DUCK DIVE VS BAILING BOARD EXPLAINED HOW, WHEN, WHERE

  Рет қаралды 476,437

Nathan Florence

Nathan Florence

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 817
@NathanFlorence
@NathanFlorence 4 жыл бұрын
Guys thanks for all the feedback and stoked you are learning a few things!! Here is what ill do, many of you posted comments asking about breakdowns of different scenarios, look thru the comments, like the one you want to here about, most liked comment on info question ill answer and breakdown in the next video!
@kandyfelton4963
@kandyfelton4963 4 жыл бұрын
Really like these informative videos, super helpful. I really think you should do more of them. Thanks, Nathan! 🤙💙
@fishmemmo
@fishmemmo 4 жыл бұрын
Your videos are unbelievable helpful and I saw thousands of them! You bring so many details!!
@dadthelad
@dadthelad 3 жыл бұрын
I'd super love to see you post the board models, volumes, and dims, and your body weight in each vid. Would be nice to be able to calibrate how you're thinking about boards for each session.
@DJ_JMIZZEL
@DJ_JMIZZEL 2 жыл бұрын
Always learning something new ;)
@magnetmountain33
@magnetmountain33 2 жыл бұрын
Dude this is awesome brother thank you so much
@fulltang1
@fulltang1 4 жыл бұрын
Please do a tips and techniques series, seriously helpful!
@kylewattssurfing3266
@kylewattssurfing3266 4 жыл бұрын
Yes yes I agree 1 trillion %
@matthudson4136
@matthudson4136 4 жыл бұрын
Absolutely
@universalperspective
@universalperspective 4 жыл бұрын
We are so lucky he does this for free. Even if he does get paid in views, we're getting free in depth surf lessons from a world class professional.
@georgepap3613
@georgepap3613 4 жыл бұрын
would be sick!
@aarongrady7354
@aarongrady7354 4 жыл бұрын
universalperspective common sense really
@emick3326
@emick3326 4 жыл бұрын
As a beginner I used to watch so many how to duckdive videos which didn't help at all other than learning the movement. Now that I'm a confident duck diver I've learned most these things you talk about through trial and error and trust me when I say that this video is hands down the best duck diver theory video out there
@AimeeNolte
@AimeeNolte 4 жыл бұрын
You talk about everything in such a good way. You’re really good at making people envision the exact situation and explaining just what to do. That’s a talent. You’re a great surfer and a great teacher. Thank you!
@kandyfelton4963
@kandyfelton4963 4 жыл бұрын
Agree 💯
@TOADLINERACING
@TOADLINERACING 3 жыл бұрын
aimee and nathan sitting in a tree k.i.s.s.i.n.g first comes love then comes marriage then the baby and baby carriage
@LiebenMusik
@LiebenMusik 4 жыл бұрын
I'm enjoying the story telling vibe. Super engaging and just feels like you're having a casual chat - no ego no fluff just straight up genuine content.
@bobbyswain1983
@bobbyswain1983 4 жыл бұрын
So true!.
@jamesdalecopeland2719
@jamesdalecopeland2719 4 жыл бұрын
Bro do a maneuver series! Would be sick to hear your technique! Us mere mortals need all the help we can get.
@nicklund5211
@nicklund5211 4 жыл бұрын
Trueeee
@enzo3440
@enzo3440 4 жыл бұрын
Tips on catching waves and wave reading, left, right, close outs, when to start paddling, when you’re screwed. Moving from kite surfing to surfing, I find this to be the hardest part.
@NathanFlorence
@NathanFlorence 4 жыл бұрын
enzo3440 thats rad man
@universalperspective
@universalperspective 4 жыл бұрын
You would be amazed at how many surfers young and old have never been educated on this vital aspect of surfing before. I truly think this video is going to have influence on energy expended in the water and overall awareness and safety for those who watch. The way you explain with science and firsthand experience is a huge blessing. This is essentially one of those masterclass lessons people pay for but for free...Who knew you were an amazing TEACHER as well as pro surfer / fitness guru / etc. Thanks for being such a great role model all around.
@jimmer3663
@jimmer3663 4 жыл бұрын
Your literally one of the best surfers, I don't understand why you haven't got millions of subs!
@hitcho5812
@hitcho5812 4 жыл бұрын
@John Dunbar is he actually? i couldn't tell, i just watch his surfing 😂
@gusreece4713
@gusreece4713 4 жыл бұрын
@@hitcho5812 he has a gf
@0356danmcc
@0356danmcc 4 жыл бұрын
#1 surfer this year
@gucape
@gucape 4 жыл бұрын
Is up to us to spread his nice videos!
@singlefin7768
@singlefin7768 4 жыл бұрын
John Dunbar and you’re commenting on his channel 🤣🤣🤣 stop stalking ya creep haha
@pickleforknwiggles634
@pickleforknwiggles634 4 жыл бұрын
Never make the mistake of doing a pushup challenge before charging big pipe.
@NathanFlorence
@NathanFlorence 4 жыл бұрын
pickle fork N wiggles hahaha never!
@GiuseppeGaribaldi46664
@GiuseppeGaribaldi46664 4 жыл бұрын
Nathan Florence Listen to Pickles, he’s onto something here
@shandoe7gw867
@shandoe7gw867 4 жыл бұрын
Lmao!!
@jerrypfau5647
@jerrypfau5647 4 жыл бұрын
Somebody send Nate some art for his walls.
@pano-rific8838
@pano-rific8838 4 жыл бұрын
I'll get right on that soon. I do Big panoramas. Stay tuned. Hit me up bro.
@alanmagee81
@alanmagee81 4 жыл бұрын
The only wall he's interested in is the one where the window let's him view the swell! Maybe!
@PaulOReilly712
@PaulOReilly712 3 жыл бұрын
The light switch kinda breaks up the blandness of the wall behind him! We know he has faced hell many times but has the confidence to use his skills to beat whatever the ocean throws at him! stay safe Mighty one of the sea!
@legendfilms6185
@legendfilms6185 3 жыл бұрын
lol good one
@xyzct
@xyzct 4 жыл бұрын
This also applies to dealing with women.
@NathanFlorence
@NathanFlorence 4 жыл бұрын
xyzct hahahaha if she is apexing on you bail bail bail
@TheNateml
@TheNateml 4 жыл бұрын
definitely bail if it's lip to head
@c.1211
@c.1211 4 жыл бұрын
I take my redpills before I duck dive any female and wave. Coach Greg Adams, a must see channel.
@xyzct
@xyzct 4 жыл бұрын
@@c.1211, Coach is AWESOME! And that brother has been getting better and better with every video. Every guy should watch him.
@c.1211
@c.1211 4 жыл бұрын
@@xyzct oh yeah, I agree. 👍😃
@KevinPomplun
@KevinPomplun 3 жыл бұрын
Best duck diving advice yet! Top 5 tips - default to duck dive, the duck dive scoop, turning your board sideways to surface through boils, on beach breaks finding the pocket five feet before the lip, and opening your eyes on the first set wave to see between plumes and boils, where you can swim to the surface. Thank you for keeping the NS safe and fun!
@Psydo
@Psydo 4 жыл бұрын
major respect for not cutting the video, straight off top. F
@hipsonsogbo
@hipsonsogbo 4 жыл бұрын
Truth
@isuckatgaming7225
@isuckatgaming7225 4 жыл бұрын
We can feel how genuine you are when you try to help out others, love the attitude love the video thank you.
@JairLaird
@JairLaird 4 жыл бұрын
Also, when bailing a big lip on the head, turn your board parallel to the lip-line, as the lip landing along the board is less likely to break the board. If board is perpendicular (at 90 degrees to the lipline) the wave will break across the middle of the board and is more likely to break the board.
@cforce72
@cforce72 4 жыл бұрын
I learned this the hard way about 2 weeks ago
@safetybeachlife
@safetybeachlife 4 жыл бұрын
Good call ! Will remember that tip.
@gcoinhistorian
@gcoinhistorian 4 жыл бұрын
I don't even surf anymore, but wish I had this advice when I was younger. You could be saving lives. It would be cool if duck dive technique was taught. I could never get deep without wave transition in front of me. Even though most of us have never surfed 10 foot plus, your experience on those waves is helpful from a knowledge standpoint. Much respect to you for this information.
@d6anders
@d6anders 4 жыл бұрын
Two questions: 1. What is best technique for bailing in really big water? I see hawaii guys in videos often standing up beforehand are they trying to get board under or some height to dive down? 2. There is this video of your brother duck diving in a pool and staying down to "swim" or frog kick along the bottom kzbin.info/www/bejne/qaSYaZlmoKammsU. Is this functional and do you/he ever use it in the water? Really appreciated this video and the Chopes one. A lot of us don't get opportunities to practice in big water and things like this are valuable for those times when surprise swell comes in. And any time you want to break down techniques you have learned in Aircamp PLEASE DO.
@albertozellner4368
@albertozellner4368 4 жыл бұрын
johns technique only works if your board has no fins on it, so sadly not applicable in normal surfing. notice in the video how his board has no fins
@j3in725
@j3in725 4 жыл бұрын
@@albertozellner4368 He did have fins on, he even mentions hitting them on the bottom of te pool. Here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWrWqn1nqZJ_lbc
@gregpark1359
@gregpark1359 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Nathan. I would love a run down on how to bail whilst in the barrel ... forehand, backhand, large vs. small waves etc. PS, thanks and love the vids
@pyzelphantom4355
@pyzelphantom4355 4 жыл бұрын
This would be insanely helpful
@nicovalenzuela4044
@nicovalenzuela4044 4 жыл бұрын
Just a heads up, he just made the vid🙏
@topherdean1024
@topherdean1024 4 жыл бұрын
I was watching an interview with Slater years ago, and the best thing to do is not bail. Stick with it to the end, but if you do, it's natural to dive forward, I still do sometimes, but he claimed it's better to kick your board forward and fall back, which I have found is less abusive. It's counter intuitive.
@Surfhound
@Surfhound 4 жыл бұрын
Great points. I will duckdive all the time unless a real square board breaker or timing is off. One thing you didn’t mention is paddling back 10 to 15 feet to let initial impact explode and mellow. It has saved me many times. Nice work on blog.
@lavapix
@lavapix 4 жыл бұрын
I duck dive with a big red X on my back. At least that's what it feels like at times. The lip always finds me. My worst injuries were the results of my board getting away from me when getting caught inside. One thing you may have wanted to mention is if you are separated from your board while duck diving as you surface block your face with your arms either crossed or like a boxer. Boards become missiles when returning to you.
@remysteele120
@remysteele120 4 жыл бұрын
Yes that has happened to me and it is not a nciebfeeling
@snakecat586
@snakecat586 3 жыл бұрын
Oh yeah I just cover my face and relax when I get swallowed.
@theyoungupstarts1243
@theyoungupstarts1243 3 жыл бұрын
X marks the spot! A six+ footer broke in front of me at Marine Street La Jolla years ago. When i eventually shot to the surface, my board was above me and i hit it hard with the top of my head. Stars were seen. An impression of my cranium was made. As noted, come up with a hand first. I’m a diver and should have known better, but the holddown was a bit gnarly and i din’t think of it.
@The2SDIOSREIG
@The2SDIOSREIG 4 жыл бұрын
The true purpose of having KZbin here! People would pay for the knowledge and experience you just share. Very encouraging and helpful!!
@Saelenkmith
@Saelenkmith 4 жыл бұрын
My favorite surfing explanation series on KZbin by far
@Luker410
@Luker410 4 жыл бұрын
What a great lesson for guys in big waves, I'm not even believing that there were 78 guys that didn't appreciate this graduate level lesson in big waves. You ought to consider becoming a Navy pilot. You've got more guts than a lot of guys I flew with. I've always thought flying and surfing go together, especially now with foils. Great lesson Nathan, Awesome!
@xyzct
@xyzct 4 жыл бұрын
Nate, you might also include turtle rolling, and "longboard duck diving" (where you tilt the board sideways to push it deeper).
@ashleytrondson7222
@ashleytrondson7222 4 жыл бұрын
I laughed so much when he put everyone’s faces on the ducks hahaha this was some quality content for sure thanks Nathan!
@malsetmal
@malsetmal 4 жыл бұрын
In What minute?
@NathanFlorence
@NathanFlorence 4 жыл бұрын
Ashley Trondson haha thanks man
@jeremybradley559
@jeremybradley559 4 жыл бұрын
What are you on about ?
@oliverchandler1072
@oliverchandler1072 4 жыл бұрын
7:34
@SprintLikeKittel
@SprintLikeKittel 4 жыл бұрын
what a nightmare to go backwards over the falls at Chopes. I'm getting huge chills when you're explaining it. I would die in 2 seconds for sure.
@hazza77
@hazza77 4 жыл бұрын
U can’t hold your breathe for more than 2 seconds?!
@eddyjones9395
@eddyjones9395 4 жыл бұрын
@hazza I don't think erikka would die in 2 secs from not having big lungs, more like die of a heart attack
@SprintLikeKittel
@SprintLikeKittel 4 жыл бұрын
@@eddyjones9395 exactly
@brettroberts1452
@brettroberts1452 3 жыл бұрын
I'm old and don't surf anymore unfortunately..i watch your surfing life and it takes me back to my younger surfing days living on the Aussie Northern NSW Coast..you seem like a nice kid who has been brought up well with family values..my advice is life goes past very quickly so never take it for granted..and everyone bleeds the same colour blood..keep enjoying your very lucky life
@muncy2840
@muncy2840 4 жыл бұрын
We've only had waves big enough in New Smyrna Beach once where we had to bail to get out. Halloween of 91'. But I hope to one day have it again. Thank you for the info bro. You are a true Guru of big surf. Love to watch you charge. Keep them coming
@jfrealestate201
@jfrealestate201 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the breakdown! I don't think one of us will EVER need the teahupoo duck dive but great for novelty purposes
@cultparade2981
@cultparade2981 4 жыл бұрын
Solid tips! ALWAYS GOTTA CONSIDER OTHERS AROUND YOU and that's just general surf etiquette. Legend Mike Stewart had some really interesting insight back in the day regarding the actual wave and how to perceive it that I always thought was super helpful. I've tried to find the more in depth take on it that I read years ago, but all I could find was a quick recap and an image Stewart drew some notes on. I've pasted a link at the bottom of this comment with the Stewart illustration. I'm a pretty shit surfer, but I'll try my best to give a succinct explanation of Stewart's advice and hopefully it'll be helpful to some of you like it was for me. Essentially, from the moment the wave breaks the wave goes through cycles of 'high' and 'low' pressure. It sort of bounces and the way in which it bounces depends on a number of different factors (wave type, size, swell period, bathymetry, shape/type of ocean floor, etc). Learning how to identify these things in a dynamic and constantly changing situation may take a lifetime, but if you pay attention you can sort of start to figure it out, even from day one. Many surfers learn to do it without ever realizing the mechanics behind what it is they're doing, but if you've ever seen a surfer sometimes 'stalling' or waiting (paddling parallel to the beach, paddling toward the beach, or just sitting still) until the perfect point to duck dive then you're already familiar with it. Rushing toward a wave to duck dive can help you or it can harm you. This is because of 'high' and 'low' pressure points. As soon as the lip punches the surface, there is 'high' pressure and you're most likely gonna get rocked. Just after that point, the wave bounces upward, creating a pocket of 'low' pressure. Duck diving at this point will almost guarantee you getting under it safely. As that energy reaches apex, again it begins to fall creating another point of 'high pressure' and you'll probably get rocked, though not as much as the initial impact/point of 'high' pressure. This bouncing and cycling of 'high' and 'low' pressures will continue on so-on and so-forth until the wave make's it's way all the way to the beach, with the points of 'high' and 'low' pressure decreasing exponentially. The bigger the wave, the more water, and the longer the swell period are the general parameters governing the length of the cycle of bouncing 'high' and 'low' pressures. Obviously water is extremely dynamic and no two situations are exactly the same, but as a general rule of thumb this has not only helped my (and many friends) duck diving, but also helped keep my head straight in some pretty hectic situations. Focusing your mind on how the wave is behaving and not just saying 'oh shit' and waiting to get rocked keeps your mental state stronger and calm. Cheers everyone! www.surfertoday.com/bodyboarding/the-barrel-of-a-wave-according-to-mike-stewart
@TahaNasser
@TahaNasser 4 жыл бұрын
The tip about big white water duck dives was money. It's also really nice to know that the whole issue of getting out is still a genuine 'problem' that requires understanding and technique even with pros. This is something that is never really addressed for intermediate/advanced surfing. Thanks
@richardewels6280
@richardewels6280 4 жыл бұрын
Good advice. I'm 60 and still learning. Only thing I would add is, if you have too bail on smaller waves for the reasons you're stated, turn your board parallel to the wave. Reduces the risk of snapping it.
@danielmenten4403
@danielmenten4403 4 жыл бұрын
I love this content Nathan, you explain it really well and turned me onto some new tricks to try. Here’s another topic I would love to hear your thoughts about...Close out barrels, when and how to bail so you don’t get sucked over the falls with your board alongside. Jumping forward vs cutting out the back. What to do when you are committed and know you’re screwed. Thanks man, keep charging you’re killing it!
@wesleychapman9001
@wesleychapman9001 4 жыл бұрын
Would love to know the pros and cons to diving off your board to get under a big wave. Like when to climb on top and dive off into the water. How big do the waves need to be, and does it really help you get under the wave even deeper? Thanks for the rad tips Nate - looking forward to trying out the double-dive and side-slice techniques! 🤙
@surfmatanzas
@surfmatanzas 4 жыл бұрын
it is NEVER ok to bail in front of someone. dont be that guy take the pounding, no matter how brutal it is. we have all been there I'm sure.
@WarpedENT94
@WarpedENT94 4 жыл бұрын
thanks for this info Nate! Ive been surfing since 2007(Atlantic) and naturally have always used my foot to duck-dive with, the board goes deeper & you have more control underwater!
@JesseTate
@JesseTate 2 жыл бұрын
I've never seen this guy before but he seems super nice and intuitive. Great casual personable way of explaining things--yet also very articulate and thorough.
@dperry9406
@dperry9406 Жыл бұрын
He’s a good man. . and thorough.
@danielwilkerson3212
@danielwilkerson3212 4 жыл бұрын
Love all the shred, POV videos, and funny stuff. Hope to see more of the master class stories and info too. Huge help to lower my kook to get real and usable tips I can use at my local. I dug this and your talk about wiping out at chopes. Keep killing it! 🤙🏽
@afonso_9186
@afonso_9186 4 жыл бұрын
keep doing this type of videos, love em
@Geraldinslo
@Geraldinslo 4 жыл бұрын
That was super interesting to hear the things you think of when in big surf Nathan! Maybe "What is it like taking off on big, steep Pipe?" Kinda cliche but " Worst wipe outs and how you deal with them" Any of your thoughts are a cool insight man, you Charge!
@zachnewsom4071
@zachnewsom4071 4 жыл бұрын
Good tips on going sideways rail to surface for easy pop ups! Always remember to angle your duck dive or go parallel to the white water/lip line in heavy surf! Will save you many-2x boards and get you many more waves! @6:19 I normally use my shins rather than my knees for casual duck dives... Apples and oranges! 💯
@alfonindatube
@alfonindatube 4 жыл бұрын
Nice video!, definitely plenty of good tidbits of info An scenario where I found myself this morning was: - Getting on deep on a rocky point break on a day with a lot of energy in the water (17ft swell with 19seconds) - Wipeout, water taking me inside to a cave full of rocks - Set of 3 gnarly waves behind. At that point, seeing sharp rocks behind me and huge white water coming in, pretty much I'd see no good reason to try to duck dive since I'd go directly to the rocks, so I ended up baling, board dinged up good but at least I could swim enough underneath the white water until the backwash would push me somewhat and then same with the rest of the waves. What sucks is that it was a new board that's been my magic board, but better it than my head
@patrickreen780
@patrickreen780 3 жыл бұрын
Good video - Couple of things I've learned the hard way - when paddling out I try to make sure there is no one directly in front or behind me - when I wipe out or bail and I'm under the water I wait one second and then I reach for my leash at my ankle and slide my hand up the leash to the velcro strap and then put my other hand up to the back of the board so I don't get a face full of board anymore when I come up.
@allankauai
@allankauai 4 жыл бұрын
Highly descriptive and informative discussion of the details of duck diving in powerful surf. I have tried to describe these techniques to friends in the past and had difficulty. Excellent job and keep up the good work.
@wishicouldshowmyname5815
@wishicouldshowmyname5815 4 жыл бұрын
I agree with the last guy. You have the wisdom and while you really will not see us in the lineup at pipe, we still appreciate the info. When our local spot goes loco! We need some advice to man up and deal with the conditions. Great channel.
@topherdean1024
@topherdean1024 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you. I normally don't learn anything new with these youtube videos, but I'm going to try that advice of turning your board on rail when you're getting driven down deep with your board. I hold my board on triple overhead days, even if the lip is coming down in front of me, for the reasons you said, but I've ducked, given my board the bear hug with all my might and had the wave rip it out of my arms like a purse snatcher. LOL Also, one thing I've had happen to me a couple of times is, I duck under the lip just before it lands, but don't quite make it. The lip hits the tail of the board and that causes it to fulcrum up into your face. Got a couple of fat lips that way. Usually when you're on a bigger board.
@DolfVaderNZ
@DolfVaderNZ 4 жыл бұрын
"When a wave breaks here, dont be there"! 🤣
@MaddMaxxMtb
@MaddMaxxMtb 4 жыл бұрын
Classic north shore movie line! Love it
@DolfVaderNZ
@DolfVaderNZ 4 жыл бұрын
I've lived by the learnings of that cinematic marvel since I was a grom.🤙
@damianbeattie91
@damianbeattie91 4 жыл бұрын
great logic, except i always seem to be 'there' on bigger days
@vitabricksnailslime8273
@vitabricksnailslime8273 4 жыл бұрын
When someone is pointing a gun, don't stand in front of it.
@bobbyswain1983
@bobbyswain1983 4 жыл бұрын
@@DolfVaderNZ I remember seeing that in the theater and absolutely loved it as a grom skater/surfer/bodyboarder.
@lorenwalden6547
@lorenwalden6547 4 жыл бұрын
This video and your recent gopro video of big pipe are two perfect examples of unique content you provide. So few of us would ever have your perspective of big pipe - it was exhilarating and scary to watch. Your earnestness is much appreciated. Keep up the great work! Mahalo!
@markhill1105
@markhill1105 4 жыл бұрын
only been surfing for a short time. i am 55 yrs old. I had no idea there was that many situation.. my board is a 9ft. thank you. Very good teacher. You have a future in it after surfing. Thanks again.
@ezracohen8247
@ezracohen8247 4 жыл бұрын
How you stay relaxed on long hold downs is somthing that would help a lot. Thanks for the tips👍🏽
@amunm.7858
@amunm.7858 4 жыл бұрын
Just remember it's not gonna be as long as you think.. don't fight it.. chill out.. panicking makes you lose your breath..
@zavierorlos1948
@zavierorlos1948 4 жыл бұрын
that must be like the most useful surf video i ever seen in my 20 years of surfing. Thanks Flo!.
@michaelgarganese340
@michaelgarganese340 4 жыл бұрын
agreed!
@mauritano
@mauritano 4 жыл бұрын
Excellent, I think it's safe to say we'd all be very thankful for more vlogs like this one. I would love to hear your take, tips and tricks on how to perform a grab-rail backside drop on a hollow wave, like Pipe. Again, excellent.
@m3sllaw828
@m3sllaw828 4 жыл бұрын
Bro! great video. Very informative. Gives insight into techniques that 90% of us would only use on the biggest days at our home breaks or on surf trips. Great stuff for the toolbox!
@Wotevs
@Wotevs 4 жыл бұрын
my son just started surfing this aussie summer... A short series for groms would be really cool...get em stoked!
@mattmcguire348
@mattmcguire348 4 жыл бұрын
+1 my grom just had his first real rides this past month. We loved watching the florence's grow up surfing. More grom surfing tips for sure! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKXdmHmloL6KqKs
@tommy2days
@tommy2days 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Your expertise definitely helps. I always try to hold on to my board. I’ve ditched my board a few times ( no one behind me) and it’s always worse. Broke my board a few times that way.
@elmoblatch9787
@elmoblatch9787 4 жыл бұрын
Really interesting. Thanks. I think Mr. Florence is playing in way way larger surf than most mere mortals. He backs up what I've said for a long long time...the experts duck dive most of the time. The sideways tip is really appreciated, as was the other stuff.
@pointbrk760
@pointbrk760 4 жыл бұрын
I try to also always be aware of what the other people I’m surfing with techniques are going to be. If one person is always bailing, stay as far away from him as possible.
@crsm9824
@crsm9824 4 жыл бұрын
leash length + board length + % of bails = blast radius distance to paddle around. my personal on the fly formula シ
@BLACK05GO1
@BLACK05GO1 4 жыл бұрын
And take into account the occasional leash snap. Leashes snap when the surf is big, leash size is too small for the surf size, gets cut on a fin, or just because the leash is old. So don't always assume the leash will hold. That goes for you (as the surfer too). I had my leash snap when I had to do a deep dive under a huge wave and the wave ripped the board from my grip. I was on the way outside (basically the second outside break (4th surf line up) that only breaks when there's a storm swell). I had a very long swim in and thank God another surfer grabbed my board on the main outside break (just past the end of the pier). It would have been really hard to make it all the way in had that other surfer not hold my board. When the surf is real big, you can't see anything. The swells block out your view.
@aquasight1019
@aquasight1019 4 жыл бұрын
Nice positive contribution to the surf world, thanks for the video Nathan and thumbs up!
@bloot_0
@bloot_0 3 жыл бұрын
my favorite part is those deep sighs after you have given a complete thought, example, and then keep searching your memory --- thank you for sharing so much knowledge!!
@tonysmario817
@tonysmario817 4 жыл бұрын
i would love to hear your breakdown on what boards you ride in winter and how you decide which one for which day.... what do you take to cali for smaller rippable waves?...what do you take to mex for pascuales?... when do you not wear leashes? what fins do you prefer in each board/wave? how do you decide if a board feels the way you want it to in a given wave, and what 'adjustments' are you used to making that brings that feeling together? how often do YOU break boards, and how many get ding repair before they are discarded, and where do they go? i think these are the kind of things we all want to know. like wanting to know a musicians choice of instrument and how 'they' feel playing it, so we can compare ourselves.
@meesmoons8897
@meesmoons8897 4 жыл бұрын
Nate! you make the best videos keep them coming!! Fun to see the behind the scenes on those big waves and all
@UnderseaCaveman
@UnderseaCaveman 4 жыл бұрын
I once went backwards over the falls at "Sunset" on only 4 foot (Hawaiian measure, talking about the break called "Sunset"). Had paddled up and over, thought I was good ...sat down on board (used Townie 4 footers)...and then the HORRIFYING EVENT started to unfold. I started flowing backwards and then over the falls. Ended up with 20 stitches inside my mouth (upper gum line)....totally LITERALLY ATE MY BOARD. It had my bite mark in it.....LOL (today I can laugh about). More absurd, I had to get my stitches at the place I worked (Straub) and had called in "hurt, can't come to work" earlier in the day (so I could go surf.....LOL). Just sub'd, great content....hats off to you
@victorg3782
@victorg3782 4 жыл бұрын
Yooooo who the hell DISLIKED this, this is what I and many have been waiting for across the entire internet let alone just youtube...keep killin it Nathan. shakka
@tonysmario817
@tonysmario817 4 жыл бұрын
cool of you to do these kind of vids...we all appreciate the tips and the sharing of your experience. i wish your tech guy could have inserted more clips, especially of the 'second explosion' situation, since as you say, it happens a lot. i assume he's busy and tired from all the winter filming and editing...but it would have made your vid better. also, i can think of two situations that you didn't mention....fist, not all surfers are as strong as you and your friends or train like you do...i can remember waves in hawaii that tear the board from my arms and leave the tendons damaged for days afterwards from attempting to duck dive 10-15 feet of white water. i agree with you, that duck diving is what ever real surfer attempts when possible, but the physical side of it creates a varying scale of what is possible for a given surfer. i am now 53, and i still duck dive every wave that i think i can make without injury, but i realize how much more cautious i have to be about putting myself, or others, in the situation of having to bail, since i know i am no longer powerful enough, like you, to push through 15 feet of white water, unless it's mush. and second...many years ago on maui, ilima kalama told me when surfing ho'okipa, that if you see many waves stacked up and you are about to get pounded by the first wave, DON'T try to penetrate and swim out through it because you will only be in the pit of the next 4 or 5 or 6 waves, and you will be held there. instead, turn toward shore and go under with the intention of going WITH the wave so that you sort of fly like an arrow in best case scenario, or tumble and flip, but you are moving with the wave and by the time the second wave hits you, you have moved inside the impact zone and can take the second wave further in, or decide to stall there until the set has passed. this advise served me very well in many years surfing ho'okipa, because on big days there is not time to get through the sets, but they keep you in the pit and cycle you there...very dangerous. closest i ever came to drowning. by turning on the first one toward shore, the pounding results in a safer positioning. this is not possible everywhere, but i remember how much it helped me there.
@olaa3600
@olaa3600 4 жыл бұрын
Congrats on the 40k!! Subscribers, wish you all the best legend!!, thank you Zord for all the hard work you’ve done.
@Pukkpukkpukk
@Pukkpukkpukk 4 жыл бұрын
Super informative and I wish I had seen this video years ago. I have duck dived and had the board caught up in the lip where the board flipped and gave me whiplash, this instance happened twice at the same break different sessions. Have you heard of this happening to anyone else? I'll have to try flipping the board sideways this is new. I always just tried to punch through. Yes and bailing is last resort especially if someone is behind you. I've bailed and poked out the back of a wave but the lip grabbed the board n snapped the leash like it was nothing. The board smashed on the rocks and I had a swam in. Sometimes when I duckdive fairly large surf after I almost start punching through the wave I begin kicking my feet in a swimming style to generate extra thrust which adds to stability when I emerge. The second I emerge I transfer to paddiling maybe its psycological thing but I feel like Ive made more ground and a little more stable due to moving the board forward. Thanks my 2 bits. Peace
@edelamare2010
@edelamare2010 4 жыл бұрын
You are really good at breaking down and explaining things Nathan, that is a rare skill. You should definitely do a trick and tips series of videos. Good job.
@huangjinf
@huangjinf 4 жыл бұрын
Can you give more description or a video on how to "bear hug duck dive" your board? How do you do it safely without worrying about the the board ripping out and the fins cutting you. When you are duck diving normally, your hands are on the rails and outside of the path of fins, and even when it got rips out, your hands would clear the fins.
@loco4olas
@loco4olas 4 жыл бұрын
I'm NOT Nate - what I do is wrap my front arm (left arm as natural/regular) under my board and then kinda up over the deck and grip the nose with the front hand (kinda snake it around the board) and then back arm (right) under board to grab rail on opposite side - I get tight and low and hang on for the ride :-)
@huangjinf
@huangjinf 4 жыл бұрын
@@loco4olas I think I can more or less visualize it. Can you show a picture?
@Mrcarlosfeyder
@Mrcarlosfeyder 4 жыл бұрын
going to send this video to the SUP guy who bailed on his 10ft Naish in front of me this weekend.
@safetybeachlife
@safetybeachlife 4 жыл бұрын
Carlos Feyder ,10ft board + 9ft leash = 19ft death zone.
@SoloC852
@SoloC852 4 жыл бұрын
Having those scenarios playing in my mind, and I already feel the chill through my bones.
@Charles-tx8pw
@Charles-tx8pw 4 жыл бұрын
11:52 was too real, happened to me in Bali and got dragged on the reef. I thought i was in the clear but did a lazy duckdive and paid the price. Awesome video!
@jonathanmacadam
@jonathanmacadam 4 жыл бұрын
just got to Brazil and I'm a bit of a kook, this is couldn't have come at a better time! thanks Nathan.
@kylewattssurfing3266
@kylewattssurfing3266 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips because you're definitely helping us become better Surfers. The sideways thing that really helps out a lot. I like to turn my board sideways when I'm duck diving so you soft tops and they're really buoyant and helps break through the wave. I'll be sure when I'm using a shortboard one day when I finally learn how to surf one hold on to it so they bring it back up to the surface which is a really great idea thanks for sharing that. Have you surfing from Virginia Beach!
@billS-c3n
@billS-c3n 4 жыл бұрын
I don't even surf but i'm digging your vids. Your stoke is so balanced with your humility.
@stephelectra
@stephelectra 3 жыл бұрын
If anyone thumbs down this, they probably don’t surf anything above one foot! Thank you 🙏🏽 please share more of these type of information!!! TY
@DanBusby
@DanBusby 4 жыл бұрын
Yessssss broooo!!!! Been waiting for this!!!!🔥🔥🔥
@bjornneumann8089
@bjornneumann8089 4 жыл бұрын
two more point which helps me .. 1. grab your board more at the nose when you duckdive bigger waves, than you avoid to get sucked up to the back 2. when you can‘t avoid the turbulence under water while duckdiving try to stiff yourself like a pencil so the water drags you less than when you are super loose like a towel
@reecekairys3646
@reecekairys3646 3 жыл бұрын
That was heaps helpful man, cheers. The side on thing and the timing between explosion is such a good explanation. Didn't realise that's what was going on when I flooked it but now I know. Hopefull going to get some decent waves tomorrow, cheers from Aus!
@JamesMargolis79
@JamesMargolis79 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for doing these types of vids!!! Such a huge help.
@mateusbittencourtmendes2684
@mateusbittencourtmendes2684 4 жыл бұрын
Nate, awesome video!! Tell us some back stage histories, something like when you started surfing pipe, first huge swell, rhings like that! Aloha from Brazil
@kandyfelton4963
@kandyfelton4963 4 жыл бұрын
Really appreciate these informative videos, really helpful. Thanks Nathan! 🤙💙
@bullseye0112
@bullseye0112 4 жыл бұрын
Nathan, amazing stuff, the mystery of getting out with the giant surf has always been a wonder. The paddle out was cool to see also. Keep it up, sick material
@theAussie01
@theAussie01 4 жыл бұрын
Your honesty and thinking on the spot, as your filming.... is really considering all the variables. You seem honest and real man. Thanks.You are good at teaching.Explaining well so others can visualise is a skill.Your sharing could save many lives..........a little knowledge goes a long way in big juice.
@jasonbruce4491
@jasonbruce4491 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for a super informative lesson nate! Showed it to my grom kiddos...we love your vids easily a 500 dollar lesson for free super appreciative bro! Love watching you charge! Stay safe!
@GrooveDuude
@GrooveDuude 4 жыл бұрын
I always bear hug on big days especially. Learned that from longboarding. I see most surfers ditching the board. Ditching is a bad idea. You are one of the few surfers I have heard acknowledge this technique.
@mnegline1971
@mnegline1971 4 жыл бұрын
Compulsory viewing even for experienced surfers! I wish I had KZbin and Nathan Florence's channel when i was a 12 yo grommie!
@johncooper1224
@johncooper1224 4 жыл бұрын
True ambassador of surfing. This is awesome video.
@MaximusDowns
@MaximusDowns 3 жыл бұрын
Turning your board sideways to help it navigate its way up is such great advice. I don't know if I would have ever thought of that but I can assure you I'm going to try that going forward. Thank you Nathan!
@bruno6288
@bruno6288 4 жыл бұрын
Awesome tips Nathan, really helpful. It´b great if you give tips on what to do in a barrel wipe out, how to place your body in those situations, dodge your board, frontside and backside barrels.
@aloneintokyo
@aloneintokyo 4 жыл бұрын
Wow never thought to turn the board in the side. Thanks for the tip
@charlesmartin1121
@charlesmartin1121 4 жыл бұрын
Always wanted to ask this question of an experienced surfer: which break is more dangerous either to wipeout on or be caught inside on a 12 foot wave--1st reef Pipeline or Teahupoo? I know Teahupoo can go bigger than 12 foot. And frankly when it does I would think it would be significantly more dangerous the Pipeline.
@lindsaymann7569
@lindsaymann7569 2 жыл бұрын
Nathan, thank you soooo much for your insight!! I feel like I can’t get enough. Please continue to educate on this!!
@theeyesurgeon1
@theeyesurgeon1 4 жыл бұрын
this was awesome, it kind of reminded me coaching kids wakeboarding and how to learn to fall and how to fall etc to avoid injury. Probably my favorite channel on youtube
@jeffpfefferkorn217
@jeffpfefferkorn217 4 жыл бұрын
This was awesome. So many scenarios. Huge stones and passion for surfing. Hope you catch the wave of your life soon.
@danielcurvello3173
@danielcurvello3173 4 жыл бұрын
If you are using a basic float vest it's possible to avoid breaking the leash as long as you are carried by the wave as the board. Once I was surprised by a big set (8' my scale) and before the waves breakes I put the board by my side, let the best float and breath while the waves was breaking. As the waves comes I sink in straight position with my head 20" under water. As I felt the turbulence I let it carries me and change my position laying with my head and toes parallel to the surface of the white water. Open my arms and slowly move them as wings floating until the surface... maybe is crazy approach but I was relax and not tired after... And the most important I was near the beach out of the impact zone...
@ewxlt
@ewxlt 4 жыл бұрын
Walk us through the mental thought process of when you've tried to pull the big gun through the face...but you realize it won't...and you begin the descent into despair....
@sanfranciscobay
@sanfranciscobay 4 жыл бұрын
How about when to use a "Punch Through" as compared to straightening out at Pipeline when you see the wave is going to close out in front of you?
@CarlosPeralta_UK
@CarlosPeralta_UK 4 жыл бұрын
Great video ! Keep it real and keep it coming, don’t waste time with fancy editing and background songs - the content is gold !
@rainscratch
@rainscratch 4 жыл бұрын
Deep respect for your professionalism, and sharing your hard-won knowledge. Big, and even medium waves have tons of water propelled by the massive kinetic energy of the wave equal to multiple locomotives coming at you. It is a dangerous environment. Just a legal tip - would be wise to include a disclaimer to the effect that these are your personal experiences and you take no liability for each surfer's circumstances, skill levels etc.
SURF DECISION MAKING EXPLAINED OVER RAW POV PIPELINE FOOTAGE
20:44
Nathan Florence
Рет қаралды 186 М.
DUCKDIVE BIG WAVES IN DEEP WATER VS SHALLOW WATER TECHNIQUE!
18:02
Nathan Florence
Рет қаралды 197 М.
СКОЛЬКО ПАЛЬЦЕВ ТУТ?
00:16
Masomka
Рет қаралды 3,5 МЛН
The IMPOSSIBLE Puzzle..
00:55
Stokes Twins
Рет қаралды 179 МЛН
Чистка воды совком от денег
00:32
FD Vasya
Рет қаралды 1,9 МЛН
The Ultimate Sausage Prank! Watch Their Reactions 😂🌭 #Unexpected
00:17
La La Life Shorts
Рет қаралды 8 МЛН
How to Duck Dive Bigger Surfboards & Long-boards Plus other tips
5:55
How to Duck Dive a Bodyboard | 5 EASY Steps!!
4:13
Iain Campbell
Рет қаралды 68 М.
Improve Your Duck Dive In 4 Simple Steps.
15:59
Ombe Surf
Рет қаралды 109 М.
You'll never get barrelled until you understand this | IN-DEPTH SURF LESSON
20:05
Kale Brock (Kale Brock)
Рет қаралды 53 М.
“THE SHOCK” PADDLE ATTEMPT SURFING BRAZILS EXTREME WAVES PART 2!
16:37
Duck Dive Bigger Waves Explained
8:38
Iain Campbell
Рет қаралды 164 М.
More Waves With Less Effort - Proper Paddling Technique
14:52
Hydro Mind
Рет қаралды 105 М.
SURFING ONE OF PORTUGALS MOST EXTREME WAVES!
11:12
Nathan Florence
Рет қаралды 67 М.
СКОЛЬКО ПАЛЬЦЕВ ТУТ?
00:16
Masomka
Рет қаралды 3,5 МЛН