Does Loctite Work? Shocking Results - The Ultimate test of Fasteners

So many times I get asked how to use Loctite - A little or a lot, blue or red, what about washers? I answer ALL of those questions and show you the torque it takes to loosen them. This test doesn't stop there though - I show you the benefit after the surprising results even I didn't expect!

[@bryancohn9406]

Some notes to add to this fantastic video Jesse: 1. I looked up the curing time for Loctite and its 24 hours. I didn't know that, like you I thought it was 2-3 hours and have operated under that idea for decades! Heat can speed curing time but has to be controlled, between 150F-250F. Less is no help, more cooks the Loctite and it no longer works. 2. Jet nuts (also called K-nuts in some aircraft circles) are supposed to be single use hardware. The wear rate of the threads on the egg shaped part of the nut is very high and after several uses can start to lose their resistance. 3. Nylocks also wear out but take longer to do so since the nylon is flexible. And of course nylocks are no good where heat is involved as the nylon is only good to about 250F. 4. As a rule of thumb I use Jet nuts 2-3 times before replacement as they are bloody expensive. I'll use a nylock till it spins on by hand: that does not mean it spins freely, just that I can turn it by hand onto a bolt or stud. Great video! I'm a hardware junikie that keeps loads of AN and MIL spec hardware on hand in my shop and love using Jet nuts where they make sense. I learned a bunch in your video.

[@bryancohn9406]

PS: How about a video on the differences between Grade 5, Grade 8 and AN/MIL/NAS bolts, washers and nuts and why certain bolts are used in certain places?

[@jpm]

Thanks Bryan. Might be worth doing a follow-up video on the same jig and letting them sit for that 24 hours. Differences in hardware, why the hardware store junk is not race quality in particular, would be good!

[@jonathanspiegel]

Just some tips here - Loctite needs to have an "active" metal surface to cure properly. The metal surface needs to be able to react chemically (which is kind of what the definition of "active" means in this case - electrically active - the material is able to shed ions) to properly cure. Most plating materials on bolts (things like zinc, but can be cadmium, or black oxide, etc...) make the material "passive" which is what helps prevent corrosion. Stainless steel is another material that is "passive", which is why it is rust resistant. With plated or stainless materials you absolutely must use a primer to get proper curing and maximum locking strength when using Loctite. Also, you want to use primer and Loctite on both the male and female threads, in this case the nut and bolt, and be sure to use enough to fill all the threads. I used to distribute chemicals for a Loctite competitor, learned all of this in the training, so thought I'd pass it along. Fun fact: Loctite and similar products are anaerobic - they need to have their oxygen supply cut off (which happens when you thread the pieces together) and have ions present, an active surface, to cure properly. The reason you have a cap on the Loctite bottle isn't to keep it from drying out or hardening, but only to keep it clean and from spilling out. Loctite packaging actually is breathable, and allows enough oxygen to pass through the plastic and keep it from hardening!

[@jpm]

This is why the Internet is great! I appreciate your explanation and taking the time to share that. I am planning on doing a second take on the Loctite video and will expand on the original scope and some other fasteners as well. Thanks again!

[@SV1HFK]

Hi, i am not a professional engineer but i do remember in a harware store someone telling me that while applying red loctite , fluid must not touch the bolt's thread , because a chemical reaction occurs wich then will be transferred to the rest of the fluid , inside the bottle, and will damage the whole loctite's substance. He suggested pouring it from a slight distance. Is that correct or it is simply an axaggeration to say that ? Thanks for any reply !!

[@jonathanspiegel]

The reaction won’t occur from just touching the metal. In order to cure, you not only need the metal ions, but there has to be a lack of oxygen as well. Loctite bottles are made of a breathable plastic so that oxygen molecules can actually penetrate and keep the reaction from occurring.

[@SV1HFK]

@@jonathanspiegel thanks for your answer to my question !!

[@joearledge1]

I've also heard that loctite expires or loses its potency with time, so if it's not used within 2 years of manufactur or within 1 year of purchase, it should be tossed... not sure if it's true or not

[@charlesbrewer6552]

Two days ago I had to dis-asseble an alternator stator that had been fixed wih 1/4" screws an loctite 262. It had been in place for 10 years. I had to use mulitple applications of propane gas flame to heat it to loosen the screws. You need to get it to 500 deg F to get it to move and as it cools it grabs again. 4 x phillips head screws took several hours to remove, Three came out with the screws in tact, the fourth one burred and I ended up using a dremel to cut a slot in it to get it our. An incredibly painful experience! When cured loctite works! Be careful with the red in case you want to pull it apart again!

[@kevinzuraf2161]

Can you repeat the Loctite portion of your test after a 24 hour or more cure time? I really appreciate your effort on making this video. Thanks

[@jpm]

Probably a good idea to see if it makes a difference. Others have mentioned other fasteners as well - will have to revisit this and put them to the test again. Thanks for watching!

[@ingeniousmechanic]

This was a really insightful comparison. Might I suggest repeating it, though, but instead of loosening the nuts with a wrench, lay the plate on the floor, and go over it evenly with an air hammer, or air chisel with a hammer bit. It's generally not the turning torque that causes backing off, but vibration and sometimes flexing. That would better compare real world expectations. Great value in this video, though!

[@jpm]

Good thoughts!

[@5jjt]

Interesting and useful video. Thanks for sharing.

[@binagarten4667]

Great stuff!

[@jaydee4175]

Keep up the great videos Jesse. 👍

[@jpm]

Thanks! Will do! Always trying to help out in my own small way.

[@karstenramcke6637]

Very interesting Video thank you so much

[@guyfranks4354]

My Isuzu Rodeo Factory Manual published by Helm states that after the application of threadlocker the technition should wait one hour before continuing with the assembly of the component being worked on.

[@offgrid2010]

Very helpful. Thank you!

[@jpm]

You're welcome!

[@heligeorge]

Thank you.

[@jpm]

You're welcome!

[@5jjt]

Loctite needs elements from metal to cause curing, so if the metal is coated in any way whatsoever, even anodized, it needs a loctite primer. Certain metals that are considered "Inactive" such as Staneless Steel, Pure Aluminum, Incolnel, precious metals, and more needs a loctite primer for loctite to cure.

[@jhholsworth]

Great video Jesse! Even as an engineer we weren't taught this

[@jpm]

At the end of it all, you are trying to keep the fastener in place - As I said, harmonics, vibrations and anything moving around multiplies the ability for fasteners to loosen up. Always happy to educate others - even engineers! Were you surprised by the results?

[@jhholsworth]

@@jpm oh 100% I always thought if you didn't want something breaking loose you would use red loctite. I was speechless when it tooks the same torque as everything else

[@jpm]

Exactly! You're not alone in thinking that!

[@lupo631]

Just two remarks: Based on the technical data sheet Loctite needs 24 h full cure time, not only three hours, what is called the functional cure time. Next thing is, that the blue Loctite (222) has a breakaway torque of 6 Nm (4.4 ft.lbs) and the red Loctite (243) has a breakaway torque of 26 Nm (19 ft.lbs). If you torque your bolts and nuts with 20 ft.lbs it is not cmparabel. The only reason for using thread locking fluids is what you said correctly in your video: preventing from loosening. Thanx for your effort! Great Video!

[@lupo631]

Oh, sorry, I just saw that a similiar comment was written by Bryan...;-)

[@lupo631]

I would like to add a few points to my previous remark: Screw locking with Loctite essentially serves three purposes: 1. Securing the preload 2. Loss protection (you mentioned this in the video) 3. Sealing of the screw connection. Many people think that a screw locking compound is only safe if it can be loosened with a very high torque. That's wrong. It secures a screw tightened under preload against loosening and thus loss of preload. The main decision as to which adhesive to use depends on various factors, such as the ambient temperature, the materials used such as brass, stainless steel, galvanized steel or black steel, and the load on the screw connection, i.e. vibration and tensile force. There are tables from the manufacturers that make the selection easier. Depending on the application, it is therefore necessary to decide what is optimal for securing the screw connection. A threadlocking adhesive must prevent a preloaded bolt from loosening, but that doesn't mean it must lock in the same amount of torque, which unfortunately many people misunderstand. You also have to decide whether you need a screw lock or a captive lock. Spring washers, serrated lock washers and toothed lock washers have proven to be ineffective safeguards, which is why they have been withdrawn from the ISO standards as suitable safeguards.

[@konjiki240sx]

I prefer vibra tite vc3 as it works on all metal types active or not. Nord locks are great for high vibration parts. Lastly for high temp stuff Copper jet nuts for turbo flanges or downpipes. t25 and t3/4 flanges used to drive me nuts on high rpm engines....

[@jpm]

Good stuff- thanks!

[@Alberts-64]

Great video Jesse, what about serrated flange nuts and bolts. I've used them quite often. As with the lock washer, has to be on harder material. Maybe even with a drip of locktite on them. Also the top lock flange nuts? Like to use those especially in high heat areas.

[@jpm]

Yeah, I touched on that in saying that they are good as long as you have the appropriate metal for it to bite into. If the right surface hardness is there, a drop of loctite would definitely help keep it from backing off, but being on the surface, not the threads,, it can spin freely if it backed off. There are many styles of fasteners and I think there is an opportunity to go through what I like to use, and why, in different applications - Thanks for the comment Shawn.

[@josephmoore4598]

Interesting video for a 60 yrear tech, iI will check out you other videos. I am havin an issue with bolts on a jonsered chainsaw backing out., and looking for solution. Maybe an idea here Ihaven't tried!

[@Live-life..]

That was very useful as I’ve seen some mechanics using it I am not mechanic but I like to learn my self about it I was like why people spend money on stuff like this I was wrong 😑

[@cam3002]

Just came across this even though it is 2 years ago. Interesting and informative. Jesse, what are your thoughts on Safety Wire and application when to use it? Maybe a video on the correct way to use Safety Wire?

[@jpm]

Boom! Here is a great video on exactly that! HOW TO: Safety Wire like a PRO! kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHeZmJKtrrl6Zpo

[@1yehny]

Did you prep with oil/grease remover? Most thread lockers instruct you to clean and dry first. I put the locktite at the top of the thread and move the nut down the screw.

[@rotorblade9508]

there is also loctite 270 high strength 180C temperature resistance. they say on the data sheet it gives 30Nm on a 10mm nut.

[@jpm]

I have found a few changes that we would do for this if we run it again. I even spoke to an engineer at Loctite that offered some good tips. Thanks for watching!

[@rotorblade9508]

@@jpm 👍

[@mrsfireleg]

The blue/red Loctites, just WHERE do the different strengths take effect? At the “break away” or at the “free spinning after the break away”. Both the red and blue had about the same “break away” force. So there doesn’t seem to be a strength difference there. Is the strength difference in the “free spinning”area? Thanks, great vid.

[@roberthenry9319]

Awesome. Thank you. It is a no brainer to subscribe to JPM Performance.

[@jpm]

Much appreciated!

[@bryanrocker5033]

A very good test using many different fasteners. As a retired USAF jet engine mechanic I know of many different ways to secure hardware. Locknuts are my #1 but running a damn close #2 is safety wire. If you use a good quality safety wire they may stretch but they won't break except in extreme forces. The other way you don't see as often is tab washers (many different types. There would be a slot somewhere for the tab to connect to such as a small hole in the structure and then after torqueing the tab(s) are bent up against the nut preventing movement. I would second the 24 hour curing time of loctite. The red should require a torch and other such things to break it free.

[@jpm]

Great to read all of the comments on here about other experiences with fasteners! I’m always learning new ways to be better and faster!

[@williamquick1326]

Nice.

[@spankymagee]

Sir, you just won a subscription.

[@jpm]

Just trying to help the Everyman/woman out there by showing you how I do it. Glad you came aboard!

[@schuylerpryne5]

Nordlock washers blow everything else out of the water. They arent cheap and only used in critical applications. Youd swear every fastener is gonna break when they pop open. Id guess red aneroibic locker and nord locks would never come out with the bolt head undamaged.

[@smackela]

Great video with very useful content (though my wife thinks I'm really strange for spending my Saturday night watching a video about breakaway torques on fasteners!) What's your experience and opinion, if any, regarding Nord-Lock washers?

[@jpm]

Nord-lock washers are good for certain uses and have their own set of requirements to work well. If used properly, they are similar to a serrated nut, but with more oomph, if that makes sense. While I didn't test one, I am thinking it would similar to a lock washer for holding the nut tight until the two Nord-lock washers can separate, then the nut can spin freely. Do you use them? If so, what has your experience been?

[@smackela]

@@jpm I don't use them (yet, anyway). I just sold my F Prod car and bought a Formula 500. A lot of F500 guys seem to swear by the Nord-lock washers due to the amount of vibration in these cars. Never having used them before, I saw this video and immediately thought, "Hey, it'd be cool to see how they work compared to the other options out there." I've generally been a Loctite user up until now, but have never tested the effectiveness of various methods the way you did. Thanks again for taking the time to do it (and if you ever do another one and want to throw some Nord-locks into the mix, I won't complain!)

[@jpm]

Appreciate you watching and will add that into the mix down the road.

[@Kevin-zo6nz]

Loctite needs 24 hours to cure. Test data is obsolete

[@darlinglionheart4195]

Thanks for the comparisons, I learned a lot about the initial 5 combinations you showed. I really appreciated the scientific approach until you blew that out of the water by winging it on the Loctite curing. I just came from their channel's "in the lab" series -- a great 7min on how to apply & how it works, BTW -- looking to see a real-world comparison. Your conclusions led to a slight misrepresentation on Loctite Blue and a heavy one on Loctite Red. As others have mentioned, its full cure time is 24hrs. Set time is only 10min. When you do another video on this (I don't see one yet), please mention that Blue is made to be removed with hand tools, and Red (once cured & used on compatible materials per jonathanspiegel below) *requires* heat. Thus if folks walked away from your video and figured "I'll go with the red/washer solution just in case", they might end up in some real trouble if that fastener needs removed later. Also good to mention that both provide great corrosion resistance, which is great to know since non-corrosive materials seem exclusive from the target application set, based on the ideal curing conditions.

[@jpm]

Good stuff here. I have mentioned that this video was educational on many fronts including my own. Doing a true and proper test has expanded the scope beyond anything I ever thought, but it clearly is needed to be done! Good point on the corrosion resistance.

[@Green_Expedition_Drgn]

Awesome video 💯‼️ Would love to see a video like this on studs. Especially, why they are used instead of a bolt. I have always wondered why my Ford exhaust manifold the stud has a lower torque rating than the nut. Seems backwards to me. Thanks!

[@jpm]

Good thought - I appreciate the ideas, you might just see that!

[@Bulletz4Breakfast13]

Threadlocker needs to cure for 24-48 hours to properly maintain it's hold. I know for a fact it will be much harder to remove than nylock. Make sure those nuts are new. I don't use washers. Red locktite will require 5x the holding strength to breakaway a nut than 242 blue and can't be removed with hand tools unless you heat it to 350°F with a torch or you spray the red Threadlocker with chlorinated brake parts cleaner (CRC brakeleen red can) . Orange 21520 will have 3x as much as blue but still removable like blue. Green is similar to Blue being medium strength but is wicking so it's applied after the fasteners are torqued. You should redo this test so you can see the difference. Threadlocker is noticed most when the fasteners are torqued above 100ft-lbs.

[@jpm]

Appreciate the tips. I am always learning and this video has taught me a thing or two from the comments alone!

[@williamfrench9973]

You are correct about the cure time - but that is only half the story. It can take 24-72 hours to cure completely, but with most metals, it reaches a very high percentage of cure in an hour, 90%+ in 3 hours. So I think his testing is still valid. Fun fact… most structural concrete will reach 90% strength in 30 days, but will never finish curing. Even as the concrete crumbles decades later, the chemical reaction is still underway.

[@dangileri8389]

awesome comparison, but I couldn't help but wonder about the vice setup. Is it just on a grinder stand?

[@jpm]

It is some big scraps welded together that allow me to move the vice where I need it. Much more sturdy than a grinder stand.

[@ralphlambda5359]

@@jpm that’s awesome. Would love a shop tour of the shop itself, some of the tools you use, etc it seems like such a well sorted place

[@dangileri8389]

@@jpm Cool, thanks for the response. I agree with the other commenter. Not sure if you have a shop tool tour, but I would watch one! Got here by watching your video on trailer prep for a race day, would be interesting to see how you prep the shop for certain jobs

[@jpm]

@@dangileri8389 Good idea guys. I'll put a shop tour for tools on my list of things to get done. Thanks!

[@lordvonzipstor5304]

Just my 2 cents here guys, I havent read the other comments so I apologise if I'm doubling up. I don't believe that locktite is designed to resist untorquing, I believe it's only designed to fill the tolerance gap used to ease the threading that will remain after the lock is torqued up on the thread. Hence the vibration retalience as the transients going through metal are hight, for example in an engine reving high, therefore those can compromise your "to the T" fastening in those exposed situations. I don't believe that Locktite will accentuate the grit or add any more resistance of any form if you are untorquing, just like the global misconception suggests. ps: I came to this video by accident as I was actually looking for a way to avoid treading the threads of my injectors that I'm trying to remove and will now look for something not as strong as super glue as this one is a real b*****stard to remove unless you heat it up, but can be considered

[@jpm]

I appreciate your thought being added on here. If anything, I have found there is a gap in knowledge on many people part - including mine. While it may not increase the torque much, it does do something to hold the fastener in place. Increased torque would be a byproduct of that function, in my mind. We are getting into some physics here, it outs appear! What really happens? I don’t know, but clearly this simple test was not enough to determine a clear winner, as I was expecting! Thank for accidentally watching and appreciate the additional thoughts. Best of luck with the injector!

[@lordvonzipstor5304]

@@jpm Yeah no worries mate, indeed mechanical engineering skills applied on this compound. It's not much, as it's just a paste that fills the gaps, avoiding the micro vibes to gradually make the bolt to let go and allowing easy untorkinng. I know well this problem as once, my harmonic balancer lodged itself out as the mechanic did not put any loctite on its bolts, resulting in complete seizure of the engin costing me a full rebuild of the cylender head. To allow the bolt to resist to untorquing, as in, shear force, cyanorcilate is an excellent option, as well as epoxy off course. Reserves here as this method would imply reingeneering. In consideration to my injector, I am now looking into tapping it back to a smaller size and having an insert, or either an helicoil in there to allow extraction, as its possibly wiser. I would then be able to remount it that way, not too sure about the pressure it can hold off, doing some research now.

[@PatrickLipsinic]

You plan on doing a safety wire video?

[@jpm]

Not a bad idea - Lots of little tricks there. Can't tell you how many times I have seen it done wrong.

[@PatrickLipsinic]

@@jpm there's a aircraft mechanics page on Facebook that I'm part of. There are people always sharing bad safety wire work on aircraft

[@PatrickLipsinic]

I use safety wire on a few things on the race car one of which is the bolts that hold the inlet restrictor on my Turbo. I actually use safety cable on that cuz it's a lot easier than safety wire

[@Swapnil_Modi]

Please share detail about your Spanner

[@jpm]

It is a Snap On 3/8" digital torque wrench. Pretty decent tool that I use quite a bit.

[@nightowl5473]

Interesting comparison to look at how much preload goes into bolt stretch. However, this is not really a good test of what happens to each of those types of installations under their real-world load conditions. In other words, how do each of those joints perform when subjected to vibration loosening. My bet is that the drop of loctite between the washer and plate does nothing other than waste a drop of loctite.

[@jpm]

Valid question. The test does need to be redone soon and will look at adding more to it the next time.

[@timbo_slice4053]

Great video but you didn't let the loctite cure.

[@jpm]

Yeah, There is a plan for a future video with a list of changes to the procedure and the fasteners. Keep watching!

[@stihlpro2401]

That is not how lock/split washer work. Please do more research before making a video.

[@NEMOJA]

Cure time is way off as well

[@KimballPrecisionRifles]

@@NEMOJA video is basically pointless.

[@Xbot4Life]

def 24 hours, 3 hours wont really do anything. I got some stuff curing right now, only on the 6th hour.

[@garyderoy]

There is so much wrong with this demonstration. Not just the 3 hours drying time and (likely) improper lock washers, but all you've proven is how much force is needed to unscrew nuts the way you screwed them in. You haven't fastened anything together and this has nothing to do with vibrating loose. There may be a correlation, but you haven't shown it.

[@jpm]

You are not wrong. It has been discussed quite a bit about how it could be done and even chatted with an engineer from locktite. Thanks for taking the time to comment and watching!

[@douglassleonard2843]

You forgot about heat , nylock is junk for almost everything fyi

[@jpm]

You are right about nylock in a high-temp environment - Definitely not a good thing. I wouldn't call it junk for everything though.

[@float6969]

I'm in the pool and spa industry by trade, automotive performance by hobby. The pool and spa industry uses SS Nylock A LOT. They're a great product for our applications. The vibrations and heat cycles from pool pumps and pool heaters is very comparable to what's seen in automotive applications. The big difference is the overall temps. Nylock's don't work on anything on or near the exhaust side of the engine, but everywhere else, I think they're a good solution. For all of the "locking" methods, I think the Nylock nut provides the most re-uses without thread damage.

[@AgelessNomad]

Seems like rust wins

[@jpm]

Yes, but it takes a lot of time and never in a concentrated spot!

[@glenwhatley7366]

It's twenty four hours for loctite to dry. Your test is seriously flawed.

[@jpm]

Yeah, the testing procedure has been talked about here in the comments and I agree. There are a few other things that I would change if we do it again. Thanks for watching!

[@arctic004]

Sorry, not a very good coverage.iI do appreciate the effort though. Some issues are 1)hardness of your base plate; 2) flat washer negates lockwasher as it will turn on plate; 3)correct cure times not noted/followed; 4)jetnuts just one type of special type of nut. Some are much more tenacious such as the ones with the oval hole or the ones with multiple wedge-shaped cuts all around the circumference;5)tensile strength of bolt since low strength mean more torque needed to stretch but also a higher modulus so won't stay stretched therebt losing the applied torque etc.

[@johnroberts3824]

Not sure this is a useful test. Various methods to lock a nut are not so that it requires increased torque to loosen. Rather the intent is that the nut does not loosen on its own due to vibration or heating/cooling cycles. If we were just concerned about breakaway torque, then the bare nut demonstrates that no type of "locking" mechanism is needed. We all know that's not true. Should run one more exact test, but vibrate the hell out of it.

[@tommyhillfiger3346]

Loctite....24hrs. Botched video, loctite wasn't cured buddy...

[@erdemir5641]

"what is this telling us here" 😂😂 it's telling you that you didn't wait long enough for loctite to set. Why not just delete this pointless video

[@jpm]

Thanks for watching! You actually tell me the exact reason I don’t delete this video. A lot was learned and the comments about the how and why of it all, plus other fasteners to try! This is a gold mine of information. Who would be crazy enough to delete that?!?