Easy how to inlay METAL into WOOD. DIY metal pouring into wood. How to fill cracks with metal.

In this video I want to test how easy it can be to make metal inlays. The needed equipment is low budget and parktly self made.
First we modify and build the equipment. Second is the melting of the tin and the pouring into our test pieces.
We learn what limits this technique has and what way we can get the best results.
#metalpouring #metalinlays #metalandwood #metalinwood #metalcasting

[@sallyrichards8074]

If you want to make the metal "lock" in place, make an undercut in your wood. That will fill with the liquid metal and it will hold the cooled metal in place.

[@leahannwhite1111]

👍💓!

[@polerin]

Honestly one of the better videos on metal crack filling. Thanks for that!

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Hey, thanks for the feedback. You can watch my video of the history table or the "present for everyone". There you can see the molten metall in projects I made...

[@CLove511]

The tin is brilliant, everyone else uses aluminum and it burns the wood. I feel like I just unlocked an entirely new skill!

[@smac3662]

Love the way you recycled cans to start the process. This makes it possible for those who don't have the money to have the professional equipment.👍

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Thanks! Yes, very often there are ways to create a substitute for special tools. My guiding questions before I buy or create a tool are: "will I gain a new ability for the shop? Can I make an own, easy version of that tool? "

[@kthschsslr]

Even on the narrow inlay, one could drive screws and use a cut off wheel to cut the screw head off below the finished pour height. No need to drive from below.

[@timplumey-fl5xn]

I would suggest that on the piece that had the crack filled. Under pour slightly and then bring the wood down to the height of the medal.

[@michelle8190]

I think I have seen old wood floors that have had their cracks repaired with molten tin or lead. Thanks

[@marksage5722]

Funny shirt. Whenever an "engineer" is involved, I always say... "my high-school diploma is fixing the things your college degree messed up".

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

😁

[@geraldhorst1]

nice job. You could use a Dovetail Cutter so the Inlay might lose a bit but would never come out. Otherwise I would recommend Glue

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Yes, I thought that too, but I had no dovetail cutter at hand. Glue is a good Idea if screws are to big. During my history table build I used screws and that worked realy good... I had enough wood around to use screws. Thanks for the the tipps!

[@user-piggyrides]

What metal were you melting? Thanks

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Sorry for the late answer, just saw your question. I use tin for the inlays.

[@maryseidl8081]

Great idea! I'll try it. Thank you. Keep it up! 👍

[@__austrianoldboy_9861]

Love to see molten metal at any temperature!

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

If you love the molten Metal, you should take a look at my video "A table with history..."

[@michaelhyland9216]

Put a bevel on the inside of the piece so the metal is wider at the bottom than the top.

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Yes, a undercut, very good as well but the screws working as well very nice and they are easy to install. Works on my table with history since a year with no moving metal...

[@resitcevirgen7868]

Hello Heiko, Many thanks for very nice video :) I would like to cast aluminum on letter engraved OSB. Which thickness and depth do you recommend?

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Uh, I have no Idea when it comes to aluminium. Aluminium melts at more than 600°C, tin round 300°C. You have to test if it buns the wood or sets the OSB or the glue of the OSB on fire. I would start with a 10-15mm / 0,5" cut into the OSB. Be careful as the glue of the OSB might produce gas and kicks out the molten metal.

[@arwalt5310]

Moin Heiko - very fine idea! I also like to work with old or damaged wood and your work brings it to a new level. Three questions: where do you get the tin? And is it expensive? And do you think that the can is thick enough for melting the tin?

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Moin Armin. Thx 😁 The can is fine for melting. I used the same can for a much bigger project (video will come soon) and it is still in good shape. Please heat the can once beforehand melting the first time at the outdoors to burn the coating and leftovers. That will smoke a bit but only one time. The tin I got from a roofer. You can find it under "karosseriezinn" or "stangenlötzinn". You can also use tin nuggets. Hope that helps

[@michelecolasanzio1581]

Salve vorrei sapere lasciando lo stagno nel legno lo stagno non si ossida,e se c'è un trattamento per non fare ossidare lo stagno. Grazie

[@williman2654]

Hello very interesting. Which metal is it that you use? What is it’s melting temperature?

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

The metal I use ist lead-free tin. Melting temp is about 300°C. Temp just by guessing. My slodering iron starts to melt is at this point.

[@BenNawrath]

It may be harder to control, but maybe a small dovetail router bit would work to give the metal a lip to hold onto if a mechanical anchor isn’t practical?

[@BenNawrath]

Oops I didn’t see someone else suggested it too!

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Hi, thx for the tip. Yes, that is a good mechanical key too. I used the "metal in wood" method now for some more projects like my "history table" or the "present for everyone" and the screws never failed. All inlays are still in position, no loose parts but I think any mechanical key will do the trick.

[@30plantsperweek]

Wow… more more more

[@willmartin-]

Very nice

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Thx! Very easy too 😁

[@prestonian1066]

how do you manage to melt tin in a tin can without melting the tin can?

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

😁The tin can is not made from tin. It is a soft steel. But if you have doubts, you can take a stainless steel or aluminium cooking pot to melt it.

[@ArthurGoss-i5s]

What metal are you using ?

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

@@ArthurGoss-i5s using Tin. Be careful to use no mix tin with lead. There is pure tin available.

[@nonsibi1087]

I don't get what the point of it is...

[@oldsarj]

Me, either. I see the 'how'. I don't catch the 'why'.

[@GansShir]

very nice! thank you. I always thought this may burn the wood. I wonder if there is any risk or difference doing the same melting with copper?

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Hi. No burn marks with tin but copper needs 1000°C to melt. I think you will burn the wood. There are wood forms to form molten glas (over 1000°C) but this wood is full of water. But if you try it, let me know about the results...

[@billgiffin987]

U mightr try under cutting ur pour hole at the bottom & that will anchor ur metal.

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

Yes, that would be possible as well, but I found the scews easier. If the Material is not thick enough, the under cutting might be the only option. Good to have that idea in the toolbox as well. Thx

[@Hellsong89]

Its tin.. really soft metal that durability is questionable at best of times.

[@heikoofalltrades2267]

It worked for tableware in the last century, not for machines. I made mettal inlays in a table and that works without problems. Every material has its applications 😁

[@halthammerzeit]

​@@heikoofalltrades2267 I did some pourings on old oak and left it for year without finishing. To my surprise it looks like 1st day. Now I'm trying with azobe wood, super hard and dark, contrast looks crazy. It's underappreciated method.