E4OD/4R100 TCC /PWM” LOCKUP SYSTEMS EXPLAINED” RABBIT HOLE STYLE!!! Pt .7

We’re going deep into this system and making Shit happen here at Sanders Garage! It’s a good one !

[@johnbowers2163]

Mr Sanders my name is John, I am a 66 year old mechanic and I am in the proses of building a E4OD to go behind a 525 HP 7.3 power stroke. I have found your videos very informative and I appreciate listening to someone who actually knows their stuff. Keep up the good work. John Bowers Klamath Falls Oregon

[@marshallsanders5672]

I love it ! It warms my heart hearing comments like this you got this my friend more to come !

[@dennyo3992]

I’m so grateful for your contribution to the automotive community. Found you because I’m dealing with an E40D in my F250 it’s leaking out of the pump and has oil in the shift solenoid plug and won’t go into any gear. You’re the first person to be able to explain to me exactly how the transmission is working and I’m in your debt.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank You ! Appreciate the Comment. It’s so important to understand how it works otherwise it’s a guessing game. Glad you got something from the video we definitely went deep on this one. No move condition on yours there is definitely something broke or stripped inside !

[@BoggessRaceing]

Your a master wizard of transmissions and your analogies are spot on! The baby diaper was genius!!😆 I think I'm jacked up enough to go tackle my e40d now. Going in deep wish me luck!🛠🛠🍻🍻

[@marshallsanders5672]

Love It ! its all about understanding how it works and the rest takes care of itself, You got this, be confident just don't get overconfident and you'll do fine.

[@jmstew642]

As a fellow gear head, I would like to say thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Every time someone learns, it advances our knowledge base. I do the same thing with every youngster that is interested... I will machine parts and give it to them, just because I like to see them trying... I have seen some crazy stuff work that I did not have any hope in... True advantage... Elon Musk speaks of this very thing... Your thoughts are phenomenal, spot on!

[@marshallsanders5672]

Awesome! Yeah it’s all about sharing knowledge, No one knows everything but as a collective we all seem to learn what we need! Really appreciate the comment!

[@mebusy2280]

I'm not just outta high school but I'm going to rebuild one of these right next to you! And to beat it all I'm a single mom trying to fulfill a daughters dream of having horses! Found a beautiful 97 7.3 truck with a blown transmission. Deal made! Came with an extra e4od to practice on! Thanks Marshall! I'll try to record what i do all the while throwing shout outs to Marshall Sr!

[@marshallsanders5672]

That's Awesome! Yur' a Beast for taking this on. Just remember 1 part at a time. I have enough videos up to rebuild your Entire transmission correctly. Just stay organized and clean when rebuilding it makes it so much easier. I wish you all the luck in making it happen. Recording your progress will be very beneficial should you need to go back and review things as your rebuilding. I don't get very many young ladies on my channel so welcome! The things we'll do for our Children! What happened to the original one, Symptoms/Problems? Do you have prior Mechanical experience?

[@josepharagon8259]

Wow…… the girl of my dreams… horses and a 7.3 Powerstroke…wish I was still young and daring.. Great job & best of luck.

[@briansmith9434]

I'm rebuilding my 96 f250 2wd E40D. First I want to thank you for the wealth of knowledge that you have to share. This is my 1st transmission rebuild. I'm glad that i came across your videos because i love how you go through every detail. Trust that you are going to be there with me every step of my rebuild lol. The reason I'm even rebuilding my transmission is one day at a stop sign I went to accelerate and I heard a pop. Then my truck lost the ability to move. Upon teardown I couldn't find anything in the transmission that would of caused this. As a matter of fact everything looks like new. It was kinda freaky. No clutch no unusual wear on anything and some of cleanest fluid I'd ever seen in a transmission. I am a mechanic and have seen all kinds of fluid. When I drained my fluid from the torque converter it sounded like something was definitely broken rolling around in there. Is there anything inside that would cause my symptom? I used my power prob and checked out my selonoid pack like you showed me. Then I did the air test. Everything checked out good. Scratching my head over hear lol.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Your very welcome, It’s all about sharing knowledge these days.Interesting for sure. There are only a few things inside a torque converter that would cause a total no move condition. 1 being a complete blow up where the impeller fins and or the turbine fins are destroyed and can’t transmit hydraulic power to the input shaft. That doesn’t seem to be the case here. I would drain the converter completely and first shine a light down in the converter and look at the splines where the input shaft splines spline to. See if there stripped. Second put the input shaft in and spin it. Most likely it will spin very free and seem not splined to the entire turbine assembly( from my video) possibly the splined hub broke free from the turbine fins causing the no move. Very rare but anything is possible. Also when spinning the input shaft notice any unusual grinding or crunching indicating something is indeed “broken” inside. Should be fairly easy to tell. Be sure to check ALL the splines on the hard parts inside the transmission drums/planets shafts etc. it will be obvious once you find it! Let us know the outcome.

[@moorecalimax]

When I was 14 I went to work with my brother with my brother at his new muffler shop and I learned it and I worked there for a long time and I used to be an eagle eye too I'm 55 now I went to work at the muffler shop when I was 14 and I worked there until 2003 so and I was born in 68 I moved to Oklahoma in 1999 and my next door neighbor had worked for general motors for 30 years rebuilding transmissions I would sit there and talk to him while he was rebuilding them not really paying too much attention cuz it seemed way too complicated I currently on a 97 4 x 4 it's got that e4od and I live in Yuma Arizona anyways anybody around you they can learn that and your son's video taping it the knowledge that he can possess is just incredible and I'm sure you agree with me watching your videos you have inspired me to rebuild my own you really break it down and simplify it because it's just common mechanical sense Can you recommend any type of kit or something else that is a must See we're down here on the border and it's pretty rough any type of kit or just another one of your easy pep talks

[@marshallsanders5672]

Wow that’s pretty deep my friend! I like deep, it’s people like you that keep me going because the way I do things is not the easy way but it is the right way to the best of my ability! I really appreciate your comment. All I can say is with your background in automotive you absolutely can make it happen. Just a little tweaking in being precise but not perfect and anyone with an automotive background can have success in a rebuild with the proper guidance! I have many videos on this transmission to get you through a rebuild properly. Transmissions are literally just a bit more complicated piece of machinery No more No less. Just be committed, very clean, and organized and you can have success as well. Again thanks for the comment I really appreciate it. Happy building. Most kits are the same except the clutches which I recommend Borg Warner in these. Just ask for them. “Whatever it Takes” transmission parts, PA Cargo and Transtar are the suppliers that I use.

[@josepharagon8259]

This is the info I need… what kits for the valve body…?… what torque converter.. do you sell and ship..???…❤

[@turbobobby1]

great video! you really dive deep and I really dig the way you go about discussing how it all works. keep spreading that knowledge, I appreciate the time you invest in sharing this invaluable information.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank You , it’s all about spreading knowledge these days. We can all never learn enough. I don’t know everything but I can confidently speak on these subjects so I do ! Thanks for your time, I trust you got a lot out of the video. They can be a bit lengthy but I hate only telling half a story so to speak !

[@douglasweingarten147]

Awesome content in the videos I've watched. And will continue to watch.Thank You very much..

[@marshallsanders5672]

Your very welcome!Appreciate you watching thanks for the comment!

[@marvinpostadan3484]

You are well appreciated! 50k subscribers soon!

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank you sir ! All good I hope you TRULY understand TCC/PWM at this point. Have a great day !

[@scottjamieson4965]

Hi Marshall, Absolutely brillant video man. Great content and the hand drawn diagrams very professional !! I must say all was explained very clearly. Regards, The Panelbeater New Zealand 👍

[@marshallsanders5672]

Love it ! Thank You Sir !

[@cletuspotter9140]

Damn good information dude thanks a lot. Rebuilding my first trans E40D 95 model you really helped me with this and learned how the torque converter works

[@marshallsanders5672]

Awesome, Its all about sharing knowledge in this day and age! Glad the video helped you out, Happy building my friend

[@dthetruckguy1499]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I really enjoyed your opening comments about the vow you made to share knowledge because of how others were not willing to share their knowledge with you. I told myself the same thing early in my career, and I too worked with a bunch of very good techs that were always too busy to share information, or to help me in diagnostics especially. I had to really study and teach myself in this area. So now that I specialize in diagnostics, i love to share what I have learned over the years, especially with younger ones who are just starting out like we were. A wise man once said “All things . . . that you want men to do to you, you also must do to them.” I really try to live by this principle, and it seems like you do as well.

[@marshallsanders5672]

100 % correct Sir ! I especially appreciate your comment for the reasons explained. In my opinion it’s all about sharing knowledge these days because us mechanics can’t even survive much less stay afloat with all this technology coming out . I listen deeply …. and share deeply ….that is my motto. I super appreciate the long comment. Keep em’ coming ! I know a lot but never enough. If we’re not learning we’re not living and that’s all the way to my grave ! Love it !

[@marshallsanders5672]

Also I R&R’d for 6 months and they could tell I was serious about my craft so they gave me a shot at building. Threw me at the bench and it literally was sink or swim for me. Me being the determined young man I opened books and got to WORK! Thank GOD it worked out ! Good Shit !

[@michaelluft2732]

Thank you for all you do I have a 95 f250 460 with a a4od the trAnny has to be rebuilt and what a great opportunity to learn thank you so much

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yes Sir your very welcome! I’m determined to put out good information on my channel.

[@sauladame8261]

Hola Master....te saludo desde Monterrey Nuevo León Mexico...exelente tu intención de compartir tu conocimiento.

[@chipschweiss]

I just found your channel this week. Wow, do I wish I'd known about you sooner! I've been fighting and learning about the E4OD in my '93 F-250 ever since I bought it in 2020. I'm down to one issue with the TCC that I must get fixed. I don't think it is ever locking. I've pulled and tested the solenoid pack; however, at the time, I have not yet seen your solenoid video, so it didn't get the air test. I did at least check resistance and put power to each solenoid to observe it operating. I've added an LED that lights on the TCC signal and a switch to manually activate the TCC. The signal is happening above 35 MPH, but it is never locking. So now I'm back to making sure the TCC solenoid is flowing, but I suspect it is because, as I understand from this video, if the plastic seats break on the solenoid, it will be flowing all the time, which would lock the converter all the time. I think I'm down to the converter itself needs to be replaced. Short of pulling the transmission and changing the converter, is there something else I can test to be sure?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Chip, Sounds like your on the case so to speak ! You are correct if the plastic is damaged or deformed it will flow all time and lock up all the time ! The only things in the lock-up circuit is the solenoid, then the lock-up valve in the pump (Which could be stuck off) , the Stator seal ( which could be worn out or damaged) and the Torque Converter itself ! Pretty strait forward hydraulic circuit but is a M Fr’ sometimes when lock -up problems arise ! Pretty cool you hooked up a LED light to the circuit and that ensures you the computer is “Commanding it on” Sounds like your solenoid is activating which leaves the Stator seal and Torque Converter to blame at this point. Good luck in fixing it. Let us all know how it turns out. I need to start an E4OD forum to get all u to ou guys information out there without the BS involved !

[@88mmFlaK]

Thanks for doing all that you do, helped me out a lot

[@marshallsanders5672]

You are very welcome! Appreciate the comment

[@the909ranger]

Fantastic Video, I will be watching and rewatching this and the E4OD build videos as I tear into mine. My torque converter lockup just failed out of the blue one day and I could not find this amount of detail anywhere, on the lockup fluid flow and what could actually cause it to fail, aside from the torque converter itself. Wonderful explanation!

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank you sir ! Everything I explained in this video should be EVERYTHING you need to correct the problem. I left some things out but will explain it all in my next video ! Welcome to the channel ! Good Stuff

[@the909ranger]

I was hoping you may lend me your expertise. Have you ever seen a stuck TCC Valve that would not allow the converter to lock up? My torque converter stopped locking up one day out of the blue. I have a manual tc lockup switch that has worked perfectly for the last 10 years, now it won't lock manually of on its own. In drive, at a stop, I hit the switch and it does nothing, not even a drop in rpm like it is trying to lock. I can hear the solenoid clicking from under the truck. I took the solenoid pack out and tested it per your video and everything tested good. At this point I don't know what else it could be, it shifts fine in all gears, no other signs of trouble, the fluid was clean when I drained it. Any ideas?

[@chipschweiss]

@@the909ranger I'm in a very similar situation. Did you find the root cause of your problem?

[@Roscotech]

A lot of times just for simplicity I would explain the torque converter or fluid coupling as two electric fans pointed at one another. Switch one fan on (the engine) and that would in turn force the other fan to spin. Except instead of air being used as a medium, much heavier fluid is being “thrown” onto the once stationary fan blade. It seems to work well as a medium to explain what’s happening to the customer who will likely never be doing any mechanical work.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yes Sir! You come correct on that. I originally was planning on showing it that way because I’ve seen that before and it’s a perfect analogy for what is happening! But for some reason it didn’t cross my mind when I was filming the video 🤔. Thanks for the comment

[@Jeepers1984]

Thanks so much I know it takes a LOT of time to put a video like this together!!

[@marshallsanders5672]

Your very welcome ! Really appreciate the comment because that one did take a lot but was happy to do it ! It’s all about “spreading the knowledge” !

[@19815389]

Great video Marshall, not sure how that stater got cracked, glad you found it , it probably was like that when I bought it I just didn’t catch it , I’ve seen some people use the input shaft and a hammer hit the shaft side to side back a forth to remove the pump that would be my guess, I haven’t been able to finish watching the video as it got late last night will continue tonight, great job Marshall on the filming

[@marshallsanders5672]

All good man I’ve used the method of pulling the pump that you just described many times before also. It is possible I suppose but I guess at this point it doesn’t matter we’re good with that and have good parts.

[@CRAY8790]

1st class machinist/ Mechanical Fitter, heavy fab and heavy Automotive mech, I have seen this alot through many components over the years, the Radius in the corner of that Stator shaft is to prevent it from snapping off , I would normally stick that housing in the lathe dial it in and machine a bigger lead in that corner I thoroughly enjoy your videos matey I learn alot from lots of different peoples knowledge and experiences keep up the good work I'll be watching and learning

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank you Sir ! Appreciate the comment ! Yep chocking it up in a lathe would be the shit but I don’t have access to one so that was my best solution. You never know what you’ll come across building transmissions which is one reason I love building them Good Stuff !

[@CRAY8790]

@@marshallsanders5672 Hi there , yes have to make do were you can , good content your putting into these videos full of information very tutorial I am highly liking how much your packing into them. Good stuff👍👍

[@FatBoy7.3Powerstroke]

Man, Another Great Video Marshall and High Five to the camera man, Great Job to both y’all guys. Now I’m thinking about the PWM effect and understand that I’m not too happy with that idea either. Slipping verses a good solid Lock Up makes me think of unnecessary wear and heat. Definitely like learning those small details cuz they make a big difference once they can be understood once I watch you go through it step by step, makes the purpose of their functions clear. Having a 4R100, I’m interested to see what kind of difference it will make with the ATS 5 Star Billet Torque Converter and the John Woods Valve Body I’m having installed. I’m curious if it’ll be a major difference. If I remember correctly, 1.25:1 is the normal torque multiplication and ATS says 2.4:1 is what their TC produces, I’ll know pretty soon

[@marshallsanders5672]

Jason, your really a good study of all this for sure You Get It! Those 2 things will definitely change the shifting characteristics of that trans dramatically. Stock setup is just plain WEAK. Let us all know how it turns out for sure!

[@FatBoy7.3Powerstroke]

@@marshallsanders5672 I’ll know soon, they’re getting the new parts on the engine as of Friday afternoon. They should have the body off the frame sometime this week

[@josepharagon8259]

At the beginning of, you showed a couple of pumps…were they different in size.. or was it just an optical illusion… maybe I should of got out my 175’s😊 great start to a great day… I changed my fluid yesterday on my Powerstroke. She’s not engaging I’m thinking it’s the bands… it’s done this mostly when hot. No metal in the pan but NO MAGNET EITHER… I am rebuilding it even if it works today on the test drive… it started pouring yesterday during the thermostat housing replacement..🤠

[@Shalash87]

Here is something to ponder. If the line converter is not filled - there is no coupling. So that means that the more pressurised the converter is - the less slippage will there be (don't want to go into hydrostatics, but let's accept it). Early Ford's for example the FMX, had what they called Compensator fluid circuit, which basically modulated line pressure to the rear of the PR valve and the Converter feed valve, and this fluid was biased to TV pressure and manual valve position, i.e. in low ranges and reverse the converter would get this 'boost'. Now, the reason why I am asking is that up until recently transmissions evolved around sprags (roller clutches, diodes), which where there more for the seamless operation, to avoid timing shifts (5L40 has 4 of them...). However, with the latest, I am seeing the opposite, the 6R80 1st gen for example had none, and only on the 2nd gen did they introduce one for the first gear. So this obviously leads me to wonder - what about smoothness and coasting, and driving in bumper-to-bumper, if engine braking is by default always on? To me the answer is - regulating the converter feed, since all of them have input shaft sensors, the moment the accelerator is lifted, pump power is cut and line pressure drops. This should cause the torque converter to slip a whole great more (despite being a stock low stall model). So effectively, you once again replicate the manual transmission's play with the clutching out during coasting. The question is - what happens during braking? Methinks you have a situation where the TCM senses the pressure applied to the brake pedal and under light braking, keeps the TC slipping, but should pedal force and increase - it should ramp up this line pressure to assist and downshift for better engine braking. Under emergency braking - apply the TCC and Low/Reverse and also, I presume, tell the ABS not to lock the wheels.

[@williamdillingham5781]

I went to a transmission school back in 2000 i was already too old for transmissions but I wish I had someone like you to be my instructor instead of the man that taught that class He mentioned that he had one more class and then he was retiring At the time my boss thought it was a great idea to have a transmission builder in house Now lately I wish I could have had the chance to go to school to learn these things

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yes Sir! There is a deep learning curve to transmissions for sure. Not easy but approached correctly most people can make it happen. It is a shame your teacher didn’t care enough to teach you properly! I am determined to put out good info for just those very reasons I Care!

[@okeechobeejoe2868]

Again awesome video, very informative. Marshall, what state do you live in ???

[@marshallsanders5672]

I live in Maryland

[@coperacingtrans]

Excellent video

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank You Sir! That means a lot coming from you guys!

[@coperacingtrans]

@@marshallsanders5672 I will be going over all your E4OD videos so I can learn more, I am in the process of developing a consistent pressure reverse manual valve body with trans brake.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Awesome! It’s all about learning in this business! We all have to learn from each other because no one knows everything. Sounds like a handful designing that valve body for sure! Very Cool 😎!

[@moorecalimax]

And I totally get that get that information to somebody else you're trying to pass on this knowledge and you know share knowledge which is just what the world is about

[@marshallsanders5672]

It’s all about learning! If we’re not learning we’re not growing ourselves and that doesn’t help anyone including ourselves!

[@AlanaCBair]

That was awesome! I now have a real idea of what the hell. Thank you Sir.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Love It! Your welcome glad you were able to grasp the content and understand what’s actually going on.

[@brandonpedersen6763]

my 4WD 98’ expedition with the early model 4R100 and you clarified fords design changes an explained simple ways I understood an appreciate. Kept wondering what difference was with the solenoid pack with the tcc solenoid having the pwm (can’t see the ball) and my original one the tcc has it and I can see them move like in your solenoid video. I had a problem where it wouldn’t shift into 4th years ago and ended up swapping solenoid pack had an orange plastic instead of blue and tcc was pwm and didn’t help changed accumulator valve body with rebuilt and started shifting into 4th again. Now 5 years later problem is engine stalls in reverse but filter was loose when lowered pan, I’m hoping that’s the fix. Thinking of putting my original non pwm on TCC solenoid pack back on this week with the new filter an fluid I learned more than expected enjoyed it all though, and the diaper analogy.. I wanted to know

[@marshallsanders5672]

Good explanation ! Yes the PWM TCC solenoid doesn't have a ball and seat and the snout of the solenoid is white. It sounds like you got the split year trans with 4R100 parts but has ON/OFF TCC lock-up. I would definitely change it back to the ON/OFF style TCC solenoid if that is what came originally. Some of the Early design 4R100's weren't PWM and yours looks to be one of those split year transmissions. I have seen that stalling problem MANY times because the filter came out of the pump. you can peen a few spots on the pan where the filter rides to help keep the filter up into the pump.

[@brandonpedersen6763]

Yes all you said right on the money its an early split year 4R100 and my original solenoid pack is like version 2/pg 29 in your solenoid video. When I put the one with the white plastic on tcc (not knowing as much back then) it didn’t help it shift to 4 but left it until now back into it , and like to make sure the valve bodies are good still while It’s easy and I’ll put the original solenoid pack back on the vehicles almost 130,000 now so I think it’ll keep working for awhile still thanks again for teaching

[@marshallsanders5672]

Great ! Good Comments it’s all about sharing knowledge these days. So many transmission problems can be solved just by these type of comments out there and clearing up the confusion ! Keep ‘em coming.

[@goenitzlopez2076]

This is gold

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank You Sir ! Appreciate the Comments .

[@Dramsmoto]

Thank you so much for all your videos Sir. Do you have a trick for cleaning out the 4r100 torque converters?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Unfortunately there is no guaranteed way to clean out a torque converter. All you can do is pour new fluid in it and spin the turbine with the input shaft and drain it out multiple times.

[@UnderSprayedWhiteSkies]

Hi Marshall, I have a 2003, F150 7700 w/4R100. This summer I'm going to re-furbish the truck and have a transmission guy rebuild the 4R100. I'm going to supply him w/the Transgo 4R100LU PWM Valve Assy. and the Transgo E4ODHD2 Reprogramming Shift Kit. Please, given this, when I replace the torque converter, do I need to get some type of heavy duty unit, or will a stock, re-man torque converter be OK? I don't regularly tow heavy loads but I'll have to transport a JD tractor occassionally. Tractor and trailer will weigh about 8400, or 8500 lbs. Thanks from east-central Arizona, Tim

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yeah any type of towing should get a heavier duty Torque Converter. That is some weight to pull and a stock converter just doesn't hold up.

[@johnsnyder2685]

I have a e4od the 94 F150 when you put it in drive the torque converter locks the engine down stalls the motor you can put it in reverse and it won't do it if you put it in reverse first and then throw it low it won't lock the motor down

[@marshallsanders5672]

That is probably a stuck ON Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. In Reverse and Manual Low 1st. gear there is line pressure going to the back side of the TCC Lock-Up valve Forcing it OFF. When in regular drive there is not line pressure on the back side of that valve forcing it off so in turn it would create this problem if the solenoid was stuck-on. I have a solenoid test video as well to check it.

[@timwagerer6111]

What’s your recommendation for torque converter brand and style for a 97 7.3 that’s towing up to 12k at times? Thanks for all the videos and I love learning all this.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Tim Yep that’s a good bit of weight there ! You’ll most likely need a Billet Triple clutch disc converter depending on how often your towing. I have been telling people on my channel to get a “Precision” of New Hampton converter but apparently they are only selling to there current business clientele due to parts supply issues. With that said I always go to PATC for all my “Super Heavy Duty” or “High Performance” applications they are the best out there in my opinion but they are expensive. Also I’ve heard good things about B&I torque converters out of Oklahoma but have never used them. I trust less than a handful of converter companies as there are so many bad ones out there. Out of those 2 I’m sure you can get what you need ! Be sure to follow the converter companies recommendation on what size to drill the TCC lock-up orifice in the pump on the E4OD to ensure the triple disc clutch does not apply to hard. They will steer you correct on that. Hope this helps. I’m assuming your putting in a Trango Tugger kit along with the Sonnax Pressure Regulator Valve ! It talk about these in my “Pump From Hell” video and My Trango “Tugger” kit install video !

[@timwagerer6111]

Should I get a billet flexplate as well or will the stock style be ok? Thanks

[@rickparran81]

Like how you work.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thank You I appreciate the comment.

[@rickparran81]

I read and read but rarely find any good information that exceeds my knowledge. The understanding of how each part takes place in the operation of said part. 90 percent of the time it seems more like some people haven't any idea how it works. But have plenty to say. I have started considering I might be a weirdo. The way I want to understand what is happening, and how it works. Anyone as far as I'm concerned can change a transmission. But to understand and fix it is what drives me. I'm dealing with od slipping. I'm stuck on understanding the shift pattern. Seems to me that my E40D has 4 gears and the converter locks up. (Simulating) 4 shifts/ 5 gears. Does the converter lock after 3rd or 4th? When I turn off od, it seems to shift fine. When od is on, it drops 6oo toms. When brake is applied, it used to raise the rpm a couple hundred rpms. There isn't any reaction that I can feel while applying the brake. The converter seems to operate correctly, but when it goes into that last position, which I thought was overdrive. I can turn it on or off by the od button. No light flashing ever. No codes except 1280. I did lose a tranny cooling line which dumped enough fluid that the truck wouldn't move. 2 quarts and I was able to get it home. But seemed like od started slipping when engaged. My uneducated guess at this point is the converter, solenoid pack od or a simple od related o-rings in a valve which would not produce enough pressure on the od clutch disk. Any clues would be greatly appreciated. I know there isn't 5 gears

[@marshallsanders5672]

@@rickparran81 Rick, Long answer here, Yes it is a 4 speed with lock up. Each gear has its own gear ratio 1st. Gear is 2.71:1,2nd gear is 1.54:1, third gear is 1.00:1, overdrive is .71:1. For example in first gear the INPUT Shaft turns 2.71 turns and the OUTPUT Shaft turns once. and so on. Lock-Up does not create another gear ratio as there are no gears involved when it locks up, The difference in RPM change when lock-up is COMMANDED ON is because the IMPELLER or ENGINE is spinning FASTER than the TURBINE which is connected to the INPUT SHAFT. When its in full Lock-Up the IMPELLER and the TURBINE become Mechanically connected and therefore the RPM drop happens. The converter can Lock-Up in either 3rd or 4th depending on factors like engine RPM, engine load, vehicle speed etc. The way your explaining it to me it has overdrive but no Lock-Up. The computer ALWAYS takes it out of Lock-Up whenever the brake is applied so you don't feel a jolt in the drivetrain because in Lock-Up the engine is MECHANICALLY locked to the input shaft and if it didn't release Lock-Up on brake application the vehicle would JOLT so to speak! So if your not feeling the RPM change when the brake is applied then its not in Lock-Up to begin with. With that said it seems the Lock-Up isn't working and needs diagnosing. Keep also in mind SOME engine codes can change transmission shift strategy as well as Lock-Up function so I would fix that code first and go from there. Be sure to watch my "WHO"S IN CONTROL" videos as it explains in detail each gear as it upshifts

[@dougrathbun7226]

Ok, so I watched all of your videos on how this transmission functions and the basics for rebuilding and somehow one thing I just didn't catch is the diaphragm spring or bevel spring in the top of the overdrive piston, I didn't get the fancy spiral snap ring with my kit from Transtar Industries, so I guess I'll have to use the factory one. When I opened up this transmission, on both sides of the center support there were broken pieces parts, some of them not even recognizable so it's been a bit of a guessing game, I think I just about have it all together but I don't understand what that spring does or how to compress it to get the snap ring in place cause the whole spring is only about 1/2" to 5/8 across and the stock snap ring takes up a quarter of that, and I don't even understand what that spring does or why it is there... can you give me some advise, Thanx

[@marshallsanders5672]

Ok the spiral snap ring is a must use in these units ! It can be purchased separately. It can be put in with a flat blade screw driver and patients. Just have to start one end in the groove and work it in every inch or so all the way around until you run out of snap ring and the locking tabs are seated.

[@marshallsanders5672]

That is the return spring for the overdrive piston just like the forward Belvelle spring And the Coast clutch return spring if that makes sense

[@okeechobeejoe2868]

Marshall I hear people say that the E4OD an 4R100 are really close internally. I was watching a guy rebuild a 4R100, He was showing an overdrive drum that he had bazed, said that they are bad about separating and just spinning inside. My question is, does the E4OD have this same issue???

[@marshallsanders5672]

No the E4OD does NOT have that problem ! The overdrive drum is 1 piece CAST/E4OD as opposed to STAMPED STEEL/4R100 which is just two pieces of stamped steel welded together. They break on the weld which causes that problem ONLY in a 4R100! I haven’t seen that very often but it does happen sometimes. I haven’t had any true 4R100 parts to show in my videos but they are almost identical inside to an E4OD other than a few drums that are Stamped Steel as opposed to 1 pce. Cast. Hope this helps !

[@marshallsanders5672]

Another way to look at it is think of the E4OD literally as the same transmission as the 4R100 with the exception of a few different “looking” parts inside which literally are doing the IDENTICAL things ! and the PWM lockup system that I explain in this video ! As difficult as it is just keep things in your mind as SIMPLE as possible ! I realize now but my next video is literally going to be talking about the MENTAL aspect of rebuilding. It’s going to be good one ! A definite must watch ! Stay tuned brother !

[@rodshuffy4045]

Great info....I assume triple disk converters are the same just more clutches? The transgo kit PWM conversion/delete will allow the use of any torque converter, right? My trans update: Its out and being torn down. Not too happy with what I have seen. 1 pan bolt missing, found that bolt lodged between the solenoid pack connector and trans body......ABOVE PAN! My ATSG manual says I am supposed to have 8 check balls and my transmission only had 7. All bell housing, torque converter, and 4x4 adapter bolts and nuts were so overtorqued I had to use a 24" breaker bar to break them loose. Thought I was going to have to cut the torque converter nuts off. 36 inch extensions and breaker bars are not fun. There was an E40D solenoid filter installed in my 4R100. That as far as I have gotten so far, going slowwww. Oh, trans pan and magnet is full of metal shavings......quite substantially so. Input shaft does not look right, it has a 6" long section about 6 inches from the end of the input shaft that looks like a lath has cut away 1/8" or a little more of its diameter. Keep the videos coming I love them all.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Oh man ! Crazy stuff ! Email me some pics (overdriven [e-mail] )I just ran out of time and forgot to mention that.and wanted to upload the video. Yes you are correct about the triple disc clutch. I will mention that and more in the next video.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Also yes that PWM delete allows the use of any style clutch.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Those ATSG manuals are VERY good and a really great go-to for transmissions

[@marshallsanders5672]

Also I am going to recommend ANYONE rebuilding their own trans to buy one of those manuals in my next video ! Thanks for mentioning that ! Good Stuff

[@scootertrash647]

1st thank you for sharing your knowledge and mechanical wisdom. Im successfully rebuilding my 4r100 but i have 1 more question. 7.3 diesel,slighly hopped up,turbo,exhaust, intake. What torque converter do you recommend? Obviously triple disk,billet but what brand? Precisions are freaking expensive.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yeah Scooter I wish there was an easy answer here but there isn't. Buying a torque converter is like your buying there reputation as well, because you cant see inside of it for yourself it is of utmost importance to be able to trust it. With that said I have only used (Precision TC) or PATC which is more than Precision but I always know what I'm getting. I've heard B&I in Oklahoma are really good as well but have never used them maybe try them. There are so many BAD Torque Converter companies out there I trust very few because when a torque converter BLOWS up It ain't a pretty site and it sends metal all through the rebuild. Therefore costing more money and more time in the end. Good luck let me know what you get I'm curious

[@scootertrash647]

@Marshall Sanders your experience and willingness to share that knowledge is greatly appreciated. I had a feeling thats what you might say lol. Ive done everything else right..be dumb to cheap out now. Just worried cuz like you said there are so many of lesser quality with a pretty sticker n paint out there

[@scootertrash647]

@Marshall Sanders im back again lookin for some more knowledge and experience 😆. If installing the transgo 4r100-lu kit do i still use same solenoid and should it be used with the new precision torque converter i just ordered? Yes i took your advice. And can the sonnax line to lube zip valve be used with transgo boost valve mod in shift kit? If not then your recommendations are welcomed. Little overwhelming with the 2 diff manufacturers doin things differently. Im trying to do all these small things that help

[@marshallsanders5672]

Hey Scooter, shoot me an Email and we’ll discuss the “details” of your build that way we’re always on the same page if you will. It gets a bit confusing crossing different video comments. Your on the right track just have to dial in your build.

[@johnathonsiders2776]

So I have a e40d behind a 96 powerstroke the transmission functioned fine but the seal was leaking in the pump so I replaced the pump. After the pump was replaced the tc locked and wouldn't unlock so I pit new seals in my old pump and put it in and the tc is still locked I checked the solenoid as you showed in your video for that and it checked out what els can cause my issue

[@marshallsanders5672]

The lock-up system is fairly strait forward in these. Did you disassemble the pump ? The lock-up control valve in the pump could be stuck on. Is the Teflon seal at the end of the stator new/Ok, and or in place? Could be a bad converter as well. Everything for lock-up is in the pump except the solenoid itself so if the solenoid is good it has to be in the pump or converter. I have seen it lock up and stall the engine when the filter falls out of the pump but it seems that isn’t a problem. I have also seen when it’s stuck in high line pressure it will lock-up in reverse and stall the engine but only in reverse.

[@2allisonn]

To combat the PWM in a 4r100 can’t you use the on off Lu kit even with the triple disc converter. I know the instructions don’t recommend it but so many do it

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yes absolutely you can for sure just in some instances it applies to harsh with triple disc converter.

[@josepharagon8259]

So…. Do you recommend towing with the overdrive button on or off/ light on or off..¿?….😮

[@marshallsanders5672]

I recommend towing with the O/D off (light on) then when you get up to speed on flat grade/low load situations it’s ok to put it in O/D. I also recommend manually shifting in more extreme/heavy towing situations.

[@jakeresch4332]

I changed my PMW 4r100 to the trans-go on/off valve and now it locks slow or slips unless im really heavy on the throttle. Do you have any info of what it could be?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Jack, Not Cool, without knowing what else you've done as far as transmission repair. Did you change the converter, the seal on the end of the stator, Rebuild the entire transmission ? my best guess is measure the "original" lock-up valve diameter. It must read .530" In the instructions it talks about two different bore diameters either a .541 or .530 If you installed a .530" diameter valve in a .541" bore it would definitely cause problems such as yours. Thanks for subscribing ill help any way I can in your diagnosis.

[@timwagerer6111]

Should I get a Billet Flexplate since I’m getting a Billet Triple Disc Converter? Towing up to 12K.

[@marshallsanders5672]

I don’t think a billet flexplate is totally necessary in your case. I’m assuming your not running crazy horsepower and torque through it. Where that gets necessary in my opinion is hard throttle high torque launches in racing/competition type applications. The stock one is pretty stout as long as it’s in perfect condition. Personally I would spend that kind of money on a huge external transmission cooler etc.

[@piotrtomaszek5316]

I have a 4r100 in a 04 f250 with 5.4l and I am getting a shudder noise and or a sound like hydraulic fluid humming noise passing through a line between 35 or 55 mph what would you recommend I do to figure out if it’s a bad torque converter, pump, solenoid pack, dad or worn out overdrive parts and so on. Or should I just rebuild the entire transmission. It doesn’t throw any codes fluid looks good, I did notice a very small leak when you remove the rubber inspection plug. Further more i notice it does it more often when driving normally light load on engine but if it’s driven hard higher engine loads it doesn’t do it and shifts very well only problem is a short shuddering noise that is present or 5 to 15 seconds between 35-55 mph. Thank you

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yeah it sounds like the torque converter clutch is wearing out causing the chatter/shutter. With that said it sounds like the front seal is leaking slightly so best case scenario would be replace the torque converter and go through the pump replacing any worn parts. Most likely just pump gears and bushing/ “boost valve” in the lock-up valve line up, reseal and be done. With that said that’s just fixing pump and torque converter(main problem) but how many miles are on it because the rest of the trans still has that many if that makes sense. In the case of high mileage just makes sense to rebuild entire unit and be assured no problems for years down the road.

[@piotrtomaszek5316]

@@marshallsanders5672 thank you for replying I appreciate you sharing this information with me it very helpful. I just got the truck two months ago it has 287,000 miles on it the transmission was replaced with a jasper transmission but I didn’t know how long ago or at what mileage it was done. I hope that I won’t find any surprises inside since it’s a Jasper transmission so hopefully they just rebuild them to manufacture specifications. I also thought about drainage the fluid and change out the filter and put that shudder fix additive in to maybe get a few more months out of it before doing the rebuild would you recommend I try that. Also I wanted to add I will mainly use this truck for plowing and occasional pull a light weight trailer, so should I look into any specific clutches or any other parts to make it easier on the transmission and get extra life out of it or will the OEM setup work just fine?

[@marshallsanders5672]

@@piotrtomaszek5316 Yeah you certainly can put the shutter fix in and most likely get some more mileage out of it, just know its a temporary fix at best is all. As far as being a jasper it most likely has a bunch of upgrades already in there but hard to tell until you tear into it. I would definitely recommend the Transgo "Tugger" kit for H/D use along with other certain hard parts I mention in my other videos. Borg Warner clutches work just fine in even heavy duty use and a proper rebuild. Good luck with it i hope it gets you a little farther with the shutter fix.

[@carlossanchez2231]

Tanks great vídeo, do You have about e40d líne pressure function mi trnsmission has 127 líne pressure in all PRND????

[@marshallsanders5672]

That’s to high . Should be around 70 psi. At Idle/a little higher in reverse. Is there any codes in the computer. Many transmission codes will put the trans in a limp mode situation. The computer sets the pressure higher to protect it from burning up. Probably your issue. Clear any codes and see if the pressure comes down.

[@carlossanchez2231]

@@marshallsanders5672 thank You so much, i don't have transmission codes, My first to second is so hard and never sets third. I had tested with other computer, valve body, solenoid pack but i couldnt

[@the909ranger]

I was hoping you could lend me your expertise. Have you ever seen a stuck TCC Valve that would not allow the converter to lock up? My TC stopped locking one day out of the blue. I have a manual TC lockup switch that has worked perfectly for the last 10 years. Now it won't lock manually or on its own. In drive, at a stop, I hit the switch and it does nothing, not even a drop in RPM like it is trying to lock. I can hear the solenoid clicking from under the truck. I removed and tested the solenoid pack per your video and it tested good. At this point I do not know what else it could be, its shifts fine in all gears, no other signs of trouble, the fluid was cleaned when I drained it. Any Ideas?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Ranger, It seems your on the right track with your diagnosis. If the solenoid is definitely working and you hear it clicking then you've eliminated everything external and even the solenoid itself ! The only other things in the circuit for TCC are the lock-up valve (In The Pump) (Possibly stuck). The front scarf cut Stator seal, (worn out /damaged) And the torque converter itself (Worn out clutch, binding splines etc. inside the Torque Converter). The only other thing could be the feed oil to the solenoid but that feed oil is the same oil that feeds shift solenoids so if it is shifting through all the gears just fine then that should be fine as well.

[@the909ranger]

@Marshall Sanders I removed the pump to inspect the tcc valve. It did not appear to be stuck at all, but I did find nonferrous metal in a cavity associated with the valve. It is the large round cavity near the pump suction. It almost looks like it is a low point designed for debris to settle out. Trying to figure out my next move, aside from reassembling with a new torque converter and hoping it works, haven't found the "smoking gun" yet.

[@marshallsanders5672]

@@the909ranger Ranger, It seems the Torque Converter is bad. You have checked everything else in the system and haven't found anything to cause the problem. The TCC circuit is pretty much the solenoid feed fluid, the solenoid, the TCC valve, the Stator seal, and the Torque Converter. Unfortunately you cant see inside the torque converter but through process of elimination there is no other explanation.

[@ivanmnyagonchak5977]

On 4R100, If I do PWM delete to ON/OFF lockup, do I need to purchase non-PWM solenoid pack?

[@marshallsanders5672]

No it uses the PWM solenoid pack just the valve system changes it to on /off

[@mattyb496]

When changing to a on/off style using the sonax kit, do you need to swap solenoid as well?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Matty, I am unaware of any Sonnax PWM to On/Off lock-up kit. What is the part# you are referring to? The only one I know of is the “Transgo” kit and it uses the PWM lock-up solenoid pack

[@Shalash87]

Pussification indeed - compare early 700s with hydraulic control lock-up to the pwm on 4l60Es… What happened to those toggle buttons, the variable pitch on the stator of the early 400s, the AC solenoid on the TV, and the hydraulic lock up. Basically three buttons of “turbo”!

[@marshallsanders5672]

That’s funny ! You clearly are or have been a transmission builder before either present or past life and not letting on but that’s cool. No one knows as much as you without having built many different transmissions ! I was a builder for 22 years at AAMCO and I’m thankful it wasn’t at a dealer with only a handful of different same manufacturer transmissions ! It forced me to understand the operation of automatic transmissions instead of just replacing parts. I would build a Hyundai one day a Honda the next and a Mercedes’ the day after that but it was great to learn how all the different makers “Did there thing “ so to speak ! And all the different Characteristical problems each transmission maker had. In your opinion what’s the absolute best transmission to date ?🤔 I know mine but would like to hear from you first ! Thanks for the Comments and watching it seems all my videos !

[@obsfordtx1438]

I had my e40d rebuilt the pump seal came out while driving I only drove a mile before realizing the smoke and rpm jump with loss of power to the wheels by about 90 percent. Know I have a kinda shutter while driving and it shifts hard to 3rd and 4th also it has the tc back leak issue you mentioned in a video where do I need to start?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Oh boy ! Interesting from what your saying you had it “fixed”and is back in and driving. From what it sounds they just popped a front front seal in and let it eat so to speak. In a case where a trans “neutrals” out under load while driving due to loss of fluid 8times out of ten at least 1 or more clutch packs probably got burnt. I would have disassembled the trans at least to the point of checking each clutch pack for any burnt clutches. And thoroughly went through the pump to see why the seal blew out ! The “Converter drainback “ issue is probably to much clearance between pump bushing and converter hub/ lube passage drilled where it needs plugged and the “Sonnax” Pressure Regulator Valve put in/ stuck open lube check valve in the stator. To much pump gear clearance etc. all pertaining to the pump itself. I talk about all this in my “pump from hell” video. As you can see there is No real good “starting” point that trans internals needs a full inspection in my opinion to be “right” again

[@obsfordtx1438]

Do you own a shop what state are you in

[@marshallsanders5672]

@@obsfordtx1438 I just own the "shop" you see in the videos its literally at my house ! I live in Maryland where are you on this 3rd rock !

[@obsfordtx1438]

Texas man I wish you were closer I would love to have you work on my tanny it's hard to find reliable people around here

[@marshallsanders5672]

@@obsfordtx1438 I hear you on that one ! One of my whole purposes of doing these videos is to try to help people not get ripped off! Its a real problem everywhere nowadays. Whether its a lack of Knowledge or just the plain not giving a F*&K its a real problem!

[@xxgxcha..lilyxx707]

You talk too much bro

[@marshallsanders5672]

Right on bro! Sorry to disappoint.

[@AWIERD1]

So with the early Toyota's you reused bolts that already experiencing plastic deformation but because they were already stretched a little longer you just ground off a little bit of metal off the the end of the bolts? Just to torque them back to the required spec which caused the stretch of the bolt in the first place? After you explained the fix for that issue I had to stop watching as that threw away a lot of credibility. I get that you have working knowledge and there's a difference between that and book smarts, but your disregard for some basic engineering principles is a problem that is abundant in this industry. Sorry

[@marshallsanders5672]

Wow ! Great comment ! In the REAL world and R&R guys have no idea what bolt torque is they way over tighten bolts which causes them to stretch even more than factory! Which LITERALLY caused that problem ! I don’t even know what bolts and plasticity even means as I TRULY am a real world mechanic ! I don’t need to understand ENGINEERING to understand what TRULY happens inside these transmissions ! Einstein said “Keep Things Simple….. But not Simpler” and plain and simple….. That’s what I do ! Period …. My favorite song of all time is Lynyrd Skynyrd “Simple Man” and that is how I roll. Have you ever rebuilt an Automatic Transmission ?

[@marshallsanders5672]

And people that have a BASIC/ADVANCEDUnderstanding of this stuff “UNDERSTAND” that is Just how it is. And they move on to get their vehicle back up and running so to speak !Im sorry to disappoint you but you missed a TON of good info….. just being stuck in ENGINEERING land and not the REAL World. It is what it is Have a Great day !

[@marshallsanders5672]

You got me on a roll but this will be it with this comment. I LITERALLY CUSS ! ENGINEERS ALL DAY LONG!! At my job for the Way they DESIGN shit !!! As a real world mechanic I have to do”WHATEVER IT TAKES “ to get the vehicle back up and running with no issues and that Toyota toque converter bolt is the absolute perfect lesson to learn in a real Mechanics “World” of not putting to long a bolt between the Flex-plate and Torque Converter!!!

[@AWIERD1]

@@marshallsanders5672 you are correct they should have probably used a shorter bolt. If someone was to reuse it as you mentioned it would and did apparently cause further issues. I know a lot of head gasket bolts are 1 time use. Once you torque it to spec and remove it, it's no longer the proper length and will not clamp like it did originally. So in your opinion do think that was the case regarding Toyota's transmission? Automakers are all about cost reduction, so why use more material which costs $? Was it just something that was never taken into account because it wasn't properly tested? Or did they just never expect someone besides their stealerships to repair/remove/replace their transmissions which I their service manual somewhere in fiber print states you need new bolts discard the old ones?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Since we’re keeping it real here I would have to say (Only My Opinion) that they just did not ENGINEER the clearance between the bolt and Torque Converter CORRECTLY. The joke at work is I have to Cuss an engineer at least once a day for the stupid ways they design and build Vehicles sometimes. With that said I have ALL the respect in the world for the way Engineers THINK and DESIGN shit properly but it’s the 25 percent of the time they just PLAIN and SIMPLY …. Fumble the ball so to speak . If that makes sense. No more …. No less. Thanks for the comment let’s just keep it REAL !

[@adamsorell4851]

Whos Rick?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Rick owns the transmission I’m using to shoot all these videos! I traded him building his transmission and he’s painting my El Camino in some of my other videos.