e114: Getting Your Old RC Car Back on the Road! Part 1: Gearbox & Motor

[@IowaBudgetRCBashers]

Try using Tub O Towels for cleaning the crease and crud out of the gearboxes. It will take all the goo away, and will not affect plastics, lacquer, etc. I use them on vintage guitars, and my vintage RC cars as well.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Never heard of it. Ill check it out!

[@charlesyoung8600]

Hot water and dawn dish liquid works great. If its good enough to clean oil off baby ducks, its good enough for an rc car.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Dawn is right. That stuff rips grease off anything

[@Freddie44utube]

Good to see the tiny shaft in the centre of the diff that so many people loose

[@AMPROEngineering]

Haha, I know.

[@FordFan01]

Very useful for my vintage Blackfoot! Thank you for the tutorial!

[@AMPROEngineering]

No problem! I had to break the video up since it was on target for 45 min! Haha!

[@FordFan01]

AMPRO Engineering wow!

[@AMPROEngineering]

Oh yeah.

[@IowaBudgetRCBashers]

If you can’t find com drops or your motor is really gooey, a can of Deoxy It D5 works well. It cleans all the connections, and lubricates at the same time, and is readily available online. It’s meant for cleaning and lubricating potentiometers and sliders on guitars and sound equipment.

[@AMPROEngineering]

That's a good point. I used that a few times and its awesome

[@GTMatukka]

Hello! Is there a part 2 existing? Amazing, you sound and talk like one of my relatives, he's into RC also and designs RC stuff. Wonderful 😎

[@AMPROEngineering]

Haha, no it does not but I am working on the next one.

[@classicvwbugs]

@@AMPROEngineering I am awaiting Part 2 Too! =o)

[@acereport8939]

I was having a problem with an old TT02’s gearing. I was only able to get a 22 toot pinion working because of an issue with the aftermarket motor mount it’s using. The 22 tooth pinion was too much for a stock motor, so I installed a 35 turn motor and it works perfectly. I don’t remember being able to buy 35t, 45t, and 55t motors back in the day and they are quite affordable nowadays, so it’s fun to try different things. I’ve burned up some stock brushed motors by simply using lipo batteries. Modern higher turn motors can be good alternatives for vintage RC’s, especially if you’re planning on running lipo.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Really? I run all my cars on Lipo with stock motors. Are you running 3S?

[@acereport8939]

AMPRO Engineering No, only 2s lipo. It’s happened to several of my cars and my friends too. Here’s an example; My Redcat Ground Pounder burned out 2 stock motors on 7.4v lipo batteries. The first motor to go was the original, then it burned up a Traxxas Titan 12 turn 550 motor and eventually the ESC went. Now it’s running perfectly on a $5 Chinese ESC and a 25 turn motor. I never changed the stock gearing as I would have to modify the motor mount. Having the right motor made a huge difference. Now, it runs very well on just NIMH. Nothing is overheating and it has plenty of power, even, without lipo.

[@catatonicbug7522]

I really wish this was an RC 10 or JRX2 you were rebuilding. I had a grasshopper before my JRX2, and it died at the track. I still have my car and want so badly to run it again!

[@AMPROEngineering]

I have to continue on with the series. Since then I have updated many RC10's

[@martinneps9387]

What motor would you put in a monster beetle and A Brat Subaru what motor would you put in these 2RC cars please comment back and what speed control would you do please let me know thank you so very much for this video I just got done from cleaning A motor that I have in a king Blackfoot Thank you again for this video

[@AMPROEngineering]

I only run the stock silver can motors.

[@martinneps9387]

@@AMPROEngineering OK yeah I want to go a little bit faster

[@martinneps9387]

@@AMPROEngineering What kind of hopped up motor would you put in the monster beetle or the Brat Truck to go just a little bit faster than stock please comment back thank you very much

[@Ratpack30]

Have no clue if you'll see this but here goes. You talked a little about motors. I have a retro blitzer beetle and were thinking of putting a 13t or 15t motor in it. Do you think i should have higher turn in it? My esc that came with the car didn't seem to like it so i switched to a better esc.

[@AMPROEngineering]

So the faster you go, the more you will break. My blitzer has a 16T and I think that is pushing it to be honest.

[@seanf12012]

This is my first car I had. Then I got a terra scorcher at the time that was a fantastic car. Would like another one.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Oh nice! It is a good car.

[@randomrodent9124]

I am not an expert at all, but I was a bit surprised to see how much play between the gears it was at 13:06. These gears are brand new, and after some use the play will increase even more.. It is possible adjust gear connection slightly on many of the fixed motor position gearboxes by pressing the motor towards or from the spur gear (whatever needed) concurrently with tightening the motor screw. Look forward to see the follow up video(s) on this Falcon rebuild :-)

[@AMPROEngineering]

Really? Usually I have more play on 32 pitch gears. There will be wear and this aluminum pinions do not hold up well against the nylon counter gear.

[@randomrodent9124]

After a small web-search I have now seen that Tamiyaclub has good manuals for this and other cars, (I did not know this earlier). It appears to me that the manual is using the other two mounting holes for 18 t pinion. You may check out yourselves. (I also have experienced that the Alu pinions suffers from wear).

[@AMPROEngineering]

They are both for the 18t pinion? Odd, when it is placed in the other mounting hole, it locks the gears up. Now I need to look.

[@randomrodent9124]

The two pair of mounting holes are for 18t and 19t pinion respectively. My impression from several vintage Tamiya cars is that there can be rather tight contact between pinion and main gear when new built. I have used to apply grease and when installing motor hold around the motor near gearbox and pull motor opposite direction of main gear concurrently with tightening the two motor screw. The pinion and main gear will adapt rather soon after some runs, since the Alu pinion is rather soft. If for example you have two equal cars, maybe Hornets (?), one with brand new gears and one used, you will (probably), when turning the rear wheels slowly with your hands, notice the motor magnets more on the used car compared with the new car. This is because there may be more friction between gears on the new car "hiding" the 6 positions the motor comes to rest. (pending similar motor magnets on the two cars).

[@AMPROEngineering]

Yeah that is what I was thinking. For me, the gap in the mesh is perfect. It is 32P so usually they have some slop. I also never really grease my nylon gears since they are self lubricating. So far I haven't had an issue.

[@afrog2666]

When I get my re-issue hornet, I`m just gonna do a 14T double and a ROTARY MECHANICAL regulator :D It`s impossible to drive, but great fun, and it`s what I had.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Wow, yeah may be impossible but fun!

[@NordicRC]

Great vid. Great job in explaining things. I have a couple of times used motor cleaner to clean the gears and the inside of the gear box. Do you think that will damage the plastic as you mentioned? Suggestion: an explanation of brushed motors? Not how they work, but the difference between ‘modified’ and ‘stock’. I thought all non-cans where modified. Maybe I’m not the only one who lacks some of this basic knowledge :-)

[@AMPROEngineering]

Well, they should not harm the plastics but the chemicals are super aggressive so I don't even attempt that. You treat your cars like I do so the less junk we spray over the plastics, the better. As for the motors, that is a great idea! I like these how to videos and that is a question I am asked a lot.

[@NordicRC]

AMPRO Engineering You’re probably right. I think I’ll just start to wipe it off. Sounds good with the video!

[@pacbeltrr38]

That sounds like a great idea! Many people have no idea what a Twelve Turn Triple is, and also many were mislead over recent years, that the higher the Turns - the MORE Torque a Motor has!! 😫😫😫😱 *NO!!!* Yeah, that's why 13 Turn Motors can completely SHRED a Gearbox - - *not enough Torque!* If that formula makes sense to you.....we may need to talk! 😱😱 Higher Turn Motors (45-55-80T), give a little better low speed *control* because their top speed is increasingly reduced, the higher the Turns get. You actually get increasingly *LESS Torque,* the more Turns you have! Wide Open, an 80 Turn Motor will barely spin over 9000RPM!!! An 8 Turn Triple - not only has Tire Shredding Torque, but also Gearbox Shredding Torque!!! 😨 ...... Some info from my Sister's Electrical Engineering Professor. 😎 Merry Christmas!! ⛄🎅🎄 Carmine 🚂

[@pacbeltrr38]

.......... Whilst I'm throwing my 2¢ around - on my RC Rigs, unless it's got Marine Grease in it, I usually get decent results with nothing more than warm water and Dawn Dish Soap! That stuff EATS Grease.

[@modelnutty6503]

+Nordic RC Visions here ya go, stock motor basics. Associated/Reedy etc, stock 05 is 27 turns and 20 degree advanced brush timing, about 50% more power and 25% higher rpm (under load) than a similar Mabuchi 540 can motor. modified stock brush timing is about 26-27 degrees advanced, outlaw stock was 32-34 degrees advanced and they run shorter time, get hotter, everywhere! can, magnets, armature windings, commutator, brushes. if you'd caught my comment in a different video about my old racing days, I'd put a ball bearing in the motor's output shaft end but leave it a bushing in the end bell for track judge car inspectors, doing it without visual clues of it was challenging. also used 750 size motor magnets as a budget "motor zapper", old school fun and games. +PacbeltRR it's kinda difficult call, there's only so much room for magnet wire on an armature. higher turns will give more torque lower rpm generally, until you smack into the ceiling of smaller gage wire inability to carry high current, the smaller and longer it is, the higher it's internal resistance (overall). the advantages of crawler motors is LONG run time and good torque at the lower rpm (considering the lower current draw) but a crawler is getting it's torque and power through gearing anyhow. low turn motors can deliver crazy torque and RPM, for so much current flying through them, mentioned above, yeah they get HOT, and short lived too but hey when you have 5000mah LiPo to spin/burn their guts out its sure fun while it lasts! (same applies to brushless motors pushed to extremes) my favorite HOT 05 motor back when was branded a "427 4WD", was a 14D 26 degree BB'd beast I used in scratch built direct drive outrigger hydroplanes. they'd do 36-37 mph on 7 Sanyo SCR, drain it in 3.5 minutes tops, for its day (1990) "balls to the walls fast!" for 6-7 cell packs (octura x432 prop btw). really got into scratch building the fast electric boats, hull with all the hardware and electronics can be done for 40 bucks or less, and a whole LOT of fun.

[@modelnutty6503]

agree, even a nicer endbell type brushed motor, in older Tamiya it's safer to stick to a 18-20 degree (brush timing advancement) stock motor, not "super stock" 30-34 degree advanced. heat disk, yes you can use thin (like shoe box) cardboard if you don't have the fiberglass one, it'll insulate the heat a lot better than nothing! don't know if you remember motor socks, little cloth bag that'd stretch over your motor to keep dirt out, that you could also wet to help keep heat down. nearing 200 degrees they'd start steaming heat away, wet+airflow helped chill some too. maybe kinda nice where there isn't room to add a clip on heatsink. scary how badly meshed and chewed up that old counter-gear was, grub screw popped loose and wham! seeing that I'd about recommend using a toothpick point drop of loctite to prevent that.

[@AMPROEngineering]

I didn't think about using cardboard. I mean it isnt great but it is better than nothing. I do remember motor socks...man that was scary!

[@nighthawkj30A4]

Most of the Rc motor back then where rebranded Yokomos specially the reedy stuff. I have a vintage Warlock Racing motor the pink one.

[@AMPROEngineering]

I think I have that one too!

[@nighthawkj30A4]

@@AMPROEngineering also some vintage Warlock Racing Brand Bushes still in the bag. Have to be maybe 25 years old. The Hobby to me was more serial back then. Some of the stuff feels like toys like traxxas. That why i like the Nitros and tamiyas there built better.

[@ShenRC]

Good video, since I am a skilled driver I would have put a 12 turn in it! LOL!! =)

[@AMPROEngineering]

Oh jeez....

[@ShenRC]

LOL! =)

[@ss9c1]

I put a speed gems garnet [13t double] in my Stadium Blitzer...., soooo many dead dog bones, but my gearbox held up. But, I also mounted my rear shocks on the rear carrier, opposite the upper arms, I liked the setup better than stock, but it may have contributed to the dead dog bones.

[@ShenRC]

I put a mild brushless system in my blitzer beetle..have some nice vids of it on my channel =)

[@modelnutty6503]

saw that Shen, oh that poor beetle, they just weren't built to handle power/torque like that! on the other hand, something 2840 2845 size in 3600-4000kv (smaller pinion too) could better the performance of most 05 sized brushed motors and give nice long run time. brushed usually 60-70% efficiency where BL gets closer to 90%. for the old Tamiya's it's likely a really good 2S conversion solution.

[@brucebenner7606]

hi you said that u use a motor plate (Tamiya Motor Plate 58210)with all plastic gear box thats not true only on some tamiya not all of them eg the hornet,grasshopper dont use the plate using a screwdriver to put the oil on the rotor not a good idea use something softer cuz in the tamiya manual u use a rubber to clean the rotor i would have pulled the motor dont then drop some oil on the rotor then put it back together again clean the rotor too nice video

[@AMPROEngineering]

Oh my hornets and grasshoppers have the plates. Did they not come with them and I just decided to use them anyway? That is totally possible. Yeah usually I do clean the rotors but on a lot of my cars they are pretty darn clean already!

[@mikeymike3240]

Hi again, great video, really informative and educational. I just had a light 💡 bulb moment, could you 3D print smaller arms for the holiday buggy DT -02 chassis to make the wheels fit under the body properly. I know how technicaly minded you are. Have you ever thought about doing it before. 😀 👍 👍 👍 👍

[@AMPROEngineering]

Actually yes! I have but I do not have the car to try it on.

[@mikeymike3240]

AMPRO Engineering awwwwww

[@weberbuiltweber1908]

I hope billet will soon be an option to some 3d parts of yours. What you have is great though.

[@modelnutty6503]

filament for 3D printing has been getting better for making tougher parts, some of the smaller parts in aluminum would be very cool though!

[@AMPROEngineering]

For what parts? Often, metal parts installed on plastic cars make everything around them break. I have printed metal arms for the CW01 and they are amazing.

[@weberbuiltweber1908]

Not any part in particular. If you added cnc and molding I could see you manufacturing your own complete kits.

[@AMPROEngineering]

I hear you man. Sadly, there is no money in old RC's like this and CNC parts and molds cost tens of thousands of dollars. I looked at a cheap aluminum mold for some a-arms I made. I called a guy that makes my molds and he quoted me at 1100 for the parts I needed. At that cost, plus time, hardware, shipping and advertisements, I would need to sell around 700 of them to break even. 3D printing seems to be the way to go for now.

[@modelnutty6503]

Alberto I hope you see another comment I'd thrown down about "evaporative casting". you really could go high heat (red) RTV silicone around a part, carefully cut it open, make pouring and sprue paths (venting too naturally) and use the silicone mold to make the waxes. after that it's sprue up many parts, investment plaster and aluminum. I hear ya about breaking plastic peripherals, aluminum can be soft or hard (bendable or brittle) depending on how it's drawn down, opposite of steel approximately if I remember correctly, heated and quenched = soft. if a part got bent not broken, it could be removed, straightened, and reinstalled (sometimes anyway).

[@weberbuiltweber1908]

Make your parts a billet option please. Or injection molded of good stuff. Its obvious you have the skills.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Well, billet would cost a fortune for such a small run and molds would cost thousands of dollars per part so right now, 3D printing is the most viable option. Maybe one day...

[@modelnutty6503]

Alberto maybe not.... got any college buddies with access to CNC milling? you already have the geometry and tool paths, if tweaked inside out, plastic injection molds. another possible is run epilene in 3D printer, melts and flows like wax. plant the parts into investment plaster, vacuum bell vibration to chase out the bubbles, let harden then pour in the aluminum, lot cheaper than billet machining time. after a proto run, you can make a high heat RTV silicone mold for making the "waxes" (or epilene) to sprue up, to pour many many parts in one shot. just might be a lot more cost effective (cheaper parts higher profit?) than the 3D printing time, or going with plastic injection molding. you could throw paint on them, custom anodize (color them "rough"), or just polish the livin peepee out of them and hit with UV clear coat (hey buyers break out your dremels). cast may not be as pretty as billet but hey.

[@pacbeltrr38]

Alberto, you've given me a LOT to think about here! Even some things to bring up - but no Debate or disagreements. First - *Merry Christmas* my friend!!! ⛄🎅🎄 Second, that old motor you ended up with, is that an old 27-turn "Stock Motor"? Adjustable Endbell? Timing?? More often than not, I ran Trinity in Stock Class, back in the 80's. We had several "tweaks" for those Stockers.... Like, BENDING the Endbell screws, to give that little extra sliver of Timing Advance! 😱 ~ One of my favorites, I borrowed from Model Train motors.... unless the Armature was Epoxy dipped, I would put the Armature assembly in a Brass Jawed Vice, then *carefully* slide the individual Armature Plates to form a level but Skewed Armature. This ONLY works, when you have just a little slack in the Windings. WHY?? A Skewed Armature, Especially in a 3-Pole Motor, spreads the magnetic pull over a larger area. I would gain an average of 500-800RPM, and it was something that Techs and Marshalls would NEVER think of looking for!!! Plus - MUCH more lower end Torque, for powering out of corners. [Despite being a Professional Race Car Driver (1:1!), I was never the best RC Driver!! This gave me a small edge] ANOTHER Benefit (much more for Crawlers and Scalers), greatly improved *low* end Torque, with far less Cogging!! 👍👍 This was much of the inspiration behind Holmes Hobbies releasing their *5-Pole* Crawler Motors. Higher Torque, in a much lower RPM range!! OK, enough of that trip down Memory Lane... You're SO right, Bearings are so cheap nowadays, it seems like a crime NOT to use them! There IS one stopgap, just in case Bearings aren't readily available (like, if you DON'T live in SoCali!!!! 😛).... Many base models in recent History, have come with sintered Bronze Bushings. STILL better than plastic CRAP! The only thing to really note is, they need a tiny drop of light oil lubricant...... FREQUENTLY! However, they can be quite satisfactory. I've purposely used these Bushings at any exposed locations, when doing some Beach Bashing. SURE IS better than chewing up a set of Bearings, within 2 Batteries!!! Any idea if the Stadium Blitzer Main Chassis is ANY more reinforced or beefed up at any spots??? Reason I ask, I may Restore my vintage Falcon...... and then build a more "Resto-Mod" version, using whatever aftermarket parts that are available, and of course, AmPro Engineering parts! 😉 {*MAYBE* some non Stock Bracing for the front Bulkhead to the Main Chassis - maybe even some Rear Gearbox bracing} HEY! You've worked small Miracles with the lowly Base Buggy range....why not? Something to "play" with, and if I'm around any other old Fart RC'ers like me........ *Freak Them Out* by bashing a "Classic"!!! 😜😜 I sincerely hope that you and your Family have a Wonderful, Joyous Christmas and a Happy New Year!!! Cindi and I send our best, and also ask if you could cross fingers, or if you Pray.....PRAY. OUR Christmas is a nightmare! No decorations, No Presents, No Dinner, No TREE!! No money. Our situation has snowballed with the birth of our Granddaughter, Erza Scarlet. The poor thing it slightly over a Month old - but STILL not at her "due date" yet. Still under 5lbs, still very sick. She survived Open-Heart Surgery in her first week of life! She's got so many problems.... extra fingers, no Ears, missing THREE Ribs! AND, the Hospital is talking about RELEASING Her!! Not only is She not ready, but WE aren't ready - Especially Financially!!! She's going to need SO much that Insurance DOESN'T cover, and we have no chance of affording. We REALLY need help, like 3 Months ago. We're literally against the Wall. Me asking directly, has done little more than lose me a bunch of friends.... Do you know anyone?? Can YOU help? paypal.me/pacbeltrr God Bless and Merry Christmas! Carmine and Cindi & Family

[@modelnutty6503]

aww hell why didn't I think of that!! twisting the arm plates to more resemble the internals of an AstroFlight cobalt... you're an evil genius, lmao! the straight cogging is definitely a power and rpm robber, that twist also affecting the overall brush timing and start to finish magnetic field width.

[@pacbeltrr38]

As much as I'd LOVE to take credit for that.... Having an Electrical Engineer as an Uncle really helped!! 😉 Yeah we definitely had an edge....... Until they started *handing out Stock Motors* before each Heat! 😭 I think they were on to us, but couldn't figure out why!! Carmine 🚂

[@AMPROEngineering]

Ha! Great idea

[@beautynads]

I thought the two correct pinion sizes for the Falcon were 17 and 19 tooth.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Very interesting, so you had the option to change them. Makes sense since it was supposed to be more up market.

[@markmiguel7508]

Have you been able to make Part 2 yet?

[@AMPROEngineering]

No....haha! Trust me I will!

[@Andrew-bv6qc]

Super nice i have a futaba fx10 do you know if it’s the same as the falcon it seems really similar I was just wondering because I was going to get the front suspension you make

[@AMPROEngineering]

I also have an FX10. The cars are similar but at the rear and not the front. Isn't the front suspension from a Hornet?

[@Andrew-bv6qc]

AMPRO Engineering it might be from a hornet thanks

[@ss9c1]

The stock front FX-10 suspension was FX-10 only until Tamiya released the Sonic Fighter. The Striker suspension can be swapped in, as all 3 share a basic chassis design. CRP [and hopefully you too Alberto] has an improved front suspension design, that can be modified to work with the "Hopper & Hornet. The rear, it is very similar and shares axles with the Falcon.

[@NomadismeExperimental]

Lemon Pledge will remove all grease with no damage.

[@AMPROEngineering]

I have never tried that! Ill give it a go!

[@chrisfossum1499]

Did you get around to doing episode 2?

[@AMPROEngineering]

It is done but right now I am dealing with a lawyer about Coppa. This channel falls into a grey zone and it is likely it will be shut down. I need to sort this before I post anything. Cross your fingers.

[@dudethatsaguy]

whats your opinion on using lipo batteries on brushed motors?

[@modelnutty6503]

only 0.2 to 0.3v more isn't the real issue, but most older brushed motor ESC's don't have a Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) for preventing over draining your battery pack. if you know your car and stop running as quick as you see it slowing down go for it, just know about that risk. a good quality LiPo charger can balance charge/drain to a proper battery storage/voltage level with the flip of a switch, I'd recommend doing it right after running to try to minimize risk of LiPo damage. there's still 7 cell 8.4v NiCad or NiMh battery packs available, you can run those down pretty hard and be ok. you might find brushed motor ESC with the LVC feature if you look for. got lucky in eBay finding NiMh 6 cell packs (black and 3000mah) that carry an actual 15C rating (45 to 50A no prob!) on them, they CAN handle running my old electric model boats that have been upgraded to brushless motors and ESC's (water rockets!). they make on road and off road RC cars pretty zippy too. the blue shrink wrapped 3800mah 6 cell packs, don't bother! they're cheap cells with flimsy connector bars inside that'll GLOW AND BURN if you try to pull high current out of them, total junk!

[@AMPROEngineering]

That is what I use. Like Model Nutty said, it work make much of a difference. What is a bigger problem is Lipo's with old esc's that dont have cut offs. You need to run lipo alarms on them.

[@AMPROEngineering]

I have had so many issues with modern NiMh packs that I did away with the lot. Like you said, lipo alarms are critical! My biggest issue with lipo's are the weight. On some older cars, the added load of the pack helped handling.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Robert Green well I think it depends on the motor power and the gear box. The gearbox on the Hornet will survive being driven by a blown big block where the gearbox on the KingCab will explode when a hamster wheel is attached. None of my brushless cars have metal gears or gearboxes and are solid but there are those out there that run way too high a power motor on way too weak of a box.

[@pinmandan5164]

NO grease is the gearbox ?

[@AMPROEngineering]

I don't use any with nylon. Certain nylon is self lubricating and often times can be degraded by incorrect lubricants. It also causes drag. I do use is where plastic and aluminum meet as the nylon or abs will wear down the soft aluminum gears (common for Tamiya pinions).

[@beautynads]

I use white lithium grease on all my Tamiya gearboxes and I have had no problems.

[@weberbuiltweber1908]

When I said complete kits I meant ones to compete with best available track cars today.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Oh, Well maybe that will be a future project.

[@rickahrens5994]

Anyone hear of a X4, by World Engines? Looking for a pic to restore.

[@AMPROEngineering]

Shoot I have not. I did a google search and got nothing. How old is it?

[@loquitos1972]

I use Dasty for degreasing stuff. Mostly used it for cleaning my motorcycles rims. Don't know if you can get in the US but in the Netherlands it is. See www.dastyitaly.it/ol/det_prodotto.asp?ID=55

[@AMPROEngineering]

I have never seen that. I will try and locate some. Thanks!

[@demofilm]

The mabuchi silver can is the best,,, a bl motor can rip teeth or frames

[@AMPROEngineering]

My favorite.