Don't Upgrade Your WLToys Until You Watch This Video!! (12428/12423 Best & Worst Upgrades)

[UPGRADE LINKS IN DESCRIPTION]
Here I have compiled what I believe to be the best and worst upgrades/mods you can do to your WLToys model 12428/12427/12423.
Having had a few of these cars over the past 4 years or so, and having upgraded them in different ways, I have slowly learned what parts/upgrades you should steer clear of, and which ones I think you should definitely try/get instead.
The overall consensus of the video is to steer clear of most aluminum parts, especially the cheap value sets that come with "every part you need". Some aluminum parts are good no have, but 90% of them are unnecessary.
Anyways, here is the upgrade list for things I definitely think you should get:
!!!GREASE YOU SERVO SAVER/STEERING RACK!!!
- Wheels/Tires (Same tires on metal rims might be better but these are the ones I got): www.amazon.com...
- Aluminum Steering Knuckle: www.amazon.com...
- Aluminum C-Hub: www.amazon.com...
- Heat sink: www.amazon.com...
- Aluminum 12mm Wheel Hex (Pins are too big, Factory pins can be used though): www.amazon.com...
- Aluminum Drive Shafts (WARNING Factory shafts are glued/welded on): www.amazon.com...
- Steel Center Diff (WARNING Factory diff shafts are glued/welded on): www.amazon.com...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
!DO NOT BUY THIS OR ANYTHING SIMILAR! www.amazon.com...
!THIS IS WHAT IS ON MY ORIGINAL 12428!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~

[@riccardomassafaidatech]

This is actually the most informative video on this cars, thank you!

[@PlokProductions]

Glad it was helpful!

[@emiliozahir3427]

i realize Im kind of off topic but does anybody know a good website to stream newly released series online ?

[@nz420rc9]

Hey mate; our 12428 Mod Thread have just had this vid linked and we feel your pain. We went throught this also when they started using backpack sprayers of superglue during installation. To be fair, out of the box the 12427s now last MUCH longer than the original 12428s from over 3 years ago. The issues start when it eventually needs repair in the drivetrain and you don't just add it to landfill & want to replace parts. Good news is, I have actually pulled apart 3 or 4 of these supergued 12427s and have only sacrificed one small part each on average in the process. Check this page of our thread if interested. If you pull it apart and used decent screws and Loctite, you will be able to repair it much more easily thereafter. There is a post on removing the Rear Driveshaft #0476-#0477 and further down a post on removing the reduction gear #0015. It can be done! This 12427/8 Mod Thread is still very active and all are welcome for support. Happy RC'ing!

[@DabKnowledge]

"those diddydoo's, right there" Who knew, Ned Flanders was a RC guy!

[@bobtierney6946]

Thanks. This is the kind of info we (well I anyway) need. I would lock your diff with never-harden modeling clay so you can reopen the diff if you want. Also look for plastic "captured ball ends" to adapt your aluminum turnbuckles.

[@PlokProductions]

For the trophy truck I packed it with just grease and it locks it good enough to drift in 2wd

[@philippshobbyecke]

You can use some tissiuepaper or earplugs as well. Did this a few times at my tamiyas and its easy to remove. Nice Video. Thanks👍🏼

[@ButtonWalls]

This is my first RC car I received for Christmas, really enjoyed the car at first and was really enjoying getting into the hobby. Eventually the driveshaft broke and I bought a new metal one. Well I come to find out the screws are impossible to remove, and now so much money, time and frustration later I think I have completely quit on it. I have spent more time trying to fix this rather than actually driving it. I am glad im not alone and I know not all brands are like this, but this has seriously left such a sour taste in my mouth.

[@PlokProductions]

yeah the drive shaft thing is pretty annoying considering these things have been sold for over half a decade now, and used to be completely serviceable repairable and swappable Just recently they decided to start gluing and welding everything in place However it seems the electronics have simultaneously improved so it's a double edged sword. It's not IMPOSSIBLE to repair as is, it's just a royal pain in the ass, and you are fairly likely to damage it further. Once you get past all the glued and welded shit though it's gone for good and part swapping can resume as normal.

[@josephplatania5593]

Get a soldering. You can precisely heat screws that are locked with lock tight. It helps a lot.

[@PlokProductions]

good tip I have a soldering iron so I'll definitely try that next time

[@MangoJim90]

Yep, I tried it and it is awesome))👍💪

[@AvgDoomGuy]

ima describe this video in one phrase... What a life saver

[@WHDRWN]

Mine have been fine on 2s 30c for over a year now. I am surprised they lasted this long, I kinda wanted em to cook so I had an excuse to overhaul electronics.

[@PlokProductions]

That's pretty good Maybe they are slightly better esc/reciever combos these days, as the one that burned up was the 2016/2017 model, before they started gluing and welding everything, and overall in general seeming to "fix" common issues and failures with them.

[@WHDRWN]

@@PlokProductions I can confirm they are the fix version. Have you find any extra heat in the motor/esc since welding the diff?

[@PlokProductions]

Hard to say if or how much extra since I don't really measure, but I never had any issues with it, even running larger wheels. That being said it does get hot to the touch which is why I added a heat sink, but it runs just fine I don't really go full speed much though I usually just kinda bash it around in my yard at half throttle or so, and do some crawling

[@WHDRWN]

@@PlokProductions Good to know, that's my next mod for sure.

[@CrazyOldGamerLive]

You'll have much more success by mounting rubber o gaskets under the nuts and under the ball of the front end to absorb some shock, limits it's range of movement and stress on the metal itself, prevent rubbing. it helps with the ball joint that it lifts it a bit and prevents the ball from over-twisting and wearing itself out.

[@josephplatania5593]

Use a soldering iron to heat the set screw and the thread locker will thaw out.

[@PlokProductions]

Lol i'll have to try that next time Stopped using the permanent stuff tho

[@Xempt_One]

Nice video mate. Im using mine for rock crawling so a few of the mods ill do will differ from yours with the alumium kit. Was shocked to see how far out the camber and toe was on the front end when it arrived so definitely keen on fixing that and also replacing the front shock pivots that just bind up instead of using the shock

[@dava00007]

I have a 14401 and I can attest that those aluminum upgrades are generally the worst thing, even with the most powerful loctite they barely hold in place.

[@PlokProductions]

i dunno I put that permanent loctite and the shit practically welded

[@thedogtutor4998]

I took the spare off the back and cut off a bit of the cage, remounted it on the roof also took the foam out of the tires

[@paul707.7]

Tmaxx shocks bolt right on rear . And you can make a front shock tower of of the front end parts so the shock sit up right. And you can also make a sway bar out of the batter bracs on the side of. batter tray.

[@TheRealRustyRider]

I put a 2s lipo in mine and it smoked the ESC as well. I still had quite a few runs with it before it smoked. I replaced the ESC with a very cheap ebay replacement and it's still going strong. One issue I'm having is I have a very noticeable loss of power going forward, reverse is incredibly slow now, and to top it off, the 4WD drive train doesn't seem to be working all that well any more. I took apart the diffs and the main gears, nothing is broken or stripped, I can't find anything wrong with the gears, so I have no idea why it is operating this way. Thanks for the great video!

[@PlokProductions]

I wonder if maybe the 2s burned up the motor a little too? Not sure why it would do that if all gears are intact

[@3Y3ECE]

Im thinking you got a bad esc? I ran a hoovo 2s 5000mAh (60c) in mine (after tailgate cutting...) and it was a ballistic missile. Then i upgraded to metal, a 120a hobbywing esc, 3500kv motor, heat sink with fan, lights aplenty, channel switches for those, 7 channel radiolink receiver. Now my biggest problems are those turnbuckle links, those infernal front drive shafts (6 down, im done), and the wheels. I want 100mm x 50mm on aluminum rims. Not gunna happen, far as I can tell. But the drive shafts im trying the cvd upgrades because i obviously need the extra flexibility. My car is now fast as roadrunner but breaks as fast as the coyote!! Good luck with the rig, i didnt have luck with the front and rear arms. The metal bent very fast on mine. Looks sharp!!

[@PlokProductions]

How long ago did you get it? Like I said the one I got originally was from like 2016/2017

[@rusty1253]

That video is more useful than 90% of youtube

[@PlokProductions]

thanks

[@dad-diyph9193]

Definitely not a click bait! Subscribed!

[@PlokProductions]

Glad you found it useful :D

[@floridamangonwild]

My guy here just saved me at least a hundo

[@PlokProductions]

glad to hear it

[@BanditAviation]

Glad you were explaining about the WLtoys. Now I can forget about buying these. I think I'll stick with Hosim and Bezgar.

[@PlokProductions]

I definitely don't think these are bad for the price though Just gotta know what you are getting in to The 12428 in particular is a really good basher/crawler, even without a brushless upgrade

[@northernlightsrc8994]

Love the morrowind music

[@ObedYah561]

I have ran a 5600 2c lipo , as long as I didn’t run it on full power it was awesome.. but when a friend ran it full throttle for 50 plus minutes, the motor melted inside and the esc melted a little...

[@tjerrid9985]

Thank you sir! Just bought one to bash on. Saw it on Kevin Talbots channel and looks like a good stock basher truck. Wheel hub upgrade and I will probably put a spektrum 2s or 3s esc system.

[@PlokProductions]

yeah these things are pretty fun for the price, but they love falling apart lol

[@josephplatania5593]

I love 12428 and just bought 423. My steering is jacked. I hope the grease helps. What is a good servo for this car ??

[@anjel5267]

I also have the 12423 and you are right the steering is ass

[@JackOnly21]

Thanks for sharing my friend i do realy agree. Some time i just use the stock one until i broke it than i replace.

[@HellStoneRC]

Great tips mate, liked and subscribed! Cheers!

[@PlokProductions]

Thanks for the sub!

[@johair027]

Thanks for the info man! Now I'm scared of buying lipo batteries for 12428. I think its better to use li-ion battery and find a way to have increased mAh.

[@divingfalconfpv4602]

Make ur own pack. Get vt6a 18650 cells 15 to 30a and 3000mah same weight. Could also do 21700 cells if they fit. 4200mah 30a Look up how to solder. To make in series and make balance plug. Pretty easy with 2. Just don't heat battery too much. Be quick

[@Jayded01]

I haven't had any problems with 2s lipo. Original esc still in. Only when I put bigger tires on it, motor and esc started to smell. But did not burn.

[@frankbierschneider8785]

Tnx for sharing these lot peaces of advice! Appreciate it!

[@PlokProductions]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnjuan6698]

Nice mod on the 12428! Did it eliminate the wobbling on the front wheel? Planning to install those aluminum upgrades on my 12428

[@PlokProductions]

The way I currently have the 12428 setup I finally got rid of all the wobble, but it took a lot of tinkering, and adding different washers, and locktiting stuff. The setup I have on the front end of the 12423 works perfect though, with just the aluminum C-Hubs or whatever. Steering is tight and responsive. Also making it RWD helped the front end a lot, and adding grease to the Rear diff helps with traction.

[@jonathanm8273]

My advice from owning both of these cars. The 12428(green) is better than the 12423 out of the box at least. I see the 12423 actually having more potential because it has more room for upgrades, better design and will flip less. But i would go with a traxxas slash over both, or get something stock brushless. Theirs a few type of traxxas slash trucks, but you should go with the brushless out of the gate. If you get any car with brushed motors, including these two in the videos, you'll either 1.just settle with a slow car, or 2. Spend more money than a good branded car to get less performance and more headaches. I upgraded the 12428, sold the 12423 and mostly use the upgraded traxxas slash.

[@PlokProductions]

I've got the traxxas slash ultimate thing definitely rips these are still fun little rippers and a decent way to get into the hobby imo I agree that the green one is definitely better and more durable, but it's also nice to have a version with body shells so you can customize the look a bit more they are both definitely fun though, until you burn up your brushed components, cause theres not much in the way of replacement parts for brushed as compared to brushless I've been to lazy to convert them to brushless, but one of them at least needs its

[@WellingtonIronman]

Instead of running two sets of shocks you could screw the second spring into the original one and just run them both on the same shock. I don’t think you’d get coil binding as there’s plenty of space between the coils at full compression.

[@PlokProductions]

I actually did try that and wasn't happy with the binding of the 2 coils I actually did something similar to what you said for the trophy truck, I took an extra spring section (a slightly weaker spring from a random spring set I had, wasn't a prefect match), and doubled them up on the strut using a washer to keep them separated, but basically one stacked on top of the other like this -----|----- with the washer between them, and that works pretty well

[@martintanjung5540]

The sleeves can be swapped with the c-hub metal sleeves from hsp...

[@tomkruze2749]

Run on 2S Lithium Ion battery. Less Juce the “Li po”. Just a little less

[@JRMOBILE]

Thanks for all the info, it's really helpful. I just got a 12427 and I am already buying different things for it 😅, I like driving it but I also like spending time modifying it, better than be on a small or a big screen because the weather is crap. The modification part now ... has anybody tried to fit a motor with a little bit more torque? Something between what it is now and a crawler.

[@PlokProductions]

Not sure honestly, I'm sure someone has though A lot of people go straight to brushless with these and replace all the electronics Definitely a fun and relatively cheap little RC though for bashing and customizing

[@JRMOBILE]

@@PlokProductions thanks for the prompt response, I know that someone has fitted a 80T motor with 12T pinion gear and larger tyres and made it a proper crawler but It was obviously really slow afterwards, so I am thinking something in between, will see ... Thanks again pal 👍

[@janekwiniarczyk]

Did you buy any spare batteries for it? Which one u go for?

[@JRMOBILE]

@@janekwiniarczyk yes I did, I will have a look and I will get back to you because I am also using a different rig at the same time 🙂 and I have to dig up the batteries 😄

[@JRMOBILE]

@@janekwiniarczyk so ... I use a URUAV 2s lipo 2700mah 40C and a LIMSKEY 2s lipo 3500mah 40C as well, it will be a little bit tricky to keep it in place but you can with a little bit of persuasion and a rubber band 😅

[@thedogtutor4998]

they're awsome stock too and great $ value

[@nomusicrc]

I have used a 3s battery on my 12428 to try to burn out the speed control but it worked flawlessly when I put in a stronger motor the ESC would cut out if I were to drive it full throttle I'm very impressed with the ESC I have the 12423 and I smashed the front bumper support I looked at the instruction manual and it lists every part but that do you know where I can get it When you're talking don't have music playing

[@PlokProductions]

music helps cover up awkward mouth noises but yeah it gets too loud, needs better a better compression preset as for the ESC they must have improved them since the first model I got, but these things are fast enough as is and get hot enough even with heat sinks that I'd rather just keep the power stock Got a traxxas slash if I really want to go fast

[@nomusicrc]

@@PlokProductions if you were eating something I could understand the awkward noises of course I'm guessing you got the brushless slash I also have that one it's the second car I beat on the first one is the x-maxx Another fast car is the wltoys a 959 and it only has a 390 brushed motor in it it's too fast for its own good But I do love the WL toys 144001 too bad I broke it at my local hobby shop I'm waiting for the instruction manual to come in the mail so I can order the part hopefully I can get it

[@nasstudio2540]

Amazing video man,keep up the good work

[@PlokProductions]

Thanks, will do!

[@bluefish_1242]

I have a 12427 and I had run it with 2s. Occasionally something smelled like burned but I didn’t pay attention to it. So I don’t know if it’s anything to do with the ESC, or the amount of current different batteries put out.

[@gregsegallis9628]

My 12427 came with a 2S LiPo (or possibly Li-Ion, not sure how you could tell the difference, but I don't beleive there is any performance difference other than capacity). The charged voltage measures 8.4 V, which I do not beleive you would see for any other chemistry two-cell battery. The specs in the documentation also state it is a LiPo battery. Maybe they have changed the design with the 12427???

[@PlokProductions]

could be I haven't bought one since this video came out, but as of the two that I have featured in this video they both came with the old style battery

[@andreiflorea3690]

Mine has a different esc with a bigger passive radiator, it can take 2s but you have to be careful.

[@PlokProductions]

It came with a better esc or you upgraded it?

[@aKedz00]

Thanks for this great video. I need to replace the esc on my daughter's 12428, since the transmitter broke, and the replacement transmitter's that matches the one the car came with won't pair with my short antenna ESC. Do you think it's worth upgrading to a brushless kit? I've seen some that have all the parts plus a new transmitter. Or maybe I'm better off getting a better, multi channel transmitter? Any advice is appreciated, we are new to the hobby.

[@PlokProductions]

a little late, but if you are already replacing the esc and transmitter you might as well just go full brushless The only thing that has been stopping me from going brushless is that I dont want to have a useless transmitter and esc laying around lol

[@alleanton2929]

Can I upgrade to a larger battery? I'm thinking a 3300 mAh or 4000 mAh. The voltage is the same.

[@PlokProductions]

people seem to have had luck doing so with the newer models so I think you should be fine

[@idworkhard]

What was the C rating of the Lipo that caused fire? I think 10C or 15C would have been fine...maybe even 20C if not flooring constantly

[@PlokProductions]

I honestly can't remember at this point, but that could have been the problem

[@PlokProductions]

Holy shit I just looked up the amazon order, they were 30c lmfao

[@roopeahvenranta1244]

Thank you for nice informative video. Aluminium shock towers won't fit well cos those are made to fit Feiyue not Wltoys. I did run to this difference while fitting Battery Compartment For Feiyue FY08 to my 12428.

[@PlokProductions]

interesting to know Yeah it's a shame cause the kit says specifically its for the wltoys 12428 lol

[@josephplatania5593]

Howdy. Hey you got a suggestion for a good steering servo. A 5 wire. The replacements I got on eBay are smaller than stock. Don't fit well and don't work great either. I can't find one. It looks the same as the one in my 12402a wltoys. But I cannot find that one either. Appreciate your help. I live ripping these cars around.

[@PlokProductions]

Honestly can't find a good one either Basically either keep buying shitty ones off amazon, or do the brushless conversion so you have a better selection

[@anjel5267]

11:30 ty so much it worked a lot and fix my steering

[@anjel5267]

@plok productions

[@PlokProductions]

glad to help

[@anjel5267]

@@PlokProductions I have a question

[@ryanspire]

I noticed the original shocks are not oil filled and have no dampening. Are there oil filled shock upgrades?

[@PlokProductions]

There's probably something out there that would fit

[@divingfalconfpv4602]

Yea esc must be way under rated for amps.. they use li-ions which cheap ones they are using prob can only give like 10a.. I'd wanted 12429 the truck crawler with bigger tires (slow) but trying to find one separate esc and receiver..

[@PlokProductions]

if you are looking for new electronics you might as well go full brushless swap

[@joefries365]

i have that green one and it was 35 c outside and ran mine on 3s for like 30 mins and didnt catch fire. smelled hot tho lol

[@PlokProductions]

they must use a better ESC these days cause my original 12428 caught fire after like 3 minutes

[@picklesickle3795]

Every description I have seen with all these wltoys cars states it is a LITHIUM-ION (Li-ion) Battery. But I have heard people on here call it a Li-po. So... 🔥

[@PlokProductions]

I think people just kinda assume they are the same thing, and these days you probably hear of and see "li-po" more often so people (as well as myself) just kinda mentally default to calling them lipos But yes, it is definitely a critical mistake to make on these cheap ESCs

[@kcira8578]

Have you tried the front mounting suspension mod? Cause the factory style shock mounting suck lol

[@PlokProductions]

Not yet, I have a 3d printer tho so I can print my own I was satisfied enough by beefing up the front suspension with extra springs, but yeah it sucks pretty back lol

[@josephplatania5593]

I load diffs with grease. It makes them tighter.

[@PlokProductions]

same

[@josephplatania5593]

I'm a beginner and never had brushless. I found a complete setup from wltoys. It's 2 months out. But I'll let you know how it works out. Happy New Year ###

[@paul707.7]

You can make front tie rods out of 1/10 scale. Ball joint parts

[@PlokProductions]

true

[@ligijiji9919]

Hey man, great video! My 12428 currently has a problem where the servo won't return to its initial position after steering. Is it a ripped gear of the servo? Or is the servo underpowered? It gets stuck sometimes and I have to move it with hand to get it unstuck. Is it of the links though?

[@PlokProductions]

could just be a bad servo The ones that come with it strip pretty easily, especially if you don't keep the steering rack lubed

[@ligijiji9919]

@@PlokProductions oh I forgot about this comment. It got fixed. I just used paper to clear any sand on the area between the servo gear and the link and it's smooth now. It was just sand stuck in there. Thanks for answering!

[@janekwiniarczyk]

Hi just bought 12427 as first rc for my son, need better batteries as original don't last long, you saying to stick with originals as spare?

[@PlokProductions]

yeah although I think people have had better luck with the newer models, the one I had which burned up was an earlier version of these

[@wisniatd]

Same here, new to this car. Read something about battery upgrades, people wrote that it can be better to buy some stock or max 2200 mAh Li-ion (not li-po) and then change them more often so the engine and stuff have a while to cool down when swapping batteries. That running them longer on bigger juice may cause wear stuff more just by longer periods of constant driving. But that's I've never had a chance to test.

[@Ackeuppling]

Hey man i have two kidz that drives A pathfinder L979 And the other car is a terminator L979. My question is wich parts matches wiht those 2 cars, can i go with The "A" verson or can i buy kind of every part and it matches? And is it worth to buy new motors and if it is wich ones do u recommend? Greatings from sweden

[@PlokProductions]

Honestly not sure

[@horst6855]

ummm i've been running the stock ESC on 2S lipos for months now, no issues at all.

[@PlokProductions]

I think it has been updated since the first one I got because a lot of people have said this It probably still isn't great for the ESC tho lol

[@mikel8367]

informative video thanks so much. I want to do speed runs with my WLtoys 124019. I have street racing tires on it and made a front F1 wing in the front. I need a 2s 7.4 battery. how big could I go .I'm thinking any thing that fits the battery compartment. .like a 3000 mah 60 c or higher . just want to do speed runs. what are your thoughts and suggestions? thank you

[@PlokProductions]

Would have to do a brushless swap or at least get a better ESC/reciever to handle lipo (these run Li-ion apparently, and the extra discharge or lipo burns them up quick) other than that though, pretty much just whatever fits in there. I think I was running 2200mah or 2400mah 2s batteries in the first one I got (before it caught on fire) despite the voltage of the stock and new batteries being the same, it was significantly faster, and heated up way hotter way quicker (hence the fire lol) you can also just clip off the back section of the battery holder so you can fit longer batteries, and use a velcro strap to secure (also allows thicker batteries too) but again, brushless swap is probably the way to go

[@mikel8367]

@@PlokProductions thank you

[@AquaticVisions]

I love the Skyrim music

[@PlokProductions]

It's morrowind ;D

[@lukedavis4213]

My sons had the welded shafts etc! Broke a drive shaft, ended up buying a full car as it was cheaper than replacing the entire drivetrain due to every grub being welded!

[@PlokProductions]

Yeah I was pissed because I wanted to modify it right out of the box, so I basically got knuckle deep into disassembling it and realized I had to basically break multiple brand new components just to remove them, and also replace perfectly good components, just to be able to use upgraded components, due to parts I wanted to keep, being welded to parts I didn't want to keep. I ended up sending them back my already broken one as kinda a "f-u" to them for basically screwing me over by welding everything. Even if I wasn't trying to modify it out of the box, if a plastic driveshaft breaks, which it will eventually, it would have been impossible to repair.

[@lukedavis4213]

@@PlokProductions Yep, plastic shaft broke at both ends. Both ends couldnt be removed from their shafts. Would have meant new rear axle housing, pinion, centre shaft, spur, front CVD and bearings. The replacements seem ok so far though!

[@ligijiji9919]

@@lukedavis4213 mine has a metal shaft, but I own a Mytoys MT260 Dune Buggy, which is basically the same thing but a car with paddle tyres

[@yiarkungfu]

Awesome video.

[@PlokProductions]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@wisniatd]

TES 3 Morrowind theme in the background?

[@PlokProductions]

yes :D

[@Max.Mustermann.]

hi there o/ does the bumper from the 12423 fit on the 428 ? i dont like the small bumper from it :D and i would like to protect the front a bit... thanks for the video o/

[@PlokProductions]

All of the parts are interchangeable on these models, since they all share the same chassis. You may have to remove some bits from the front of the 12428 chassis to be able to attach it, or make modifications, but it will attach to the chassis for sure

[@Max.Mustermann.]

@@PlokProductions got to the part with the superglue/expoxy/weld yup ... i broke those screws on the front diff right off... tried to drill the broken ones out but my drill bit broke too xD unlucky me :D

[@PlokProductions]

pretty much same thing here lol

[@gregorymathe654]

video très interessante sur la bande original de Oblivion il me semble ;)

[@generalgravy4273]

i guess what im asking is do 8 have to take apart the whole part of the car to change the motor

[@PlokProductions]

they are pretty simple to work on the trophy truck one would be the easiest to work on since the body comes off easier (just body pins) The buggy is a screwed on body so it's a little more work but it's not complicated by any means

[@generalgravy4273]

ok

[@generalgravy4273]

thank u for the info

[@lotusgold8014]

which ones best on durability the truck or the buggy?

[@PlokProductions]

The buggy for sure Those plastic truck shells get pretty beat up pretty fast

[@ligijiji9919]

Hey man! Great video! I have a doubt, can I upgrade to a 2000mah battery on my WLtoys 12428(not exactly this car, its a Mytoys MT260 which is the same car but with paddle tyres) with a 760 brushed motor. It has the stock WLtoys esc and everything else. Will anything wrong happen if I change the battery? Please respond

[@PlokProductions]

I think the main difference is that they come with and are designed Li-ion batteries instead of li-po batteries, so you have to be careful with li-po batteries if you are going to use them at all, as they dishcharge way too quick I was able to get away with it by turning the throttle sensitivty dial down to about halfway, basically just not running it anywhere near full power, and it stayed within proper temps Personally though, I would just try to find more replacement batteries of the same type that it came with, and just switch them out when they die. Either that or do a brushless swap, and swap to lipos

[@lukedavis4213]

I use 2200mah 2S in both of our 12428s, one's completely stock and the other has different radio gear. Have to use a strap rather than the stock part though. Makes it much more responsive and a fair bit quicker!

[@ligijiji9919]

@@PlokProductions "mytoys Lipo Battery 2S 7.4V 2000mah 30C Rechargeable with T Plug for RC Drone Car Boat Helicopter Airplane: Buy Online at Best Price in UAE - Amazon.ae" www.amazon.ae/mytoys-Battery-Rechargeable-Helicopter-Airplane/dp/B07Z25GSD6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&qid=1620767876&refinements=p_89%3Amytoys&s=toys&sr=1-5 This is the battery I'm planning to upgrade to. But will it boil the motor or the esc? I'm really scared as I may not be able to replace the part. Oh and the battery is meant for this car but u can't really trust this Chinese brand. Please reply. Thanks for the previous reply🙏❤️

[@ligijiji9919]

@@lukedavis4213 has anything died on ur car?

[@lukedavis4213]

@@ligijiji9919 Nothing apart from the plastic driveshaft. Metal replacement is holding up well! I have an almost full spares car so this doesn't get treated too well either!

[@generalgravy4273]

hey are these easy to work on for beginners

[@PlokProductions]

Yes, definitely

[@gabeducote8230]

samething happend to mine when i used my 3.s lipo battery

[@PlokProductions]

3s definitely too much for these stock

[@floridamangonwild]

Hey were are all your videos?

[@PlokProductions]

This is my secondary channel I just haven't done much with it yet

[@floridamangonwild]

Also I want to run a bigger batteries were can I get a receiver that can handle A regular 2s

[@PlokProductions]

yeah you can definitely do it if you upgrade the reciever/esc (it uses a esc/reciever combo so you have to get both) Which means you will also need a new controller/transmiter I think Which is kinda why at that point you might as well just go full brushless swap You could also possibly get away with running 2s on stock, if you found a way to keep everything cooler, like finding a fan to fit on the ESC

[@floridamangonwild]

@@PlokProductions ok thanks prob just gonna swap the enternals with a arma granite

[@PlokProductions]

lol damn might as well just get an arma granite But that'll definitely do her lol

[@floridamangonwild]

Welp ima be running it in mud a lot so I gotta thro some conformal coating on it so might as well get a heatsink on it sorry for late reply.

[@floridamangonwild]

Can you fit a heatsink for the 12428 motor on it?

[@the_hypercluster3854]

Bro what about 3000 mah 7.4 v battery

[@josephplatania5593]

My 12423 is not a good jumper. 12429 jumps perfect

[@josephplatania5593]

Did you go brushless ???

[@PlokProductions]

not yet

[@gabeducote8230]

i just got a new brushless moter

[@PlokProductions]

nice One day I'll do brushless swap on these

[@kodak_jack]

Bling does not buy you anything as far as performance or reliability is concerned. The electronics are terrible, so, in short order, you will be replacing it all. Spend more money up front and buy a brushless vehicle like the RedCat Tornado or Volcano. Come join us on the 12428 Mod thread on RC Groups. We've been at it since 2017 too. OBTW, ALL of us on that thread use 2 S lipo's. You were the victim of the LOUSY WLToys all-in-one, which gets tossed when you replace all of the electronics. That aluminum driveshaft you show is JUNK! You can buy rod ends and threaded rod to make your own links. You can buy individual steering components. You don't have to buy the entire upgrade package because, as you point out, it's bling, but junk. What you refer to as the "servo saver" is the lousy steering rack/ slider. Ging to aluminum there does not cure the terrible steering. Remember, too much grease will attract dirt like crazy.

[@PlokProductions]

I feel like 99% of this is stuff I said in the video but thanks

[@PlokProductions]

also definitely not true about the aluminum driveshaft. THose things are build like tanks and I have had zero probelms with those. I have however broken the stock plastic shaft. And this was using 2s (before the ESC caught fire of course)

[@ApolloFX_CZ]

I use Aluminium parts directly from WL Toys and have none of these problems .......... just saying.

[@PlokProductions]

I wasn't aware that they had official WLtoys aluminum components Still though, aluminum stuff bends and stays bent, plastic bends and bounces back. Some of the aluminum stuff is worth it, but most of it isn't really.

[@PTMG]

Ayy whos this

[@PlokProductions]

ayyy

[@bobtierney6946]

Use BLUE lock-tight, not Red.

[@PlokProductions]

yeah I definitely bought some right after dremelling through the red stuff

[@aaronroberts3848]

I'm sorry but if u don't know what u are doing and how to use the materials don't complain and give stuff bad reviews. Pro tip for the beginner. First don't use red loctite and if u do allows u have to do is use a little heat to get loose. A soldering iron works great for small metal parts . Also any heim joint requires some form of lubrication and if not done will wear out and bind

[@PlokProductions]

lmfao okay kiddo " if u don't know what u are doing and how to use the materials don't complain and give stuff bad reviews" Didn't give anything a "bad review" not really sure what you are on about there. Not really sure what materials you think I don't know how to use but like okay lol. "Pro tip for the beginner." What about that was a pro tip? "don't use red loctite" Wow it's almost like I acknowledged that in the video lmfao "Also any heim joint requires some form of lubrication and if not done will wear out and bind" ..... yeah..... ? .... that's why I said to lubricate it .... in the video ... lmfao What even is this comment dude

[@Regit88]

This background music is not necesary :/

[@PlokProductions]

too late

[@marcswan3559]

ALU MINI UM!!!!! not alu minum....

[@PlokProductions]

every once in a while I say aluminium

[@havivmishali9847]

I like all what you trying to teach us but hold the swearing back there is a lot of kids listening to you

[@PlokProductions]

There shouldn't be It's listed as not for kids. The fact that you can leave comments btw is how you can determine easily which videos are for kids. Videos meant for kids have comments disabled. If there are kids listening that is on their parents or god.

[@captainchaos3053]

It's a toy.

[@PlokProductions]

A pretty damn fun toy