FORD TRUCK NOT CHARGING TRAILER! WTF!

[@cathie5519]

I read something to in my camper trailer manual about connecting directly to the alternator to charge the trailer battery directly when driving.

[@notme5909]

Good stuff.. it is possible that the fuse blows when the trailer pump is running picking up a heavy load that it draws too much current and blows the fuse.. try to use it with the truck turned off so it doesn't pass power through the plug while the pump runs...

[@KratomSyndicate]

find a solar panel that fits the lid without sticking out of that box and mount it add a small charge controller and should be enough to keep battery always ready, did this on my travel trailer never have an issue. Also the hands down best charger to bring batteries back to life, lead acid, agm, is by using an optimate battery charger. I have brought back batteries from the grave with it.

[@ronaldvanheusden6414]

my 2019 has no power until you start driving the truck has to be hooked to the 7 pin and it charges when driving. if i check with a meter no power. i found a video on youtube explaning it my travel trailer gets charged when i drive but i wont charge if just pluged in. video is DS TRUCKS explaning it

[@proudtexan5513]

Would love to see what solution you find to fix the battery issue on trailer

[@paulrodrigues9603]

Sean there is a couple of things I could suggest. One is a tow truck type of jumper cable. Positive wire connects right to the battery. Then it goes through a 50A circuit breaker. It then continues along the frame to the rear bumper. You can either weld a stud to the frame or bolt the ground lead to the frame in the rear. Bolt the truck side of the connector to the rear bumper. Keep the jumper cable end either the trailer toolbox or the cross over box in the truck. Use the jumps to jump the battery on the trailer.

[@Potrvlb]

Nice suggestion. I’m going to look in,to that for my trucks and dumpers. We also run F-350’s and like dump style trailers but have the exact same problem he is. At our dump over here in Oregon City, Oregon they keep those portable battery jumper boxes for us contractors to use as this is a very common problem and you wind up stuck with the dump fully up with no juice to lower it. I was using the CAT jumper box that Costco sells but I think I accidentally threw the dang thing away. I never thought of your suggestion but damn that would solve all the problems on all the trucks. Now to research it to find out how much it will cost me………….thanks for your input/suggestion. Victor in Oregon.

[@mattgreen9876]

This same thing has happened to me before as well at the dump. We used a Milwaukee battery and connected it to the trailer battery and got it to dump so we didn’t have to unload by hand.

[@randallweaver7034]

I suggest letting the trailer wires and truck wires as it is from factory, install a #6 cable from truck battery to rear bumper, install a Anderson SB120 or SB175 plug at rear bumper. Install short #6 cables and Anderson plug on trailer battery. You will need a 100-125 amp 12V breaker at truck battery and trailer battery. Ideally (not required) you would install a 200 amp diode near truck battery to prevent issues in the event truck battery fails when connected to trailer - I use a relay instead of diode for several reasons but it takes more time to install. The above solution should work great unless you connect truck to dead trailer battery and attempt to operate the dump within 30 minutes. To allow for removal of the trailer battery and still operate the dump, you will need 2/0 cable, 300 amp breaker and Anderson SB350 plug. This costs much more and install takes longer. I typically install a small solar charger on toolbox lid to maintain battery.

[@enz6312]

I'm pretty PO'ed about your dilemma. There is no way you should have to run another feeder line to the 7 way especially based on the price of the truck. That 12v feed should ALWAYS be hot no matter what the "computer" says. They were that way for 30 years prior. Another example of complicating a simple process in the name of progress....Is there any way the computer is supposed to inform you that the 12v feed is not working...i bet not...

[@proudtexan5513]

Maybe ask the Trailer dealer the best way to get constant power from the truck to the trailer battery all the time…they should know best solution.

[@proudtexan5513]

I would keep a Battery Tender on that trailer battery 100% of the time when trailer is I storage…just sayin

[@cubandiesel626]

Very helpful video thanks for sharing with us

[@paulrodrigues9603]

The other thing is just run a wire set (protected) from the battery to a plug mounted at the rear bumper of the truck. Run a lead from the trailer to the trailer tongue area. Plug this wire into the truck for constant 12V power. This is what someone with an electric boat trailer winch would do. The wire would be in the 8 -10 ga range. I DM'ed you pictures of the actual kits that I am talking about.

[@daddydiesel5889]

A-Rod find a solution to the problem?

[@bradbk1699]

XL's and XLT's don't always come with the relay that you need in the fuse box of the truck. Get the relay and it should work. Good luck!

[@DS-TRUCKS]

Had fuse, didn't check for the relay 🤔

[@KipOConnell]

@@DS-TRUCKS Even some Silverados put the relay in a bag in the glove compartment. I could never figure out why. I guess they're worried about a high amperage 12v pin just hanging around. Also, I have heard the newer Fords sense draw on the trailer connection and then send power over the charging pin. So, you may not get any power just using a tester on the connector.

[@captaintex1508]

Would this cause any issues with your truck starting also? Anytime I plug my camper in the truck sounds like it has issues turning over.

[@ronewen5034]

Folks, would like to add a few comments/suggestions. 2018 F 150 XLT, 2020 FR Wolf Pup 16 FQ., GE 12 v refrigerator. Last few times out we arrivered at our destination and the refer was warm and the RV battery was downt to ~10.5 vdc. Hook up to shore power all is well. Get home and we get the same scenario, warm frig, low battery. Tow vehicle is not charging the RV. Checked the frig for high current draw, all readings are within specified operating range. Checked onboard converter, all good. Have read most all of your comments and suggestions, have checked for the proper fuses and relays, all A OK. From your discussions I realized I must check for 12 vdc at the trailer connector. Still no 12 vdc at the connection. Disconnected the RV battery, connected Volt meter to battery cable, connected RV cable to tow vehicle, started tow vehicle, monitored volt meter ~2 to 3 volts ???. Tow Vehicle is equipped with on board check list to go through all the checks we all do out of habit. Low and behold after going through the checklist I now have power at the trailer connetion, refer runs fine, RV battery now charging. Going through the checklist turns on the 12 vdc switch. AND had to move the tow vehicle a few inches to complete activation. Hope this helps. R

[@aronk7412]

Hello. I’m having the same issues with my RV. I’m not following your post on what you did to correct the issue. Apologize if I am missing something but would appreciate any addl info you could share. 2018 f150 XLT also

[@ronewen5034]

@@aronk7412 ok, after connecting the RV to the tow vehicle (2018 F150) look at the dashboard. It should ask "is the trailer connected" answer YES. Then follow thru the checklist provided on the dashboard, lites?, yes, Chains connected? , yes . ETC. after going through the checklist the 12 vdc circuit on the seven pin connector should now be active. If your RV has a solar panel connection heres an easy way to verify you are getting 12 vdc from the tow vehicle. Test the voltage at the solar connection before and after. When the tow vehivle is proving current to the RV the solar connection will read 13.5 vdc. Hope this helps. R

[@aronk7412]

@@ronewen5034- thank you for the info. I’ve seen the trailer connected question asked and answered yes. Never seen addl questions. Are u saying I need lights on? If are running lights ok? I do have solar. Appreciate the information. Did you have to add a fuse or relay in the truck?

[@ronewen5034]

@@aronk7412 Q1. TOW vehicle lights do not need to be on. Q2. My 2018 F150 is an early model and did not come with a factory Trailer Brake Control module. In addition to not having the factory installed TBC module, the fuse block was not populated to accomodate the required 30 amp fuse for a TBC module. I added a fused wire from the battery to the aftermarket TBC module. This has nothing to do with the 12 vdc reqired to operate the RV ie: charging the battery, running a refrigerator etc. You might want to read what E-Trailer's comments are regarding the 12 volt issue with F150s. They claim that just depressiing the brake pedal for 3 seconds will activate the 12 vdc pin. I have not tried that procedure nor do I believe that solution will work on my vehicle. Once again thanks for reaching out and safe travels. R

[@aronk7412]

@@ronewen5034- appreciate all your info. in Michigan and trailer is in storage till April or May. Previously I would get a msg is trailer hocked up so something like that. I would answer yes and move on. Today I was playing around and saw a trailer menu. Looks like it asks several questions. Never say this b4. Hopefully this will be my issue. Thanks again!!!!

[@StephenF.]

When batteries get excessively low, they require a TON of power to start charging again. That little tender isn't going to do anything at 2A. Spend the money on a proper 6-10A noco charger. myself, and friends run Noco on our boats and they do great, one of my boats does have a constant draw with some lights that never turn off. As far as the fuse blowing, I'd look for issues other than your charging circuit. 30A is a lot for charging a battery. There's something else going on. chafed wire, crossed wire, wet connector, or possibly trying to charge a DEAD battery is what's causing too much draw through that fuse. I'd lean towards the dead battery. Replace the fuse, and charger, and keep that battery properly charged at all times. I like the comment below about running the dump possibly blowing the fuse, I'll have to check my fuse, but I bet if you keep that battery topped off, it stops being an issue. I've been using my dump trailer so much lately, that I haven't had it hooked up to an extension cord at all, and the battery meter still reads full.

[@DS-TRUCKS]

You are right. I'm finding an issue with the ground circuit on the trailer side. Also, the wiring is too thin on the trailer side

[@Shonuff42080]

Yo I'm from Michigan!