How To Install the Big 3 Upgrade | Improve Your Vehicle's Electrical Charging System | Car Audio

Shop for Big 3 Upgrade kits: www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i1...
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The Big 3 Upgrade improves your vehicles charging system, giving all it's electrical equipment the current it needs to perform it's best.
Anyone with an amplified aftermarket car audio system, especially those over 1000 Watts, should seriously consider performing this upgrade. If you've noticed dimming headlights, slow window roll down speeds, or voltage drops it's time to do a Big 3 Upgrade.
Wires to Upgrade / Installation Steps:
1. Alternator charging wire to Battery positive
2. Battery negative to chassis ground wire
3. Engine Block to chassis ground wire
1/0 Gauge wire is recommended as it will provide the lowest resistance and potential current flow, but any size larger than the factory wires will be an improvement.
OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) wire is always recommended over CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) because of it's superior conductivity and corrosion resistance.
Examine your vehicle before purchasing an Big 3 Upgrade kit to make sure you have all the necessary tools to do that job, and that you buy the correct length of wire.
Keep in mind that some car's batteries are located in the trunk of the vehicle, these will require longer runs of wire.
Installation Tools and Accessories:
www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i3...
More information on the Big 3 Upgrade:
knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/...
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Big 3 Upgrade step by step

[@thecarman3693]

6:59 When connecting to an aftermarket battery terminal such as shown, it's best to first put the bare wire into a wire ferrule and then clamp it down inside the terminal block with the Allen set screw. This keeps the individual wire filaments from fraying and makes a better overall connection.

[@knifeknerdreviews4609]

Yeah I became a believer in wire ferrules after the first use... To think how many stereo systems I installed without those things back in 90s and 2000s...lol..

[@bostonseifrit3684]

​@@knifeknerdreviews4609same here😂

[@tissuepaper9962]

if you don't want to buy the crimping tool you can also just use solder to hold the ends together. The solder also gives the set screw something nice and soft to bite into for a great connection.

[@joshtaylor4249]

I've done all of these things..It works.. Excellent tutorial for those un savvy in automotive electrical.

[@Straight_White_Fatherly_Figure]

Definitely the best and clearest explanation that i could find, thank you very much, even 7 years later 👍🏻

[@blownaway4371]

And additional 'tip' is before you crimp the terminal end, is to dip the freshly stripped wire into some light oil (PB blaster, WD-40 etc) because the wound wire will 'wick' the oil back up under the rest of the wire insulation to help prevent corrosion seeping up into wire after time. And then if you decide to use heat shrinking sleeves, it will protect just that much better. (ESPECIALLY for the Northern states that use salt etc on the roadways)

[@mickdeegan4651]

Exllent tip my goo frend dielectric grease doe's not sipe l like pblast

[@TedTedness-wu4vb]

Fluid Film and a quick hit with heat gun will wick the Fluid Film up into the cable too.

[@garonjohnson5922]

​@mickdeegan4651 Did you mean *wick? Or sipe?

[@sidgar1]

You can also solder it in, which will create a metal to metal bond which will leave no room between the wire and the connector and prevent oxidation between them

[@freeyourmind8849]

I have done this upgrade to a dozen different cars. but why? you will not gain any horsepower. but your car will start faster, your battery will last a little longer, reduce chances of shorts and check engine lights, and your interior lights and gouge will be slightly brighter. to the engineers that say don't do it. the car manufactures especially imports use the bare minimum metal and materials to get by to maximize profit on quantity of cars sold. we live in a world where quality is rare and quantity dominates. just look at the food Mcdonald's sells.

[@chrisgray8741]

freeyourmind88 I

[@joshwolden2929]

Well said.

[@ezeykod4438]

freeyourmind88 you just explained why

[@danielfierro3671]

Agree!

[@emotionalintelligence776]

Apparently, you missed the entire statement by Freeyourmind88 of why, surprisingly for people who do more than just let their cars drive them, we knew it had nothing to do with stereo installs although it could be applicable at a later point. VW's before 2010 should've automatically came with an upgrade kit as those cars were the poster child of bare minimum wiring.

[@olechuga2]

Sir, you are the very first (v1st) vehicle mechanic that I see working under the hood seating down. Excellent ... absolutely nothing wrong in working in a "comfy" style! Sir, thank you for your great video on "The big three (3).

[@tonistarks2874]

😁I just noticed

[@deankay4434]

Always disconnect the battery negative before starting any electrical service. It is safety & protects electronics! Best practices are good. Purchase a digital multi meter (DMM) to have the ability to do “Voltage Drop” test and (OCV) open circuit voltage at the battery. There are good videos on both. The battery stored energy to start the car, un-lock, lock and power lights plus many other duties like certain memory functions & clock. Yours will vary. The alternator uses diodes to direct energy to negative (Back Case of Alternator) and the B+. Negative to the battery completes a DC circuit and most cars don’t have a “Full” dedicated frame. Negative wire to the battery (As his Example) have a “Tee” inline, that bolts to chassis but to the engine. Rebuilding or modifying can be fun but a good cable for negative should attach from the back of the alternator and continue on to the battery. You need grounds everywhere to chassis, engine, battery, frame (If applicable) but the littles ones found on intakes, cylinder head or rocker arm cover to the firewall (Bulkhead) are required but the battery to the block is the big one. After all, you want it to crank to start. A good battery tested at 100% state of health and (OCV) at 12.6-12.8 Vdc is correct. The alternator will charge a good battery at less than 1/2 an amp while driving. OEM alternators sense B+ but also temperature. Cold batteries take as much as 14.2 volts as hot batteries take 13.2. The Marine industry + some auto’s with the battery under the rear seat has temp sensors to adjust the rate of charge. Use wire that is quality with “Star Washers” inside or out that dig into both metals, the connector & car. Yes, remove paint to a minimum but protect your connections with a $6 tube of dielectric grease. Adding amps, DSP, and other aftermarket components need a single large fuse that totals the added load. Placed next to the battery as close as one can. Route using existing rubber grommet and avoid all pinch points to avoid fire. Amp clamps w / direct readout are reasonably priced and with the loads on, measure each. Write this down and purchase a distribution fuse center. Sizing wire for unknown amps is guessing and boxes lye about amperage requirements. You can never use “OutPut” for calculation of picking the correct fuse. Start with only the size indicated by the component then the system on at full, the amp clamp will show the correct fuse by 28.6 amps, get a 30 amp fuse, not a 50 amp. The fuse protects the wire and not the component. Voltage drop is measuring the loss of voltage across point “A” to point “B” while on at maximum. The higher the circuit amps, the higher the voltage drop, so a 120 amp circuit voltage drop is 0.500 Vdc. 1/2 of a volt is lost! Normal. 16 amp circuit will show 0.050 Vdc loss. Like headlights or blower fan. These are series circuits, therefore the component uses all the voltage in the circuit. A new switch, wires, connectors, fuse and ground will add up losses when on and new. Measure with DMM on volts, turn on circuit and measure B+ side, ground side both to battery, the component gets the rest. Anything kissing high volts is resistance due the ground, connector, switch, wire or even a fuse. Follow these suggestions and you will have no problems and it works well in diagnosing. Amps to a fuel pump are about 7.0 - 8.5 Amps. Higher than this, plugged filter, pinched line, etc. Lower means the pump is worn and will fail. A simple fuse jumper wire plugged in at the fuel pump fuse w / Amp clamp will show. Voltage drop? If the black or red meter leads are backward, the reading is the same only with a (-) sign in front of it.

[@taichijohn6071]

This is the best Big 3 Upgrade videos that I've seen. The camera work is stable. You can see almost everything mentioned. The presentation is organized and features graphics. The presenter is knowledgeable, smooth, and easy to understand. The presenter is wearing a lav mic so the viewer can hear him clearly. The video presents more than one vehicle to illustrate differences in vehicle designs and challenges they may present. I give a big thumbs up on this very informative video!

[@jayisfedup6896]

I understand they did a good job on explaining. But you seem to not know sh$t! If you need a here is the battery an this is an engine block break down. You do not need to touch anything. You need to hire some1. You need basic skills an common knowledge before most if not all you tube DIY videos.

[@4yearsclean]

@@jayisfedup6896 Get off your high horse

[@adisadis6313]

And we are swimming into your saliva....

[@jacobsellars7910]

@@jayisfedup6896 sounds like hes fed up...

[@ahmedmansoor6711]

you sound like a school teacher marking a presentation

[@mrolskul]

I actually upgraded, and added a few more grounding points to my 1985 Corolla GT-S, along with the battery ground, over a decade ago. I thought of the alternator charging wire to the battery but wasn't sure how to do it. I will be definitely be upgrading the charging wire today which will compliment my upgraded alternator (OEM was a mere 60 amperes) with a 100 amperes unit for a 1993 MR2 (w-p/s), which happens to be Plug & Play. Thanks a lot for this informative video, very helpful!

[@Ella-gb3rj]

This tutorial provides clear and concise instructions on how to install the big three upgrade for your vehicle's electrical charging system. The steps are easy to follow and the explanations are helpful. I appreciate the time and effort that went into creating this content. It has been very informative and useful. Keep up the good work!

[@jamesorr1200]

This video was extremely helpful. Thank you!

[@gtstanton9785]

I gotta say heaven, in car audio for 20 for almost 25 years and I have to say your guy’s video at SONIC Electronics is the best on KZbin!

[@mpccenturion]

This is a great idea for preventing the dreaded - rusty and falling off wires that are burnt and rubbed through and sparking when it rains and there is road salt. Up my way - this kind of stuff is for diesels, like the old or new TDI or old Mech pumps. Winter requires a 1000 COLD CRANK AMPS. And then you have to get all that power to the starter and not melt off the connections, so dont forget to keep going with the upgrades. Best regards - you did a great job explaining and including solder use. Cheers!

[@thomass9099]

I did the big 3 today and it made a big improvement!!

[@johnnystech8392]

Your subs are hitting harder?

[@waynefisher4585]

Al, you did a great job and the visual was excellent , thank you.

[@stephenkeebler732]

My brother had a '69 Camaro, California car with very little rust. Constant electrical problems, too many to list. Ended up running heavy gage wire replacing factory positive and negative battery cables. Helped! Added heavy ground wires to several spots of front body panels. Helped more! Ran ground terminals with connections to each other. Much better! Then, ran heavy Ground to engine block, both cylinder heads, and front frame. It made a world of difference. Was amazed how much resistance there was between metal on car...

[@Mikester85]

This video is ESSENTIAL!!!

[@sat_sonic]

This is truly and excellent idea to do. Especially if you have a vehicle that mounts it’s battery under the passenger seat or back in the trunk.

[@markcoe69]

Thanks guys for the valuable information and your time making it.

[@ralph1270]

Thanks for this video! I will working with this upgrade tomorrow.

[@oswaldjh]

The secondary ground that you see on the other vehicles shown are for the cylinder head which might be isolated from the block ground by the head gasket. The studs holding the head on might be covered in locktite and thus the need for that ground as a precaution. It might have been wise to find the block ground instead as this is the one the alternator is attached to.

[@averyalexander2303]

Quick tips- The nuts/bolts on the strut towers which hold the strut mount to the chassis work extremely well as ground points because they are nice and large, the metal on the strut towers is thick, and you can tighten them down tight without stripping it or causing damage because they are large and sturdy. Just don't ground to the strut/mount itself since it's usually isolated by rubber bushings. I would also suggest finding a large bolt on a sturdy part of the engine block or head to connect the ground to instead of connecting it to a small bolt on a valve cover, bracket, or something similar. That way the cable is connected to a thick piece of metal that can handle current well, and you can tighten the bolt down nice and tight for a solid connection. Also, as he said, make absolutely sure to sand/wire brush all connections to clean, shiny metal since paint and oxidized metal are very poor conductors. I hope that this information helps someone

[@micheledianemiller4589]

have to watch doing this ,,,, some vehicles have rubber mounts for struts

[@averyalexander2303]

@@micheledianemiller4589 Great point, thanks for mentioning that! I was referring to the nuts that hold the strut mount to the strut tower rather than the nut that holds the strut to the mount, but after rereading my comment I realize that what I wasn't totally clear, so I edited it for clarity so I don't confuse anyone.

[@TruthSeekerAll]

When you remove the nut that holds the struts, does it loosen the struts and does it need to be aligned back or something? Can we just loosen one of the nuts, put the wires there and just tighten the nut just like that and all will be fine? Its the first time I’m gonna do the big 3 so I’m quite nervous. Appreciate your inputs. Thanks a lot.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@TruthSeekerAll It won't loosen anything or affect the alignment. Just remove one of the nuts/bolts holding the mount to the chassis (not the one in the center holding the strut to its mount), sand or grind the surface under the head to clean, shiny metal, install the terminal, and reinstall the nut/bolt. If you are nervous about using a strut mount nut/bolt, there are a bunch of other things you can use too. I just found that the strut mount bolts work well almost universally since they are large and the strut towers are thick. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask

[@TruthSeekerAll]

@@averyalexander2303 Thanks so much. Have a great day. 👍

[@davidandlaurie1]

Ty for this walk throw. Grate job keep them coming

[@j-remy9832]

Great video. I haven't had beat for a decade, and I'm doing all of this tomorrow afternoon as I drive a 4 banger. Thanks bro!

[@wilborth5th]

BEST VIDEOS YOU CAN FIND TO IMPROVE THE “HEALTH” OF YOUR CAR, BETTER ELECTRICITY CURRENT DEFINITELY WILL MAKE YOUR CARS PERFORMANCE WAY BETTER, THANKS

[@eknaap8800]

Why are you YELLING?

[@KOIFLA]

All done on the Saab 900. Put 4ga from the alternator to the battery and went from 12 volts to 13.1 no load and much more stable when adding load. Thanks Sonic

[@RellPurnellakaCarshowRell]

Gonna probably do this for my 900 also

[@Grayback1973]

Great video Allen.Thank you,I learned a lot!

[@ericthegeneric1611]

I wasnt going to comment but man i respect that he gave different examples for different vehicles at the end. Very nice.

[@OhighOSkater]

Thank you for the video. I have an 02 dodge stratus and I stay having electrical issues. I've replaced my alternator and bought an expensive battery for it. Now I think I see what I need to change. Thanks man!

[@nelagordon24]

For the charging wire any additional wire you add smaller or larger than the original wire size you'll see an improvement.

[@ramishrambarran3998]

Great video. Very explanatory and to the point ! Full marks ! Trinidad % Tobago. West Indies.

[@luissonoma6255]

Thank you for this video, very detailed & precise.

[@fred0356]

LOL "have fun" that jeep patriot had me dying.

[@johndoe-wh6td]

Huh, never knew you can upgrade that part

[@peterbuilt5427]

Thanx bro definitely the best diy video on the tube. Great attention to detail and the best explanation to understand. Thanx again

[@BlackuLaLa]

I've seen some weird shit when I've googled "Big 3 Upgrade", so thanks a TON for this straightforward vid. Much appreciated!!

[@Vannyvann7420]

Can you do a Big 3 upgrade on early 2000's Silverado it would really help out a lot I've seen other videos but don't trust how they are doing their set up

[@KolaMokwele]

"Improve Your Vehicle's Electrical Charging" Good stuff

[@elvd1296]

LOL

[@therealdojj]

nice, simple explanation without complicating it using big words thank you

[@rustypotatos]

Hey thank yall for this video. watched this video probably 5 years ago and I was such a noob I didn’t even understand but now that I have had more cars and abilities have grown this is so awesome lmaooo

[@chrisgraham2904]

The Big Three Upgrade is a great insurance for a trouble free starting system for the life of the vehicle. If you don't have a wiring kit, any welding shop can provide very high quality DC cables, sold by the foot and a variety of quality connectors. Total upgrade cost is about $50 and a little driveway labor.

[@chrisgraham2904]

If the upgrade prevents even one tow during the life of the vehicle, it's paid for. Without the upgrade, failure of any of these wires can cause expensive damage to the battery, the alternator, starter and other charging components.

[@immrnoidall]

the engine ground on my jeep grand,has broken right off. i never knew a thing. until i fixed it. everything got better.

[@mohammadredzwan9724]

Awesome tips . thanks for this very useful big 3 upgrade 👍

[@bobbyramdass7317]

Excellent video using 4 gauge wire on stock cars👍. Saw some other videos where guys were using huge 0 (zero) gauge. Some great tips in the comments about dipping in a lube BEFORE crimping ends to prevent corrosion.

[@UnpredictableStuntN]

some people dont know how much of an improvement the big 3 is, great video!!

[@xspowermando9551]

Wait till u see the big 4

[@kingwillie206]

Noe Simental - I prefer Big Hero 6 myself.

[@tommangu9940]

would love you guys to do an amp dyno test before the big 3 & after to see what the difference is 👌 Love your guys videos....great info

[@greenmarine5]

....that's logically pointless

[@bobbyotay]

I don't understand why Tom's request is logically illogical I mean really what are you doing this for do you really even know if it's like the other videos I've been saying and listening to you guys keep saying you can increase the voltage that is an absolute joke you can't change the voltage if it was a wire is thin has paper or as thick is an elephant's trunk. So now that we have that truth out of the way back to the why you do this to start with I mean there should be a basis for everything there should be a start and the reason for anything you're doing so again if you're doing this for More Voltage you're wasting your time but like Tom said," it sounds like he could be educated" what is the total amperage that you gain the end of this because we all know well at least now we all know you cannot get any more voltage by changing the wire size you can only get more amperage Through the Wire so it sounds so silly that you would even question Tom's thought on how much amperage you could pull through your wires because that's all you're doing you're setting it up so you can draw the same voltage however more amperage through the wires which feeds the larger hungry for amperage not voltage to run properly. You took the words right out of my mouth Tom how about amperage test that's the real way of telling if this really does anything at all which we know by All rights it should and the one thing that I've always learned about electricity for my dad that used to do the electrical on B-52 bombers in the Air Force was that you needed as big as a ground has you have a hot wire. Which brings me to joke number two. I rebuild alternators for a living. Why would you need to ground an alternator that has no remote grounding components whatsoever and if the engine is grounded properly no Factory would send it out the door without having the proper gauge wire for the alternator that it is built with however if you are going to use a larger alternator then you could consider running a heavier wire and unlike all of you people that keep saying hook your grounds to the same place, that is so dumb and also not true you want to separate your grounds most people are just too lazy to get under the vehicle and established a new ground opposing the factory one that means opposite of perfect example is if you're going to use a rear-mounted battery which is the way to go aftermarket stereo amplifier you would run a charge wire back to the battery which would not have to be the welding lead you are talking about again we're talking amperage that comes from the alternator it doesn't matter it still a 12-volt alternator capable of putting out 14 point 8 volts however we all know that it's the amperage and the amount that it puts out that regulates the wire size. So if you ran a battery in the back you would also my suggestion run your ground wire right there. It's funny listening to you about you don't know why somebody would run a ground through something the size of a speaker. Do you know how many amps go through a ground LOL you're starting to get the drift I hope maybe you will change your videos when you use words like I don't know why and you're standing there talking about automobile manufacturers with educated employees seriously don't get me laughing I'll have to get some tape Cape my whole body to keep from cracking up anyways you're wasting a lot of time there's nothing worse than people that know what they're talking about looking right through BS and knowing it's just pure BS.. PS do you sell Wire by the Foot LOL

[@freeair7292]

@@bobbyotay agreed,thumbs up for you!

[@rudyhaalilio8095]

I think its more for keeping your voltage stable then adding volts... it'll save your alternator also...

[@HarmonicFoul]

@@bobbyotay jesus but fair lol i would like to second the motion for a before and after amperage test lol

[@mdalibmaris5175]

Your explanation is very clear bro....thanks so much....I'll do that Big 3 Upgrade to my Toyota Vios soon...

[@joaquinaguirre2976]

Thank you so much Sonic, I appreciate the info. I will do mine camry 2001 in the future.

[@NordicDan]

I'm a big fan of a crimp for the mechanical connection, and soldering to make a more solid, permanent electrical connection. It's how I've always made welding cables, and it's always worked great. I also use closed end terminal lugs (100% copper) and adhesive lined shrink wrap where the lug meets the insulation to create more long term resistance in wire degradation from age and oxidation.

[@taung9535]

Please look up why you’re wrong. It’s better to crimp in these situations

[@NordicDan]

@@taung9535 Or you could back up your thesis and avoid coming off as a prick, especially because in THIS situation, a crimped and soldered terminal is superior. 25+ years of experience working both ground vehicles and aircraft in addition to well over a thousand hours of formal training has taught me which situations require only a crimp, which require only solder, and which benefit from both; especially when you're going for a long term reliable electrical connection.

[@Snakebite420]

What about a fuse on the ALT CHARGING WIRE To the terminal? They usually go to the fuse box to prevent any issues that could happen. Running it straight to the battery could give you issues and damage your components.

[@alexavdeev1158]

👍👍 That's a GREAT video bro!!! Thank you for your work! 👍👍

[@brettaylor2661]

Thanks for the video! Well done.

[@timschutte8310]

, Another Tip............ if you cannot find or get to the original engine block ground, don't worry about it. Just run an entirely NEW GROUND and leave the factory ground. Nothing wrong with doing that. After all, it's a factory ground anyways. so leave it for you do it yourself kind of people.

[@mallorycainjr.1921]

I needed this statement thanks you and also would a strut tower be a good ground for chassis to engine block? I have a 2002 chevy impala

[@RufusBuck5]

@@mallorycainjr.1921 yup.. I got a 2013 and I put it to the strut bolt..

[@semajkeaton331]

Run a new ground from the engine block to the battery?

[@slow_rednline4874]

@@semajkeaton331 yes I don't even use my OEM ground..I relocated my battery to the back and deleted my front battery ..it's grounded with double 4/0 cables

[@MrYessireebob]

I'd be more worried about those fogged headlights than the big 3

[@ChrisSmith-gl2yb]

Tony 109 haha

[@DefWun]

Legend says that to this day,those lights are the same color as a school bus.

[@JenGM24]

Brush.

[@ekofreezy3432]

😂👍

[@DIYeverything513]

LOL

[@supermanwhitt]

Love the you go in depth also THE HAT IS GROOVY!!!

[@rodneyhendricks2412]

Love a bro. I appreciate it I’ll be doing mine this week soon my alternator shipped in.

[@nathanc5789]

First time I've seen the Big 3 done incorporating the original wiring with the new wiring. Interesting.

[@richbernhagen3137]

My thoughts exactly..hes parelling which I feel is not right

[@elvd1296]

LMAO

[@elvd1296]

@@richbernhagen3137 it's right it's just extra and basically useless

[@fragslayer]

Yeah it'll take the "path of least resistance" regardless. I mean sure you could remove the OEM completely but its really a waste of time. Now if your as OCD me and have the time and know-how then by all means.

[@REVIEW_JUJUR]

*Doing this improve my battery charging voltage by 0.2 volt. Nice share...*

[@hiRyan329329]

Big 3 plus a high output alternator makes doing this way more worth it

[@stergioser]

I didn't know that! 🤔 Thank you!

[@honahwikeepa2115]

I'm going to do this. I have basic toos but a fair amount of mechanical engineering knowledge. Thank you 💪👍🇳🇿

[@c.m.cunningham1175]

Would of liked to see the calculations for this upgrade, also depending on how old the original wire are, the old wires could be causing underlining issues for the charging system!

[@c.m.cunningham1175]

@Travis Hamler I used welding wire which would have a different resistance, but I was referring to the video. Which doesn't show the performance improvements (multimeter).

[@CarlOblander]

He doesn't know his head from his ass, so ohms law is a bit ahead of him.

[@lively_spirit_bbb]

I thought the big 3 included a bigger alternator to power extra sound system amps and such

[@FranciscoRodriguez-mp3vs]

Good video, Helped me out quite a bit!

[@KOIFLA]

Thanks for the email with the link from Sonic. I had no idea to check this. The wires do look under sized for big systems on some of the cars shown. My 91 Saab 900 has surprisingly large wires from battery to ground and the engine to the battery. The wire from the alternator is not big but it's short going to the starter. It doubles on a stud to the battle and the cable to the battery is large. I'm going to make a new wire from the alternators and see if I get better voltage readings. I'm planning on changing the 85 amp alternator to a 120amp which is all I can find that fits this car so the bigger wire would be a good idea.

[@elicoolestguy]

Could you show us how to add an inline fuse for the positive wire? Or would you route through the fuse box following the original wire?

[@Candisa]

You know why that "OEM block ground" is such a thin wire? Because it's not the block ground, it's the head ground that makes sure the spark plugs work despite there being a gasket between the head (that houses the plugs) and the block (to which the alternator and real block ground is attached)! So on that Celica, you only did 2/3 and gave the plugs mad ground! The real engine block ground is usually an uninsulated flat strip of woven copper/aluminium wires. Do you guys really think Toyota would pull the current for the starter trough that thin wire?

[@noanoxan]

There are metal bolts made of electrically conductive metal connecting the head to the block.

[@Candisa]

+moo. "Conductive"...

[@davelowe1977]

Candisa Amen. Video maker is stoned: cut him some slack.

[@alphasaiyan5760]

ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ ... exactly ... and grounded by ever single one of them.

[@crimpcreep6887]

My vw has a braided strap wire from head to body. If you need info. On this topic go to the real pro: Ron Francis web site. Set you straight!

[@estefanpadilla9236]

This video helped me alot after whatching 30 video before it. I couldn't understand but this video made my life alot less stressful and I got to learn in a way I understood and will always remember

[@GA-tl4iy]

Hi there, Thank you so much for a great Video, I learned a lot. Thanks again and god bless, Mike/ Canada

[@drivn4895]

"..now THIS is one of the ones where I'd say.... ueghhhhh... Have fun." lol

[@luisnegron8894]

That was the best.

[@RenePerez-pu4cj]

For the grounds, should you use the existing grounding spots that factory used or make new grounds? I heard talk of having shorter grounds because that's how grounds are meant to be.

[@chriscamp5190]

It should be ok as long as however you do it just make sure that the connections are solid on both the factory wires and the new ones

[@ThisIsSolution]

I like shorter wires, even though electrical resistance is basically the same

[@edikoli4117]

Men you explain everything very understandable thanks for your time it saved me so much money

[@Holler_Rat]

Great video! Thanks!

[@anthonyfernandez3310]

Why don’t you replace the stock wires?

[@Bilstereoshopen]

2:33. Leave the factory ground. Upgrade ground between altenator and ground in chassi at the same point as the battery/ground.

[@matthiasweber6341]

👍🏼

[@kevinjones7494]

I wouldn't recommend that. Adding a washer or etc may throw off the balance of the spin wheel. That can lead to wear and tare on the belt.

[@BeardedDaddyD]

@Darrell Hobbs its grounded to the engine that's why you ground the engine to the chassis. The new wire going to the alternator is a power wire

[@fiqmodu6917]

nice video ....i have done use that method in my car ....by using 300amp cable for grounding

[@thepitpatrol]

Very nice work, and often overlooked.

[@Patrick.Weightman]

2:40 because there should be quite a few of them, hidden all throughout. My v6 has like 4 about that size

[@chrisr5675]

If the alternator goes directly to the fuse box, should i run a new wire from the alternator directly to the battery or replace the wire from the alternator to the fuse box and also the one going from the fuse box to the battery? Sorry if the question is worded confusing.

[@realmearthheaven1257]

C L58 I have this issue, what did u do

[@hunteraguillard4528]

having your alternator run directly to your fuse box from factory is the same as having a fuse in line on your power wire. you would need to upgrade both in order for you to have any sort of benefit from it.

[@realmearthheaven1257]

Rin Kumiko I was told to just run a new ire straight from alternator to battery and leave the fuse box wire from alternator to the battery alone

[@michaelmorales3384]

Smart, really basic safe steps.Thanks ,audiosz.

[@premiere3610]

Awsome video! thank you very much.

[@fromstarlighttosunrise128]

i think the battery to chassis ground upgrade is a good idea. stock alternator already has good wiring and the block is already grounded to chassis via motor mounts

[@gbxmusicchannel3836]

This helped me alot to get rid of "alternator sound" in my speakers. Im also planning to do the block to ground and alternator to battery eventually but my alternator is pretty weak so don't know how much it will help.

[@MobileTaz]

The block is NOT grounded to the chassis via the motor mounts. The mounts have rubber or polyurethane bushings in them, which is why there is a block to chassis ground in the first place. Smdh.

[@fromstarlighttosunrise128]

MobileTaz funny u mention that now. last week my chassis ground melted and i put a huge cable from my battery to motor mount and another one from motor mount to chassis side of motor mount

[@jasonturner4625]

Be cautious on this advice. You need a fuseable link (or fuse or breaker) on the alternator wire. The ground should be two single point connections. One to the block and one to the chassis. All other devices should ground to the chassis. The dual ground he just created between the battery and the chassis made a ground loop. This is not good for system noise on the ecus or stereo. On the block side, most newer engines have a large ground near the starter and a small braided ground near the coils. This too is important as the braid reduces rfi created by the high voltage coils. It's not simply bigger is better. Done properly this will be more efficient, but it is not going keep the headlights from dimming. For this, a $50 ups battery installed near the amplifier will beat this hands down on improvement and cost.

[@julianayala03]

i was looking for someone to mention ground loops.

[@iamlegend81gaming]

Great video learned a lot.thanks

[@lawrencedavidson6195]

Great idea. Those three connections are prob. the most neglected major connections on a car. Gonna do my '92 EG Civic this weekend. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.

[@joelmatousek1817]

Lol, I looked up how to do this, and conveniently I have a Toyota Celica lol

[@Boxing007]

My 2005 Honda element has an alternator that has 105 amps. Which kit would you recommend?

[@jabroni6199]

The factory one it came with. This is totally useless unless you have an electrical load that needs it AND an upgraded alternator to keep up.

[@zorans5200]

@@jabroni6199 ... Completely useless application unless you plan on making your car into a towing truck..

[@jb3704]

Nice video! Thank you!

[@mandapalque]

Thank you very much for the video.

[@gabepettinicchio7454]

For the small increase in driving performance, is the inclusion of the Alternator necessary? Mine is buried at the bottom. If the Alt. is left out, wear is a good location for wire #3 to go, along with a 4th wire? I hope this is still being watched. I would greatly appreciate any help.

[@elijahlining5940]

It a big deal if you're not getting connection and your windows break one by one😂

[@batvette]

The factory charge wire is designed for the oem sound system. It may be inadequate if you upgrade to a higher power system, adding another may unleash additional power from your alternator.

[@AlmightyyCres]

could this also help with my head lights dimming when i raise the windows on my car? looks like this gives the car battery a very healthy flow of power.

[@demonclub7050]

Yes

[@jasonborden3194]

Yes that’s one of the reason a lot of people do this upgrade for ! Also this will help with battery life and alternator life because even if you just have a single subwoofer and amp and then on a really hot or if anyone is like me I pretty much have my a/c on all summer and when you got your a/c and most cars & trucks have electric radiator fans and 90% of the time when you run the a/c and this upgrade takes a major strain of your alternator and battery because if you don’t have this upgrade your charging system is always in a struggle to trying to push more current though the small stock wires and also the wiring is getting hot from the overload .

[@bassismygod9859]

Thanks bro i did mine myself .best big 3upgrade video

[@jameswendellmiller]

Such a good video! Really explained a lot

[@scott-michael812]

I dont quite remember but I couldve swore that a watched a SE video was a another big 3 video years ago but I thought he said the big 3 was upgrading wires, alternator and battery itself not just the wires to all 3!???

[@SonicElectronix]

+Scott-Michael Kellar Hmmmm, I don't think that was our video? The Big 3 Upgrade refers to only the upgrading of the wires associated with the vehicle's charging system. Of course, upgrading the alternator or battery can certainly be done at the same time as the Big 3 for a more substantial performance boost.

[@scott-michael812]

+Sonic Electronix gotcga

[@bacin87]

+Sonic Electronix do you ever do any install videos for the 2007 - 2014 Chevy Tahoe or Suburban? none of the videos I ever see pertain to my type of vehicle

[@Soderdna]

agreed. back in the day the big 3 was 1. Wires 2. Alternator 3. Battery

[@charliearroyo4809]

Its still the same,but some have more than 3 grounds under the hood. The bigger the ride the more grounds it has

[@elsniper23]

love how the little green cloth is on the battery 😂

[@milkmancow5]

That prevents corrosion

[@slybunda]

@@milkmancow5 really? will remember to put blanket over entire car to stop it rusting away.

[@MobileTaz]

@@slybunda Theyre treated with alkaline solution that neutralizes the acid and fumes that cause corrosion on the terminals, you fucking tool.

[@dadaUnts]

@@MobileTaz yup, absolutely correct, they sell those in Canadian tires as "battery terminal protectors"

[@christopherwilliams4647]

Great video! Great info! Thanks!

[@traviswood6615]

Great info! Thanks

[@BmwolotlE90]

does it have to be 0/1 awg wire? what about 4awg? my amp is only 600w max its alpine pdx m6 and subs are 2 12 inch infinitys

[@elmasduro780]

what you recommend 0 gauge or 4 gauge for the big 3 for my amp on the shop they install 4 gauge i have a lanzar optidrive 500x2 2000watts and a hifonic brutus 2400watts.

[@SonicElectronix]

+pepo la guira For that many amps / watts we would probably recommend 0 gauge for your Big 3.

[@elmasduro780]

+Sonic Electronix thanks

[@ralphpehrson]

+Sonic Electronix what about a 1000 watt bd t series rockford? mono block of course

[@ayers1724]

hi

[@noanoxan]

Use what you used to power the amp. It's that simple.

[@yellownp22541]

Thank you very much for the education I greatly appreciated.

[@michaellindsey31]

TRUE

[@calibomber209]

extreme daily driver channel just made a vid just like this , almost verbatim. this vid prob inspired him to make his own. great vid