Dug up my 5 Yr Old Fig Trees - Look What I Found

Zone 7A - Greater Philadelphia
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[@terencekopietz8861]

I have a Chicago hardy in zone 4b. It survived -27 with -50 wind chill. I got a good mulch. I wrap it with burlap, cover with leaves, and then wrap with plastic to waterproof.

[@VincentDaniels-hn1hp]

Did the split fig trees survive?

[@kicknadeadcat]

My neighbor gave me a couple of 100 free bricks that I use around all my fig trees. I also lay down a 3 by 3' piece of black landscape material under them. All my 1st year trees survived in the ground in South Eastern PA zone 7A with minimal protection. But all died back to about about a foot to 2'. And all fruited except one which just wanted to grow. I'm hoping the 2nd season more of the wood will survive.

[@TheSQLPro]

Informative video. I'm curious about the trees out back next to your house. Have those roots damaged the foundation of your house?

[@decentparks3597]

My Chicago hardy is around 10 feet tall. It grew around 6 feet this year and produced around 6 ripe figs. It has been in the ground 2 years now. The way I can tell if the fruit is super ripe and tasty is if there are tiny ants all over it. The flavor is super sweet and a bit citrusy but not that complex flavor wise. Do not pick them early.

[@tarekharb8978]

I also believe that planting them higher also helps with drainage, which is extremely important to production and fruit quality. As always great video Ross.

[@trevorsalloum3643]

Great video Ross! In regards to planting the fig trees so close to the foundation. Do you have any concern about root invasion into the concrete?

[@inharmonywithearth9982]

They used to say that planting hardwood trees deep was good but now they say it stunts them because below a couple feet there is very little oxygen or fungal or microbial activity. If you go see a bulldozed area that was forest you will see even the over one hundred foot trees have no root deeper than 3 feet maximum.

[@thenewmsm]

I thought fig trees have more invasive roots. That's why I am afraid to plant my figs in the ground here in Cali since I have a fairly small backyard. I heard stories of how fig roots destroyed PVC pipes and house foundations.

[@PracticalPrimate]

In warmer climates the do get pretty massive root systems very quickly. I was worried about them affecting my other trees (medium - high density orchard) and so grow them in large wicking containers made from half 200 L drums.

[@666Necropsy]

thanks for the update on the in ground trees ross. i hope you will let us follow along as those trees up against the house fruit. i can imagine how hard it was to dig that tree up. i dug 6 of my 3-4 year in ground trees up. i learned the same thing and wasnt happy with the planting deep method. im working on creating some new planting systems, planting taller out of the ground. im trying to use a pine tree on a hill. as the pine tree blocks most rain fall but still lets light under. underneath the tree the soil is extremely dry and dusty. also im moving in some landscaping rocks on the lower part. trying to create a cliff/ raised bed. i hope to take advantage of the dry environment and add heat units. this should also create a root crowding effect.

[@dracodempseyeisenhart3804]

Also roots do not get adequate oxygen if they are under a foot in clay soils. Oxygen is very important for roots!

[@RossRaddi]

dracodempsey Eisenhart I'm sure they get some!

[@dracodempseyeisenhart3804]

@@RossRaddiive heard at a foot and half oxygen levels go dowm dramatically in clay soils, sandy soils have oxygen available further down and gravel type soils oxygen available in further. The more airspace around the soil particles the more oxygen in the soil, in comparison sand particle would be like bowling balls vs clay particles would be like strips of confetti. Plants vary on how much oxygen is required, figs require less oxygen then say for example avocadoes and cherries(not the wild ones).Many types of fruit trees are now planted commercially above ground level in clay soils. dave Wilson recommends this for some fruit trees as well.

[@myroslavajacklitsch6039]

Thank you very much for a very informative video!

[@roccoconte2960]

Good video Ross , dont worry to much just plant at a normal depth, i always did threw the years and it always came out fine , its the winter protection that seems to make the most difference.

[@skullcollector29]

Cool......! You mind saying the temperature at the moment you start recording the vids ....Just saying Im in Long Branch NJ and will be interesting to know ..Thank's a lot for your time Ross.

[@Pinkstone1111]

My fig tree gave fruits in the 5th year and we're very suit! But then home insurance said it tilted the wall with it's roots which I don't think was the case!

[@RossRaddi]

Doubtful.

[@aliannarodriguez1581]

Hmm. I really hope they aren’t a foundation problem. I have a ten year old Celeste planted against the south facing wall of our home and it’s huge, probably 25 feet high and at least 15 feet wide. Zone 7a.

[@nmnate]

I really think you'll only get consistent success if your trees get adequate drainage and substantial above ground protection (both feeder roots near the surface and wood above ground). While planting deep really does ensure the survival of the tree, it'll suffocate if you don't have well draining soil. My trees always seem to grow better the more aerating my potting mixes are. Thus far I'm happy with potted figs (5-7 gallons seems to be a very nice size to deal with). I'll stick to early and mid-season varieties and be happy with what I can get. The novelty is wearing off, I'd rather have more reliability. Really liking ribes and jujubes right now, but I digress... :)

[@bosquebear1]

Good information.

[@wesfredricks2543]

Plant em high and tight! Zone 9A here.

[@charlesbvc]

A question related to this. Someone told me you can bury a container with large holes drilled into the sides allowing roots to travel freely as if it were an in ground. Then in the fall you cut the roots at each hole and overwinter just like any other container. Is this a thing and have you experimented with this?

[@antsgun]

I'm trying that experiment this summer.

[@RossRaddi]

B. C. Yeah. We did a video on this. It's called semi-buying. I do not recommend.

[@nabedono]

Lou Monti from New Jersey is talking about his experience in burying his fig in a grow bag with holes on it on his video. Probably using a grow bag makes difference in keeping the good drainage. Watch around 2:00 in the video. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2eqdWx5j65lrcU

[@Iloveorganicgardening]

thanks Ross. what if you planted deep but hulled up around the trunk as it grows? seems like that would give you the best of both ideas. we got down to 34 on my thermometer last night... fortunately, I covered my tomatoes that were planted out and brought my plants in cups inside. should be the last night close to freezing here

[@RossRaddi]

Organic Gardening in North Carolina hilling soil around the trunk will net a positive end result, but you'd also be cooling the soil until it roots into the top layer.

[@id_billn7ghg554]

Does your ground freeze like it does here? We are in S Idaho and it does freeze to a depth of about a foot plus in a bad year. We are at about 2,600 feet altitude.

[@RossRaddi]

Major Drive it does, which is why in the winter, you need to insulate the soil. Keep the soil above 15F.

[@id_billn7ghg554]

@@RossRaddi I don't know if mine gets to 15.. but it might. We don't often get into the low teens but it may not get much above 30 during the day...

[@Pinkstone1111]

I have cut the fig tree, but the roots have spread deep down and all around. Can I cut parts of roots and plant in pots? Will they resprout into stems?

[@robertbrawley5048]

So deep planted fig trees . The roots are too cool 50° Fahrenheit rather than the desired 78 ° Fahrenheit

[@karenashby4541]

Why didn't you cut off half the root and replant it higher I believe you would have same year heavy fruiting. Then you would have 4 plants.

[@DemetriosLevi]

My man! My Chicago hardy is going on it's second year this season: no die back in this super mild winter (10F or so in SE Michigan). I put rocks around my soil but also but a week ago I put some greenhouse plastic around a small cage to let in some extra warmth...is this a good idea or should I just ditch it? It's open on top and the cage is only 2 ft in diameter

[@RossRaddi]

Demetrios Levi if the top is open, I can't imagine it giving much heat.

[@DemetriosLevi]

@@RossRaddi when I stick my hand inside, it's significantly warmer, especially on sunny days. Do you also recommend that I snip the top bud? It's only one single stem and though there is no die back, I'm not sure if pruning is a good idea or not...what do you think?

[@thetobaccoguy1751]

Why did you prune down all your in ground trees vs. wrapping them?

[@RossRaddi]

Hans S. The method I used was less time consuming. This past fall was extremely busy for me.

[@666Necropsy]

i am one zone colder than ross. i made a big structure around my trees. it was still to cold and none of the top wood survived. ross is probably in the same boat.

[@tomapostolis]

By cutting it down like you've done, how much fruit production would you get that year vs not cutting it down and just wrapping and burrying it?

[@thetobaccoguy1751]

@@666Necropsy Really? I am zone 6B, about the same as Ross, just further west in PA. I wrapped in burlap, then stuffed with pine straw and leaves. So far, I'm seeing growth on at least the lower half of my trees, and they are still coming out of dormancy.

[@thetobaccoguy1751]

@@666Necropsy Also, I just put my trees in last spring. They weren't cuttings, and stood about 3 feet tall, but still had very new root systems.

[@babichevi7950]

Some traditions are worth keeping and some are not.