Easy Box Joint Jig // The Most Versatile Box Joint Jig!

There are so many jigs out there that are limited to one tooth size or another. This is not one of those! I’ve paid for and built jigs that were as large as my table saw top that needed a college degree to understand. This jig does any size tooth and is incredibly simple with free instructions that work with this video.
Advanced Crosscut Sled: • Advanced Crosscut Sled...
Instructable: www.instructab...
Wholesome by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.fi...
License: creativecommons...
Modern Jazz Samba" by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
License: CC BY (creativecommons...)

[@OldDunollieman]

Simply the best box joint instructional video on KZbin. 10/10 . Thankyou.

[@MakeThings]

Thanks man!

[@BuildsStuff]

Well done dude. That's how jigs should be, super simple and easy to use. I may have to steal that idea...

[@MakeThings]

Steal away...check out the instructable for it...it’s free!

[@BuildsStuff]

@@MakeThings But how much is this free instructable... It's free right! [Let's play spot the TV reference]

[@MakeThings]

Builds & Stuff I even tried to cheat with google, but google failed me. 🤣

[@TakamiWoodshop]

Did you see what he said about West Auckland at 1:56 ?

[@BuildsStuff]

@@TakamiWoodshop Low blow, and I thought it was a SKERPLE. And I've only ever seen them in the deep South, not around here...

[@kennethrutledge9222]

Now that’s a jig!!! I love it!! It’s the ticket!! I’ll make it !! The only thing that I’ll probably change is the material, I have some oak that will make nice 1 inch blocks for the screw rod assembly!!

[@genedeahl7453]

😊 I make jewelry boxes. I have tried so many different jigs and they all were terrible at best. So I watch this video many times and thought I would give it a try. I am very impressed. Now I have only had a short time working with it. I wanted to make wood hinges mostly and they are varied widths depending on the project. This handles any size any! Thinking about making one for the router table. I just want to thank you for the idea. I changed it some for my needs but it works great.

[@rehkram]

Wow, great idea. My shop jig project for 2021 was designing and building a table saw sled. This would be a perfect accompaniment for it. Trouble is, I'm such a nerd 🤓 that my OCD is already kicking-in just thinking about it. This could take some time . . .

[@CitizenAyellowblue]

Lots of clever, elegant baroque box joint jigs out there on KZbin. But this is the most elegant and “accessible” by far. Simple, effective and smaller than a tiny house. Well done indeed!

[@MakeThings]

Haha thanks!

[@acousticsoundmaker]

Great idea for making box joints where you want different width fingers. Simple and it works! Hards to beat that. Great instruction and video. Thanks for making the directions available for free.

[@thomassciurba5323]

Box joints are my go to for drawers, decorative boxes and even shop storage. A box joint jig that indexes with a threaded rod is the way to go for flexibility and accuracy. This is a nice simple version for doing occasional ox joints. I built the Ed Stiles version which is slightly more complicated but has a couple of nice extra features. Also a box joint blade set is a nice to have extra, it simplifies things and gives a nice flat bottom to the joints. I even use it for 1/4 dados for drawer bottoms, no fussing with a stacked dado set. The single biggest problem I have is dialing in the cut height, you just have to run some scrap through. I like to cut just slightly deep and clean it up with a sander after assembly.

[@aprildegele1510]

I've subscribed, but weirdly I found this video on Instructables. Thanks for being in both places!

[@thomasverga469]

I built a much more complicated sled version from another video and it worked very well, but it had to be dedicated to that saw and cost more than $20. this is pure genius and is cheap to make. Thank you

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

Nice job,I do wonder if an Acme thread with a 4 start on it would be better for this and some sort of physical reference that you can feel, see and and count as you wind it round would give you a really good advantage especially on the larger gapping, I need to think on this further as it wouldn't be difficult to insert a wheeled counter in to this. Tally checker or similar I am thinking with a zero option.....On nice woods you donotwant to be missing the steps... .. Great job thanks for the ideas and video....

[@petermarsh4993]

Dear Rob, of all the box joint / table saw jigs I have seen, your advanced model would have to take the prize for ease of use and accuracy of result. Well done. Another woodworker from Down-under. Cheers.

[@MakeThings]

Thanks Peter! I have a lot of pals in Australia (or are you from New Zealand?). So many I wish I lived closer!

[@petermarsh4993]

Hi Rob, I live in South Australia - driest state on the driest continent on earth. Where we live however in a good year we get 750~800mm of rain a year. Best red wine growing area in the world {but I may be biased}. Cheers.

[@1arm_658]

This is a nice hybrid between the simple tooth box jigs and the extremely complex indexing jigs I've seen. Good idea.

[@MakeThings]

Thanks! It really is a simple solution and fun to use.

[@christianscustoms6429]

I love the idea behind this. The threaded rod for increments is really nifty. I’m definitely going to use that when I make my own

[@lylemorton8641]

Now this one is something I think I can build and it’s versatile. A keeper for sure. Thanks a ton.

[@MakeThings]

You bet!

[@danceswithaardvarks3284]

Finally made this jig and it works great with some slight improvements that you hint at in the Instructable: 1) Made a 12 position indexed dial, 1/12 turn extra on the spacing cycle gives perfect fitting joints. 2) Use backing sleds with no cutaway to avoid tear-out, boards are reusable on projects with same sized finger joints. Also finding it useful to make several small boxes (for micrometers) at once. Made four 18mm high boxes by jointing four 85mm wide boards to make a large box, making extra turns where box lids and bottoms can be ripped. Thanks for providing Instructable as I got confused a bit by orientation changes in the videos.

[@peterneumann7145]

Made something similar just before I saw this. I used 8mm rod and worked out that 5.25 turns gave me the correct fit purely for dedicated 1 cut finger joints using my .130 inch flat toothed blade. But with screw advance you can finely adjust the number of turns for any occasion . Over here we can buy threaded rod connectors which are over 1 inch long and give you better engagement than tee nuts. Very pleased with the outcome . My threaded rod was also enclosed as the whole fence moved .

[@jvmiller1995]

I built one 5 or 6 years ago and it does make great joints but mine uses a dado and the fingers are the same width every time. But it makes very fast accurate cuts after the dado is set up. It is a beast it looks like a oversized typewriter that you squeeze a grip on one hand it pulls the part over the set distance and you squeeze the other grip and it locks down as you push it through then squeeze right hand it slides squeeze left hand it locks to make the cut and so on. It is very fast but not the best if you only have a few joints to do. I like how simple this is though. I think my next one will be one of the jigs that uses set of fingers or blocks on the backside of the fence that you layout to the pattern you want. If you have not sean one they are pretty clever too. I have a thing for jigs so maybe I will make one along this method just for the occasional joint as it is pretty clever.

[@TheSkiggly]

Yes Sir - easy and accurate build

[@BruceAUlrich]

Great way of explaining it! I'd say you definitely made a very capable, but not overly complicated box joint jig.

[@MakeThings]

Thanks Bruce, always love your feedback!

[@IEnjoyCreatingVideos]

Great job on the box joint jigs Rob! Thanks for always sharing with us!💖👌👍😎JP

[@MakeThings]

Thanks JP!

[@IEnjoyCreatingVideos]

Your very welcome Rob! Have a awesome week!😎

[@alanmcwilliams4264]

Very nice build, I like the advanced feature at the end, it's practical I enjoy the options you show on you videos

[@iq0099]

your sled is rocking on the table saw surface!!

[@MakeThings]

You’re absolutely right, that sled is garbage! I was still able to make some good looking joints though 😂 This video is that sled’s last hurrah.

[@richardcarlson5189]

Thanks I was looking for a diy box jig. May God bless

[@BadWolf7606]

You are genius. Simple and effective

[@MakeThings]

Haha thanks. Appreciate it!

[@danceswithaardvarks3284]

Awesome. I have an unfinished machinists cabinet, because I couldn't decide how to make the box joints. Now I know. Thanks

[@MakeThings]

Make sure you grab the instructable! Absolutely free.

[@danceswithaardvarks3284]

@@MakeThings Will do. Just got round to it a year later. The wood for the cabinet has been gathering dust.

[@stephandelange1776]

pretty genius idea. I might try it for myself. Congratz. Good video!

[@MakeThings]

Thanks Stephan!

[@WoodenItBeNice]

Hi Rob, I have seen many box joint jig videos on KZbin. This has to be the best I have watched. Reasons are, It is simple to use, Easy to Make, You can use it on a sled or miter gauge and the video explains it all so perfectly. One more FREE INSTRUCTABLES!!!!! Brilliant work Rob and a jig I will be making as I haven't made one yet for the opposite reasons as to why I love this one. Take care, Rob. Cheers, Huw

[@MakeThings]

Wow! What a wonderful comment! I aim to make every project as simple as I can so it’s easy to make but also easy to diagnose if there’s a problem. Thanks for the comment and let me know if there are any problems with the instructions. Best way I’ll get those comments are at instructables (for some reason youtube has hiccups and I don’t always get them).

[@conrat2000]

This is the best jig I've saw so far. Nice design. For a thin kerf blade, would using a fine thread 3/8"-24 a bit better? Would two turns approximately equal 3/32"? My blade is about that thick.

[@equiposequinos2414]

Great, it is without a doubt the best video I have seen to make this type of unions, congratulations and the best wishes, that great ideas continue to arrive

[@wb_finewoodworking]

Yep, Rob that jig attached to a miter gauge is outstanding! It’s one I have to remember for the future, especially if I want to make some box joints that I can’t make on my router table. Great idea!

[@MakeThings]

Thanks Don!

[@juandavidmejia]

Great. I will definitely make one for my shop!!! Thanks.

[@kristophermarsh9400]

Well done on the project and the video.

[@davidharvey5672]

Great! I'm going to make one as soon as I get some threaded rod. Thanks

[@sumosprojects]

Genius mate, particularly the way that you’re using thread inserts & nuts which are the bare basics of many operations. It’s remarkable how you design this jig as a multi purposed jig with the sled. Keep being creative as you are Rob 🍻👍👍👍👍

[@MakeThings]

Thanks buddy, that means a lot. Yep, there are so many little things that you can take and make cool bigger things out of. I love it!

[@nicholasbrokling1508]

Brilliant I need to make a heap of draws this info will be ideal. Thanks heaps, cheers from Australia

[@MakeThings]

Thank you, check out the instructable!

[@sxgaston]

I love this. And I especially love how you explain everything. Thank you so much.

[@MakeThings]

Seriously, my pleasure! I have a passion for this that I like to share. Thank you so much for your positive comment!

[@thegoodfight365]

Thanks for sharing your work. You're great at explaining what you're doing. 👍🏾

[@duncanvincent9106]

Excellent. Thanks

[@ranger5309]

Really great idea! Sorry I’m late for the party!

[@johnd126]

I made this today. My first couple of tests were using smaller pieces of wood (3" x 6", maybe) using the 2-cuts-4-space pattern but I wasn't able to hold the wood reliably so the teeth and spaces weren't even. I cut the jig down to 5" high and that helped but they still weren't cut reliably. My final test was using larger pieces of plywood and the 10-cuts-12-space pattern and it worked pretty well! So, it does work but I need to figure out a method of moving smaller pieces of wood through it. Thanks for the idea! BTW, all the hardware for the jig cost $25 at Canadian Tire. (I had the wood.)

[@aaronjenson162]

Yes! This is the simplest and cleanest design I’ve ever seen. Absolutely brilliant, Thank You. I liked, liked again, liked one more time and double checked my subscription! Not kidding- I’m building it as soon as I get the t-nuts delivered (Really HD, 3 stores all out?) You could make multiple versions of that last clamping plate to hold the piece at different angles and do mitres or segments, too. Thanks again.

[@MakeThings]

Thank you! Make sure you check out the instructable.

[@dougstucki8253]

This is crazy simple and the best idea I've seen in a while! I was dreading building the Mattias Wandel monstrosity, so I'm so glad I came across your video. The ability to go down to 1/32 with a 1/2 turn is all I'll ever need. Thank you!!

[@MakeThings]

No problem! I have his design and while it was fun to build, I really don't like how gargantuas it is.

[@MarkMcCluney]

I always look forward to settling down and really absorbing your vids Rob. I enjoy your presentation and appreciate the effort made in all the details; the opening animation with the vacuum cleaner is terrific. And the quality of your ideas and their execution is always impressive. This one I found particularly interesting. Thanks Rob, I thoroughly enjoyed that. And now, if you'll excuse me, I'm off to watch it again. Stay healthy mate.

[@MakeThings]

Aww, thanks Mark. That means a lot to me. I have a lot of fun (usually unless I’m pressed for time) making those little openings but rarely ever get any mention for them. Thanks, as always, for watching these. 😉

[@66scotty73]

Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to make this easier for the rest of us. Great jig - great video and instructions!

[@MakeThings]

My pleasure, thank you!

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty fantastic job, dude! Really well done! 😃 My space here is almost done, it's just finishing painting and putting some protection on the stairs... Then I'm going to be able to start buying power tools. So, anyway... Soon enough I'm going to build something like that! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@MakeThings]

Keep my instructable bookmarked. It’s an extremely easy build. Thank you!

[@MCsCreations]

@@MakeThings Be sure I will! Thanks! 😃

[@FirewoodDesigns]

Awesome jig and video. I think I'm going to have to add this to my jig collection!

[@MakeThings]

You won’t be disappointed bro! Thanks for watching 👊

[@jasonbailey9139]

This seems so much more approachable than Matthias's design. For a hobbyist who isn't going to be making boxes all the time, I think this one requires the right amount of effort and resources. Enough to prove you're serious, but not so much that you've got got to dedicate days and I like that it isn't a whole new sled that takes up more space I don't have.

[@MakeThings]

It’s funny you say that. I have Mathias’s sled. I’ve had it for about 4 years now. I bought the plans, got every detailed part down to finding a bearings place that sold me just the right bearing his plans called for. I built it and used it a couple times. Why? Because it is enormously complicated. It’s surely a magnificent tool, but it takes up so much space and I never got the hang of it. This one does it better. It’s simple and doesn’t require several gears. I mean, I just watched his video the other day and he had a drawer full of gears for it 🤯

[@jasonbailey9139]

@@MakeThings You gotta push the gears when your website is woodengears.ca ;) Yeah, he builds some cool machines that take up way too much room for the amount of time I'd actually use them.

[@brianlasch144]

great build, I'll be making this shortly, one of the easiest jigs I have seen

[@garagemonkeysan]

Nice video. Great design. Mahalo for sharing! : )

[@IsaKocoglu]

As per usual, awesome stuff! Thank you and keep up your great work please.

[@MakeThings]

Thank you!

[@agn855]

WOW, the perfect *kickback* scenario… 01:01

[@zavoina]

Outstanding.

[@matthewcarpenter4716]

Okay now that one I want to make now!

[@MakeThings]

Hit instructables man, it’s a really easy build! 👍

[@adrianscarlett]

I'd swap the threaded rod for an ACME leadscrew as threaded rod is not guaranteed to have a uniform tpi count. You'll find they fit together far more satisfyingly if the indexing mechanism is accurate.

[@sajidrafique375]

I made the Ed Stiles jig but I like yours for simplicity

[@MakeThings]

Four years ago I made Mathias's. And while it's a beautiful jig, it is enormous and takes a lot of time to learn and understand widths based on gear ratios. I like being able to use it on my sled because it's not another jig I have to find or store. Since I already have a sled, why not embed it into it?

[@michaelsemenchuk3056]

Cool idea. Your crank would benefit from a detent (spring and ball bearing) so the crank stops in the same place every time.

[@TheWingnut58]

I used 1/2 dia x 1/4 L neo's, one in the crank and one in the jig...works like a charm...

[@thorlo1278]

No Instagram, Twitter, FB, Pinterest, etc. No Social Media AT ALL! Don't want the pain in the keester! So, it is here or not at all. Sorry that I disappoint you, but I do like your builds! 😁

[@DmitriIvanov]

Nice jig, well done! I always use the little spacer trick with a router - never tried this on a table saw yet!

[@MakeThings]

Give it a try! Free plans: www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Box-Joints-Adjustable-Tooth-Widths/

[@larrykostopulos1332]

Natures Magic Glue. In Australia we call it the Roman Goddess of Sticky Situations - Aralditee.

[@MakeThings]

Haha I love that!

[@stevengary7664]

I like thinking screwing to sled after few rounds I'd mess things up n need more holes.....lol way I am. So my thoughts are drill holes in sled common areas I can attach other items like a hold down use nut n bolt! 1 n done always in same place

[@gundur7193]

Kolay yapımı gerçekten.. süper

[@priscwy794frag]

This jig is just deceptively simple. One can make it relatively easy. However, to use the jig effectively one must have hours of practice, which does not seem necessary at first glance. Previously I have made three types of finger joint jigs, one being this type, and each one demands different amount of time to master. This particular jig is in the longer time group to master, but has it's advantages as well. Advantages are every size of finger, every size of space, interesting counting, and definitely simultaneous cutting of both pieces.

[@MakeThings]

You're exactly right. This jig takes time to get right, like all tools. I wish more people understood this as there is a bit of skill needed to master this. Thanks!

[@ElTelBaby]

... Ingenious ...

[@priscwy794frag]

For metric version I made this jig (M10 nut, Φ10 bar) but found a problem that maybe is not related to metric or imperial system whatsoever. T nut stays little bit loosely on threaded bar generally. The same holds for simple nut as well. So, when such t nut or simple nut are inserted into wooden pin, the pin will also be somewhat loose on threaded bar, and consequently wooden pin will wobble say about a millimeter at the top. To compensate for that, I tried using several nuts together, welded them as a whole but that didn't rectify the problem, maybe just a little. However I find the solution: the pin wooden cube should be drilled first for threaded bar, and then drilled partially just for t nut. Additionally you can add another drilled cube horizontally and glue it to the pin cube. That is how wobbling of pin is eliminated.

[@andreasharitakis7012]

I also made a metric version M10 where instead of a T-nut I threaded my pin and have no wobble whatsoever. I did a lot of tries today but unsuccessfully. I am sure it has to do with everything been metric. Even my blade. (2.8 mm). I will experiment a bit before giving up.

[@MrGrundle]

I think it would really help knowing the theory behind the 3/8-16 threaded rod. I assume it is 16 cranks to an inch. I think an explanation of the mechanics of it would help greatly. This is a great jig and one I am looking forward to making.

[@MakeThings]

Think about it like this: a 1/16th of an inch would be one revolution. 16 cranks equals 1 inch. Did I just say what you said, yes I did, but...backwards, so it doesn't count. Big tip on using this: Have patience. It'll take skill to learn to use this just like any other tool/jig in your shop. It doesn't make them super easy, but it's easier than builds like Mathias' massive jig (big respect for him) and many gears needed to do different gaps. I say that because I strongly believe in this jig. It's super easy to make, it's super easy to use. The mechanics are simple. The difficulty lies in counting each pass and making sure you get it right. Another difficulty is making sure you keep your wood absolutely flat to the table. Some people have been dissatisfied that it wasn't as easy as they thought it would be. Joints are never easy. To get perfect fits, you need lots of practice and lots of patience. It's a skill, just like anything else. Let me know if you make it! Send me an email showing yours off, I can't begin to tell you how happy it makes me to see someone make something I've thought up! [e-mail]

[@MrGrundle]

@@MakeThings Thanks for the reply. After watching countless videos on box joint jigs, I think this is the way to go!

[@BronkBuilt]

Great idea!

[@gsilcoful]

Very cool. Thank you.

[@TheMessyStudio]

Cool jig, Rob! Billy

[@MakeThings]

Thanks Billy!

[@roseericson3828]

This is great!

[@DrivewayWorkshop]

Nice job!

[@misteredetsamarquet2w2-min11]

Very genious ... !

[@littlebullseye901]

Well done!

[@MakeThings]

Thank you!

[@TakamiWoodshop]

Looks legit Rob 👍👍 And hey - how about those weirdos that call Sharpies - "Skerpie" - that's as odd as finding a 3 in a binary search. 🤪 But while we're on the subject of "undeveloped" countries let's talk about 3/8 - 16 threaded rod. Turns out that two turns of that puppy advances the pin by 1/8 of an inch where a blade kerf is 1/8" which _is_ indeed a coincidence of note. But in the vidjeo your hand actor does one cut for each rotation ... omg - I'm confusered - is he cutting the thin air on the second pass? Answer: no - he is cutting 1/16" each time (half a blade width) - so question #2 must be _can_ he just crank that handle twice each time and chomp out the whole 1/8" - thusly making the formuler for the cuts part of the equation dividered by 2, plus two full cranks to line it up again for the next pin. wtf - this question is so undeveloped that I must experiment it meself. Now.... where the hell do I get 3/8 -16 rod around here? 😮

[@MakeThings]

Hahaha, that one was aimed right for you. I’m glad you weren’t looking away when it came up! I was afraid you’d miss it!

[@bsmrice]

Ok i cant help but ask. i watched your video but all i could focus on is the cut you made on the 2x6 at min 103... perhaps your fence was not touching the board and im wrong, but did you cut not supporting the end between your fence?

[@TheGrantAlexander]

You lost me when you started using inches. Box joints are clearly metric only! hahahah just kidding, looks great Rob!

[@MakeThings]

😂👍

[@NinaTaristiana]

Wonderful..

[@Franco.Ar.]

Loved your idea! I read the tutorial on the 3/16 issue. You could probable use a 5/8 thread with 11tpi and a single crank would match almost exactly 3/16 of your blade. Maybe I am missing something, but I think it makes sense. Please correct me if I messed up.

[@MakeThings]

Haha, I’m not an engineer or a mathematician but 12/16ths is about 3/4’s, so you could be right. It would be interesting to try...it certainly doesn’t take much to make...ahh, but wait. You be in trouble with getting t-nuts. At least locally. The highest t-nut I can get here is 3/8ths. It would be interesting nonetheless. Thanks for taking interest!

[@Franco.Ar.]

@@MakeThings you could maybe use a regular nut and fit it in a shaped hole, or make a very tight hole in the wood and use epoxi to get it fixed. Please upload a video if you ever try.

[@MakeThings]

Hey, you’re right! Will do!

[@pecosimplu7070]

Verry clever 👏👏👏

[@MakeThings]

Thank you!

[@johnzarollin2749]

A safety issue; the 2 x 6 cutoff as seen at 1:04 can be very dangerous. Cutoffs can be propelled backwards into worker's body. There needs to be sufficient clearance to avoid potential binding between the blade and fence. Cutoffs can be thrown at high speeds always pushed or moved free of being caught by the blade. I've witnessed table saw cutoffs narrowly missing the operator and leaving large deformities in steel shop doors. Close calls are to be avoided.

[@MakeThings]

Then how do you recommend cutting them? If you notice, my body was not behind that part of the cut. Miter gauges would be useless if you couldn't crosscut with them.

[@johnzarollin2749]

@@MakeThings No personal criticism. Rather an observation that may circumvent potential injuries.. Miter gauges are fine for crosscutting if the they used correctly. I prefer a good chop saw or a sled like yours. From a safety standpoint, miter gauges should lead not follow the workpiece. Should any accidental binding occur the heavy metal miter gauge will still be setting in the table's track and not sticking in somebody. enjoy

[@SuperAdri212]

It would be nice to see a realization of a vertical panel saw

[@codyaimes4354]

🤣😂🤣 weekend project! Yes!

[@codyaimes4354]

Just built it. There was a few mods I made to simplify the assembly.

[@rwind656]

Ok, advanced add-on. After reading the Instructable I think I get it. I think. The pin moves to position the cut, and in clamping the box sides to the back 2x6 fence of the jig, it's possible not to register and clamp the box sides accurately? So the advanced panel you created is actually glued to the pin and gives you a clamping surface. Did I get that right? Seems the pin could be created differently to begin with, in version two? I have been looking at a lot of box joint jigs, and I think I like having a little finger sticking out to just move the little boards along instead of reclamping them.

[@IsaKocoglu]

.

[@MakeThings]

Hmm, I’m trying to understand what you’re saying here. First of all, you don’t clamp the stock you’re cutting to the 2x6. I used clamps a couple times. The first time I clamped 2 boards together to be cut in simultaneously, to save time. The second time I used clamps was on a piece of plywood that gets glued to the pin only. That plywood moves along free of the 2x6 altogether (except that it rubs against it). I used clamps to attach the two boards to it. If I were going to choose whether or not to use that piece I glued onto the pin, there’s no doubt I would use it over moving the wood along, just because it’s error free, especially narrow boards that have little surface area on the base.

[@rwind656]

My bad. Thanks for the reply. I watched through and even watched the advanced add-on section more than once and then I went over to Instructables and read that and came back, but somewhere in there I got confused about what you show and how to operate your jig. Just explaining my confusion. Another thing if I could suggest it in case others run astray the way I did, is that my better half and I watched just now and we agreed what you are calling your "pin" is really a "stop" to me... terminology. What we have been calling a pin around here when we made finger joints the old-fashioned way is a stationary fixed-size pin or finger of wood which matches the dado or kerf -- no relationship. You don't have that type of pin, your dado or finger spacing so to speak is determined by the number of cranks and the threads per inch on your rod. I'm straight now, lol.

[@MakeThings]

Check out the instructable with much more information and material list: www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Box-Joints-Adjustable-Tooth-Widths/

[@bennettasa7355]

Dont know if you guys gives a shit but if you are stoned like me atm you can stream all of the new series on KaldroStream. Been binge watching with my brother for the last weeks =)

[@ledgerdavid3435]

@Bennett Asa definitely, been using instaflixxer for years myself :D

[@melvinatlas8753]

@Bennett Asa yea, been using instaflixxer for years myself =)

[@samp38]

👍

[@jhsim]

Am in the process of making your wonderfully designed jig but have a couple of questions. 1. The jig and rod length are both 24" yet the rod is supposed to extend 1/2" out (for the crank). Won't this prevent a washer and nut being placed on the opposite stop block? 2. Does the third stop block get glued to the sides of the dado 3. Is the third stop block supposed to be flush with the end ?? 4. In the pictures, the jig only has two stop blocks and the one pin. Should there be 3 stop blocks or just two as shown in the pix? THANKS !!!

[@MakeThings]

Hey James! 1. No washer or nut is needed on that 3rd block, it's simply used to fill the space so that that end won't warp or twist. You could even fill the entire end past the middle nut and washer with square with circles in it. 2. Yes. 3. It doesn't matter, see #1. 4. I made 4 of those and I don't remember if I had a 3rd stop block in all of them or if I missed one. Thank you James for pointing that out, I'll update my instructable and mention you (if you want...tell me if you don't want me to use your name)!

[@robertsmith3518]

NIce job !

[@MakeThings]

Thanks!

[@StArFuRyZz]

I have tried so many box joint jigs and fail pretty much every time getting them to fit well. I'm definitely going to give this a try. One question: Does it matter if I'm using a full or thin kerf blade? Considering how this is made it doesn't look like it would matter.

[@MakeThings]

It does and doesn’t. I used a 3/32” kerf. That’s a 1/16th larger than a complete crank on a 3/8-16 threaded rod. So I use 2 cranks in all. Technically speaking, that will leave a 1/32” on either side of the tooth. To accommodate that I make my last crank a half crank. The question is, do you want a tight joint or a loose one? I prefer it to be stiff and don’t believe the glue will be completely removed so the 1/2 crank method works for me. Do me a favor, read my instructable and pay closer attention to the “operation” step. It goes into a bit better examples as to what I’m saying. Is this system flawless...not entirely. It’s a system you have to familiarize yourself with but I’m confident if you use a 3/32 blade and follow my instructable you will get the same results I’ve gotten. But also go into the project with a little patience because, just like any other jig or machine, you’ll need to learn how it works. Please make sure you message me if you do run into something not working. My goal is 100% success from my projects. Btw, I have made 4 of these crank mechanisms now and each works.

[@StArFuRyZz]

@@MakeThings Thanks! I've added this to the "things to do" list. First thing is to finish the two redwood slab tables I'm doing then I can give this jig a try since I want to make a box to store my dice.

[@stevegillis6306]

My cuts are larger than the none cuts and not totally consistent, how do I adjust?

[@madeinyorkshire2203]

This looks great! Does it only work for wood of a certain thickness? Thanks

[@MakeThings]

I’m guessing it should work for...every thickness? I guess if it’s too thin it would be difficult to glue. Thanks 😊

[@madeinyorkshire2203]

@@MakeThings I'll give it q try, thank you. Keep up the great content

[@MakeThings]

Thank you, that means a lot! Make sure you hit the instructable (it’s free): www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Box-Joints-Adjustable-Tooth-Widths/

[@madeinyorkshire2203]

@@MakeThings I will do that's great, thank you

[@MauricioGoncalves.]

Nice!

[@dennismacwilliams196]

WOW that's crazy

[@misteredetsamarquet2w2-min11]

If you need an excel sheet to calculate how much non cuts rounds you need to do according the cuts previously made, I can send this file to you on simple demand on MP.

[@chetleonard169]

Nice! Want!

[@lynnsanford9021]

❤

[@neila9251]

Great sled! Did you make or buy the shaft with the pre-drilled holes for the crank handle?

[@MakeThings]

They’re called brad t-nuts and they’re fairly cheap.

[@SuperAdri212]

The threaded rod and 16 mm ? Thank'you!!!

[@Jake-chickena]

Was easy enough to make, not accurate enough to be useful though. Thank you!

[@MakeThings]

Really? What problems did you have with it? I'd really like to know so that I can make it work for you. One common problem I've found..if you print the sheets off, some print software will try to enlarge the sheet, or shrink it by 5%. If you're not getting a perfect 1" by 1" square, it might be because of that. Seriously, drop me an email at [e-mail] . I'd love to know what happened. EDIT: Oops, I got the wrong project connected to you. I thought you were making the Glue Box. I will be the first to admit that there is a lot of skill that comes with building this. I don't blame this design, as it is far less complicated than some of the others (which I've paid for and built), but that box joints are not easy to master. No, they aren't dovetail joints, but there is still a near perfection you need to reach to get all those teeth to line up just right.

[@pedromolina4925]

buenas noches amigo usted no comparte el plano de esa pieza tan excelente

[@colinwilson210]

I'm confused (doesn't take much unfortunately) - when you're doing the second example with 10 cuts / 12 non-cuts, why are the numbers different (i.e. 10 cuts, 12 no-cuts) - won't that make the box fingers uneven ?

[@MakeThings]

It’s basically moving the blade over. It’s for the width of the blade. Since it interlocks, you have to eliminate the blades footprint. Thank you for watching!