DUCATI 900ss Supersport Rebuild - Motorcycle Project : Bike Build : Ep 19 Seized Adjuster Bolts

Sorry guys.... more crankcase cleaning. They are spotless and ready for the new bearings to be installed. The swingarm had a quick scrub up and also the two adjuster bolts from hell were removed. I really did think that they would be a job for a machinist ... but I got em out !!
Anyway I hope you like the upload and will see ya next week !!
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[@darylmorse]

Well done getting those bolts out. Lesser mortals would have given up or broken them. This was a great lesson in patience and perseverance!

[@turbobike749]

Cheers Daryl. They were in there for the long haul. Soo happy I got them out !!

[@johnstewart1635]

I tried something different recently on a seized top shock mount. I could not use heat due to surrounding plastics and the proximity of the petrol tank. If heat was off the menu I reasoned that extreme cold might do the same job. I had used a freezing spray in the past to temporarily freeze some plumbing to avoid having to drain down my central heating system. I discovered that the blokes that make that product were way ahead of me and now do a spray can which does the freezing and contains some penetrating fluid. It worked a treat on my stubborn bolt which had resisted every spray, tool and hammer in my collection. Half a tin and a minutes pause and the bolt practically fell out. Sold here as Arctic Crack It shock release spray. I am sure there will be an Australian version. Loving the series. I have my 900ss in bits at the moment so I am following closely.

[@turbobike749]

Thanks for that John.When I used the oven to heat cases and then also hit bearings with the Freeze spray something magical sure does happen. Its soo good when you find a great product that solves major issues isn't it. I will also keep an eye out for your recommended stuff locally.

[@robrockatansky5905]

Lots of patience and talent. Dig the music too.

[@turbobike749]

Thank you Rob. Cheers mate.

[@ronzelina6682]

Those chain adj' bolts were a biartch Todd, impressed with the persistance you gave the job. Snapping them is SNAFU, a machinist nightmare. As some mentioned WD40 is a water dispersing agent, NASA needed it for the Appolo missions on the 40th try bingo it worked! Penetrine you should be able to get at the bearing suppliers, perhaps Freo if not down your way , yellow bottle / red squeezey cap. Old gun cleaning trick was "Ed's Red", 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid (ATF ) it was a decent penetrating fluid on the DE's I served on. ISFAIK the forks on the old bikes used to use ATF in some instances so I guess old fork oil will suffice, mixed with acetone. Next time heat the bolt ( without heating the surrounding part) drown in penetrating fluid and let it cool. Hopefuly as it cools off it will suck the fliud in. The swingarn is prone to cracks so take a good magnifying glass peak at the welds, normally chain side. IMHO grab a sisal and a calico buffing wheel for that bench grinder of yours, green and then white polishing compound bars. The small scratches will 'buff out' but that gouge will need some ally Tig. I thought the swing arms where just clear coated, mine was polished by the PO, 😎 BLING !!! Monday there's a small package heading your way, a handy trick to sealing those cases inside, try it once and you wont go back. 🤘

[@turbobike749]

Hi Ron. Thanks for the comment and great information mate. The WD40 definitely wasn't the go. The oil worked way better,, and someone here mentioned a funnel made of Plasticine.... what a great idea ! I will invest in some better spray lubricant for these jobs........ A Prezzy............. AWESOME !!! And thanks heaps !

[@pauls6157]

Good job in removing those adjusters, it’s annoying that even to this day some folk are not using anti seize compound (copaslip) It’s a couple of quid for a tube and lasts for years. Keep up the good work 👍🏍🇬🇧

[@turbobike749]

I think with this bike it just wasn't adjusted for 150 years and they got stuck as. We always use copper coat on them to help the next poor bugger have some hope of being able to adjust them easily. Cheers Paul

[@davepaulagaunt1975]

Great perseverance Todd, job well done. 👍

[@turbobike749]

I once learnt on a Honda Four Dave,,, you need to take a second to make a good game plan and not just rush into it :) Hahaa

[@davepaulagaunt1975]

@@turbobike749 Practice makes perfect mate! 😂 When for a spin on the old girl this arvo, super enjoyable & comfortable. Running like a dream! 👌

[@gremanfries]

I was on the edge of my seat that whole time, cannot believe you got them both! Thanks for the great videos and the helpful hints, def going to check on my adjusting bolts. Cheers mate!!!!

[@turbobike749]

Cheers for the comments Petey ! I was soo relieved to get them out too. They were stuck solid. I dodged a bullet for sure.

[@veronicaisl]

Nice work mate. You did service my Ducati 659 last September and you teach me how to clean and greased the chain properly. Top bloke and full of knowledge with Ducati bike. I’m sedfrey from Busselton. I might come down there next week if im not busy.

[@turbobike749]

Thanks for the nice comment mate. See ya when the time comes. 👍👍

[@redplats]

Wurth Rost off Black - works a treat on those seized up fasteners.

[@turbobike749]

Wurth do make some great products. Cheers mate for the comment too.

[@tristandejonge1534]

Red wurth scotch-brite and WD-40 works a treat to bringing a brushed finish back! Just keep your strokes in the same direction :)

[@turbobike749]

Thanks for the good info Tristan. I may need to have a experiment with these to get the look I need hey.

[@thediddly]

Agreed, scouring pads after a hit with the (curved fine) file to remove the high spots of gouging. A mate with a welder would be real handy but considerably more work, otherwise a sanding block backed by a block of timber, coarse grit to fine grit. I'm thinking this MAY be better than the scotch Brite is as usually it's intuition our to use it in your hand due to thickness of it vs the sandpaper. And yes lube it when you brush it and in the direction you want it to be as you will see it forever. I also recommend clear coating it afterwards (potentially ceramic clear so it doesn't yellow if possible???)

[@JimBiddle.]

As others have said, mega job you did to rescue that swingarm, I wish I had you patience! Could you use one of those allumi weld sticks to fill in the dings and dress them back? If you're on REALLY good terms with the wife, dishwashers (the electric appliances, not a nickname for SWMBO) are epic parts cleaners cleaners, just don't leave a mess or you food will have an aftertaste that's distinctly 10w/40.

[@turbobike749]

Hahaaa its a great Idea! I think I would get shot if I use the dishwasher. Cheers Jim.

[@bigdaddy741098]

Omg I'm taking the bolts out of my swingarm asap to prevent that from happening, thanks so much for sharing that 👍👊

[@turbobike749]

Grease them up and they will be great for decades to come !

[@MJP3055]

Those bolts were real buggers

[@turbobike749]

Soo painfull and I feel lucky that they are out. Win for me !

[@Arkaine38]

Hi Turbobike, and nice work so far for this great 900 SS. Concerning the swing arm and regarding the great work and quality level you already achieve, I would advise to sandblast it, filling and sanding the dents in order to have a nice finish. Moreover, as the color you currently see is not the one of the raw aluminium but a painting you will have to ceracote/powder coat it again. The good point is you will be then able to closely inspect the quality of the several welds. It is well know on this swing arm that the welds often crack ! It appeard on mine (1998 900 SSie), almost lost the rear wheel on the motorway... Keep going and cheers from France !!

[@turbobike749]

Sounds like a good idea mate. I will get it blasted and fully inspected. Are they anodized from the factory or is it clear lacquer do you think ?

[@Arkaine38]

@@turbobike749 In my humble opinion, it is not anodized but painted/clear coated. Anodized parts are for instance the fork caps and they have not at all the same aspect. But I am unfortunately not enough skilled in this sector ! Cheers ;)

[@gregcrowhurst3185]

Hi todd.I thought mine was anodised before i started grinding mine down last week.I now think it was a clear coat laquer of some sort that is now all gone on mine

[@joepgrooten2108]

Big lessons learned that with patience you will get the job done! Thanks for that lesson. In the past I snapped mine off and had to insert helicoils. You did a so much better job

[@turbobike749]

Cheers Joep. These felt like they would snap at any time. Soo happy they are out and I appeared to know what I was doing. Hahaa ;)

[@stevesanelli90]

It pays to be patient when doing these restorations. You have it in spades! I’d go with a polished swing arm. I’ve seen it before & looks great. Not original, but a lot better than pitted aluminium. Super effort Turbobike!🥇💯👍 Always waiting for the next instalment no matter how long it takes. Patience is a virtue for those that wait

[@turbobike749]

Cheers Steve ! The cleaning of the cases felt a bit long winded but it had to be done perfectly. I celebrated a bit early in my head when I got that first adjuster bolt out.....totally forgot there was a second one that could give me grief for some reason. And it was harder to remove than the first one I got out. Very happy that's over.

[@mikeanthony9592]

I am halfway through removing the chain adjusters. Got the chain side out but the brake side is only moving a fraction of a turn. I managed to remove the steel insert on the inside that the brake caliper mounting slides upon. At that point you can actually see the corroded end of the adjuster poking through the solid aluminium fork end. So now the arm is clamped in the vice with that part flooded with WD40. Fingers crossed for tomorrow's attempt.

[@turbobike749]

I think get a good penatrant. A great su subscriber sent me some stuff called mouse milk. Wd40 and heat wasn't the go. Take your time mate and good luck . Hope you get them out

[@Shinysideup]

Got to be happy with that result Awesome job with the chain adjuster bolts, the patience of a saint. that would have driven me mad lol.

[@turbobike749]

Thankyou Ian. It took me over 2.5hrs to get both of the bolts out. But I got em out !!

[@mikeopenshaw9128]

Great perseverance with that chain adjuster bolt - a pleasure to watch - especially as I would be on my way to drilling out the snapped off bolt by now! ;0) Thanks as always for sharing!

[@turbobike749]

Thanks Mike. There was a lot of moments I was sure this was never ever coming out.

[@Designer_Opine]

I’ve used a USA product called Liquid Wrench with about 2-5 minutes pause between attempts and moderate tapping against the stubborn bolt head with socket and mallet. Full disclosure; I’m not a trained mechanic. This clip is Designer approved.

[@turbobike749]

Liquid wrench ! Sounds like it should work too :) Thanks mate see ya next upload !

[@richardhorton25]

In my experience 50% acetone 50% diesel makes a much better penetrating oil than WD40, make a funnel/cup out of plasticine (or similar) and fill the cup with the solution and leave overnight

[@turbobike749]

Brilliant !!! (funnel/cup out of plasticine)

[@jameswrigley3296]

Amazing patience. I would have bought a new swing arm 😄

[@Radioactive_Slime]

I hear you man!

[@turbobike749]

So glad to get those bolts out !!

[@turbobike749]

I was thinking at any point it was going to turn pear shaped and become more of a nightmare..

[@frazersutton3828]

You need to get some Mouse Milk penetrating oil we use it in the aviation industry, its better than anything you get in the auto shop.

[@turbobike749]

Thanks for the comment Frazer. Somehow I have heard of this product and had forgotten about it. Pretty good stuff hey.

[@frazersutton3828]

@@turbobike749 Yes mate it’s the best around.

[@johnlight4546]

I’d have lost my mind doing that

[@turbobike749]

Thanks John I almost did mate .... I had to sit through 2.75hrs of footage and re live it !!

[@geoffrossi]

Wow.. What a pain! Good job getting them out... Where can I buy that silkolene pro prep stuff? I've tried a few places in Perth but no joy

[@turbobike749]

Hi Geoff. It comes from a motorcycle wholesale mob in Belmont called motobitz. [phone] .. owned by a nice bloke called Mal. Give him a buzz and see who in Perth sells it for him or if he will directly sell you a can of it.

[@geoffrossi]

@@turbobike749 thanks Todd.

[@bigdaddy741098]

Only a few minutes in but I was just wondering if there would ever be a reason to vapor blast any of the inside surfaces of the engine cases, or would that do damage?

[@turbobike749]

I have seen the insides of some of the other customers engine parts done. It does make the parts like new. But I thought the less of this sort of stuff going around inside the better. Its so fine and gets trapped everywhere. Looks brilliant but.

[@axeman6560]

i snapped my adjuster bolts off , they wernt coming out. had to drill them out oversize long drill bits and went oversize to 8 millimeter tapped them out job done. painfull experience.

[@JasonSimonSmith]

Yeah.. wow.. shit.. that was harrowing to watch.. and then those aluminum arms can be a total flippin' heartbreaker .. They can fail and crack.. the one on mine suffered: - a frozen/broken brake arm stay bolt.. fixed - but then there was a loose chunk in the arm forever - - then it stress fractured/cracked on left side near engine mount/weld point - - had it repaired by reputable shop - - then that repair failed.. After that, was like life F* it.. (?) - decent EBay replacement [aluminum] arm = $450-550 USD (and it could just break again ?) - decent steel [EBay] arm from a lesser model = $60-120 USD (invincible (?) - but definitely not sexy) - then the grail arm is from a 1000DS; Aluminum & beefy - but sadly quite (?) heavier next to that original aluminum arm - then worse because those arms are ~$800-1200 USD last I searched.. if you can find one.. I broke down and: - bought/cleaned up & mounted a cheap/strong (non-sexy) steel arm to keep me on (works fine honestly) .. then - bought a 1000DS Japanese market arm ~3 years ago for ~$800 USD - that I'm hoarding for next "refurbish/upgrade" cycle on the bike.. I vote rock the one you have without throwing another cent or too much time at it. F* it. Like yeah - but to a large extent - it's so totally going to get grimy again in short order..

[@turbobike749]

Its in pretty good condition just a few minor marks. I will still run it but I want it to look the best I can. Glad yours is sorted to Jason. Hell of a story mate.

[@mickducati1947]

😜👍

[@turbobike749]

Still making progress Mick

[@Dave-hs3xf]

How much degreaser, brake fluid cleaner, carby cleaner, etc do you go through..you've been at this awhile so do you reckon they are as good as in years gone by ..I don't ..you get far less for your money now (relatively speaking) ....haha more metalic roast coming up

[@turbobike749]

Hi Dave, I think all the stuff still works pretty good. I use this solvent stuff RECOSOL R55 and its in a 20ltr drum. About $150 but it works well. Also I can sneak some into the missus vodka so it can save me money in that department :)

[@MJP3055]

Are you available for rebuilds?? I live in So. Calif.

[@turbobike749]

Nah sorry mate. I'm in Australia !

[@Da5idc]

WD40 is not a penetrating oil - it's main use is water displacement (that's what the WD means). A proper specialist product would have done a much better job In fact the people that make WD40 actually make a penetrating oil

[@turbobike749]

Cheers for the comment . I really feel like I done a nice bit learning with this bolt removal. The oil was soo much better than WD40 ! I was going to use this Silkolene product called Silkopen ,,It has graphite in it I'm pretty sure. Its a great lubricant. Glad they are out is an understatement ....

[@olderrol]

Hi Brad, Didn’t wanna put this as a comment after watching the last KZbin vid of the swing arm adjuster bolt issues coz I don’t wanna sound like a smart arse and you....... not so smart, if yah know what I mean. Actually it’s got nothing to do with the swing arm but rather the little MAP gas torch. So, unlike an oxy acet flame, where the hottest part of the flame is the little white “feather”, as we’d call it, right next to the tip of the torch, the hottest part of the flame with propane and LPG is just outside the little blue feather. I guess that means if you want maximum heat from your propane, or MAP gas just hold the torch back far enough so the feather is not in contact with what your heating. Geez that was a very long winded lot of waffle! Besides all that you doin’ a fantastic job. Keep it up. Just wish it didn’t take a week for the next episode. Cheers, Old Errol. Oh just thought of something else. I know from my fitting days giving a tight bolt a bit of a tap on the head can break up rust. Since this is ali we’re talking about here I’m not so sure the results would be the same but yah never know till yah hava go. Well so they say.

[@chriswalters3562]

How long did the whole process take ? 🙂

[@turbobike749]

I think I took over 2 hrs to remove both those bolt. I was waiting for it to turn into nightmare at any point. Very happy but Chris to get them out and sitting on the bench. Survived it !

[@chriswalters3562]

@@turbobike749 1hr each bolt, you did well.🙂. @ducati_eight_three