Early 1920s Mens Fashion - Part 1: Overall aesthetic and the German-American connection

In this video I explain the aesthetic idea of the early 1920s with a focus on Germany and the United States. This episode shall be the first part of a whole series about 1920s menswear. If you like to see more, please subscribe to my channel.
If you'd like to know where I buy my stuff, check my list of shops and brands here: vintagebursche.de/shops-and-br...
You can also support me, by buying me a coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/vintageb...
Leave me a comment so I know what to talk about next.
Follow me on instagram for more style inspiration: / vintagebursche (You will also find a lot of photos I used in the video there)
My video/audio gear
Camera:
(DE) amzn.to/2TEDDUm
(US) amzn.to/36bMM9C
(UK) amzn.to/3avdYn3
Camera microphone:
(DE) amzn.to/2RB9l2f
(US) amzn.to/369SGI5
(UK) amzn.to/38t1oTy
Mobile microphone:
(DE) amzn.to/3awZ2Vy
(US) amzn.to/36aM0cN
(UK) amzn.to/2tuj1DL
Light:
(DE) amzn.to/369aYJC
(US) amzn.to/2NN4Dxc
(UK) amzn.to/3arkFGR

[@Tenkterian]

This is the type of video series that, once it's made its way into the algorithm and the recommendations, is gonna get thousands and thousands of views! Well done and highly interesting!

[@Vintagebursche]

Let's hope so. 😉

[@puggirl415]

Totally agree. If Bernadette Banner hadn't posted all the CoCoVid costuber lectures and events I would never have heard of this channel. I am so interested in seeing the men's costuber videos and talks that I signed up for it. I watch mostly women costubers so this event is really going to bring new folks who have found a love of costuming and making things even if they are not doing costuming or even sewing.

[@Lichen8404]

This is strange but I really like the way he says "Italy" and his accent in general.

[@Mienarrr]

as a fellow german speaker, thanks 😁 everyone usually hates our accent hahaha

[@Kill.The.Rockstar]

I'm designing clothes for a play set in the 1920's and these videos have been really helpful! (A lot of my books on 1920's fashion only go into detail on the women's fashion) :)

[@thejr.historian365]

You did a wonderful job, I'm legally blind and it really helps how descriptive you are. I hope you're doing well and staying safe.

[@CallieRoseMartinsyde]

I did a search for "men's fashion history" and this was one of the first results. I *adore* 1920s fashion, and I think men's clothes then looked far nicer than the masculine shape does now. Looking forward to seeing what other videos you have done.

[@firstchoice7761]

I just love men's old clothes fashion. The clothes were so beautiful and beautifully made. The fabric and work are brilliant. And men looked wonderful in them.

[@claremiller9979]

Very nice, I have stumbled into your videos probably from watching so much Karolina 😁 but I'm a female who loves a suit and I think 1920s fashion, especially Leyendecker (whom I adore) is going to be good inspiration for me You've confirmed, I think, an unconscious reason I liked this style, the slightly feminine silhouette which is understandably easier to achieve when you start with an hourglass shape like I already have! I'm off to binge some more videos of yours and maybe break out the sewing machine in a few weeks when I get my confidence up

[@MH3GL]

"Let's look at the features of 1920's fashion" #1) Quality 👌

[@cobbetlprogrammer1344]

NOTE: What is your opinion of Italian Neapolitan Spalla Camicia Suit style. I totally agree with you. The 1920's-30's were the most Elegant Era of Men's fashion. As an American I don't like our Sack Suits or V-shaped suits of the 1950's and up to today. My chest is 43 inch and waist is 32-inches. I look best with the HourGlass suit, as you say, or the beautiful Italian sartorial suit. CHEERS.

[@knittingsofi7521]

I don't know why I, a19-year-old young woman would need to watch this video, but apparently, I did, thanks, you just gained a sub!

[@UnderTimothy]

I want to start dress vintage but i'm so overwhelmed. And the source that i found mostly is about women clothing. Would you make a video for a beginner? 😭😭😭

[@humanwithaplaylist]

Same. I desperately want men's clothing but resources are few

[@cliviali7410]

It's been 3 years and I'm still waiting for Part II

[@generalschakal]

Hammer Video, ich lerne eine Menge von dir und feier deinen Humor. Danke schön, und ich freue mich auf was noch so kommt. Was mich freuen würde wäre eine Episode von Secondhandladen bis zum fertigen outfit.

[@Vintagebursche]

Vielen Dank! Ja, eine Folge zu Second Hand Läden is ne super Idee.

[@blakerwalk]

Ist immer noch eine tolle Idee! =]

[@lorenzocastelli8709]

I love how 1920s suits really enhance the male silhouette. I wish this kind of cloths came back in style. :) Ps. I couldn’t stop looking at your amazing jacket.

[@emjenkins464]

This definitely explains to me why many "fast" women of the 1920's wore altered menswear suits with slim mid-calf length skirts that likely were a compromise of the fashionable womenswear and menswear silhouettes(?)

[@nadia.lewis.]

Love the silhouette! It’s refreshing to see a suit alternative on these modern eyes. 💕

[@IntotheDarkness]

Greetings, I belong to a group of role players that sometimes enjoy dressing up in vintage clothing, especially from the 1920s. I am glad to have discovered your channel and am passing it on to them. I have only watched 2 of your videos and intend on watching more. I would like to ask how you would handle such fashion in dressing rather large men, as I myself am overweight.

[@Vintagebursche]

Well, getting the early 1920s silhouette would be difficult, but you could look into the 1930s stuff. The cuts are roomier and more flattering for your body type. Double breasted suits and stripes are also helpful.

[@robertbarnes2040]

This video is so well produced, the set, lighting background music. Great attention to detail.

[@tjam9140]

Everything about the 1920s is fascinating. Enjoyable video!

[@AndyMcCavish]

2 videos in & I'm going to watch them all. While not a fashion person I do love when I come across someone who can make a subject interesting & engaging. Thankyou.

[@blackwood3243]

I live that dressing gown.

[@ghostnoterboomboom9119]

These are refreshing & inspirational! Thanks!!

[@gasparm.2711]

Fantastic content. I've been searching for something like this for years!

[@nevem5010]

Fascinating, thank you! I love the overall look created by the hourglass shape.

[@user-ht9rw2kg2p]

Now this is a WONDERFUL CHANNEL. great content, thank you!

[@azzmere]

I searched for early 1910s male fashion but i think this is better

[@kristinaasimova601]

Beautiful ❤Thank you for the video!

[@sowhatifimkarl]

Beautiful analogy. I love your videos

[@davidpoel1021]

This is an account i have been looking for for quite some time and i have to say i love it! You just got another subscriber

[@maggiema5948]

Thorough illustrations 🤩👍

[@EMMOV]

Loved the video, great job!

[@JNeil1975]

I'm a big fan of Leyendecker.

[@allenraysmith7889]

Great show dude!!

[@blakerwalk]

Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to make these. Your explanations are very clear and precise and your arguments logical and easy to follow. I feel that you have a depth of understanding beyond what you share in your videos and blog, but I'm simply guessing. Perhaps you also have thoughts on the social philosophy of men's wear in the 20th C?

[@danieldeluca7947]

Ich liebe deinen Hausmantel, hätte auch gerne so eins 😍

[@DragonheadSkilax]

This is the first time watching from your channels but I love it already! It’s always a pleasure to find more people making videos on the details and history of men’s fashion. This particular video connected to my interest of why 1920s era and older fashions appeal to me more and it’s because it fitted my body better than the wide shouldered small legged fashions of decades after/now. Partly due in part that i’m a transgender man so the equal shouldered high waists of 1920s clothing fits my form way better and again, happy to find this video!

[@eymanyouwell]

Back then, people in the sense of genderism was normal. Please don't stain a good way of life. Thank you.

[@lirakarina6494]

I'm in love with your work !

[@Vintagebursche]

You are too kind.

[@stem2603]

Gentleman's Gazette recommended your channel. No regrets! Followed immediately.

[@tinysataneatsyoursoul7709]

I adore your content, but also that coat! Subscribed 😁

[@tomrusack3266]

Love the robe. Perhaps an episode on accessories.

[@Shirinatra]

Tolles Video & super interessant! 🙏🏻

[@debraarnold3703]

Thank you for this! My great-great-grandfather came to America from Germany in 1800. His grandson was my great-grandfather, born 1880. I have many photos of my great-grandfathervwho was 5'2", in suits and ties, and my father told me he was a very proper gentleman. He certainly looks it. He was educated according to census records, always employed, and had a barge named after him upon his death from his military service. He died in 1952 just before I was born. His daughter was my grandmother, and she made wonderful German food, which my family makes, called sour beef. Souring the beef, which before refrigeration was the way the meat was preserved, (I think is the terminology.) It takes 3 days to make, and it's worth it. My father was very proud of his German heritage. I really enjoyed this video.

[@MsLarrythegreat]

If you would like to look up the dish, I believe what you are describing is named a "Sauerbraten." Literally, this translates to sour (sauer) roast (Braten). Thank you for your story! [PS: Just in case, for automatic translations of texts from English to German and vice versa, I often had better results with DeepL compared to Google Translate, which for some reason muddled up German sentences more than any other language I have put in to automatically translate.]

[@AspenTheGreat-dw5yx]

It's cool to see stories similar to mine! My great-great-grandfather came to America from Germany some time before the start of WWI, if my math is correct. I only know what little my dad knows about him though, which is that he was a butcher in Germany before coming here and that his name was John William, which means he probably changed it to sound more American when he got here. I'm hoping that Papa wrote about him in his journal, but I haven't had a chance to read it yet. But anyways, he's the reason my great-grandfather knew so much about butchering meat and he ended up teaching my dad some of what he knew.

[@marje1813]

I liked this video a lot. It would be really interesting if you would take a deeper dive into your German-American style theory though. Would love to hear more about that. Dank dir, mein Herr.

[@vinzenzboman607]

Legendäres Video mit Charisma.!

[@mbanasevych]

Awesome vid! I would love to see a vid where you could tell us where do you buy all these vintage stuff Btw, greetings from Ukraine! :)

[@hansdampf3531]

Super video!

[@Fenrisaconite]

Interestingly, the guy the "Arrow Collar Man" was based off, Charles Beach, was J.C. Leyendecker's life-long boyfriend.

[@sewinghedgehog540]

beautifully explained. thanks a lot :-)

[@louislamonte334]

I love your videos!! I hope to dress as fabulously as you do one day soon!!

[@johnwige2905]

This is exactly what I wanted.

[@AndrewBrewer30]

very interesting; thank you

[@isaacwalters5061]

Das ist fantastik! Perhaps and older video but I am new to your channel. I am glad you are making the immigration connection and its impact on American culture and fashion. Part of my MA in U.S. History was immigration history and I personally find this fascinating. (und natürlich, kommt die familie meiner mutter aus deutschland ;-) )

[@jeremylewis1142]

I am so glad to have stumbled upon your channel. My wife and I got the historical costuming bug from watching Bernadette Banner and while my wife has been able to find a lot of resources on historical dresses to start crafting, I have not had much luck finding resources for suits and such daily clothing for the 1920s for men. If you have any recommendations for further research I would love to hear back from you!

[@Vintagebursche]

Take a look here ☺️ vintagebursche.de/shops-and-brands/

[@ayaanmalik7389]

Do a video on ascots .. they are also quite good nowadays. Nyc video by the way. 👍❤

[@Bernhard2024]

Your English is pretty good! Respect!

[@jonmclaughlin4128]

I liked your comparison here. It is interesting to get an idea of how many German people were involved in the American culture of the era. This is an old vide now so it might have been addressed already but I felt like your video ended abruptly. This is essentially a video essay so I wonder if it could have been improved with a summary along the lines of "tell 'em what you told 'em"? This idea from the basic essay format of thesis, tell them what you are going to tell them, actually laying out the points, and then summary of what was said. What I am saying is that I would have been interested in another 2-3 minutes of this video 🙂 Thanks again for the insight.

[@allendavedeguzman9778]

"It's just tea, I swear." Made me laugh HSHSGSGSGA

[@thepearlatelier4256]

Amazing channel, impeccable taste. How about a tour of your house, i see the background is vintage as well. btw i just subscribed to your channel.

[@belagrolaub8746]

Thanks for mentioning J.C. Leyendecker! One of my favourite illustrators and a gay icon! One of his models for the Arrow Collar Man was his manager and life partner Charles Beach. His art radiates gay energy in general (he drew a lot of pretty men, i meannnnnnn-)

[@paladinclothiers3628]

Nicely done. I'm a huge fan of the Golden age of style. The 20's were not an era that would be kind to my bodybuilder frame.

[@carlito0308]

Excellent et très intéressant , bonne année bien a vous mon cher , Sir Lion

[@gregorythomas2674]

Hart Marx made great suits back in the 1980s. Hart Marx along with Hickey Freeman were solid brands with great quality. Then like most brands (aka Allen Edmonds) the quality goes down the tubes and the brand suffers. Informative video.

[@dannymurzi3533]

👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 bravo, Bravo… .I am your new fan and subscriber. greetings from Texas..

[@13jeancharles]

Super... adoro tu estilo... y tu eres un caballero muy guapo.

[@kennethoneal1641]

Hi Just found this last night. Loving the channel. Have watched several of you videos already. I especially liked the detail of hourglass vs V odd shape Do you have anything on the names of patterns and acceptable mixing of patterns and solids?

[@Vintagebursche]

I'll cover the fabrics in another video. 😊

[@1920sman]

I'd agree that there is a similarity between German and US men's fashions in the '20s. I too am a huge fan of the late 1910s and 1920s styles but with far more of a British perspective. I would add though that in the US, British styles were also a major influence, with most of the big name US based film stars of this period being dressed by London tailors (especially Anderson's (now Anderson and Sheppard) whose customers included Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks (both Snr and Jnr), Fred Astaire). It's interesting to note that Anderson was actually Swedish. Something you don't seem to have mentioned though, is that until the mid 1930s the collar bands on most shirts sat higher up the wearer's neck than on shirts made since this period. There were shirts with a lower neck and attached soft collars, designed for wearing open over the lapels of a jacket for a sporting look, but almost all other shirts sat higher. The slightly higher neck band and detachable collars along with reasonably soft and narrow shoulders in jacket styling considerably assist to create the '20s silhouette. There's a good book by David Page Coffin about shirt making that will show you how to alter the design of a shirt to achieve this - I'm currently moving house, but with the corona virus lock down will have to wait to get my copy from my other house. British trousers tended to be slightly less tapered than the German and US styles in the early '20s but most importantly if the trousers were pleated, most British trouser pleats folded inwards, most German pleats folded outwards. The US tended to prefer German style pleats to British and most modern ready to wear trousers are made with German style pleats. After the shorter trouser styles popular in Jazz suits in the late 1910s most higher quality British trousers which didn't have turn-ups (cuffs) often featured shaped leg ends which cover the sock to the shoe or boot but prevented the trousers draping with a break in the creases. I believe this was common in high quality trousers in Edwardian times as well as the teens and twenties. Also I have heard that George V apparently preferred to crease his trousers on the sides rather than the front and rear but his son, the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII) popularised front and back trouser creases in the 1910s. I'm not sure how accurate this last detail is, but thought you and others might find it interesting.

[@dualsport-travelercom]

Einen wunderschönen Sonntag Mittag, wiedermal ein tolles Video mit Information, Stil und dem nötigen Witz. Danke, Es würde mich sehr interessieren wo man einen so genialen Hausmantel herbekommt, machen lassen kann oder das Schnittmuster bekommen kann. Vielen Dank

[@Vintagebursche]

Der ist von Sebastian Hoofs aus Köln. Anleitung und Schnittmuster werden aber auch in unserem demnächst erscheinenden Buch enthalten sein. Einfach mal auf vintagebursche.de schauen. ☺️

[@dualsport-travelercom]

@@Vintagebursche Vielen Dank, das werde ich tun!

[@gabrieldefarias3914]

Perfect

[@Feltbeats2]

Could you please talk about the differences between the different clothing for different occasions? For example, whatsbthe difference between a dinner jacket and a regular jacket. Why did they change into a dinner jacket? Sport coats vs blazers. Etc. I would love to learn more about all of this!!😊😊❤❤

[@Vintagebursche]

I can seriously recommend the Gentleman's Gazette for general style topics like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/haTCd2t9jMtlZ5o However, I will talk about the history of the dinner suit at some point for sure. :)

[@LightemupWMH]

Great video. But where did you get that robe! I want it.

[@saldb]

Can you do a video in this same style but looking at 2020 fashion? The proportions are all different

[@alvarosanchez1976]

Dein video and KZbin Kanal sind sehr gut. Dein Kleidungsstil ist klassisch und hochentwickelt (und es ist sehr Geil). Ich muss von deinen Stil mehr zu lernen ; )

[@MrFredstt]

Amazing jacket you have on. Where did you get it?

[@truehappiness4U]

Love this video, I wish more men would dress like this. Recently I watched Chinese drama called Arsenal military academy. There is this character and his name is Chen Ting Bai. His fashion is like this and damn it looks so good on a man!

[@sridharsahoo1143]

Sir please inform which type of dress u wear in a particular video at the end of the video please

[@tomasevskiygnativ4424]

Super video wie immer, Niklas! Genau das was ich suche. :D Und jetzt wo du den Raphael erwähnst, was hälst du vom Gentlemans Gazette?

[@Vintagebursche]

Das ist sowohl stilistisch als auch unternehmerisch gesehen ein tolles, beeindruckendes Projekt.

[@devinpetersen2387]

Interesting smoking jacket. Was that a vauen tobacco pipe? I love the idea that your keeping fashion history alive and well!

[@Vintagebursche]

Yes, that's a Vauen pipe.

[@paulbroussard2907]

It makes sense to draw parallels between German & American aesthetics- even beyond Leyendecker and the other fashion influencers. Quite simply, there are many, MANY more Americans of German ancestry than of English ancestry. The English Thing was forced on German Americans by anglophile assimilationists.

[@alethearia]

How would one approach dressing a larger man? I'm assuming a lot of the basics are the same, but is there anything I should look out for?

[@emmarose9681]

I totally agree with what said about how men dress in how they use to keep themselves looking smart to how they dress now and I will say the same thing about some of the women to I love the way the men use to dress and the women I love vintage clothes I've always wanted to dress like but been too scared too I'm 46 year old woman and I don't know if it's too late for me to dress up in vintage clothes but I so love the style of the 1920 right up the the 50s and the Victorian era love watching your videos can't wait for the next one 😌💝

[@mamaco6499]

In the 1920s here in Brazil, fashion was exactly like the fashion in the USA

[@b.m.4345]

Realmente.

[@fabricio-agrippa-zarate1000]

All's good with the 1920s, but what about the nineteen teens? Or the Edwardian aesthetics? I'm very interested in those two eras :)

[@memberberries9294]

Can you do one in the early 1940s please

[@hpottstock]

Great video! I wonder if Herr Schneider from the GG knows about this mention...?

[@Vintagebursche]

Browse through the comment section. 😉

[@kadecox7591]

You honestly remind me of Gentleman’s Gazette

[@arghyapal9253]

Wow...👍

[@benderbendingrofriguez3300]

where can you buy detachable collars?

[@kikosebas1]

Where did you get that beautiful dressing gown? I would love to get one!

[@Vintagebursche]

It's selfmade according to our sewing book: vintagebursche.de/produkt/pre-order-sewing-vintage-menswear-international-edition/?lang=en :)

[@tantibusdraws6165]

It’s 2020. If there was ever a time to get into 1920s fashion it’s now.

[@Lakk6Metal]

Can i mix Steampunk and Gatsby style ?

[@DaltonHBrown]

0:16 You read my mind 🧐

[@esquireflowers85]

What is the name of the knot this gentleman is wearing ? I’ve been trying find the name forever somebody please help me

[@samuelmatheis]

good evening, hahaha, die zwischenbitte mit pfeife hat gesessen, hahaha! sehr lustig geworden. good wishes and regards...ps haha und die heimliche nachricht an rafael am ende haha

[@nathanauguste9696]

In which store or brand can we find clothings of this era?

[@maverickfox4102]

I for one would wear a jacket one size larger for better movement.

[@hanswezen]

Was würdest du sagen ist der größte Unterschied zwischen Alltagsmode der 20er in Deutschland und das Kostümdesign in expressionistischen Filmen wie zum Beispiel Metropolis, Caligari etc.? :)

[@MacMichael267]

The picture at 2:06 made me laugh my ass, erm pardon me, my lower high waist off :)

[@PenTangleify]

As someone who loved Vintage when I dressed in a very feminine way but has struggled to do so as someone who now prefers androgynous or masc looks, thank youuuuu

[@nylehilahy1848]

Does any high-end tailor can make 1890's to 1920's styled garments like yours or should I go to a period tailor? Or if I know all the style details of the period I want to recreate could a normal high-end tailor make them? For instance if I go to Henry Poole, Anderson and Sheppard or Huntsman could they make me a suit based on their archive from the 1890's to 1920's period?

[@Vintagebursche]

I went to Sebastian Hoofs, who actually is a high-end tailor (based in Cologne). This can work, but it really depends on the individual master cutter/tailor that is doing the work. In Savile Row I'd probably go to Dege&Skinner, because they have a cutter who is interested in this era and they also have a lot of experience with historical uniforms.

[@nylehilahy1848]

@@Vintagebursche Thanks a lot Niklas :)

[@sk_luowl]

Bestimmt haben sie es schon irgendwann mal gesagt, aber welche Modezeitschriften meinen sie zu der Zeit?