Drill chuck grinding

[@SteveSummers]

Thanks for the video Dale, I enjoyed it. Love all your videos

[@MetrologyEngineer]

This is one of the most over the top video I’ve seen in a while. Nice job.

[@intel2you]

i fixed my chuck by mounting a 1/8" diamond coated rotozip tile bit in the mill collect and the super chuck in the mill vice in a collect block and the bit centered at full cut depth then slowly tightened the super chuck by hand. worked great and ended up with .0009 run out. thanks for sharing

[@EcoMouseChannel]

I always learn about new things I need to buy for my lathe from your channel. Now I need a tool post indicator!

[@dougdixson]

Hi Dale I'm between beer 8 and 9 so take this for what its worth... Paint a new drill shank with some non-drying ink and then clamp it in the chuck you just ground. That will tell you more about the effects of taper while grinding. Also, you didn't seem to mention about 'walking the key'. Where you tighten the chuck at every location of the chuck perimeter. This helps to distribute the force on the jaws according to the old fart that that taught this old fart about it a hundred years ago

[@fredbloggs4829]

Doug, from one old fart to another, great advice. Hope you enjoyed the beers.

[@jimcroyle7249]

Keep up the good work

[@ScottandTera]

Cool idea, never thought of that

[@samueltaylor4989]

After 5 years of looking before you found the press you were looking for, you BETTER make a video on it!!

[@ActiveAtom]

Nice to see you share something to help others. Thank you. Lance & Patrick.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Dale, very informative video and a very interesting topic, thank you Dale, please keep the videos coming, ATB Matty

[@Justone177]

Definitely wanna see the press build!

[@kevinschlipalius5359]

Hi Kevin from Aus very interesting at what you done I have done this a lot of times in my time as machineical engeer 55 years if you grind in a lath you need to cover up the bed from grinding dust with a bit of oil the quicker to wear out bed I wood put it in the tool and cutter grinder using the arber on drill chuck and taper in the grinder no setting up . keep up all the good work Kevin.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great video

[@donaldshulman6771]

Hey Dale - That was cool. Now you can clean all of your chucks. Yes - Show us the press restoration - thanks

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I will be doing the press very soon :-)

[@routercnc9517]

I was worried when you pressed on the jaws, but the explanation you gave from Jacobs made sense. Even better when you suggested using a tube, like it. I wonder as another method if the chuck could grip onto a small disc right at the back of the jaws, allowing the chuck to be gently tightened and then grind the free section. When done remove the disc and over grind that rear section using your free spin method to give clearance. Of course a small part of the jaw is no longer gripping the drill bit.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I thought of that too, but I think the force is not equal enough, more pressure on the back will kink the front tips of the jaws inward making for a tapered grind.

[@toolbox-gua]

Yet another great video. Thank you.

[@davidmoore5021]

Thanks for sharing

[@larryshaw796]

I really like the idea of mountin the grinder on the tool post,it does seem to give you better control, that's my problem you keep giving me ideas. Thanks

[@tykellerman6384]

Necessity is the mother of invention great videos Dale I’ve been a Carpenter all my life now retired want to be a metal guy🤠👍

[@MetrologyEngineer]

I’ve seen ABOM tighten his 6 jaw lathe chuck from all of the pinions for less runout. I wonder if tightening a Jacob’s chuck from all three holes on the body could help the barrel of the chuck sit better.

[@MF175mp]

It's done for better grip, the best repeatability is achieved by using one marked pinion every time. Same probably goes for drill chucks.

[@dougguynn2622]

good idea,might try it some day myself

[@Raul28153]

is there some reason you don't protect your ways when dressing and grinding?

[@ROBRENZ]

Enjoyed Dale! ATB, Robin

[@EmmaRitson]

Awesome! looks like you got it fixed!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks My freind :-)

[@OldIronMachineWorks]

Dale, like to see more of your press. I have a original war time KR Wilson 25 ton. They are very cool presses. I'm sure you will like yours.

[@garrisonbishop2063]

I'd watch a video of you reassembling that press for sure.

[@btodoroff]

Late to the party, but I noticed at 2:18 the jaws were never evenly ground from toe to heal. Looks like they are designed to grip only at the top. Went back and looked because the 1deg on the compound didn't make sense to me. What am I missing?

[@MrNext2000]

Where fo you get your apron

[@rockerpat1085]

Cause Metal Health Will Drive You Mad!!! All Metal All The Time!!! Keep Rocking it out!!!

[@howardtoob]

I'm pretty sure the chuck, when ground this way, is going to be most accurate when a diameter test piece is the same as the diameter of the stone used. Can you check it using test pieces larger and smaller than the stone? I have a chuck with the same issue. Thanks

[@jagjitsehmbey670]

Hello sir how are you I want to know about how the jaws thread make do you suggest me any machine or video realting

[@MrHumpamonkey]

Try making sure the jaws stay in the same positions. Number or dot them, perhaps.

[@howardosborne8647]

Needle rollers from an old 2 stroke little end bearing would probably be about ideal for locking between the jaws.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Would love to see you rebuild the press

[@BuildSomthingCool]

It going to happen very soon

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I love working with metal

[@lucianobellebono9748]

Grande Dale!!! Ciao

[@maciekm7953]

Great video 👍 Thank You for sharing

[@AlbiesProductsOnline]

But it’s meant to be tapered aren’t they? so by angling the stone now only the tips will have full contact?

[@jankjensen222]

I would love seeing you refurbish the Press. Please!!

[@MetrologyEngineer]

3:56 As I’m sure you know vise is not a press. As always be careful with what you use it for, never use a cheater bar or mallet on the vise handle, and be prepared for if what you have in the vise comes flying out at your face. I get it you can’t use a transparent moving blanket to protect yourself from if the chuck were to come flying out when you’re recording a video, but I still thought it could be worth mentioning for those who see a vise and consider it a press. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work!

[@RevJynxed]

Hell yeah on the press rebuild.

[@jimharris4013]

Another good one.

[@craigsudman4556]

Nice video Dale, .003" is a pretty good tolerance for a drill press.

[@OldSneelock]

Hi Dale. Nice work on the chuck. Could you use the power feed? That would smooth out the feed rate. Of course I would like to see the press brake reassembled. I haven't met a machinist yet that doesn't love watching someone elese work. 😆😎

[@MrMichaeljab]

Ok Dale, you set me straight about the position of the jaws when pressing the chuck apart (Thank you), but not covering the lathe's ways from the grinding dust? What's up with that? It would be interesting to know how they grind the jaws at the factory. I've never seen any info on that process.

[@matman7546]

MrMichaeljab my first thought is a jig grinder

[@markkoons7488]

A Jacobs 19L came on an old drill press. The seller said the chuck needed "a little love". One jaw sets way back from the other two. Those two only travel about 1/4 their designed range of motion before the third jaw blocks further travel. Nothing appears broken. The problem of disassembly seems like a Rubik's Cube to me though I've disassembled other Super Chucks. The machine shop where I do business took a look and said, "You're out of luck" and handed it back. Any ideas? Would you be willing to try? Thank you for your channel. You put out good videos.

[@markmauzey1887]

What in the world in in the bridgeport spindle in the back?

[@mkegadgets4380]

Looks like a taping head?

[@mattbechberger3298]

Could be a planetary speed increaser for small drill diameters

[@bulletproofpepper2]

I just found out about walking the key from and old hand at work. He saw me drilling a holes in a plate to hold a new bracket. The welder had made a new bracket for me to install on my unit. He was very busy and had stopped he project and whipped up a piece fo me and went back to work. I had brought my drills and tools to work with me but I was using the company’s old drill press. The old drill press had an old worn out chuck, my coworker was working on some a few feet a way and watching but not watch. He said “hey you need to walk the key!” Me “walk the key? Him” around the chuck. “ i had just put a drill in the chuck, and he said “ spin it and watch the run out” “stop and now. walk the key” and it worked the run out was almost gone.

[@daseeyesh]

Oh Dale, Norris jaw never wears out! :P

[@court2379]

The question is, is a ground out used high quality chuck better than a new import chuck?

[@beachboardfan9544]

Where do you get a dressing diamond like that?

[@BuildSomthingCool]

On ebay

[@dannywilsher4165]

Thanks Dale!!!

[@Lurchstein]

Yes do the press resto

[@roscocsa]

You seem insanely familiar. This is gonna make ne crazy.

[@OldSneelock]

Look up sharpening a file with acid. 😆

[@zumbazumba1]

Do it like you do a lathe 3 yaw chuck? Put a peace of round steel on the bottom of the chuck and hold it tightly.Do your grinding,remove the metal ring and grind the bottom just to clear it.That should give you concentric ground jaws under load with very little runout.

[@1970chevelle396]

The first one of those chucks I tried to take apart I broke the jaws. I didn't know they were suppose to be in the middle.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I was lucky. The one I damage I was able to save:-)

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

Excellent process. Great tip!👍

[@tom18181]

You should rebuild that press man!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I will very soon. I hate not having one.

[@rompdude]

I feel there could be a follow-up for this. I recon you could get that thin edge back after this grind. You have the nice even face now, just grind the sides in to thin it out.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I thought about doing that. But I think it’s time for me to move on from doing videos about drill chucks and lathe chuck. I hope that ok? 😀😀😀

[@dtnicholls1]

Regarding the gripping force on a drill bit, it's almost all down to simple friction. It's proportional to the applied load, not the surface area, so touching more or less of the drill isn't going to make an appreciable difference. On the upside, if the drill bit starts to slip in the chuck I reckon you'll probably do less damage to the shank with a greater surface area as well. As to centripetal force holding the jaws in place, I don't think that's likely. The grinding forces would likely overcome the centripetal force quite quickly. It's more likely that it's simply how well fitted the jaws are to the chuck and the pressure applied during grinding. In any case, if the result is good that's all that really counts. Job well done I reckon.

[@jaysilverheals4445]

Hey I am very interested where you aquired the mag paralell device that rotates? I have an anton much bigger one but I also have a smaller one like what you are using in the video. Can yours still be searched out and what is it called and the company?? Thats it good video but am very curious about the ,mag device--I do in fact have a few videos of mine perhaps I will try to post the link.. Hope you see this message thanks

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Heres the company Sandox SD-3 Patent des 325390 hope this helps

[@jaysilverheals4445]

@@BuildSomthingCool THANKS

[@jaysilverheals4445]

@@BuildSomthingCool damn company must be closed--nothing comes up and I am good at keywords and searching..

[@JamesDedmon]

Awesome idea, are you actually using centrifugal force or, by screwing the chuck full open, it jams the jaws with pressure similar to grabbing something. Since you taped the chuck to prevent movement is why it appears to be the jamming action. Great video

[@chrissekely]

Regarding your point at 1:49 regarding the diminished pressure applied by the ground chuck jaws...that may not be true,or at least doesn't seem geometrically correct to me. Assuming the drill bit can be approximated as a cylinder, the cylinder can only contact a flat surface along, a straight line. It's either that or no contact at all. So, making the contacting planes larger y grinding would not change this. Of course this is also assuming no pressure induced surface deformation.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Hi Chris, Good comment, I m sorry I didn't explain it well enough. What I should have said is that the Harden Jaws are designed to bite into the soft shank of the drill bit, and by grinding the jaws you add more surface to them, and that prevents them bite into the shank of the bit. Dose that make since?

[@barthanes1]

Yes, restore the press.

[@RockingJOffroad]

Dale, I’m wondering if this might be done on a surface grinder some how? Then you could reprint the wedge side to narrow down the surface contact area.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

That was my goal, but I had know way to constantly set up the jaws

[@tommasofossati5123]

Tighten the Chuck on something and super-glue the jaws in place, grind and then heat It up, clean. Could It work? Never tried, Just thinking about it!

[@bobblack3870]

Interesting thought, but if you tighten on 'something', how are you going to get that 'something' out before you start work?

[@tommasofossati5123]

@@bobblack3870 maybe a piece of wood you draw out, It must be soft to push the jaws in their slots in an uniform way. Also you can use soft plastic, or hard Rubber. Imagine a round hardwood stock you can clamp into the vice and draw It out

[@BuildSomthingCool]

That might work. I wondering if you can get the glue a constant enough thickness. I have to give it some more thought. :-)

[@Z-Ack]

Thsts the reason i replace al my chucks because they get to the point of having every bit or drill slip in there and mar all their shafts...

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Never been first before Wow bucket list complete

[@zumbazumba1]

You can now die in peace knowing that you made this great accomplishment in your life, that history will remember you just like it remember julius ceasar ,napoleon,stalin or hitler XD

[@rickpalechuk4411]

@@zumbazumba1 LOL

[@fredcreer1929]

Hi Dale I am looking forward to the new format,with education as the basis. Yes please on the press, I assume that will be a rebuild, at the same time. Not centrifical but centrifugal. I don't think aluminium is ever going to be pronounced correctly, but we live in hope. Americans speak american. Not English.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

:-)

[@TheMadHatter626]

Press rebuild please

[@foomanchewthis]

The thumbs up click just wasn't enough of a "thanks". Thanks, Dale! And don't let the idiots get to ya! Your videos are greatly appreciated!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thank you :-)

[@josephdestaubin7426]

Not to be a troll about it, but the coefficient of friction is independent of surface area, given a constant force. In other words, if you're getting less holding power, it's because you changed the surface finish of the jaws rather than the surface area. I could be wrong about this, it's always been a little bit confusing to me, so I did a quick check. www.physlink.com/education/askexperts/ae140.cfm But even then, I could still be wrong.

[@toomdog]

That's the funny thing about friction - it IS independent of surface area. From what he says though, we're considering surface deformation as the clamping mechanism, not just friction. To deform a material, you have to apply a force, and that force always is applied over an area (in our real, non-ideal world). Since there's only so much force those jaws can apply, it deforms the drill bit less when it is distributed over a larger area. I'm still not sure I buy it, but I think that's the reasoning he explained. I might think about roughing up the surface finish a little to give me more grab instead.

[@josephdestaubin7426]

@@toomdog I thought that before I actually wrote my comment, but decided that the clamping force is really no different than the gravitational or normal force as applied to the question of friction. Obviously the clamping force is a great deal more than gravitational force, but the general concept should apply the same way. The concept I'm talking about is that when friction is distributed over a larger area it increases the frictional serface, but decreases, by that same area, the force applied by distributing that force over a larger area. The net result is that the coefficient of friction remains the same. And I honestly don't think it matters whether you're doing this on the Earth, on the moon, or between clamps, the relationship between surface contact and applied force over a surface area remains the same. But hey, I barely survived my physics class in college, so who knows. It would be great if some Physics teacher could chime in here and settle the matter.

[@josephdestaubin7426]

@@toomdog Addendum to my previous post, I don't think there are any chucks that can actually deform a drill bit. The reason chuks are hardened and the base of drill bits are not is so that the chuk jaws don't get damaged or worn during adverse use, such as when a bit begins to spin in the chuk. I know this is contrary to popular wisdom, I think if you think about the dimensionality of the pressure on a drill bit, reason will show that I'm correct about the lack of deformation.

[@toomdog]

I agree; I wish I could get my old college prof here too! I also agree that the shanks of drill bits are left soft not so that they deform when clamped, but to ensure they are the wearing item when slipping occurs. This is something I don't know a whole lot about, but I think surface deformation behaves a little differently than the deformation we learn about in statics and strength of materials. Imagine, instead of the entire chuck making an indentation, every microscopic high point creates an indent. That's what I think I'm talking about anyway. You know, if we were serious about this, we would do some research instead of just talking on youtube. I'm sure a mechanism like this has been studied before.

[@josephdestaubin7426]

@@toomdog "If we were serious..." LMAO to point of tears.... thanks for that, It's so true.

[@mikesimpson2840]

Hey build something cool.....How about you build some boots to wear in the shop???

[@stevewalston7089]

Maybe he can get an advance on his allowance from the wife to buy those boots.

[@askquestionstrythings]

+1 restore the hydraulic press video.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Hand raised got like 12 of them that are worn out

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Thumbs up on another fine video. No need to sub- I've been one for several years. If I may ask, what prompted you to move to CA, land of high taxes and very pricey real estate?

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I make to much money and thought government of California could use it ;-0 LOL

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

@@BuildSomthingCool Your generosity is certainly appreciated!

[@cpcoark]

Good video. You missed one thing. How do you tell when/if your jaw are worn out? You alluded to it in your viseo, but wasn't made clear. At least to me :-)

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Your right I missed that point. There are to ways, one I showed. Put a test rod in your chuck and test for it’s runout. Second thing to do is a visual inspection. Look in side and look at the jaws. They should all look the same. Have a consistent shape no tapers no nicks. I hope this helps. Great question.

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks. Incidentally you can change your water mark in your videos from your own icon to a subscribe icon, I'm told that helps (Though I've only just added mine and yet to find out).

[@ifell3]

Reassemble, you mean restore lol why didn't you make a press? Great video!!

[@dimitar4y]

Ps: he might be dumber than he seeems pssst

[@vettepicking]

Dale, you are a beginner.......?

[@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71]

Hi Dale, I am just wondering why you didn't order a new set of jaws.?

[@halifaxmax5039]

He said he gets quality chucks used for $20, but a new set of jaws that large are around $80, so he's trying to get more life out of them.

[@Quwoll]

Please do the hydraulicpress! Keep the good work up. ;)

[@hediho-ry6rs]

Nice sandals dale don’t drop anything haha 😵🏥

[@CapeCodCNC]

I trashed all my key type chucks and keys years ago, could not be happier.....

[@b2major9th]

Cape Cod CNC running keyless chucks in reverse no bueno

[@EDesigns_FL]

I prefer your idea of grinding them on a surface grinder. A small V-block on a sine plate should work.

[@daveticehurst4191]

Dale, interesting video. Now if you could now STOP having adverts throughout your video's ( never used to be ) then I will be a Happy Bunny.

[@yukonline]

04:20

[@elh3809]

warum wirfst du das schrottfutter nicht einfach weg und kaufst dir dafür ein gutes futter, bräuchtest du nicht so viel zeit vergäuden und würdest nebenbei was sinnvolles tun

[@purohd]

by the way you can just buy and service kit for $30 .

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Where?

[@purohd]

Mc master MSC or any company the sales machine shop tools

[@b2major9th]

Luis Caruso I just looked up the price on McMaster-Carr. The price for the 14N kit for the later style chuck that Dale has is $168.62, not $30

[@kmcwhq]

I've got a KR Wilson 50 ton press similar to that one. Mine has the 2 speed manual pump as well as a motorized pump, all factory. Had to make a new ram for it when I got it due to rust pitting. The new one with new seals still leaks just a bit. Mfg date on it is 1947. Company history info: krwilsontools.com/index.html

[@southmaplegarage]

Got your steel toe flip flops on atleast

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Safty first. :-)

[@satxsatxsatx]

Dale, couldn't someone with your equipment and skill mill/face the jaws rather than grind? Sure, work holding, esp repeated 3 times, would be a challenge on the mill but a DRO would help

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Hi Len. It would be hard to do it on the mill because the jaw are tool steel hard

[@jkdwayne]

Another Clueless content Creator .....

[@BuildSomthingCool]

jkdwayne Another clueless non content creator.