full 4x8 sheet of material (including heavy sheets like 3/4 MDF) from the garage door to wherever your material storage will be without bumping into anything (in other words, you're probably going to want that to be a straight shot from an exterior door, or close to it) - If you're going to get into metal working, you are probably going to need a fair amount of additional hardware storage depending on what you're doing (nuts, bolts, washers, etc. - consider the various thread sizes you might use, now remember you have hex head bolts, socket head bolts, different grades of bolts with different tensile strengths AND all of those come in different materials / finishes from yellow zinc to stainless steel or black oxide - and remember NEVER weld zinc or galvanized anything!) - Consider a fume extractor for the welding area, along with fire extinguisher placements - Also consider incorporating a way to rig up a poor man's spray booth (drop cloths) so you can spray finishes without having to worry about said finish getting all over everything

[@winkywrocks]

We moved my small business's shop back in 2020 and 3d modeling was so helpful. I used an app and was able to input all of the measurements of the space and our fixtures and it made the move so much easier. I was able to play around with the layout and have a map of where every single fixture went when the movers came. This is really cool to see it in real life instead of just on my iPad.

[@wittworks]

So....we're building doll houses now? BarbieShopGreatness! Will the new shop exterior have a gatorade tank outside to match?

[@davids8493]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@thomasd9827]

So when it goes full size - Barbenheimer.

[@angazi1341]

Yes it’s called a swimming pool

[@ChadsCustomCreations]

Coming from the guy who pioneered that KZbin title 😂

[@wittworks]

@@ChadsCustomCreationsyou know it!

[@stuartkorte1642]

One of my first prints was of my tall Lista cabinet. For current shop build, I’d love to have had a model like yours. 1. Move patio door next to bathroom so you have direct access from pool. Optional move bathroom to front corner. 2. Layout B is much better. 2A. Consider stacking air compressor above dust collector or below. 3. Put miter station on right wall and CNC in back left corner. This might be better parking a mower, trailer or vehicle that needs work. 4. As much equipment on casters as possible 5. For welding consider a flip down welding bench. Looking at roof pitch, can there be decent storage in attic? If so, maybe plan for one of those attic lifts. Lofts are great storage.

[@carlsolberg7348]

Hi there, v.2 is the best layout you made, but I noticed that you left the material storage idea behind. Material storage is a very important subject and it can not be ignored. My dad did not think of this, and now there are materials all over the floor which makes it really hard to walk around in there. So I'm pitching you an idea for storage. I noticed that in your 3d model of the shop you had a slanted roof, this means you can make a makeshift second floor. It does not have to be a floor to walk on, it's only for storing materials. I hope this helps ;)

[@SergiuszRybak]

My garage is setup with a couple of CNC mills with full enclosures, vertical bandsaw, horizontal bandsaw, tooling storage and material storage (should give you an idea of my shop space needs). The mills have a slight bigger footprint then a bridgeport knee mill but without the mess factor, its a much bigger investment but it is so much nicer having the mess contained. If you do go the knee mill direction you can probably get away with that doubling up as your drill press. I have 2 air compressors, an 80 gallon and a 5 gallon ultra quite. I haven't turned on my 80 gallon in 2 years, most tools are battery now and the 5 gallon is plenty to run two cnc mills and use the blow gun for 20 seconds and blow off your work surface. Its also probably cheaper to run but most important its much quitter!! I have always had access to the upper wall plates in the attic allowing me to drop additional power if I needed to. I have 4 220 outlets in my garage all rated at 40 amps. If I decide to sell a mill and get a welder, I potential already have a spot for it or the ability to relocate it with some ease. I really like having windows on the side door and on the upper garage door panel for natural light and like you mentioned the 8' tall door is fantastic. Also consider putting one of those compact wall mounted garage door openers, you will have one less thing hanging in the middle of shop.

[@jareeq]

Whenever there is background cost of it or not - i like Shop Nation presentation because it is clean and orderly. So thumbs up.

[@van111111111]

How exciting! Good for you. That little utility room for the air compressor and dust collector is worth every penny and square inch if you sound proof it. You have my vote.

[@Vetbuilt]

For your compressed air, I would consider putting it in the attic. Have a winch that is mounted to the roof beams, so you can easily hoist it up and lower if need be. A ATV winch will do the job just make sure everything is supported properly. Have you drain line plumbed into the shop this way you can drain it easily, or go to McMaster Carr and order a timed drain for it. Secondly, I would try to have your primary processes near the front half of the shop. So if you do more wood working then steel have it near the door where you will have fresh air, and then divide the shop from the corner of the bathroom across with a welding curtain from floor to ceiling, this will help with keeping some of the shop clean when not in use, as well if you get a ceiling mounted fumes extractor, you can get away with a smaller one for the smaller welding space and it will be more efficient. I hope that helps. Cheers Chris

[@wallywest2360]

Before you even started putting things in the space I said to myself that I would put the metal working part of the shop by the garage door. I work in a shop that does a lot of welding and sucking in those fumes isn't great. Ventilation is a must. I would put a large fan in the opposite wall as intake, to create positive pressure in the shop. That way you can open the garage door and any weld smoke you create is pushed right out the door. Dust collection will be critical as well. We have had fires start because we have wood working in our shop as well. Sawdust hanging in the air plus welding equals flash fire. Our shop is bigger than your whole property and the welding is on the opposite side from the wood shop and it still has caused issues. Sawdust fires are crazy fast, you really don't want that. Looking forward to this build, one day I hope to have something like that.

[@SomeGuy.]

My suggestion is to keep everything as modular as possible. The best way to figure out where everything goes is to actually work in the space. You will end up moving things around. Do things that will make your life easier when you decide to move things around or add new tools. Add more space in the electrical panel to add more circuits later on and make sure it’s easy to run wire to the panel after the shop is built. The panel maybe a 200amp service but that is 200amps at one time. It is VERY unlikely you will have enough stuff on at one time to trip the 200amp main breaker. I suggest plywood for the finished surface on the inside walls. It makes hanging stuff much easier as there is solid wood everywhere. If screwed on then you can easily remove the wood to get in and run new electrical, or air lines, or water lines, or whatever. I think the layout of your second design is better. I like the little closet for the loud air compressor and dust collector. When building it I would do a 2x6 wall but framed with 2x4 8 inches on center. ( kzbin.info--wPVouZuu0?si=pPuaHYS-MEx03jqi ) this video explains how to offset them to reduce noise transfer.

[@IAMSatisfied]

I'd consider putting the slop-sink to the left of the bathroom door (depending on how much demand it has), and if possible, put the dust collector & compressor in a small utility closet *outside* in the corner behind the bathroom... if you're concerned about the condensation in the compressor tank drain freezing, you could install an automatic drain in the compressor and have a short piece of heat tape or a incandescent bulb on a Thermocube underneath the compressor drain line. I built a utility closer outside my shop just for my compressor & installed an auto-drain & I love it.

[@williamludwick77]

@ 13:55 I believe others have mentioned it too, but you have plenty of "attic" space based on thr drawings... Run all your dust collection piping/hoses thru that and then either store it up there too or build and small exterior "shed" attached to the building. Also use that hollow beam in thr floor as a way yo get electrical (ir really anything small enough to fit) into yhe center of the building. And definitely run electric for center floor receptacles. Whether for large devices or ad-hoc ones. Definitely will give you way more options and semi- future proof it.

[@therealweenis]

Multiple 220 circuits would be good. Dust collection, welder, table saw are 3 definite. I'd add in a 4th just to be safe.

[@andrewward4246]

I would make the washroom a smidge bigger or make the vanity and sink smaller to add a shower. Since this space doubles as a pool house, might be nice to have a warm shower that you dont have to worry about winterizing if it were outside. Unless you had an outdoor shower outside of the washroom, this would keep the pipes warm and give you an outdoor shower. Maybe even consider a bathroom door to the outside so folks wont have to come through your shop if you are working while kids are playing in the pool with their friends. Pools become popular in the neighbourhood!!! For Utilities you could consider a bump out on the back, accessible from outside as well, so you wont see it or hear it or lose wall space to access it. Good luck with the project. looks awesome.

[@ShopNation]

Yes there is an external door from the bathroom, but I’m not sure we’d use a shower

[@5ElementsWoodworking]

For dust collection and air compressor, make a small concrete pad outside up against the building and put 'em in a shed. It'll help with noise and if you place the collector strategically, you can skip bagging dust and just vent it directly outside.. Raised floor would be sweet for ultimately flexibility, they make systems that are plenty strong, we have them in computer datacenters with multi-thousand lb racks. You can run all the power/dust collection under the floor and put inlets/outlets where ever you need them. The other suggestion, tuck the air compressor/collector up off the floor in the "ceiling" and get back some floor space. Is the pitched roof open on the inside? Or are you doing trusses and that space won't be usable? You also didn't mention HVAC, but I'm assuming mini-split? Don't forget to leave space above/around the mini-split unit for filter boxes or it'll kill the head unit in less than 2 years.

[@mikenorfleet2235]

I do both woodworking and metal working in my garage shop and just completed my renovation of the garage over the past year. Major considerations were where to run new circuits and utilities and epoxy flooring (best done before you move all your stuff in). If you are going "all in" on metal working that can mean a lot of different things. I personally didn't want to spend money purchasing a Mill and Lathe for metal working so I support my local maker space with a membership there since I only need those machines periodically. I do however like to stick various stock metals together with a welder. I just clean up after myself and use the same general workspaces I use woodworking. Plan functional spaces with slight overlaps. Models are great for visualization, you are on the right track.

[@fredpenneriscool]

I'm excited to see what you do. My two cents, I would tuck the metal working into that back corner. When you walk through the door you get to walk into the clean bright woodshop. Grinding and welding leave black residue, drilling leaves sharp flakes that come with you everywhere. You could separate the sections with welding curtains. I'm the woodshop I would have the wood storage right beside the garage door (off the truck and into storage) tablesaw should work against the wall but bring it closer to the door. Cnc should be located very close to the storage. Just helps flow. Wood moves into the shop then to the tool for breakdown. As you get deeper into the shop the wood gets smaller. The way you have it planned you have to walk all your big material just about to the back wall. It's your shop so whatever makes the most sense to you is what you should do.

[@WestCoastADV]

build a mini outdoor shed for your aircompressor and dust collector, puts the mess and noise outside, doesnt need to be crazy just 2 walls and a slanted roof and then a door that spans the entire width so its easy to service especially for changing out the dust collection etc :) larger aircompressors also need to be drained from time to time a messy job that would be really easy to do if not in your shop of greatness haha :)

[@servant74]

Make sure you can hang things from the ceiling. ... Yes, a 'wet area' with floor drain and deep shop sink (emergency shower?) would be great. An area dedicated to CNC would be nice, even an 4x8 sheet version would be MY dream. For Metal,, make it so you could pull a 'curtain' around to keep the 'messy' away from the wood working, an exhaust fan would be nice for that area, but any fume or dust extraction that goes outside needs 'makeup air' to keep from depressurizing your shop. For normal woodworking an ERV and general 'air cleaner' would be wonderful. Jay Bates did a great 'woodshop' filter for a mini-split head, that could be an efficient way to heat/cool the shop. Even if it has a garage door for bulk material / project exit, make sure it is well insulated and sealed. And there is never enough plugs, bot 110 and 220, and possibly an area for some solar equipment either now or in the future. If you can afford a Span smart panel for your electrical (both for the house and shop) would be awesome. For a metal area a CNC plasma table could be wonderful. Yes, all these are MY dream for My shop, but you might use some of it too!

[@BoldlyFreeAmerican]

I'd actually move dust collection to a lifetime-like or lean-to shed/cabinet/closet on outside of the building. It will make dust collection easier and you could make it big enough to house everything for the pool pumps and so forth, makes it substantially easier to service, pull dust bags out and maintenance away from tools, projects, etc which to me is really nice and I've found I have to dust a LOT less and keeps things that much more clean. You can also vent and put compressor in that room which will help with noise, swapping or servicing when needed, etc.

[@gorttman798]

If you are thinking more machinery. Change a couple of your trusses to i-beam and build a trolly crane into the ceiling. I have one in my small shed out back. Very handy. For example. Putting a bandsaw onto a mobile base.

[@Grantski2007]

For a guy who loves shop greatness I’d look into Rousseau cabinets out of Canada the ability to tinker and fit all spaces and pursuits of greatness with an endless array of options

[@ShopNation]

I’ll check it out!

[@JRBye]

I built a shop and do both metal and wood working. I put the metal working tools in the opposite corner from the wood working tools that make the most dust. They are a little further apart than they would be in your shop but it will work. You can hang a fire blanket from the ceiling on a track like a shower curtain if you are worried about it. I try to grind metal outside when possible just because I don’t like making all that metal dust in the shop. I am adding a bathroom soon and am going to put a large sink that will be used for both washing hands and washing out paint brushes and stuff. I have moved things around a bit but I am pretty happy with the shop right now. You will get there also. My advice is run more outlets than you think you need. I have outlets everywhere and I have never been sad about that.

[@dusckemp]

IMO Option 2 is the better. However, I would say add wall from bathroom corner to opposite wall recessed enough to accommodate miter station and cabinets to provide a flush look. The back area could be the metal shop, and front could be for wood shop. Move compressor and dust collection outside into a external closet to reduce background noise. Wall not only separates the different shop functions but adds wall space for cabinets or locations for equipment on both sides of wall. Again this is my opinion only in something that I see I would do. Keep up the great work. Awesome channel

[@jacklynn8565]

More Shop Greatness, those 3D models are next level, excellent! I also love the mini versions of the metal working tools, classic. I like your version two keeping the wood working dust generating tools as far away from the metal tools as possible. Cross contamination from either is not a good thing. As for the dust collection keeping the run as short as possbile is always benifical to better CFM's. If you are considering the Harvey G700 it runs at 61 - 72 dB, about the level of a normal office environment. With its low profile a shelf can be built above it to hold your "horizontal" air compressor. This will give you more floor space. A final thought, you are the king of breaking down 4' x 8' sheets for projects, keep lots of space near the garage door to allow this to happen. Keep up the "Shop Greatness".

[@allent555]

Wow, this is a nice-looking shop! Here are some considerations: 1: Garage door placement, consider cabinets depth plus vehicle door swing. ( I know you're not planning using for vehicles) 2: Where are you doing finishing work? Consider a devoted space for finishing (painting/staining) work / free of dust with the right ventilation. I have the Harvey G700, and it is great!!! 3: Electrical: You can have multiple outlets on 220, just as 120, you can place 220 outlets around walls so you have future options for tool placement. 4: Whatever layout plan you have today, at some point, will change, so consider that. 5: Material storage should be a consideration 6: Consider an air scrubber filter for dusting. 7: assuming your A/C heating, also consider humidity control. Oops, I started to get carried away. lol

[@rob10856]

Oh, and don’t forget to have a couple air scrubbers to clean the air of any dust. You don’t have to buy those expensive units from Jet or even Wen. Buy a fan from harbor freight. Build a box with high quality furnace air filters one 3 sides (bottom, left & right). Bolt to the ceiling through the top of the box. Works as well as the ones from Jet/Wen, better airflow/air exchange and much cheaper!

[@user-rw7xd7qy3j]

I like putting my metal and welding station closest to the garage doors or man door because then I could always shift outside to work and not have to worry about creating a fire inside with sawdust and other flammable material.

[@ruffneckranch]

I’d definitely add a couple drains in the shop as well. Not so much for what your use of it will be but for resale since you mentioned it. Always nice to have a drain in a garage for spring cleaning, power washing, washing vehicles in the winter, etc.

[@CompassCustomCreations]

Gotta have a utility sink! Consider putting your air compressor outside in a lean-to. Get the noise away from the work space.

[@ghost_20_lead9]

Sorry Travis if this was commented on elsewhere, I scrolled through the comments but too many to not have possibly missed it: a thought to consider - finishing. An area dedicated in a shop to do finishing if usually way down the list, but if you're doing wood and metal work, you're going to be into paint and finishes of some sort for both. Setting up a little tent booth can be time consuming and a pain (efficiency), but a. having an idea/method and a space in mind for it along with the rest of layout is a useful consideration, or b. even better, a dedicated corner/space (of max size/dimension piece you envision doing finishing on), with proper flooring, your wall/ceiling drops always in place, and VENTING, etc could be invaluable. Think painting, staining, metal treating, etc when it's crap weather outside...? food for thought. Thanks for the interesting content, and good luck with this shop build, inside and out!

[@srmofoable]

side step city requirements and get some additional space by putting an over hang on the hidden side, close it in later. Put your compressor and dust collection out there. Note, the dust collector will have to push the air back into the shop or you will never keep it conditioned. You could even put a pad in at the same time. Tell them its for a quiet patio.

[@weichertkevin]

Since you building into the hillside, and for energy efficience, I would recommend building with ICF (Insulated Concrete Forms). I did my 1800 sq ft. shop 3x sides ICF and 1x side traditional stick frame with spray form. Also, totally recommend Radiant In-Floor Heat. I can heat my shop very efficiently and AC is done with 1x small mini-split.

[@kamilabiaozynska554]

A separate room for dust collection, compressed air and maybe a vacuum pump in future, with access from inside and outside is something I'd incorporate again in my next shop. So much comfort and silence 😊 Good luck with the project!

[@MrMegabart]

Few notes! 1: i would leave metal and wood seperate, mostly because of a fire risk (have you SEEN a dust explosion?) 2: give your table saw a foot or two more clearance from the wall if possible. If you want to have weird cuts right down the middle of a full sheet it comes in handy (or have the possibility of moving your saw easily) 3: put the stuff you use most in the easiest to reach positions 4: maybe an obvious one: give the skill you (want to) use most the most growing room. You mention you don't have some stuff allready, give it space! And more space then you think you'll need 5: definitely go for seperated dust collection and air compressors. It makes all the difference Last one, buy cheap = buy twice! Buy something bigger or with more features then you need and eventually you will need it Inheritance machining has a few videos which feature shop optimisation, they are a great watch! (As are all his videos)

[@paininthenic]

This is amazing! A floor drain or two for deeper cleans in the shop along with some of those under cabinet kickboard vacuum inlets like folks have in their kitchen but connected to the dust collector. I am now wanting my own doll house shop for planning. LOL!

[@ryanmcneal5084]

-Smart Dust Collection electronically controlled at each machine. Press button at machine to close all other valves, open in use valve and turn on vacuum. -Keep welding and wood separate as best as possible or at least have option to add soft wall or temp wall later down the road. Reference John Malecki videos on new shop set up. -Have material storage and high use equip at doors, ie plywood near over head door and if dust collection is done frequently then near door for easy removal and minimal machines to move. -Back wall of bathroom frame as two independent 2x4 walls and not a single 2x6 wall, create a void / slot for plywood imbedded in the wall. Think vertical mail slot. -More electrical and air drops the better. -Ethernet drops as well for router / CNC hook ups, 4 in shop this size is sufficient. Also makes shop wifi better for dedicated router. -Inside or outside dedicated shop sink for paint or heavy duty clean up always needed. -Attic ladder for storage?? -Ceiling drop tabletop for large and longterm glue-ups. -Obvious speakers for music.

[@TK-Worx]

The way I like to think about shop layout is to imagine a project and go through all the steps necessary to complete it. Then ask the questions: What areas do I need the most. What tools do I need most. That way yo can eliminate a lot of walking between stations that are too far apart. I found, that the drillpress is a tool i don't need that often, so I can put it in a different corner of the shop to avoid running into, or blocking my range of motion. The (hand)tools I need the most should be within reach at the areas I use the most. Having a tiny toolwall with measuring and marking tools at your cutting areas helps to prevent going back and forth a lot ;)

[@forestandtwig6824]

Looks good to me, would recommend putting the jointer inline with the table saw. Ie - go straight from the jointer to the table saw without having to walk around to the infeed of the table saw. Cuts down walking time and makes repeat cuts quicker.

[@Kyle_R_Wolfe]

i know you said you probably wont be using a bunch of compressed air but if you are going to be running an air compressor often especially a big one i would recommend isolating it and treating it for noise. it will do wonders you wouldnt have expected, not having to hear that compressor running all the time or at least bring the noise levels down will make the whole shop experience while your working up to a 10. i promise

[@Kyle_R_Wolfe]

Also Adam Savage from mythbusters just recently posted a video on building or setting up a shop like what youre doing now. He goes over a lot of things you are talking about and from experience since he has already been through all of this before i say its worth a watch.

[@joshuawilson7201]

On your floor, put in a grated system so you can run power, hoses, dust collection etc. Even help with drainage (in case of water or cleaning is needed). That way you can access those items. We use the same technology in plants and power houses.

[@bpindel]

A lot of other makers I have seen dedicate a room to the CNC specifically because of how much dust collection it needs. I think CNC in the back right where the utility is in a small enclosed room, utilities next to it and the remaining space back there for metal working. The the right side where the CNC is in the second option, put your table saw cabinets and then adjust machinery from there

[@theoldfart6404]

Hi Travis, that's a real dream shop you're planning out and figuring it out in miniature beforehand is key. I have a small 11 x 22 shop and had to come up with some unique ways to shoehorn all the tools in. The following points may be worth considering: 1) Lumber and panels are big and awkward. Having the wood shop closest to your big entrance is more practical (no shlepping heavy + awkward pieces through the shop = room to swing a cat). 2) You don't seem to have plans for a thickness planer? Consider the Oliver benchtop model. 3) As you're not a professional woodworker, perhaps a benchtop planer and jointer would suit. 4) In my shop, to fit the planer and jointer in, I built a set of cabinets along the long wall. The jointer, planer and a sanding station are all on flip tops (the doors lock the cabs + tools - see Ring's Workshop vid). This allows me to position the jointer and planer in the middle of the run. Raise the tool you rant to use and lower the others. This way I have over 8 feet of clearance each way. 5) I think having a separate dust collection solution for the CNC is a great idea. 6) You might want to run a mega curtain rod system across the shop. You could use plastic sheeting (somewhat like shower curtains) to help keep wood dust out of the metal shop. It could retract into a shallow closet when not needed). 7) I'd keep the saw at least 6 to 12 inches away from any wall, simply for access issues. You could also use this space to store a crosscut sled and any other jigs you end up using. 8) A sink within the shop is a nice idea. I'd put an easily raised flip up top over it for two reasons: 1) keeps the dirt out, and 2) gives you another small benchtop surface. 9) Have you considered fire suppression? Piping in the ceiling for a commercial fire suppression setup. Might save you $$ on insurance as well. Best of luck in figuring out your dual purpose shop layout!

[@brycepender6001]

Start with a drain in the floor to a grease trap, consider the wood cart being on wheels so you can move it to load direct from truck to cart without straining yourself carrying it. consider brenches on wheels or addable wheels for movement, keep bulk item movement close to door, , emergnecy lights fed from house in case of power failure, a swing out crane by the main door