Does a Fuse Bottleneck Power from a Battery to an Amplifier? | Car Audio Q&A

[@FU-Utube]

Glad to see someone debunking this myth. Can't wait for the follow up

[@PoppaTInstall]

Great! Also to add you know most would add two fuses to the line so if problems persist via front or back of the vehicle it will not burn the entire run. Maybe you can shed some light on this theory as well.

[@Candisa]

The short answer: Yes, because it has to. The long answer: There will always be a resistance between the power source and the consumer. Resistance causes a voltage drop, and combined with the current flowing there is power "loss" which coverts to heat. You want as little heat as possible in the wire itself as too much heat would make it melt or cause a fire. You do this by using a large enough wire for the load, but you also have to protect it from overloading in case of a short or defect. A fuse has to have enough resistance to create enough power lost in heat to melt through when current gets too high. The higher the fuse amp rating, the lower the resistance in order to allow more current to flow through, so a larger fuse will create less voltage drop at the same current. That's why you use oversized wiring and fuse the wire at the amp rating of the wire, not at the lower amp rating of the amplifier (unless the amplifier itself requires external overcurrent protection). To limit the amount of voltage drop in the fuse, good fuses use a conductor material with a low melting point instead of copper. This way less heat power (thus less voltage at the same current) is needed to melt it, which also prevents the fuse casing and fuse holder from melting before the fuse itself pops.

[@handsomerob1119]

I know its been forever but had to say your comment is awesome. I have installed car audio off and on for 20+yrs and went to school for albeit only 1&1/2yrs for electronics and hydraulic servicing but I love your response to this question! Something I never thought about amongst gauge and quality of wire is what the fuse material and grade was...

[@Candisa]

@@handsomerob1119 Thank you, comments like yours keep me motivated to share what I've learned in times that most don't want to read more than 2 lines anymore and 'memes' get 5000 likes.

[@Candisa]

@A. Melbs Not much to need sources for, it's how a melting fuse works... I don't understand what part of my post you're asking sources for?

[@Candisa]

@A. Melbs A lot of claims? The job of a fuse is to melt long before the wire it protects overheats. To achieve that you need the fuse to absorb more power than the rest of the wiring. Since the fuse is in series with the wire, the current is the same through the fuse as through the wire. You need more power in the fuse than in the wire, only way to achieve that is have more voltage loss over the fuse than over the wire because power = voltage x current. To up the voltage over a component with a given current, you need more resistance since voltage = resistance x current. To reduce the resistance and thus the voltage drop over the fuse you can use a material that melts at a lower temperature, because less temperature needed is less power needed, less power needed at the same current is less voltage drop and less resistance. Source: Ohm's law

[@anterpants]

Still waiting on that follow up video link.

[@BanginCB7]

where are the follow up vids?

[@g.d.2069]

you should check the voltage drop across the fuse under load with the amp dyno. It wont fry your multimeter because you are meauring voltage.

[@justingardner4555]

Great video and great discussion. Next get a car from a junkyard, install an amp with proper fuse and short the wire. Repeat the process without fusing the power wire. The difference will settle any debate.

[@MarzMeza]

would still be nice to see a follow up!! common guys!!

[@LividLeon]

I hear some people saying well if your amp ain't blow it is not bottlenecking that is false. Let say you have an 80 amp fuse and let say when 100 amp attempts to pass through it takes 1 minute of 100 amp to blow it. And you listen something dynamic it could resist the flow and not blow if the draw doesn't exceed the blow time. If you playing music and fuse holder feeling hot and it not from environment or a amp next to a heat source like a amp it could be bottlenecking and more heat equals more resistance. The best thing to do is to match the fuse on the amp or when you calculate the efficiency.

[@teragonify]

Easy way to check the “bottle neck” of the fuse is to Measure the voltage across it at peak Load. You can also do this between the ends of your run by measuring the voltage drop across the whole run...

[@SpeedyCashRegister]

The follow up vids will never be released due to liability. We've done the same tests and there is a huge difference in a non fused setup. You can't just go around telling people not to use fuses though. People are idiots and will burn their vehicles to the ground. I run a device that's designed to sever the ground post on the batter at anything over 5gs. There's no guarantee that it'll work in all crash scenarios. It's my opinion that fuses are sketchy at best in crash scenario's. A 50 amp short won't blow a 100 amp fuse, but it'll generate enough heat to melt certain metals and incinerate all kinds of different materials.

[@catherineharris4746]

Facts!👍👍

[@averyalexander2303]

Which fuses did you test and under what conditions? I certainly haven't tested all fuses, but I have tested the voltage drop across several different fuses under realistic loads and I have not seen anything over around 0.1 volts at the very most, usually much less than that. Also, although not perfect, fuses ARE very effective protection. In the real world, a properly sized fuse will generally blow if a wire is shorted well before it starts on fire. As you said it is totally possible for something to short in way that enough heat is generated to start a fire without enough current to blow the fuse, but such a scenario is difficult to intentionally create (I have experimented with this) and the odds of the vehicle not burning to the ground is still way better than if you have no protection at all. Blown fuses are MUCH more common than car fires. Saying that a safety device isn't worth using because it's only effective in perhaps 99 out of every 100 scenarios is ridiculous. Unfortunately there aren't many guarantees in life and this is no exception, all we can do is take precautions wherever practical/possible and hope for the best.

[@SpeedyCashRegister]

@@averyalexander2303 As a disclaimer let me say this: DO NOT RUN YOUR CAR AUDIO SYSTEM WITH NO FUSE. You'll probably burn your car to the ground. In almost 30 years I've never popped a fuse, or had a fire. That being said, lets talk about the tests. You need to be testing under full load. Doesn't matter what the fuse is doing if the system is off. Current (not voltage) is inversely proportional to resistance. So don't worry about measuring the voltage drop. As for my experience. we always used either scosche or lightning audio. The first test I ever did was in a 95 S10 with a US Amps US150. First pass through the line (fused) was 135 .0db second pass (no fuse) was 137.2db finished 3rd in my class. I guess that's the real world test. The second round of tests almost 15 years later was on another s10 that I did not own. He had 2 Memphis Audio 12" subs. 155db+ Way too loud to sit in. I can't recall the total wattage or the current draw on that one either. He had a wafer fuse holder with a 200 amp fuse. I am almost certain that it was made by scosche. We used a clamp meter to measure the amperage drop across the fuse. Which led us to taking 2 power distribution blocks and making a bypass system that he could use when he was at competitions.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@SpeedyCashRegister That's very interesting, thanks for sharing! I wonder if the fuse possibly created brief voltage drops when the bass hit that would be too quick to pick up with a normal multimeter. I would love to see the voltage drop of various fuses tested with a scope under different conditions, I think that would give us a better idea of what's going on. What about circuit breakers? Do you think those may be a better option than fuses? I know they create some amount of voltage drop too since they need to create enough heat to bend the bimetallic strip in order to trip, but maybe less than a fuse?

[@djbrs8549]

If you use a circuit breaker it works upon a braided wire and 2 contacts. When resistance builds up from heat it trips. But what you need to take into consideration is when the circuit breaker is closed making contact depending on the manufacturer that makes it it has a lot to do with what type of contact materials they are using and how good they are aligned together also how much pressure is between the two contacts. Fuses do protect quicker than circuit breakers but with a good quality circuit breaker it’s possible there’s less loss of current if it’s of good quality.

[@nrgrlsd9931]

Every conductor has a certain amount of resistance. That resistance is cumulative over the distance of the conductor (wire, in this case). The by product of resistance is heat and voltage drop. So the wire must be sized to account for both. The fuse and fuse material are engineered to account for the amperage listed. They will allow that much amperage through (plus the tolerance). If you size the fuse and wire to the equipment they supply, accounting for voltage drop if applicable, they shouldn't be any noticable loss.

[@nullsig]

I am extremely interested to see the results from your next few videos guys, You have helped out immensely so far with your knowledge

[@Chromedome-ss6mg]

The weak point isn't really where that rivet was because that rivet is material where that hole is now. So it's actually connecting it . But if you took the protective thing off with the rivers then of course that's the weak point.

[@TheOffPowerZero]

are the follow ups uploaded yet I'm very interested in the results

[@kavaninho7]

great video! just one thing to take into consideration when you're doing your test with the amp, is to ensure that the amp is at the same temp for the three wire configuration tests!

[@neilclark3243]

I always used the rule if I do 4g from amp 1 to block then 4g from amp 2 to block then i do 2g from block to battery given length of run vs draw is in spec.

[@SwirlingDragonMist]

Can we get the links to those videos pinned to the top of the page please, thanks.

[@Van1018s]

Maybe I can help a little with my own experiment I did. I have a JL 900/5. It calls for a 60 amp fuse. I ran 4 gauge from battery. Approx 16 feet. The fuse holder was located 2 feet from the battery under the hood. I had done the big 3. I put in the 60 amp that the amp called for. With a 40 hz test tone playing at clipping my voltage dropped .55 volts at the amp. I then switched to a 150 amp fuse. With the same 40hz test tone playing to clipping I only had a voltage drop of .21. The larger fuse absolutely made a difference in power getting to my amp. Amp is no longer properly protected by the fuse, but that’s what the amps protection circuitry is for. My power wire is still protected from grounding out. So in my opinion absolutely use a bigger fuse. Your amp should protect itself. The fuse is to protect from a potential melted power wire/fire/etc, which the larger fuse will still do. Hope that helps!

[@emerybryant]

did you guys happen to do the follow up video yet? i didnt see it in the videos list o.o looking forward too seeing it tho lol

[@badbatch974]

There is not any so called "bottle necks". ANL and all fuses are made very specifically to carry exactly the amount of current indicated on the fuse and NO more. All can handle voltages suitable for automotive use, anywhere up to around 24 volts DC. The the amplifier increases the amps to the desired wattage. Volts x amps = watts

[@karabetr]

where is the test you promise

[@christianbejerholm8157]

you can make a simple voltage drop measurement between the plus on the battery and the amplifier while it plays

[@jackykimes]

Yes. Just measure across the fuseholder and see how much voltage is dropping across that element.

[@sahajankhan1436]

Hi sonic electronix was there a follow up video to this?, if so..is it possible to send me a link, i am really curious to what results the tests bought about.

[@thomasmarquez6790]

Why can't you use a amp clap before the fuse and then after the fuse and compare it that way?

[@seenfilms975]

You have to think about total surface area of the metals being used...electrons travel on the surface...so maybe the fuse total surface area is close to or equal to the total surface area of the wire strands...

[@ModerateDev]

SeenFilms exactly wires are a collection of thin strands whereas the fuse is a solid chunk of metal that can A dissipate heat better and B handle a higher current. voltage drops are mainly caused by electrical energy being converted into heat energy because a single strand by itself put under a load would become very hot and brake much like a filament in a light bulb you need to add lots more strands to share the load. This isn't the case with a fuse as being solid metal it will carry a current much more efficiently without excessive heat meaning little to no voltage drop (exchanged energy) it all comes down to purpose of use a wire needs to be flexible and long that is why it is made from strands which flex well but don't carry a current as efficiently so more is needed whereas a fuse does not need to flex and does not need to be long so it can be made from a solid block of metal which is much more efficient at carrying a current as it doesn't heat up as easily therefor less material is needed.

[@ryanmoore9877]

when are you doing this test

[@robertholsopple9451]

Sonic Electronics, Where is the follow up videos? I've been patiently waiting, lol

[@duidrift]

i gotta chime in because i think the answer is incomplete. the copper in the B+ wire is very thin per strand allowing it to be flexible enough to run through or under your cars interior. also copper/nickel wire has a some what low melting temperature and are low mass with alot of airspace between twists. the metal in the fuse is not copper (i believe it is steel alloy) and is solid. solid wire is technically the best conductor.

[@masso45able]

3 years and no follow up?

[@juniorlopez1525]

Really 3 years ago dammm

[@whaBAMdude]

Would love to see the follow up and results of your test!

[@juniorlopez1525]

Can you please make a video to connect a capacitor with three amplifiers I need to know a little more thank you

[@jeanious2009]

Tests results were so miniscule that they were embarrassed to even upload them, lol.

[@ilovetoyotatrucks]

Did you ever do this test??? Im kinda curious mabey show the difference between anl agu maxi & a fuse breaker....

[@scottpellegrin8]

Where are the fallow up videos???

[@Empiretrooper86]

i love watching your vids i learn so much with car audio keep them coming sonic electronix is the best :)

[@jonathoncummings1711]

Still waiting on the follow up guys!!

[@chrisbalkissoon9381]

I have the mtx rtl12x2d subs and the final impedance is 2 ohms when wired in the box now I have a amp that is 500 watts bridged at 4 ohms so it's a two channel amp now if I was to run speaker wire off of the one terminal cup on the speaker box to the amp and bridge it will it affect the amp or the subs even though the subs final impedance is 2 ohms and the amps is 4 ohms bridged

[@michaellee7885]

Am I missing something? I didn't see a question within the comment 🤷🏾‍♂️🤷🏾‍♂️

[@danielbeavers8701]

Hey bro i have a 3200 watt zeus and 500 watt brutis elite. Well i went to change the the cd player and my amps cut out. Well it turns out when they hooked it up they screwd part of the amp wire. When i un hooked it the amp wire touched metal. The 3200 watt does not have feuses. The 500 does but there fine the amps were ran together. So my question is what does it do to the amp when the amp wire touches metal and can it be fixed and if so is it worth fixing. Thanks

[@Brian1.]

Great video guys.

[@agaporamirez9972]

Still waiting for the follow up video.. what happend??

[@MazdaBass971]

Didn't think in the laws of electricity there was such thing as a bottleneck, its not water... lol

[@jackykimes]

Not exactly the same, but water flow is often used as a visual illustration of current flow.

[@Jsalazar3269]

so are we going to see the results?

[@johnalenwork53]

#2 video ????

[@aonixer6]

Are you guys gonna sell hybrid audio tech speakers!?

[@joehathaway1982]

Is there still going to be A follow up?

[@boostedfrijoles]

Can I run 2 14 volt batteries wired I'm parallel to power my 14 volt amp and my car?

[@MazdaBass971]

Eli Perez If you want to run 14volt battery's in your vehicle you need to have a 16volt alternator also and run the charge wires from that alternator to those battery's, granted if your vehicle has room for a 2nd alternator because you need the 12volt alternator to run the ECU, if you only run a 16volt alternator you will blow your vehicles stock electrical components that make it operate. To be clear remember, 12volt battery's will charge at 14.5volts 14volt battery's will charge at 16.5volts 16volt battery's will charge at 18.5volts Most amplifiers now n days are becoming more efficient so a 12volt system will get you some good power.

[@nopeoutahere7466]

I bought old subwoofer box that the mounting area is eaten up. How do I fix it.

[@MazdaBass971]

John Heuerman Get a new box, you can't repair MDF wood its to soft.

[@tylerpaquet7956]

MazdaBass971 he could just buy some t nuts

[@apllDgrapllD]

Can an unused amp/speakers be good after sitting for yrs?

[@LetThatBassDr0p]

As long as nothing damages them, absolutely.

[@MyBlowncobra]

follow up video please

[@Crookedletta601]

2nd video with a sufficient clamp meter please...........

[@patrickk4712]

did Alan work for Sonic Electronix before or after sound man

[@CarAudioInc]

after

[@KaveMan504]

Question. I was going to run a power wire for amp and there is already a power wire ran have way. for whatever reason from the last owner of the car. I was going to connect and run from that power wire and it has a fuse already. My question is, Would it be ok to have 2 fuses on the power wire? thanks

[@Ernestom5]

+KMProduction Redundant, but it wouldn't hurt (use ANL fuses though).

[@KaveMan504]

+Ernestom5 thanks. I didn't think it would hurt. Ima just connect that fuse with one I bought

[@szczurekM18X]

Hi. I have a problem with Chrysler voyager 2001. I want to install aftermarket head unit however stock head unit is using PCI BUS to switch on and off and if there is no head unit connected to PCI BUS wire stock amp won't turn on therefore there is no sound. Is there any adapter or different way for the amp to switch on while using aftermarket head unit?

[@ModerateDev]

szczurek512 sorry if I'm misreading your question but you can wire your positive key 12v (red wire) to your cigarette positive 12v and then all you need to do is wire your constant 12v (yellow wire) to your existing constant 12v. This way power is supplied when you turn the key and turned of when you take it out.

[@szczurekM18X]

linkto thepast That is what I've done however problem is with factory AMP which won't power up until we have connected factory head unit which use PCI bus to switch on and off.

[@andufuse640]

we make fuse and fuseholder for car .

[@vwjmkv]

Sonic Electronix are you going to carry HAT on your website?!

[@andufuse640]

good

[@edwardholliman465]

Breaker fuses flow more current than buse fuses because it uses trip fuse not burn away there more copper to copper contact because dasighn lol

[@c0uchsl0uch]

i guess he electricuted himself

[@xx1francisxx]

whats the safest way to change out a fuse holder. mine melted and im replacing it with a more expensive anl fuse holder. other then have car off is there anything else I need to do because it is the second battery one I am changing - how do i keep from being shocked-

[@cncgeneral]

That was a lot of talking for not actually doing anything

[@sammyj184]

Was this guy high ?

[@jeanious2009]

+jay s Apparently...lol.