The actual fenders can't be used as a mold. The mold has to be an "outside" copy of the part I want to make. Make the mold off what you want to make, in this case the fenders. Then when you make the fiberglass part it will be a copy of the original piece.

@@DougBugBuilder Thank you, it just seemed like a lot of effort for ‘only’ some fenders but I understand what you mean - this is the only way to get an exact copy. I do appreciate you taking the time to not only produce these videos but for replying too. Cheers 👍

I never calculated the instant center. What I did was lay out the geometry of the pivot points of the upper and lower arms and the steering arm so they all were all in line with each other, at least geometrically. This way when the suspension went through its motion there is no bump steer. Roll center and instant center were not my primary concerns, suspension travel was my main goal. I hope that helps.

@@DougBugBuilder Thanks Doug! We modeled our suspension off yours and couldn’t seem to calculate instant center as upper and lower control arms are close to parallel (formula was coming back with 198”)…. So likely little bump steer. Your videos have really helped us (and his high school buddies….they’re learning to weld, use plasma cutter, calculate geometries, spring loading on coil overs, etc). Thank you again!

Interlocking tabs would be better, but cutting out the parts is trickier. Using the rosette welds is easier, and I've never had any separation issues.

Thanks, I appreciate the comment. Glad you liked the video.

It's best to let it dry almost all the way. The gelcoat should be just a little bit tacky when you lay the fiberglass over it.

33" tires on the front. At full bump the chassis is 2.5" off the ground. But that's seeming to be a little short, maybe shoot for 3". The tires squish more than I expected. My suspension can go up more, quite a bit more before anything binds. But that doesn't do any good if the chassis hits the ground.

Email me at [email protected] and I'll send you the files.

I haven't bought any in years, but back when I did I got them from McMaster Carr.

@@DougBugBuilder thanks a lot... now i have to look for in their catalog!

@@DougBugBuilder yep they can be purchased yet through McMaster Carr but Wilson Tools still sell them

Thank you 👍

Thanks!

No problem 👍 Thanks for the comment.

Glad it helped, thanks for the comment.

I'd say the VW Bus transaxle, like the one in this video. (the smaller one)

Those are 31 x 9.5 x 15

I thought I didn't need it just for the mold. But I was wrong, I always use gelcoat on my molds now. It works much better.

Email me at [email protected] and I can send you dimensions for the frame.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.

How was the transition going away from the bypasses? Losing the springs and using nitrogen is interesting.

​@@DougBugBuilder I'm no bypass tuning wiz, but they worked pretty well the way we received them. I work directly with ORI, so we were inevitably going to run them regardless. My job was to make them work a least as good as the shocks we pulled off, if not better. My honest opinion: They're comparable in performance, but entirely different in concept. To know how to make either one work well, you need to understand how they work, and understand it well. We're still playing with them, trying different configurations and such. We managed to finish an Ultra 4 national race and king of the hammers with them. I will say this. The biggest performance gains come from geometry, not the suspension. The weight saving was a surprise to all of us, being that the ORIs are mostly made out of aluminum and do not run a coil at all.

Not a bad idea, thanks for the tip.

Glad you liked the video and my dog. 🐕 👍 Thanks for the comment.

Thanks! ✌