Dodge Ram Air Door repair Heater AC HeaterTreater

Video describing diagnostic process and repair for common Dodge RAM air door failures. Additional information is available at the HeaterTreater web site at www.heatertreater.net

[@insidethecomputer]

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram heat only coming out the middle vents. After looking at the service manual I started to Panic as I read how the door is replaced. Disconnect the AC, the Heat and tear apart the Dash...there was NO way I could do that I needed my defrost desperately. Using your video I was able to cut open the box and tape the door in the up position and reseal things temporarily so I had defrost while I waited for your parts to arrive. Thanks for your product, you are the BEST!

[@cHuNkIzMeTaL]

Just got done replacing re circ door. Bought it from Heater Treater for 130 shipped. Took about a hour and half. Not bad at all. Used a few tricks of the trade to make it really easy. One screw on the door motor can be a pain, but overall its really easy if you have mechanical skills.

[@cappy032]

To anybody who is having the problem where only air blows out of the vents but no defrost. Your problem is the mode 1 door is broken. I have a 2003 Dodge Ram heavy duty and I am replacing the mode 1 door because it has the problem I described above and when I took it apart like the video shows, the mode 1 door connector spins free.

[@jpk5930]

Thank you for making this video! I've been needing to do this for a few months, and now have the information I needed to get started.

[@texster68]

Removing the door leaves the external and internal intake ports open. At highway speeds air flows into the external port and directly out of the internal port...like having a window rolled down all the time. The fan doesn't have the power to overcome the air flow. No door kills AC and heat efficiency. You can block one or the other port, but it doesn't allow the computer to control the door and "dry" out condensation or maximize AC/heat. Replacing the door with the HeaterTreater kit is best

[@mtbiker3000]

@raceman19901 Read their guide on what doors to replace. It will tell you.

[@funkydunky1]

Lol they used so many screws so it wouldn't squeak over time like vehicles that only have snap in dashes.

[@chrisgallen7]

WRONG... The failure has nothing to do with cutting the HVAC system off when you stop the engine. The failure occurs because of the excessive forces during the system calibration routine that drives the doors to a stall position to find the extents of movement. This occurs automatically based on the engine on/off count(10 on most models). The failure is a "wear out" mechanism, but not dependent on age, mileage, weather conditions, or user adjustments...just on/off. A pizza delivery guy will fail faster than grandma taking eggs to market every Saturday. Replacing the doors with OEM plastic will just fail again. HeaterTreater provides a method to replace the doors without removing the plenum box. Even if you want to remove the box and replace the doors, you're still better off using our steel doors instead of plastic that will break again. A lot of professionals don't like to break open the refrigerant system, drain the radiator, remove the steering wheel, etc. because of the liability of putting it back together without missing a wire, creating a rattle, screwing up the radio, or a thousand other potential problems. We prefer to just let sleeping dogs lie, but if you think your truck is a candidate for the Barrett-Jackson auction in 20yrs, it's probably best to keep it stock... The cracked dash is from UV light through the windshield and totally independent of the HVAC system. Just because there are two problems doesn't mean that they are related.