Do YOU Want To Know Why WE Don't Use Sleeve Pullers?

[@JAMSIONLINE]

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[@travel_like]

Thanks for interesting video. Please make part 2 video

[@ronsoderberg6542]

oo⁹a 😮

[@stykytte]

Raid sponsorships might seem tempting as they'll pay anyone willing to take them, but be warned the company uses deceptive practices and the "game" itself is terrible. That script they get you to rattle off is BS and anyone who has any experience with raid knows it. It's essentially a Ponzi scheme, they bait people into it with promises of fun, but it's just a click sim that demands real money payments to actually "play" at any enjoyable rate. I just found your channel and your content seems good, I generally unsub from any channel that runs more than one raid ad after the inevitable comments telling the creator they won't accept being lied to or being peddled a scam product. I will give you the benefit of the doubt of not knowing this time and give you a sub, but most people will just close the window when met with a Raid ad and they won't come back.

[@Ty81494]

Your video is great but just be honest the customer is a cheap fuck and buys cheap parts quality parts normally have less imperfections not all the time as humans we not perfect but by everything i seen in video yea hes a cheapy

[@piratewraith]

So you don't have do it twice. Counter bore to depth .005 -.007 deeper than the lowest point of the uneven deck height surface. This way you can dut the deck with the new sleeves in and save yourself time and aggravation.

[@alanweaver3017]

Shout out to the owner of the engine for not being like most of us guys and try to push though and make it work. You knew when to stop and ask for help. Fantastic work as always guys keep it up!!!!

[@belyear]

This is an often overlooked virtue. Knowing when things have gone wrong and getting help is almost as valuable as knowing how to do the job in the first place.

[@EddieTheH]

Yup, the wisest man is the one who knows his limits.

[@belyear]

@@EddieTheH absolutely

[@danielpotts9622]

Yesss Sirrr 💪💪💯🙏🙌🤘🔧🦾🏆💥🇺🇸👏👏🫡🫡🫡

[@GardenGuy1942]

I think they’re a coward

[@mikejansa4501]

I'd love to see a part 2. The struggle between perfection, doing a job to the absolute best of your ability, and doing a good job, knowing it's not perfect but maybe perfect for the scenario is a common struggle! Love watching how you guys tackle these things and take the time to film, edit, and post these videos! Keep up the good work!!

[@Calango741]

Yep, exactly...

[@stephensaines7100]

Reality and pragmatism is to work with what it is now. But damn that! For the amount of work put in so far, to get it as close to perfect as possible isn't that much more. I have to ask, and I'm mechanically minded, but not an advanced mechanic: Would it be possible to hone the walls closer to round and insert the sleeves with a compound to fill the 'voids' or 'valleys' to at least improve the concentricity of the sleeves when machined?

[@LeonardRoberts]

I too would like to see a and part to the video. It's tough for machists, mechanics and others who strive to put out the very best product we can, however need to work within the customer's price range and desires/wishes.

[@crave809]

I found y’all thru the shorts and have fallen headfirst first into your channel, love the content and how down to earth you guys are. I can’t wait for more!

[@OutDoorsMan1342]

​@@stephensaines7100 hey mate, I'm not a mechinest, but I don't believe there is anything for an I.D. to fill voids. there is however a thing called a speedy sleeve fot the O.D. of a shaft like an axel, that has a groove worn into it by a seal to do a sami reliable repair. However in this case 1 could put the sleeves in and rebore and hone the bores, however it is still not a great practice due to the various thicknesses . But a great question none the less

[@realtundratrash]

My favorite part about you and your dad's shop is that you guys have the wisdom to realize not everybody is made of money, and you're not working on Ferraris. Quality work and skill and attention to detail, but also the experience to know what's crucial and what's not. Keep up the good work! Loving the videos

[@philwilhelm2564]

I'm a 76 year old cancer patient. There are times I have to stay in bed for a long time wondering what to watch besides boring TV. Your videos for me are new, informative, refreshing, and simply easy to watch. (P.S. Even retired pilots get tired of watching airplane stuff.)

[@rrcaniglia]

I come from Nebraska and have spent lots of time in small farm towns admiring the ingenuity of the machine shops/farm equipment repair folks. Pure, simple competence and you’re right there with ‘em.

[@deanmeyer1815]

I would like to see a part 2. Not necessarily the whole process, but, at least what decision the owner made and how the job turned out. I agree with your cleanup guy, take into consideration what the part is going to be used for and know that perfection is not always necessary to get the desired result and and can be overkill in some circumstances. Love the vids, very informative, thanks for taking the time to make and share them with us. Hope the Allis is trouble free and productive in the future.

[@billywird]

It is a money decision and in this case as stated the method put forth by Jim will be the most cost effective way to go. Most good shops are in constant communication with their customers. I would just document on the bill what was done and the reason for it. It protects the shop and it protects the customer.

[@adamrogers4706]

Definitely want a part 2. We need to know what the customer decided to do.

[@stephenphillips9661]

Would luv to see Part 2!!! As a mechanic / machinist I understand the customer’s budget is always a driving factor so it is always good the have options available and with the watching of other fellow machinist sometimes one will come across something that has been missed or discover that what they have been doing could be done better!!

[@stacy6014]

I faced this exact same situation on a 1951 Ford 8n engine. We decided to install 2 repair sleeves and bore them to standard ID for the replacement sleeves. Recut the counterbores and a slight decking to make it flat. Its been about 10 years now and it still runs good. Wish grandpa was around to see his tractor run better than it had in 50 years. Love the videos guys. Joe

[@billyhorton5779]

I removed the sleeves on an old farm tractor by arc welding a short bead vertically on opposite sides of the sleeve. After cooling off, the weld will shrink, and the sleeves are easily removed. This was all done "inframe" without removing the crankshaft. The owner just wanted to get it running as the tractor was an old farmall that was not worth much.

[@zaneturner4478]

I enjoy watching you guys as you are 1st class in your work. It is great to see a young man following his dad in what is a great trade but sadly dieing out. In my area there is 20 or so machine shops with only 2 that are any good so I am looking at 4 months or longer to get work done. I retired from machine shop and sold my equipment, worst mistake I ever made.

[@billk9628]

Welding the sleeve will shrink them, weld beeds the length of the sleeve. Allow to cool, then pull it. When they shrink they may just fall out. Use this same technique for bearing races inside a case wall.😊

[@TheCaptainSlappy]

I was going to say that as well. Seen it plenty of times. Works every time.

[@BrianPurdon]

Not a bad idea. Rebuilt 3 diesel perkins over the years. In tractors. Dry sleeve have 50 ton press. + Lathe etc. remove plenty of bearing shells with welder. Simple things allways get you. Thanks.

[@zdog90210]

I'm glad to see you guys getting that ad money. Personally idc who you advertise for I'm happy to see you guys and this channel growing!

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Thanks for understanding why we advertise! It's very time consuming to film, edit, create this content. We enjoy sharing our work with our viewers, but the ad income sure helps the bottom line!! It also will allow us to continue to grow and purchase new equipment.

[@stykytte]

What if it was more obviously a scam product? Would you be glad someone was getting money by lying to you?

[@dwaynezilla]

Raidy Shady is a rite of passage at this point

[@johnhoops3531]

@@JAMSIONLINEkeep up the excellent work. Love all the detail you put into the video.

[@gboots9009]

I've rebuilt many N series Ford engines (8N, 9N, 2N) and the newer generation engines like this one, and can tell you the parent bore is never round. I don't think it's from poor previous machining, but more from these blocks being 70+ years old with countless heat cycles. While not the best way, I can say from experience that installing the sleeves and touching them up with a hone will absolutely work just fine for what that engine is. I understand wanting to do it right, but unfortunately, it doesn't always make sense financially from the customers' perspective when you can achieve satisfactory results using what you have.

[@RobertBeck-pp2ru]

Right on. Customers expectations should be tempered by reality. These work horses ran just fine in not so perfect blueprint condition.

[@rickden8362]

@@RobertBeck-pp2ru It seem like he should have assessed the condition of bores before you proceeded with decking and addition work. Some people might think he performed necessary work to lock the customer into completing a job he might not have proceeded with if he knew what lay ahead. Just an opinion. Cheers

[@markcollins457]

I enjoy the precision, I'm not a machinist but when I need to turn a job over to the pros this is what I'm looking for. This type of work is what makes finished work shine.😊

[@muggins57]

I vote for a part 2. Your videos are always on par with the quality of your machine work!

[@Stevie_D]

Part 2 PLEASE!! Always informative and I love the fun and informative discussions between you and Dad.

[@donniceblakely1075]

You are a blessed young man being able to work with you father . The cleaning guy is not only a great machinist but a pretty good dad also. As always fellows I enjoy watching your videos

[@andrewharding1061]

As a fellow machinist I love your content. I’m gearbox machinists so it’s nice to get to see the other processes. Keep up the great work!

[@zeke1eod]

Yes show us everything, please. I could watch machining videos nonstop. Thanks for all y'all do, stay safe and God bless

[@texastopshotsphotography2997]

Yes to a part 2. Let’s see how the customer and you guys resolve the situation.

[@Chris-cz6hn]

I am a machinist, Cylindrical grinding OD/ID is my trade with a bit of lathe and flat work when its slow. Somehow after spending 10 hours watching sparks I still am able to be entertained by your videos and that says a lot about the quality of your videos. Plus there is always something I can learn. Thanks for the hard work guys keep it up.

[@justinteller2184]

Part 2 would be great. I want to see it finished whichever way you do it. Yeah sometimes sadly just not financially feasible on customers budget to get perfect work done for the customers everytime, but still great work!

[@michaelprue9024]

This was my watching the 4th video by you guys. I am a 35 year journeyman diesel mechanic, so I get it. Now I am a subscriber. You guys are doing exactly the type of work I always wanted to do but never learned. I love it, and if I were living closer by I’d bet I’d be dropping in on your shop just to shoot the breeze and maybe garnish some knowledge from you. Thank for the content, it’s awesome !

[@Charger1908]

I really enjoy watching you guys. I’ve always wanted to own a machine shop but life got in the way, now I’m to old. But I’ve learned to be a very knowledgeable mechanic through the years. Keep up the great vids see you soon!

[@Guroji]

I LOVE that you double and triple check the important work. different tools and all. Really shows your expertise and knowledge

[@mikehole9530]

I vote for a part two. I really enjoy your channel and it's content. It would be great to see how this job ends up being finished.

[@Turboy65]

Pro tip to keep your blasting cabinet's windows clearer, for longer: Before installing a new window have automotive paint protection film applied over it on the inside the cabinet surface. Blasting media will bounce off and not scratch it, or very little, plus the stuff is self healing. You should get substantially improved window life this way.

[@RossReedstrom]

This is a really cool tip! It's one of those things that's obvious once you say it. Surprised (not surprised: cost cutting) they don't come that way.

[@bamzager]

Yes would like a part 2 on this. 🙂 For me the amount of perfection you put into the work relates to the amount of satisfaction you get out of it in the end. And it,s also part of keeping you going thru the years even when at times business is bad. That said, it,s also important to do the best job that the customer can afford. (within reason that is. Quality of the work comes first on this) Really like this channel, the content and the way it is presented, so thank you both for putting in the effort. 👍

[@billl7551]

13.22 is the best part of the wisdom of the job. Having done a few hundred rebuilds in the early 70's, I found this kind of shop expertise is the only shop to use. Nothing is ever perfect. It might be possible to hone the sleeves round after installation (w/torque plate), but tricky to keep from being too thin. Maybe there is excess wall thickness, it would be wise for the sleeve vendor to have that available. Your response to this option would be appreciated.

[@mitchellgiebelhaus8020]

I do larger industrial natural gas engines, most often they have wet liners so pullers or sockets and baring the engine push them out. We sometimes have to get machinists out to cut counter bores and make inserts for the wet liners. Don't think I've see you guys have a video on that! Would be cool the next time you have a chance to do it!

[@JohnH20111]

massive respect for you and your family for the amazing and impressive work that you’re doing i’m seriously impressed by the amount of work that you put into the precision of the work

[@rollydoucet8909]

Looking at those bores, and seeing how out-of-round they are, the only option is to get slightly bigger (OD) sleeves. We often call on Darton, or LA Sleeve for custom-made sleeves, if nothing is available off the shelf. I like this video, good straight forward description work being done.

[@andysfishden6506]

I vote for a part two, I'm interested to see what the owner decides to do. Also, do you do performance engine builds like for drag or circle track cars?

[@tconiam]

Love watching experienced professionals at work, I learn so much about things I would never have thought of! I think I missed out on not learning machining. As something of a perfectionist myself, I totally understand that sometimes you have to just stop at good-enough.

[@cobra02411]

I personally would love to see part 2 - no matter what direction you go. Not everyone has oodles and oodles of money for such things so you do the best you can and knowing what acceptable compromises there are and when you would use them vs something else is great information to get out there.

[@barblemons5397]

Usually in such work all you can do is remove metal because it gets expensive real quick to replace it. Case in point would be sleeves inside of sleeves or custom sleeves. Good job! Tom

[@andrealt9261]

fantastic work u did there. i always enjoy. ur dad is right, sometimes u have to go shopping with the customers wallet, even if it isnt for a 101% quality outcome , even though u feel like to. edit: pls let there be a part 2 if its worth the time editing. thanks so much

[@edsmachine93]

Nice job getting the old sleeves out. Perkins had a bulletin on a 4 cylinder I did. Hone the tight spots. And use Locktite 640 Sleeve retainer. Good up to .10 mm, .0039. Should be able to round up the cylinders in your CV616 Sunnen. Let the Loctite cure and finish hone. While not perfect, should be better than the last job on this engine. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.

[@SugarWolf09]

I would love to see a part 2! What is the difference price wise to do 'just good enough' vs 'doing it right'? I have no idea, I'm not in this industry, but I love this content, keep up the good work!

[@Farmersamm]

Pulled the liners on my 354 Perkins by running a weld bead inside the liner bore. This causes the metal to contract when the bead cools, and makes pulling the liner a breeze. 3/32 7018 works nicely for this. It's a lower penetration rod. Bend it so you can run a bead top to bottom, let it cool, and have at it. When pulling anything...........heat is your friend. If I had the machinery, I would definitely opt for your method.

[@GogogoFolowMe]

At 05:15 you mentioned your dad, it would be nice to meet him one time on video. We only get to see the cleaning guy every now and then ! [edit] correct time stamp on the video instead of the premiere.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

lol

[@GogogoFolowMe]

@@JAMSIONLINE Hehe :) That's so satifying to have only a paper-thin cylinder to remove from the block

[@tuberNunya]

I would never have thought that I would spend hours learning about machining. Now I know how important a machinist is. Thank you.

[@toggenation]

Verifying trust... Love the verbal walk-throughs you do of your machining processes.

[@seldomseen7835]

As a lifelong amateur mechanic and having rebuilt several Ducati 750 GT roundcase engines I really appreciate your attention to detail. I have seen several different valve seat cutting rigs the single cutter one you guys use surprised me I thought the three cutter staggered radial position setup was better from a chatter point of view. A single cutter with multiple angels as my shop teacher would say is a forming tool and because of the large contact cutting surface needs power and rigidity to mitigate chatter. Having send all that watching you correct a 3 thou valve runout to under .0005 or half a thou for the imperial crowd was awesome . The variable speed drive and air bed valve machine is an amazing bit of kit. Wobbles the mad Aussie.

[@88SC]

Great video! I really enjoy the way you show us the decision process as well as the work process.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Joe___R]

Would you be able to make your own oversized sleeves? As long as you have a good lathe sleeves are not a difficult thing to machine. Just get some cast iron tubing that is close to the necessary size. McMaster-Carr most likely has what you would need if your local supplier doesn't.

[@cen-flotrucking9876]

Part 2!

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Noted!

[@dakotavogel6907]

I am currently restoring and doing an engine rebuild on a mid 50s ford tractor with the same engine, I did pull sleeves with a puller as this is my first full engine rebuild project. All of the measurements that you have gotten are all very similar to what I have gotten, all I had to do was hone out the sleeves once installed because there weren't very accurate and there was just about no cross hatching. Liked the video and would love to see another video of this engine.

[@jeffnevius]

You can take your mig and weld a bead 90 degrees apart, so 4 beads the length of the sleeve let cool they shrink enough and come right out.

[@ZMAN_420]

Same with bearing races. But I prefer the air hammer.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Have seen damage and failed attempts from our customers who use their welders too 🤣 But yes it works, if you’re careful. We still prefer boring.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Running a bead of weld up and down the sleeve wall as you have suggested is a very bad idea. If you are skilled enough to not burn through the thin sleeve and weld the sleeve to the block, the heat will penetrate deep enough into the parent bore and create distortion in the block. Then if the sleeve does not come out as expected, it cannot be bored out because welding cast iron creates extremely hard spots that our cutters will not touch. Next time you do one that way, check the parent bore with a bore gauge when you get done. You will see what I am talking about. The Cleaning Guy.

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

The cleaning guy knows.

[@Jurgy777]

Everyone thinks they're a welder.. But just because you own a welder doesn't mean you are one.

[@leonardhirtle3645]

I subscribed to your channel just over a year ago and have been watching older videos. Your work is professional and very satisfying to watch . Although I am old and bedridden I get great satisfaction from watching your videos. I was a heavy duty mechanic and did some machine work over the years. Just easy stuff,nothing like what you do. Thank you.

[@Sicktrickintuner]

Would installing the sleeve and honing back round work? Or just knocking off the 2.5 thou undersized of the parent bore then at least it’s only 2.5 thou out and not 5 Then installing the sleeves and maybe getting those a thou more round then the bore? That might open up the tolerances, but it might be on the loose end and save the customer some $ overall

[@roccocroce]

Ahhhhh cmon y’all shouldn’t support those freemium pay to play games man.

[@djeriejr3783]

They pay KZbinrs really well that’s why you see that same game on a lot of videos

[@thomasrape4616]

I've resleved 3 blocks in my time and learned from an old timer how. He had me use a stick welder to run a bead from bottom to top of the dry sleeve. When it cooled I removed 5 of the 6 sleeve with my hand the other only required a little pull with a puller for about 1/2" then just slipped out. You guys are amazing, wish there was an engine machine shop in my area with people as skilled as y'all.

[@RobertBeck-pp2ru]

I recently re-sleeved my'52 Case SC. A wet sleeve engine. Made my own puller to pop them out. Case calls for the new sleeve to project .003" above the block when fully seated. After carefully cleaning the cntr bores I installed the new sleeves and was relieved to see two were at about .0025" and the other two were just under .003". For a 70 year old engine I wasn't expecting super power, but the improvement was notable. These old engines will continue to serve the owners for many more years, even if they are not blueprint perfect. I enjoyed this video. Thanks for posting.

[@frotobaggins7169]

Props for listening to the customer and working with them to find a less than ideal solution. I feel like with a great many people today, "it's my way or the hiway" is the attitude.

[@studdy68]

Absolutely want a part 2. And there's nothing at all wrong with having a low RPM motor that works solid and wont be abused. They can run forever if you take care of them.

[@FuelMan]

Hey guys, my name is Gene. I enjoy your videos. Back on high school I had a metal's class and I got to use an old metal lathe and milling machine. I wanted to go to school for a machinist degree, but life to a different path and I've been driving truck for 25 years. I still enjoy enjoy welding and trying to build stuff in my garage when time allows it. I did build my own utility trailer out of random scrap metal I found. I'm proud of it.

[@dzeeeeko]

I have to be honest, I normally have no clue what you guys are talking about, but I'm slowly learning. I subscribed because of the thoroughness of your work. It has a very satisfying ending...usually! Keep up the great work.

[@somethingelsehere8089]

Yes, comment here asking for Part two! Primary for me is seeing how you deal with that rust that remains on the bores in the block. How do you remove it without making the bore too sloppy, or alternately, how much does removing it affect the clearance/fit.

[@robsmith715]

I absolutely love, admire, and envy your dad/son camaraderie! Always a pleasure to watch you two!

[@FixTechStuff]

Nothing more satisfying on KZbin than watching a warped and worn out old block being made new. I could watch it all day.

[@joe51chevy7]

I’ve got a cutter that I made to cut a groove in the length of the sleeve. After cutting a groove in it, it can be peeled away in a similar fashion as what you did. I agree a puller is not a good idea on dry liners, although many manufacturers said to do it that way.

[@johnmcclain3887]

I've been doing this sort of work on motorcycles for forty years, I always enjoy watching others deal with the problems, headaches I occasionally run into, because other's ideas often inform my own. I've got a farmall cub tractor I did a similar job on twenty years ago, and it still runs today, pulling trees out of the forest behind my home. I was able to simply hone the cylinders and put rings in, one of the easiest engines I've ever rebuilt. Great use of the bore gauge for cylinder roundness.

[@87weberdrex]

This is so cool. Found you guys browsing shorts, think I'll stick around because I enjoyed this video. I'm a small engine mechanic by trade but a gear head by nature and I love seeing what goes into working metal.

[@DarkHawk666]

I own a factory that manufacturers industrial springs, it's always good to see how others operate. Thanks for educating us.

[@joannaatkins822]

I'm with everyone else in that I'd like an update if not a Short, or short video about this block. I have a question; what's the worst condition block you've brought back to life to your highest standards? Would you say that was the straight six jaguar engine?

[@yafois988]

Thats what we did in my machine shop, just bore sleeves out usually.

[@ronmccants8678]

So many times a genuine machine shop saved my bacon. Throughout my career (retired now) my reputation for building great engines was due to having access to some of the best machine shops. All I had to do was put um together right 😁 it was a treat running into your channel, being a perfectionist from an early age my engine builds started off at the machine shop. It’s virtually impossible to do a complete inspection without at least a trip to the hot tank. Every sleeve that was ever replaced under my watch was done the way you did in this video, with the exception to a couple of English engines I built. A V12 Jaguar (wet sleeves) a piece of cake and a Roll’s Royce block that required a sweat fit, where the block had to be heated and the sleeves in a bath of liquid nitrogen, I called it double 300. 300 degree temp black and minus 300 for the sleeves. Those are super hairy as you gotta be quick. Sadly these days, guys over rev blow engines up, destroy drive line components just for the sake of showing off for the crowd. With all of the work I put into building my cars, there’s no way I could abuse my cars the way I see them done today. In the late 80’s I built an Austin Healey with a small block Chevy, that ran a full quarter mile (1320 ft) in high 9’s and low 10’s on pump gas. Back then it wasn’t about tire smoke and burn outs, it was about hookin! You guys do beautiful work! Really brings back memories, not to mention the machinist is relatively young! And fortunate the skills got passed down, as skilled machinists are few and far between.

[@Larsgman]

You guys seem like experts from this video alone. Wish i had people like you to help rescue my old 2002 dodge 1500 but everything is so expensive nowadays, from engine replacement to rebuilding 😢

[@onecookieboy]

Nice video, many thanks. In this case I think putting the liners in as it is would be perfectly acceptable and quite possibly better than it was when it was brand new, machining and tolerances that can be achieved have improved so much over the last 50 years that we can do things now that were impossible back in the day.

[@johneubanks5951]

I don't think I've ever watched a more honest group of guys at a machine shop than these 2..Great work and honest about what they do. But like dad said, he agreed with Jr. That they're are perfectionist at their craft and do not do garbage work,( I'm honestly the same way I feel), but you gotta work with what you got and within your parameters...Great work guys, keep up the good, CLEAN videos too .Thank you..🇺🇸💪☝️

[@tstevens6554]

Absolutely do a Part II. You guys have some enjoyable and satisfying content and you do great work.

[@bobjohnston8316]

I’m a chemist by training and always looking for a solution to problems by using chemistry. Why not put a wooden plug in the bottom of the bore, fill it 2/3 with acetone and the rest of the way with dry ice? That should shrink the liner nicely. Back in the heyday of this block Ford used to use heating and shrink fitting to make up a lot of assemblies (as you guys no doubt know well). I have always wondered if cryogenics couldn’t be used in a sort of reverse mode today to get the same job done.

[@stevenm3141]

Definitely need an update! And it's first time I've heard of sleeve in sleeve... However, is it because someone has stoned the cylinders too much the wrong way.? Or do you think it's a factory situation?

[@JAMSIONLINE]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKC7eJ2hbsemisU It’s an older video, but take a look 🤓 In this case the damage is likely just years of service. You would be surprised what a piston can do to a cylinder in that much run time…

[@optimusprimum]

Nothing beats the love of a good man and the skills past on from a father. I envy your guys set up and life, make the most of it. Thank you for this content.

[@adiamondforever7890]

I have two of those motors, non sleeved versions, I need to rebuild the 172 to install in my tractor as a spare when I pull the 134 out (very bad blow by under load, badly pitted block). The 134 runs fine, other than cylinder 2 and 3 were full of water at one time and badly rusted, shower of rust when those cylinders finally started to fire. I got a pulled 'core' industrial to rebuild. Would you recommend boring and using liners, or using oversized pistons if needed. I have the tools to hone oversize if I go that route, but finding a machine shop that really knows how to use boring equipment is like hens teeth, rare. I was hoping to go dry liner so the next owner would be stock guts, but I until I open it, who knows how bad it is. Have fun, Been wrenching for more than 50 years

[@justsomeguy6474]

At the shops I worked at, we just scalped out the sleeve using a 2" boring bar on the mill. Get to about 10 thou from the original bore and the sleeve buckles. After set up I could remove 6 sleeves in about 20 minutes.

[@rossilake3430]

Jim knows, everything we do is to a price point. If it were one of my classics I would spend the money. Every good shop has a Shop Dog, apparently you x-boxers have a loyal couch dog also. Lol...Jim has great hair (don’t mess) compared to 75% of us his age. Love the channel.👍

[@rickden8362]

It seem like he should have assessed the condition of bores before you proceeded with decking and addition work. Some people might think he performed necessary work to lock the customer into completing a job he might not have proceeded with if he knew what lay ahead. Just an opinion. Cheers

[@alwayssearching1882]

I wish I had a father like Sr. HIs demeanor and skills as a teacher are pleasant. Reminds me of an old shop teacher I had that helped me get through school.

[@jonschick]

So satisfying to hear cast iron being machined. Beautiful work! Sometimes, it just needs to work. If it’s for an old tractor, it probably won’t see more than 2000 rpm.

[@brucethoel3636]

We always ran a few beads of weld inside the sleeve to shrink them, then slide them out. We always measured the bore after we removed the sleeves, then ordered what we needed.

[@georgestringam689]

Interesting on how you remove old sleeves. I never relied too heavily on sleeve pullers either. An old school mechanic told me to just weld a thin zig-zag bead down one side of the sleeve and it would all but fall out. It did. We would then take the Sunnen hone to shine up the bore then install the new sleeves. Of course there were times we had to take the block to the machine shop to clean up the counterbores and deck the block. I might add that the first time I had to remove sleeves was on a motorcycle engine. I ran a bead of weld down the bore and they came out without too much problem. Had to put the block in the oven and the new sleeves in the icebox to get them in. Worked fine. That was 54 years ago. Oh yes, I like your method of pulling sleeves better. We had an old style boring bar but I never thought it could be used to bore the sleeves out paper thin. Great idea...

[@Will-lt4uo]

Definitely show us part 2! I love these old engines and am in the process of getting my fathers old ford working the fields again. Those Red Tiger engines were tanks! And great job going into all the detail and specs!

[@garymeredith2441]

Everytime I watch you guys it is perfection work , this is the reason I would send things to you although I live in California , with this customer you simply have to tell him you have distorted bore you need to be perfectly round not oval shaped and that does cost money to get a perfect bore to put in that sleeve that you were talking about putting in . As always you and your father put out fantastic videos and I love your work .

[@bobelkiniii1461]

I’m a cnc operator for 21 years now and your videos always get me hype to quit my job and find a job doing this

[@rogerbayzand4455]

Looking forward to part 2, sounds like those sleeves are going back in as is. It looks like a 2700 series Ford which powered many of my fishing boats.

[@jonahrens1274]

Have you ever tried hard chroming the sleeves. As a tool and die maker we used to hard chrome pins and bushings that were bored to large. They were able to chrome to a given diameter.

[@lateefcarrere1649]

I'd appreciate a pt.2, and let me also say that I appreciate that you take the customer's opinion/budget into consideration when planning your next steps in a repair like this. I had a shop(recommended by a friend) do some work for me, but instead of reaching out to me and informing me of the situation they encountered, they decided to just do the work and charge me extra. Needless to say, I was not impressed, and they lost future business with my friend and others after I told them and the proper authorities.

[@axkoula7851]

Excellent quality work. When I did the first rebuild on my Ford diesel tractor and had sleeves installed, I am pretty sure they did it with a tape measure, a sledgehammer and a block of wood. Now it's nearing the second rebuild and I would much rather find a new short block if possible. All that because I can't find a machine shop that takes pride in their work.

[@lilhip18]

Nice to see the in depth explanation of every repair. Keep up the great work guys!

[@MrCrabbing]

Love seeing that sharp cutting neat, I have seen dry sleeves removed with a old screwdriver used like a chisel, mind that was on old Ford tractor stuff.

[@windyboy78]

Just subbed! As a machinist I respect your care and accuracy with your measuring and setup. Cheers mate!

[@donhuebert9151]

Yes, part 2 please. Also what about making it less out of round by cutting the undersize stuff away and leaving the oversize areas alone? Instead of being 0.006" out of round it will only be 0.003" OOR.

[@markhightower647]

My father worked at Carlton machine tool in Cincinnati Ohio in the 50s and 60s. He designed and built a lot of the boring machine used by Ford , Chrysler and 6:44 General motors . He eventually went on to design and build the first automobile shredder using the Pettibone Rock crusher for a basis. The first job was working on a machine shop fresh out of high school. Was fortunate that my father taught me to read blueprints at a young age. Great that you're working with your dad love you videos keep up the good work!

[@RK48frazergasser]

This is why you guys will always do my machine work. You go clean up guy your awesome

[@haydenc2742]

Could you run a bead of weld vertically up the sleeve to shrink it to help pull it pull the sleeves without causing issues with the bore?

[@fascistpedant758]

That was my first thought also.

[@danjosephson6910]

I've done that. H Farmall. Two came right out with a puller. A couple of weld beads loosened the other two. Just a word of caution to anyone who hasn't done it, just make sure you don't burn through the sleeve when welding. It doesn't take much and they shrink loose.

[@Conservator.]

5:15 You asked for a comment, do here you go 😊 Love content. Greetings from The Netherlands!

[@philippatek3928]

Definitely a part 2!! I could watch these over and over… so cool!!

[@geoffmolyneux9173]

Spray weld/re boring would be another option to make cylinder sleeve block OD bore smaller. Or you could spray weld cylinder sleeve OD bigger. Maybe one day there will be a 3D additive printer to fix old engine blocks

[@seantatham9960]

Nice work. The old dry liner engines I’ve worked on I always ran a few beads of weld in them to shrink the sleeve and they nearly fall out

[@gamerjay6624]

Yeah mate , we always ran a couple of lines of weld down the bore of dry liners and never had dramas, I’m surprised you’re the only other person in the comments that’s mentioned a very common practice