EASILY Move Your Chicken Tractor - Chicken Coop Wheels

Have you built a chicken tractor and now find that it is really hard to move because it's heavy? That's what I did, then I found this wheel lift kit that made it all better...
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Egg Cart'n Wheet Lift Kit
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[@FoodForestPermaculture]

Cheers fellow earthling

[@AmaponianVisitor]

Glad to see your videos, greetings from Venezuela.

[@agomodern]

Doors swinging in keeps chickens from being able to escape easily. You could have made the door shorter to fit inside and still giving plenty of room to enter. Doesn't appear the chickens try to get out, but they sure do when I want to go into my chicken run.

[@daddykirbs]

great point. Thank you!

[@kickinitwithkaren]

Thanks!

[@daddykirbs]

Wow thanks Karen!

[@davidlewis4179]

Do you plan on keeping your chickens in the tractor over winter? I'm in Central New York so we can expect a day or two during winter as low as 20°F. I currently have a coop with no access to fresh grass, but it is insulated for winter. I'm thinking about building a tractor next spring. I already have the 16×4 cattle panels. How's your yellow LLHs doing? I'm up to 6 LLHs now.

[@rogerpackham15]

How has the kit held up?

[@sassafrasinspired2029]

Fantastic! Are those layers or for eating?

[@daddykirbs]

These will be dual purpose. This is my first time tractoring a flock full time, so we'll see how this goes.

[@rudyfloyd2804]

Where do you buy this lift system?

[@daddykirbs]

Egg Cart'n Wheet Lift Kit eggcartn.com/wheel-lift-kit/

[@benjaminbrewer2154]

Lateral with conduit slides. Is my preference.

[@daddykirbs]

Talk to me about the conduit slides. I'd like to have a better idea of what you are suggesting.

[@benjaminbrewer2154]

@@daddykirbs Wheels are good for long distance moves, but are expensive. Still working out the gin-pole and a bit of rigging for long distance moves. But for short distance moves non-metallic conduit or well-pipe that is a bit longer than the width or depth of the coop. With two pieces of pipe face the coop in the direction that you wish to move it. Lift one corner of the coop and slide the first pipe underneath the rail about a foot from the corner and only an inch into the coop. Repeat with the second corner. Walk to the dirty side (trailing) Lift the side of the coop and walk forward slowly The ducks/turkeys/chickens/fowl will see the bar of light open up and they will see your feet and move to the leading edge. The pipe is not moving, so no risk to being rolled over like a miniature Indiana Jones. The trailing side of the coop is raised and will be lowered slowly while listening distress or pinching. Undo the pipe by kneeling on the leading edge lifting and pulling the pipe. If during daylight hours I might leave the conduit in place as the duck coop gets multiple moves a day and the chicken coop only gets a move every 4-6 days. My rabbit tractors are designed 3x8 designed to be lifted swung and dropped slowly. This would work for ducks as well if the 2x4" wire wasn't added.

[@benjaminbrewer2154]

(Food should always be on the leading edge, water on the trailing edge. If they spill food remove the food and make a half move and come back in an hour to return the food.) I've tried most of the mobile coop concepts that are out there. Minimizing material costs while providing adequate shelter and defense. I've made many mistakes suchas weight, visibility, temperature, mobility; and am working on putting together a four hoop 9x9' hoop coops to spread out my critter density. Last year I overbuilt a hoop-coop from a couple pictures without doing proper research. A 12x7 footprint, ended up being about 350 lbs. I moved it for a while with 12" long 1" diameter conduit rollers and an aluminum baseball bat (3" diameter for larger rocks and roots). Before installing push mower wheels whose bearing failed.

[@theiceageiscoming.5516]

💪😎🇺🇲

[@FFMMA]

$382 hahahaha