Tamiya P-38F Lightning 08 - Markings & Stencils

[@talgov01]

Thank you for sharing your failures as well as your successes. We learn a WHOLE lot more that way. You are the best!

[@nilootero4832]

HGW transfers have provided me with superb performance and disastrous failure. Anybody else suffer from disintegration coming off the sheet? That's a failure before I even get to the adhesive issues.Do they have a briefer shelf life than anyone suspects? I've had them work beautifully with Mr. Mark Softer and other times stick doggedly to the exact spot they first impacted the surface....I'm using them on MRP lacquers. My relationship with HGW transfers is a complicated one.Sorry to hear your's is too. After those rivets went down so perfectly for you I was so impressed!

[@lesgl]

The new formula Mr Hobby H series with Aqueous printed on the front dry rock hard...even the gloss colours...worth seeking out

[@brandtall9639]

Eduard decales work the same way. I've had luck with Tamiya' softer used over the top to settle them down. Waiting 30 to 40 minutes and removing the carrier film with Tamiya masking tape. Greatest invention EVER. Awsome looking build. Love your patience which shows in the result you achieve.

[@chrishuffman6734]

I love the Mediterranean markings with the yellow ring around the outer roundel on the P-38. Not something you see everyday.

[@DoogsModels]

Yeah I'm super partial to Torch markings!

[@johnwoodside8714]

Damn that was some recovery, awesome ending

[@danl.909]

When I was a kid, this kind of nightmare would end up with the model transported to my local drainage ditch, set afire, and shot to pieces with my BB gun.

[@michaelnaven213]

Nice recovery with the transfers.

[@kudukilla]

The color shifting shown on the paint mule from the decal solution is why I clear coat before decals.

[@JuanGarcia-up2gz]

Awesome recovery my friend now I what to do if I have that problem

[@Rogerholberg]

I feel your pain. Modeling - what a hobby.

[@tonya4157]

Thanks for another great video! Endeavour to persevere... :-)

[@PhuVet]

Sometimes you have to hit the hgw transfers with more mr mark softer again...they need help dissolving sometimes. I use mark fit strong sometimes too.

[@MrKov1985]

The hgws did that to me too. On a tamiya 1/32 Corsair build no less. Couldn’t peel them up at all. I think the mr softer was too hot, melted the clear underneath it and it stuck.

[@LSUtiger607]

The coat of pure MLT you applied...... must it be done so before the clear coat dries? What’s the purpose for it again? Nice work.

[@DoogsModels]

Yeah has to be done before it dries fully. It basically helps the clear level out a bit more.

[@raymondrosario9893]

God love you Matt...those transfers would have sent me into the stratosphere. Just some questions...in lieu of the Gunze H 30 clear, do you think Aqua Gloss would have worked? As far as the stencils, do you think you it was that particular stencil or has HGW switched their manufacturing process? I like the wet stencil approach and have seen your success in the past. I don't have an issue using decals but if l go the wet transfer route, especially after seeing this l am worried. Otherwise, great job as always. My Lightning is slowly coming along. I did some cockpit wall wiring and am just about through applying the Quinta Studio decals. I am actually about to hit a hobby store for some aluminum paint...this will be my third and final attempt for this paint before hitting Sprue Brothers. Again, great job

[@DoogsModels]

I don't know if they switched their process - these were also available long before the Tamiya kit so I have no idea their relative age (the rivets are newer). For all I know this could just be a one-off problem or one run just didn't get thick enough transfer film, who knows. I don't think Aquagloss would've worked necessarily either. Can't say for sure without experimenting, but won't be going back for a while at this point.

[@raymondrosario9893]

Ok...l think l will try them but using some on a test first. As a precautions I will order the Funk Decals as well as l have two other Tamiya P-38s in my collection. Thanks Matt

[@androot69]

I just have one question sir. Why with all that wear the merkings stay untuched? Did the crew keep reapplying them after every chip of paint? Especially around the fuel caps. I'm sorry I'm not that knowledgable.

[@65TossTrap]

Matt, what do you think of silver pencil for minor scratches and chips?

[@DoogsModels]

Not a big fan. IMO it always looks like silver pencil

[@onurerdincler3107]

you know ive been watching you since the F104 black basing tutorial video, dont remember the year exactly but its been a while. I feel if this wet transfer situation was back then you would have abandoned the kit altogether and said fuck it. Awesome results pushing through with it, i had no idea you faced these issues when i saw the instagram posts so top job. One point i want to make is that based on the overall aesthetic of the aircraft with the chipping and tonal variation i think the roundels should get some light chipping and color variation too. I know you have done your research on this and are far more knowledgeable than me, mine is just a feel thing but what do you think?

[@DoogsModels]

Roundels will get some love in the next round.

[@48_Crash]

Hey Matt - i am on the finishing line too at this model - I have used the EDUARD Decal Sheet for this and believe it's the same stuff like HGW. I appreciate the idea behind the concept with the removable film. Unfortunately there are some shortcomings. 1. The printing quality is not very good. When i compare it to the Tamiya ones i can see that the stenceling is unsharp, too fat and the elements are sometimes not in scale because they are a way too large. 2. When i use the bigger ones, i have problems to get them into panellines because they are (after removing the film) very brittle and did not react to Sol - so i have to repair many of this places with manual painting afterwards. - On "plane" areas they work perfect. I am curious about the evolution of this technique - maybe we have the perfect decal method in some years... - Btw. your model looks great!

[@martinslovak6094]

Hery Matt, does the Tamiya adhesive/softener work well with Tamiya/Airfix decals? I was wondering if I should buy it for these specifically (Micro Set+Sol works for most decals but no luck with Airfix / Tamiya ones...atleast for me). BTW: Very nice and informative video as usual, thanks

[@DoogsModels]

I generally don't even touch Tamiya decals. I tested one of their stencils and the carrier film was soooo thick. Nothing can reduce thickness like that except sealing and sanding back.

[@martinslovak6094]

@@DoogsModels thanks for response (seems the gloss lacquer and sanding the decals down is the only way)

[@DoogsModels]

Or finding better decals (or masking but that's generally out for small stencils)

[@raymondrosario9893]

If there's any gig to Tamiya's kits it's their decals. I did their first Spitfire in the early 90s. The step between the decals and the model was high enough for me to get glasses from the top cupboard. As a rule, l always grab aftermarket decals for their kits even the newer ones.

[@6axlepwr]

Just a question. With all the chipping done and then putting the decals over it, would the lettering and such also be chipped off in the areas that are chipped? At 22:58 I see the red circles and lettering near them. There is a lot of it over the chipped paint area.

[@DoogsModels]

Looking at references, areas with stencils over them (like the NO STEP by the canopy sill) seem to hold up. I wonder if it's just the extra layers of paint giving them a bit more durability

[@6axlepwr]

I was curious about that. I see that a lot with railroad equipment. Paint looks like crap, but the lettering seems to hold up well. Thanks for the quick reply. BTW, love your enthusiasm for your new model. Just watched your video before this one. It is ALWAYS great to listen to modelers that are excited about their hobby.

[@allanrichards6448]

What a nightmare with those reverse decals as I call them. Such a late stage in the model to get an issue like that has the potential of ruining many hours work. In an obtuse way if expert, experienced modelers like you have difficulties then I don't feel so bad about all the things that I have had go wrong that has turned a model from a pleasure to a dog fight to get finished. Most recently Tamiya masking tape on Tamiya gloss paint. When I pulled the tape off the glue from the tape stayed with the paint ruining hours of work. What the eff was all that about, don't they test these sorts of thing? It doesn't happen with matt finishes though.

[@egyeneskifli7808]

Angry smiley left aft fuel filler...

[@owenchristie6958]

Nice work man; also nice kill on the bug (I can’t spell it lol)

[@solarneptune7342]

Loving the videos, Matt. But could you please tone down the profanity? I like to watch with my young boys, for them to learn modelling techniques. Otherwise - fantastic

[@DoogsModels]

No