Dodge,Chrysler,Jeep, UNLOCK DISARM factory Alarm Sentry Key 06 Ram3500 Diesel @streetwrenchmonkey

++Sharing my knowledge to help all of you, paid for by me and my hard working web dev services, head to srbidge.com; if you need software engineering work.
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++ facebook @srbridge
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+++++ UPDATE 09-2023 ++++++
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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You do not need a DRB
Do not need a replacement wireless control module or new sentry setup or new keys.
+ I found this fix after days of research on my dead truck.
+ How I got here? Bought a used 2006 Ram 3500 Diesel a month ago (only one dodge key, fob not working); 2 days later I got stuck @ my job parking lot due to an alarm going off. I realized, the truck had an aftermarket alarm active and installed with no FOBS. Last week, parked in my driveway and started to uninstall that cheap shit alarm. Removed all wiring and BAM, instant Factory-Sentry Based alarm activates with ecu/ignition kill and my truck was stuck for a few days.
+ Over the course of 4 days, I stripped off the door panel and steering panels to check all wiring and remove all aftermarket $h|t wiring.
+ Plus researching like hell, how to dis-arm the factory alarm.
+++UPDATE 2023- After years I got my research/library site built.
I have this PINNED IN THE COMMENTS, But you can read here
2006-2007 Ram 3500 SKREEM Programming
intellectualpe...
+ ISSUE = red light on gauge cluster was flashing because the truck was stuck in ALARM MODE or theft mode active. the truck started twice, and within 3 seconds of running shut off with a blinking red light/alarm light. Then, it refused to start and the immobilizer was stuck in active.
+ HOW I GOT THE FIX? - 4 days of searching the web, I tried a ton of ram 3500 posts and nothing worked, everyone said, tow to dealer, new SENTRY SETUP/WIRELESS CONTROL MOD AND NEW KEYS. After reading JEEP, CHRYSLER AND RAM FORUMS, I experimented with a combination of tactics used from All and it works!
+ Jeep taught me about the unlock of the Sentry Setup.
+ Chrysler taught me about the seat belt trick.
+ Ram taught me the rest.
+ FIX to Disarm the Sentry/WCM/Theft/Blinking red light/truck not starting. NOTE, must be performed within a 15 second countdown. if you take longer than 15 seconds, start over. the 2006 Ram 3500 has a 15 second window.
- KEY, I only have one key, FOB not working, driver door lock arm/disarm not working.
- Disconnect batteries and leave disco over night.
- Get your FOB working, I read on Dodge site and Dodge manual, the 2006 RAM 3500 can only disarm from the fob; NOT the door lock. I dismantled my FOB, attached 2 3volt batteries and energize the fob. Then, removed and reassemble the FOB with one new battery.
- Reattached the batteries in the engine bay.
- Find FUSE #11 in the engine bay, its the IOD fuse. remove it, 2 mins, reinstall.
- Now within 15 Seconds.
- Hit the lock button on your FOB.
- Hit the UNLOCK button on your fob.
- OPEN the door.
- Instantly, attach the SEAT-BELT (YES, the truck alarm is wired tot he seat-belt; SCREWED UP HUH?)
- Jump in the truck and closed the door
- Insert key in the ignition
- turn to ON/run position
- when you see the red light initially LIGHT UP, turn key and start the truck!
- BAM, fixed. let the truck run for 15 minutes. 15 SECONDS Actions are complete.
- Sit there and play a game on your phone.
- Turn off the truck,
- Open door,
- Jump out,
- unplug/remove seat belt,
- close the truck and you are good to go.
+ IF the truck does not start and you have a blinking red light (security active).
You need to reset the WCM/Sentry system.
+ To reset:
+ Attached a battery charger/tender to the truck.
+ unlock the truck with the FOB
+ insert the key
+ Turn to RUN (the position where all electronics are powered up, all lights and engine light is powered up, that key position right before you turn it to start the car/truck).
+ leave it for an hour and leave the door open.
--- By having the key sit in the ignition and the fob within an inch of the Sentry, the WCM/LOCKED UP wireless box will UNLOCK on its own. You will not need a new box or new keys etc.
+ come back an hour later, turn everything off, get out of the truck, shut the door
+ remove battery tender, close the hood and try all the instructions I mentioned above again.
+ After 4 days of my truck sitting dead in my driveway, through hours of myself researching and trying everything, this worked for me.
++Also, if you need a manual or diagrams, you can head over to AutoZone.com, signing and select manuals to get free diagrams. Special thanks to them, for that feature.
GOOD LUCK

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI Everyone, if you have the scan tools and computers..... these are the instructions for a 2006/07 Dodge Ram. SKREEM PROGRAMMING Only posting for info, I recommend you let the dealer do this. Dont try it at home unless you can and have flashed your own ecu's. When a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for a gasoline engine, or an Engine Control Module (ECM) for a diesel engine and the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless Control Module/WCM) on vehicles equipped NOTE: If the PCM and the SKREEM are replaced at the same time, program the PCM VIN into the PCM first. 1. If applicable first replace the PCM/ECM with the original WCM still connected to the vehicle. 2. Using the appropriate program the new PCM/ECM. (This will ensure the Secret Key Transfer from the original WCM into the new PCM/ECM). 3. Now replace and program the WCM. This will retain the Secret Key from the PCM/ECM back into the new WCM. 4. With the scan tool, select Miscellaneous Functions, WCM/Wireless Control Module. Then select the desired procedure and follow the display on the scan tool. 5. If the vehicle is equipped with Tire Pressure Monitoring System program the Placard Pressure Values into the WCM/SKREEM. 6. Ensure all the customer's keys have been programmed into the new module if necessary. NOTE: If the original keys do not successfully program to the new SKREEM after the proper procedures are followed correctly, programming new keys will be necessary. PROGRAMMING THE SKREEM The SKIS Secret Key is an ID code that is unique to each SKREEM/WCM. This code is programmed and stored in the SKREEM/WCM, the PCM/ECM, and each ignition key transponder chip. When the PCM/ECM or SKREEM/WCM is replaced, it is necessary to program the Secret Key into the new module using a diagnostic scan tool. Follow the programming steps outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for PCM REPLACED, ECM REPLACED, WCM REPLACED, or GATEWAY REPLACED under MISCELLANEOUS FUNCTIONS for the WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE/WCM menu item as appropriate. NOTE: Programming the PCM/ECM or SKREEM is done using a diagnostic scan tool and a PIN to enter secure access mode. If three attempts are made to enter secure access mode using an incorrect PIN, secure access mode will be locked out for one hour. To exit this lockout mode, turn the ignition to the RUN position for one hour then enter the correct PIN. Be certain that all accessories are turned OFF. Also monitor the battery state and connect a battery charger if necessary When a ECM and the SKIM are replaced at the same time perform the following steps in order: 1. Program the new SKIM 2. Program the new ECM 3. Replace all ignition keys and program them to the new SKIM. ECM/SKIM/WCM PROGRAMMING When an ECM (Bosch) and the SKIM are replaced at the same time perform the following steps in order: 1. Program the new SKIM 2. Program the new ECM (Bosch) 3. Replace all ignition keys and program them to the new SKIM. PROGRAMMING THE SKIM CAUTION: Read all notes and cautions for programming procedures. 1. Connect a battery charger to the vehicle. 2. Connect the StarSCAN(R). CAUTION: If the ECM/PCM and SKREEM/WCM are replaced at the same time, the ECM/PCM MUST be programmed before the SKREEM/WCM. 3. Select "ECU View". 4. Select "WCM Wireless Control Module". 5. Select "Miscellaneous Functions". 6. Select WCM replaced. 7. Enter the PIN when prompted. 8. Verify the correct information. NOTE: If the ECM and the SKIM are replaced at the same time, all vehicle keys will need to be replaced and programmed to the new SKIM. PROGRAMMING IGNITION KEYS TO THE SKREEM Each ignition key transponder also has a unique ID code that is assigned at the time the key is manufactured. When a key is programmed into the SKREEM/WCM, the transponder ID code is learned by the module and the transponder acquires the unique Secret Key ID code from the SKREEM/WCM. To program ignition keys into the SKREEM/WCM, follow the programming steps outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for PROGRAM IGNITION KEYS OR KEY FOBS under MISCELLANEOUS FUNCTIONS for the WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE/WCM menu item. NOTE: If the original keys do not successfully program to the new SKREEM after the proper procedures are followed correctly, programming new keys will be necessary. PROGRAMMING NOT ATTEMPTED - The scan tool attempts to read the programmed key status and there are no keys programmed into SKREEM memory. - PROGRAMMING KEY FAILED (POSSIBLE USED KEY FROM WRONG VEHICLE) - SKREEM is unable to program an ignition key transponder due to one of the following: - The ignition key transponder is ineffective. - The ignition key transponder is or has been already programmed to another vehicle. - 8 KEYS ALREADY LEARNED, PROGRAMMING NOT DONE - The SKREEM transponder ID memory is full. - LEARNED KEY IN IGNITION - The ID for the ignition key transponder currently in the ignition lock cylinder is already programmed into SKREEM memory.

[@chuckorsburn4452]

Wow

[@derekknox7722]

Thank you man, worked for my 2004 5.9. Left the lights on all night, drained both batteries which sent the truck into “theft” or “security” mode. Charged both batteries but still couldn’t get it to start so i tried what you showed here and it worked

[@kimprisbrey368]

Chrysler should be sued for their bull shit systems.........

[@danfuller9196]

More like their inferior products that have defect after defect....

[@efrainsolis1484]

I had the same problem with my truck After watching a tons of video This one was the one that work on my truck .... I really appreciate this .... thanks so much

[@OVI-Wan-Kenobi-8]

You also got to do the traditional Indian rain dance before starting the truck, might as well throw that in as well lol

[@alieshabeaver6332]

9.9999miles 9 th

[@TheFedExMan702]

I got my truck running after watching this video.

[@Rick-ci7ne]

Thanks, you got me thinking. My truck, 06 Ram 5.7, had a no crank issue. I leave my seatbelt plugged in all the time to keep it from dinging. I dont wear it. Its been this way for years but yesterday it set off the anti theft system. After watching your video I unplugged the belt and it fired right up.

[@chancedickerson2897]

I wonder how many people you have saved so much time for. I have been fighting my 06 for 2 months trying to figure out why I had a no crank no start, I did lose a key a lil while before it stopped cranking so I only had one key. This fired her up. Thank you!

[@joshandsageyoureupnow2722]

This video saved my ass today. I have a 2500 5.9 L diesel but the method still worked. Fuse was labeled PCM and it was number 23 but yeah I took it out for two minutes fired right up.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey Josh, glad it helped! Also, don't forget your key fobs, if the batteries are low, swap them out asap! They could also cause issues. Recently, mine would only lock and unlock my truck when I held the keys against the door! Just a matter of time before the keys won't register because they were dead!

[@joshandsageyoureupnow2722]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey that’s the issue. I don’t have key fobs. I bought the truck used on a saturday lost the keys in Portland on Sunday. Had to get one cut in a parking garage downtown. For some reason a standard type of key you would find in a 1995 worked in my ignition. It was not cooperative and had trouble finding the right grooves but I’ve just been leaving it in. I keep the other one in the door because the dog has a habit of locking me out of the truck. Never had an issue until I disconnected the battery and cleaned the terminals and studs this past Tuesday. Ever since them p it happens every time I completely shit the truck off, exit, shut the door and walk away. After I get about 10 feet away I hear it arm itself and then I immediately pop the pre-propped hood and disconnect bot + and one neg, pull fuse 23 and problem solved. It might be a coincidence or some how the cleaner shorted something out? This truck is solid and have had no issues aside from this. I hope I’m not looking at a New PCM investment. It’s an easy install but they’re not exactly cheap.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

@@joshandsageyoureupnow2722 Hey bud! Sorry to hear about your keys. The good news, our trucks are difficult to steal. My Advice, you NEED key FOBS! My FOB was broken, I ordered one from Amazon for 10 and I used a dremel to cut it myself, then I transferred the key fob circuit board into the new key and it works awesome! Without a proper working key fob, you WILL have problems! I don't mean to JINX you at all, but you may be stuck again in the future. Head to a Dodge Dealer and order a NEW FOB (they will connect a machine to your OBD2 port and program the FOB to your truck). Go to Dodge and spend the 180 to 300. This is something, regular locksmiths CAN'T do. Regular locksmiths CAN only make you a key, ONLY if they have the right scan tool and you already have one good, working master key FOB. Funny thing, my truck doesn't auto arm itself at all. Are you SURE someone else did not add an aftermarket alarm to the truck? Check under the steering column to see if they did. IF they did add an aftermarket alarm, you might have one good key/key fob somewhere under your dash. In Order to have a good working AFTERMARKET alarm, they take one original key fob, place it inside a box that is taped to the steering column somewhere, then a wire (sensor Wire) is ran to the key sensor by the ignition. This is the magic trick on getting an aftermarket alarm to disarm the ignition kill from the factory. My truck came with one when I bought is used, I ripped it out and used that FOB. I mentioned to check for it becasue you stated your truck will auto ARM Itself. Today, I have my factory dodge alarm and key fob, it works amazing, but it will not auto arm itself likes yours does! also, have a wonderful new year!

[@DavidDiazXchangefd]

Was your truck dead like no even light?

[@_astralxinfluenced_2799]

*EDIT: Boys & girls... She's fixed. Replaced both my rear doors' wiring harness (a notorious issue for these trucks, though I've never personally read them affecting the alarm), & now all my rear components work, & NO MORE random ass alarms. Holy shit... There's so many "answers"; some of them easy, most of them not. Haven't tried it all yet either, but damn, it's like lookin for a needle in a haystack it seems. 05 Ram 2500 alarm just started randomly goin off today. Here's what I've tried: opened & closed all the doors again, put the truck in gear, then back in Park (to eliminate the "Out of Park" possibility), swapped the batteries on my daily fob & completely removed the batts from the backup fob (I read that dead/dying batts in 1 or more of the fobs can cause it), & lastly cleaned up the innards of my daily fob. Truck locks/unlocks with my fob no problems, but after just a min or 2 of locking it, the alarm goes off. A simple push of the unlock stops the alarm, but now I can't lock my shit without fixing/bandaid-ing the issue(s). Things I've yet to try/points of interest: I haven't messed with the fuse box yet, but I have 2 fresh batts under the hood, pulled my FCM on the side of my fuse box not long ago & cleaned the contacts (which I also pulled every fuse at that time & inspected/replaced them). I also read that there's a fuse that dealerships remove for transport of the vehicle, which could at any point become unseated & cause the issue (perhaps the same fuse in the vid?), saw 1 guy mention his gauge cluster went bad which caused it, & my final hunch is the rear doors' wiring harnesses. Well known problem there, where wires become severed in the loom which has already killed the window motors, intermittent speaker function, & when you open the rear doors, the interior lighting doesn't come on. Already planned on swapping out the harnesses anyhow cause I want to be able to roll my windows down, & the longer I put it off, the more shit I'll lose. I'll report back if replacing the rear door harnesses fix it.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI, I imagine by now you got your truck running? For a faster text/message or help, reach out to me on facebook! facebook.com/StreetWrenchMonkey/ SEAT BELT! Dodge added the seat belt wires to the ECU/SKRIM/Alarm kill. Leave the driver side seat belt plugged in of follow my video within 15 seconds to plug the seat belt in, open close doors etc..... FUSE, It might be the same one, Im not sure what dealerships do. I've never worked for one and heck if I had to transport the truck, I would just let it be factory settings. the FUSE IS THE IOD FUSE. it resets the SKRIM/KEY Detection unit. reset that by removing and reinstalling. there is no need to unplug the MAIN truck batteries. REAR door harness would not affect the alarm. I tested that theory before, same thing happened to me, wires severed and killed everything I had to re wire it on my turck. Did you ever find a harness? I just made my own, added about 8 inches of wires. it was difficult trying to snake them through the factory, rubber wire protector, but i got it done. I wanna go in there and upgrade my speaker wires, I think I'll just remove that rubber boot lol.

[@_astralxinfluenced_2799]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey My whole deal is that the fob never stopped working. When the alarm triggers, pushing "unlock" on the fob stops it. It's an issue with the truck somewhere. Either a faulty door switch, compromised wiring, etc. As far as the rear doors, I'll still be replacing their harnesses, just got a couple off Amazon. Have a hard time wrapping my head around what you said with the rear doors... Cause I'd really hope that if *any of my locked doors get opened, while the alarm's engaged, that it triggers it. Still gonna try the fuses, but as for the whole seatbelt business, seems to me like that's for if your fob loses comms with the unit; not my case. 🤷🏽

[@_astralxinfluenced_2799]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey Tried the fuses today with no luck. Pulled a 30A fuse for my FCM & a 15A fuse for the SKIM; left em both out for at least 30 min. Alarm still randomly triggers.

[@_astralxinfluenced_2799]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey Hey man, edited my comment. Just so happened to be the rear door harnesses, & they are tied into the alarm system. All gravy now. 😎

[@eunosmedia90]

I usually wiggle the the door lock switch back and forth and it fixes it😂

[@Happy4Go2Lucky]

On my 2001 Jeep grand Cherokee I had a dead battery after two years and I accidentally remove the positive cable thinking it was the negative cable and some kind of pump started coming on like the ABS pump. Anyway something caught on fire -there was smoke coming out of the fuse box. Well I got a new battery, got everything hooked up and the security Key light came on the dashboard. Thank you for your comment about pulling fuse for PCM. It looked OK till I got a magnifying glass and sure enough there was a break in the wire. I put a new fuse in and everything is working. Somehow a dead battery and then re-charging it it had a short in it somewhere that fried that fuse. Thank God it was just a fuse. Now the SKIM recognizes my key.

[@fasstta]

A dodge tech gave me this info in about 2007. I think this might be the work around if your a DIY and do not have Chrysler or a proper scan tool. Disconnect battery or batteries If you have diesel, remove each batteries negative first then positive, after both batteries disconnected. I wait about 10 minutes then short both negative and positive cables at each battery together for 10 minutes. If 10 minutes does not work do it again but for a longer time I have heard for hours but 10 minutes has worked for me. I saved red and black plastic battery terminal storage caps and put them on for safety. Reconnect positive first then negative. I have an 03 diesel and this has worked every time.

[@SquarebodyTruckCamper]

Thanks for posting this video. I read thru most of the comments and between the video and comments tried to fix my issue, but have not had any success. This is where I'm at: 2006 2500 5.9L. Changed water pump after sitting broken for 3 months (I unplugged the sensor in the air box and the plug on the alternator during the water pump replacement and plugged them back in once water pump was in). Once water pump was replaced, went to start it up to test it and found out batteries were stone cold dead (less than 1 volt). I had new batteries ready and installed them. Truck fired right up and shut down after 3-5 sec. Did this 3-4 times and it now just cranks. If ignition is on, the theft red light blinks constantly. I also noticed when the truck isn't going to start because of this issue, the intake heater/glow plug light doesn't come on, which never happened before. I cleaned all battery posts, terminals, and lugs at terminals very well. Tried to start, same problem. I cleaned main power feed lug connection at TIPM. Tried again, same problem. I flipped TIPM upside down, unplugged all plugs, contact cleaned them, then dielectric greased all connections, plugged em all back in, reinstalled. Tried to start, same problem. Then I found your video, unplugged number 11 fuse for 2 min, plugged fuse back in, slammed hood, lock on key fob 1 time, unlock on key fob 1 time, open door, plug in driver seat belt, get in and shut door, put key in and try and start truck....no start, same problem. Then I tried your other tip: plug in battery tender, leave number 11 fuse plugged in, open door, plug in seat belt, put key in ignition and turn on, left door open and waited 1 hour, after 1 hour I unhooked battery tender, shut hood, got in truck, shut door, tried to start......no start, same problem. I have 2 orignial keys that have always worked in my truck, until now. Any help would be appreciated.

[@loganmosburg3479]

Ever get it fixed if so how?

[@SquarebodyTruckCamper]

@@loganmosburg3479 nope. Truck is still sitting broke down. Been working on other projects.

[@xlargetophat]

​@@SquarebodyTruckCamper ever do a reset? Terminals together for four hours

[@SquarebodyTruckCamper]

@@xlargetophat i did try and unhook both batteries and then connect the positive to negative cables. I don’t think it was for 4 hours, only a few min. But it did not fix the problem. The truck is still down, I’ve been working on other projects and driving other vehicles. Thanks for comment.

[@chrisemerson4931]

Worked first time on my 05 cummins , with aftermarket alarm/autostart! Thanks for the hack man, easy process 🤩

[@chrisemerson4931]

For the Cummins it was fuse location 51 💫

[@DavidDiazXchangefd]

@@chrisemerson4931 what model and year are you talking about here. ? I have the same problem but my is 2500 manual transmission ‘04

[@danielcarrillo4894]

Had this happen to me today. Tried these tips with no success. Also unplugged battery for 15min. Ended up being : Battery terminals were dirty. Cleaned them, and cleaned battery ports with wire brush and sand paper until shiny. Anti theft turned off and fired up 2002 Dodge 1500 Ram

[@fasstta]

A dodge tech gave me this info in about 2007. The tech called this a hard reset. I think this might be the work around if your a DIY and do not have Chrysler or a proper scan tool. Disconnect battery or batteries If you have diesel, remove each batteries negative first then positive, after both batteries disconnected. I wait about 10 minutes then short both negative and positive cables at each battery together for 10 minutes. If the 10 minutes does not work you may need to repeat for longer time I have heard for up to a couple hours. I saved red and black plastic battery terminal storage caps and put them on for safety. Reconnect positive first then negative. I have an 03 diesel and this has worked every time.

[@gindipig]

Dude you are awesome, after days of internet search and video watching you truly saved the day. Thank you so much for posting this and saving me a ton...03 durango rt and this is the only procedure that worked... thank you sir

[@DiabolicalDesigns]

I'm back...I replaced the ECM and I my dash is working much better now. I have oil pressure, shows I have gas, all that good stuff. However, the truck will only start and run for one sec and shut off due to the SKIM. It would just crank no start last time. I did use a programmer for my key fob. No change. I have a grey key. I did the link you sent for removing the door panel locking sensor or whatever. Still nothing. Pulled fuses, battery, etc...and still starts for a second and dies immediately. Always the same amount of time when it starts. It doesn't vary.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey Welcome back. Ok it sucks we cant just swap an ecu in these truck and we are good. If a new uncoded (or specifically flashed Engine Control Unit/Module) is fitted it will see that there is a security code from the immobilizer/security module or from the wiring to the receiver from around the ignition barrel and say 'Oh we have security protocols what's the code?' If you change the keys, instrument cluster, ECU/PCM or immobilizer module, or skim ariel you will have to reprogram everything. The gauge cluster, pcm, and skim module (key box&key) must all agree and have all the same vin programmed into them. if you had all three, the skim would never even know it's been moved! If you have the key, module and pcm, they can and will program the gauge. But if you have access to a drbIII you can reprogram the VIN with the computer in the car if you wanted to! The Key fob has nothing to do with the skim. the chip is in the key. Once the 'sentry' feature is activated on a ECU/PCM, it can not be 'de-activated', but it can be changed or made blank ready for a new car. However if a car has had the immobilizer and the sentry system removed including the SKIM ariel around the barrel, and an uncoded ECU/PCM is fitted it will work without the need of a skim and the immobilizer or the need to be programmed regardless of staged or stock cluster, the TCU does not store any SKIM info, so you do not need to send it to be flashed or replaced Option 1, find a brd111 tool and reprogram the vin to the ecu with your key. Option 2, find a shop online, ship them your ecu and tell them to reprogram that ecu to remove skim checking... the. install an after market alarm to control the door lock. option 3, tow your truck to dodge and pay them to reprogram the vin to the ecu and key. i wish there was a way to wire in relays or resistors to trick the system but its all programmed INTO the ecu to trigger and check for skim/security key

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

IDEA, you do your own work like i do. Use a credit card, buy an XTOOL DRB3 tool from amazon, use it to reprogram your truck and return it. Amazon has a no bullshit return policy and you can return it for your money back, as no longer needed. Or keep it, and start a business locally. not a lot of people offer this as a service. google how to reprogram ram 3500 with drb3 or how to reprogram dodge key with xtool.... check this out: www.amazon.com/XTOOL-Automotive-Programming-Diagnostic-Suspension/dp/B098N91FPR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3ABWD6EPQ4U74&keywords=xtool+key+programmer&qid=1658718685&sprefix=xtool+key%2Caps%2C343&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.ac2169a1-b668-44b9-8bd0-5ec63b24bcb5

[@junglediscgolf]

Having this problem with my 2006 Dodge Dakota and I cannot find which fuse I'm supposed to pull. Any help would be tremendously appreciated

[@melinageofashion]

Love it the way present it! Simple am smart

[@twinnrexx4228]

Dude, you rule! Thank you.

[@Rclinage2348]

I got the same problem but I don’t have the sensor under the seat for your seatbelt Can it still work with out that. Problem solved it was one of my grounds broke off once I replace that ground it fixed my problem if u have the same problems check all the grounds on your truck once’s broke off or loose

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

What year is your truck?

[@Rclinage2348]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey I fixed my problem it was a ground on the truck it was the one by the drive side frame

[@Rclinage2348]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey and my truck is a 06

[@Rclinage2348]

Well I got the same problem again grounds didn't fix it this time

[@chuckorsburn4452]

Yes I am buying it threw a car lot. It came with out a battery in the key fob.i went to get a battery to put in it and nothing happened. I just don't want to mess up my truck but it would be cool to have an alarm or electric lock threw my key tho. and yes I love uscca. it's always good to have that insurance just in case with all the crazy stuff going on now days. I'll check you out on u tube

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey, sorry man busy with life, well did you buy it? If yes, you need to get that fob registered asap. Was it a factory fob or aftermarket? When I bought my red monster, the the factory fob didnt work. but it also had an aftermarket alarm installed with no fob. My alarm tripped, dam truck was stuck in my driveway for a week; I made this video. I uninstalled the aftermarket alarm, took the factory key out of the bypass box, put a battery in that and bam, had one good working key with a factory fob. My advice, get a working factory fob asap, IF your master alarm trips, your truck will never disarm and unlock (unless you have that factory fob). I'll share a link to my firearm channel in a few days, need to post up a video or to and get it going.

[@lst4962]

2006 5.9 2500 . Dreaded security light.. cranks but security immobilized fuel pump.Tried your fix and it didn't work. tried to learn the key.. didn't work. any other thoughts?

[@tonybedford8934]

Have same issue

[@SquarebodyTruckCamper]

I have the same truck and am in the same boat as lst4962. My truck is down, so frustrating.

[@user-wc7ns4mu9v]

Good video

[@xlargetophat]

Tap my head, spin around 3 times then touch nose.

[@davidmurray1187]

Great job! Thanks for the info.

[@Platinumtag]

While the truck running unplug the anti theft module best way to permanently delete it.

[@00vTv00]

Car alarms are ridiculous, obnoxious, pointless, foolish, insane, and need to be removed quickly for your sanity.

[@gozlin4313]

You rock here I go to try it. Will let you know. Mines a 2005. Grrrr

[@th3hunt3r99]

It worked bro?

[@gozlin4313]

It worked thank you so much.

[@gozlin4313]

When your truck dies it's one thing but when it shuts down due to anti theft it shuts down hard and fast. It's crazy.

[@th3hunt3r99]

@@gozlin4313 all right dude thanks, I have the same problem and Im going to try it tomorrow hope it work for me too, mine is a 2003

[@gozlin4313]

@@th3hunt3r99 yes and I've not had any problems since. I always kept my seat belt locked in because I dont wear one. I believe that was what maybe triggered it. I actually stumbled on to this video Thank God because I was stuck in the rain trying to turn in a place no one could get around me I was pissed.

[@chuckorsburn4452]

That's a lot of crap to go threw. I got the same problem

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey, I know it is, I guess only good thing out of their security system is, you know it wont get stolen unless it is towed. Did you get your truck disarmed? Let me know if you need any Help, also love the ICON-PIC, I myself am a USCCA member! In fact I started another channel called Black Armory; working on some vids to upload.

[@chuckorsburn4452]

Caint find you on black armory

[@fercholopez1746]

Nailed it just great..!

[@DiabolicalDesigns]

I have 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L and I did the fuses you told another gentleman in a comment 17,19,20. And one more…or whatever they were. Then I followed the directions: shut hood, lock/unlock, belt click, and start truck…fired right up. Dash lights worked properly. I think abs and something else may have still been on though but gauges all worked fine. 5 seconds later…truck killed itself. Check engine light flashed and then stayed on. Then it went back into lock down mode…what advice do you have because I’m back to square one again.

[@DiabolicalDesigns]

When I hold the odometer for a few seconds I get the code "hr9999"

[@DiabolicalDesigns]

I replaced the battery in my key fob as well.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hi, ok a lot of people are saying your truck did not have an alarm from the factory. take your vin, go to dodge service, ask them to pull it up for free and tell u if the truck came with a factory alarm. if NO, swap out the aftermarket alarm unit, they usually last 2 to 5 years and is probably faulty. if YES, your truck did have a factory alarm. the driver or passenger side door lock actuator which is connected to the lock cylinder, which is connected to your factory alarm is faulty. read this site on how to jump it or resolve it www.justanswer.com/dodge/dpezk-alarm-will-not-shut-off-its-2002-dodge-ram-1500.html in regards to odb code 9999, its a can bus disconnect error, remove your instrument cluster, physically clean the wires, unplug it, use a wire brush to clean the plug contacts and wires, use dieelectric grease inside the plug conctacts and reinstall. do the same to your ecu/pcm, do the same to your trucks tipm. then reinstall the battery and try again. the can bus system in the truck is not atta hed to the alarm system at all, but if the can bus detects a short ir something not working, then your alarm system will fail

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Im on vaca and traveling i may not respond faster.... what kind of fob does your truck have? what name? what serial number? tech ically you should be able to use the key in the driver door, turn the key unlock twice fast to disarm your system. or the steps you took should disarm your system. my advice, clean the instrument cluster wires connectors, tipm and ecu pcm wires and connectors to fix the hr9999 can bus error. hr9999 means error detect keep diagnosing... it does not related to say fault densor or faulty trans or faulty oil switch etc.... but the truck should not give any codes... clear that up first. then take your vin to dodge, find out if the truck had a factory alarm. if not, take apart the dash by the gas pedals and find the after market alarm unit, bypass it with the button or unug it or remove it, get a new alarm u it. if your truck has a fatcory alarm let me know please. so, fix can bus error, tell me about the fob, tell me what dodge says about your vin and alarm unit i will try my best to help.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

sorry for my spelling errors, trying to type from a phone on a youtube website and its crap

[@billcat1840]

Mine occasionally does this at random. I have to get out shut door and lock and unlock it. Then it cranks....seatbelts? They think thieves won't use the seat belt?🤣

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

lol man i get it. My truck won't fire up to disarm the sentry/security mode unless i do thr seatbelt trick. afterwards its a ok. plus im curious if these trucks can be stolen without a factory key? im thinking your key fob might need a new battery? maybe it times out dead batt/causing your alarm to trigger, or your wireless unit is starting to fry.

[@keith2860]

i had my tipm rebuilt, when i reinstalled it set off all my dash lights including the red security light although it was just solid no flashes. i pulled the fuse but didnt know about the door locks and within 15 seconds. looks like im having the same issue too bad i sent my tipm back for more repair.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

I made another video on how to buy the right TIPM. Also, wht to do and how to install a tipm. When you get your REBUILT TIPM, you CANNOT just turn the key to start it. WRONG. You have to allow your truck and wireless scrim/key unit to reprogram itself to your key. It has been a month, is your truck running? i will find the link and post on how to install a TIPM and how to avoid issues.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Anywho, i couldn't find it. After you install the TIPM and AFTER you attach your batteries. You are suppose to UNLOCK your truck, leave a window down (so you don't lock the key in the cabin). Insert the key into the ignition, Turn the key once to the first click (ON) NOT pre-run (pre-run is when all the dash lights are lite) LEAVE the key in the ignition switch and walk away. Let it sit there for 5 minutes. It allows the wireless key module to relearn and redetect the key fob. After 5 minutes, come back turn everything off, set the alram, then unlock the truck, put the key in and fire it up! I was told/Taught, after your batteries are dead, or you install new batteries or a TIPM reinstall, you HAVE to do this 5 minutes LEARNING method. Without is you will have issues. I have had to jump my truck before and I let it sit for 5 mins with jumper cables attached before I fired it up.

[@keith2860]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey yea i sent it back and received it they had admitted to making a mistake and they corrected it, i threw it in the truck and turned the key for 12 seconds to on, then cranked it and it fired right up. thank you for the reply though i appreciate it man.

[@brianzielinski2656]

Worked on my 14 2500 cummins unreal

[@jimsxray]

Will this work for a 2003 Ram 1500 5.9L gas?

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey, maybe, do you have a fob? like a key and a fob all in one unit or just a key and thr fob is seperate? thr catch is with dodge keys that are not fobs.... for your 2003 it still has a transponder built into it. let me know what kind of key setup you have.

[@billyjones9045]

Oh my God I remember this video saving my ass like a year or so ago and I got the same problem now because I didn't go get a new key.. hopefully it works again this is too time

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey, how did it work with a new key? What I did was (lol laugh your ACE off at me being a brown redneck hahaha) I ordered a key from amazon for 10 bucks. taped it to my original broken plastic case key, used my dremel and in 20 minutes, cut a new key.... and swapped the circuit board from old key fob to new one and bam that worked. did you loose your key? I remember reading if you have someone cut a new key from VIN it needs to be programmed to your truck with a scanner tool. aka get the fob programmed to the truck!

[@Texas_DZL]

This won’t work 😢

[@hivmonster]

Could you tell me more about your symptoms? I have the same truck in the same year. Security light flashes in the on position. I turn it on, the truck turns over, idles rough, water in fuel light is active, then the truck turns off. If a door is open the horn will honk when it shuts down. Did you experience any of that?

[@randymack1234]

I tried your method on my 08 dodge 2500 diesel. Hasn't worked yet. I'm going to try again tomorrow . This time standing on one foot lol. My red light is solid not blinking. what caused mine to fault was I tried to start truck and my key battery was dead. tried my other key that had a good battery and it didn't work either . Tried a bunch of other cures listed online. No luck. Any other ideas besides having it towed to a dealer ?

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

hey, sorry for late reply. busy with life. Sounds like your key unlearned itself temp from the wireless key module. because your light is solid and you fob battery was dead. try this method to have it redetect. pop thr hood, reset iod fuse on my 07 its fuse 11. reset by popping it out, wait 5 mins reinstall this will reset the wireless key detector. attach a battery tender/charger to your truck. then use the fob to lock, then unlock, leave your seat belt attached, place the key in the ignition, turn it all the way on, that setting after acc.... manually turn your radio off, your truck should be fully on, minus the engine running. your dash fully powered, all windows powered, now leave your driver window cracked or down. get out and walk away. close your door. come back in an hour, open the door, close it, leave seat belt plugged in. lock, unlock, open door, close door and start it. the method i mentioned here, by have the fob sit in the ignition, woth all power on minus the enginer running, forces the wireless senson in thr ignition lock to redetecr and relearn your fob signal. so i have been trained by a tech! try that and let me know

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Man sorry for my typos, replying from my phone. i will use a laptop tomorrow to clean uo my message.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

you have a remote starter or aftermarket alarm system?

[@randymack1234]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey No remote starter or aftermarket alarm . it's the Laramie package. I have't had a chance to work on it . We just had hurricane Sally . I live near Pensacola, and we just got our power back on tonight . The internet has been down too. Got trees down and limbs everywhere . Now if I can just get my truck to crank. Thank's for your help !

[@Florida239]

Can you just disarm the stupid ass security system with a fuse or something I have and 06 2500 Cummins and I’d like to just get rid or bypass that security bullshit

[@uainttheone]

I spent hours reading and watching videos

[@roderickarina]

Thank you very much.

[@DannyMerida7]

I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 slt. No way to start my truck. Everything shutoff in dashboard. Idk what to do. 😞 the alarm is bothering my neighbors. I have to desconect the battery to make it stop 🚨pls any idea 💡

[@michaelmcewan5074]

I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 with an aftermarket Viper security system that I bought used. The the fob stopped working a few months back so I replaced the battery in it and it still didn’t work. Now if the truck sits for a few days the red security light is on and the battery is dead. Sometimes I can jump the battery and it will start. Now it will start when I jump it but then immediately turn off as soon as I let off the gas. My issues sound similar to yours. I’ll try your method and see what happens. Any other advice? Thanks for the video!

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey Mike! To help, we both need to understand how YOUR system works. Catch 36, your truck now has 2 alarm systems fighting each other. Factory dodge/ecu-ignition kill and the Viper system. The viper system, should have came with a addon box. This box is a wireless skrim bypass. Usually, most shops place a FACTORY spare key in this box, the box is then wired to the viper and to the wireless key sensor unit in the steering column. When you hit unlock on the viper FOB, the viper system tells the viper addon box to send a signal to the wireless skrim sensor unit in the steering column, (HEY TRUCK, KEY IN IGNITION, BY PASS KILL), then you can use your key and everything is fine. catch is you can also use a screw driver to start the truck with the viper fob... lol again the viper fob tells truck to disarm. IF you wired the viper yourself and did NOT use this addon. You now have 2 systems fighting each other, but the factory alarm unit is KING and will not disarm your truck. FIX? If you have that viper addon box (which you SHOULD HAVE), find it, open it up, take the truck key/fob out of it, open that key and swap that battery. That key battery prob. Failed and the viper unit can’t dis arm the truck/ via sending a signal to the ignition kill in the steering column. Once that has a new battery, start over; truck should be fine. IF you do not have that viper addon unit, unplug the viper. Yes unplug the wire harness or remove the viper system (if you installed the system yourself, remove it). If a SHOP installed the viper system…… oh man, just unplug the harness. Take the truck back to the factory spec. Now take your FOB/Key, swap the batteries in it, follow the instructions in my video, seat belt, arm, disarm, within 15 seconds get your ass in slam door and your truck will start. THEN, reinstall the viper and continue with life. Don’t bother removing your battery, in our trucks, the ecu kill is on, you can have the battery unplugged for 2 weeks, plug it back in and you are right where you started, no start. You SHOULD attach a battery tender to your truck. If you remove the viper, you have a good working factory fob, your skrim might just need to re-detect the key, at the end of my video I explained how to do this manually without a scan tool. Turn truck on, full acc, full power, leave key in ignition, battery tender on for an hour or 2. The key signal will eventually catch and your truck will REMEMBER your key. Then go again to get it started. Sorry, but having the viper system AND the factory system in a situation like this causes problems. Let me know what you have done and I can try to offer more advice.

[@jeffdahms3712]

Thank you!

[@mikebro420]

You know if this would work on a 02 Ram 1500 4.7L 4x4? Not diesel

[@mariacoron7591]

Our 2003 Dodge Ram went into anti theft can’t find the fuse you mentioned

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI........ on a 2002 to 2004 SOME dodge trucks. Fuse # 17 (Controls door lamps, fuel pump relay,. over head display cargo lamp AND THE SENTRY KEY IMMOBILIZER UNIT) 15 AMP FUSE FUSE in #17 for 2005 = Fuel Pump Relay 20AMP FUSE FUSE #19 2002 to 2003 = SENTRY KEY IMMOBILIZER 10AMP FUSE FUSE #19 2004-2005 = Trailer Tow connector 20AMP FUSE FUSE #20 2002 to 2004 = IGNITION SWITCH 25AMP FUSE FUSE #28 2002 - 2004 = DOOR LOCK SWITCH + CLUSTER + MIRRORS 10AMP FUSE SINCE you have a 2003 and dodge mixed everything up between these years, I recommend. pull fuse 17, 19, 20 and 28. yes pull them all, wait 5 minutes and plug all of those FUSES back in and you immobilizer plus door locks will reset.

[@chrisx742]

A few months ago I had a no start, no crank situ on my 07 HEMI. When I turn the key, the red bullet light would come on. Sent TIPM out for test and rebuild, they didn't detect any issues. Tried lots of things, wouldn't start. Had the truck battery disconnected and on a tender. Terminals tied together. Went back a few weeks later, thought maybe battery connection was bad, installed new battery terminals, and truck started right up. Truck ran without issue for a couple months. A few days ago start got locked out again, I dont think its the TIPM. The red bullet light comes on whenever I try to start, no crank. Is that security immobilizer? (Its not flashing, just solid when I turn the key.) If I know that its the immobilizer thats stopping it from starting, maybe I can figure it out.

[@chrisx742]

Hey, just wanted to say this got my truck started. Just sitting in the truck with the seatbelt engaged with key in ON position for five minutes, and then it turned over. IDK whats going on, but its working now. Thanks!

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

@@chrisx742 Yo Chris, appreciate you posting man! The seat belt is the funny trick in my 06 that worked. but after reading what you went through........... it should not have taken 5 minutes of the seat belt being plugged in. should have been instant, like a few seconds. Remember our trucks are OLD. parts are old! The key/key fob is a radio signal that always checks in wirelessly with the wireless module in our trucks.... You may have this issue again. you should check and change your key fob battery every 3 to 6 months (YES, a stronger signal will help our trucks not lock out). OR there is a metal key ring that is installed on the key cylinder on the steering column, the key HAS to be within 1/4 of that, OR sitting fully in the ignition, for the system to detect the key and disarm.... to allow you to start the truck. im not saying go nuts and start swapping out parts, but if the key sensor is old and cant detect the key, swap it! or maybe, even through your key is still working, bro, spend the 200 at a dealer and get a brand new key like i did, a new key with a new circuit board will help!

[@kymreiss]

Hi, having a similar crisis! 2006 Dodge 2500 diesel. 5.9l I Would like to run this by you before attempting your procedure to see if it will work . I accidentally put the wrong key into the ignition. The truck of course didnt start. Then put the correct key and it didnt start. Disconnected battery, reconnected and it started. For a day. Then quit again! I have seen the battery disconnect trick to reset ECU and control modules. But maybe the antitheft has locked out? I dont actually have an alarm. Your thoughts?

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI, So.... is your key the original and it worked for....... as long as you owned the truck? If Yes, you are in luck, you have to allow the key sensors to re-establish a connection to your key. I placed these instructions towards the end of my video, Buy a brand new keyfob battery (YES, a brand new battery strengthens the signal of your key). Plug your seat belt in Reset your IOD FUSE Windows down Put a battery tender on your truck so your batteries will not die. unlock the truck with the key using the buttons (if it doesnt then you have more problems stop) insert the key in the ignition. Turn the key to full ACC (this is the one step right before you turn one more time to start the truck). Let it sit there for an hour or 2. Turn off your radio, ac and stuff What happens is, EVENTUALLY the wireless key sensor will re-learn your original master key that is already vin programmed to match your truck. it takes time to relearn, its not fast or smart and its a wireless code hop. 1 or 2 hours later, unplug the battery tender. turn the truck off. use the FOB to unlock the truck, ensure your seat belt is plugged in, hop in and start it within 15 seconds. let it idle...... DOES THE RED SECURITY LIGHT TURN OFF OR BLINK? If it turns off you are all set, dont do it again, its retarded special and didnt like the other key. If the light is BLINKING let me know and dont drive it, you will get stuck somewhere. Again.... is your key the original and it worked for....... as long as you owned the truck?

[@kymreiss]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey hi thank you! Yes i have ONE original key and the other is a replacement key that was made and it doesnt have a fob. Also do all 06 Dodge have the red security light? I havent seen it. I dont have an alarm.

[@nelsonnunez2844]

Thanks for saying me time and money god bless

[@girlofchrist7954]

Hey ! I’m having similar issues , I went to the store. Came back. Car wouldn’t start. The red flashing light came on , car wouldn’t start. Nothing. Someone came help , they said it was the battery. It was loose , they pulled the wires off the battery and put it back on and it started. we came home. The very next day , I went to start it. It wouldn’t. It had the same exact red light blinking again. We tried calling locksmith , they came. But said we needed the original key , but we lost it. We have the second key that came with the orginal key. So unfortunately we were unlucky with the lock smith. We had to unhook the battery because now the alarm keeps going off for no reason. We tried to unlock and lock the door to see if it works. Nothing. Tried the panic button doesn’t work. The car won’t start so idk what is wrong. Plsssss if any advice pls help 😢🙏

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI, Our trucks are impossible to steal, you can't hotwire them. The original FACTORY key, MAIN KEY, is electronically coded to a physical ring called a key sensor that sits inside the steering column at the actual LOCK. When you put the key in, the ring/key sensor, senses the Key and send a signal to the immobilizer box (factory unit) to dis engage the ecu kill and ignition kill. You got lucky the truck worked for a while on the spare key. But now since the immobilizer is triggered. You may not be able to dis engauge. Leave the battery unplugged. the ECU and Ignition kill has been activated, there's nothing you can do to dis enguage it unless you have the right key, coded to your truck. Question, is your current key a CLICK FOB? if it FAT with buttons built into it? Can you use it to wireless unlock the truck? If the spare key you have is just a spare and not an electronic fob, dodge gave it to you as a spare to unlock the truck doors and thats it, you are not suppose to use it to start the truck and drive around. The fix, is, theres a chance my method COULD work if that spare key is electronic, with alarm buttons to lock and unlock the turck. if it is not. You need to call legit dodge dealers in your town, ask them how much to reprogram a key to your truck. Tow your truck there and they will do it. Cost will be 200 to 500 bucks. What they do is, CUT a new key, the attach a computer/device to your trucks obd2 port and re-program the NEW key to the immobilizer/vin match. Regular locksmiths cannot do this UNLESS they have the right tool (take it to dodge). So hopefully you can avoid dodge, is your key electronic?

[@donaldarmstrong2500]

I have a 2001 dodge DIESEL 2500 that when trying to start my security headlights start flashing and will not start . I disconnected the batteries but still do the same once reconnected batteries

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey Don, no disrespect when I say your older truck. My old 06, did not have the ability to lock and unlock the alarm from the key cylinder in the door. Your alarm system is activated! I read here, your old truck.... someone else with an 01 diesel had the ability to LOCK and UNLOCK the alarm from the door! You have to disable your alarm, removing and reinstalling the batteries wont help! Try this, place your key, in the driver door. 2 turns to the left to lock and activate the alarm. 2 key turns (fast key turns) to the right should UNLOCK your truck, only IF your truck has the ability to activate and disarm from the door! If the key thing i mentioned did not work, then swap the batteries in your key fob, then try and lock/unlock the truck. if nothing, google the IOD Fuse for your truck, it will be different than what i mentioned in my video for the 06. let me know if anything worked and good luck! dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-tech/378360-disabling-the-factory-alarm-system-on-a-2001-ram-3500-4x4.html

[@saulmolina81]

How do I do it with a 2007 dodge nitro slt 4x4

[@CanDeePaintCanTeePaint]

I have the same problem, but the truck starts and runs. Security/headlights flashing while I drive. Dealer reset computer and new key won't program. The part they say I need is discontinued WIM Module. 2006 Dodge Durango

[@r.bridge1225]

Hi, well my post is for dodge ram trucks.... aka 1500, 2500, 3500... but i did some digging for you. its rare that part would die, was is a legit dodge dealer? or was it a legit used dealer that sells dodge? to explain, read the website about how the module works in your truck. it saves me time from typing. This part doesnt just die or break. The important part is if the w.i.m. fails, your truck would not start at all. you said your truck starts and runs? Also, for them to say the part is no longer available is bull crap. my advice, if you have the money, buy and replace the w.i.m., check and replace the t.i.p.m. (it controls all electronics in the truck), find another dodge dealer that has a programming tool to reprogram the truck, key to your v.i.n. if you wanna save money and you trust this dealer, replace the w.i.m. and try again... im out with my kids today... give me some time. tonight when i get gome ans can use a laptop instead of my cell phone ill post more info to help, i will try and find that part and post it as well. think, a dead battery and jump start shouldnt kill a car or truck right? i have doubts in this dealers diagnosis... but should not rule it out. im not there to test it physically. www.dormanproducts.com/p-135080-601-082.aspx?origin=keyword

[@CanDeePaintCanTeePaint]

@@r.bridge1225 Yes I checked Dodge does not make th any more. It's weird because my truck runs and drives but the lights are flashing and the alarm is engaged no horn though

[@max10proffit62]

did you ever get a solution? my truck is doing the exact same thing

[@randymack1234]

Well I tried numerous times now , still no luck. Can get red light to flash if I turn to start , 5 second , remove key. insert spair key 5 seconds. ect.ect.ect. any other suggestions ? no stealership close by.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Sorry, its been 4 weeks. I was out for a month. Your key isn't registered. Get some new batteries for your key, install them, connect a charger to your truck, place the key in the ignition, turn to acc and walk away for an hour. Hopefully your key fob will re sync with your wireless security unit. There is a ring/sensor on the outside of the key lock that is wired to your wireless key unit. That needs to be able to redetect your key. I read, moving the key 1/2 from it might cause it to not sense the key. It's been 4 weeks and im sorry for the late reply, what ever happened?

[@lauris4887]

Can anti theft system can be triggered by trying to remove radio without tools, now my car wont keep running for more than half second. How do i fix that?

[@billyjones9045]

As I remember with my last Dodge the alarm totally has to do with the radio. Put a new one in get my alarm to phone activate.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hi, I am so sorry for the late reply, I get like 1000 emails a days and your stuff gets lost/my notification of a post gets lost. Yes it could, because the process of working on the radio leads to the security system freaking out. Even you doing something like, turning the key really fast from off to on/acc 4 or 6 times can trigger the alarm. What I did was, I felt, ok my factory wires are low gauge and OLD. I ran a new 4 gauge power wire from the driver battery to a fuse box with fuses and relays i got from amazon for 20 bucks under my steering column. Then from that 4 gauge thick power wire and new fuse box, I ran a new clean wire to power my radio, on the relay i TOOK THE FACTORY radio power wire and used in, again on the relay to turn on the relay which now pulls power from the new 4 guage wire to power my new raido. the factory radio wife from factory harness is now my turn on/turn off radio wire the New wire I ran powers my radio. I also ran everything in cabin to clean new power, like my power inverters, my amps etc.... Heck I even ran new heavier speaker wires. SO you should follow the manufacturers instructions, unplug your batteries when you are working on the radio it helps against accidental spark, ground discharge or triggering the alarm. Yes it sucks to always run back and forth to test power, but its safer. Another thing you CAN DO, leave your drivers seat belt plugged in, leave your key in the ignition at all times, do not remove it, the ignition can be off yes, but the wireless key sensor in the truck will ALWAYS detect the key while you are working on the radio and NOT trigger the alarm as key missing. I think you inspired me to post my facebook info... lol maybe people can message me directly for a faster response? i dunno.... I wish you well.

[@eriggins40]

I don't have nothing but a valet key and have had 2 locksmiths to make a key but couldn't get them programmed..so wat do I do?

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hi, you NEED a dodge dealership. not a used dealer either. You HAVE to tow your truck to a DODGE dealer.... call there service department, let them know you need a new key and programmed, tow the truck to them, if you dont have towing, sign up for AAA or call your insurance company, add towing. dodge will and has the correct tool to reprogram the truck and key. thats the only fix. i estimate 250 to 650 in cost.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

or call local locksmiths and ask if they have a drb3 tool to reprogram keys, if they say yes, thats your best shot other than dodge dealer. if the locksmith doesnt know what drb3 tool is dont hire them. also they can jse your exsisting keys you dont need to buy another key from another locksmith. remember you need someone with a DRB3 tool. DRBIII

[@libertylandsforall4689]

Hello, What do I do, I have no key fob only the original chipped key and another that I had made from the original? HELP Also I have a 2004 Dodge RAM 1500 Truck.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI, sorry for the delay i didnt get a notification of your message. what do you mean you have "no key fob"? Your original key, IS A KEY FOB. If your original key has a transmitter built in, you have to get it powered up. Does either your original key or your SECOND key have a working transmitter (can you lock and unlock the doors with them)?

[@michaelg7862]

My ecm went bad, received a new one, installed reconnected batteries, started truck and it started than died after 3 seconds, did that twice, now won’t even turn over and security light stays solid. Any tips?

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey Mikey, Sorry that I wrote a book, just trying to explain, hoping you understand why I say it needs programming. Oh man, ok your mechanic will not want to spend the time with you, unless you spend more cash and I don't think that is right. Talk to them, explain what happened and hope they help at no charge. +++ Please tell me the Year Make Model, of your truck/car (Different years have different electronics/upgraded)? Dodge, on all dodge, chrysler, gm cars. to save money on a large scale, installs universal electronics for that year range like say 2007 to 2012 or 2001 to 2006 in their vehicles. Before the vehicle leaves the Assembly line, they reprogram whatever base (dodge ram 2006 - if the truck is a 2006) emc/skreem and whatever to match that motor/vin/setup. I learned the hardway, you cant just look at the TIPM model, SKREEM box model number or EMU/ECM model number on your truck, but the same one and plug it in. It will not work. I don’t care who tells you what, IT WON’T WORK! My proof is you are still having problems right? They ONLY way, is to contact the manufacture of your replacement product. GIVE them your vin, then they tell you where to go and what to buy, that WILL BE a plug and play application. I use DOORMAN because they supply to almost every parts store in the US. Call DOORMAN, give them your vin, they tell you WHAT TIPM to buy from ORILEY! Then bam its plug and play. With your ECM, you should have went to dodge (I assume you have a dodge truck?). They would have programmed your ECM to your SKREEM and key.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

With MY truck 2006 Ram, if I have to replace the ECM, the ECM will need to be reprogrammed by the DEALER or anyone with the ECM maps and tools. The ECM needs to be computer based programmed to register your VIN with your SKREEM (SKREEM is also programmed with your VIN). You CAN’T just install a ECM and hope it works. The DODGE dealer would take any universal ECM/SKREEM/TIPM I bought from any auto parts store and re-program them to make them work (with the VIN & serial numbers of each device). Only way around it is to buy a car/truck from 2000 and PRIOR without all these electronics and crap.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

My Advice, call your local dodge (do you have a dodge?) dealers, ask them for service department. Ask if they have the tools to reprogram an ECM and SKREEM. Some Dealers don't have it. go there and pay the money to have it done the right way from the Dealer. If you want to try it yourself I will post the instructions on the thread for all to see.... But you need to have the scan tools/computers and maps. You cant try and rent the tool from autozone, but you may end up wiping the ECM and have a dead truck/spend more to re program it. YOUR SKREEM/VIN Needs to be electronically programmed to your NEW ECM that shop installed. Ask them if they did that, if they said yes, take it back and tell them it's not working.

[@michaelg7862]

Street Wrench Monkey, Auto Crap Just got my truck back from dodge. And they reprogrammed ecm, and skim and voila. The company I purchased the ecm from didn’t program the ecm. Surprisingly the dealer only charged me $150 out the door to program keys, ecm, and skim.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

@@michaelg7862 Man I'm glad to hear it was only $150, maybe be a nice guy not a Richard and ask the other shop for some kind of credit? I think they should have known to tell you to reprogram the setup. $150, thats a good deal I avoid the dealer as much as possible (scared of cost).

[@anthonsama4786]

Too much shhht. What if I just junk it and say goodbye to dodge forever

[@billyjones9045]

That's what I was thinking I was f****** pissed... But I did exactly as he said it actually worked last year.. I'm about to try it again ... I ended up selling that truck I still regret it to this day

[@chikokosam4211]

The only lights ON on my dash is the security light hazard and door light* No power and not cranking* Do I do dis method as well?*

[@cDean-dh6bz]

Mine did this also. All I did was clean my terminal with soda and it cranked over.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hey, Something else is wrong. When the alarm/kill/security light is activated, your truck should still be able to crank/the Starter should still be able to crank. Your truck will never start and eventually the batteries will die. Unless, was there an aftermarket starter kill installed? If YES, I could be wrong. If you have the factory alarm, start to diagnose, why your starter is not working when you turn the key. Maybe the starter is dead. Or as Dean stated, his wasnt getting clean power from the cables. I made a video, it takes 15 mins to pull out the starter. You cann step on it and use jump cables from the battery to the starter to test it and see if it works/ if the starter is working when it gets power. If not, swap the starter, if yes, then you have another issue preventing the starter from working.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

This video is how to remove the starter if you need to. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGXWgqSBd51_prM

[@leogonzalez4761]

I have it the same problem with my dodge 3500 06 😔😔

[@stevenstiltner5190]

My truck just went into anti theft. I’m going to try see if this works

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI, any luck? I'm here to help, just post back what happened or what you experienced.

[@stevenstiltner5190]

Ya it didn’t work

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

@@stevenstiltner5190 @Steven Stiltner ok I can try to help, after following the instructions, is your red light on your dashboard still blinking?

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Also, when you turn the key, does your starter crank?

[@stevenstiltner5190]

Never was blinking. Just has fault code for skim key p0153 just cranks no start. When it first done it the truck would start an die after 2seconds now just cranks

[@scott8940]

& Never buy a Dodge again !

[@CanDeePaintCanTeePaint]

Happened after Battery drained and died. Any suggestions?

[@SquarebodyTruckCamper]

my 2006 2500 5.9L did the same thing after batts totally died. started and shut off 3 or 4 times. Now just cranks with no start.

[@amandamccaulley513]

how do you do this with no key fob

[@SavedbyJesusJeska]

2014 jeep compass didn't work.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hi, I'm sorry it did not work, but there maybe something else wrong with your Compass....... did you change the battery in your fob to ensure it is strong? Start there, then reset the wireless key sensor fuse.

[@ivanflores6958]

Does it work on a 1500? I replaced the battery from the key fob and now my truck went to security mode cause it didn’t recognize the key. Started 3 times and shut off within seconds then it didn’t even want to crank anymore still locks and unlocks thoe.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hi!!! Sorry for the delay, busy life with the fam over the weekend. You described 2 Issues. 1 - Security Light/Not recognize the key 2 - Didn't want to crank! Fix Issue # 2 first! Your truck, even with the security light ON........ NO start from alarm, should sound like a hyper active dog wanting to crank like its Jason Statham on CRANK when he was getting CRANKED!!!! Heck if your truck wasnt starting you should be able to drop in gear and use the starter to move the truck off the road... not recommended but YES!!! FIX THE NO CRANK ISSUE FIRST! 2 - didn't want to crank. --- Check and test your truck battery, take it out and take it to a shop for a free load test (autozone/Walmart Auto etc)..... or use a multimeter yourself, set to 12 volts. Have a friend or kid try and start the truck..... while the multi meter is attached to the battery, what does it read? LESS THAN 12 volts while the key is turned and trying to start the truck? REPLACE the battery!!!! It should be at 12 volts or higher when you are trying to turn the kjey and start the truck. --- Check and change your cables!!!! YES, change the cables to the battery, clean the battery posts, check and change the cable to the starter! IM SERIOUS! they rust out INSIDE the cable and go back. If you truck was like mine 2006 and still has 15 or 18 year old cables... its time! --- IF the truck battery is at 12 volts WHILE trungint he key and cranking.... but the truck doesnt want to CRANK! Check, test and change the STARTER!!! yes your STARTER..... I have replace the starter in my 2006 ram 3500 about 3 times in 3 years!!!! they go bad and simulate a bad battery, no crank etc.... Take the starter out and have it tested.... buy one with a free forever swap warranty like I did, so you can always swap it out every 2 to 4 years when IF it dies!!! --- Check and change any fuses in your TIPM/AKA FUSE BOX. yes!!! pull them all out, check and change each out! Just by doing this you are resetting the power connection to everything in the fuse box/TIPM, which can help! Even if there are no blown fuses!!!! --- Use jumper cables/Charge your battery if its good! 1 - Security Light/Not recognize the key --- Install a NEW key Fob Battery, YES, it gives the FOB Strong electrical power to send a signal! --- Try my methods in this video, leave the drivers side seat belt plugged in and within 15 seconds, try and disarm and start the truck! Post back if you can, What year is your truck? Also you can message me on Facebook for direct, faster response!!!! -- FACEBOOK @ facebook.com/StreetWrenchMonkey

[@ivanflores6958]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey thank you brother.🙏🏼 will keep you updated. Contacted a locksmith and mentioned it to him that the truck has no crank, no start and he mentioned that it is because of the key fob not transmitting any signal. The weird thing is that I just replaced the battery on the fob and it didn’t want to start anymore. But I’ll keep you updated fixing it this Thursday.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

HI, What Year is your truck? Asking because anyone else reading may have the same years and same issue. It could very well be the key is not reading with the wireless sensor/security system, causing the no crank. In older trucks like my 2006 that is not the case. Let me know what happens.... but ask the locksmith for a warranty as well, because if he spend his time reprogramming the key and fob to your truck and it still doesnt want to fire up; it means you may have just spent unnecessary money. BUT it happens to all of us. My trans (AUTO 48e) just started going, I spent 300 in solenoids another 100 in ATF to discover my truck needs a new transmission .Sucks for me but I bought a g56 manual to swap in and I plane on selling all the solenoids I bough to recoup some cash! aka I just shelled out 400 bucks thinking my transmission would be fixed instead of replaced or rebuilt..... sucks for me! @@ivanflores6958

[@ivanflores6958]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey 2006 dodge ram 1500 2wd 4.7L

[@ivanflores6958]

@@StreetWrenchMonkey definitely asking for warranty man thanks for the heads up

[@jamalyellowhair1841]

I got a 98 thats doing this. 5.9L

[@TylerL1221]

My batteries died and now crank no start but has code p0251

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

Hi, well....... Truck running fine, Batts die and now no start and code p0251. Code p0251 is an electrical issue/Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control "A" Malfunction. I Came across a few people, there trucks still started and drove... even with this code. So you may have another problem causing the issues. New batteries or have your old one tested for Cold Crank Amps/Start/Crank testing - lol you got the point. Technically, new batteries and if nothing is wrong with your truck, it should fire right up. Plug the seat belt in, follow my video and good to go! UNFORTUNATELY, when something goes, others things GO with it, sorry Ty, its true. Maybe something else got shorted out. "P0251 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control "A" Malfunction Symptoms Symptoms associated with a code of this type may be as minor as only a stored code and/or illuminated service engine soon lamp to as severe as a hard or no-start condition, excessive smoke from the exhaust, engine misfire, or engine hesitation especially upon acceleration. Common Causes Common causes include a dirty or clogged fuel filter, a defective fuel pump, open or shorted circuits or electrical connectors between the fuel control actuator and the PCM, or a faulty fuel control actuator driver in the PCM. Common Misdiagnosis Techs report that the injector pump or injectors are frequently replaced in error when this code is presented. More often than not, the fuel filter is at fault. Shorted or open wiring and/or connectors are also found to be defective more often than injection pumps."

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

TRY THIS, 1) New or working battery from another car/truck, My video above and see if it starts. 2) OR, Pull the lever on the fuel filter (YOU DO STILL HAVE THE FACTORY FUEL SETUP RIGHT?) - Let the canister/water drain out, this may take 10 mins. - Also its diesel/water mix, put an oil catch can or empty gallon of milk jug, dont let it go on your driveway or in the ground/fire hazard under your truck. - Then, close the lever when empty. - Properly reprime the truck, put ley in ignition and do not start truck, just turn the key and listen for the fuel pump to to work. then off, then on again, do this about 3 or 4 times, the fuel pump will refill the fuel filter and offer some pressure to the injectors. - then try and start the truck. 3) Buy some electrical parts cleaner/spray - 2 or 3 cans. - Buy some Die Electric Grease - remove all connectors on the TIPM, clean and grease them, reinstall - Do your battery cables as well for a clean connection - maybe even do the plugs to your ECU/PCM - Try to start the truck. 4)Unfortunately maybe you have another problem, aka your fuel pressure regulator is faulty or .... misbehaving, clean these connectors and test it.

[@StreetWrenchMonkey]

What is the Yea/make and model of your truck? Do not bother to mess with your injectors from this post or website...... I changed my injectors, trust me, stay away from it unless you are replacing the injectors or injector wires. Try this to check/Test the Fuel Pressure Reg. www.techshopmag.com/pulling-codes-diesel-diagnostic-trouble-code-p0251/ AND I QUOTE " When working on Cummins engines that are common-rail injected (2003 MY and up), you may experience diagnostic trouble code P0251. When working on Cummins engines that are common-rail injected (2003 MY and up), you may experience diagnostic trouble code P0251. The customer complaint is usually a loss of power when the truck is in a hard pull, especially when towing. I see this quite often at the shop. This code can be somewhat chronic if the problem is not properly diagnosed. There have been occasions where the truck has lost so much power that the customer barely made it to their destination. The check engine light comes on and the customer is aware that something is definitely wrong. When the technician checks the diagnostic codes in the ECU, it will usually display code P0251. Unfortunately, this code can be troubling because the diagnostics are so vague. The diagnostic test for this code is to check the fuel pressure regulator that is mounted on the high-pressure common-rail injection pump. The fuel pressure regulator is an actuator. The regulator is controlled by the ECU and functions to open and close in order to control fuel pressure that is produced from the high-pressure pump. The regulator is going to control how much fuel will enter the high-pressure pump to be pressurized into the common-rail that supplies the injectors. The diagnostic test is very simple. Unplug the two-wire connector of the fuel pressure regulator and check for power on the white-with-red-stripe wire. Place the test light in the pin of the connector and have someone turn on the ignition switch to the run position. The test light should come on and stay on for a few seconds and then go out. If this happens, suspect a bad regulator because the ECU function is working properly. If the test light does not come on within a period of approximately 20 seconds, then there may be a wiring issue or possible ECU problem. But beware, in order to verify the complaint, the truck will need to be taken on a test drive. If you think that the regulator is at fault, a test drive will help determine if the regulator is working properly. When test-driving the vehicle, try finding a location in which you can place significant load on the engine. You will need to have a good scan tool linked to the vehicle so the high-pressure fuel pressure can be seen while driving. While the engine is idling, the high-pressure fuel pressure should be reading somewhere in the range of 5,000 psi. Under normal cruising conditions the high-pressure fuel reading should be somewhere around 9,000 to 10,000 psi. When you accelerate under a hard-pull condition - especially a long, steep grade - the fuel pressure reading should be in the range of 23,000 psi and greater. On most occasions, when there is a vehicle that exhibits this code, the fuel pressure is reading normal ranges while idling and cruising. But, under hard, extended acceleration, the fuel pressure will come up to somewhere in the 23,000 psi range, and instead of continuing to climb, the fuel pressure starts to decline. As you continue the hard pull you’ll notice that the fuel pressure keeps declining and power starts to fall off while the truck begins to crawl. Fuel pressure at this time may be 10,000 psi or less. But, how can this be when the fuel pressure regulator looks as though it’s opening? On the scan tool make sure the duty cycle of the regulator is also monitored. You will find that the duty cycle will increase even though the pressure is decreasing. This is the reason that the ECU is throwing the code - it has commanded the regulator for more fuel pressure, but the high-pressure pump is not reaching the threshold. When the complaint has been verified it’s always a safe measure to check simple things such as the fuel supply pump. Make sure it’s supplying the correct amount of fuel to the high-pressure fuel pump and that the fuel filter is OK. The best advice is to try to find out any previous repairs that might have been made to the vehicle. I say this because I’ve found that on most occasions the vehicle has been to another shop for the same problem. Because of the vague diagnostics related to this trouble code, it’s common to see that the fuel pressure regulator has been changed along with the fuel filter with no correction to the problem. There are even cases where the high-pressure fuel pump has been changed in hopes of correcting the issue. So, here is one more check that may help in diagnosing the problem. See if there have been any injectors that have been replaced. The reason I say this is because the fuel transfer tube(s) may be the problem if one or more injectors have been replaced previously. The injectors are feed by high-pressure fuel lines that extend from the common-rail. The high-pressure fuel lines deliver fuel to the side of the cylinder head into the fuel transfer tubes. These tubes are what carry fuel from the high-pressure lines through the inside of the cylinder head and into the injector. These tubes look very similar to a heavy-duty pencil and must “marry” to the injectors."

[@LaaLooTv]

Shit i canr lock my car bc my keyfob dont work

[@brandonkiebles4501]

What’d you do about it

[@LaaLooTv]

@@brandonkiebles4501 threw the car away

[@MrMattmclaughlin13]

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