Easy Bore Welding Line Boring How To Set Up - Use on Caterpillar Komatsu Case John Deere Etc.

[@metalsage5135]

This is such an innovative and efficient way of doing bore repair. The shop I work at uses a system that is completely obsolete. It would have been cutting edge technology about 80 years ago though.

[@tutekohe1361]

Great tool, clear and concise instructions, well set up demo. Let down only by shaky camera work. A tripod or some such would have made all the difference.

[@GEO-vc1pc]

If you buy this product you'll be let down again I promise

[@JimmysTractor]

5:23 you can't get an accurate center off a worn hole. Wear is never symetrical. For an accurate center, you must be sure that all pins are parallel and measure against factory drawings or from edges of assembly. Last thing you want is a pin that is centered based on past wear patterns, that will just multiply the wear rate of the new components. I hope there aren't people boring based on worn holes.

[@borerepair1]

that is why the mounts are adjustable - so if necessary X-Y can be adjusted

[@joseluisgonzalezcampusano3273]

Very good explication Thanks . But the Camera must do a more zoom

[@gallant19650]

i do this type of machining and more,nice machine but we made ours home made since we are machiniste by trade ,i like the way you explaine very nice ;)

[@mecanicapesada2225]

Hi very good efficient with makes to buy a set of this, and where factory, and how many dollars I will pay

[@ramchandramali2053]

How many prise in lndian rupis

[@buynsell365]

Very, Very nice !!! I wish I had this system back when I was doing this type of work. Man would this had made life easier !!!! I am not sure how much this cost but I am confident it is worth it, after doing it the hard way many many times. LOL

[@RC-Heli835]

When you did this how did you do it? I assume manually welding it up and honing it back out to a snug fit on the bushing. What did you hone the bore with? Thanks.

[@buynsell365]

I worked for a machine shop that did a lot of work for the state. We fixed a lot of there heavy equipment and tractors that they used for cutting grass. We built our own line boring setup. Notice I did not use the words "line boring machine"....lol. It was simply just a bar of cold roll that we drilled a hole in for the cutter. Made some end cap's that we put bearings in that could be welded like all line bore systems. To drive it we used a 3/4 inch milwaukee drill. There was no fancy feeding system. We simply had to ears welded onto one side of the bearing pad with a leaver that pushed against a collar that was tighten down on the cold roll bar. So to operate this beast you had to hold the drill, squeeze the drill trigger, and with the other hand hold and push the leaver to feed it as it bored out the hole. Yes, if you feed it to fast it would hang up / break tool bit and the drill would spin around and dam near break your arm. We did not have to hit a certain ID because we made all of our own bushings. I would make the bushings over size then heat up the bore and quickly insert the bushing. We would come back and hone the inside if I was off a little. Most of the time I got it right on the money and just hit it with sand paper to shine it up. This is why I am saying the solution in the video is heaven compared to having to literally do it by hand. It was a balancing act to have to operate the drill and manually feed the bar into the cut and maintain a smooth consistent feed. How do they say "That was the good old days" ........LMAO. As for the hone we simply used a manual engine hone that you by at auto zone. Once again simply attached to drill and used it to clean up inside. Nothing fancy, but it got the job done.

[@RC-Heli835]

Thanks for the reply naCra60na! I picked up some end of boom bushings for a worn Kubota 61 Mini Excuvator yesterday and just as I feared when first seeing the bushings, the bore has worn out at least 1/8' all the way around the bushing and even more towards the outside. I need some way to over bore it and put a sleeve in it before the bushings will even work. The OD of the bushing is about 1.5 inches. I have a lathe but no way for boring. I have a lathe and drill press but nothing to bore with. I have some 1-1/8 round stock I could make a bar with if I had bearings and cups that fit. And where would I find bits for such a bar?

[@buynsell365]

With a lathe and a drill press you have everything you need to make this happen. Since this sounds like a one time thing, I would not bother with making the bearing cups, I would just use metal bushings instead. Step 1: decide on the size bar you need and then cut one that will be long enough for the job. I like to use cold roll. Don't worry about drilling the hole in the bar for the tool just yet. We need to get it mounted first so we can determine where to drill the holes. Step 2: You need to make two alignment bushings. This is just some scrap iron bar that is larger than the current ID of the worn out bushings on the boom. You will chuck them up in the lathe and put a 45 degree taper on it. The whole thing does not need to be more than about 3 inches wide. You will need two of them, one for each side with a hole in the center the diameter of the cold roll you will use for the bar. This will slide over the bar and be used to center it and then weld on the end cap bushings. Step 3: Since this will be a one time job, no need to make bearing cups, just simply take 6 x 1/4 flat bar. Cut it to about 8 inches or so and then take another scrap round bar of about 2 1/4 OD x 2" long and weld it to the center of the flat bar. Then chuck up in the lather and bore a hole in the center a little over the size of your cold roll bar that you will use for boring. This is what you are going to use instead of bearings.....a simple bushing that you will use grease. You are going to only bore out two holes....so this will last just fine if you apply oil / grease to bushings. Step 4: Assemble everything to the boom. Insert the bar.......then slide the alignment bushings on each end and push them into the holes on each side. this will center the bar. Then slide on the end cap bushings you made in Step 3 and use some scrap metal to weld them in place to boom. Give yourself about 6 to 8 inches from bushing cap to boom so you have space to insert tool into bar and work. Step 5: Now that you have the assembly welded to the boom. Slide the bar out. (make sure when you weld the end caps in place that you keep turning the bar so you don't jam it up. I should turn freely). When you take the bar out the alignment bushings will drop out. Now it's time to work on the bar. Turn one end down to a nub that fits your drill chuck. You will need a pretty strong drill for this. We used a 3/4 drill. with the cold roll bar in the assembly with drill nub on it, pull it all the way to one side so the end of the bar is flush with the end cap. Then measure out and mark where you are going to drill the whole about 2 inches from inside. You need measure this out on both sides because you are going to drill two holes. This is where your carbide tool bit will be inserted. If you have a lathe then you will have carbide tool bits. Here is a link to some on ebay ...you one need one tool bit.....not a set www.ebay.com/p/20pc-1-4-Carbide-Tip-Tipped-Cutter-Tool-Bit-Cutting-Set-for-Metal-Lathe-Tooling/1656453539?iid=281421635282 Step 6: so now you should have two holes drilled in bar. Each hole is going to be about 2 inches in front of the hole that needs to be bored. You will need to dill and tap a hole 90 degree's on top of this hole for a set screw. The set screw will hold the tool bit in place. Yes, you will need to grind the square tool bit a little to get it to fit into the hole because the tool bits are square. Cut the tool bit to fit....insert set screw and make sure it fits and it tight. Now you should have a working system there.......you have a nub on the end for the drill to turn it......put some oil on the bushings and see how it works. Now the only thing left is to make a lever to feed it. Step 7: On the side where you have the drill. I wish I could upload a drawing of this because it is hard to explain in words. You will need to weld to tab's that have holes drilled in them to the bushing cap plate. This is where one end of the leaver will be bolted to. The leaver is going to be made from two 1"x1/4" flat bar. You need it to be two pieces because you have to go over the boring bar. Meaning the boring bar will be in the center of the leaver. I would say you need the leaver to be about 3 feet long. Now comes the tricky part. You need three clamp collars like the one in this link: www.grainger.com/product/29NW06?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916684477!!!!66418500319!&ef_id=WUPoZgAAAHFg4BpO:20171018134811:s&kwid=productads-adid^50916684477-device^c-plaid^66418500319-sku^29NW06-adType^PLA Slide all three on the bar. Tighten the first and third clamp to the bar. Leave the center one free. The center one will attach to the leaver. Your leaver will go over it. It needs to be able to swivel, so what we did is drill a hole all the way threw one clamp. Then inserted split pin. The split pin would go threw a hole in the leaver.....this holding it in the center of the leaver and allowing it to swivel. This gives you the ability to push on the leaver and then this will mash the two clamps together. One is fixed to the bar and the other is free but attached to leaver. This will push the bar in and when you pull back it will mash against the other and gives you the ability to pull back. You will of course need grease in between the clamps on the face's. This will provide you the ability to push, pull and feed the bar threw the bore. That's all there is to it. I may not have been completely clear on some things. A drawing would really help. But I am sure you can figure it out. It's going to knock the hell out of you at least once. Then you will get the hang of the feed. If you use a mag base drill, then you don't need the leaver .......just use the feed on the mag-base drill. You can rent one of these. Probably would be easier and faster.

[@RC-Heli835]

Thanks man! I think I about have it pictured. Should I over bore the hole and use a larger bushings or try and build the holes up with weld then bore that back to standard bushing size. The stock bushings are only 1/8" thick which really surprised me .

[@linhlevan8464]

how much money?

[@tstpowered]

What Miller welder are you using?

[@borerepair1]

XMT304 cc/cv w/12RC feeder

[@JimmysTractor]

2:27 3.3hp from what looks like a standard 120V plug. With a 90% efficient motor, that is 2,734 watts. After that, it's hard to take anything seriously for the remaining 95% of video.

[@borerepair1]

it is not a standard plug

[@dumyjobby]

how much is it

[@kinawyamr]

I am intersted for this system i want to know how much price [e-mail] 00201222149388 wattsap

[@narendersaini7111]

Distributer in India

[@hiscifi2986]

Can't help but think this would not pass UK Health and Safety regulations, where rotating parts require a safety cover. Also the gap between the Auto Feed and Manual Feed is just big enough to trap a finger or hand. I wonder what was the country of manufacture.

[@JimmysTractor]

Country of be responsible if you are going to work on heavy machinery. Your brain is your number 1 piece of safety equipment.