Ducting Dos and Dont's Part 2 Kitchenfoundry.com Ventahoodparts.com Vent-A-Hood installation tips

[@youvere1]

This is by far the best content I've found related to ducting. Thanks for sharing this content

[@rickrocklobos6331]

I have been seeing your videos and you are a very talented teacher thank you

[@Penn_chill]

This EXACTLY what I needed and have been looking around to find for months. No one seemed to be knowledgeable about how best to do & how well it would work. Thank you so much! Excellent, quick, clear info with a great demo. So simple, I’m surprised it’s not common knowledge. I received a lot of blank looks & fruitless online searches. Hit the jackpot with this! Thanks again! 👏🎯

[@windandrain2004]

The part about the transition is spot on. None other videos on KZbin talk about the transition piece, and I had no idea that I could ask a sheet metal fabricator to custom make one. Thanks so much! I'm installing a 42 inch vent-a-hood 900 cfm magic lung insert and I'm having the height issue with vent-a-hood's 6+8 to 10 transition. When you custom make shorter transitions, how do you make sure that it doesn't reduce the airflow?

[@mammalatish2158]

Love the testing ❤

[@omarelghetrify215]

Thank you so much for the valued information! Great videos, this and part 1.

[@NicholasRadina]

Excellent explanations .Thank you!

[@cosmolee7902]

Informative content, both #1 & #2! Couple of unaddressed issues: 1) How do you treat the ducts so they don't become a souce of cold in the winter? In places with real winters, the duct and exit hole become sources of heat loss/cold intake via convection and conduction. 2) In terms of runs of duct, what do you use to mount them to the walls to keep them in place? Metal strap? Thanks!

[@bodinian]

I imagine it would be best to cover them on the outside until they're being used, similar to what we do with hose spigots.

[@ts89540]

In the process of installing a 42", 700CFM range hood over LPG burners. The top of the hood will be ~12" from the ceiling. My initial plan was to run 18" smooth duct into the attic and then a 90deg turn to the outside wall, which would be about another 6in total. The duct is 7in diameter. The issue I'm encountering is that my home construction is 2x6, which leads to a horizontal ceiling stud, 5 inches ceiling sheet rock, then the attic truss. So, no room for the 7in exhaust pipe (into the 5in space). So, I think I have 2 ways to go and was looking for the best solution. 1) convert the 7in duct to a 4inx10in square duct into the attic, which should have no loss of area (38sqin vs 40sqin), then do the 90deg bend to the outside wall; 2) simply do the 90deg bend at the top of the vent and direct vent through the 2x6 wall. Solution 2 would be the simplest for me to do, however I can't find information on what the minimum length of duct should be before a 90deg bend. In this case, it would be a 90deg bend driectly out of the hood. A builder friend said 18", but I haven't seen that anywhere else. Ideas? Suggestions?

[@dannybouy7948]

Thank you kindly Erik. Your video content is exceptional! Your response to my little existence is great appreciated. I'm sure you have better things to do then respond to me. 👍👍

[@tillmansr2002]

What type of fire extinguisher was used. I am thinking of testing some options. Very GOOD video

[@erikbergstrom451]

I used a powder style extinguisher I picked up from amazon. rated for use in the home

[@dannybouy7948]

Your video has explained why our over the stove island vent is absolutely useless. The builder reduced the 6" vent to a 4" and vented into the attic! Should I vent it straight up through the roof, offset, or out to an eaves vent?

[@erikbergstrom451]

It’s acceptable to vent the hood through the roof or through the wall . Making turns in the vent pipe is ok provided sharp 90 degree turns are spaced out by 5 feet between elbows.

[@carolv5818]

You give succinct, and astute information, thank you so much. My JD236 VAH requires 8"ducting, I purchased 3 pieces from Home Depot 26 guage 2 foot lengths. It is shiny not dull like in your video. Did I buy the wrong product? Should I have gotten a different product in a single length? Vertical is nearly straight up, about 6 feet total. The roof jack/cap is not the T style you favor. 1) As long as the square inches opening of the rectangle is equal or better than the 50" of the 8" round, that is the critical issue right? It doesn't have a screen over it, I am worried about rodents. 2) Will that be an issue? I think you covered the roof jacks in your first video I will re-watch.

[@erikbergstrom451]

hello, the 2 foot lengths are not an issue. You can also find them in 4 foot lengths witch require less joints to seal. When galvanized pipe ages it will look dull. The shiny pipe you purchased is just newer and should not pose an issue. New pipe has a oil on the finish, this sometimes causes the tape to have issues sticking. That manufacturing oil is what keeps newer pipe looking brighter unlike the dull looking pipe in my video. You can use many different roof caps as long as thew square inches of the opening equals the square inches of the pipe. Many users modify the t top to include chicken wire at the opening to serve as a screen. You will find vent a hood also sells roof caps with gravity opening flaps.

[@mojomarj]

Hi, This was very informative thank you for taking the time to make the 2 series videos. I have a space clearance issue in my attic. from the ceiling penetration I have 6" or less of space clearance to make the 45 to an existing vent. I would have a 6" 45 degree at the ceiling drywall penetration, then increase to 8" (when space permits)with a straight run of 5 - 6 ft then another 8" 45 to an 8" vent thru the roof. I hope that made sense, how would you advise? I am also considering to just NOT have a range hood because of the space restriction. Please advise. thanks in advance

[@erikbergstrom451]

Hello, important to clarify that this information pertains to the vent a hood product. When you are dealing with a different brand ventilation hood You may be able to get away with other perimeters of ducting turns and reductions . For this reason you should really contact the manufacturer of the hood your installing ( or there factory distributors ) to find out the limitations-of that brand. . They are the war-ranters of there product and should have all the support and installation requirements . If your installing a vent a hood brand product then the 300 cfm single blower units would be the limit for a 6 inch diameter pipe. Even though you make the pipe 8"at the end of the run it will still be limited in cubic feet per minute of exhausting air.

[@allenrees595]

Thank you for the informative videos. My new range hood has the option of venting horizontally out of the back or vertically through the cabinet via a 6" - 90 degree elbow. I can't seem to find any information as to which method is most efficient. I would assume that the vertical option would be most efficient; I'd like to hear what your thoughts are.

[@erikbergstrom451]

I don't believe you would have a performance drawback provided the overall duct run is not an exorbitantly long. We offer a few different hoods that can duct our the back or out the top. I will offer up this info on overall noise level. When the duct run forces the air to turn 90 degrees quickly it does cause the hood to sound louder. If you goal is to keep the hood as quite as possible your best bet is to let the air vent straight up. less air noise

[@humanonearth1]

If the ducting is visible, is it possible and more eye friendly to use some silicone on the articulating joints instead of the metal duck tape?

[@erikbergstrom451]

Yes. You could use high heat silicone on these joints

[@centerbuilder7677]

I have a 36” range. I’m told I need to use a 10” vent pipe. Is this right?

[@erikbergstrom451]

I’m glad you asked me this question. The 10 inch size of your pipe does not equal the amount of cfm the hood will handle. The vent a hood brand would use three blowers to achieve 900 cfm horsepower in a ten inch pipe / however we also sell hoods that use a single blower with a much higher rpm to get even more cfm through a ten inch pipe. The trade off is the volume of the hood ( we call this the sone level ). With a single blower reaching really high rpm you can get up to 1350 cfm Through that ten inch pipe. The drawback is how loud that single motor at a high rpm sounds I. Your kitchen. So the answer to your question is. It really depends on the brand of hood you are installing that dictated how much horsepower ( as we call it cfm ) you are going to get from that 10 inch pipe

[@waynegomillion4976]

Appreciate it! If I m using flat rectangle 4 × 8 duct. Using a flat rounded 90 elbow will that function as the rounded elbow? Diyer here.

[@waynegomillion4976]

For a range hood connection. 6 inch to rectangle 4x 8 sheet metal duct 3 ft to turn 5ft to elbow to 4x8 vent to roof.

[@bobbygerber2764]

This sounds fine. Here is what we offer as a conversion from 8 inch round to 6 by 8 1/2 inch square. As long as the turn has a 45 degree elbow to it, here is the photo og a piece we commonly refer for customers www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/VP561.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw1ICZBhAzEiwAFfvFhOt-nuq6fBrNak0nryYhKBOZ5A36Ky8Q14v5MPoF-mtLhqqMe9WAHRoCsXwQAvD_BwE

[@jacobpratt2500]

adding in a 8 inch venting into my kitchen but because of my roof configuration i have to do 3 vent 90's . each having a run of 4 to 5 feet each . hoping will work out fine . any suggestions . thank you for any more info you can help with and keep up the videos

[@erikbergstrom451]

On a reasonable length duct run 3 90s separated by 4 to 5 feet of straight pipe should be fine. . Each 90 degree turn does have an impact however separation of those elbows allows the air to smooth out after a turn. . Back To back 3 90s would have a dramatic impact .

[@Ockhamcool]

You don't have to guess. Each 90 degree 8" elbow adds about 10' EL (equivalent length) to your design. That means you have 15' of pipe plus an EL of 30' for a total of 45'. Add about ten more feet for transition inefficiencies and the roof cap. An 8" duct with a velocity of 1000 fpm will carry 340 CFM at a static pressure of a bit over a tenth of an inch WC in 55 ft. Check your vent blower specs. Can it support that static drop at its rated CFM? If so, you're golden. If not, you have a problem.

[@froglobster]

Hi I just watched your 10 year ago then this one. My vent at top of hood range I can do 3.5x14 rectangle or 8 round. My cabinet guys cut out rectangle at hood and 8 inch cabinet and 6 inch drywall ceiling. ( I am venting vertical about 4 feet to rooftop.) I believe transitioning from rectangle to 6 or 8 round should be okay - no problem? Thanks

[@erikbergstrom451]

Hello, if you are working with a 3.5 by 14 rectangle you should covert to the 8 inch round . There is no problem converting as long as it doesn't reduce the square inches of the exhaust/. In addition the transition should have smooth gradient flow for the airstream

[@froglobster]

@@erikbergstrom451 Awesome thanks for your quick response, good evening to you.

[@galstad662]

Hi Erik. Thanks for all the info. Wondering if you have anything to say about the direction of the overlap in the seams inside the duct. Looking at ours, the seam is going against the direction of air flow. Is that allowed? What problems could it cause? How can we fix it? Can we just use the metal tape you showed on the inside to cover those seams, or should it be deconstructed and redone? Also, how far does a range hood duct need to be away from electrical? Thank you! K

[@erikbergstrom451]

There is no criteria in the length of the power cable needed to operate the ventilation hood. We recommend the seams of the duct to be the opposite direction of the exhausting air. You can use metal tape on these inside joints of they are not facing the recommended direction. The only problem it creates is a higher overall sound volume

[@galstad662]

@@erikbergstrom451 Thanks Eric. I wasn’t asking about the power cable for the range hood. Where the duct goes, there is a bunch of other electrical (to power the microwave, outlets, approx 5 different wires). Is it ok for the duct to go right next to these wires? Can they touch? Is there a product we could put between? Any risk of fire? Thank you!

[@erikbergstrom451]

The appliance power cable does not need to be shielded, although finding a shielded cable would not hurt the installation. When a power cable is shielded it will say it on the packaging . Depending on the vent a hood you purchased it could draw around 12 amps of power. The power wire used is rated for the amperage . You would not want to use a chord that was designed for a lamp or a product that only draws 5 amps. you want to use a power cable rated for a higher amperage www.amazon.com/Replacement-Conductor-Extension-Pigtail-Wiring/dp/B09QJ27YQ1/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=12%2Bawg%2Bpower%2Bcord&qid=1683565762&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ1ZSSkJBNzhYSktVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTUyODgwQjY5WkJMR1FMSkRRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1OTcyOTcyVjgxTzRXQUhBMUk2JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

[@galstad662]

@@erikbergstrom451 Thanks Eric! So any kind of wire, whether it is for lamps, TV, vacuum cleaner, etc is OK? How can we tell if the wire is shielded? Thank you so much!

[@Ockhamcool]

Yes, duct turbulence is detrimental to airflow. One transition turned wrong and double crimped isn't going to be the end of the world, but it is not good practice. Incorrectely phasd piping transitions cause duct turbulence. Turbulence of airflows that contain post-combustables, greases and oils can cause soot and residue buildup to concentrate in turbulent areas. One double crimp is one thing, but if ALL your joints are this way, then your duct has been improperly installed. The intended airflow direction in a duct system determines the placement of the crimped ends. Sometimes careless or desperate or ignorant installers put the whole thing in backwards because they don't know to crimp the first connection at the range hood, or don't own a crimping tool, etc. In a correct design, the "big end" of each pipe points towards the air inlet. In the case of a range hood, the "air inlet" is the big hood over your range. The "small end" (aka "crimped end") of each duct section always points towards the exhaust...period. Any other layout is substandard. Someone screwed up, or cut a corner. Sorry for your sake.

I got a viking hood and double separated blowers (600 CFM each). My existing ducts are 6" only, but the viking hood has a 10" exit. I was thinking about installing only 1 of the blowers and using the existing duct with a reducer (especially because the actuall need of my cooktop would be around 500 CFM). What would you advise?

[@erikbergstrom451]

Its important to note that most of my advice pertains to the ventahood product. I am not as familiar with viking brand products and the model you are working with. I would recommend reaching out to viking with this question. They may advise you it can be run with a single motor.