Dry hopping your home brewed beer the right way

This video is about dry hopping your home brewed beer the right way
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring.com/stores/davi...
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae

[@Wild-Boar-Brewing]

Very interesting, thanks for uploading. Will no doubt come back to this video when I'm about to dry hop for the first time. Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Glad you enjoyed it :) Plenty more videos on my channel and more coming very soon :)

[@ale-iensbrewery8871]

Another informative video, thanks very much David. Keep em coming.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Glad you enjoyed. I just uploaded something new :)

[@garykelly7588]

David fantastic tip with tea strainers. You are a champ. Thanks very much.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers Gary 🍺🍺🍺

[@booldawg]

Thanks for the upload. Been brewing all grain since 2008 but never got into dry hopping. Will give it a go!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Go for it :) It is popular for good reason :)

[@martinremmel4535]

Thank you very much for all the information , i Loved all your Videos so far! keep Up the good Work

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks Martin, much appreciated :)

[@christones2252]

nice tips david keep them coming

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Glad you found it useful Chris :) More coming very soon :)

[@MysteryFishBrewery]

Thanks David, as always. Note to self: I've always dry hopped with pellets and never with whole hops... until this evening. I put 100g of citra in a mesh bag with 5 marbles, but they showed no signs of sinking. I then added the overflow thingy from the G30 (pretty decent chunk of stainless steel), but still without any sign. I tried shoving the bag under the surface with a long spoon, to try to wet them. Nope. Basically, if the Titanic's hold had been full of dry, whole hops, it'd have been fine. It all got very frustrating and messy tonight - I just hope that no nasties got into the fermenter during my troubles. I kept sanitising my hands and the stuff that went into the FV ...and the brew is at high krausen, so fingers crossed! It's my first no-boil experiment too!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, pellets are easier to work with in various ways. Most breweries just use pellets because of this and the space saving.

[@MultiChef888]

Hi David a very helpful video thanks , Ivan

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+MultiChef888 Glad you found it useful :) Plenty more on my channel :)

[@Danny-ib6ew]

Brillaint video, thanks for yohr help! Ive order my first all grain kit; jt came with eome citrusy hope for "dry hopping" and honestly this video has explained it perfect. Currently tryint to figure out how im gping to get a hopsock out of a demijohn when the time comes 😂 thanks mate

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers Danny. Great to hear 🍻🍻🍻

[@david5184]

I have dry-hopped only once, but it came out good. I got the idea late, so I added a sock to the cold keg, hanging on a sewing thread. Just like you say in the video, a grassiness appeared after some time but I didn’t remove the sock, finding the taste interesting (both for better and worse). The taste matured over time and the grassiness subdued, making the beer ever better. The hops I used were ‘teamaker’, which have virtually no bitterness whatsoever but a very fine flavor with several tones in it. I don’t know if I will dryhop the keg again because it partially clogged the tube, it was as if the keg developed a prostate condition. This time around I’ll follow your method

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, it's easy to delay a beer with such methods. Try this way and I am sure you will prefer the results and the faster time :)

[@nakirico]

Great idea using the tea infusers . Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+rico viper Sure works well :)

[@miguel_fueguito]

It turned out pretty good! The beer is a bit phenolic, but I think it's due to the temperature control, it went up to 25 C the first day. The dry hopping went smooth. I was quick, no oxidation I don't think. It taste great, I think it could take more hops though. Cheers David!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great, some things to change for the next one :)

[@jordhuga271]

Always like to see what people are doing.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

.

[@andetortorelli]

What a great idea the use of marbles! I instinctively thought I could get a better result by sinking the muslin bag fully into the beer, however, I could not think anything easily sterilisable. Thank you, David!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Vinicius Tortorelli Glad you found it useful :)

[@JimProng]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I've used a stainless steel spoon in the past, but I'm due to dry hop a 5L test brew in a couple of days so I'll purloin some marbles.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great, it works well :)

[@MrSomethingElse]

Hey really helpful, thank you.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear, cheers 🍻🍻

[@tommyhernandez9425]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. Thanks David. I can always try 3 ounces, if two still isn't enough.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻🍻

[@thomasfrank1227]

Thank you.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers :)

[@tommyhernandez9425]

thanks again David. I will try the Nobel hops for the pilsner. As for the brown ale, it is an American brown ale. I have seen U.S Golding's hops online. I don't know if they will have the same effect as the English hops, but I'll try them.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

.

[@ksmith9887]

thanks!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻😎

[@olleramstrom6622]

Great, trankokad you

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers 🍻🍻🍻

[@mikeoneil8564]

David, wondering if you would please review how to dry hop using the new Grainfather Conical fermenter. Thank you.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Mike O'Neil Same methods :)

[@JonaHarrisJensen]

can you make a video about dry hopping tips with the grainfather conical fermenter and other good tips for the conical fermenter ? that would be great if possible.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+JonaHarrisJensen Sure, if I can think of enough content for it. Dry hops wise I've been doing that same as always. See my dry hop video , if you haven't watched that already.

[@tomnorman9825]

Hi David, thanks for the great video. Once hops are at the bottom of the fermenter do you recommend giving the beer a good stir through regularly or is it best to let them sit and permeate through? Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Tom, never stir just let them be :)

[@barryfroelich3526]

👍 Great information. Planning a dry hop to the brown ale .

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers Barry 🍻

[@barryfroelich3526]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the reply . Which variety of hops and amount should I add to a brown ale ? Past primary fermentation two week following the brew day. Fermentation has stopped. In a secondary bucket at 65 degrees. Going to bottle it in another week . Your videos are a great learning tool. Thanks.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Barry. There are many choices depending on what you are looking for. Centennial is one of my dry hop favourites.

[@barryfroelich3526]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Following up on the advice for dry hopping. I did go with 2 ounces of Centennial Hops. Dropped on Monday bottled it on Saturday morning. The green beer sample was good . Are the used hops reusable ? Thank you for your feedback.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great. No you cannot reuse, there will be no oils left.

[@crazyknotts6016]

thanks :)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Cheers 🍻🍻🍻

[@LouB3rt]

Hi David, Another great video. I have a grainfather fermenter (can dump trub) and I have to dry hop soon. I have not taken off the trub at all yet for my initial fermentation (9 days) for my saison since it didn't call for it. Now it is time to dry hop, and I am wondering if I should dump the trub/yeast cake before adding hops. so are you supposed to dry hop in primary, or secondary stage of fermentation/vessel? any information is appreciated. thank you

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks. Personally I do not trub dump before dry hopping. I would before a fruit addition though. Perhaps try both and see the difference for yourself?

[@mikebooysen3678]

Hi David. Many thanks for the amazing videos! I have a question with regard to dry-hopping in a Fermzilla 55L unitank. What is the best method to do this? Do you add hops under pressure? I have added hops once at the bottom that seem to have never made it out of the bottom catchment container. On another brew I opened the top and hopped from above the wort, but the carbonation seems to interfere with the amount of contact that the hops get. Any advice appreciated. Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Mike, if you are using pressure then have the bottom valve open until you want to remove the bottom jar. Add hops into this jar after removing some wort if needed so it fits. I prefer to bag my dry hops personally. You can then screw the jar back in place before opening the valve again. I only open mine partially so that the hop bag remains in the jar for easy removal later. The most important things are to be clean and sanitary with that hop bag. I hope this helps.

[@bobketcheson3350]

Great video; thanks! One question for a newbie....I have made several beers so far, and cold crashed each one with good results. Gut feel tells me that I shouldn't be cold crashing a Hazy IPA, but am a bit worried about the dry hop (pellet) residue left in the beer. Is this part of the haze, or should I cold crash it and remove some of the haze prior to bottling?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Bob. This is really a question of taste. Either way the amount of residue is not going to be an issue.

[@tommyhernandez9425]

thanks David for the reply. I really appreciate that. I was thinking about using sterling hops for my Pilsner, & using Phoenix hops for my brown ale. Any thoughts on what hops to use for these two beers? I'm looking to add More flavor rather than oroma.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Tommy Hernandez It really depends on the sort of Pilsner and brown ale you want. The American versions use their own varieties. The authentic originals use hops available in the regions they were created in. Pilsners would be noble hops (Czech beer ) , Saaz being very typical. Brown ale started in England and uses native hops. East kent goldings is classic. If you can get these varieties then I would highly suggest them.

[@nilserich]

Hi David. Thanks for a great informativ video. I know you recomend to leave beer in the fermentor for up to 3 weeks. My recipe says to dry hop after 7 days. Should I remove the hop-bag after 3-4 days and then wait another 7-10 days before bottling?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you. I would suggest you add the hops when the beer is close to final gravity. Then you can just transfer after 3-5 days. Adding after 7 days is really too little information. There should be more to it than that really. You could end up having to fish them out to avoid off flavours which just doesnt seem worth it to me. Different people have different methods, just my take on it :)

[@lllSklllZ]

Interesting idea indeed, thanks for sharing! Let me ask if it couldn't cause a problem when the sank hops get in contact with the layer of dead yeast at the bottom?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I should be clear that this is not my idea. It is used a lot in commercial and homebrewing, it just isn't spoken about enough is all :)

[@cidermeister9440]

Good timing on your excellent video. Big Banana's recently been asking for advice on the best temperature to dry hop? DIY_DOG (BrewDog's publication of their recipes) suggests 14C. Do you have any preference for pellets or leaf? Cheers.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I got used to leaf back in the old days but pellets are more compact and require less space, so thats handy. Temperature wise ive mostly dry hopped in the fermenter at the temperature required for the yeast. Ive never been as low as 14 but feel ive had the desired results. I have dry hopped in kegs previously at colder fridge temperatures and havent really noticed much difference in the effect. Its the oil we are after and that will come through no matter what I believe.

[@trondbrattland6380]

Hello, David. I really enjoy watching your videos. I have dryhopped a couple of times. Every time the beer have got a quite strong taste of diacetyl. I have read that this could be due to oxygen following the pellets into the beer. Do you have an advice on this?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Trond Brattland Thats great to hear Trond. In regards to the diacetyl I would suggest adding a diacetyl rest for 2-3 days before dry hopping. I tend to ferment ales at 18 for a week then raise to 21 at 1 deg c per day. This also ensures that your yeast gives full attenuation.

[@bastiaangaillard7682]

Hi David, I would like to brew your Juicy IPA and have a question about the dry hopping part. Do you use the flowers for dry hopping or the granule? Many thanks for all your videos. It is a pleasure to watch and learn. Cheers.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, I am using hop pellets always. No problem with full hops but they are no so available here. Hope you enjoy the beer, it is a popular recipe :)

[@bastiaangaillard7682]

Many thanks David. Going for the pellets (Google translate gave me "granule").

[@Bullsbrew551]

Hi David enjoy your video's. If I want to cold crash in the primary fermentor ( to minimize oxidation from racking) and dry hop at the end of primary fermentation what would be the best procedure? Is it OK to subject the hops to the cold for a couple days? What would be your recommendation ? Cheers!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Mark. I would suggest adding the hops when you are close to FG within 5-10 points. No problem in cold crashing with the hops. The problems can start if you add the DH after fermentation and splash them in.

[@iwannabrewchris2767]

Great Video, im going to get some of these SS ones. also is temperature important in dry hopping? in the DIYDog Recipe book they say that 14°c is ideal? Cheers 🍻

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Temperature is a point but personally I dry hop at my fermentation temp and get the results that I am happy with.

[@iwannabrewchris2767]

Thanks David, thats what i do atm but was hoping i wasn't making the most out of my Hops

[@bixlere]

For the Fermzilla, would cutting a piece of 300-400 micron mesh stainless steel to fit the top of the collection cup essentially turn the collection cup into a large tea infuser? Since the collection cup larger diameter than the the butterfly valve I'm hoping the mesh should just stay in place (I might create some sort of gasket for it or just turn the edges down). I'm thinking of doing this for my next batch in the Fermzilla so I can remove the hops after I'm done with dry hopping and don't have to worry about a lot of debris going up into the beer and settling back out.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Interesting idea, I have been thinking about this myself :) I am going to try it :)

[@2giantmonsters]

Thank you. I hop with pellets which break down to a fine particulate. Does the same technique apply? Thank you

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, they are go that way in the end :)

[@davidalmond6019]

Do you have a link to those nice stainless hop pots. I got some hop balls which fell apart after the first brew. Crap welds on the catch and hinges. Ive used stainless brewing fitting to weigh them down as I dont trust chemicals in marbles. But then I am paranoid lol

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

This looks like the one:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Tea-Ball-Infuser-Spice-Strainer-11cm-Large-Herb-Mesh-Strainer-/261503246152?hash=item3ce2cedf48:g:JQwAAMXQ74JTQ2Df

[@luclaferriere8017]

Hi David and thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge. I am new to homebrew with one batch brewed and three weeks taking classes on KZbin. I learn a lot from your videos. One question: In this video, you clearly open your fermenter to add hops. Isn't it risky? What are the precautions to use? I mean, we use an air lock to avoid air in but we can open the lid?? Thanks

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Luc, great to hear. There certainly are risks involved. Check out one of my recent IPA videos. I show how to handle the dry hop to avoid any issues.

[@luclaferriere8017]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Very clear. Thanks

[@arskantappokone]

Nice video David! How many grams of hops you put in those tea infusers? I ordered four of those and was hoping to use at least 30g in each, is it doable?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I go half full, ive never measured it though.

[@mcswegin]

whole cones in a carboy isn't a waste. they saturate and sink in after a day or two. it works fine. try it sometime.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

McSwegin q The fact that it takes that amount of time is the issue. Try it sometime? Well a brewery I worked for had us doing it regularly until we proved alternative methods to be superior.

[@tommyhernandez9425]

Hey David, how are you doing? I'll be dry hopping an American west coast red ale next week. I'm using casade hops. The last time I brewed this style I dry hopped with one ounce of casade. ( Which gave the beer a noticeable aroma & flavor) however it still wasn't were I wanted it to be. This time I'm using 2oz of casade. It's not quite 1 & 1/2 gallons of beer. I'd say about 1.4 gallons. I'm looking for a good punch of hoppy goodness, but not to strong. Do you think 2oz will be ok?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Tommy, It really is a case of trying it and seeing. What is right for one person may not be right for another.

[@rockspider692]

Hi David. In your opinion, what is the best way to dry hop your wort? I’m using the stainless steel tea strainers as per your video. With the hop rocket, can you use that as well?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

The hop rocket provides a different method to dry hopping but they certainly can be combined for more powerful results :)

[@Saltybrewbro]

how do you feel about dry hopping under pressure and purging large whole leaf dry hops additions with Co2 due to the amount of oxygen you can expose to the beer?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Ive never had an issue with oxidisation in a beer in over 25 years for any reason at all. Ive also dry hopped with just 10L batches in 30L fermentation vessels. I think you will find that most breweries dont dry hop under pressure either.

[@joshbuhl9824]

Hi David. Could you please measure the size of the holes on your stainless steel tee strainers? I got some on your advice, but when I dry hopped with them a lot of the hop particulate managed to get thru the small holes on the strainers. There was so much in fact, that I had to throw out the last approx. 3l in the fermenter because it was just green soup, and this batch ended up with some small hop flakes in the beer that I did bottle...I was wondering if you haven‘t had this problem as the size of your holes looks similar to mine in the video. cheers.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Josh, the holes are likely to be the same. The trick is to only half fill the tea strainer with hops as a maximum. Then this problem will be no more :)

[@mikepapadelta3259]

David, to dry hop in the grainfather conical, should I do a yeast/trub dump before hand? I have a recipe which states dry hop on day 5 and remove and dry hop again at day 10. Thinking 5 days might be a bit shorter of time to yeast/trub dump.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Michael, I would only do this for fruit additions, not hops. Really no need for it. If you use hop socks and string you can add and fish out easily enough. Tie the string to a handle. Just make sure it is all clean and sanitary of course.

[@reflux043]

Just making sure i got that right, you add the hops on the last few days of fermentation? What would happen if you added them after its fermented and then leave it for a few more days?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Then you risk oxidising the beer :)

[@vizzo7]

hi, thank you for your videos. I have question. is it important to dry hop before the fermentation is finished? When you dryhop you seal the fermentation with CO2? thx

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great, thank you Viz. Yes, correct. The other important point is that the dry hopping with assist the yeast in finishing at full attenuation.

[@Omegaboy23]

I noticed that you sanitized the bags. Do you do anything with the hop pellets to prevent contamination? Are they just added straight out of the package into the hop bag and into the fermentation vessel?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes. Clean and sanitise the bags, the hops need nothing themselves :)

[@jannestralberg9783]

Hi David. When fermenting with Kveik at higher temperature (over 30c), should i lower the temp before adding the hops? And should I remove the hops before starting cold crash?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, I reduce my temps down after adding the hops and fermentation is over. 18-21 deg c is a good temp.

[@fugitive086]

Hey David, great video! Any tips on minimising oxygen contact into the fermenting beer? (Grainfather Conical) Cheers!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Shane. When transferring never splash the beer. Purge the headspace with Co2 after dry hopping. Always dry hop whilst you still have fermentation:)

[@chesstounette]

​@@DavidHeathHomebrew So, in the Grainfather conical, if you have approximately 1-2 days of fermentation left, and you want to dry hop for 3-5 days, would you rack the beer into the kegs after the 3-5 days so that the hops don't stay in the beer too long? That would put the total time in the fermenter around 14 days. Is it not better to leave the beer in the conical up to 21 days? Or then would you just let it rest in the keg another week? Thanks so much, your videos are soooo helpful.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes. Rack the beer after fermentation is done and then dry hopping is finished. If for whatever reason fermentation does not finish then remove the dry hops and continue. Very rare though for me.

[@chesstounette]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks so much!

[@danielborbolla4677]

hi David, im interested in dry hopping an IPA and i would hate if it spoils from the bacteria present in the hops. is there a way to sanitize the hops before adding them?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Daniel, I would suggest freezing the hops for afew days before thawing and adding. It wont kill everything possible but it has served me very well. In just over thirty years I have not had a single issue through dry hopping. Just be sure to sanitise the bag, if you are using one.

[@johno7617]

Do you add hops in whirlpool and dry hop? Do you dry hop in primary or secondary? I dont do secondary so ill just dry hop toward end of primary fermentation. I prefer to brew saisons and Belgian styles but my friends keep bugging me for NE IPA style which is fine but i can only take in small doses. Thanks

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, you can certainly do both. I rarely do secondary, just primary.

[@Pygou21]

Hello David with your expérience which hop filter is your favorite one ? Between tea balls, muslim bag, etc. I do use a lot amount of hops during DH (about 150-180gr for Neipa or some IPA) as you know hops will expand and inside if the size is not appropriate it will be dry in the center. Which ones do you recommend ? Thx for your advice !

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Personally I prefer to use anything made of stainless steel. Large tea strainers or hop tubes. This is because they add weight,encouraging the hops to drop into the wort faster and are easy to clean. I only fill these half way to avoid a dry centre. For larger hop amounts I use hop socks, throwing them away after use.

[@alastairsmith7984]

Hi David. I pressure ferment. Would you recommend not pressure fermenting any recipe that requires dry hopping? When transferring from fermenter to keg under pressure, would a hop rocket be any use? TIA

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, pressure fermentation works very well with hoppy beers and dry hopping.

[@xuedalong]

Any special consideration when dry-hopping using pellets? I usually throw mine in at the top and they sink down after a couple of days before i rack (through a filter) to the keg.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I suggest adding them to a container so that they instantly drop for faster results. You can then remove them faster and reduce the risk of unwanted vegetable flavours that could be permanent with extended times.

[@allanhaydock825]

Hi David. I read a fair bit about oxidisation, how do you avoid that possibility when adding the dry hops?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Allan, Firstly add dry hops before fermentation has ended. If you miss that then dissolve some sugar in water and add this when you add the dry hops. Ensure that you do not splash when adding.

[@Nefariousrouge]

Will the hop matter drop to the bottom after some of the oils are pulled out? I’m in the process of dry hopping a brew right now, and in testing out one of those hop droppers, I added the stuff (pellets) loose. I let it go a few days not knowing with it sitting at the top. I had to shake it and break up the matter for it to clear the crud off my floating dip tube just so it would function. And now I disturbed the brew and have to let it sit a little. It has only been 4 days. Wish I would have watched this video before.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, usually they will quite fast. Cold crashing will speed this up too 🍻🍻😎

[@SteveDrift31]

Hi David, Can u recommend a few hops to dry hop with for slight bitterness but more so a good fruity flavor and aroma. Cheers in advance.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Steve Reilly Dry hops will not add bitterness but they can add aroma and a little flavour. Go for NZ hops like wakutu for a strong fruityness. If you want more citrus then Cascade and Amarillo are great. Less powerfull but very nice is Mandarina bavaria hops. So much to choose from!

[@alexanderstahlner583]

If I dry hop in stages lets say 150grams at a time (due to not having enough containers for all dry hops at once at the moment) will the time you specified apply to all dry hop additions combined if I remove my first dry hop before putting in my second one in or is that time for each addition?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

When you do this then it is about the time the hops are in contact with the wort/beer. Generally 3 days is enough before removing as the hop oils have been released. Hope this helps :)

[@peterobinson8364]

Many thanks for all the videos. I was reading about dry hop creep and the creation of diacetyl as a by-product of dry hopping. Do you normally dry hop (for x days), remove the hops and continue to maintain the fermentation temperature to allow the yeast to remove this issue?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Pete, I have, for over 30 years now, always added my dry hops late in fermentation after ramping up fermentation temperature to combat diacetyl. I limit dry hopping to a maximum of 5 days but my goal is 3 days. Not once I have experienced diacetyl or hopcreep.

[@tman9338]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew David, So how do you target your 3-5 day window for high gravity (8%) IPA’s??? I understand the yeast and temp will play a role ?? Little help??

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No problem, start rising temps to assist the yeast in finishing. Adding the dry hops will help push the yeast forward also.

[@tragporr7412]

very nice video. i'm still in the early stages of learning about brewing with the hope of attempting it myself some day. quick question, does the sanitizer affect the taste at all?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Trag Porr Hi, no it doesn't and is essential :)

[@mcswegin]

don't fear the foam!!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No not at all :)

[@peterharris2104]

Hi David. I’m assuming you dry hop for 4 days and then cold crash. I have a brewtech chronical. Would you drop the trub before cold crashing or after before bottling. Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Peter, I seldom cold crash these days to be honest. I would drop the trub before bottling.

[@Marks_Channel]

Very informative David. Once fermentation has finished I want to transfer to a new VF, drop the temp to 14c and then add the dry hops for 5 days, then crash cool to -1c for a further 5 days. Is it ok to crash cool with the dry hops still in the VF or is it best to transfer to another FV before I crash cool.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

It's best to dry hop first, remove them and then cold crash. You could transfer also, though I would try both ways and make a judgement call. If you are dry hopping with large amounts then a transfer is more desirable.

[@veljacvetkovic]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David, I learn a lot watching your videos. What's about oxidation from the air that come in fermenter when I removing hops after dry hop?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks. As long as you do not splash then there are no concerns :)

[@ausflo]

Hi thanks for this video. I have a question. When I dry hop my beers and then keg them it tastes good during the first couple of days. However, from that time on it starts to produce an unpleasant bitter taste. What could I do to avoid this? I use hop bags when dry hopping. Cheers from Brazil...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you. I would suggest dry hoping for 3 days and see how that suits your taste :)

[@tman9338]

Your best tips on removing hops without oxidation risk? Unless I’m using Kviek, hops will try in tooo long and the grassy will begin. I thought best time to release using magnets was at Day 2-3 when the Krause peaks? I target high gravity IPA’s only and looking for best time to drop with magnets and not leave in tooo long.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

The best tip is to time them so that you transfer after 3-5 days. This is my method. It works great for extra aroma and no issues.

[@zt7489]

Hi David, thanks for the video. I have a WiFi inkbird temp controller. I attempted to add dry hops toward the end of the fermentation stage, but the fermentation slowed down (even though I gradually increased the ferment temp). I removed the hops after 4 days - this time the hops were in a hop sack and where near the top of the fermenter. Are there any methods of dry hopping where, if the hops need to be removed before the fermentation has completed, they could be retrieved from the bottom? Thanks in advance.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you. A common practise it to use string or a chain that fastens somewhere safe. This way they can be removed easily out.

[@zt7489]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks, David. I'm only using a plastic fermenter currently. Have you got any suggestion for a method of doing this that would remain sanitised. I'm stumped tbh!

[@EmilGustavssonUp]

Great video as always. Can you link out to where you got the tea strainers? There is so many out there with mixed reviews. I also wanted to ask you around dry hop directly into the fermentation vessel and then cold crash to get all the debris to the bottom. Is there any clear downsides apart from cleaning? Thank you so much and keep up the good work!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Emil, the seller on Ali Express that I bought these from sadly no longer carries them but if you look for those that look the same then that should be a good way forward :)

[@EmilGustavssonUp]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks a lot for your reply. I suspected Aliexpress. Unfortunatly the long shipping times forces me to other options :) Did you find the quality for long time use ok? Might be worth order a few

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I've had mine for way over a year now and they are still doing great.

[@EmilGustavssonUp]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Great to hear! :) I will check them out

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

:)

[@dnoha1]

Might be question for dry hopping, but even more for boiling: if we put hops in muslin bag for some time into worth (boiling), and remove it, is then any supstance left in worth which will continue to release bitterness (or flavour)? Main consern is that I try apply standard recepies to no-chill method, but few tries until now feels like too much bitterness left (even when hops removed after time designed by recept).

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hop oils release very quickly at boiling temps and usually after 2-3 days at ambient temps. There is nothing left afterwards.

[@richardbaird4352]

Hi David - just want to confirm - If I am adding hops in primary fermenter after fermentation by opening the top and adding the hops, then closing the top there is no issue with the fact that the CO2 is now out of the fermenter and replaced with oxygen? Thanks I really like all your videos!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Richard. Thank you :) Yes. It is best to add dry hops before fermentation is over. This way the oxygen will be replaced by c02 keeping your beer safe :)

[@dermo7190]

The recipe I am doing says to dry hop on day 10 off a 21 day fermentation in primary should I take the hops out at day 7

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Such long dry hop schedules are really unwise considering hop burn/ off flavours and really have no real benefit. I suggest 3-5 days max. Best to add them in the last days. No problem fermenting for 21 days but watch out for risks to oxidisation.

[@Redgethechemist]

Hi, I have a crucial question about dry hopping, avoiding contamination is essential for brewing, is it necessary to preboil hops before doing this? You apparently don't do it but there would be a possibility, right? I did a dry hopping once for now and I boiled 100 mL of water into which I added my hop pellets for a few minutes before adding to my fermenter. I don't know if it's the right thing to do but in the end I obtained a pretty good beer with hoppy flavours. I know that boiling will add more bitterness due to isomerisation but what's worse, a slightly more bitter beer or a beer ruined by contamination? What are the risks if I just add non boiled pellets which come from a jar kept in the freezer? Thanks for your videos.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Actually no there is no need. Contamination tends to come from containers like hop socks rather than the hops that actually work as a preservative. Boiling in a small amount of water will release the oils though, so as such will work. Hope this helps :)

[@dishortt1]

Hi David, I've just ordered some XXL tea strainers for dry hopping. How do you retrieve these from the bottom of your fermenter? I was thinking about getting some stainless chain that could be easily sanitised.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great. I remove them after transfer. I always stage my hops so that this works well.

[@dishortt1]

So do you always transfer to a secondary fermenter? Or do you mean that you only add the dry hops 3-5 days before bottling? I'd like to avoid moving my beer around and hope to bottle straight from the primary fermenter (Speidel 30L)

[@monicachiarascordino9975]

Is it better to put pellets in the hop sock or leave them free in the beer? Thanks

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hop sock or a tea strainer is much better.

[@peterscandlyn]

Thanks for that David. I 'm unsure whether to dry hop in primary or secondary. Do you have any words of wisdom on this please? I'm finding with my GF brewing I get a better result going back to secondary ferment, something I haven't done for years.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Peter Scandlyn Hi, Peter, With beer styles like this I never do secondary at all anymore. It used to be common practise of course but not anymore for many homebrewers. These days I only use secondary on beers that need longer that 1-2 months worth of conditioning time, which for the most part are strong beers that are not IPAs. Hope this helps.

[@peterscandlyn]

Sure did David. Thanks for that, cheers.

[@etiennepretorius9565]

Silly question, do you remove hopps from the fermenter after say 3 to 4 days, and if yes does your yeast get dumped too?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I simply move the beer off of them transferring into a keg. By this time the beer is finished as I add all dry hops close to fermentation end.

[@marekslowik8814]

If you use a bag, do you squeeze all the beer out of the bag when taking out the hops? I've heard that some people say it gives the beer more tannins...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

It has been proven to have no further lasting effect. So no problem there :)

[@joshbuhl9824]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew so, do you squeeze the bag?

[@tommyhernandez9425]

hi David. I'm a new home brewer. Been brewing for about 9 months now. for the time being I'm only brewing all extract recipes. because of my limited space in my home I only brew small two gallon batches. I'm interested In doing some dry hopping, but don't know how much of the hops I use for a two gallon batch. would you happen to know?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Tommy Hernandez It really depends on the desired effect. Some prefer very different rates per gallon to others. Experiment is the best way forward. You might find this useful:-brulosophy.com/2015/09/21/dry-hop-quantity-a-little-vs-a-lot-exbeeriment-results/

[@Lake-oi9rs]

do you prefer dry hopping during fermentation or after fermentation? I've heard dry hopping during fermentation creates a more hazy beer?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

To protect against oxidation is is best to dry hop while there is fermentation still present. You can always clear beer later :)

[@malkocy]

Hi David, very informative video as same as with all your videos. Thank you very much.. I usually keep my brew in the fermentation vessel for 21 days.. For dry hoping, should I add the hops on day7, and take them out on day10, and wait for the 21days? Or I should add on day18, and bottle them on day21? After the dry hoping, does the brew need to wait for a few days in the fermenter to settle down the oils and debris?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

For beers that require a dry hop I would suggest a different approach to avoid oxidisation. Add the dry hops shortly before you reach final gravity. After 3-5 days you can then reduce the temperature down low to avoid off flavours but still keep to the 21 day vessel time.

[@malkocy]

David Heath Homebrew thank you very much for your reply.. The off flavors meanşng mainly grassy notes? And lower the temperature to the low end of the suggested fermentation temperatures, or even below fermentation temperatures?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Grassy & vegatable flavours and the dreaded hop burn. When you first dry hop many prefer the effect from 18-21C. Hold this temp for 3 days and then right chill down to 3-5C if you can. This will slow things down greatly.

[@malkocy]

Thanks a lot for your help😄 Great to get your response☺️

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No problem, always happy to help :)

[@dnoha1]

Boilng tea pot is sure best thing. But, is sanitizing in Starsan not good enough?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Very sorry for the late comment for some reason KZbin hid this from me. You want clean and sanitary. Star san does not clean.

[@lordalderbury1506]

What if we boil them seperately in some wort for a few minutes before adding?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

For a few minutes will not hurt but it will reduce their effect.

[@wyattalexander4041]

I wonder what your thoughts on hopping New England IPA is where the hops are typically in the fermentor for seven days to 9? I think it’s important to have those hops during the bio transformation and it’s never lead to any grassy flavors even dry hopping afterward not using a bag. I’m a certified Sommelier so I trust my palate but would appreciate your input and your thoughts thank you ! 😎

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I would not suggest dry hopping any style for more than 5 days. You risk hop burn. This will vary from hop to hop though. Personally I stick with this and can still recreate a very authentic NEIPA. The point being that really all we need from the hops is the oil. This will be extracted within 3 days without concern :)

[@wyattalexander4041]

David Heath Homebrew thank you I really appreciate your insight into this! I never knew about this and still experimenting on my sabco so I’m gonna try your suggestion when I can get more brew supplies cheers 🍻

[@dalekirkwood6496]

Great video, the tea infusers seem a good job. Just wondering what options there would be for a conical fermenter so that the sock/bag/infuser doesn't get stuck at the bottom and hinder racking/bottling?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Dale. I use these in my conical with no problems :)

[@dalekirkwood6496]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew right enough, I suppose it will be settling on the trub anyway and be away from the racking arm. Do you ever do multiple dry hops in the conical and then need to bring the hops back out? Wondering how you would get them out safely again without contamination

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, I guess it could happen but ive not had it in some years of constant use. Ive tried all manner of dry hop schedules and these days opt for dry hopping when the FG is 5-10 points away. I find that this works out very well and then there is no need to remove dry hops. In the past I used fishing line then was secured by the closed lid and then tied. Its pretty thin and yet tough, so worked well.

[@dalekirkwood6496]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Great David thanks. I'm bottling a NEIPA this weekend that had one dry hop for 3 days before going to my brite tank but thinking of doing a double dry hop IPA down the line. Fishing line is a great idea 👍 I might look at making a float as well but would mean more to sanitise.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, as long as you keep it clean, santiary and avoid splashing then all will be good :)

[@indiekiduk]

I'm very sensitive to the phenolic grassy woody taste (I know not everyone can taste it) so trying to eliminate it. I've heard that removing the yeast/trub before dry-hopping and removing the dry-hops before cold-crashing help stop the beer flavour becoming phenolic. Theory is yeast clings to hops and makes really bad flavours. And the more phenolic compounds are released from hops at lower temps. So yeast plus cold temps is the worst of the worst.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes the methods you mention are thought to work but also the time you dry hop for is also a consideration. 2-3 days dry hop contact time is enough, so stick with this to minimalise too. I hope this helps :)

[@markwest3150]

Wondering if you worked out if cold crashing was the culprit to phenolics? I think I will try this. I use sous vide magnets to move the hops bag around in the fermenter so I never have to open it

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Its worth a try at your end.

[@DanVazz86]

Hi David! I wanted to ask you, how much weight do you need to sink maybe 100g - 150g in a keg?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

If you use a hop container for kegs then you will not need any extra weight.

[@JulianLane]

Hi David, Many thanks for the video. I normally do a diacetyl rest at 23 degrees C for a couple of days, and then I cold crash before kegging. I'm doing a session American IPA. Should I add the dry hops BEFORE I increase the temperature for the diacetyl rest, or AFTER? I know that you have said the ideal temperature for dry hopping is 14-20 C, so should I add the hops before or after the diacetyl rest? Many thanks in advance.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Usually I add the hops before starting to raise temps but they are present during the raise.

[@JulianLane]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew many thanks.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

:)

[@paskrell]

I’m wondering if you are dry hopping - do you consider iBU for amount? If you have a 6% vs a 12% hop are you using the double amount of the 6%? Or a good amount no matter what?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

There are differing opinions on this these days. Traditionally, no :) The bitterness is considered something that will fade. This has been my experience.

[@nguyenngoc8896]

I used Fermenter with Spiral Air Lock and Beer Tap. My friend, who taught me to brew my first batch of beer, said that after 6 days of brewing, it is possible to dry hop. By opening the lid of the fermenter barrel and dropping the hops directly inside and closing the fermenter cap. Is this correct or not? Will the oxygen in it damage it? He said that's how he used to do it.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

As long as you do not splash and introduce oxygen then all is good.

[@luwn00bz]

4:24 I would've really wanted to know what kind of effects I can expect from hopping for a shorter or longer amount? Will the more volatile aromas fade in longer times or will they get absorbed more into the beer?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Research has now shown that ideally dry hopping for 3 days is enough. Time after this is pointless as the hop oils have been released. After this point the remaining vegetable matter has potential to create off flavours that can over time fade but prolonged time will result in permanent off flavours.

[@david_ash]

thank you for the quick response. learning a lot from you.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear :)

[@mattharris2018]

Hi. Thanks for sharing your wealth of experience. I have recently had an IPA and an APA that have had rather a lot of hops in them (mainly dry hops) but have resulted in little hop taste or aroma in the finished beer. I’m confused as to why as others have been the complete opposite and I can see no discernible difference in my process. Any ideas as to the drastically different results? Cheers.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Matt. There are various factors here that could have an influence. Your waters chemistry and the age/freshness of your hops probably being the main influencers.

[@mattharris2018]

That's why I'm confused. I have taken into account my water chemistry and compensated by adding Calcium Sulphate and Magnesium Sulphate to try and achieve a 2/1 sulphate/chloride ratio conducive to hop forward beers. (and to assist lowering the pH) I made sure pH was in the desired range in the mash, sparge and boil. chlorine

[@mattharris2018]

Sorry something odd happened there and I lost half of what I was saying. I suspect the council have been putting chlorine in the water but I use a fine carbon block filter for my brewing water. I am also very careful with my hop storage. The hops were bought vacuum sealed and frozen and I store them the same way. The hops were Eldorado and Nectaron which is grown locally here In Nelson, New Zealand so cant get much more fresh.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hmm, what about the hops?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Ok. This does seem odd but hopefully it will not happen again!

[@danielebarnabo43]

Hey David, how do you filter your beer to avoid all the particles getting in your bottle?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I seldom filter beer. Cold crashing will make everything drop down as will clearing agents. Check this one out:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqjXe6d4ds9oq7s

[@danielebarnabo43]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you ❤

[@operaandsuch]

What is the brand/model of the stainless steel tea steepers? Can you provide an amazon link?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Sorry but they are unbranded. I got them on ebay some time back. Search for large tea ball /strainer and you will see examples.

[@festinger3]

www.ebay.co.uk/p/Professional-Stainless-Steel-Food-Rice-Sushi-13cm-Mould-Ball-Bowl-Cooker-Cooking/5021219322?iid=283043246197&chn=ps Sometimes rice cooker balls can be good.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Not best flow with those. This is what I am using pretty much :- rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113116825632

[@chrisgeorge8408]

Do you have a link for the tea infusers or recommended tea Infuser?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Chris, the links keep changing but here is one I just found:- rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123698472149

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Go with the large size

[@Meirion658]

Hi David can I just clarify a few things as I have watched the video and read the comments and confused myself! After adding the hops and leaving them to dry hop for 3-4 days in the primary FV how do you remove the hops to cold crash and clear prior to bottling? Do you 1. Cold crash with hops in? 2. Remove wort to secondry FV then cold crash ? I tend to batch prime so I would have then move to a bottling bucket. 3. Fish the dry hop container out? Thanks

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Meirion, Here are some answers for you:- 1) I remove the hops before cold crashing 2) I generally cold crash in keg but if I am bottling then I use the fermenter, no need to transfer first. 3) Yes I remove it, though at these temperatures you could leave it in...it will not do any harm. Hope this helps :)

[@Meirion658]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you for the quick reply i appreciate it. You are a fountain of knowledge. I have just purchased the stainless Steel strainers. Last question honestly!! How do you fish them out?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No problem, ask as many questions as you like :) Usually, I will add string to the container and use this. If not then a cleaned and sanitised paddle can fish it out. Mostly though I simply transfer into a keg leaving the dry hop container behind.

[@carmighinsberg5402]

Hi David, thank you for this nice video. I am using a sack for dry hop and considering to use a tea infuser. Considering this video was released 6 years ago, are you still using these for dry hop? what is the size of your tea infuser? I saw different sizes online and would like to get the right size... Thank you, Carmi.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, Yes I still use the tea infusers. I suggest obtaining the largest ones you can find. Ali Express has some large sized options that are cheap.

[@carmighinsberg5402]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Do you think that 8cm hight and 8cm diameter is big enough?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Sounds good to me

[@chrisladyman7147]

When you said a short time dry hopping, does this include cold crashing, i cold crash 5-7 days do you include this time for dry hoppinh

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Chris Ladyman When you lower the temps this low the usual effects are slowed greatly, so no, those days do not count :)

[@chrisladyman7147]

Thanks for your reply

[@ferrangrau8392]

What about Temperature during the dry hopping and time period?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Ferrish Some will tell you 14 deg c is optimal. In my tests I have found little difference in homebrew batches. Your beers fermentation temp will work just fine.

[@jonathanbrunyee8780]

Can you dry hop while cold crashing before bottling?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Jonathan Brunyee You can but it will result in a muted taste from the hops. Ideally 14 deg c to fermentation temps will give the best results.