Guys thanks for all the feedback and stoked you are learning a few things!! Here is what ill do, many of you posted comments asking about breakdowns of different scenarios, look thru the comments, like the one you want to here about, most liked comment on info question ill answer and breakdown in the next video!
@kandyfelton49634 жыл бұрын
Really like these informative videos, super helpful. I really think you should do more of them. Thanks, Nathan! 🤙💙
@fishmemmo4 жыл бұрын
Your videos are unbelievable helpful and I saw thousands of them! You bring so many details!!
@dadthelad3 жыл бұрын
I'd super love to see you post the board models, volumes, and dims, and your body weight in each vid. Would be nice to be able to calibrate how you're thinking about boards for each session.
@DJ_JMIZZEL2 жыл бұрын
Always learning something new ;)
@magnetmountain332 жыл бұрын
Dude this is awesome brother thank you so much
@fulltang14 жыл бұрын
Please do a tips and techniques series, seriously helpful!
@kylewattssurfing32664 жыл бұрын
Yes yes I agree 1 trillion %
@matthudson41364 жыл бұрын
Absolutely
@universalperspective4 жыл бұрын
We are so lucky he does this for free. Even if he does get paid in views, we're getting free in depth surf lessons from a world class professional.
@georgepap36134 жыл бұрын
would be sick!
@aarongrady73544 жыл бұрын
universalperspective common sense really
@emick33264 жыл бұрын
As a beginner I used to watch so many how to duckdive videos which didn't help at all other than learning the movement. Now that I'm a confident duck diver I've learned most these things you talk about through trial and error and trust me when I say that this video is hands down the best duck diver theory video out there
@AimeeNolte4 жыл бұрын
You talk about everything in such a good way. You’re really good at making people envision the exact situation and explaining just what to do. That’s a talent. You’re a great surfer and a great teacher. Thank you!
@kandyfelton49634 жыл бұрын
Agree 💯
@TOADLINERACING3 жыл бұрын
aimee and nathan sitting in a tree k.i.s.s.i.n.g first comes love then comes marriage then the baby and baby carriage
@LiebenMusik4 жыл бұрын
I'm enjoying the story telling vibe. Super engaging and just feels like you're having a casual chat - no ego no fluff just straight up genuine content.
@bobbyswain19834 жыл бұрын
So true!.
@jamesdalecopeland27194 жыл бұрын
Bro do a maneuver series! Would be sick to hear your technique! Us mere mortals need all the help we can get.
@nicklund52114 жыл бұрын
Trueeee
@enzo34404 жыл бұрын
Tips on catching waves and wave reading, left, right, close outs, when to start paddling, when you’re screwed. Moving from kite surfing to surfing, I find this to be the hardest part.
@NathanFlorence4 жыл бұрын
enzo3440 thats rad man
@universalperspective4 жыл бұрын
You would be amazed at how many surfers young and old have never been educated on this vital aspect of surfing before. I truly think this video is going to have influence on energy expended in the water and overall awareness and safety for those who watch. The way you explain with science and firsthand experience is a huge blessing. This is essentially one of those masterclass lessons people pay for but for free...Who knew you were an amazing TEACHER as well as pro surfer / fitness guru / etc. Thanks for being such a great role model all around.
@jimmer36634 жыл бұрын
Your literally one of the best surfers, I don't understand why you haven't got millions of subs!
@hitcho58124 жыл бұрын
@John Dunbar is he actually? i couldn't tell, i just watch his surfing 😂
@gusreece47134 жыл бұрын
@@hitcho5812 he has a gf
@0356danmcc4 жыл бұрын
#1 surfer this year
@gucape4 жыл бұрын
Is up to us to spread his nice videos!
@singlefin77684 жыл бұрын
John Dunbar and you’re commenting on his channel 🤣🤣🤣 stop stalking ya creep haha
@pickleforknwiggles6344 жыл бұрын
Never make the mistake of doing a pushup challenge before charging big pipe.
@NathanFlorence4 жыл бұрын
pickle fork N wiggles hahaha never!
@GiuseppeGaribaldi466644 жыл бұрын
Nathan Florence Listen to Pickles, he’s onto something here
@shandoe7gw8674 жыл бұрын
Lmao!!
@jerrypfau56474 жыл бұрын
Somebody send Nate some art for his walls.
@pano-rific88384 жыл бұрын
I'll get right on that soon. I do Big panoramas. Stay tuned. Hit me up bro.
@alanmagee814 жыл бұрын
The only wall he's interested in is the one where the window let's him view the swell! Maybe!
@PaulOReilly7123 жыл бұрын
The light switch kinda breaks up the blandness of the wall behind him! We know he has faced hell many times but has the confidence to use his skills to beat whatever the ocean throws at him! stay safe Mighty one of the sea!
@legendfilms61853 жыл бұрын
lol good one
@xyzct4 жыл бұрын
This also applies to dealing with women.
@NathanFlorence4 жыл бұрын
xyzct hahahaha if she is apexing on you bail bail bail
@TheNateml4 жыл бұрын
definitely bail if it's lip to head
@c.12114 жыл бұрын
I take my redpills before I duck dive any female and wave. Coach Greg Adams, a must see channel.
@xyzct4 жыл бұрын
@@c.1211, Coach is AWESOME! And that brother has been getting better and better with every video. Every guy should watch him.
@c.12114 жыл бұрын
@@xyzct oh yeah, I agree. 👍😃
@KevinPomplun3 жыл бұрын
Best duck diving advice yet! Top 5 tips - default to duck dive, the duck dive scoop, turning your board sideways to surface through boils, on beach breaks finding the pocket five feet before the lip, and opening your eyes on the first set wave to see between plumes and boils, where you can swim to the surface. Thank you for keeping the NS safe and fun!
@Psydo4 жыл бұрын
major respect for not cutting the video, straight off top. F
@hipsonsogbo4 жыл бұрын
Truth
@isuckatgaming72254 жыл бұрын
We can feel how genuine you are when you try to help out others, love the attitude love the video thank you.
@JairLaird4 жыл бұрын
Also, when bailing a big lip on the head, turn your board parallel to the lip-line, as the lip landing along the board is less likely to break the board. If board is perpendicular (at 90 degrees to the lipline) the wave will break across the middle of the board and is more likely to break the board.
@cforce724 жыл бұрын
I learned this the hard way about 2 weeks ago
@safetybeachlife4 жыл бұрын
Good call ! Will remember that tip.
@gcoinhistorian4 жыл бұрын
I don't even surf anymore, but wish I had this advice when I was younger. You could be saving lives. It would be cool if duck dive technique was taught. I could never get deep without wave transition in front of me. Even though most of us have never surfed 10 foot plus, your experience on those waves is helpful from a knowledge standpoint. Much respect to you for this information.
@d6anders4 жыл бұрын
Two questions: 1. What is best technique for bailing in really big water? I see hawaii guys in videos often standing up beforehand are they trying to get board under or some height to dive down? 2. There is this video of your brother duck diving in a pool and staying down to "swim" or frog kick along the bottom kzbin.info/www/bejne/qaSYaZlmoKammsU. Is this functional and do you/he ever use it in the water? Really appreciated this video and the Chopes one. A lot of us don't get opportunities to practice in big water and things like this are valuable for those times when surprise swell comes in. And any time you want to break down techniques you have learned in Aircamp PLEASE DO.
@albertozellner43684 жыл бұрын
johns technique only works if your board has no fins on it, so sadly not applicable in normal surfing. notice in the video how his board has no fins
@j3in7254 жыл бұрын
@@albertozellner4368 He did have fins on, he even mentions hitting them on the bottom of te pool. Here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWrWqn1nqZJ_lbc
@gregpark13594 жыл бұрын
Hi Nathan. I would love a run down on how to bail whilst in the barrel ... forehand, backhand, large vs. small waves etc. PS, thanks and love the vids
@pyzelphantom43554 жыл бұрын
This would be insanely helpful
@nicovalenzuela40444 жыл бұрын
Just a heads up, he just made the vid🙏
@topherdean10244 жыл бұрын
I was watching an interview with Slater years ago, and the best thing to do is not bail. Stick with it to the end, but if you do, it's natural to dive forward, I still do sometimes, but he claimed it's better to kick your board forward and fall back, which I have found is less abusive. It's counter intuitive.
@Surfhound4 жыл бұрын
Great points. I will duckdive all the time unless a real square board breaker or timing is off. One thing you didn’t mention is paddling back 10 to 15 feet to let initial impact explode and mellow. It has saved me many times. Nice work on blog.
@lavapix4 жыл бұрын
I duck dive with a big red X on my back. At least that's what it feels like at times. The lip always finds me. My worst injuries were the results of my board getting away from me when getting caught inside. One thing you may have wanted to mention is if you are separated from your board while duck diving as you surface block your face with your arms either crossed or like a boxer. Boards become missiles when returning to you.
@remysteele1204 жыл бұрын
Yes that has happened to me and it is not a nciebfeeling
@snakecat5863 жыл бұрын
Oh yeah I just cover my face and relax when I get swallowed.
@theyoungupstarts12433 жыл бұрын
X marks the spot! A six+ footer broke in front of me at Marine Street La Jolla years ago. When i eventually shot to the surface, my board was above me and i hit it hard with the top of my head. Stars were seen. An impression of my cranium was made. As noted, come up with a hand first. I’m a diver and should have known better, but the holddown was a bit gnarly and i din’t think of it.
@The2SDIOSREIG4 жыл бұрын
The true purpose of having KZbin here! People would pay for the knowledge and experience you just share. Very encouraging and helpful!!
@Saelenkmith4 жыл бұрын
My favorite surfing explanation series on KZbin by far
@Luker4104 жыл бұрын
What a great lesson for guys in big waves, I'm not even believing that there were 78 guys that didn't appreciate this graduate level lesson in big waves. You ought to consider becoming a Navy pilot. You've got more guts than a lot of guys I flew with. I've always thought flying and surfing go together, especially now with foils. Great lesson Nathan, Awesome!
@xyzct4 жыл бұрын
Nate, you might also include turtle rolling, and "longboard duck diving" (where you tilt the board sideways to push it deeper).
@ashleytrondson72224 жыл бұрын
I laughed so much when he put everyone’s faces on the ducks hahaha this was some quality content for sure thanks Nathan!
@malsetmal4 жыл бұрын
In What minute?
@NathanFlorence4 жыл бұрын
Ashley Trondson haha thanks man
@jeremybradley5594 жыл бұрын
What are you on about ?
@oliverchandler10724 жыл бұрын
7:34
@SprintLikeKittel4 жыл бұрын
what a nightmare to go backwards over the falls at Chopes. I'm getting huge chills when you're explaining it. I would die in 2 seconds for sure.
@hazza774 жыл бұрын
U can’t hold your breathe for more than 2 seconds?!
@eddyjones93954 жыл бұрын
@hazza I don't think erikka would die in 2 secs from not having big lungs, more like die of a heart attack
@SprintLikeKittel4 жыл бұрын
@@eddyjones9395 exactly
@brettroberts14523 жыл бұрын
I'm old and don't surf anymore unfortunately..i watch your surfing life and it takes me back to my younger surfing days living on the Aussie Northern NSW Coast..you seem like a nice kid who has been brought up well with family values..my advice is life goes past very quickly so never take it for granted..and everyone bleeds the same colour blood..keep enjoying your very lucky life
@muncy28404 жыл бұрын
We've only had waves big enough in New Smyrna Beach once where we had to bail to get out. Halloween of 91'. But I hope to one day have it again. Thank you for the info bro. You are a true Guru of big surf. Love to watch you charge. Keep them coming
@jfrealestate2013 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the breakdown! I don't think one of us will EVER need the teahupoo duck dive but great for novelty purposes
@cultparade29814 жыл бұрын
Solid tips! ALWAYS GOTTA CONSIDER OTHERS AROUND YOU and that's just general surf etiquette. Legend Mike Stewart had some really interesting insight back in the day regarding the actual wave and how to perceive it that I always thought was super helpful. I've tried to find the more in depth take on it that I read years ago, but all I could find was a quick recap and an image Stewart drew some notes on. I've pasted a link at the bottom of this comment with the Stewart illustration. I'm a pretty shit surfer, but I'll try my best to give a succinct explanation of Stewart's advice and hopefully it'll be helpful to some of you like it was for me. Essentially, from the moment the wave breaks the wave goes through cycles of 'high' and 'low' pressure. It sort of bounces and the way in which it bounces depends on a number of different factors (wave type, size, swell period, bathymetry, shape/type of ocean floor, etc). Learning how to identify these things in a dynamic and constantly changing situation may take a lifetime, but if you pay attention you can sort of start to figure it out, even from day one. Many surfers learn to do it without ever realizing the mechanics behind what it is they're doing, but if you've ever seen a surfer sometimes 'stalling' or waiting (paddling parallel to the beach, paddling toward the beach, or just sitting still) until the perfect point to duck dive then you're already familiar with it. Rushing toward a wave to duck dive can help you or it can harm you. This is because of 'high' and 'low' pressure points. As soon as the lip punches the surface, there is 'high' pressure and you're most likely gonna get rocked. Just after that point, the wave bounces upward, creating a pocket of 'low' pressure. Duck diving at this point will almost guarantee you getting under it safely. As that energy reaches apex, again it begins to fall creating another point of 'high pressure' and you'll probably get rocked, though not as much as the initial impact/point of 'high' pressure. This bouncing and cycling of 'high' and 'low' pressures will continue on so-on and so-forth until the wave make's it's way all the way to the beach, with the points of 'high' and 'low' pressure decreasing exponentially. The bigger the wave, the more water, and the longer the swell period are the general parameters governing the length of the cycle of bouncing 'high' and 'low' pressures. Obviously water is extremely dynamic and no two situations are exactly the same, but as a general rule of thumb this has not only helped my (and many friends) duck diving, but also helped keep my head straight in some pretty hectic situations. Focusing your mind on how the wave is behaving and not just saying 'oh shit' and waiting to get rocked keeps your mental state stronger and calm. Cheers everyone! www.surfertoday.com/bodyboarding/the-barrel-of-a-wave-according-to-mike-stewart
@TahaNasser4 жыл бұрын
The tip about big white water duck dives was money. It's also really nice to know that the whole issue of getting out is still a genuine 'problem' that requires understanding and technique even with pros. This is something that is never really addressed for intermediate/advanced surfing. Thanks
@richardewels62804 жыл бұрын
Good advice. I'm 60 and still learning. Only thing I would add is, if you have too bail on smaller waves for the reasons you're stated, turn your board parallel to the wave. Reduces the risk of snapping it.
@danielmenten44034 жыл бұрын
I love this content Nathan, you explain it really well and turned me onto some new tricks to try. Here’s another topic I would love to hear your thoughts about...Close out barrels, when and how to bail so you don’t get sucked over the falls with your board alongside. Jumping forward vs cutting out the back. What to do when you are committed and know you’re screwed. Thanks man, keep charging you’re killing it!
@wesleychapman90014 жыл бұрын
Would love to know the pros and cons to diving off your board to get under a big wave. Like when to climb on top and dive off into the water. How big do the waves need to be, and does it really help you get under the wave even deeper? Thanks for the rad tips Nate - looking forward to trying out the double-dive and side-slice techniques! 🤙
@surfmatanzas4 жыл бұрын
it is NEVER ok to bail in front of someone. dont be that guy take the pounding, no matter how brutal it is. we have all been there I'm sure.
@WarpedENT944 жыл бұрын
thanks for this info Nate! Ive been surfing since 2007(Atlantic) and naturally have always used my foot to duck-dive with, the board goes deeper & you have more control underwater!
@JesseTate2 жыл бұрын
I've never seen this guy before but he seems super nice and intuitive. Great casual personable way of explaining things--yet also very articulate and thorough.
@dperry9406 Жыл бұрын
He’s a good man. . and thorough.
@danielwilkerson32124 жыл бұрын
Love all the shred, POV videos, and funny stuff. Hope to see more of the master class stories and info too. Huge help to lower my kook to get real and usable tips I can use at my local. I dug this and your talk about wiping out at chopes. Keep killing it! 🤙🏽
@afonso_91864 жыл бұрын
keep doing this type of videos, love em
@Geraldinslo4 жыл бұрын
That was super interesting to hear the things you think of when in big surf Nathan! Maybe "What is it like taking off on big, steep Pipe?" Kinda cliche but " Worst wipe outs and how you deal with them" Any of your thoughts are a cool insight man, you Charge!
@zachnewsom40714 жыл бұрын
Good tips on going sideways rail to surface for easy pop ups! Always remember to angle your duck dive or go parallel to the white water/lip line in heavy surf! Will save you many-2x boards and get you many more waves! @6:19 I normally use my shins rather than my knees for casual duck dives... Apples and oranges! 💯
@alfonindatube4 жыл бұрын
Nice video!, definitely plenty of good tidbits of info An scenario where I found myself this morning was: - Getting on deep on a rocky point break on a day with a lot of energy in the water (17ft swell with 19seconds) - Wipeout, water taking me inside to a cave full of rocks - Set of 3 gnarly waves behind. At that point, seeing sharp rocks behind me and huge white water coming in, pretty much I'd see no good reason to try to duck dive since I'd go directly to the rocks, so I ended up baling, board dinged up good but at least I could swim enough underneath the white water until the backwash would push me somewhat and then same with the rest of the waves. What sucks is that it was a new board that's been my magic board, but better it than my head
@patrickreen7803 жыл бұрын
Good video - Couple of things I've learned the hard way - when paddling out I try to make sure there is no one directly in front or behind me - when I wipe out or bail and I'm under the water I wait one second and then I reach for my leash at my ankle and slide my hand up the leash to the velcro strap and then put my other hand up to the back of the board so I don't get a face full of board anymore when I come up.
@allankauai4 жыл бұрын
Highly descriptive and informative discussion of the details of duck diving in powerful surf. I have tried to describe these techniques to friends in the past and had difficulty. Excellent job and keep up the good work.
@wishicouldshowmyname58154 жыл бұрын
I agree with the last guy. You have the wisdom and while you really will not see us in the lineup at pipe, we still appreciate the info. When our local spot goes loco! We need some advice to man up and deal with the conditions. Great channel.
@topherdean10244 жыл бұрын
Thank you. I normally don't learn anything new with these youtube videos, but I'm going to try that advice of turning your board on rail when you're getting driven down deep with your board. I hold my board on triple overhead days, even if the lip is coming down in front of me, for the reasons you said, but I've ducked, given my board the bear hug with all my might and had the wave rip it out of my arms like a purse snatcher. LOL Also, one thing I've had happen to me a couple of times is, I duck under the lip just before it lands, but don't quite make it. The lip hits the tail of the board and that causes it to fulcrum up into your face. Got a couple of fat lips that way. Usually when you're on a bigger board.
@DolfVaderNZ4 жыл бұрын
"When a wave breaks here, dont be there"! 🤣
@MaddMaxxMtb4 жыл бұрын
Classic north shore movie line! Love it
@DolfVaderNZ4 жыл бұрын
I've lived by the learnings of that cinematic marvel since I was a grom.🤙
@damianbeattie914 жыл бұрын
great logic, except i always seem to be 'there' on bigger days
@vitabricksnailslime82734 жыл бұрын
When someone is pointing a gun, don't stand in front of it.
@bobbyswain19834 жыл бұрын
@@DolfVaderNZ I remember seeing that in the theater and absolutely loved it as a grom skater/surfer/bodyboarder.
@lorenwalden65474 жыл бұрын
This video and your recent gopro video of big pipe are two perfect examples of unique content you provide. So few of us would ever have your perspective of big pipe - it was exhilarating and scary to watch. Your earnestness is much appreciated. Keep up the great work! Mahalo!
@markhill11054 жыл бұрын
only been surfing for a short time. i am 55 yrs old. I had no idea there was that many situation.. my board is a 9ft. thank you. Very good teacher. You have a future in it after surfing. Thanks again.
@ezracohen82474 жыл бұрын
How you stay relaxed on long hold downs is somthing that would help a lot. Thanks for the tips👍🏽
@amunm.78584 жыл бұрын
Just remember it's not gonna be as long as you think.. don't fight it.. chill out.. panicking makes you lose your breath..
@zavierorlos19484 жыл бұрын
that must be like the most useful surf video i ever seen in my 20 years of surfing. Thanks Flo!.
@michaelgarganese3404 жыл бұрын
agreed!
@mauritano4 жыл бұрын
Excellent, I think it's safe to say we'd all be very thankful for more vlogs like this one. I would love to hear your take, tips and tricks on how to perform a grab-rail backside drop on a hollow wave, like Pipe. Again, excellent.
@m3sllaw8284 жыл бұрын
Bro! great video. Very informative. Gives insight into techniques that 90% of us would only use on the biggest days at our home breaks or on surf trips. Great stuff for the toolbox!
@Wotevs4 жыл бұрын
my son just started surfing this aussie summer... A short series for groms would be really cool...get em stoked!
@mattmcguire3484 жыл бұрын
+1 my grom just had his first real rides this past month. We loved watching the florence's grow up surfing. More grom surfing tips for sure! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKXdmHmloL6KqKs
@tommy2days4 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Your expertise definitely helps. I always try to hold on to my board. I’ve ditched my board a few times ( no one behind me) and it’s always worse. Broke my board a few times that way.
@elmoblatch97874 жыл бұрын
Really interesting. Thanks. I think Mr. Florence is playing in way way larger surf than most mere mortals. He backs up what I've said for a long long time...the experts duck dive most of the time. The sideways tip is really appreciated, as was the other stuff.
@pointbrk7604 жыл бұрын
I try to also always be aware of what the other people I’m surfing with techniques are going to be. If one person is always bailing, stay as far away from him as possible.
@crsm98244 жыл бұрын
leash length + board length + % of bails = blast radius distance to paddle around. my personal on the fly formula シ
@BLACK05GO14 жыл бұрын
And take into account the occasional leash snap. Leashes snap when the surf is big, leash size is too small for the surf size, gets cut on a fin, or just because the leash is old. So don't always assume the leash will hold. That goes for you (as the surfer too). I had my leash snap when I had to do a deep dive under a huge wave and the wave ripped the board from my grip. I was on the way outside (basically the second outside break (4th surf line up) that only breaks when there's a storm swell). I had a very long swim in and thank God another surfer grabbed my board on the main outside break (just past the end of the pier). It would have been really hard to make it all the way in had that other surfer not hold my board. When the surf is real big, you can't see anything. The swells block out your view.
@aquasight10194 жыл бұрын
Nice positive contribution to the surf world, thanks for the video Nathan and thumbs up!
@bloot_03 жыл бұрын
my favorite part is those deep sighs after you have given a complete thought, example, and then keep searching your memory --- thank you for sharing so much knowledge!!
@tonysmario8174 жыл бұрын
i would love to hear your breakdown on what boards you ride in winter and how you decide which one for which day.... what do you take to cali for smaller rippable waves?...what do you take to mex for pascuales?... when do you not wear leashes? what fins do you prefer in each board/wave? how do you decide if a board feels the way you want it to in a given wave, and what 'adjustments' are you used to making that brings that feeling together? how often do YOU break boards, and how many get ding repair before they are discarded, and where do they go? i think these are the kind of things we all want to know. like wanting to know a musicians choice of instrument and how 'they' feel playing it, so we can compare ourselves.
@meesmoons88974 жыл бұрын
Nate! you make the best videos keep them coming!! Fun to see the behind the scenes on those big waves and all
@UnderseaCaveman4 жыл бұрын
I once went backwards over the falls at "Sunset" on only 4 foot (Hawaiian measure, talking about the break called "Sunset"). Had paddled up and over, thought I was good ...sat down on board (used Townie 4 footers)...and then the HORRIFYING EVENT started to unfold. I started flowing backwards and then over the falls. Ended up with 20 stitches inside my mouth (upper gum line)....totally LITERALLY ATE MY BOARD. It had my bite mark in it.....LOL (today I can laugh about). More absurd, I had to get my stitches at the place I worked (Straub) and had called in "hurt, can't come to work" earlier in the day (so I could go surf.....LOL). Just sub'd, great content....hats off to you
@victorg37824 жыл бұрын
Yooooo who the hell DISLIKED this, this is what I and many have been waiting for across the entire internet let alone just youtube...keep killin it Nathan. shakka
@tonysmario8174 жыл бұрын
cool of you to do these kind of vids...we all appreciate the tips and the sharing of your experience. i wish your tech guy could have inserted more clips, especially of the 'second explosion' situation, since as you say, it happens a lot. i assume he's busy and tired from all the winter filming and editing...but it would have made your vid better. also, i can think of two situations that you didn't mention....fist, not all surfers are as strong as you and your friends or train like you do...i can remember waves in hawaii that tear the board from my arms and leave the tendons damaged for days afterwards from attempting to duck dive 10-15 feet of white water. i agree with you, that duck diving is what ever real surfer attempts when possible, but the physical side of it creates a varying scale of what is possible for a given surfer. i am now 53, and i still duck dive every wave that i think i can make without injury, but i realize how much more cautious i have to be about putting myself, or others, in the situation of having to bail, since i know i am no longer powerful enough, like you, to push through 15 feet of white water, unless it's mush. and second...many years ago on maui, ilima kalama told me when surfing ho'okipa, that if you see many waves stacked up and you are about to get pounded by the first wave, DON'T try to penetrate and swim out through it because you will only be in the pit of the next 4 or 5 or 6 waves, and you will be held there. instead, turn toward shore and go under with the intention of going WITH the wave so that you sort of fly like an arrow in best case scenario, or tumble and flip, but you are moving with the wave and by the time the second wave hits you, you have moved inside the impact zone and can take the second wave further in, or decide to stall there until the set has passed. this advise served me very well in many years surfing ho'okipa, because on big days there is not time to get through the sets, but they keep you in the pit and cycle you there...very dangerous. closest i ever came to drowning. by turning on the first one toward shore, the pounding results in a safer positioning. this is not possible everywhere, but i remember how much it helped me there.
@olaa36004 жыл бұрын
Congrats on the 40k!! Subscribers, wish you all the best legend!!, thank you Zord for all the hard work you’ve done.
@Pukkpukkpukk4 жыл бұрын
Super informative and I wish I had seen this video years ago. I have duck dived and had the board caught up in the lip where the board flipped and gave me whiplash, this instance happened twice at the same break different sessions. Have you heard of this happening to anyone else? I'll have to try flipping the board sideways this is new. I always just tried to punch through. Yes and bailing is last resort especially if someone is behind you. I've bailed and poked out the back of a wave but the lip grabbed the board n snapped the leash like it was nothing. The board smashed on the rocks and I had a swam in. Sometimes when I duckdive fairly large surf after I almost start punching through the wave I begin kicking my feet in a swimming style to generate extra thrust which adds to stability when I emerge. The second I emerge I transfer to paddiling maybe its psycological thing but I feel like Ive made more ground and a little more stable due to moving the board forward. Thanks my 2 bits. Peace
@edelamare20104 жыл бұрын
You are really good at breaking down and explaining things Nathan, that is a rare skill. You should definitely do a trick and tips series of videos. Good job.
@huangjinf4 жыл бұрын
Can you give more description or a video on how to "bear hug duck dive" your board? How do you do it safely without worrying about the the board ripping out and the fins cutting you. When you are duck diving normally, your hands are on the rails and outside of the path of fins, and even when it got rips out, your hands would clear the fins.
@loco4olas4 жыл бұрын
I'm NOT Nate - what I do is wrap my front arm (left arm as natural/regular) under my board and then kinda up over the deck and grip the nose with the front hand (kinda snake it around the board) and then back arm (right) under board to grab rail on opposite side - I get tight and low and hang on for the ride :-)
@huangjinf4 жыл бұрын
@@loco4olas I think I can more or less visualize it. Can you show a picture?
@Mrcarlosfeyder4 жыл бұрын
going to send this video to the SUP guy who bailed on his 10ft Naish in front of me this weekend.
@safetybeachlife4 жыл бұрын
Carlos Feyder ,10ft board + 9ft leash = 19ft death zone.
@SoloC8524 жыл бұрын
Having those scenarios playing in my mind, and I already feel the chill through my bones.
@Charles-tx8pw4 жыл бұрын
11:52 was too real, happened to me in Bali and got dragged on the reef. I thought i was in the clear but did a lazy duckdive and paid the price. Awesome video!
@jonathanmacadam4 жыл бұрын
just got to Brazil and I'm a bit of a kook, this is couldn't have come at a better time! thanks Nathan.
@kylewattssurfing32664 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips because you're definitely helping us become better Surfers. The sideways thing that really helps out a lot. I like to turn my board sideways when I'm duck diving so you soft tops and they're really buoyant and helps break through the wave. I'll be sure when I'm using a shortboard one day when I finally learn how to surf one hold on to it so they bring it back up to the surface which is a really great idea thanks for sharing that. Have you surfing from Virginia Beach!
@billS-c3n4 жыл бұрын
I don't even surf but i'm digging your vids. Your stoke is so balanced with your humility.
@stephelectra3 жыл бұрын
If anyone thumbs down this, they probably don’t surf anything above one foot! Thank you 🙏🏽 please share more of these type of information!!! TY
@DanBusby4 жыл бұрын
Yessssss broooo!!!! Been waiting for this!!!!🔥🔥🔥
@bjornneumann80894 жыл бұрын
two more point which helps me .. 1. grab your board more at the nose when you duckdive bigger waves, than you avoid to get sucked up to the back 2. when you can‘t avoid the turbulence under water while duckdiving try to stiff yourself like a pencil so the water drags you less than when you are super loose like a towel
@reecekairys36463 жыл бұрын
That was heaps helpful man, cheers. The side on thing and the timing between explosion is such a good explanation. Didn't realise that's what was going on when I flooked it but now I know. Hopefull going to get some decent waves tomorrow, cheers from Aus!
@JamesMargolis794 жыл бұрын
Thank you for doing these types of vids!!! Such a huge help.
@mateusbittencourtmendes26844 жыл бұрын
Nate, awesome video!! Tell us some back stage histories, something like when you started surfing pipe, first huge swell, rhings like that! Aloha from Brazil
@kandyfelton49634 жыл бұрын
Really appreciate these informative videos, really helpful. Thanks Nathan! 🤙💙
@bullseye01124 жыл бұрын
Nathan, amazing stuff, the mystery of getting out with the giant surf has always been a wonder. The paddle out was cool to see also. Keep it up, sick material
@theAussie014 жыл бұрын
Your honesty and thinking on the spot, as your filming.... is really considering all the variables. You seem honest and real man. Thanks.You are good at teaching.Explaining well so others can visualise is a skill.Your sharing could save many lives..........a little knowledge goes a long way in big juice.
@jasonbruce44914 жыл бұрын
Thanks for a super informative lesson nate! Showed it to my grom kiddos...we love your vids easily a 500 dollar lesson for free super appreciative bro! Love watching you charge! Stay safe!
@GrooveDuude4 жыл бұрын
I always bear hug on big days especially. Learned that from longboarding. I see most surfers ditching the board. Ditching is a bad idea. You are one of the few surfers I have heard acknowledge this technique.
@mnegline19714 жыл бұрын
Compulsory viewing even for experienced surfers! I wish I had KZbin and Nathan Florence's channel when i was a 12 yo grommie!
@johncooper12244 жыл бұрын
True ambassador of surfing. This is awesome video.
@MaximusDowns3 жыл бұрын
Turning your board sideways to help it navigate its way up is such great advice. I don't know if I would have ever thought of that but I can assure you I'm going to try that going forward. Thank you Nathan!
@bruno62884 жыл бұрын
Awesome tips Nathan, really helpful. It´b great if you give tips on what to do in a barrel wipe out, how to place your body in those situations, dodge your board, frontside and backside barrels.
@aloneintokyo4 жыл бұрын
Wow never thought to turn the board in the side. Thanks for the tip
@charlesmartin11214 жыл бұрын
Always wanted to ask this question of an experienced surfer: which break is more dangerous either to wipeout on or be caught inside on a 12 foot wave--1st reef Pipeline or Teahupoo? I know Teahupoo can go bigger than 12 foot. And frankly when it does I would think it would be significantly more dangerous the Pipeline.
@lindsaymann75692 жыл бұрын
Nathan, thank you soooo much for your insight!! I feel like I can’t get enough. Please continue to educate on this!!
@theeyesurgeon14 жыл бұрын
this was awesome, it kind of reminded me coaching kids wakeboarding and how to learn to fall and how to fall etc to avoid injury. Probably my favorite channel on youtube
@jeffpfefferkorn2174 жыл бұрын
This was awesome. So many scenarios. Huge stones and passion for surfing. Hope you catch the wave of your life soon.
@danielcurvello31734 жыл бұрын
If you are using a basic float vest it's possible to avoid breaking the leash as long as you are carried by the wave as the board. Once I was surprised by a big set (8' my scale) and before the waves breakes I put the board by my side, let the best float and breath while the waves was breaking. As the waves comes I sink in straight position with my head 20" under water. As I felt the turbulence I let it carries me and change my position laying with my head and toes parallel to the surface of the white water. Open my arms and slowly move them as wings floating until the surface... maybe is crazy approach but I was relax and not tired after... And the most important I was near the beach out of the impact zone...
@ewxlt4 жыл бұрын
Walk us through the mental thought process of when you've tried to pull the big gun through the face...but you realize it won't...and you begin the descent into despair....
@sanfranciscobay4 жыл бұрын
How about when to use a "Punch Through" as compared to straightening out at Pipeline when you see the wave is going to close out in front of you?
@CarlosPeralta_UK4 жыл бұрын
Great video ! Keep it real and keep it coming, don’t waste time with fancy editing and background songs - the content is gold !
@rainscratch4 жыл бұрын
Deep respect for your professionalism, and sharing your hard-won knowledge. Big, and even medium waves have tons of water propelled by the massive kinetic energy of the wave equal to multiple locomotives coming at you. It is a dangerous environment. Just a legal tip - would be wise to include a disclaimer to the effect that these are your personal experiences and you take no liability for each surfer's circumstances, skill levels etc.