love the video but bro you might want to hydrate more

U can use linseed oil to thin out the oil paint .

I think in japan people dont like star wars stuff as much, the proof is in history of star wars, in japan space battleship yamato was bigger in 1977 as in it beat episode 4 in japan, so space battleship yamato model kits get to be bigger and their is tons of different space battleship yamato ships that get produced

I knew you were going to do proper boot prints. Incredible

Its an ugly aircraft, but I saw a sea hurricane in white and I was inspired to build one now.

Eight years late to this one, but what a gem. Chuckled my arse off. From my equal enjoyment of SCU, it seems it's still a relevant topic too. That qualifies it as a timeless classic in my book. Airfix would re-box it.

I miss the Doogs rants… when are we doing more fucking raw discussions like this bro…

both the Tamiya A and B are Awesome.... with 1 exception, if you want to build either in a flying mode the landing gear doors don't fit very well( at all really)... even still best F-35 kits out there and I'm looking forward to their C model in a couple months!!!

are you alive man? please come back we gotta see the finished weasels!

434 Aaliyah Summit

The Hasegawa 1/48 scale Tomcat is trickier to build but the overall shape is the most accurate of the real F-14. One major flaw of the Tamiya 1/48 is the nose random. It is way too thin. On the real one it is almost as wide as is the height. ( looking head on).

do you have tracks for merkava 3 and abrams m1a2?

Doogs So I've been thinking a lot about bare metal finishes... Me: YES! I found the right video, finally. Doogs: That sounded fin terrible. Me: NOOOOOOO! Doogs: Yes. Me: I'm using Vallejo, help!! Doogs: wtf Noob.

So to build a decent F14B, I suppose you could buy Tamiya F14D, and fit it with GRU7 seats? Or are there many other subtle diff😂?

David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Saturday, 5 October, 2024) Your mix of fatalistic dubiety and bitter disgust makes me reluctant even to consider starting this kit (even if I could afford it). Have you built any of Tamiya’s 1:48th-scale kits of the early variants of Lockheed’s P-38 Lightning USAAF Twin-Engine Single-Seat Fighter-Interceptor? (I as yet have been unable to buy them.) I just recently saw the Tamiya 1:48th-scale kit of the Lockheed P-38J Lightning USAAF Twin-Engine Single-Seat Fighter-Interceptor (TAM61123); I have yet to find one of a P-38L, though. I understand that their fit and assembly are so well engineered that building them is enjoyable. These might offer one some guidance as to how to resolve the issues you face.

The fuel pump fairings you mention round 10:32 first appeared on the late P-28J Lightnings, according to Bert Kinzey in his P-38 Lightning Derail & Scale monograph, which he establishes through the photographic record.

I share your frustration! Talking of frustration, where have you gone?

Just dropped some $$'s and bought this kit. I watched this series when it first came out and am going back and re-watching as a guide for my own build. I love your videos and would love to see you back on YT! BTW - I love your joy when you discover how well this thing goes together.

Thank you for this great video. You have saved me a lot of grief when I build mine! 😅

I like MRP paint for the SEA camouflage. It does have a slight semi gloss sheen. Would you recommend Tamiya instead that dries flat? thanks

Be prepared... the fit forward of the intakes for the 3 fuselage parts is horrible (or my parts are warped) either way, it's a fight. Almost trashed this one. Dane

Doog, The little piece that goes in the intakes should be the TAT Probe (total air temperature) probe. Great video as usual. Thanks for doing these.

Nice to see you do an armour kit!!!! Fair dues to you, me oul sausage!

Whatever happened to this guy. He was always present, telling everyone how great a scale modeller he was. Guess he’s spat the dummy for some reason.🤣

Three years later, still the greatest reference on OD sandwich shading.

So at the end of the day. Tamiya f-14 kit wins every time. If you want a f-14b then. It’s get a tamiya kit and convert it

Overdone.

excellent stuff Matt. worked out of the box. Thank you for making this available.

This has been a very frustrating kit. I finally got the wings on after installing the aftermarket Eduard engines and as I was trying to realign a wing I heard a crack and it was the bottom of the fuselage split in two I’m guessing because of the weight of the wings coupled with bad fit. It’s really frustrating. That’s after like two weeks of gap filling and sanding and riveting.

Hello. This squeme is equivalent to Su-27 blue 388 Demo Flanker ?... MRP SU-35 paint is the right?

thx

Great series. Thanks.

México antes se llamaba mexicano solo que estados unidos le quito la mitad del nombre ahora se llama México ya no mexicano el territorio que estados unidos le quito a México se llamaba cano pero ahora México yano es mexicano es México México pero la mitad de su territorio y la mitad del nombre que viva Ucrania 🇨🇴🇨🇴

David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Saturday, 22 June, 2024) (Edited for content, and to correct errors.) I am looking for a veteran model-builder’s explication of building accurately and detailing Hong Kong Models’s 1:32nd-scale kit of the Boeing B-17G Flying Fortress USAAF Heavy Bomber. Your explanation below the title reads “Getting underway with HK’s 1/48 B-17G Flying Fortress”. However, your playlist reads “Hk Models b-17g 1/32 build Mike Anderson 1/11”. Which is the case, please? Also, are you Mike Anderson? I’m David. Already you find disappointment in the kit, which troubles me. An especially salient case in point is the flight deck bulkhead with the “pill shaped things that need to be painted yellow”. I have seen better in 1970s Monogram kits! Incidentally, could these raised shapes be portable oxygen tanks for altitudes round 3,000 metres and above? Therefore, do any aftermarket firms make any detail set (photo-etch, resin, 3D, etc.) of the interior: 1) flight deck; 2) radioman’s and navigator’s stations; 3) bomb bay; 4) bombardier’s station; 5) waist gunners’ stations, with improved machine-guns for each position, 6) tail gunners’ station, 7) dorsal and ball turrets; 8) positionable figurines of flight crew, suitable for placing at their posts. Externally, 1) engines (one likely would buy just one to display with cowl removed); 2) cowl exhausts and turbo-superchargers; 3) landing gear bays. Related airfield accoutrements: 1) tow tractor, 2) bomb trolleys, 3) fuel truck, 4) bomb loader, 5) airfield concrete slabs; 6) positionable figurines of crew chief and mechanics; 7) air-raid machine-gun nest; 8) headquarters/control tower, with air wing commander. Alternately, could you fashion the masters of replacement parts (e.g., the pilot’s yoke) that an aftermarket detailing/correction set maker could reproduce? From what little I know of such things, 3D printing would be the best option. The molds to form resin parts last for just round seventy or eighty castings. The dust from resin cast parts is toxic, too. This kit actually has two iterations: early, with the older tail gun position, and late-war, with the Cheyenne tail gun position. I also would like to build a 1:32nd-scale kit of a Boeing B-17F, and another of a Boeing B-17E. Amongst numerous others. If this 1:32nd-scale kit proves an annoyance, I, as Doctor of Silliness (my friends make fun of my jokes; my life is and has been terribly difficult, so I laugh at suffering to ward it away) prescribe a year’s treatment with one each of Tamiya’s kits of the Chance Vought F4U Corsair USN/-USMC/FAA Fighter series in the same scale; and to continue till your jokes are sillier than mine. Then continue on to Hong Kong Models’s 1:32nd-scale kits of the Consolidated B-24D/J Liberator USAAF Heavy Bomber. Next, convert one to a Consolidated PB4Y-1 Liberator USN Maritime Convoy Patrol Bomber in the USN tri-colour camouflage scheme, airborne, its propellers spinning; Border Model makes a 1:35th-scale plastic model kit of the conning tower and a portion of the hull of a DKM Typ VIIc Unterseeboot (U-Boat) that if I could, I would display as it succumbs to the fearsome blast of a pair of 160-kg U.S. Navy air-dropped depth charges. I next would modify a third B-24D kit to make a replica of a Consolidated C-87 Liberator Express USAAF High-Altitude Cargo Transport. Also, could one convert a B-24J kit to a model of a B-24H or a B-24M, or both? I personally prefer posing my aircraft in flight, though some ground displays can be quite interesting; an early USMC Corsair under a line of palm trees upon a Pacific island beach, the crew chief and mechanics repairing its engine whilst the aviator awaits their completion. I also would ask that you create a build video series of each model.

The cockpit looks great but I believe you're missing all the wires that are behind the Martin Baker ejection seats, but I like the way it's coming along

It's a primer but it could be used as a matt varnish 😊

sei eccezionale ed è molto simpatico il tuo modo di parlare, descrivendo con parole forti anche qualche passaggio..impegnativo. potresti suggerirmi i corretti colori? io uso i tamiya e gunze. grazie

I got mine at a massive discount, despite seeing all the issues with it, still excited to work with the kit.

A LOT of painstaking work, but looks REALLY nice

Looks good.

Hello! Tell me how do you get that super glossy black base coat? With all the steps please

This seem very over engineered.

outstanding work.i have mine in the stash next on the bench I only hope I can achieve a similar outcome .

I mix the transpiratory with an acrylic colour, the benefit is that I get my prime & first coat in one step.

By the way, at 32:58 you mention the fragility of the masts and other rigging poles. They are definitely tricky and quite delicate. However, doing metal of any type will be a challenge becasue, aside from the mast itself, the rigging poles are tapered at the ENDS (i.e., thicker in the middle, tapering at some point to a thinner end). So, this means the thinnest part of the pole is the part that goes into the hole and is afixed to the boa - the point where th epost strength is needed! Nonetheless, I used thin rubber line (E-Z-Line) that workd great. You do have to be very careful, and make precise measurements to guage the "cause and effect" of each step becasue, with the stretchy line, putting added tension at any point affects the entire rigging system. Nonetheless, I, a new novice at 56, was able to rig it just fine with good effect and no sagging. Of course, it's nbever perfect, but neither would the boat itself have been perfectly square accross all its rigging poles. Using brass solid stock might be an option, then sanding down the ends for the taapering effect, alpong with removing some of the fittings from the plastic parts to place them on the brass to match the intended detail. IF ANYONE KNOWS OF AFTERMARKET RIGGING POLES/MASTS, PLEASE POST THEM. Most opf the photo-etch kits do have some extras for the rigging - like the pulley/block-and-tackle joining points at several places, Also, there is some new aftermarket material that includes the details necessary to convert the antennae systemn to a pneumatic/automatic (non-manual) one, which happened not long after the launch of the U9 I wish there were a deck gun upgrade becasue, as I understand it, the two .303 machine guns for AA use were only in use in the very first few days of the way, to be replaced very soon by a medium-bore (4"?) deck gun for a more standard early-war configuration (AA position on cigarette deck, and canon immediately fore of the sail for use during surface action against armed boats. Anyone know what type off deck gun with which the early U-9 class ships were fitted (and bonus question: where a resin kit can be purchased)?

I use Stynylrez. The gray and white, anyway. Haven't used the black, yet. A couple of points: Do NOT let it freeze! If it freezes, it's ruined and nothing can be done to restore it to usability. I've also read of others having it go bad when stored under bright lights. Keep it shaded. I use a single action, external mix airbrush with a .5mm needle/nozzle to spray it at 20 psi. I wouldn't really recommend using a double action internal mix brush because, as you discovered, it does take a bit more work to clean up.

jesus buddy

"It doesn't matter all that much what you put underneath your paint". No kiddin'? Because it's primer? Gosh! Pure Genius!

Just a quick note. Im glad to know the GW is the better choice. I started to skip anything on the Kitty until I realized how much I could learn about fixing bad kits. Glad you followed though despite your Kitty Fs clearly expiring early