Why Cellulose Insulation is Better than Fiberglass Insulation

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On episode 50 of the "On The Job" web series, Larry Janesky, owner and founder of Dr. Energy Saver, demonstrates how different types of insulation materials perform when exposed to fire.
In Episode 51, he continues to compare insulation materials, by showing the differences in performance of two types of materials commonly used in attic and wall cavity insulation: fiberglass and cellulose.
Fiberglass insulation is frequently used in the United States, but as this video will show, cellulose insulation outperforms fiberglass in the vast majority of applications.
Cellulose insulation is entirely made of recycled paper: old newspapers, phone books, and paper stock. To make that shredded paper suitable as an insulation material, the cellulose is treated with environmentally-friendly chemicals. In its original state, cellulose is very attractive to insects and known to support mold growth. Boric acid, a harmless chemical used for decades in many household applications as an antiseptic and insect repellent, is used to deter pests and prevent mold growth.
Also since paper is highly flammable, cellulose insulation is treated with a fire-retardant material, making it outperform most types of insulation materials, including fiberglass, in terms of fire resistance.
Using a little display built to compare cellulose and fiberglass, Larry shows how quickly and easily heat passes through a layer of fiberglass insulation when compared to a layer of cellulose insulation. Cellulose is denser than fiberglass and that gives the material a better R-value and makes it better at preventing heat transfer.
That kind of performance makes all the difference during hot summer months when you are trying to keep the scorching heat from the attic from getting into your living space, or during cold days when you are trying to keep the heat from the conditioned area from being transferred to the freezing cold attic.
Another added benefit of cellulose demonstrated in this video is the material's ability to muffle sounds from the street and from one room to another, making your home much quieter.
At Dr. Energy Saver, we use cellulose to insulate a variety of spaces. We dense-pack it into wall cavities, cantilevers, floors over the garage, and we blow it over attic floors. Our customers are always satisfied with the results in terms of added comfort and energy savings.
Our dealers work with most types of insulation and we believe that there is no blanket solution to home insulation, since each material has its own application. We also know that when it comes to energy efficiency, insulation is just one part of the puzzle.
When you call your local Dr. Energy Saver dealer for a home energy audit, the experts will evaluate your whole house and offer you the solutions and materials that will always give you the best results for each dollar you invest.
To contact a Dr. Energy Saver dealer in your area, call us or visit our website!

[@CCCC-tq8yo]

The music in the background soooo annoying... 😂 rock on lol

[@bdodson5]

I agree. I had to stop watching it early just to stop that dopey music.

[@takencareofbidness]

Great video, but silly, unnecessary, distracting music in the background. We are adults... we don't need that. It doesn't enhance anything. Just one of those stupid unwritten mandates so many sheeple follow.

[@tlbfarm4473]

Agree. It should complement the narration (if used at all), not attempt to drown it out.

[@charlesgravespainting750]

Why did no one mention that in 1st diagram he showed, the fiberglass thermometer was higher up, which explains why it got hot quicker… (I hate fiberglass tho, for allergy reasons)

[@Jonb01z28]

This shows the exact problem i'm having in my home in FL. 75% of home has blown cellulose which works fairly well but over a faulted living room it has fiberglass. Ceiling dry wall temp in vaulted living room reach anywhere from 78-104 on a 90 degree day, rest of ceiling around house stays pretty constant at 74-75. Looking very soon to had more cellulose around entire attic as well as get rid of fiberglass on vaulted area to help improve comfort in home.

[@oneshotonekill8926]

Everything he speaks of is true. I have used it, installed it, toured factories, made a living with both fiberglass and cellulose, all back in the 90's. This test is a very simple test, but it does show the basics. Cellulose has almost no convective action in it, fiberglass has a ton. C has a very low permeability, FG has a very high permeability. Either one will fail if it gets wet, but FG is worse as it is destroyed and never the same even if it does happen to dry out. C never loses its resistance to flames. Period. Those chemicals are safe for humans and never break down. Nice try though. Because of this, a house with C will take longer to burn down than one with FG. Period. It has been proven both in university testing and real world examples. C is regulated for flame resistance by the feds, FG is not because it doesn't stop flame but actually promotes it. As fire breaks into a FG insulated cavity, it will shoot up the cavity as the FG simply 'melts' away and the trapped air fuels the fire. C blocks and adsorbs sound transmission way better than FG can. C is safe to be around, FG is the next asbestos. Finally, R values are measured by the feds in a sealed cavity. If you use and unfaced batt in the wall, say in your basement and don't cover it with drywall to create a sealed cavity on both sides of the FG, it will not have an R13 value. FG that is open blown in attics never achieves the R value stated, mostly because of convective air circulation. Plus, FG is easy for the installer to 'fluff' when they install it, thereby using less bags to achieve coverage but giving a lower R value as installed according to the label. Always count the bags when they are finished to make sure they used the right amount. C installed in an attic will slowly settle some and create a smooth surface over itself that is slightly crusted, so to speak. The R values are stated at settled density, not installed. Finally, if you get mold on C, then you have much bigger problems than the mold! Stop the water!

[@tlbfarm4473]

Fiber-crap is what I call it. I installed blown in cellulose in my first house in 1982 and every house since then. I have it in my current house and it's very energy efficient and quiet as a mouse.

[@billymacktexasdetective5827]

Did they teach you about paragraphs when you went to school?

[@fvvfvbbbb]

@@billymacktexasdetective5827 This KZbin none of that matters.... LOL You gotta give them credit for all that good info. 👍

[@bloodsoakedwhiskers]

When you stick your hand into fiberglass it already feels hot inside. When you stick your hand inside of cellulose it has a slight cold feeling. Even on a very hot day... It's great stuff....

[@MikeJones-rk1un]

No one mentions you shouldn't touch fiberglass insulation or even be near it without a mask and protective suit. Don't put it in your house.

[@larryjanesky8185]

Hey thanks for the haircut suggestion! I got one! Larry

[@ryan_nicolas]

looking good Larry!

[@CyberChicChick]

+Larry Janesky I wish you HADN'T gotten your hair cut! You looked HOT with the style you had - like Jon Bon Jovi! Just go ahead and grow it on back. RJ, you look like a friggin' dork, NERD!!

[@newstart49]

I had cellulose installed in my old 1946 walls. The house is so quiet, it's spooky. Blew it in the attic and went from a 4 ton ac (125k btu heater) to a 2.5 ton ac and I heat the home with only 38k btu's of heat. I also covered the ducting.

[@ColeB-jy3mh]

newstart49 Hey I read somewhere that the chemicals disappear making the insulation burn after 2-3 years...... would you be able to check if that’s actually true for me please??!??!

[@fartman2269]

@@ColeB-jy3mh No, that is incorrect. That is another urban legend started by fiberglass sales people.

[@rezaghahreman86]

I have a old house in Toronto Canada. I am wondering if I can use cellulose for wall insulation. Doesn't make rot issue during time?

[@fartman2269]

@@rezaghahreman86 Cellulose insulated walls perform quite well compared to fiberglass, you shouldn't have any problems with "rot", as cellulose is hygroscopic, meaning it is capable of absorbing moisture, and able to release that moisture as well. As long as you don't have any water intrusion from the exterior, you should have no issues.

[@HsingSun]

​@@fartman2269 In Florida, you bet hurricane and windstorm could cause leak through the roof.

[@marct4900]

There are many reasons why we prefer cellulose over fiberglass insulation. One is resistance to air flow. Take a look at the the material that your furnace or air handlers filters are made of - it may be fiberglass. Filters are designed to all air movement through them. Blown in cellulose insulation is 2-3 times denser than fiberglass insulation. Studies comparing blown in cellulose insulation vs. fiberglass insulation show that cellulose insulation was 38% tighter and required 26% less energy. A Princeton University study shows, a group of homes with blown in cellulose insulation in the walls had an average of 24.5% reduction of air infiltration compared to fiberglass insulation, with only the walls insulated. A similar study, the Leominster MA Housing Project for the Elderly found that, a building with blown in cellulose insulation compared to a building with R-13 fiberglass batt insulation in the walls and R-38 fiberglass batt insulation in the ceiling, had 40% lower leakage.

[@carlosb3169]

thank you! your channel and this video is still helping a ton of people even 10 years later!

[@victorbunch1442]

Very informative video sir. You have singlehandedly changed my direction of thought of how I should insulate my UNinsulated garage walls AND my open walled 24 X 30 ft shop. Thank you very much😁

[@pollyanna163]

Turn the friggin music off. What the use???

[@kilx81]

My mom is in the middle of renovating her new home. The brick walls were not insulated. Now there about 80 in the wall. I'm amazed that even though the attic is poorly insulated how much warmer it feels inside. And before we could hear people talking outside. Now I can't.

[@TrogdorBurnin8or]

You explain and test that R13 of cellulose is different from R13 of fiberglass, but you never mention why. R-values are objective metrics. You need to explain what's going on here in order to explain why one is better than the other; According to the information you have provided us, your result is nonsensical.

[@Veevslav1]

Your comparison was flawed. That particular lamp you used conveys a portion of its heat via light coming in contact with the surface. Light was penetrating to the thermometer. Which makes sense since fiberglass is supposed to use more air to try and stop temperature spread. We could explain more about it, but. Going forward the test should have had a thin piece of something else that completely stops light penetration. AKA black tar paper or for the most accurate, a piece of sheathing material.

[@TheRealBiggerAl]

Veevslav1 and instead of placing the thermometer at the same depth in each box it should be placed at the same “R value” depth.

[@bmo5082]

Ya seeing this test is bogus. Who on earth exposes their insulation to the sun?

[@davefoc]

I'm sorry, there probably are significant benefits to cellulose insulation but the testing on this video doesn't prove that. *Thermal conductivity test* : Fiber glass insulation is translucent. It will transmit much more radiant heat than opaque insulation. But insulation is installed into dark cavities. Transmission of radiant energy in the visible and near visible spectrum is not an issue. A legitimate test would require testing of the material withing a dark cavity separating hot and cold spaces so that heat flow could be determined accurately. *The sound test is equally bogus* : The question isn't whether sound is strongly attenuated when the source is in a closed box. That is just a widely known fact. The important question is how much more is sound attenuated in a wall with cellulose insulation as opposed to some other insulation. Again determination of that would require a carefully controlled experiment. I've watched enough home improvement shows over the years to come to believe that cellulose performs well as insulation. However, to prove that one insulation is better than some other insulation requires skillful, informed testing and marketing demos designed to promote a particular kind of insulation do not provide useful information as to whether one kind of insulation is better than some other insulation.

[@bigfirepop]

What I don't understand here is that for the same R rating, cellulose requires LESS material. So why are both the same size in height, length, width yet both say R13 .. Note, I am not an expert by any means

[@Warcats15]

I don't understand how they are both R13 if the cellulose is performing better

[@briangc1972]

Exactly correct. If they are rated the same, then their resistance to heat transfer is the same.

[@larrymaloney877]

The cellulose stops air infiltration missed by fiberglass.

[@hotrodhog2170]

@@briangc1972 Cellulose has an R value of 3.8 per inch, fiberglass is 2.7 per inch. Insulation is lab tested at a mean temp of 70 degrees. When the temp is dropped to 0 degrees, fiberglass loses 48% of its rated R value and Cellulose gained 10%.

[@gerrylk9]

I came here for the music and stayed for 1 minute

[@strandedpirate6346]

Calling BS. At 2:18 you can clearly see that the fiberglass is set back from the plexi/glass by about 1/2 inch. Of course its going to get hotter because there is now direct air flow. l33t fails..

[@gsneff]

Two types of insulation should do as well against fire: aircrete, which you mentioned, and rockwool.

[@desperado77760]

does any paper need to be put down first? What about dust coming into the house from cellulose as it ages and settles? Is this just blown in or is something done to make dense-pack? What I'm asking I guess is, if put in the attick is it just blown in or does it need to be compressed some way?

[@jccbsl1]

Wait a minute. Something doesn't make sense. Both insulation samples are labeled R13 which, as I understand it, means they should have the same resistance to transfer of heat.

[@charlescrockett6208]

BECAUSE R VALUE IS 72 DEG F. FIBERGLASS LOSES R AT LOW TEMPS AND HIGH IN A BELL CURVE. IT LAYS DOWN WHEN YOU NEED IT CELLULOSE IS ALMOST FLAT LINE

[@parkeranderson5074]

Charles Crockett WHAT DID YOU SAY???

[@megw2359]

@@parkeranderson5074 I think what he's saying is that when they test materials for the R values, they do it under very controlled conditions like only at 72 degrees. But if you look at performance at higher and lower temperatures than 72 degrees, the R value of fiberglass is actually much lower than advertised. The graph of R value of fiberglass looks like a bell shape: highest at 72 degree but dropping off dramatically at high and low temperatures. Graph for cellulose is nearly flat, meaning that the R value for cellulose stays at the advertised number regardless of how hot or cold the environment.

[@Joewalshe38]

It's worth mentioning that fibreglass insulation compacts over time so your 4" ceiling insulation laid 10 years ago might now be 1/2". It sags in stud partitions meaning there is no insulation at the top of walls where most needed.

[@Flielow]

Is all cellulose insulation the same or are there lesser quality types? Such as Cellulose insulation with out a fire resistance qualities or with out Boric Acid??

[@JM-nh8yp]

Brought to you by the cellulose insulation industry.

[@blackfootchata86]

🤣🤣 I just got fiberglass blow in insulation, after watching this. I'm really rethinking my decision

[@JM-nh8yp]

@@blackfootchata86 I have used fiberglass blow in. I think they all have advantages and disadvantages. In walls, I think cellulose settles more than fiberglass. Blow in fiberglass probably seals out air leaks better than the roll out fiberglass in some cases too. The person that made this video isnt listing pros and cons of each. The video seems really one sided and biased. You might see another video that makes fiberglass sound like the best thing to use.

[@linwoodvleegmailcom]

why is no one talking about VACUUM INSULATED PANELS ??

[@bigears4426]

If you have r4 fibreglass or r4 cellulose its the same and bats are easier to move for work on wiring , and you can lay bats yourself

[@tech29X]

Your video is deceptive; 1) You used much thicker insulation on cellulose side and 2) thermometer on fiberglass is placed slightly higher, closer to the light bulb. It is true that cellulose provides slightly higher R value per inch, but cost per 1R and weight per 1R favors fiberglass insulation. Meaning; you can achieve same insulation value of cellulose by using thicker fiberglass insulation and fiberglass would cost slightly less and weigh far less even if it's applied thicker. On the other hand cellulose reduces noise better. How much load can your ceiling hold???

[@rezaghahreman86]

I have a old house in Toronto Canada. I am wondering if I can use cellulose for wall insulation. Doesn't make rot issue during time? Any comment please?

[@mikemiller9891]

What did you come up with? I can't find Rockwool blow in anywhere...

[@Mr502500]

Excellent video Doc Thanks for the information

[@WilliamMcCormickJr]

Over time, many years, about 20 to 25 years the cellulose insulation becomes flammable. It may be the dust that accumulates over time that causes it. It actually ignites by just touching a drop light with an incandescent bulb against the material. Many people that have homes that are old and have this material in the ceilings between the ceiling joists, actually build protective, constructions to keep this material away from light fixtures. Because it has started to smolder and ember, just being near the fixtures. Sincerely, William McCormick

[@larrymaloney877]

+William McCormick, thirty year old cellulose has been tested and shows no loss of fire retardant. . During the same thirty years installed fiberglass has remain non-fire retardant and not approved as a fire back or fire wall, Cellulose hos both those certificates. In fact , the paper used to cover fiberglass to protect the public catches fire and contributes to the spread of house fires. Your high pressure lies may trick ignorant folks into buying inferior fiberglass but sooner or later, an intelligent buyer gets that home and immediately has us vacuum out all the nasty fiberglass and install fire-retardant, superior cellulose insulation. They are amazed by the difference.

[@larrymaloney877]

+techtalk, sounds like you are gullible.

[@WilliamMcCormickJr]

I took a sample from a house, that experienced AC installers had started several areas of the insulation smoldering with red embers, by only touching the drop light to the insulation. Even after they started one area smoldering and extinguished it they started others. The house filled with smoke to a point it was suffocating. The guys in the attic got sick but were able to find and extinguish all the different areas that were smoldering. I experimented with it, and it was far too unstable to use as an insulation. I am going to see if I have some left. If I do I will make a movie of it being heated. If I was in the forest and I needed to make a fire without matches, I would want this stuff for kindling. I was told by a person that had spent a good portion of his life as a high ranking fire department representative that the insulation had been banned, for very real, very sound reasons. When I saw it again in Home Depot recently I thought the world had gone quite mad, for sure. Sincerely, William McCormick

[@larrymaloney877]

+techtalk , a chemistry major would not confuse boric acid with "things that have a half life". We are not talking about carbon dating 50 million year old dinosaur bones. The information you seek is available from the manufacturer. Antidotally speaking, I've personally removed cellulose from my parents home  which I personally insulated in 1974 and tested it for fire retarding qualities. It was fine.. Again, pay attention please,  Cellulose, not Fiberglass, is rated as a one-hour and a two hour fire wall. Cellulose is also one of the few means to create a fire stop. Again, those test results and certifications are available from each manufacturer who cares to have their particular product tested. Your opinion is between you and he manufacturers. To challenge their test results I suggest you contact one of them.

[@larrymaloney877]

+William McCormick , please direct me to the newspaper article that followed the alleged incident and which attorney is handling the liability lawsuit. I assume you can add credibility to your tale by documenting these obvious follow up results to your story. Or can you?

[@tlbfarm4473]

At 5:00 when talking about burning insulation materials, you don't mention Roc Wool. Why not? What is Rock Wool's burning characteristic's vs. cellulose, fiberglas etc.?

[@colo5220]

Oh yeah! Cellulose is better? Try to remove them. It’s pain to try to remove them.

[@georgeghali304]

I have a questions which one is better blown cellulose or blown fiberglass? There are 2 options at home depot fibergreen cellulose or Owen Corning Attic CAT fiberglass . Which one would be better for Dallas area?

[@BrandonTran]

Wow incredible! I had this installed in my first house, walls and ceiling. I'm in my 3rd house now and it has fiberglass. I'm sad about that...

[@1951walton]

Sadness is a very poor inulator!

[@Soprano0913]

Great video what about comparison of cellulose vs rockwool

[@thcint]

You should test Hemp insulation batts and Hempcrete. You will see it outperforms everything you've shown by miles. Fireproof, waterproof, antimicrobial, antibacterial, R values, everything. Put it to the test, you will be blown away!!

[@carrieb417]

where does one buy hemp insulation?

[@thcint]

Currently, France is the best place.

[@thcint]

Here is a great way to learn all about building with Hemp www.thcint.com/thcint-blog/the-evolution-of-hempcrete-and-hemp-construction

[@bmo5082]

Man I’m glad I can get this material from France. Free shipping to USA?

[@pipersson9258]

House for sale, waste paper insulation in the Attic, Sorry about that, you can always pay $2000 to have it taken out, we thought it was fiberglass, they sneaked it into the house, whilst we were wondering were the rolls were but left it too them, they did claim to be experts, now the attics out-of-bounds, one wrong step up there and you walk on the bedroom ceiling, and go crashing though it, and the electiricans moan they cannot find the wiring and want more money, danger money, trip and hazard money, and danger to health money, we would have been safer with asbestos, with sawdust, anything but that crap..

[@worldhello3946]

My cellulose in attic generates a tons of dust and make my room dusty. How do you pretend dust goes outside then go to your room?

[@morehp1]

You most likely have poor hvac ductwork putting the house in negative pressure

[@HsingSun]

Good question.

[@pedrompneves]

Dear Larry Janesky, Thank you for all the information about fiber cellulose. I am from Portugal, and I will apply the cellulose insulation. The company that is going to apply it recommends 15cm (about 6 inches) high in the attick floor (cement attick). Do you think that's enough to do a good performance in Portuguese weather (between 5 and 35 degrees celcius)? Looking foward to your opinion. Thank you.

[@bobsilvern4909]

The temperature test is bogus! It is deceptively designed to measure the materials' ability to block infrared and visible radiation from the bulb rather than thermal conductivity which is an entirely different property. A more fair test would require placing an opaque surface, e.g. a piece of drywall, on top of the insulation to block the radiation and actually measure the conduction which is all we are concerned with in any real-world setting. Another tip-off: Both materials are ambiguously labelled R-13. R value has a meaning only when specified for a product with a defined thickness. Assuming the meaning of the labels was that each side, in the tested thickness, provides an insulation value of R-13, then both must conduct the same amount of heat by definition. They cannot differ in any fair test of thermal conduction. I was planning to insulate my home with cellulose, but after seeing this slimy act of deception I will reconsider that decision.

[@johnsmith9782]

Bob Silvern Yes, this is classic hoodwinking here with that test, from the obviously observed issues to a host of other unseen factors. It fools some folk all the time, and these tests are designed by manufacturers and paid promoters, and you would have to be pretty dull not to see through it. We live in a 'anything for a buck' culture.

[@stephenvonwaldner9374]

Ki I

[@ralphinator2]

+Bob Silvern After they just showed you how well it works, you decide not to use it? No, thermal conduction is not all you need to think about in the real world. Convection air current travels right through fiberglass, and the siding of the house radiates heat just like that lightbulb does. Unless you are planning to wrap your house in aluminum foil, you also need to block radiation heat transfer.

[@bobsilvern4909]

ralphinator2 The convective properties for cellulose compared to fiberglass may or may not be better. I do not know and the experiment performed in the video does not attempt to measure this. People who have large openings in their walls through which there is notable airflow should probably just caulk those cracks rather than rely on in-wall insulation to block the air flow. As for your claim that "the siding of the house radiates heat just like that light bulb does", you are mistaken. The total radiated energy of an object is proportional to its absolute temperature raised to the fourth power. The incandescent light bulb temperature is about 3000K, compared to a warm wall at let's say 130F or 328K. The radiation from the wall compared to the bulb is therefore in the order of (328K/3000K)^4, or about 0.014%. This is why the bulb radiates blinding light and scalding heat, and the wall does not. To summarize, in real world applications, the conduction of an in-wall insulation material is by far the most important property compared to radiation or convection. The "experiment" in the video is grotesquely flawed in that while it claims to measure the conduction of the material, by directly irradiating the material with an incandescent light bulb (a 3000K visible and infra-red emitter), it is primarily measuring the material's ability to block transmission of that radiation rather than its conductive properties. Had they actually measured the conductive properties, they would have found them to be identical because both were specified as R-13. I don't have a strong preference for one type of insulation over the other, but I would certainly avoid doing business with Dr. Energy Saver after seeing how they attempt to deceive potential customers with a clearly bogus demonstration.

[@ralphinator2]

Bob Silvern Cellulose is very good at stopping convection while wind blows right through fiberglass. It can be used for air filters. Convection transfers heat from the outer wall to the inner wall. You are right that there is an exponential difference in radiation, but the square footage of a wall goes a long way to making it matter. If you stand near a stone or brick wall at night, you can feel the radiation coming off it.

[@arnelarson2849]

In my opinion, you need to reconstruct the heat demonstration to control for the radiant heat from the lamp directly onto the top of the plexiglas. That is transferring some of the heat that the cellulose side is not. 1) Fill the fiberglas side to the top so it is equal to the cellulose side. 2) Place some foil on the top of both sides to reflect the heat from transferring through the plexiglas. 3) Place the thermometers on the bottom of each chamber to directly measure the heat transmitted THROUGH the insulation material and not the sides of the containers. Control for these factors, and your demonstration would be more accurate and more believable.

[@Deploracle]

It makes no sense unless the fiberglass is in it's installed state, not compressed down like the cellulose.

[@charlesgravespainting750]

Also in that diagram, the fiberglass thermometer was much higher up (almost a full centimeter) more than the cellulose thermometer… so DUH it’ll get hotter!

[@CantankerousOB]

The problem is he doesn't show an R value in those tests contraptions. If you see actual blown insulation it's very light and fluffy whereas his test area it's extremely compacted. The R-value of blown insulation changes dramatically over time as the insulation settles down. The biggest benefit to blown insulation is it will fill every nook and cranny with little or no gaps between. However you'll need a much thicker layer of blown insulation to accomplish what fiberglass will. Both work extremely well, and cellulose is considerably cheaper, but to say one is better than the other is Up For Debate.

[@realtyrocks1969]

Yes he does. It said on the label R13

[@CantankerousOB]

@@realtyrocks1969 no shit it says R13. R13 is 4" thick, does it look like his thermometer is 4" from the surface where the light hits it?

[@lindaraidl663]

looks like theres just a tad less fibergass from here. That could account for the 1 degree diff and the temp sensors should be at the bottom and not near the top

[@yourlocalscribe948]

5:35 looks like 20 degrees not 1 4

[@starleyshelton2245]

if both have the same r value then both should have the same heat resistance. so... there should be no difference. However it does take more in inches for batt to match blown.

[@markchidester6239]

So what you are saying is that the R value is actually higher per inch than fiberglass?

[@jmar8507]

What happens if it gets wet, like from a roof leak?

[@ansis9970]

In your test, isn't light bulb acting as radiant heat source? Hence making your test more accurate representation of summer testing (to keep away Sun's heat from living space) opposed to winter testing (to keep heat trapped inside living spaces)? As an example, I am quite sure that aluminium foil would perform very well in your light bulb test because it would reflect away radiant heat. But yet people rarely (if ever) use aluminum foil alone to insulate houses for winter conditions, because foils are not not that efficient to limit heat loss due to convection. It could be that with convection heat test you will still reach the same conclusion that fiberglass is better than cellulose. However, I think it is not correct to extrapolate your test for winter conditions.

[@cameratest]

I don't understand - the R-value is a measure of how well a material insulates. Different materials may require different thicknesses or costs to achieve R13 but as long as both are R13, they should insulate equally well by definition. Isn’t this like saying a ton of bricks is heavier than a ton of feathers?

[@kennethflorek8532]

Materials with high R values get that high R by trapping tiny air spaces, the more there are and the tinier they are, the better. The controlled conditions under which R value is measured use a low difference in temperature of the two sides, keeping air circulation inside the material low. With high temperature differences, air begins to circulate through the glass fibers more and the measured R drops, much less so with packed cellulose fibers.

[@larrymaloney877]

cameratest. your confusion is understandable. R-value does not measure how well the insulation stops air infiltration. An air infiltration test shows that. Cellulose is far superior. Add that to the superior R-value and it's an easy choice.

[@carlsaberhagen628]

You're correct: "R value" is "R value," regardless of the material. However, the the "R Value" isn't the only factor (is the material properly installed, are joists exposed, etc.), unfortunately--it's just the best, shortest way the industry can market their product.

[@jerrysmith7166]

cameratest All of that shit is complete garbage and less you use foam insulation highly recommended

[@MrVocalBaby]

the problem with foam is that it goes out through the plugs

[@THOMASHOERIG]

What a scammer! You said cellouse has a higher R value compared to fiberglass. If so why is there more cellouse compared to fiberglass in display? Put temp gauge at the bottom to get correct reading.

[@waynemansur2162]

As long as the thermometer is in the same location, the test is valid. Larry did a good job of demonstrating the concept.

[@TheRealBiggerAl]

Wrong, put the thermometer at the same R value equivalent depth then test

[@rljohn1990]

well lets see here is it really green? the average home if it uses cellulose. Will take out of the recycle loop the equivalent of 80 square acres of trees. WOW that's green. Second this test is bogus! use a heat source that produces 150 deg heat. Also use High density batts. Now the fire show that is so cool! Try doing it when it is not compressed! Have it loose aerated like it would be in the attic. and lets see him do that again. I bet he would not do it! does this stuff insulate? Yes it this video correct and truthful? No.

[@dabcorn]

...the energy used to manufacture fiberglass is GREATER than all the energy it saves in a 30 year period. Wish I had the 1980's study reference, sorry. Also, guess what other silica "fiber" is listed as toxic/ carcinogenic - ASBESTOS, the SAME crystalline structure as fiberglass. A 5 story waterfront home that I insulated (in Horseshoe Bay, TX - google earth waterfront homes there) had it's roof burn DOWN TO the CELLULOSE in the attic - the row of townhomes next to it burnt to the ground in 20 minutes EVEN with 2 HOUR firewalls AND fiberglass insulation. The homeowner was happy that he did not lose his home. He had me insulate his new attic. My 35 years experience with cellulose has been 100% positive, and in my experience EVERY application has proved SUPERIOR for the homeowner, in comfort, home maintenance, rodent & insect intrusion, cost of utilities, sound attenuation,etc... fiberglass should not be an insulation product. HOW can it be both resistant to heat AND be COOKWARE???

[@imzjustplayin]

Use a heat source that produces 150 degree heat? Why would you use a heat source that produces LESS heat? A light bulb can get quite hot, much hotter than 150 degrees! As for the high density batts, that wouldn't be a true comparison since a high density batt is rated at R15 not R13 like the so called fiberglass batts are.

[@scottbickett6991]

where do you get your information? "80 acres of trees" you DO realize that cellulose is from NEWSPAPERS? not straight from the forest?? egads ,,BE INFORMED!

[@Heathh49008]

You have only shown that the cellulose is opaque. Cellulose is pushed because it's cheap. It has a better mark-up, that's why they push it so hard even though it compresses so badly, is so attractive to vermin, and has so many moisture issues.

[@dabcorn]

Fiberglass is the same crystalline structure as ASBESTOS. I put cellulose in only 150sqft more of my home as the neighbor has in his exact same 1200sqft housing project home built to federal/ state/ building codes, my electric bill is consistently $100 LESS than any of my neighbors that have fiberglass where I have cellulose.

[@Heathh49008]

dabcorn By that logic so is a diamond ring. Or salt. CRYSTALLINE JUST LIKE ASBESTOS!!!! What you have in your home doesn't matter. Do the two homes have identical floorplans/windows/structure/color, sunlight exposure, HVAC systems AND share a common thermostat? If not, then what you pay has nothing to do with your neighbor. Are you a moron? Wait... Rhetorical question.

[@dabcorn]

salt dissolves in the body and is processed by it. BARIUM is a toxic metal that can be absorbed into the body and sits unprocessed and unexpelled UNLESS it is in particular compounds, then it is not absorbed and is stable and safe and can be expelled. I am not aware of any diamond fiber products. Asbestos & similar glass, fibers ARE not dissolved nor processed by the body. The fibers accumulate, and cause abnormal cell growth in damaged areas (cancer). Mesothelioma and other lung diseases are direct results of exposure to crystalline mineral fibers such as asbestos... But any dust/ fiber, etc, even unprocessed plant fiber is not good to inhale over a long period.

[@Heathh49008]

dabcorn Barium also has fuck-all to do with fiberglass, cellulose or this conversation. As for diamond fiber products, graphite, graphene, and carbon nanotubes are all forms of carbon that could be considered fiberous and closely related to diamond. But carbon/diamond dust (abrasive process dust, mining, etc) would be a greater health threat. See also silicosis. You say "processed by the body"... actually they are removed from the lungs slowly by ciliary processes. This is often too slow, or stunted by smoking, leading to dangerous levels and possible issues such as mesothelioma. But again, you have no evidence that fiberglass is any danger in the form of insulation. Not the old stuff, or the newer "Attic cat" type that is so much like cotton candy that it doesn't even itch or produce dust during installation. You are a moron.

[@dabcorn]

Heathh49008 Yes, I may be a moron. I worked in insulation for years. However, cellulose proved to be a fine product for both installers and homeowners. It is magnitudes less energy consuming to produce. I can tell you feel strongly that fiberglass is a worthwhile insulation product. That has just not been my personal experience with it. I have though, used it for aircraft cowling. As a pool filter sand tank it has stood up very well, as have the garage doors. Anyway...we all need to follow the OSHA dust mask regulations.

[@Sciron]

This guy should be wearing a mask that smoke looks sketch

[@chrisdixonstudios]

It also very clearly shows much less Fiberglass insulation over top of thermometer less dense than cellulose (light penetration). You forgot to mention that fiberglass Far outlasts cellulose like 100 years vs 50. It is very impressive however how well cellulose insulates and is fire retardant, cool! Cellulose also fluffs back better than fiberglass if compressed. Probably most important is the cost of cellulose is only about 30% cost of fiberglass, so boom you win!

[@callingcar51]

This stuff should be illegal. There are more videos on vacuuming this crap out than putting it in. I’m pulling all of it out in my house. Several things: it degrades over time. All insulation does but batts are much easier to pull out and replace. You are looking at $1000s of dollars just to remove. The dust from this stuff is so fiine, that any disturbance….. pressure changes in your attic (wind storms, hvac cycling) will allow the ultra fine dust to seep into your ductwork and thus finds its way into your lungs. Do not put this stuff in a place you plan to live in.

[@africancichlids3011]

do they make hemp insulation yet i know they make hempcrete

[@dennisgarber]

Then, people would be burning their own houses down, on purpose, just for a few inhales, when they couldn't afford their weed . Imagine how long the installers would drag out the insulation process, and all the smoke they would make!

[@AaronCook83]

This is exactly the kind of moronic reply that is keeping hemp from being widely used.

[@maneatinghobo113]

@@dennisgarber shame on you

[@MrEvangall]

Is no one going to comment on the blown in cellulose is dense packed vs the regular fiberglass batts?

[@JM-nh8yp]

Yes, I'd like to see a pound for pound comparison with the same density and seal being formed around it. Maybe a comparison with blown in fiberglass?

[@brockbaker3able]

That light test is completely flawed and good for nothing but show. It’s not showing thermal heat transfer at all but rather infrared heat from a light source. Fiberglass let’s more light shine through which you never have in a attic. Unless of course you don’t have a roof😂 try that same test with mineral wool and see what you get. Rockwool is a much better insulation both. Water resistant, doesn’t compress over time, can’t catch fire and is actually rated as a fire-block. Excellent sound deadening. In reality and over time, you cannot beat mineral wool. Unless you’re a lazy installer that wants to get the job done fast. Well, blown is better for that. You want real lifetime insulation value, air seal and mineral wool. My last two energy audits prove that point.

[@lemontea2065]

1. Cellulose side is 20% thicker 2. It's packed densely Conclusion - you were cheating! 😄

[@vegafrenchies6984]

The fiberglass bay should be as full as the cellulose. Seems to be 1/2" to 1" short from the level of cellulose. You can peel some more pink fiberglass and make it balanced.

[@frederickkwek3772]

The Fiber is not compacted compared to the cellular

[@DRAGONMONKEY0310]

I hate fiberglass but to be fair it doesn't look like they added enough versus the extra pack cellulose..... is it really better then.? Looks more like really bad advertising..

[@scottsmith4145]

Interesting that in your burn test you didn't test mineral wool.... Why?

[@timkr66]

Mineral wool can resister fire better than cellulose from what I've seen.

[@pipersson9258]

*Fiber glass insulation is a proven performer amongst insulation products*. It provides exceptional thermal performance, moisture and mold resistance and fire protection. The two named builders below noted that fiber glass is their top choice for insulating homes. “As a builder, we are selling an energy system. And fiber glass is the answer for energy efficiency,” said Bill Decker Sr. Wayne Homes is an award-winning regional builder with a presence in Ohio, Pennsylvania, Indiana, Michigan and West Virginia - producing between 500-1200homes per year. Decker Homes builds high-end custom homes across southeast Michigan and northwest Ohio. He says Decker uses fiber glass for all it's homes.

[@jimdavidson5208]

+J.D.Roche Wrong, 1/8" of closed cell foam will outperform 2 feet of fiber glass. Fiber glass is NOT an air barrier OR moisture barrier what so ever. So how can it stop energy transfer? Answer it doesn't. The best type of insulation is closed cell foam with fire retardant.

[@pipersson9258]

+jim davidson FOAM INSULATION IS A CONFIDENCE TRICK. I met a clent who had paid a fortune for it, weeks later he scraped it with his fore-finger nail and it crumbled into little pieces like polystyrene does, naturally he rung to complain and got this message "the number you called is no longer recognised" please check and try again. Water settles into SPRAY foam, so in winter it expands and drops away from the roof, it's made with a water--mix. It get worse they charge $3000 for $300 foam and labour. Google Spray Foam Scams on Google. (And How can a MICRO-THIN 3mm layer of flimsy foam beat 24 inches of Glass Fiberglass-this alone tells me you're a scammer).

[@pipersson9258]

+Alex Blake // When used as rigid board insulation its chemistry and manufacture is similar to foam, to foamed polyurethane. As the board stiffness increases so does it's brittleness increase making handling it unstable on building sites, where rough treatment and handling is the norm. Firms who make and sell it have tons of damaged board seconds for this reason.

[@robertmelton6702]

Cellulose settles. Bottom line!

[@africancichlids3011]

is a box spray insulation better than using a r 19 6 inch thickness ,, i need to redo my attic , when u use the spray do u still , need to add a vapour barrier , im assuming the plastic is better than the paper . , can u spray the insulation foam in a box . onto the barrier have like 6 inch thickenss then just add some r 19 insaltion fibre over the top of that or better to add the cellulose on topp of the box foam

[@jonathanbailey2021]

I have been a building contractor for 40 years. I won't use cellulose because it easily absorbs and holds moisture. There is always some water that can penetrate walls during extreme weather events. The wet cellulose will cause mold and wood decay which can go undetected until there is significant damage. I stay with rock wool and closed cell foam for this reason.

[@Victor-th8tb]

Hello. What's attic insulation do you recommend for Orlando, Florida?

[@zechariahhambone3841]

Rockwool just raised the price of the R15 batts from$58 to $79. And very difficult to find this stuff in the needed quantities.

[@billyhenley1616]

fiber glass will be there a 100 years cellulose would be dust ive install both

[@domingue4god]

Very poor scientific experiment: the fiberglass box has a lot less insulation in it!!!

[@marctannenbaum672]

Fiberglass batt insulation is tested and rated in laboratory settings. The batts are fully fluffed and in enclosed spaces (all four sides, top and bottom) with little or no air flow. The environment that the batts are tested under does not reflect how they are installed in your home. if on the attic floor, they are not fully enclosed and subject to getting dirty from "wind washing" - air movements through your ventilated attic. This dramatically reduces the effective R value of fiberglass

[@damyonfinch8521]

Why arent the thermo sensors at the bottom. Not the middle?

[@blackfootchata86]

I wondered the same

[@beatch42]

This experiments looks dumb, because the block on the left has more r value than the right

[@VishalRaoOnYouTube]

My house was built in 2022 in central Texas and the insulation doesn't look like either you've shown. It looks pure white like cotton and it is very light and fluffy. Any idea what it is?

[@David_krappenshitz]

Maybe blown in fiberglass

[@functionalvanconversion4284]

Great information. If you search life span cellulose has the shortest lifespan of all insulations. People also describe it become dust overtime. I try to reblow fiberglass rather than throwing it away if it doesn't have rat poo or other contaminants.

[@Lafue108]

Have you ever smelled cellulose insulation? it reeks. I think it's only a matter of time before people realize that putting a large quantity of newspaper ink the home (cellulose insulation) causes off gassing issues, not to mention all of the chemicals they have to add to make it mold and fire retardant. Walking through a cellulose attic is no treat, it is very dusty and will make you hack worse than fiberglass unless you have a respirator. Also, I have seen dozens of homes with collapsed ceilings due to the weight of cellulose. IMHO, it is not worth it and think this video is one sided.

[@deanbenton5098]

Any chance you can show pics of ONE of the DOZENS of homes with collapsed ceilings?

[@Lafue108]

Sure, I'm not lying. dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5246510/1.JPG IMHO, the thickness and fastening method of the sheetrock ceilings must be evaluated before blowing in cellulose. Smooth shank nails spaced at 12" oc or greater with a sloppy bead of adhesive that eventually gets brittle may hang on for a few years, but roll the dice.

[@sarahann530]

La Me The link does not work ,fuckwad

[@americanidle872]

Just googled a bit of research. Cellulose is mold prone though.

[@Strychn1n3]

So you did "a bit of research" yet didn't watch the entire video where we explains that the cellulose is treated for mold prevention and shows the mold farm?

[@allensanders4204]

I work on lots of old repo homes with both types of attic insulation. Matter of fact I was cutting moldy sheetrock out of a ceiling in a house yesterday. That house had pink Corning insulation batts layed between the ceiling trusses. Everywhere I cut out a 2 or 3 foot by 2 foot section of sheetrock that had mold in the paper top and bottom the fiberglass batt also had mold growing on the paper side touching the sheetrock. I rarely see moldy cellulose. A side note , I see much greater rodent damage in fiberglass batts than cellulose. Mice tunnel through fiberglass insulation like coal miners. If you have mice in your attic you will likely see evidence of snakes. Usually black snakes ( good climbers)which are not dangerous and they are good mouse catchers but who wants a 5 ft snake in their attic. Another observation is cellulose traps dust in the upper layers but fiberglass allows the dust to settle further down onto the top of the ceiling. If you live in rural areas with dirt/gravel roads the dust collected in your insulated attic will become an issue over time .

[@timmsmiithgm557]

Videos like this are gimmicks. They demonstrate radiant heating - something that 99.9999999999999999999% of buildings don't experience. Unless you have a see-through roof, the type of heat transfer in your attic is conductive. Another trick this video uses - it's comparing them at the same depth: fiberglass needs to be deeper than cellulose for the same R-factor. Even though fiberglass needs to be deeper, it's still less expensive. It also provides superior protection against molds and mildew.

[@rickjames6948]

Why don't you guys talk about the second worst insulation called cellulose? It settles over time. I had 10 plus inches blown in with the height cards left behind showing how much was blown in. Recently installed security cams. All that new cellulose sank to the rafter tops were you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats stay put over time.

[@Cursivealpha]

This channel is really all about destroying pennies

[@kathleenscherban7433]

What kind of fire retardant chemical is used. This may be as dangerous as spray foam. Please advise.

[@larrymaloney877]

+Kathleen Scherban , boric acid. It's also used for eye medication.

[@dw6015]

Problem with the model is there isnt that much radiant heat concentrated on insulation in an attic so it's not an accurate representation of the conditions in an attic unless the homeowner installed heat lamps up there.

[@Casmige]

It’s just a simple test ....oh my God these scientists in the comment section just wanna over complicate and find fault with everything.....

[@findingnimo4707]

Super vdo....vry helpful...pls tell me if i cn make cellulose foam at my home?can u tell necessary ingredients n process..plz hlp... Im from india

[@joemonroe9456]

mix detergent with packing peanuts.

[@forzaitaly1]

He liked your DIY recipe so much he mixes it with his salad too!!!

[@JohnAranita]

Mr. Janesky has proper hair -- messy and middle-parted.

[@pdknopf]

Larry, any recommendations of installers in southern ca?

[@jacobdominguez5800]

Attic heroes

[@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555]

So thermal transfer isn't a problem with dense packed cellulose? By thermal transfer I mean the same sense as when thinking of a 2x??? framing how it's R-Value is much lower.

[@giuseppepippoizzo6506]

Excellent video explaining , accurate information. Great information

[@rljohn1990]

Also R Value is R-Value it is resistance to heat. whether it is cellulose or fiberglass. if its R 21 cellulose then it is r 21 fiberglass. Sorry your vid is staged and a fraud.

[@imzjustplayin]

It's not necessarily fraud. The test conditions that insulation is tested in are very specific and can be tested by the manufacturer themselves, allowing them to give their products better ratings than actual real world results. The way products are tested aren't verified and for the most part, fiberglass is pure shit.

[@kevinsmith3567]

imzjustplayin 1

[@kevinsmith3567]

imzjustplayin and I

[@ffuller83]

Mr. Larry can you refer me to such a superb service as yours in Cottondale, ALABAMA?

[@stevenbourbonnais4030]

Down fall I have it in my attic and it settled under rafters and left a gap 1/4 inch and it's creating condensation and ice then when it gets hot outside it melts and creates wet newspaper

[@plips71755]

It all gets wet and sloppy if it gets wet.

[@johnscott2330]

I'm wanting to insulate an old schoolhouse building built in 1872. It is located in a remote wooded area. There is also a lot of moisture in the area given the structure is located on a watershed and on the edge of a creek. Does cellulose settle more than fiberglass, therefore, over time, not providing the R-value it did when first installed? Also, I battle mice. I will have to blow it into existing walls through holes. Is one insulation product better than another in being distasteful to mice? Or do mice just love it all? Thx!

[@markpitcher2357]

Is compaction a problem with blown in cellulose or fibre glass, causing lose of performance in R value.

[@oneshotonekill8926]

One other comment too. C has no requirement to be kept away from light fixtures or heat sources any more than FG! That is completely bogus. In my neck of the woods, they are treated the same as to the installation next to fixtures, chimneys, recessed can lights, flues, etc. Houses here are not burning down left and right! I have been in many 1950's houses with C and FG, never have I seen a problem with either one next to any of the aforementioned items. However the one thing I always saw, dirty FG around air leakage points! The FG acts like an air filter for all the air coming by and through the leakage site. RC, lights, pipes, soffits, open top wall assemblies, etc.

[@bluegorillacookies]

Great video....What about rodents nesting? Does the boric acid repel them? Thanks

[@mrneanderthal2891]

Wood is one of the best insulators in the worl hence your home is made of it. Glass we’ll ever heard of dual Paine window nitrogen filled fiber glass glass is to conducive

[@histubeness]

When you did the attic insulation re-do, why didn't you remove the old, dirty fiberglass batting, and just fill with cellulose? Why leave the higher fire danger batting there, underneath?

[@TrendyStone]

Fiberglass + cellulose is more efficient than JUST cellulose.

[@MikeJones-rk1un]

Handling fiberglass insulation in any way is something to be avoided.

[@philwheeler4150]

Fiberglass needs the height to work. So to get the same R-value you mislead comparing the 2 types.Why promote a product that will shrink overtime and it breaks down to dust. Why mislead people? you are better than that Larry?

[@ryandecarlo]

But is it good for IMPACT NOISE?

[@babybear4524]

I dont understand why so many people choose to put in fiberglass since it heats up so fast. Why is it a big seller at Home Depot and offered by installers? For houses in the southwest would additional insulation be the first line of defense to combat hot summers or/and must you combine that with a whole house fan or attic fans? Thanks. where are you located?

[@bmo5082]

This test is kind of bogus. A black plastic bag would perform better than a triple pane window on his temperature test because he is factoring in radiant heat. When have you ever seen insulation exposed to the sun in its final application? You don’t, it’s always tucked in a wall or ceiling.

[@MrDahkilla]

Do you sell them also as structural insulated panels ???

[@DerrickFishes]

How do they have the same r value when cellulose is that much better at insulating?