THE ONE EXPOSURE MODE TO RULE THEM ALL?

[@Mthompson4545]

Thanks! Although I am an OM System user, this video about exposure was a great way to be reminded of the basics. Especially the way your exposure controls the amount of noise and the importance of exposing to the right when using higher ISOs. If you haven’t done it already, could you do a video explaining how to merge two images together like you did with the ducks so that each was in focus?

[@Duade]

G'day and thank you so much for the support, I really do appreciate it. For the ducks, I use photoshop and masks. So you can add the base image first. Then you place the second image on top. Move that second image so the sharp subject is over the soft one from image 1. You then place a layer mask on that second image. You then need to invert the mask Ctrl + I which will hide that second image. Now we can select the painbrush tool, make sure you have the softness to zero so no hard edges, make sure the painbrush colour is changed to white which will reveal the second image. You can then paint over the soft bird with the paintbrush and it will reveal the top sharp image. You often need to paint an area around the subject to make sure none of the bottom bird is showing. You may need to reduce the opacity of the brush down to say 10-15% if the transition between images is too harsh and distinct. Hopefully that makes sense and I really should do a processing course in the future. Cheers, Duade

[@jeffreyschutt7451]

Thanks!

[@Duade]

Thanks Jeffrey for the continued support, I really appreciate it, is there any topic or area you would like me to cover? Cheers, Duade

[@geronimo6787]

This changes my Photography moving on from Av to flexibel mode! Great explanation! Thanks!

[@leechild3204]

Hey Duade, i'm fairly new to bird photography, just bought the R7. After some research I decided to primarily shoot in FV. I find it is making me think about my shots a lot more and I am enjoying it. These kind of videos certainly help with practical advice. Thank You!!!

[@Duade]

Thanks Lee, it is my pleasure and great to hear it is working well for you. Cheers, Duade

[@paulinefollett3099]

Duade, I always learn stuff from your videos. You make it so easy for a hobbyist such as myself.

[@RobertThomas-gf1tp]

Absolute wonderful video. I learned more in 30 minutes than I've learned in many of my college courses 40 years ago. I plan on changing my photography techniques to include the Fv mode. Keep up the videos. Love your accent and teaching method.

[@Duade]

Glad it was helpful!

[@terrypcktd]

Hi Duade. I use manual with auto iso on my R7. I have set my dials up as such with exposure compensation on the back wheel and shutter speed on the top wheel. This allows me to use my two most common settings as quickly and efficiently as possible. I shoot mostly with the RF100-500 so I usually shoot wide open but also have the ring on the lens to adjust my aperture. If I want to choose a manual iso setting I just hit the pre set iso button on top or I assigned the right arrow button to iso as I find this easier to find when looking through the viewfinder. Thanks for the video, super interesting and helpful in so many ways as usual.

[@SaitoGray]

I do that as well, FV mode is just and extra step. I also use the custom mode ready for burst mode without having to search the menu.

[@georgelpons]

The FV has a easy way to go to auto when wanted, I cant go Auto iso after pressing af-on or the shutter half way, in fv i can press the trash button to get to auto iso. I have a r5. I can pretty much stil use the front dial for exposure, the lens for apperture und the back dial and wheel to jump between iso and compensation. I mostly shoot in av, but i use fv more and more, as i like to have a button press to auto iso or to reset all setting a longer press of the trash button. Its a bit weird, i had an z6 and the only thing i miss so far is, is the methode you can change the iso settings (iso button + front dial to switch between auto and manual, back dial to set the iso). I like to have 3 dials on the body, and have for everything important a dial is superb. But it frustrates me a bit that i either have to set the camera, to go back to auto iso after reviewing a picture etc. That isnt always wanted or that i have to press m.fn then scroll to auto (when iso is high its a long way), or wait until the metering or af expire to be able to go back to auto iso. I know, it would be perfect when the trash button would do the same in other modes, but it doesnt (otherwise i would really have for the exposure triangle and compensation a own dial).

[@jiasios]

Ατ @6:52 the chart is wrong. 6 stops means 64 times less (or more) light. Not 12 times. So from ISO 100 you go to ISO 6400.

[@keithsalmon9892]

That was so informative. I am off to set up FV mode. Great vid Duade, keep 'em coming. Thanks

[@utubify100]

Very informative video again, Duade - nice job! Thank you for the continued efforts in providing education & entertainment to the community I definitely enjoyed the clips from the field again and seeing the cool species you get to spend your time with in that part of the world. I think I liked the in focus hen Wood Duck & out of focus male shot better than the blended one, but it's obviously all about personal preference. Both shots were, of course, very well done. The recap on exposure was a good one for those getting started and trying to figure it all out. I thought it was clear and concise. Your mention of the non ISO invariant sensors in the Canon cameras was a good one. I often forget about it out of habit, but feel it is quite important to consider when determining what exposure to set, especially if you shoot other camera brands with invariant sensors. I also found the tip on using the eye tracking & shooting multiple frame compositions with the Kookaburra enlightening. I never thought of trying that before. It's funny because I have merged plenty of frames in LR for landscapes and astro in the past; just never thought of using it for wildlife in that way. Thanks much for the advice there! I will surely get that a shot next time it is needed. I have tried the Fv mode and find that Manual with auto ISO works better for me most of the time. When shooting wildlife I almost never touch my ISO & so having 2 wheels works for me on the R7. I find Fv slower usually; feeling like I have to take 2 steps to change one value (if that value is not already highlighted). The only time I use it on occasion is with gloves, when I find the small Q/set button in the middle of the D pad hard to manipulate. In those instances, using just the 2 wheels in Fv mode can seem better. Thanks again for another great video & may you find many willing subjects there at the end of summer. Best regards ~ Chris

[@Duade]

Thanks Chris, wonderful comments and thanks for the feedback, yes, I think we tend to stick with what works for us and manual plus auto ISO is the most common and easiest mode for most. Yes the stitching does not always work but getting more habitat around the subject can help later on. Have fun out there, Cheers, Duade

[@jmillerwhyte]

I am just coming across this video! I know, super late but very excited!! After almost 13 years happily running a T3i, it became like a body part so I was able to get amazing photos in good light. I upgraded to an R6II a few weeks ago. I just tried the FV mode that I had ignored as I was so use to shooting full manual. This has changed my photography life 🎉. That an of course the incredible upgrade that is the R6II. Now I will wait a few years for an R7II to make my ASPC mirrorrless as well. THANK YOU!!!!!!

[@Duade]

It is my pleasure, glad to hear it is helping, have fun with the new camera, Cheers, Duade

[@jmillerwhyte]

@@Duade

[@johntreimanis-businessview2300]

Thanks

[@Duade]

Thanks for the support John, I appreciate it, Cheers, Duade

[@tordandreasson]

Hi Duade. When photographing birds on my Olympus cameras, I almost always use A mode with Auto-ISO and taking advantage of a feature where you specify the lowest acceptable shutter speed and the cap for the ISO. The camera will honor the shutter speed and crank up the ISO when needed, up to the cap set by the user. The ISO cap is mainly determined by the camera generation, for the OM-1 I will set the ISO cap to 6400; previous generation cameras would be lower; depending on how much noise you tolerate. For the shutter speed, I set it depending on the subject and shooting conditions. For static subjects and no wind I will use 1/100s... 1/500s depending on available light, for large predictable birds in flight typically 1/1000s...1/2000s, for challenging BIF photos of smaller birds at a closer distance as fast as it requires. This way I benefit from an exposure mode that is a hybrid of aperture and time priority that allows me full control of aperture and exposure compensation while still having some control of shutter speed at the same time. When adequate I tweak the settings and save them in one of the custom modes so I can quickly switch between modes with confidence that I will use values that give the results I am after. The only situation when this does not work as intended is when using long exposure time to blur wings and background when panning, then shooting in manual mode makes more sense. I am aware that you and most people in this channel use Canon gear but I wanted to share my experience. Cheers, Tord

[@Skene_O]

Never tried that before and will definitely give it a go when taking early morning surf pics. Thanks Duade.

[@Hummingbirder1]

This was VERY informative, Duade! I really didn't know what that dratted Fv was for. I just might try it out... soon-ish. When I can drag myself away from my Aussie info/planning sleuthing, that is... Now I need to know where this nice "duck-lake" is. If I'm correct it has featured often in your videos, one can never have too many back-up locations with birds used to humans, since they're easier to photograph! Is it close to Winton Wetlands, or somewhere else entirely? (distance = time = problems, when time is in short supply).

[@Duade]

A better lake would be Rutherglen which is about an hour from Winton and not too far off the Hume Highway that runs to Melbourne. Beechworth where I took these shots is a beautiful town and has a lot of Gang Gangs if you need that species but is a little off track but not too far. If you are looking for somewhere to stay the Glenrowan Caravan Park is close to Winton and has a bird bath that has a number of species that come to drink daily. Cheers, Duade

[@Hummingbirder1]

@@Duade Thx! I'm planning for us to stay in Wangaratta (Gardenview Lodge Motel) two nights, so we'll have at least one whole day, one afternoon and one morning in the area. And Gang Gangs certainly are VERY high up on our wish-list. Yesterday I was fretting over how to possibly see it, with our relatively short time in Victoria! The distance to Beechworth is certainly managable, and the tip about bird bath at Glenrowan Caravan Park could be useful if one is allowed in there, even if one doesn't camp there?

[@Duade]

Sounds good, you might not be aware but in Australia most caravan parks have cabins with power, showers etc just like a motel room and they are often in lovely locations with birds etc. Glenrowan Caravan Park is small but has cabins and the bird bath is right next to one of the Cabins, you could book that Cabin and shoot the birds from the porch. Good luck, Cheers, Duade

[@elke1317]

Hi Duade, as far as I know, you're the first one to rate FV mode positively. I will watch the video several more times because you speak quite quickly and I can't quite keep up with my English. But that doesn't matter. Your tips are very valuable. Thanks

[@Duade]

Hi Elke, it is a good option for cameras with two dials, a little less useful for cameras with three dials. Ultimately we all like different things and find different things easier or more difficult. Trying FV mode is at least a way to see if it would help you or not. For many they do not like it and that is fine, we need to try these things first to decide if it works for us or not. Good luck, Cheers, Duade

[@theunsvanniekerk1074]

Like your videos Duade. Regarding the exclusive Fv mode on Canon, they must have copied that from Pentax which has a similar feature on their DSLRs from before 2010 on their DSLRs. Pentax DSLRs have two very useful exposure mode dial settings: P-program mode, which is the Fv function you describe on Canon, it also has a TAv mode which is manual shutter and aperture with auto ISO. Another useful feature on Pentax is a green button on the back which seems to be the same as the "Trash" button function to reset the exposure you explained on the Canon. In Pentax you can also set the priority bias for the green button i.e. faster shutter vs aperture small or large i.e. depth of field. The green button will work regardless of which exposure mode you are in. The big benefit is that if you have the camera set for a specific scenario, and you suddenly need to change to react to a different scenario, you can just hit the green button while composing and the exposure is set. Please keep those bird photo techniques coming, it is very inspiring.

[@WalkForFreedomOz]

I've never heard of FV mode before. A very good explanation of how it works. 👍

[@Duade]

Thanks Justin, yes, very interesting and a nice option to have, Cheers, Duade

[@helyksitz]

Just purchased and man this is a task. Thank you so much for the time explaining all the various settings. Definitely following up for more tips and guidance. Blessings to you.

[@RogerJones-mountfield]

I searched this subject and started watching a few then realised you had covered this subject, thank goodness, well explained, Duade, I shoot manual with auto iso, will I change to FV, I don’t know yet, my fingers are programmed for my likes, I am interested and will give it a try, thanks great video as always 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@costasganasos4299]

Another excellent video Duade full of inspiration and new information. I must admit, if not the only one, you are one of the few photographers who help us beginners with your videos. Always with useful tips and tricks, and in depth analysis of the functionality of the camera, not only in your studio but also on the field. And for the people who read the comments, Duade is the only one who takes time to answer your questions and help you with your struggles in bird photography. Thanks mate!!! 👍🏼

[@Duade]

Thanks for the comment, I appreciate the feedback, I wish I could answer all the comments but there are so many these days. Hopefully someone in our beautiful community will answer. Cheers, Duade

[@kennethgnielsen]

Excellent video that takes the time to go through actual shooting situations with the thinking behind the settings and the results compared. All of this tied in with introduction and actual use of Fv Mode is a great introduction to the entire process of shooting with even some post production tips and explanation. Thank you Duane.

[@richardtustin]

I recently from DSLR Canon 5D Mark 4 and purchased the R6 V2 and am working through setting it up for bir/wildlife photography. I was actually going to go back to the manual as I wondered what Fv was - your post answered all my questions. Going to be my go to from now one instead of shutter priority which I have used for the past 15 yrs. Very useful info. Enjoying your series.

[@Duade]

Thanks Richard, good luck trying these things out, ultimately it is just finding a system which suits your style, none are right or wrong as such. Cheers, Duade

[@keithpyman8209]

Thanks so much for the clear explanation of FV Mode, really helpful

[@garrywatters1140]

I use it with my R5 and R6 along with the 800mm F11. I love it and how quick I can change ISO and shutter without having to move my eye from the viewfinder.

[@Duade]

Thanks Garry, great to hear it is working well for you. Cheers, Duade

[@lenf3641]

Thanks for the info about another useful feature of Canon cameras. However, I am not sure how "Fv" mode is better than each dedicated dial in "M" mode, which I am used to and don't even have to think about when changing exposure components in "M" mode. The danger of "Fv" mode is that when I need to switch exposure components, I have to change manually between them and can easily make a mistake doing this. In "M" mode I don't have to switch, just adjust with dedicated dials and avoid making a mistake.

[@mvp_kryptonite]

Yes that’s the beauty of having 3 dials to play with in M. You just use the dial that is mapped to what you need to change. But M doesn’t allow auto Tv Av like FV does. Iv never had 3 dials and am extremely comfortable in any setting so not really an issue for us both I guess but for new comers with 2 dials, it’s a interesting place to start given the histogram is live with mirrorless cameras

[@Running-withscissors]

Hey Duade I'd love to know what those 2 tripod setups are I saw. One in the field and one in studio? Why 2 different ones. Wouldn't the studio gear work in field? Finding low tripod gear that is dependable has been a problem for me.

[@Duade]

I go through my tripods in this video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqK3pp-nh8lofM0 I also use a mini iFootage tripod in the field which works well. Cheers, Duade

[@Running-withscissors]

@@Duade Hey! Thanks man. Ill check that video out. I like to shoot VERY low, but also, Im getting older and am disabled, AND I am the most Tripod Ignorant pro you can meet (I have to video call B&H for HELP!!!) LOL. So the help is appreciated ;)

[@adhi_atma]

in R7 the keypad will reset the selected settings or reset all the settings. so make sure you disable it in customize btn function. i assign my down key to reset all exposure setting and left key reset selected exposure setting .then assign my right & up key to other function .

[@Duade]

Thanks for that, Cheers, Duade

[@1EagleDave]

Yet another awesome video thanks.Duade I have been using the FV for some time now and yes confusing a tad, but I now love it. You have some if not the very best videos on you tube by far....

[@salmo6]

Thanks, Duade! I've never even looked at FV mode on my R6; I've always just ignored that setting on the mode dial. What it does looks interesting, but since the R6 already has 3 dials to control exposure, I doubt I will make use of it. I shoot about 90% of the time in manual with auto-ISO, and the the other 10% in full manual. I have my normal auto-ISO settings set to the C3 mode on the mode dial, and full manual set to C2. That way when I want to switch between them it's a simple one-click turn of the dial without even having to lift my eye from the viewfinder. Also, when I want to shoot video, video mode is only 1 click away from C3 in the other direction, so it's just as easy to switch back and forth between photo and video. The only other mode setting I ever use is C1 for the rare times when I use flash.

[@Duade]

Thanks David, yep, sounds like your system is the best, having the three dials and the ability for the C modes to remember your settings makes switching between them very useful. Cheers, Duade

[@tekguyphoto]

Tried it a few times on my R / R6 and I believe my old RP also had it. I don't like moving back and forth between what is in yellow or orange icon. I like it when my dials have a static function.

[@Duade]

Thanks Steve, yes, I understand and it is nice to have the three dials on the R6 so you can have each one dedicated to an input. Cheers, Duade

[@kifley19]

Is there would to keep it locked and then only change it with the touchscreen?

[@msyuan1124]

Your background in education really shows. Your videos clearly explain concepts reinforced by examples in the field. I will give Fv mode a try, but I really like your technique of merging multiple shots to show more of the environment around the bird. Thanks!

[@Duade]

Thanks Mark, glad to hear the videos are helpful and flow. Cheers, Duade

[@MrBrabo1]

As usual: an extremely educational and helpful video. Thanx!

[@amyfeeney7207]

I just love all of your videos, Duade. Thank you! Now I can’t wait to try out FV mode on my R7. Wish I’d known about it prior to my recent birding trip to CR where I mostly shot in M+Auto ISO. Challenging environment and often very low light conditions, but I managed to get some pretty good shots. In no small part because of all of your informative videos!😊

[@Duade]

That is wonderful Amy, glad to hear the videos are helping. I hope you got some lovely shots on your trip. Cheers, Duade 👍

[@TheodoreSchnell]

I had watched this video once before, but apparently I was working on photos at the same time and listening more than watching this video. But tonight, I actually watched and listened and learned a whole lot about FV mode that, after playing with it for just a few minutes on my R7 and then on my R5, FV is the mode I will be using mostly from now on. Thank you, as always, for your videos and the clear how-to teaching that you bring to us.

[@crbhagwat]

Duade, so far I have Been shooting with manual+ auto iso on my combo R7+ RF 100-500. But then the problem I had was changing the aperture with control ring on lens as it's positioned at awkward place. So I think I must give it a try with FV mode, where I can change all thrée with just two dials. Thanks a lot.

[@Duade]

Good luck, it takes a little getting used to but worth a try to see if it works for you. Cheers, Duade

[@flahertygamecalls]

Well done my friend! Love the reminders about taking multiple photos and merging them in post to get the appearance of a greater depth of field. Thanks for sharing!

[@Duade]

My pleasure Tom, Cheers, Duade

[@dougsmit1]

I thought I understood FV mode but I had missed the feature that pushing the trash button sets auto more easily than scrolling down to the lowest setting. I might like a way also to move the auto setting back from auto to what was last used but this is a very attractive feature. Thank you.

[@jayengee]

If there are certain settings you always uae, you could try using them on one, two or all of the C settings. If you ensure that these remain unchanged when you switch the camera off, it won't matter too much if you change them to suit the conditions on one particular day as you won't lose your basic settings.

[@curtisbme]

@@jayengee I don't think Doug is referring to a preset for all the settings, more a CTRL Z/Undo on the one setting he just changed. Like if you have ISO 800 manually set, hit trash for it to go to Auto, that you could hit trash again and have it go back to ISO 800.

[@falxonPSN]

As far as I know, there is no such shortcut, but I'll dig a little more and see if there's another way to achieve this.

[@susanfirth2279]

Good detailed explanations and examples of exposure. I have the R7 and didn't know about this feature but will give it a try when I next go out shooting birds/wildlife. Looks like a game changer to me. Love the way you asked for a cuddle from the dog at the end.

[@carldaniel3155]

Awesome video again. You have an incredible skill, in simple explanations of detailed procedures. You need to be employed by Canon with this skillset. Really impressive, thank you.

[@henrysteadman963]

A great explanation of not only the FV mode but also of grain / ISO effects and balance, and some lovely shots into the bargain... great work all round :) I've played with FV a little but with this demo I may have another go although I'm so used to AV I'm going to find it really challenging to swap after decades thinking in that way!

[@TaiwanisMoving]

Duade! I could never quite figure out what the fuss was about, but now I think I get it! With this, I can shoot my usual shutter priority and also keep it as wide open as possible. Sometimes I'm in a dark area and it stops the aperture down a little further than I'd like. With this it seems like I can shoot shutter priority and it will keep the aperture as wide (or stopped down) as I want. I think I have that right...? And that photomerge tip was great

[@Duade]

It is my pleasure, each mode has pros and cons and ultimately it is the one you feel most comfortable using. Cheers, Duade

[@mikebrownhill4662]

Thanks for the video. It's a very good walk-through of Fv mode. I ignored Fv for a long time because I thought it was just a gimmick, but after buying an R7 and becoming a bit frustrated by the lack of a third control wheel, I decided to give it a go. That decision changed the way I shoot. I used to use either fully manual, manual plus auto ISO or aperture priority, depending on the scene and what I wanted to achieve. With Fv mode, I found I could do all these things more quickly, especially on the R7. It's probably a bit less useful on cameras with a third wheel (especially when you throw the lens wheel into the mix) but now that I've got used to using Fv, I find it's my mode of choice a lot of the time. I didn't know about using the Trash button to set an exposure parameter to Auto either - so thanks for that!

[@Duade]

My pleasure Mike, glad to hear it's working well for you. Yes the trash button works well. Cheers, Duade 👍

[@thesharpercoder]

Good explanation of exposure at the 1:22 mark. Only shutter and aperture control exposure. ISO isn’t exactly part of the exposure. It is a digital simulation of film speed, ASA.

[@toddbailey5198]

Well you solved a my biggest problem! When I shoot wildlife I always set my shutter speed and aperture and then only adjust my ISO. Living in Northern Ontario, Canada I need to wear gloves 4-5 months of the year especially early mornings and evenings and I find the top rear dial tough to operate, then combine that with using 3 button back-button focus my thumb already has enough to do. For some unknown reason Canon only lets you assign shutter or aperture to the front dial which is so much easier to operate with gloves. Thank you very much for the awesome tip! I'm heading out right now to give it a whirl!!

[@tto07]

I use the Fv mode from day one on my R7 (yes, I read the manual before I received the camera :) ). I love it because I have full flexibility without looking for the right button or dial in different situations. I never use or need Tv, Av, P and M and I would like to use these mode-dial settings as custom modes like C4 to C7 instead, but I am sure that Canon will never change this. What Canon could easily add to make Fv mode perfectly is to give us this small arrow under the exposure-meter, which indicates if the image will be overexposed or underexposed when shutterspeed, aperture and ISO are all set to non-auto values. Just like it does in M-mode.

[@andrewkeir2282]

Me and my R7 are going to try it in the field. I had set the rear ring to aperture and the front to shutter, but changing ISO and exposure compensation was clunky. I usually shoot in Auto ISO anyway. But Fv might allow me to push my skills along further.

[@Duade]

Good luck Andrew, I did find FV made it a little easier on the R7 as I usually set the Aperture, the SS and leave the selection on the Exp Comp to quickly brighten darken if needed. If I need to change the SS I can quickly pop over, change it then back to Exp Comp. Good luck, Cheers, Duade

[@hubbs478]

Great video tutorial again Duade. I currently use an R7 mated with the 100-500 f5.6-7.1 and shot in Auto ISO. I also have the lens Control Ring set to Exposure Compensation. I rarely change the aperture so my adjustements are Shutter Speed and Exposure Compensation which can easily be done with 2 dials, I must admit though that with the Control Ring being very close to the camera body, I fumble to find it sometimes. I will likely give FV a try.

[@Duade]

Thanks Larry, yes, your system works well and I agree I wish the lens ring was on the end not the beginning of the RF100-500. Cheers, Duade

[@mspcabostonadoptioncenter-2294]

Thanks for your comments on the use of the Fv mode on the Canon R7. I'm a new R7 user, and have been enjoying the camera, and in particular, the Fv mode greatly. My typical setup is set shutter speed and aperture and set ISO to auto. I then use ExpComp for slight exposure adjustments when I'm actively shooting. The ExpComp adjustment is on the dial right next to the shutter button, so I can very quickly make any necessary exposure adjustments as I'm shooting. Thanks, Jack G.

[@KurtisPape]

That's a great tip at 20:48! I thought the only reason to get a exposure correct in the field is to not lose highlight detail but there is more to it, for a couple years I wondered why I had some clean images at ISO 3200 then some really noisy images at ISO 2000, it's because the ISO 2000 images were underexposed. I only figured this out a couple months ago 😁

[@AnandaGarden]

That was an eye opener for me, too. I can shoot faces at ISO 12,800 and above with a full-frame sensor and L lens, and if the lighting on the face is correct the photos are very usable. Bigtime discovery for me, as I shoot stage events "in the dark" a lot.

[@KurtisPape]

@@AnandaGarden For me the correctly exposed image at ISO 3200 usually doesn't need noise reduction, but the underexposed image at ISO 2000 may have the noise level of ISO 5000, so will be at the point it needs noise reduction. With my Sony A7R IV I'm happy with the results at ISO 8000 if the exposure is correct and with DXO pureraw can end up looking like quite a clean image.

[@Justentime77]

Thank you for this! As you know, camera's aren't simply camera's anymore...they're computer's, so any bit of helpful info is greatly appreciated and I love this feature/setting!

[@robmackenzie288]

Duade - Thanks so much for the video on FV mode. I have been shooting in manual mode on my R6 body since I bought the camera. But I discovered FV mode just in time before our trip to Alaska next month. Now thanks to your video I'm prepared to use it to get some great shots on the trip. All the best and thanks again

[@barbarachamberlain6918]

Very interesting. I liked both of the female/male wood duck shots, but preffered the one in which they were both in focus. Another great post!

[@Duade]

Thanks Barbara, yes, a lovely species of duck that I love to see and photograph. Cheers, Duade

[@NatureWatcher2022]

A very useful video. Thank you. I use FV mode all the time on my R5. Being old school I'm used to using Aperture Priority when I most of all want to control depth of field and Shutter Priority when I most of all want to control movement blur. I can still do both of those in FV mode just using the two wheels, and more, because I can also control ISO as well. Being able to do all this in the viewfinder without actually switching Modes is particularly useful on the R5 as switching modes isn't that easy on this camera. Having mentioned ISO, I find it easiest to think of ISO as an amplifier, just like the amplifier you have to make your music louder or softer. With music, the electrical signal being amplified is the sound output from your device. With ISO, the thing being amplified is the electrical signal from the sensor. Just as amplifying sound too much creates distorted sound, amplifying the signal from your sensor too much creates distortions in the image, which we call noise. In both cases, amplification not only amplifies what you want; it also amplifies any defects present.

[@RevJohnOrr]

Interesting video. I've played with Fv mode on my R7, but wasn't sure how much it bought me over my usual Manual+AutoISO, so I reverted to that. I have different custom settings on C1,2,3 and flip between them, or make quick changes to aperture or shutter speed using the customised dials directly. I also have the DOF button programmed to flip to one of the other modes, but not stay there. So, for example C1 is my 'normal', fairly static, birds/wildlife setting - 1/1250, f/5.6, Auto ISO (max 6400). Pressing the DOF button jumps me to 1/2000, f/4.5, full area eye tracking, electronic shutter, fast burst, if some creature suddenly appears and catches my eye. Similarly, C3 is my default landscape - 1/200, f/8, Auto ISO, centre focal point, but pressing the customised DOF button immediately jumps me to 1/1000, f/4.5, Auto ISO, all area eye tracking, again in case I've suddenly spotted some wildlife. I guess it ends up being down to muscle memory and maybe taking the time to set up custom buttons to do all that you want.

[@robsnelders1804]

Wonderful valuable learning regarding the impact of the level of light, since our eyes don't tell us the tale. Shadows 1/16th of the level of light in the direct sunsight. Never knew and suspected that. I do now understand soo much better why shaded areas in the picture are so much darker than the sunny parts. Cause: when you would light a scene at 1/16the from good lighting, every shot would become unsuable dark. That's what's happening in the shadows. Tx for making that clear(er). !!!!

[@marklaurendet1861]

Looks like a more flexible "P" mode on other cameras. Never used Canon as their different names for the different modes confuses me a bit. Looks like something I would try, very flexible.

[@twrea]

I started off to say how amazing the R7 an FV mode really are, and had a long memo in short order.. I will say this - This one video right here really helped my cricket photography.. Without the play by play.. I was shooting (Fast-close) off the 7Dmk2 which is down for repair. Enter the R7. First match out, your video having watched night b4 - I already had C1 loaded and set. Thought I would give it a go if my normal settings don't pan out.. The R7 is NOT a 7Dmk2 - And I found myself in a real jam - I flipped over into FV and hit - Wow what a dynamic setting.. I still use my custom settings BUT for fast action FV is a no brainer.

[@richwoodham3296]

Excellent video mate. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge. I will try FV mode on my next walk about. Cheers.

[@Duade]

Good luck Rich, Cheers, Duade

[@jjblackmore4818]

The best explanation of FV mode I have come across. For fish I have used Tv mode with auto ISO and it seemed the same as Fv mode to me. You video explains that Fv mode is about the way the controls interact with, rather than the particular setting.

[@7inrain]

I have one slightly OT question: Isn't the exposure compensation something very similar to the ISO setting? In the end the camera has to decide how many photons on a sensor cell are corresponding to a certain brightness value of the adjacent pixel. Which in my humble opinion is what both the ISO setting and the exposure compensation are controlling, with the only difference that exposure compensation is relative while ISO is an absolute value.

[@suedenim9208]

ISO determines the sensitivity of the sensor, and therefore how bright the image will be for a given amount of exposure. Exposure compensation changes the exposure from what the camera thinks is optimum based on the meter reading, and can do that by changing the aperture or shutter speed, or by changing the ISO. Cameras have come a long way, but they still "think" that the average reflectance of everything is 18% (the neutral gray mentioned in the video). If you take a picture of a white wall and a black wall they'll be underexposed and overexposed by about 2 stops unless you override the camera's metered exposure by changing from auto-exposure or using exposure compensation.

[@7inrain]

@@suedenim9208 Thx for the explanation.

[@mcmillanvideos]

I think Fv is the best mode since 'P' first came out. :) I bought an R8 and found it on my own.. and holy crap, that's the only mode I've used. Even my C1/C2 modes are based on it. I like your skimmer ground pod, I will have to get that... I shoot a lot at the beach/marshes and this looks a lot better/cleaner than shuffling a ground pad. Showing what you did on the photoshoots was very helpful. Not many people explain the iso vs. correct exposure making a difference in the noise. That was really nice to see. Thanks for taking us along and explaining everything. I'd like to one day get the R7 so I can get more reach out of all my lenses for wildlife and also.. get that joystick! :)

[@ursthomann3463]

Hi Duade, love your videos and this one really made me try the Fv mode on my R5. After a few weeks though, I really have to say that I do not share your excitement. Quite honestly, I think Canon could have embedded this functionality in the M mode and thus provide a really useful feature. In M mode I have exposure time control set to the main wheel (index finger), the aperture to the thumb wheel on the back, ISO to the mode selector wheel on the top, and exposure compensation to the lens ring. This gives me direct access to all exposure parameters. Unfortunately, in Fv mode I loose the mode selector top wheel to the switching between exposure, aperture, compensation, and ISO. The only really cool feature of the Fv mode is the quick setting to auto with the delete button. For me the ideal setting would be if even in M mode selection could be expanded with the auto setting (albeit that would be somewhat counter intuitive in M) and the delete button would switch to auto as it does in Fv mode. In short, I think Canon should merge this in principle good idea of the Fv mode with the power and versatility of the M mode. Cheers, Urs

[@JohnGallagher-e4u]

Hi Duade. I just watched your video on fv. I’m new to the mirrorless world. I have an EOS RP. I tried the fv mode but it was just it little much for me. I’ve been using manual with auto iso for bird pictures and still learning but I’m enjoying it. Once I get a handle on it I’ll go back to fv. My next step is to learn the exposure 1/3 stops. But like I said I’m having fun.

[@robertcurrie6460]

Wow, what a great setting that I knew nothing about. I have a R6 MK2 and will go out today to give it a try. Until now, I had the M-fn button programmed to change some settings without going to the menus. Thanks for the great tip!

[@Duade]

My pleasure Robert, it may not work out but it is good to have the option and try these things, sometimes they stick and sometimes they don't. Cheers, Duade

[@richardmcgibbon6441]

I have been using FV since early spring. Birding and air shows. Love it. R5 500 and 70-200.

[@kevins8575]

Thanks! I've been asking for a good demo of FV mode. With my R5, I use auto ISO, so I have instant control using all four wheels/ rings, but I think I might try to teach my fingers to use Fv.

[@Duade]

Good luck Kevin, not for everyone but nice to have the option, Cheers, Duade

[@zeepack123]

Excellent video mate. I have the R5 since the last couple of years and shot only manual so far. Thanks for this, can’t wait to try it out when I go to the jungle in a week!

[@Duade]

Good luck, you may find your existing setup easier with three dials but worth a try. Cheers, Duade 👍

[@johnmitchell2094]

Great content Duade. I've actually used the focus stacking & in camera compostion to focus stack Water Dragons on the R7 with the RF 100 - 500 L IS USM. Usually set around 10-15 frames & bingo! The R7 does the stack, i camera & produces a high resl Jpeg. You also get the RAW files.

[@treeman3663]

Again duad anther very informative video 📹 I now used to control light with shutter first then iso but I see your issue with that. It just gose to show I need to hurry up and win lotto to get a swanky mirror less and what I've got needs to go into the archives

[@19978sm]

I had no idea about this mode before your video, so thanks for this. I used it at my local wildlife reserve this morning and absolutely loved it. Thanks again Duade for yet another informative video.

[@tomastrnkaYT]

Hi Duade, on my R5 and 100-500 I shoot in M, main dial I use for SS, SET ring for exposure. The control ring around MODE I set it to control aperture. That fits the best to my hand. Of course double back button focus for eye and single point. So I guess very common setup. I'm not sure FV would bring me anything I cannot control with my setup already, but I will definitely give it a try. Thanks for the video, love it as usual :) cheers, Tomas ( btw both ducks in focus is my favorite picture, it looks cool, because normally, there is always the second duck blurred :D )

[@Duade]

Thanks Tomas, yes, on the R5/R6 with three dials it is very comfortable and easy to shoot in manual and is how I have mine setup also. FV is a bit easier on the R7 due to two dials and for those who shoot in auto exposure often need easy access to Exp Comp also. Just another option really, it will work for some and not for others. Great to hear you are enjoying your RF100-500. Cheers, Duade

[@rogersmith1643]

Hi Duade, I think a point that makes the size difference between your 500mm and the 105mm a bit clearer is that light reduces at the inverse of distance, so double the distance to subject results in half the reflected light reaching the front lens element, hence a 500mm might be (for arguments sake) 5x the distance for the same composition, so to gather an “F4” amount of light will require significantly larger lens elements, as the amount of light reaching the lens is 1/5 of that for the distance required for the same composition with the 105mm.

[@Duade]

Thanks Roger, very well explained and a very good point. Thanks for that, Cheers, Duade

[@ivanchao8872]

Aperture is a function of focal length over diaphragm diameter. I think the best way to put it is a 50mm lens needs a 25mm opening diameter to get an aperture of f2. 50mm (focal length)/25mm (diaphragm) = f2. For a longer lens to get an equivalent fstop you need a much larger opening. 500mm f4 means you need an opening of 125mm, 5x the diameter of a 50mm f2.

[@TeddyCavachon]

The fall off with distance applies to INCIDENT MEASUREMENT of light sources due to the way the area illuminated by the source increases by the square of the distance causing incident intensity when measured AN INCIDENT METER OF FIXED AREA to change by the inverse of the square of the distance. When an incident meter is moved 2x further from the source only 1/4 as many photons will reach the fixed area of the metering surface and measured exposure will be 2 stops less. That isn’t the true for reflected light or related to how f/numbers are determined in the camera. The f/number is the square root of focal length / physical diameter of the aperture. That is why aperture numbers are 1.4, 2, 4, 5.6, 8 etc. 1.4 = the square root of 2 any an f/1.4 lens regardless of focal length will have a focal length to aperture diameter of 2:1. So to create an f/1.4 lens with 500mm focal length the physical size of the aperture (and lens barrel) would need to be 250mm in diameter! Making the physical diameter of the lens iris and lens barrel smaller for a given focal length will increase the the f/number which explains why the f/11 800mm is much smaller in diameter than a f/4 800mm. Conversely keeping the physical size of the aperture constant and changing the physical focal length as in the RF 100-500 causes the f/number to increase by the square if the focal length/fixed aperture as focal length is increased. This system was developed so regardless of lens focal length the same f/number would transmit the same amount of light through the lens to film irrespective of the focal length of the lens with the numbers engraved on the barrel 1.4, 2, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16… indicating the doubling or cutting in 1/2 pf the transmitted light in the same way shutter speeds increments change the exposure by a factor of 2 to make setting exposure simpler. Why f/1.4? 1.4 is the square root of two.

[@TeddyCavachon]

My thought process when shooting is first to try to find ways to contrast my subject ( head and face for humans) with the background. Outdoors selecting aperture to create contrasting sharpness is the first consideration, usually starting a stop down from wide open for best lens resolution, unless as in the ducks example there is group of subjects requiring more DOF. Like you I’m not above focus bracketing and a bit of cut and paste between frames in post to “get all my ducks in a row” - sharply. With regard to shutter, I try to keep it as low as feasible, knowing that will minimize the need to boost the gain of the signal the camera sensor captured via aperture and shutter and reduce noise. The big advantage of digital vs. film is that playback allows instant analysis of aperture and shutter speed decisions so adjustments can be make, at the expensive of more noise in so cases but in the rock/paper/scissors game of exposure sharpness beats noise. As with the swapping subject tricks with shooting from a tripod it is possible to shoot a longer exposure shot with the objective of reducing the noise in the background then cutting and pasting the subjects into it.

[@suedenim9208]

I know what you mean but to me it's a poor or incomplete explanation. Light isn't reduced by distance (assuming it's passing through clear air) but it spreads out to cover a wider area. I think that's an important distinction, because the correct exposure is exactly the same whether the subject is 10' away, 100' away or 1000' away. Suppose you point a 100mm lens at a wall and it shows a 4' by 6' area that's mostly 18% gray but with a 1'x1' white square in the center. If you double the distance to the wall it will show an area that's 8x12', with the same 1x1' white square in the center. That 1x1' white square will fill only 1/4 as much of the image, but it will put just as much light on each pixel as it did from the first distance. OTOH, if you keep the same distance but change to a 200mm lens it will show an area that's 2' by 3' with the 1x1' white square filling 4 times as much of the image and using 4 times as many pixels. To capture the same light per pixel the area of the aperture has to be 4 times as large and that's exactly what happen when you increase focal length and aperture diameter by the same factor (of 2 in this case). I think it's also useful to understand that the light reaching the front element isn't affected by focal length (other than any accompanying increase in diameter) or distance. In a perfect world the only light reaching the front element would be the light from the area of the image we want to capture, but in reality the front element will see light from a field of view close to, or even exceeding, 180º. How much of that light is captured is affected by focal length (and aperture), and it's what makes it through the back element to the sensor that really matters. The light that's far enough off axis is refracted toward the side of the lens barrel and largely absorbed, but the absorption isn't perfect That's why a lens hood is useful in many situations.

[@speecher1959]

I was using Fv on my R just last weekend with some juvenile bald eagles up my way (North of Seattle.) with good result. I really appreciate your contrasting your RAW file with the post-edit. Thank you!

[@Razurwulf]

Best explanations I've seen. Kudos!

[@jonathanfryer1319]

Beginning to get to know my R6. Question. If I set shutter speed (I'm taking shots of birds, so fast) and aperture and ISO on auto, how does the camera prioritise these two things? And, in Fv mode, again with shutter speed set, if I set the f stop to a number lower than the value of the lens, what is the effect (ISO on auto)? Again, a great video and great pace for us beginners.

[@bobcat65a]

Duade, Thank you for his video and your endorsement of FV mode. I am definitely going to explore the advantages of using FV on my R6. In addition, I would encourage all beginning and advanced photographers to watch your video for explanations of the “basics”. Your skill as an instructor and your in-depth understanding of photography are a gift to your viewers. I’m still working on how high ISO does not create more noise; that has been the “golden rule” in my generation of shooters. However, know you are correct. Best to you in 2023!

[@TimeTraveller969]

Amazing explanation. NOW I going to play with this mode! Thank you for this!!!

[@ralphguppy]

For wildlife I've recently started using Fv mode on my R6 and mostly like the consistent muscle memory of using the back dial to select the adjustment and the top dial for changes to the adjustment. I generally set the shutter speed and find the the camera algorithm does the two things I want; select a more open aperture, for better bokeh and a low ISO to minimize noise. All I do after that is touch up on the exposure control, usually with the control ring on the lens. Wildlife photography, especially birds, requires fast decisions and I'm too much of an amateur to go 100% manual. I'll use the camera features as best as I can. I've also programmed the depth of field button for an "instant" speed adjustments as I've lost too many birds in flight shots ;-(. Thanks for the great clear video!

[@geronimo6787]

Danke!

[@Duade]

Thanks, for the support, I really appreciate it. Its funny my father in law spent a lot of time in Germany when he was young and he and my wife still use Danke a lot :-) Cheers, Duade

[@aylingpaul]

How i like when you explain, You explain very simple and effective ,Thanks you are a true teacher ..

[@colinweir5807]

Thank you. Currntly researching Canon mirrorless cameras for purchasing. First I've heard of this setting and certainly one to consider for sports action. 🐯

[@TheKatWatto]

And you've done it again! Great video. I have my R7 set to Fv but wasn't quite getting my head around it. This video was perfect. (I wonder if there's a program to reduce the noise in my head?). ;p

[@Duade]

Lol, thanks Kat, I wish there was, glad the video was helpful, Cheers, Duade

[@stevepritchard3970]

Excellent presentation Duade, I have not got an R7 (yet) but have looked at its 900 page instruction manual - your explanation makes sense of what otherwise is a bit overwhelming when written in the manual. You are right about the 40D - I don't think mine has ever been above ISO 400. It's still got all the higher ISO's in as new condition!

[@Duade]

Thanks Steve, I have been surprised that the 40D does do higher ISO better than I remember but the NR software certainly helps. Cheers, Duade

[@stevepritchard3970]

@@Duade Duade, I don't suppose you have tried the NR in the Canon DPP software for the R7?

[@geofftaylor9958]

Thanks, good explanation of Fv mode, just upgraded to an R6Mk2 so really looking forward to seeing what I can do with it.

[@colinbourne7706]

Why didn't I know this BEFORE??? What a great way. I have mostly used manual for 30 odd years but this is a great all in system. Good on you Duade!

[@bensaunders616]

On my R5, I have dials set for SS (front), Aperture (back), and exposure comp (rear) and ISO on the lens ring. So for me it seems FV would add a step and be a bit more cumbersome. However, I do see that it would be useful for the R7 and cameras with fewer programmable dials. Excellent video as usual.

[@Duade]

Thanks Ben, exactly right, the R5 is excellent and having that extra dial makes all the difference, I have no idea why they made the R7, R8 etc two dials, would have been very easy to give it the third dial. Cheers, Duade

[@perryelder5045]

Outstanding video, next time I go out I will give it a try. Thanks!!!!

[@georgebowden6748]

G'day Duade, wow what an educational video that was & a lot to take in for a layman like myself but very useful. Also I love the interaction with the 4 legged wildlife.

[@Duade]

Thanks George, yes, a multiple watch video perhaps, thanks for the feedback, yes I enjoyed the cuddles at the end. Cheers, Duade

[@xwhite2020]

FV mode should be the default function for Manual. My lens doesn't have an apature ring so the r7 was a bit tricky to get set up the way I needed to. FV solved the issues I had and makes the camera so easy to operate. Thanks for showing us this Duade.

[@Lsneaky]

Great video, thank you. Just bought my first real camera and this video explained a lot. EOS R6 is the camera I went with.

[@Duade]

Congrats David, have fun with it, Cheers, Duade

[@jackq279]

I’d been using manual, but this Fv mode seems great. For me, I like to use auto ISO, and treat ISO as an indicator of light rather than a “control”. Setting ISO doesn’t get you more light or less noise, so I prefer to just read what it says and adjust other things if it gets too high. Question, though: when you use Exp Comp in this mode, what does the camera change? Thanks, Duade - this was great.

[@Duade]

Hi Jack, good idea, it depends which setting is on auto, if it is on Auto ISO so it will update ISO, if the sensor is ISO invariant you don't really need to touch the exp comp unless it is way too bright. If the SS is auto then that would change with exp comp. Cheers, Duade

[@penultimateexposures]

I use it on my r7 now instead of shutter priority. Basically can fix the aperture and have auto iso. Have the control ring set for exposure compensation. Use it just as shutter priority, but if I find I want to stop down the lens it is easier to do so. I find the ergonomics on the r7 great, everything is in the perfect spot for my hand size.

[@Duade]

Great to hear and thanks for sharing your experience, yes, the R7 does fit well in the hand of many. Cheers, Duade

[@JohnDrummondPhoto]

I'm definitely going to try FV mode on my R5 and R6. Right now I have exposure compensation set to the lens ring, but it's hard to use it without taking my eye off the viewfinder. This looks way easier!

[@EthanTrewhitt]

I started using Fv on my R5 right after I got it and was blown away by how useful it was. It also made me wonder how this never appeared before now, at least since DSLRs had auto-ISO. I really miss it when I go back to my older DSLR after being spoiled by it on the R5. There is one thing to note: safety shift, as it exists for Av and Tv modes, does not seem to activate when you're in Fv and you've configured it with a fixed aperture or shutter speed. So, e.g., if I'm in Fv mode using the 85mm f/1.2 and I've got it set to f/1.2 and ISO 100 outdoors, and it's really bright such that even 1/8000s is overexposed, the camera will not stop down the lens to safety shift for proper exposure like it would with the same settings in Av mode.

[@scottzorro]

very interesting - will give FV a try - great tip about creating a pano when too close as well - thanks for sharing.

[@susancallaghan]

Thank you so much Duade! I have only had the R7 for a month but getting to know it, and the FV mode was something I hadn't got my head around yet! What a great feature! You've explained it so well, and I'm looking forward to using it. Thank you!

[@lordnelson63]

Excellent overview! Got my R6 II a few weeks ago for an upcoming trip and I am definitely going to practice with this mode as I think it will be invaluable.

[@Duade]

Have fun!

[@chrismartin7594]

Lol, I did not know about that mode. Will try it out next time I'm out. Thank you for the explanation.

[@ninelaivz4334]

Thanks, great video! So the ISO just brightens the image on the sensor, including any noise in the image for a particular Av and Tv combination. Is this correct? If so, then the ISO button is not crucial at all. Just increase the exposure in post. I guess the only difference you will see will be caused by the processing engine of the camera and the software of the computer application you use. Have I understood it correctly?

[@Duade]

On fully iso invariant sensors yes however your EVF will be too dark and you would struggle to see the subject and compose the shot. You also would not know what your correct ISO is so you would not really know how much noise to expect. It is far easier to get the ISO right in camera IMO so you can make a better informed choice about SS. Canon sensors have traditionally not been iso invariant and the R7 is not really so correct ISO is important. You can check your camera at photonstophotos.net/index.htm Cheers, Duade 👍