Does Sensor Size Affect Aperture? | Ask David Bergman

Today's question from Jay G. is, "I'm thinking about buying the Canon R7 alongside my R6. Are there any consequences on the aperture of normal RF lenses if they are put on the new APS-C Canon R7? For example: If I put on my RF 85mm F2 lens, will it still be F2 on the R7? Or will the maximum aperture be slower? Sorry if this is a noob question, but I hope you can help me!! Thanks for your great content! Jay from the Netherlands."
Go to www.AskDavidBergman.com to submit your own photo question, see David's gear list, and view the episode archive.
00:00 Intro
01:17 What is a crop-sensor camera?
01:38 Why is it called 35mm film?
02:22 Why make smaller sensors?
03:31 Capturing a smaller portion of the image
04:17 Field of View vs. focal length
05:21 Does aperture change on a crop sensor?
08:08 Does exposure change on a crop sensor?
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING!

[@beppuccio7803]

only David Bergman can explain stuff so sharply! Finally understood the topic!

[@jeroenvdw]

So basically it's the same aperture, but because of the crop you need to move back to get the same results as full frame, which will make the DoF larger. So in the end if you want a really narrow DoF it's better to get a larger sensor camera with an appropriate lens.

[@oo0Spyder0oo]

I always steer away from channels that make out that the crop factor is a zoom of sorts, that your 100mm lens on a full frame is now capable of zooming to 160mm etc. There are people even using the apc crop option on the R5/R6 with an ef lens going around saying they’ve gained extra zoom because of that ‘feature’. People seem unable to grasp it’s the same image as a full frame simply trimmed to a smaller window. Good on you for not belonging to that crowd.

[@doctorstrobe]

That's right! The F-stop number is a formula calculated from a ratio between the focal length and the diameter of the aperture. The amount of light per square unit of the sensor surface is not affected by the size of the sensor.

[@alastairtheduke]

I love how he explained that both the focal length and the aperture are properties of the lens. Which make sense. And since the F number is just a ration of these like you said, it makes total sense that sensor size doesn't affect the F stop at all.

[@okaro6595]

@@alastairtheduke The problem is that many think it affects the focal length but not the aperture. They think MFT 12-35 f/2.8 is like FF 24-70 f/2.8.

[@Dorset_Dave]

Much better reasoning and explanation, than a certain KZbin photography couple. ;)

[@davidescalambra2726]

Right! Never mentioning that the brightness of the final image is the same is disingenuous. Many people might feel the need to spend a lot more money just to get a ff with a fast lens just because of this.

[@NickWeissMusic]

Sorry, but Tony’s video is 100% correct, most people just want to add in another variable to think they’re proving him wrong lol. The f numbers are correct assuming the manufacturer labeled them correctly. The ***depth of field*** is DIFFERENT at the SAME DISTANCE with the same f stop, for different sensor sizes. The physics have not changed, however, the depth of field in the final photograph, will appear to be deeper than that on a full frame lens at the same distance and f stop number. that’s all Tony was proving, which he did. If you think you can compensate by this by moving the camera toward or away from the subject, then you are discarding the concept of field of view/compression, which is utter nonsense to any actual photographer, although is does make for likes by people who don’t want to spend money on full frame ;)

[@MrGirbes]

I really like this explanation. Just missing one small thing to make it complete. There are actually 2! factors directly impacting te DOF. which is: distance to subject and diameter (or better surface) of your aperture (in mm ). However we don't set our diameter of the aperture we set a numerical value (the numerical aperture ) which is a value of the diameter of the aperture (mm) in relation to the focal length (mm) (and therefore has unit of measurement behind it). Which basically comes down to this: a f2.0 at 125mm has a smaller size aperture then a f2.0 at 200mm. That is why the DOF at f2.0 at 125mm is bigger then at 200mm (also when you keep al the other variables the same). The size at 125mm is just smaller. the numerical aperture (f-number) is designed to be used in exposure: so in a certain light condition both lenzes wil have the same F-stop (with the same shutterspeed and iso). Which is handy if we e.g. zoom.

[@alastairtheduke]

Yeah fair enough. I think we as viewers anecdotally know this, but yeah, good clarifiation.

[@anthonyk27]

This was the best explanation of aputure in relation to crop sensors I have ever heard. Thank you so much!!!

[@nelsono4315]

my first DSLR was the Canon 40D. A fine camera but quite noisy at high ISOs. I was doing music photography using available light only. Nowadays I use only full frame bodies because they are better in handling high ISOs. Because of that I purchased the Canon 24-105 f4 instead of the 24-70 f2.8. I preferred the longer reach knowing I could crank up the ISO if needed without any worries. In daylight situations an APS-C body is fine. In low light I'll take full frame any day.

[@waisooncheah]

Very concise and accurate technical explanation of the aperture. I think as many are not too bothered about digging deep into technicality of the matter. What we get confuse a lot of times is we associate aperture with DOF/bokeh, no matter the field of view, the background is blurrier when we bring down the aperture. Hence, it’s natural that many get confused as that’s what we are taught when we start playing with settings of cameras as noobs. Ultimately, what normal people hope to achieve is that "professional" look. An APFC sensor owner when standing side by side with FF camera owners, at the same distance + zooming to the same framing + same aperture, will expect crop sensor camera pictures to have same bokeh as full frame 1s, but it just isn’t the case. So naturally, its easier to form a conclusion bigger the sensor = better camera, Aperture = DOF bokeh. The reality is sale people will just hammer this idea on novice, as it means selling more expensive gear. Sale tactic 101, “ if you can’t convince the customer, confuse them!”

[@elzafir]

When using an equivalent focal length, an 35mm f/2 lens on an crop sensor is still gonna be f/2, but it won't perform (noise level at the same ISO & DOF) like a 50mm f/2 mounted on a full frame, because the 52% of the light gathered by the lens is cropped out by the crop sensor and DOF is gonna be deeper because of the shorter focal length. When using the same focal length like a 50mm f/2 on both bodies, then it will have the same noise level & DOF, but different FOV. There's always a compromise. So that's why someone shooting exclusively on a crop sensor should not use full frame lens, as you'd get all the hassle (weight, size, price) but only some of the benefits.

[@okaro6595]

If you use the equivalent focal length you should use also the equivalent aperture if you are interested in the image quality and the depth of field. If you only are interested in the field of view then you can ignore the aperture. A 35 mm f/2.0 lens is always 35 mm f/2.0 but on crop it is equivalent to roughly 50 mm f/2.8.

[@kgnash]

I've been stating (and teaching) this for some time. Often with strong resistance. Thanks for the validation and simple explanation.

[@ronvillarrealphotography]

Always appreciate the way you explain something so that my brain can understand it. Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.

[@NeonShores]

Thank you! I feel like I've been beating my head against a wall when trying to explain these things. Distance to subject affects DOF, not sensor size...and you show this perfectly with the book example. And while smaller sensors aren't as good in lowlight because of photosite size, the amount of light hitting the sensor from a given aperture is the same!

[@Sertao2013]

At 8:39 you said the brightness of my image doesn't change if i'm only capturing a smaller part of the image . That is not a correct statement . The big advantage of the full frame is that it does let in more light and that's why you don't have to go to a higher iso setting . On the crop sensor to let in the same amount of light you have to open the aperture to match the brightness of the bigger sensor or you have to raise up the iso setting . This is why people say to get the same exposure on a crop sensor you have to open the aperture up 2.2 or 2.5 to match a 2.8 on a full frame sensor to get the same exposure . If you leave the aperture the same you will see the image will be darker on the smaller sensor . Smaller sensor less light in bigger sensor more light . If your lens is a max 2.8 you are not going to be able to match the exposure of the full frame . Your exposure is going to be darker and it will be the same as the full frame set at 3.2 . Thats why people say a 2.8 on a crop sensor is really a f 3.2 when it comes to exposure . Its really a simple test . Set up a full frame and a crop side by side , use the same lens set the full frame at 2.8 and set the iso to 100 and use the shutter speed to get the exposure in the middle and take a shot . Move the lens to the crop camera and use the same settings as you did with the full frame camera . Right off the bat you are going to see that to get the exposure in the center you are going to have to use a slower shutter speed to get the exposure to the center because it will show it as underexposed . This proves that more light is getting to the full frames sensor vs the crop sensor . So a 2.8 on a crop sensor does not let in the same amount of light as a full frame camera . On a crop sensor your are really seeing a 3.2 setting . I hope that helps clear things up .

[@flaviotaneli9138]

I think you’re wrong. The amount of light that goes through a lens has nothing to do with whatever is attached to it after light went through all optical elements. This is exactly what David shows at 6:29. Same ss, same aperture, same iso = same image. Once the light went through the last optical element of the lens, nothing can change its brightness. This is also the reason why metabones increase the brightness, it’s because in that case you are adding optical elements that condense the image on a smaller surface, thus making it brighter.

[@fountainvalley100]

Awesome job explaining the subject.

[@felixrodriguez782]

great way of clearing that subject in a manner that directly affects the understanding of full frame to crop sense does not affect the lens only distance to match the same of the subject to get the same image from different sensors Shooting images is a choice of what one wants to capture with what you have on hand thanks DAVID another good one

[@PavlosPapageorgiou]

You gave the technical answer, but I'm not sure if that's what Jay wanted to know. He may be asking, if I use my full frame 85mm f2 lens on an R7 will it produce the same images as a 135mm f2 lens on full frame? Answer: No, it'll produce the same images as a 135mm f3.2 lens on full frame. From the point of view of exposure it'll behave like an f2 but for bokeh, depth of field etc. it'll render like a 135mm f3.2.

[@phrasalsyntax]

not sure if from the point of view of exposure the FF lens will behave like an f2 on the R7 since the APS-C sensor is capturing only a fraction of the FF total image circle, hence the R7 sensor is capturing a only fraction of the total light that the FF lens can project. I would say that the exposure has been reduced to a f3.2 equivalent in FF terms but I am not totally sure.

[@vegaryfoss179]

@@phrasalsyntax no, exposure is NOT affected, It will be exactly the same

[@okaro6595]

@@phrasalsyntax Exposure is about the light intensity, not about the total right gathered. If the exposure was different on APS-C then it would also be different at the center of an image taken in a full frame camera.

[@acrummey85]

This is the best explanation of this that I have seen.

[@thomasclark631]

Excellent explanation, especially the reference to zooming in or out which is equivalent to varying the distance from sensor to subject. Distance to subject along with aperture and focal length determine depth of field. Aperture is the one physical metric that is shared by both exposure and depth of field.

[@RockyColaFizz]

Best explanation on this ever. Thank you.

[@SteveSmith-yc9ss]

Thank you, first time I've heard it explained in a way I could understand.

[@cameronlindsay1329]

Finally someone answered this regarding exposure, I have been looking for ages!

[@jhenry248]

Thanks for the confirmation yourexplanation made sense of it all. I have the R7and R , put my RF f/1.8 35mm on the R7 , 56mm equivalent and the f/1.8 50mm on the R set the aperture wide open and iso 100 for both. I adjusted the shutter speed using the exposure meter to balance out the exposure and ironically they both have the same shutter speed at 320 and being an overcast day in my location the histogram were very similar.

[@DetRiley]

Great course David, thank you !!

[@canucklehead28]

Absolutely brilliant David!

[@alone-ot9sn]

I've watched so many videos on youtube about this topic but the only one that was really helpful was yours. Thanks for that❤

[@jeroengroter]

Thanks for your elaborate and very clear answer to my question David!!

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Thanks for sending it in!

[@jimkearns534]

Thank you! I have stated this to other photographers so many times and many don't get it. That lens casts the same light and image on sensors regardless of how large or small they are.

[@Joh146]

Thank you for the clear words.

[@girishkumar5273]

Finally you cleared all doubts. Thank you brother

[@willparsons32]

That last remark you made was absolutely bang on! Regardless of what type of sensor or lens or..... You use, at the end of the day, you get that perfect shot, nobody really cares about the tools, (people associate tools with work and who wants to think about work when you're admiring a spectacular photo?!?) they just want to simply admire your work...I, I, I mean photo!!

[@garyrowe58]

I'm nerdy on this stuff and was wondering what would be said... but this was spot on, a pleasure to listen to. Thanks.

[@ck.standard]

Thanks David! Extremely helpful, as always

[@TheKingPrawn114]

That final statement was perfect. Thank you.

[@jtinoco9859]

Bravo!! Once and for all someone with the experience and knowledge has put this urban legend to rest.

[@chrispatmore8944]

Hooray!! Finally a photographer on KZbin that gets it right. As a M4/3 user, there’s a lot of BS about how they have”terrible depth of field” when compared with “full frame”. They have greater depth of field because the focal lengths of the lenses are half that of “full frame” for the same angle of view, so of course the depth of field is going to be deeper. It’s basic physics. Thanks for clearing it up. I hope more people see this and all the online nonsense and misinformation can finally stop.

[@paulknight7789]

Chris, I couldn't agree more. I too am a M4/3 shooter and people still say things like, your f/1.4 is really only f/2.8. No it is not, it is f/1.4. Thanks David for not only explaining it so clearly, but proving it with a very good example.

[@bamsemh1]

@@paulknight7789 20mm 1.4 lens?

[@d.williams2568]

THANK YOU!...THANK YOU!...THANK YOU!...GAWD-ALMIGHTY, THANK YOU DAVID!... "F/2 is F/2 is F/2..."!!!!!... "Why is this even a question?...." Well, because a couple of years ago there was a con-artist Y/T husband and wife "photography guru" team and a bald, slap-headed "camera expert" troll who made a series of videos and back/forth arguments on the topic where they almost PURPOSEFULLY avoided the concept of BASIC PHYSICS and OPTICS, kids!!!... (And yes i called them out on their channels using the concepts that David just put out again...) These concepts/theorems/"laws of light" don't change when using different lenses/cameras-bodies/etc, what changes is how WE/Photographers try and make all these combinations LOOK THE SAME, when they are NOT THE SAME!... It shreds the physics/optics, and you get MIS-MATCHED exposures/DOF/Fields-of-View which everyone shouts about: "SEE, it doesn't work!..." Okay rant over (for the moment..) Thanks David and Chris for a really good video/comment...📷📸🤓

[@MontanaJim]

I'm right there with you. If a person was math inclined the formula shows its a simple ratio.

[@BrentODell]

I used Olympus for years, and this always bugged me, as well. Happy to see it explained so well.

[@AK-hk2pd]

Thank you for your time, well done

[@AdventureTimeLoui]

So helpful and straight to the points! Thanks!

[@craigpiferphotography]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! You have concisely said what I've been saying for years. I don't know where the mis-information got started, but hopefully this can help to put an end to some of it. Your depth of field comparison really hit the nail on the head - sensor size doesn't affect DOF and never has.

[@d.williams2568]

THANK YOU!...THANK YOU!...THANK YOU!...GAWD-ALMIGHTY, THANK YOU DAVID!... "F/2 is F/2 is F/2..."!!!!!... "Why is this even a question?...." Well, because a couple of years ago there was a con-artist Y/T husband and wife "photography guru" team and a bald, slap-headed "camera expert" troll who made a series of videos and back/forth arguments on the topic where they almost PURPOSEFULLY avoided the concept of BASIC PHYSICS and OPTICS, kids!!!... (And yes i called them out on their channels using the concepts that David just put out again...) These concepts/theorems/"laws of light" don't change when using different lenses/cameras-bodies/etc, what changes is how WE/Photographers try and make all these combinations LOOK THE SAME, when they are NOT THE SAME!... It shreds the physics/optics, and you get MIS-MATCHED exposures/DOF/Fields-of-View which everyone shouts about: "SEE, it doesn't work!..." Okay rant over (for the moment..) Thanks David and Craig for a really good video/comment...📷📸🤓 (yes, this a copy/paste comment from a response to another comment, but is really does bear repeating!...)

[@michelecintramika8482]

But does sensor size affect light? For example: Does a Fujifilm XF 50mm f1 receive the same light on the crop sensor as a Canon EF 50mm f1 on a full frame sensor? Or will the Fujifilm crop sensor have to increase the ISO to compensate?

[@littleshubunkin7926]

Good explanation. Thanks.

[@donho6523]

thanks for the concise explanation!

[@rickfarber4243]

Very good explanation.

[@ownvideofootage]

Finally a good explanation. Thanks

[@kevindiossi]

There are MANY professionals and other KZbinrs out there that can’t seem to understand this concept that you so nicely demonstrated. I blame a particular KZbinr for deliberately creating confusion and click bait on a video on this topic years ago. People started citing it in articles and it very clearly caused a lot of confusion by design so people would comment on the video. I like that you didn’t try to be misleading at all and were purely factual. It’s a all a relationship of distance to subject, focal length, and aperture. You can achieve the “look” of full-frame on APS-C…but the lens has to be comparable to a full-frame lens. For instance, the Fujifilm XF33mm f/1.4 will provide a very similar field of view to a 50mm full frame lens and have the depth of field similar to (roughly) f/2. The lens/camera will still meter true for f/1.4 and NOT f/2.

[@simoneciani316]

Yes but ... 1) You stil have a focal lenght of 33 vs 50. So you have the distortion of a 33. If I shoot with a 24 on FF, for the same FOV you must use a 12mm. Good luck with the distortions, weight and cost of that lens... 2) If a FF shoot a scene, to get the same result in composition, beside having a shorter focal lenght you have to step back. And that affect your DOF. So, for example, If we are together and I have a FF with a 35mm F1.4, to get the same result you have to go a lot behind me (if that's possible...) and using a 17mm F/non existing. They're not comparable. They're just for different jobs.

[@alastairtheduke]

@@simoneciani316 a 12mm aps-c specific lens, I could see how the distortions would be larger, i'll give you that point. But aps-c lenses are lighter and cheaper. Or am I not understanding your point?

[@PodgeeWheaverPhotography]

Amazing bit of info! Couldn’t agree more with use what you have/ can afford attitudes… I shoot Olympus micro4/3s and no one can tell the difference when viewing online or once i’v printed my work. I’v shot on iPhone and people assumed it was my camera not a phone! ✌🏻

[@NebulaChavez]

Great info David...YOU ROCK

[@250GTOAJ]

Thanks for the good information!

[@paulsophocleous2544]

Excellent explanation!

[@anthonyfuller1117]

Great video. Great info. Thanks!

[@31427216]

Great video, this complements the one of Tony Northrop on the same topic. Now I get it much better than before. Thanks a lot!

[@entrigueall2661]

Excellent response thanks

[@bala1000mina]

David, you're awesome man! Thank you so much David and Adorama for always giving precious information to the world! God bless you all!

[@masterstonesettermagnussva7636]

Finally someone that knows what he is talking about!!!! Well explained David!

[@sdega315]

OMG! "SCSI Cable" to paraphrase Obi Wan Kenobi... That's a name I have not heard in a long time. 😂

[@chapstyleusa476]

Great professional video! Clarifies everything in 10 minutes!

[@gregpantelides1355]

Brilliant!!!! Thank you, David!

[@menonphotography]

Lovely explanation 👌 👍

[@berndsczepanski]

Love your explanations as allways.... greetings from germany

[@ridiculosvisuals9921]

Well put together video

[@Luna-cf3op]

Best explanation ever!

[@jorshhh]

This is my biggest quirk with KZbin photographers. Looking at you Tony Northrup. They are so good at confusing new photographers.

[@Lesterandsons]

I think their video is absolutely not for newbies, equivalence is not an obvious subject.

[@gabedamien]

Northrup's video is perfectly correct, it is just that people get confused about the takeaway. Everything in this video and everything in Northrup's video are 100% correct, just explaining the multiple variables from different starting points or frames of reference. A very simple summary is this: A 50mm f/2 lens on MFT (2x crop factor) will render the exact same field of view and depth of field as a 100mm f/4 lens on full frame. The mistake is when people claim that a 50mm f/2 lens on MFT is equivalent to a 100mm f/2 lens on FF. Not at all! The latter has far more background blur wide open for an otherwise identical framing! And this is without moving your tripod!

[@kurtozan251]

Great video BERGMAN!!!

[@ThatGuyGriff.]

When comparing the aperture’s effect on depth of field and exposure between full-frame and APS-C cameras, it is common to use the concept of “equivalent aperture.” For example, an f/2.8 aperture on a full-frame camera is roughly equivalent to f/1.8 on an APS-C camera in terms of depth of field and light gathering, considering the crop factor (typically 1.5x or 1.6x for APS-C sensors). So technically the aperture doesn’t change physically, but it does alter it in comparison.

[@mdw1927]

Camera companies can be forgiven for there marketing misinformation as it is there job is to sell cameras. However so called pro photographers that propagate these myths are either ignorant of physics or really do not understand how cameras and lenses work. Thank you David for your excellent explanation.

[@Lesterandsons]

Équivalence is back 😀 so f/ vs aperture diameter... When one wants same perspective, angle of view, and depth of field, aperture diameter must stay the same, so f/ have to change. And to keep exposure the same, time or iso must decrease/increase. If ISO changes noise is the same, if you change exposure time you modify noise. There's no free lunch as usual. When you think equivalent formats, Think in absolute aperture diameter in mm.

[@Reviews4fun1]

Crop bodies at the same megapixel rating win in telephoto reach retaining resolution. I use my crop body for birds and sports and get 1.5x equivalent additional zoom, with a full frame lens.

[@okaro6595]

Yes, a crop body works much like a tele converter but without extra glass added. Also in video crop bodies may win as it is harder to crop video in post.

[@outtathyme5679]

Great question

[@AllThingsFilm1]

Thanks for this video. I just shared this with another KZbin content creator who always "adjusts" the aperture in his videos when he talks about shooting with an crop sensor camera. This misconception still pops up on videos every so often and its frustrating to watch knowing that new users are being led astray. Thank you.

[@craigroethler1495]

Thanks!

[@TheJewellian]

the definitive video on this subject

[@patatipatata9726]

Good content. Thanks

[@ricban1950]

All lenses focused to the same distance with the same aperture have the same depth of field. To demonstrate this take a photo of a bottle using a zoom lens. At the max zoom fill the frame with the bottle. Take a shot. Then, from the same position at the widest focal length take another shot. Then produce an image from each with the bottle filling the print size. Examination of the two will show identical depth of field (ignore any pixelation).

[@masterstonesettermagnussva7636]

By the way keep up the great work and these videos.

[@addltd]

David, expanding on the concepts you just shared, couldn't someone create an RF to RF speed booster whereby you could use standard RF lenses on the R7, but bring the field of view back to what you would expect with a full size sensor and also gain a stop of light thus increasing the low light capability of that combo? This could work just like and EF to RF speed booster.

[@okaro6595]

No, such would not be possible or at least would be very complicated.

[@BrianKilgoreCanada]

Excellent explanation. -- BAK --

[@kburke1965]

It would be great to do a follow on where you discuss the effect on DOF of the difference in magnification inherent in crop sensors vs FF. It’s the missing piece of the puzzle you didn’t discuss. Assuming our APSC and FF cameras have the same total resolution (same megapixels), and you make an image of the same subject with the same field of view, and print it the same size, the APSC image needs to be physically enlarged more (smaller sensor to same size print). Which makes the out of focus areas appear more blurry. This effect actually reduces the depth of field compared to the larger sensor, compensating for exactly half the greater depth of field resulting from the change in focal length. Often this is referred to as APSC sensors having a smaller “circle of confusion” ie a higher spatial resolution. (If you change the f number to keep the same physical aperture size you will exact,y compensate for the other half, giving identical depth of field between the images.)

[@MJohnson-qp9he]

However, if you are “comparing” crop to full size for same results it does come out to multiplying f stop times crop value. Otherwise the outcome will not match. But who cares, use a camera, get your photo. That’s what matters. Happy photography all.

[@okaro6595]

Yes, you should not care when taking shots but when you buy gear you should care. Many people think that MFT 12-35 mm f/2.8 is like full frame 24-70 mm f/2.8. It is not. I am not saying it is a bad lens or you should not buy it. Just know what it does before buying.

[@alastairtheduke]

Holy crap. Has there ever been a clearer answer than this on this topic? I think not.

[@RobShootPhotos]

Exactly.

[@jbennett3578]

Just to be safe, I multiply everything by the crop factor. Focal length, aperture, ISO, gas mileage, pinball scores, how many cheeseburgers I want for lunch, everything. It makes life simpler for me and my 3.2 cats.

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Bwahaha!

[@neildavies2783]

Nice... even I understood that ...

[@DigiDriftZone]

An iPhone 5mm f1.6 lens is not equivalent to a 28mm f1.6 lens on full frame despite having a similar field of view. They are not similar in depth of field (obviously) but also not in the amount of light being captured. Zooming in and out does not change the aperture, but it does absolutely change the amount of light being captured. If you look at the entrance pupil diameter, a 35mm f1.8 will have 19.44mm, while a 300mm f1.8 will have 166.67mm which is a significant difference in light captured. Because you are changing the focal length, while the f stop doesn't change, the amount of light being captured absolutely does.

[@okaro6595]

No, it is not equivalent to f/1.6. It is equivalent to f/9. Do not break the math. For it to be equivalent to 28 mm f/1.6 it would have to have a 17.5 mm aperture and at least that size front element. No, zooming in does not increase the light gathered as you gather the light from a smaller angle. That is just the beauty of the f-stop. It gathers the same amount of light no matter what the focal length. You are absolutely wrong. Please do not use such absolute terms when you do not know.

[@Lysander-Spooner]

Ever since I owned a light meter I noticed there was never a setting for film size or sensor size.

[@kalisti2323]

yeah big obvious clue no one spots XD

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Truth!

[@Lesterandsons]

Yes exposure of a smartphone and a large format are the same, nevertheless...

[@jesusgjchuza6491]

Super 🤝

[@movado242]

SCSI cable. Haven’t heard that in a while 😂

[@jonelmlund3411]

I run a apsc lense (Sony 16-55, 2.8) on a apsc camera (Sony a6600). As I understand you, since my lense is made for apsc I dont need to multiply by 1.5 unless I want to compare it to a full frame. For example if im shooting a landscape and want to use a aperature at 11, I dont need to use a aperature at 7.1, but rather just use F11 ? Hope my question make sense. Regards Jon, Denmark

[@okaro6595]

ALL LENSES ARE MARKED WITH THEIR ACTUAL FOCAL LENGTHS AND APERTURES. Sinne you have a crop body you do not need to even consider if the lens is crop or full frame. Millimeters are millimeters. If you were to switch to full frame then 16 mm full frame would be much wider than the 16 mm on a crop lens an the camera crops images made with crop lenses. These issues matter mainly when buying gear so that you do not get wrong expectations. When you are shooting why worry about it? Just use and you will learn how your gear works.p

[@7ombische]

Now that’s how to explain a widely misunderstood technical question! 👍🏽

[@LastXwitness]

TELL EM DAVE! been yellin this forever...

[@Tony.Visual]

I’m a music photographer and i use an apsc. If i take both apsc and full frame and i will set them with same iso and shutter speed in any case the photo will be different in terms of exposure because the full frame 2.8 on the apsc would be 4.48, so will be less light coming in the camera, am i right? So at that point wouldn’t be better to have a full frame?

[@okaro6595]

You use very confusing language. Do you use APS-C or APS-C and full frame? You should specify when you talk about bodies and when about lenses. f/2.8 is always f/2.8. Period. full stop. It never is f/4.48. That is just an equivalence, not real. If you only use APS-C and do not compare to full frame you can just forget everything about this.

[@okaro6595]

Nobody has claimed they do. They change neither aperture nor the focal length. The equivalences are just tools for comparison. 12-35 mm f/2.8 IS not equivalent to 24-70 mm f/2.8 on full frame but equivalent to f/5.6.

[@VENAXIS]

What about using a s35 lens on a FF camera (but using a s35 crop). Will that affect the T stop of the lens after the s35 crop on the FF camera?

[@okaro6595]

The aperture never changes, the focal length never changes based on the body.

[@michelecintramika8482]

But does sensor size affect light? For example: Does a Fujifilm XF 50mm f1 receive the same light on the crop sensor as a Canon EF 50mm f1 on a full frame sensor? Or will the Fujifilm crop sensor have to increase the ISO to compensate?

[@okaro6595]

No, you do not need to change the exposure. Where you lose is that you get more noise at the SAME iso.

[@RazeTheWeak]

So, question: I’ve been shooting portraits on my crop sensor Fuji XH2 with a 56mm f/1.2 (roughly 85mm FF field of view), but have been wanting to try my hand at a session on 35mm film. After doing some test shots with my Fuji setup to get the setting right, could I then take those same setting and apply them to my Nikon FE2 with an 85mm lens OR, since it is technically a 50mm focal length, would I have to use the same settings on my Nikon 50mm instead? Thanks for your time and advice!

[@willstith1]

The light readings will be the same no matter which lens you use. The 85 will have a shallower DOF at the same distance but the field of view will be the same. I think you'll be fine using the 56 for test shots.

[@okaro6595]

Yo would get roughly similar with 85 mm at f/1.8-f/2. Just adjust the aperture one wider on crop. That is simpler than doing any weird multiplications. 85 mm is technically 50 mm? That makes no sense. 85 mm is 85 mm. 50 mm is 50 mm.

[@richardwintle1020]

Great explanation! There's so much mythology, disinformation, and dogma about these things.

[@jjk9999]

The difference I've seen between Snap n Shoot, FF size and MF size is the range of colors captured and range of tone captured. There is a lot for which that's not relevant, wasted overkill, or even counter productive.

[@jtinoco9859]

Enough said from someone who really knows what he’s talking about. Done!!

[@zacx6970]

Does that mean if says I bought an f2.8 zoom lens especially designed for APS-C , it has a similar exposure to f2.8 full frame? Which means it has the same low light performance?

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Yes.

[@okaro6595]

Whether the lens is designed for crop or full frame does not matter a bit if you use crop. The FF lens just casts extra light that your sensor never sees.

[@patricklacombe2818]

So if I were to match the field of view between, by distance or zoom, a full frame camera and 1.6x crop sensor camera. What f-stop change would I have to make in the crop sensor camera to equal the depth of field on the full frame camera? Open the aperture by 1.6x? I think this is where the f-stop calculation comes into play. Right? Wrong? This still hurts my mind...

[@MrGirbes]

problem you're having is this: f stop is a measurement for exposure not depth of field. the f-stop is a calculated value and is a ratio between diameter of the aperture (mm) and focal lenthg (mm). So @35mm f2.8 the actual size of the aperture is smaller then @200mm f2.8. Remember that Only distance to subject and diameter of the aperture (mm) influence the dof directly. So if you want to match up a 85mm image FF on a cropped camera (lets say F4) you would choose a appr 50mm lens. However on the 50mm @F4 the actual diameter of the aperture is smaller (because of the ratio) and the DOF wil be bigger so to match the same size of aperture you should go to f2.5. But as the F stop is not designed as a measurement for DOF but for exposure. Also your exposure changes (faster shutter orso).

[@okaro6595]

You would have to open one stop (one and a third to be exact) more. So if full frame is taken at f/2.8 you would have to use f/1.8. If full frame is f/5.6 you should use f/4 (or f/3.5). Now you may see the problem in case what if the full frame is shot at f/1.2? Well you just learned why pros use full frame. APS-C is not as capable. Think less these and shoot. Shooting with a calculator in one hand and camera in the other is not fun. Learn by shooting.

[@MontanaJim]

Excellent Video. I have probably linked this video to dozens of photographers who continue propagate the myth of having to multiply their aperture.

[@warricksmith5178]

Nice explanation. Just to clarify one point. You mentioned 1.6 as the crop factor for APSC. But I understood this varied between manufacturers, with Fujifilm at 1.5 and some Canons at 1.3 etc. Or am I missing something…

[@simoneciani316]

1.6 is for Canon. And the answer was for Canon user.

[@alexandrerosenberg5277]

Yes it depends on the manufacturers. Technically the Fujifilm crop factor isn't exactly 1.5 but closer to 1.52-1.53.

[@set3777]

Person asking the question wants to buy the R7 which has a crop factor of 1.6X

[@5ryane]

Your correct the multiplying factor changes with camera manufactures on APS-C cameras.Sony APS-C is 1.5

[@okaro6595]

Canon is 1.61, others 1.53, forget the 1.3, it was ten+ years ago on some pro canon cameras. To me more specific Canon uses 22.3 mm wide sensors and other 23.5 mm. If you divide 36 mm by those you get the crop factor.