Driveline Vibrations! Help!

[@jamesjordan2918]

Looks like you have tried everything. I have a vibration on my 68 with a t5, but it vibrates all the time, in every gear. I am sure I have a drive shaft issue. Maybe some of the guys at the track will have some ideas. love your videos look forward to seeing what you find out.

[@Virtue1776]

The look on your face before you say “okay it’s not fixed” is my face... I’ve swapped drive shafts U joints had them both straighten and balanced. I’m at checking pinion angles and alignment of the driveline at this point. They previous owner installed Air Bags in the truck and maybe have done something to the rear end to misalign it. I’ve swapped a rear axle, wheel bearings, new ring and pinion gear set, pinion bearing and carrier bearing. I don’t know what kind of drive shaft you have but I know if the yokes are out of phase it will also cause a 2nd order vibration. My drive shaft is one solid piece I don’t really have the ability to screw up the install.... I don’t think. I have not how ever swapped out my rear yoke attaching the Ujoint to the rear diff. If that is tweaked just a few thousandths it will resonate forward and play that drive shaft like a big bass string. My vibration has all the characteristics of a drive shaft out of balance accompanied by a faint oscillation within the vibration indicating pinion angle is out of wack. It’s starts at around 30 if you’re really paying attention and is in your face at 70+. Besides the Airbags everything is stock. I like your videos and would love to find out if you solve your mustang vibration problem. I’m literally in the same boat and it’s a lot of time and money.

[@russandadamsgarage105]

Kesterdaddy my next course of action is to raise the transmission output shaft higher. Right now the output shaft is pointing down, it should be parallel to the ground or pointing up. This would allow me to angle the pinion down (pointing at the ground). As you accelerate the pinion will rise a certain amount depending on your rear suspensions rigidity. If this doesn't work I'm going to go to rubber engine mounts instead of polyurethane. If that still doesn't work I'm going to a CV type driveshaft from the driveshaft shop. This eliminates the requirement to have the angles set perfectly. -Adam

[@juanmartinez-ry9uv]

Maybe you should try a slip yoke driveshaft

[@adamgrantz5360]

I have 2 different cars with the same problem. one is T56mag and the other is automatic. I have tried CV joint style, slip shaft, Alum/ chromoly tubes, and adding or taking away angle in extreme amounts. Considering going to a 2 piece shaft now..

[@JPM788212]

Have checked your horizontal angles? Those matter just the same as the vertical angles you have already set.

[@michaelbraun2652]

Sounds like the pinion gear and/or the ring gear is not shimmed properly! It’s something in the rear end!

[@codyramos3200]

Been going through this with my mustang... new tires n balance helped but not 100% fix.. noticed rear right rim had a dent on the inside . Straightened rim out that helped but still vibration. Took rear rims off ran it on jackstands noticed the left axle flange or rotor is bent or warped.. so need to see what it is exactlt.. also found that the bushing for yoke in tailshaft housing is worn tf out.. yoke is worn too.

[@zaineridling]

I'm with you. I have a '08 F150 that vibrates at highway speeds (64-75+) and it's intolerable to drive -- too slow for interstate traffic and too fast on the other end without risking speeding tickets. Replaced front end, rear end, differential, real axle, force balance all wheels several times, re-weighted the wheels, U-joints, essentially everything but the driveshaft. Now I found an older Ford Service Bulletin that plainly states: "If you've tried everything else, replace the driveshaft...." Mind you, my dealership has been cleaning out my bank account and wasting my f*cking time putzing around with this issue when I know people locally who've bought new 250s and 350s and have this same wobble on their new trucks! The whole situation just pisses me off that I -- the non-expert -- has to become expert at fixing this. They should know their business better IMO. >GOOD LUCK!

[@russandadamsgarage105]

Zaine Ridling I had the driveshaft on my F150 replaced under warranty fortunately. In this video I was discussing a driveline vibration in my 67 mustang. Thanks for watching. -Adam

[@dstolarc]

Before you do drastic changes try some simply things. First jack up the rear end under the center section a few inches so the tires are off the ground. Now run it up to 80mph or wherever the vibration is. Now remove the wheels and tires, replace all the lugnuts, you might have to put them on backwards depending on your rear wheels. Spin it up again. Did it change anything? If the vibration is still there, remove the rear axles, spin it up again. If the vibration is still there then most likely the drive shaft guy shafted you again. You say you check and changed/corrected pinion angle, have you researched different ways to check it? You may just be measuring things wrong, try again. There are two important measurements. Engine/trans angle and pinion angle. Forget about measuring the drive shaft angle. If the engine/trans points down at 3 degrees, your pinion should point up about 1 to 2 degrees, not 3 like the engine trans. The rear end pivots up on acceleration. Check something else. When you installed the engine/trans did you point the trans straight at the pinion? If so, that could be the problem. The engine /trans should be parallel to the frame rails, the rear end is pointed parallel to the rails. They need to be parallel to each other.

[@russandadamsgarage105]

dstolarc great ideas. I’ve tried a few of them already but I never thought about having the engine and trans pointing at the diff. The car is on adjustable polyurethane engine and trans mounts. I was thinking about putting regular rubber mounts back in that are non adjustable. I lowered the engine and pushed it back as far as I could for CG reasons. I’ll let you know what happens when I make the changes. -Adam

[@dstolarc]

Russ and Adam's Garage you can most likely get the engine trans parallel to the frame rails by just using the trans mount. Get the center of the output shaft centered between the rockers. Then check the crank to see if it is centered.

[@russandadamsgarage105]

dstolarc I’ll do that. Great advice. -Adam

[@matthammett642]

Having the same issue been chasing it for months now. Please tell me it was your diff that's my last thing to replace.

[@matthewmcdonald2908]

I have this exact same issue in my mustang and have tried so many things to fix it but no luck. Do you have any updates on this? 65 Coupe 347 ci SBF Ron Morris lowering engine mounts T5 z spec Modern Driveline crossmember Steel and Aluminum driveshafts Ford 9" 3.89 by Quick Performance

[@yanghu3592]

Can you explain what exactly the vibration feels like? It's coming from underneath or the steering wheel? My Mustang also has issue of driveshaft vibration. I have tried Dorman driveshaft, costum built driveshaft. The built one has less vibration, but it creates lots of noise after 80 mph. Feeling is like coming from pinion bearing, but it has not issue for over 100 mph. It just sounds like...a truck... If it doesn't hurt your trans and diff, doesn't create extra wearout, it probably just a part of her character.

[@yanghu3592]

I guess you haven't tried panhard bar yet. Many people will disagree me, but it doesn't hurt to adjust the pinion angle horizontally.

[@russandadamsgarage105]

The car is down for LS7 conversion, but might be something to try.

[@bodyshotjake7475]

did you ever get this figured out?

[@russandadamsgarage105]

No we didn't. The car is undergoing a ton of work right now. We'll see when its done and back on the road.

[@SGAOuTLaWz]

1 year later. Did you figure it out? Thanks for posting the video.

[@matiasclaviji1424]

@@russandadamsgarage105 I got the same problem on my truck and no one can give me a solution. I think the vibration comes from the slip youk on the tail of the gearbox.

[@Mkiiisoup]

Figure it out yet??

[@bodyshotjake7475]

@@Mkiiisoup The vibration must be from the output shaft bushing wearing out. That’s a problem because the case has to be emptied to repair it. Could have been a great swap transmission but, sadly. It’s just not