Dodge Ram and GM AAM 11.5-inch and 9.25-inch Axle Rebuilding

Many Dodge, Ram and GM trucks have AAM axles. This is the detailed 75-minute video how-to video that covers the installation of new ring-and-pinion gear sets in popular GM (non-clamshell) and Dodge/Ram AAM 11.5" and 9.25" axles.
Shops, DIY installers and tech instructors will find this HD video valuable. Review the video before performing a ring-and-pinion gear set change or rebuilding an AAM 9.25", 11.5" or 10.5" axle. The step-by-step instructions take installers through the entire process.
Always use a factory shop manual (FSM) for specifications and steps unique to your year, make and model truck. GM and Chrysler specifications differ for various AAM axle applications. The FSM for your model is always a wise investment. PDF/CD versions of the FSM are easier to navigate and handy for printouts that you can take into your shop.
For access to the magazine's many additional articles and video features, go to www.4WDmechani.... For more KZbin videos, go to "Road Ready with Moses Ludel" here at KZbin. For forums and your specific questions, join us at forums.4WDmech....

[@valvestroke1]

Excellently comprehensive! Proper contribution to the preservation of the level of detail required to properly set- up the AAM differential. Excellent Mr. Ludel! Thank you!

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

You're welcome, glad the video was helpful for your axle work! Thanks for your comments and subscription, they encourage more content like this video.

[@thomaspotthast3021]

Thank you. This had everything I needed to do my gear set and saved a boatload of cash.

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

I'm pleased that it worked and saved you a costly labor sublet. I appreciate your feedback, too. Enjoy your truck...

[@MattMorreale-jh1by]

Thank you so much! You saved me alot of frustration cheers 🍻 friend

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

You're welcome. Glad this is helpful...Your subscription is valued, too.

[@taylorgarcia5246]

Excellent video! High attention to detail and much appreciated!

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Glad it was helpful. That was my intent...Thanks for the feedback!

[@josemeza1]

Great video helped out a lot really appreciate people like you!

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Thanks for the feedback...I did this for people like you!

[@07STINKYBOY]

11.5AAM Final Torque on the Cap Bolts should be 207FTLBS with Clean Threads and Loctite 242 Blue.

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Your specifications do apply to my 2005 Ram 3500 11.5" AAM rear axle as illustrated in the video. Chrysler/Ram recommends 207 ft. lbs. torque (2005 Ram FSM Page 3-334 used for this application), using Loctite 242 (Blue) on clean threads. (See the video's details between 40:26-41:51 minutes.) Be aware that specifications vary between AAM, GM, Chrysler and aftermarket service references. The safest approach is to consult the factory shop/service manual for your truck make and model. Note that the AAM 11.5" and 9.25" axle torque specifications differ.

[@JeffinTD]

Differentials have always been something I’ve been less than comfortable with, but your explanation is very clear. Thank you for taking the time. With the crush sleeve type pinion setup, can a person remove the pinion flange, replace the pinion seal and nut without disturbing pinion preload? Or does one have to remove the carrier and install a new crush sleeve?

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

The pinion outer (smaller) bearing requires a high torque load against the backside of the bearing. The crush sleeve provides this load. This is why you cannot back off the pinion nut if the bearing preload is set too high. There would no longer be a high load at the backside of the outer pinion bearing. A new crush sleeve must be installed...Similarly, when you remove the pinion nut and flange to replace just the seal, the load at the backside of the bearing or crush sleeve drops way off. However, according to the 2005 Ram factory service manual references to the 11-1/2" AAM rear axle, you can leave the original crush sleeve in place if you 1) check the bearing preload with the axle shafts removed before loosening the pinion nut, 2) install the new seal, 3) install the flange with sealant, 4) tighten a new OEM-type pinion nut just enough to remove end play (do not overtighten) while turning the pinion shaft to seat the bearings as you apply torque, then 5) apply additional torque very slowly to the pinion nut, reaching the original bearing preload then increasing the bearing preload by an additional 3 to 5 in. lbs. This procedure relies on accurate pre- and post preload readings and rotating the pinion shaft to make sure the bearings are seated when taking the readings. If you crush the sleeve beyond the original preload setting plus the 3 to 5 extra in. lb., you will need to install a new crush sleeve. Replacing the crush sleeve requires removal of the carrier and pinion shaft to access the crush sleeve. When using the original crush sleeve, the goal is to assure sufficient pressure between the original crush sleeve and backside of the outer pinion bearing. Without this pressure and the right bearing preload, the pinion nut can loosen in service, a dangerous condition...Consult your factory shop manual to see whether this procedure is acceptable for your axle.

[@JeffinTD]

Thanks for the awesome reply. I’ve got a 9.25 front that looks like it’s seeping slightly, so sooner or later I’ll have to deal with it.

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Glad this helped...In the 2005 Ram factory shop manual, the 9.25" AAM front axle pinion seal replacement also calls for 3 to 5 in. lbs. added to the original rotational torque/preload. Other details are the same as well.

[@JeffinTD]

I’m kind of thinking, since it is quite a bit of work to pull the axles, when it’s time a person may as well do axle seals and maybe new bearings and hopefully not have to mess with it again for a long time.

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

The front axle shafts are not that difficult to "pull". It's essentially the same task as changing out the front wheel/unit hubs. Once the unit hub is removed, the shaft can be pulled through the hole/opening in the steering knuckle. Shafts can either be slid out far enough to clear the differential side gear splines or removed completely. This enables measuring the rotating torque of the combined ring-and-pinion gears without the drag of the axle shafts and wheel hubs. (This is the goal for accurately recording the original preload and for later resetting the preload after installing a new pinion seal.) Sliding the axle shafts out completely provides an opportunity to replace the axle shaft/steering knuckle U-joints, which is always smart at higher mileage. (Mark the axle shaft pieces for correct reassembly and alignment.) Inspect the unit hub bearings for roughness and wear or play...The only incentive I would have for removing the differential carrier and pinion shaft would be changing out the pinion bearings and differential bearings. To do so, it would be essential to mark the differential bearing adjusters and carefully count the adjuster ring notches when loosening and removing the carrier. You need to reestablish the exact ring-and-pinion gear alignment, pinion depth (shim stack thickness), ring-and-pinion gear backlash and correct bearing preloads to restore the mesh of the used gears. (Finally, confirm the tooth contact pattern with a paste test.) Most often, especially at higher mileage, when the bearings get replaced, the ring-and-pinion gear set gets renewed as well. This requires setting the pinion depth, ring gear backlash and all bearing preloads from scratch. (The steps and sequences are in the video.) Your call here.

[@arthurappelgren6792]

Any issues with heating up the bearing races in an oven to say 200 degrees and then putting them on? Not very hot, and it should expand the bearing to easily put it on.

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Arthur...In my experience, the amount of pressure to press fit a bearing onto a carrier is beyond any expansion you might get from moderately heating the bearing. (This is bearing steel, and it wouldn't expand much if any at 200 degrees F.) Unless an OEM or bearing manufacturer specifies doing so, I would not heat a bearing to install it...When I make trial fit "dummy bearings" as described in the video, it takes noticeable material removal to allow a snug finger fit. If you have a drill press and drum sanding arbor, the process does not take long, though. Dummy bearings (original/old bearings) should not have excess wear. If the old bearings are out of tolerance, the trial fit won't be accurate enough.

[@brandonconner5856]

I froze my pinion and baked my bearing slid right on when cooled came tight

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

I understand the premise...Glad that worked for your project. Not overheating the bearing would be important...This is an interference fit. AAM guidelines for axle service describe the use of pullers and a press with the parts at room temperature.

[@lodollar23]

Ive bought 3 pullers for that pinion yoke. Do you have a link for the one you used? Mine are to small. Thanks!

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

At 11:40-minutes, I explain the use of a blunt end impact driver which often works well. I then demonstrate the puller you ask about: This is a Miller 6790 flange with a long stem from my puller set. The flange is actually for rotating Jeep/Chrysler semi-floating rear axle shafts when checking the function of a Trac-Lok differential. On a Jeep semi-floating rear axle, the wheel nuts secure this tool to the axle flange. The 6790 tool is used with a short bolt through the center threads. A dial torque wrench rotates the bolt head when checking the Trac-Lok. In this improvisation on the 11.5" pinion flange application, I installed a longer, threaded puller stem into the 6790 tool. As you can see, the flange gets bolted to the AAM pinion flange. The threaded stem exerts force against the pinion shaft's end, which separates the two pieces...The official factory tool for pulling the Ram 11.5" pinion flange is the Miller 8992 puller. The 9.25" companion flange removal tool is the 6719A Miller. It looks much like the 8992. Advance Adapters makes a stout universal pinion flange removal tool that uses the same principle as the 8992 and 6719A or my improvised use of the Miller 6790. The Advance Adapters P/N 716400 tool fits popular Dana and other yoke flange applications. Here is the link: www.advanceadapters.com/5410. Give Advance Adapters a call and ask whether the 716400 puller will work with your AAM 11.5" and 9.25" flanges: 1-800-350-2223.

[@user-op6cv1iv1x]

Nice video man! Question, on the side bearing preload you said move the adjuster 6 holes for new bearings, is it 3 holes one side and 3 on the other or all 6 holes on the right adjuster pushing away from the pinion gear? Thanks

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Thanks for the feedback...So, the adjustment of bearing preload is from one side: the pinion side of the differential case. In sequence, the first bearing to adjust is the ring gear side of the differential case until there is zero ring-and-pinion gear backlash. Take up just enough play at the pinion side bearing to keep the differential case aligned on its horizontal centerline while moving the ring gear to zero backlash. (Loosen the pinion side adjuster a few holes if there is too much resistance.) At this point, the gears should have zero backlash; the bearings should have no preload. Ring-and-pinion play/backlash is zero, adjusted with the ring gear side adjuster. The ring gear should rotate with no backlash. The bearings are not putting up resistance but still holding the carrier on center. You now adjust the pinion side bearing to zero clearance. (There should be no bearing or differential carrier side play but no bearing preload, either.) Tighten the pinion side adjuster ring 6 more holes. This accomplishes two things: 1) it establishes the correct preload on the bearings and 2) it should set the correct ring-and-pinion gear backlash. The six hole adjustment is the correct tension or preload on the bearing cups/cones. The calculation is that this 6-hole adjustment will also bring the ring gear backlash within specification...Always verify the backlash. If the backlash is off slightly, check the backlash at several points (90 degrees apart works well) to see whether the ring gear and differential carrier are running true. (If not running true, there is either a warped carrier flange or ring gear, or the ring gear is not seating properly on the carrier flange.) Often, the factory allows a slight amount of runout; see the factory specifications for allowable runout. If gears do run true, you can adjust the bearings to achieve proper backlash. Determine whether you want more or less backlash. Then back off/loosen the adjuster at one side X-number of holes followed by tightening the opposite adjuster the same number of holes. Tightening and loosening evenly will create the desired backlash without disturbing the bearing preload adjustment. As an option, you can readjust the ring gear side first, get the right backlash, then readjust the pinion side adjuster to zero bearing clearance before adding 6 additional adjuster ring holes of bearing preload. In the end, you want 6 holes of bearing preload, no more or less. With overall bearing preload at 6 holes, verify that the ring-and-pinion backlash is still where you want it. If not, repeat the backlash adjustment process, making sure you maintain the right bearing preload.

[@saskwach8822]

Does anyone know where I can find a tone ring with 60tooth count for the AAM 11.5" 14bolt?

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Try the AAM (American Axle and Manufacturing) website (aam.com) or [e-mail]. AAM supplies 11.5" axles and components (including aftermarket) for both Ram and GM.

[@608trucker4]

In another comment you stated there should be no backlash but what ive read online they say there should be between .010 to .013 im just wondering what the correct spec is.

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

"No backlash" is the starting point before adjusting the carrier bearing preload. At zero ring gear backlash with no end play or side movement of the carrier, you back off the ring gear side adjuster four notches. Then tighten the carrier bearing adjuster at the side opposite the ring gear or crown. Take out the play to no end play then continue tightening that adjuster an additional six notches tighter than the zero end play. This moves the ring gear away from the pinion and should be close to the correct backlash. You want both the correct backlash and the correct carrier bearing preload at the same time. Final backlash setting should be the specification for the axle in your truck model. Sometimes we need to back off (loosen) one adjuster or the other to get the backlash desired. When doing so, the opposite adjuster must be tightened the same number of notches to maintain the correct bearing preload. Again, we want the gear backlash and bearing preload to both be correct...On my 2005 Ram 3500 with an AAM 11.5" rear axle, the final ring-and-pinion gear backlash is 0.005"-0.007". (With new bearings, I prefer the middle at 0.006".) To check the final pinion and carrier bearing preloads, I use a torque wrench to rotate the pinion nut, reading the rotational torque. The desired setting is 15-25 in-lbs. for the pinion gear by itself with new bearings. I then install the carrier and set up the (new) bearing preload and ring gear backlash. The final rotational torque at the pinion shaft is 30-50 in-lbs. This is a combination of the pinion bearing preload plus the carrier bearing preload. In the end, the bearing preloads and ring gear backlash must meet the specifications found in your truck's shop manual.

[@608trucker4]

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel yea makes sense I was just questioning do you know how to watch KZbin shorts? I have a short up questioning the end play I have with a dial indicator now the info I gathered from the internet could be off. I was gunna call the stealership tomorrow an see what it exactly calls for

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Watched your short on the 2014 Ram axle work. When you set the bearing "preload", there should be no end play. If your dial stand is on the axle housing, your measurement point is accurate for end play. When the carrier bearing preload is adjusted, there should be no end play at all. Preload is zero end play plus an additional six tightening notches of the adjuster. (If you need to change the backlash after setting bearing preload, remember to back off or loosen one side the same number of notches that you tighten the other side.) Are you trying to get the zero backlash before setting preload and final backlash? Or is this the end play after the backlash adjustment? If this is after the backlash setting, there should be no end play on the carrier bearings. Backlash gets final checked after the bearing preload is set. So, the carrier bearing preload ends up zero end play plus 6 tightening notches of the adjuster with new bearings. (For used/original bearings, the preload is zero end play plus 4 tightening notches.) See my last reply. I added details to help make the initial preload and backlash adjustments closer to the final backlash. This will save time. Remember to check final bearing preloads by rotating the pinion shaft with an in-lbs. torque wrench. I described this in my last reply and in the video. When I finish: 1) the pinion depth is correct, 2) the pinion and carrier bearings have been preloaded and tested for rotational torque (the pinion first and by itself then the combined pinion and carrier rotational torque), 3) the ring gear backlash and runout are correct, and 4) the ring-and-pinion tooth contact pattern is correct.

[@608trucker4]

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I have a noise in the rear end an that's what made me open it up to see what was going on. I think I'm have to put new bearing in it. The ring a pinion look fine to me. So I'm assuming I have a bad bearing somewhere idk I'd adjusting it would fix the issue so I'm gunna try an tear it apart myself an hope I can get it fixed was quoted 2800 bucks to get it done

[@RoadReadywithMosesLudel]

Did you have end play in the carrier bearings when you opened it up? If there is no damage to the ring-and-pinion gear set, you can change the pinion bearings without affecting the pinion depth. You'll use the original pinion shim stack or the exact same thickness of shims if the original shims get damaged during bearing removal. You must use a new crush sleeve. Install a new pinion seal, too. Watch the video again to be familiar with all the steps. Tighten a new pinion nut carefully to crush the new sleeve slowly. Tighten the pinion nut slowly just to the point where you reach the right rotational torque. I provided the rotational torque for new bearings. Do not overtighten the pinion nut. If you tighten beyond the rotational torque specification, you'll have to install another new crush sleeve and pinion nut...Once the pinion bearing preload is correct, you can set up the carrier and ring gear with new bearings on the carrier. You'll use the adjuster rings to set the bearing preload and get the ring gear backlash correct. Be certain to run a tooth contact pattern. If you're reusing the gears, the gears must be right at the original tooth contact pattern. If not, the gears will be noisy and fail.