Do you need a dc to dc charge controller?

Do you need a dc to dc charge controller? Welcome back, tech enthusiasts! In this episode, we're diving deep into the world of RV tech to answer a burning question: "Do you need a DC to DC charge controller?" 🤔
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[@Mmmyess]

FINALLY! THANK YOU! I can't tell you how many damn hours I've wasted here at KZbin University trying to get a straight-forward answer to that exact question. I saw a video where the guy said that the lithium battery would draw so much current that the OEM wire from the tow vehicle's alternator to the 7-pin connector would would heat up, melt off its insulation, and lead to a short, then a fire, then the end of civilization as we know it. Again...thank you!!!

[@dazzer_]

There is no straight forward answer, but in this instance the current is limited because the cables in the truck are so thin that you don't need the protection of a DC-DC converter. The downside is that the batteries will take forever to charge. Professional installations would always use suitably thicker cables and a DC-DC converter.

[@andysams6690]

You have great answers to RVers questions! We have a DC to DC charger on our Class C so we do get great charging on the road. The more ways to charge the better!

[@Bwanar1]

That's all fine and dandy, but doesn't let you charge that battery very fast. It would take days of driving. Using a DC to DC charger and larger wiring, would let you charge at 20 to even 40 Amp, significantly decreasing the time to charge a large, low Lithium battery.

[@JB-vg7qr]

But the trailer already has solar which should be topping up the battery as he's driving anyway...

[@1gesteban]

@@JB-vg7qr Even more so if you have 400+ watts worth of panels.

[@1gesteban]

I purchased your RV Maintenance and Repair Course after trying your free trial! Nice deal, too!! Can't wait to start learning! You're right: for less than the cost of a tech service call, it makes total sense!

[@tommcl386]

Thank you. You answered my question about the DC to DC charge controller.

[@hermes6587]

The whether one needs a dc to dc charger question in addition to what Todd said also depends on the output of the alternator and/or whether a second alternator is installed. There are alternators which crank out more than enough amps for lithium battery charging and would not require a dc to dc charger.

[@Bwanar1]

DC to DC chargers more than facilitate, battery charging from the alternator. They also control it. That would be like saying your don't need a charge controller for your panels, because they will charge batteries just hooking up directly.

[@1gesteban]

@@Bwanar1 - I look at like this: dc to dc chargers just give you one additional (and faster) way to charge your lithium battery when on the road. But if you don't want the added expense and the extra wiring involved, then you can just rely on your other (capable) sources. I agree that even though an alternator can crank out more amps, a dc-dc is more of a gateway to properly and efficiently charge the battery.

[@notaperson3338]

@@1gesteban and charge them with the correct charging profile. A straight alternator to battery connection is not going to do that. That's why a DC/DC charger is a better way to go in my opinion.

[@1gesteban]

Hey, Mr. Todd!! Thank you for featuring AND answering my question. As I was watching the video, I said "wow, that's sounds exactly like something I would ask right about now!". LOL! Anyway, thank you so much. Do you happen to have any videos on how/where to relocate the battery in order to keep it secure and out of sight? You guys rock!

[@cg60msc]

Hello from Norfolk, Virginia...

[@mwgillispie]

Thanks as always for your info...

[@ralphblom136]

Thank you for this video. My question is what limits the the amperage draw to the lifepo4 battery through the 7pin trailer connector? I currently drive a 2019 gmc Sierra 1500 crew cab. Love the videos. Wish your group would sell books on this subject. Have a great day.

[@AlpineWarren]

If my converter isn't lithium capable will it be okay to add lithium? I realize it won't do a full charge but the solar controller could help there? The camper I am looking at has an Overlander 200w Solar package with a GoPower 30 Amp controller installed so I am not sure if they also upgraded the Converter; so I have to look and get the model number. BTW this was an excellent video!

[@steven-ft5pz]

Needing to install a 20 amp dc to dc charger to charge lifepo4 battery in my trailer. Can I install it in the engine compartment an run 8 ga wires to trailer battery. A distance of about 15 ft

[@jonthornton4083]

Todd off your subject question. Have acquired 2006 Winnebago Cambria that has been stored for 12 years less than 1700 yes 1700 original miles Ford E450 chassis. Should I be concerned with suspension, shocks in particular. Have been completely thru chassis and coach. Thanks in advance.

[@inspectorh4548]

same for a chevrolet silverado?

[@97redtj]

I have a 2015 Onan generator 4000 spec P. The control board has an epoxy coating to protect it. There is a small crack on the face of the epoxy exposing the control board. Is this an issue?

[@ronreyes4221]

Question: I have a Renogy 20/40/60A 12V DC to DCOn-Board Battery Charger.My car is a leasedcar and so I hesitate to run wires up into the engine bay. Also since Iupgraded to Lithium power in my Travel Trailer my Battery in now inside of the Trailerand no longer on the hitch (outside)So I have two questions. 1. My SUV has a 12 volt (Cigarettelighter type) outlet conveniently located in the rear compartment. It is on a20 amp fuse and meant for items up to 180 watts. So would it be possible to usethis outlet for my power INTO the DC-DC charger? 2. As for power TO my Battery: Ihesitate to make another hole in my Trailer to gain access to the battery. CanI use the “Solar on the Side” input that is near the front of my Traveltrailer. From what I understand that goes directly to the battery. I have a RenogyVoyager 10A PWM Waterproof Solar ChargeController wired to that input. But I would be willing to upgrade that to 20amp Charge Controller if that would help?As you cansee I’m just trying to avoid custom wiring. What do you think?

[@paulvirag1852]

Been there, done it, recommend it😊

[@lapowers57]

I have a follow up question. I also have a Ford F150 and a TT with two 100ah lithium batteries, an electric fridge and 225 watts of solar on the roof. My solar controller and my converter are both set up for lithium. On a sunny day on the road my solar has no problem keeping the batteries fully charged. On a cloudy day, not so much. The charge supplied by the 7 pin, as one would expect, has little to no impact on charging the lithium batteries while driving. Would a small dc to dc charger allow the charge from the 7 pin to provide any benefit in charging my lithium batteries while driving? I am not interested in adding the heavier cable from my truck to the camper but I would like to maximize what is already there. Thanks.

[@injo503]

The problem is that the wire on the 7 pin connector isn't typically large enough to charge at 20 or more amps. If you could increase the size of the wire you could do better. You might be able to use a smaller dc to dc charger (20 amps or less) with the existing 7 pin wire if you mount the dc to dc charger towards the very front of your trailer nearest the 7 pin connection as to minimize wire length. Personally I would just upgrade the wire size, it's really not that hard.

[@johnnylightning1491]

The short answer is: No. There is only so much amperage (power) available at that 7 pin connector. Putting anything between that 7 pin connector will only reduce that amount of amperage available to charge the battery. The only way to increase the amount of amperage available to charge the battery is to run a bigger cable.