Aw dang! I apologize for wasting your time it wasn’t an R&R video just a resealing video

Yes those parts should be interchangeable as long as you swap in like you said the correct clutches snap rings etc. Be sure to check for proper clutch clearance and proper rear unit endplay when you assemble the transmission, VERY IMPORTANT! I have tons more videos on this particular transmission including endplay checks

Interesting question, You definitely need to change the sol. pack to On/Off for your computer. I have never done that conversion but I personally would change the lock-up valve to the transgo 4R100-LU kit along with your sol. pack and believe that will work well for you. You can't just change to the On-Off lock-up valve because the pump bore is different. I personally would just build the whole trans with the 4R100HD2 kit or the "TUGGER" kit for any kind of towing or H/D use. I believe the John Wood valve body is just the accumulator body so not a huge difference than building your original accumulator body with the transgo stuff but of coarse all up to you. As far as the shifting hard I wouldn't think the Jim wood V/B will shift to hard if you put the trango kit in. Really the accumulator body is the biggest "Shift Feel" adjustment and either the Jim wood or the transgo should have similar results. Not sure how large the "Line Modulator" valve is that they put in but apparently those valve bodies don't create a Harsh shift just firmed up. Other than the Accumulator valve body the pressure regulator is the only other thing that will determine how hard it shifts. The transgo just ups the "base line" pressure 15 or so psi so not a crazy amount of difference. But as always its all in the test drive and being satisfied with the "shift feel". If anything needs to be adjusted you can do it all by pulling that 1 valve body (accumulator body) and making adjustments. End result regardless of what you choose needs to be a nice "tight" instant shift but not banging! Hope this helps thanks for the comment

@@marshallsanders5672 thanks for the input. Just realized I put James wood instead of John wood.

Your very welcome! Thanks for the comment.

Oh geez that’s not good! Not sure who’s been helping/diagnosing the problem. Pretty strait forward code(no overdrive) problem is it could be 1 of 3 things off the top of my head. Valve body hanging up Overdrive clutch burned out or seals bad in the O/D apply piston. In high mileage vehicles sometimes the manual valve bore is so worn out there isn’t enough supply oil to apply the clutch. Most likely isn’t a bad shift solenoid otherwise it would have an issue in 2 gears not just missing overdrive. Are there any other codes in the computer engine or otherwise. Does the fluid smell AT ALL burnt or badly discolored from the normal Red fluid? How many miles are on it? Who has been attempting to figure out the issue? A lot of factors involved just have to keep questioning and narrowing it down until you find the actual cause.

@@marshallsanders5672 Hello. Lost u joint back in April and broke the bell housing off. Put my parts in another case. The transmission guy has around 50 years experience. Have changed many parts outside the trans trying to fix it. If I drive it 5 plus miles or so at 50 miles a hour the overdrive will try to engage but not hold the gear. When this happens the overdrive button on the shifter will begin blinking. The shifter is only a few parts that I have replaced trying to fix that problem. The trans guy even put the parts in another case and still same result, no 4th gear. I found you on KZbin a few weeks ago and it seems that you know your stuff. I just put a new solenoid pack outward harness plug and ohm the solenoid pack that I learned from you. It ohm out fine. I watched a video yesterday and another ford trans missing the overdrive piston housing orifice filter. Does the 4r100 have this filter as well. Truck drives great in 1st 2rd and 3rd gear, also reverse is good. Thanks for any help. Be blessed.

I wrote that meaning the 466 and the Ford 7.3 they work the same way.

I have another video on my channel testing specifically the 4R100 solenoid pack with the PWM solenoid! It is a bit deceiving but take a look at the video it will all make sense and tell you whether it’s good or not.

It’s definitely NOT anything hydraulic! If the rear tires are spinning it’s getting hydraulic input to the Transmission and power to the rear wheels. There is a 4wd lever on the left of the seat, mess with that lever and check for positivity in the engagement to 4wd. Need to check and see if the front driveshaft (to the front differential) will turn free with the front tires off the ground in 4wd. It’s either still something int the front differential or the transmission itself isn’t transmitting power to the front driveshaft to power the front wheels.

Yeah that 91-92 unit definitely needs upgraded parts. 1) Yes remove the engagement control valve spring on any application. 2) The pump on the 97 diesel will work fine in your early unit as long as its NOT A PWM STYLE LOCK-UP SYSTEM and is actually preferable because its an upgraded style. As far as the Hard Parts go just about every part in the 97 unit will go into your early unit O/D section, Center support, Planetary's , Drums etc. You just have to pay close attention and make sure your endplays are perfect (O/D section) and (REAR section) when you assemble it. I show this in one of my videos in detail because i had a problem with the lightning transmission endplay and had to correct it. You can just use the diesel DIRECT drum and get 5 clutches which is upgraded from your 4 clutch GAS direct drum. You can use the 97' Forward drum as well Make sure your 2nd clutch clearance is correct as well and I also show this in one of my videos on how to check it. The only thing that can't be swapped over is your valvebody's, separator plate, and case they must all stay together. As far as the superior shift kit goes I have heard of a lot of problems out there with some of the stuff they put in there shift kit.(removing some of the low reverse return springs) (adding Cup-Plug in the low-reverse case passage) (drilling a lot of orifice holes bigger in the pump) Some good some bad. Depending on your intended use of the transmission i would recommend just putting in the Trango "Tugger" kit but not sure what superior kit you have and what all there doing to the trans? The mid year diesels did have Aluminum front carriers and I would recommend the steel 6 pinion there and you should be fine with the aluminum 4 pinion Rear Carrier unless your doing really H/D towing with this thing. Transtar sells a thinner pressure plate now for the direct drum instead of using the forward plate to get an extra clutch in the direct drum if necessary. It is a bit of a pain getting the direct drum clearance right without interference issues on the diesel direct clutch stack-up. I would think you would be fine just using the diesel direct drum and having 5 Direct clutches in most H/D applications. A billet Torque Converter is always a good upgrade over stock And as with any rebuild make sure all the parts your swapping are in very good or like new condition and just pay extra close attention to detail when swapping in different parts.

@@marshallsanders5672 Thank you!!! I tried rebuilding the 91’ unit that came in the van I bought with no success last winter. I definitely used that shift kit you described-swapping springs in the accumulator valve, new boost valve and spring in the pump, drilled out drain back passages, drilled the 1/16 hole in that area near the boost valve in the pump and removed low reverse return springs. I’ll try to send you a photo so you know exactly which one it was. Someone gave me a 92’ gasoline E4OD for free, so I’m thinking I’ll just start over on that unit, upgrading it as you suggest. I’m not planning on towing really at all, but I will rebuild the 351w (new intake, heads, cam, flat top pistons, etc) so I want the transmission to be able to handle the increase in power, but I also just want a super reliable unit probably more than anything. I have watched all your E4OD videos, especially the “Loading the guts” one where you had endplay clearance issues and ground the center support like 20/1000s. Feel free to follow along @ryevan91 to see how bad a butcher everything 😂 But seriously, thank you for the info

FOLLOW UP: I sent a note to TransGO and they replied that the cup-spring-plug combo do NOT touch the end plug, there is supposed to be a gap. I'm guessing the hole we drilled fills the bore with trans fluid and pushes against the end plug

@@1000million Excellent! yeah the fact there is a gap isn't a problem the main thing is that the piston doesn't have full stroke and create a lag in pressure build up if that makes sense? It strokes slightly then bottoms out and pressure builds up much faster than the piston having full stroke with a weaker spring as well as having the hole drilled and able to build pressure on the back side of the piston like you mentioned! This comment tells me you are paying attention to the details and that's what it takes to get everything right! Thanks for the comment

@@marshallsanders5672 Marshall, you did it again. When you were showing the final air check test, you went through all the ports on the transmissions underside and which ports to air check. when you did the coast over run, I was following along. I didn't hear any clunking sound so after several attempts I ended up pulling the pump and checking the coast drum. when i tried to move the clutches, they were locked tight. no movement at all. I took them apart and found the coast clutch piston apply plate didn't seat on the aluminum piston properly and was wedged at an angle. it bent one of the frictions to where there was no clearance at all. If you hadn't have shown how to test it............ many thanks.

@@1000million Good Catch! Paying attention to details is key and thinking something wasn't right there saved you a ton of headache in the long run had you put that unit in there and run it! I always double even triple check my work just to be sure its right on the bench. It saves so much hassle once there back in the truck and not working correctly!

Yes it certainly does! Sounds like you’ve built a few transmissions ? It’s all about the details and as simple as that plate is it is just as important as anything else in the rebuild process! Thanks for the Comment

When you say no 1st gear is it like neutral or is it taking off in a different (higher) gear?

Your welcome on that! The motor home 460 should just have the heavy duty parts in it. Six pinion front planet Steel O/D planet Solid rebuild with new or like new parts including all bushings and bearings. High quality torque converter and put in a Transgo” Tugger” kit for sure

Yes you can add a disc to the gas forward and direct clutches to give them more torque capacity.

@@marshallsanders8689 Thanks, was curious about that, we was pulling out a stuck tractor, and it shifted, to second, and now doesn't have a second gear. works fine otherwise.. Just no second, so guess I get to learn to rebuild one and appreciate these and other videos.

I got it when i bought the tractor so really don't know where to find one separate.

Shortest answer possible is a PWM 4R100 torque converter could be put in either an E4OD or a 4R100. But a regular E4OD On-Off Lock-up style torque converter CANNOT be used in a 4R100 PWM application and all the difference is what the Clutch Material is made of. Go back in this video at 40:00 minutes of this video i explain it in detail. It does sound like you have a 4R100 because it has no capsule to drill out for Lock-Up "firmness". Also the lock-up valve train in the pump will be different and the Lock-up solenoid in the solenoid pack is different. I have a Bunch of videos explaining everything about these transmissions including the different solenoids and pumps Check them out for in depth detail ! Thanks for the comment hope you get yours straitened out. Sounds like you've been around the the block with this trans just keep at it and get it Right!

Ha Good catch! the Temp sensor Pins are #7 & #8 and the EPC pins are #11 & #12. Its just a misprint on the turned page! Just go with the video and See the pins that I test and the readings are clearly visible. Thanks for the comment.

I feel the same way! Thanks for the comment

You should be able to get it almost anywhere just have to order it separately. The good gasket will only work on later transmissions 96-up unless you change the pan to a smooth bolt hole style. Usually the cork is for 89-95 early pans that have the raised "bosses" where the bolts go through the pan. Not sure if that's the one they sent you or not. Doorman makes a nice late pan for these.

Possibly, It sounds like its gear "hunting" shifting from 1st. to 2nd then back to 1st. and so on. Would you say that is the problem? Is there any other problems as far as other gears 3rd or 4th? usually in these when there is a problem with a shift solenoid itself it will have issues in 2 gears because it uses only 2 shift solenoids to control 4 different gears. Also sometimes the 1-2 shift valve spring breaks causing erratic shifts missing shifts etc. just something else to look for as well. Or is possibly the torque converter clutch applying and releasing at that low speed causing the engine to bog down?

@@marshallsanders8689 That's what it appears to be doing. This all started when I was towing a moderately sized moving trailer. The transmission would not shift as it would just rev up, it would slip, then this thing started with the first gear coasting issue. I also think that this era of the f150 has throttle sensor issues. Sounds like if they go bad, it can also cause shifting issues. General driving around town it really shows no other signs but it still feels weird when I take off from a stop sometimes. Like it's surges just a tiny bit on acceleration...not super smooth and continuous.

Oh geez! 90psi in park and neutral sounds perfect for a “Tugger” kit. You have a MAJOR hydraulic leak somewhere. It’s not the EPC solenoid or system unless the EPC sol. Is stuck open and you didn’t put in the EPC relief valve and spring in the case possibly but that would effect base pressure as well. The EPC system only effects pressure from base pressure “90” psi and up. Misplaced/Missing checkball wrong valvebody gaskets would be my guess without looking at a hydraulic schematic. The fact that it has no forward or reverse and no pressure in any gear is concerning just because it uses different hydraulic circuits. Did you build it or someone else?

I built it, have done quite a few E4ods and many others over the years. Never a problem like this. I always double and triple check my work. And follow atra manual, as well as your videos. Thanks for the response and videos.

@@buck6313 Ok so you know what’s in there and what isn’t. It has a massive hydraulic leak somewhere in the valvebody is my guess. Checkballs/backwards valve etc. I like to hear that you double and triple check everything that means your paying attention for sure. I would think your pressure regulator system in the pump is fine because your base pressure in park and neutral is perfect. I personally would just carefully remove the valvebody and quadruple check everything checkball location/ valve placement/ gaskets etc. Did you change any of the valve body components themselves meaning the castings themselves? Start with ANYTHING easy before you go down the rabbit hole of meticulously checking all the valves etc. Center support torqued and all bolts in? Beings it has no pressure in fwd or reverse narrows down a lot of circuits they don’t share.

There was some question about the separator plate. I have a 95 trans but it had a lot of newer parts put in it at one point in its life. So sorting all of that out was somewhat of a nightmare. My plate was supposedly a late 95. It had the extra notch for id. Going in for surgery tomorrow for my rotator cuff so it will be a couple months before I get back to it. I will post what I find then. Thanks again

Ask away Ill answer anything to the best of my knowledge!

Thank You sir! I like to make things as simple as possible so anyone can understand it. Appreciate the comment!

Yep I stand corrected I've gotten some flack for that one, I just misspoke the part name. Thanks for the comment

I fully understand the concerns of wanting a parts list! Problem is depending on the type of build/ how bad the trans is/ what upgrades your going to do etc. it is very difficult to put a parts list together until the transmission is torn down and specifically order parts for your particular rebuild.

Thank you so much for responding! I must have watched this series 30 times. I've learned a ton and feel incredibly confident that I could do this... Of course thanks to you! I understand that they will all be different and I'm seriously thinking this trans has serious problems with that being said, I was looking at the rebuild kit in general. Each piece will be inspected as per your instruction and purchased accordingly. Did you purchase a bearing kit? Whatever it takes here in Cincy are saying they can't get Borg Warner clutches. Who did you get the kit from? Did you get the zip kit for the valve bodies? Or is there a lot that has all of those in one? A master kit? I have researched but I get myself so confused at times afraid that I will be double purchasing which I really don't want to do! I'm sure you understand. Super great instruction Marshall! I'm wanting to video my experience so I'll keep you posted. Don't worry I won't move my cheese! I can't wait to start these transmissions! (Have two)!!!!?

For the overdrive... Is there a "norm" for the thicknesses? All of this upgrade is sold separately I'm assuming? From summit?

@@mebusy2280 Good Morning, I got my kit from Whatever it Takes as well but back then they could get them. Maybe just Google Borg Warner clutches as everything is hit and miss nowadays. You can buy just the seal and gasket kit separate and find the clutches as a stand alone pack if you can find them. Possibly Transtar. I didn't buy a whole bearing kit but you can if it is really bad. I would highly recommend putting a Transgo "Tugger" kit in there. It comes complete, not nearly as complicated as the Sonnax stuff and is better for towing or heavy hauling. Its hard to beat the Transgo kit. Good luck finding the parts keep us updated on your progress. Thanks for the comment

@@mebusy2280it’s actually not an upgrade. Just a .320 pressure plate and 3 stock steels and 3 stock clutches. Many earlier models came with 2 overdrive clutches.

The manual I’m using has been long since discontinued unfortunately, the company has been out of business for quite some time.

@@marshallsanders5672 Is there anything similar available anywhere ? Thank You

That's excellent! One of the whole reasons for doing the video to help someone understand these things better. We don't know what we don't know. Thanks for the comment.

A 4R100 does NOT have a vacuum modulator. That’s the “OLD” school way transmissions used to regulate line pressure rise. The 4R100 uses an Electronic Pressure Control solenoid to control line pressure rise. All done by the computer. As far as your fluid loss goes if it is not leaking out onto the ground it can only be going to 2 places. (1) into the radiator cooler and mixing with Antifreeze. You would easily be able to tell this because either/or the transmission fluid would be milky looking or the Antifreeze would be a milky looking. (2) most likely cause is the transfer case input seal is hardened and letting fluid leak past and over filling up the Transfer case and subsequently going low in the transmission. Pull the fill plug on the transfer case and see if it is overfull.

@@marshallsanders5672 Hi Marshall, thanks for clarifying (although through research yesterday I learned just what you stated). Today a shop confirmed that my torque converter is failing. Also, just checked my coolant, and no ATF contamination. Haven't checked the transfer case, but am going to remove transmission for rebuild (and of course, replace the damaged torque converter). No local transmission rebuilder, (wish I was in your locale to have you work your magic on it, lol) so it will go to an individual in Phoenix with whom the local auto repair shop coordinates for transmission work.