Control Arm Welding..... Tips & Tricks.

[@jamesmulanax1424]

Howdy: I am really enjoying the show! Your build is giving me confidence to go beyond the many go-karts I have done to building suspension components for my classic truck (I know... a different animal). That said, the Ackerman you have explained is perfect for the typical old automobile with a solid front axle and solid one-piece tie rod. What really is important for Ackerman regarding independent suspension is the spacing on the rack mounting points. As long as the steering rod mounting points are located equidistant on both sides, the rack mounting points will make all the difference for your Ackerman. The math and physics behind independent suspension is truly complicated... I tip my hat to those engineers.

[@DougBugBuilder]

Thanks for the info.

[@dougstrain1122]

I really appreciate the work you are doing, I will never do the kind of stuff you are working on, but seeing it done is inspiring!

[@DougBugBuilder]

Glad you are liking the videos, and thanks for the nice comment! 👍

[@SuperMorlord]

When I do control arms I preload them out 1/8" or so depending on size using all thread. They ALWAYS pull inwards, more than out. Usually end up perfect, or require pulling in a hair, which is easily done with the same ready rod assembly much quicker than setting up the press. Nice work!

[@DougBugBuilder]

Thanks for the tip! I might try that when I do the rear control arms. 👍

[@rickrack78]

On the a-arm legs, you could use a rosebud tip on your gas torch and heat them both to dull cherry and let them cool to relieve stress

[@DougBugBuilder]

I actually don't know if that will work or not. But I'll give it a try when I do the rear arms. Thanks for the idea!

[@rickrack78]

You only have to heat a short area of each leg. And just enough to tell that it’s changing. I don’t know how quickly they will heat/cool, but both should be “at temp” together. I have seen people do it how you do, what I described is just another option.

[@thezombikilla]

One trick is to save one of the bushing tubes to be the very last thing you weld so you can move it to the right place after everything has warped.

[@DougBugBuilder]

Dude, that's brilliant! I might try that for the rear. Thanks!

[@bloodredhornet2704]

Good work on your videos and great instruction. I’ve even picked up a few lessons about how to set up the shop. Keep it up.

[@DougBugBuilder]

Glad you like the videos! Thanks for the comment.

[@АлександрАлександров-ч9й5л]

Very beautifully done work. Красиво выполнена работа.

[@DougBugBuilder]

Thanks!

[@davewilliams6172]

Great video and it's good to see a lot of progress...I just hope the hub end of each arm is in the right place now (fore and aft), without welding in a fixed jig you run the risk of major distortion.

[@DougBugBuilder]

You are right, if it did move much I might be able to adjust for it with the upper control arm. I can make adjustments with the Heims. I don't think it will be noticeable though.

[@memoaa7467]

Nice video buddy, will take in mind that 1/8" shrink when doing my A arms fab.

[@carbonshocks]

Looking good! 🤟😎

[@DougBugBuilder]

Thanks! Good luck with the build.

[@JDawgBuilds]

Man wish this video was out a couple weeks ago lol. My coworker and I just made a Tacoma Long Travel kit. We're going to install it today!!!!! (Hopefully) We test fit everything and painted it last night. We notice our upper arms got spaced out a bit...

[@DougBugBuilder]

I take full responsibility for not getting this out in time. ;-) I'm sure your parts will be fine, if you built it you can fix it.

[@JP_delta]

Nice and clean! Have you used mild steel plate or high tensil plate?

[@DougBugBuilder]

This is just regular old mild steel.

[@DKG505]

Great information! And what transaxle did you choose for the build?

[@DougBugBuilder]

Weddle HV25

[@carbonshocks]

Steel it is $$$ but it holds up amazing. I feel you tough. I bought 2 cases to do my complete rig in Steel it black!

[@DougBugBuilder]

I love Steel it, I'll use it on some of the parts. But I can't use it on everything. It's to much $$. 😉

[@carbonshocks]

@@DougBugBuilder well if you ever need me feel free to message me I usually order a couple cases from car tech at a time. thankfully I have a dealer account so I get them for a few bucks cheaper but it's definitely not cheap but usually in on stuff that sees abuse and ultra 4 racing and off-road I'm very impressed with how it holds up. One of the things I like about it most is if I've got to weld or repair it's not so much that it is weldable paint but rather it doesn't give a horrible hard edge like most paint when it burns off. it's a super clean edge that you can blend and you simply respray it and you never know that you had to do something there

[@DougBugBuilder]

@@carbonshocks Thanks Bud!

[@dorsk84]

Look into Eastwood paints. It's a 2 part epoxy paint, I have heard some good stuff about. Bit pricey, but if it holds up it...

[@DougBugBuilder]

I'll check it out, thanks for the tip!

[@dorsk84]

@@DougBugBuilder This is a channel I follow. This is the video where he paints his roof rack with that paint. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKDNm3SgmLaaeJI

[@Lemosoffroad]

You should get the chassis shield summit sells it will take way more abuse than either one of those spray paints

[@DougBugBuilder]

I'll look that up, thanks for the tip.

[@ciobanuvalentinmail]

Great man, i like it. Nice explained. Thank you. I have an ideea, if you connect that two arms with a segment, will not shrink at the welding stage. They are to lose, lonely, and at welding was a big shrink. Another questions if you don't mind, why are you use rectangular shape for the arms? I was make it my arms from pipe, round sections. As i understand the pipes have a good strenght on all axxes and a low weight. It's more dificult to work with the tube pipe than the rectangular, but you have more qualities obtained. For example all the segments to a crane are from pipes tubes round shape, more elastic, more strenght, less weight. Please don't be angry at me, i'm just asking, i wanna learn, that why i'm asking. You are the specialist, you and all the great machinist on the web, use rectangular shape for the arms, and i don't know why, i'm just a small passioned guy. See you.

[@DougBugBuilder]

Thanks bud!

[@tahaalassaad1948]

Insted of pushing everything in the opposite direction of shrinking, try heating everything to red hot and then keep it normalizing so you don't have constant stress on your components

[@DougBugBuilder]

"Thermal Stress Relieving", I'd like to do that but it requires a furnace that you can put the part in and heat it up. I'd have to have that professionally done. But you are right, that would be the best and strongest way to correct it.

[@DJ-yp4kc]

try using a piece of all thread and a couple of nuts to set the opening,...,preload it with the nuts before welding

[@DougBugBuilder]

That would help, but I'm afraid if I didn't have the tube in there pinched in place the bushings might twist some, maybe.

[@RapidFlicks-g1n]

Brother I love your build and your work it’s just fantastic, cuestion please: what size of uniballs and HMS are you using because in my sandrail or buggy however you want to call it I have 1” inch hole uniballs and 1” inch to 3/4 HMS and the rail is running now but I don’t have much of steering, what do you recommend ??? I hope you understand what I am trying to say, thanks !!!

[@DougBugBuilder]

My uniballs are 1" and the Heims are 3/4". My steering is going 30 degrees in either direction. If you feel like you're not getting enough check that your misalignment spacers are deep enough.

[@kevinlafleur7044]

Maybe use a torch to heat up and stress relieve that arm instead of pressing it?

[@DougBugBuilder]

Only way to do that is to heat up everything at the same time so it can all relax. It would need to be done in an oven. It's called "Thermal Stress Relieving" You're on the right path though, that is the best way to do it.

[@km6832]

Genuine question, cause im seeing it in my head but i dont know if it makes sense practically. Wouldnt it be better to attach the arms to the chassis and weld it on there so you already compensate for the shrinkage?

[@DougBugBuilder]

The shrinkage would still happen and possibly distort the tabs in the process. I think you can either press it out after like I did, preload it before welding, or stress relieve it when done. But I appreciate your thinking outside the box. 👍

[@km6832]

@@DougBugBuilder okay cool. But the shrinkage would be to fit no?

[@DougBugBuilder]

@@km6832 It would only be to fit if you welded the arms first. And then mounted the tabs. If the tabs were welded first. Then when you weld the arm it will shrink. If you welded it in place, once you pulled it out of the tabs it would snap in like it did to me. And you would have to press it back out to get it back in the tabs.

[@km6832]

@@DougBugBuilder ah i get it now so either way shrinkage in unavoidable

[@DougBugBuilder]

@@km6832 Unfortunately yes! 👍

[@guncalinhosiqueira8547]

👏👏👏👏👍👍🙋great

[@DougBugBuilder]

Thanks!

[@chooboflex8154]

What you use model welding ?

[@DougBugBuilder]

Are you asking what type of welder I'm using?

[@chooboflex8154]

@@DougBugBuilder yes type and model

[@DougBugBuilder]

@@chooboflex8154 The Tig is a Lincoln Square Wave Tig 175, and the Mig is a Miller Millermatic 220.

[@gmmg2593]

I want to build a trophy kart. But some thing a bit different. I have looked around for just a cab chassis and can’t find anything in my area. So that left me with building one. Does anyone know where I can get the blue prints/dimensions for a two seater trophy kart just so I can get started and see what I need to do? Please and thank you for your input and help.

[@DougBugBuilder]

I can send you the dimensions of this chassis. But that will be to big for a trophy cart.

[@gmmg2593]

Doug Bug yes that would be great if you did that. Thank you

[@DougBugBuilder]

@@gmmg2593 Email me at [e-mail] and I'll send you the file.