Easy Parallel Stacking for Massive Peak Power

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A dual sol-ark 12k System. Fully off-grid. Part 1 of 3
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[@HabitualButtonPusher]

You guys have the cleanest setups ever. The second I hit the lottery You guys are on my list to call!

[@DavidSmith-dm8ew]

not to sound like an ass but you literaly would have to win the lottery or put yourself in debt for the next 20 years to pay off the setup. The average working class man can barely keep his head above water.

[@alvinchung9361]

SO, I GUESS YOU'RE NEVER CALL?

[@clintg3435]

@@DavidSmith-dm8ew Not to sound like an ass but most people settle for their jobs and are stuck in a rut. Best thing you can do with no formal education is construction. I'm a high school drop-out but not an idiot just make some bad life choices with friends and was too cool for school. I quit my 18$/hr job in 2006 and went on to work in refineries atarting out at 26$/hr and have worked myself into 55$-60$/hr depending on the plant. You can do it. I just bought 40kw of solar panels and 3 solark 12kw and a ready rack. Wish me luck. Don't settle for what you have, work for what you want and don't be a slave to debt. I've made over 100K$/yr (well over sometime 200K$/yr) and still drive a 2005 F350 with 310K miles.

[@mountainman4410]

Holy hell man! That is an amazing set up! Love the attention to detail. Great project, as always from you.

[@engineer775]

Thank you sir!

[@fredlindner9356]

Hi installed 2 stacked sol arks with 12k of panels in Arkansas. Fixing to add 700ah nickel iron battery bank. Do you have any thoughts on nickel iron?

[@bootangy]

@@fredlindner9356 you off grid completley?

[@cornpop7805]

The inspectors I know won't allow a conduit into an enclosure, without an approved connector - complete with locknut and bushing. Here's how a bulkhead plate would allow proper fittings to be used between the back to back troughs. Say you're using 1-1/4" conduit: hole saw the exterior trough to whatever size would allow for clearance of the 1-1/4" fitting, let's say it's a 2"TS. Continue with the 2"TS hole saw through the interior sheeting, but not through the interior trough (although the pilot bit should penetrate the trough). Then use 1-1/2"TS hole saw through the interior trough. Now build up the conduit and fittings, the right length to go between the troughs, let's say PVC with male adapters on each side, all glued up. Shove the assembly through the hole, into the interior trough. Add lock nut and plastic bushing. On the exterior trough, make a square bulkhead plate that's big enough to cover the 2"TS hole. The plate should have 1/4 clearance holes in each corner. Hole saw the center of the plate to 1-1/2"TS. Deburr and paint the plate electrical gray. Mount the plate, allowing the male adapter to protrude. Add lock nut and bushing. I ususally keep various sizes of 16ga blanks laying around that I had a fab shop laser cut. I had them all painted electrical gray. I do a lot of automation work, where bulkhead plates are frequently used to pass cables with connectors through enclosures. You can use a blank cover, but my fabricated covers look far more presentable.

[@practicalpreppers7798]

That is a great tip and I will do it next time. Thank you! What is you glued in a PVC box adapter. Are they not acceptable? So do you self tapper the 16 ga plate to the exterior trough?

[@cornpop7805]

@@practicalpreppers7798 I think what I'm calling a male adapter, is what you are calling a box adapter. So, yes it could be PVC with box adapters on both ends. As far a screws go, self tappers should work, but don't use really long ones. Long ones can bind against the wood behind the trough, as the screw is screwing into the metal. Better to drill small pilot holes and use really short sheet metal screws that are not self tappers.

[@guytech7310]

@@practicalpreppers7798 Just use Threaded-Rigid to connect the outside wireway into the inside wireway. You can buy it at lowes or homedepot. Its what I used to to attach the enclosures to the wireway so you dont have to juggle around with the EMT connectors. I imagine getting all those short EMT connections between the wireway and the enclosures is a major PITB! -Pain in the Butt :)

[@danielschmidt2186]

When I have a preexisting box mounted that i want to nipple into, I use a larger hole saw that allows the lock ring to pass through. The holesaw goes through the wall from behind the enclosure and the pilot hole will penetrate the back of the enclosure. Then you switch hole saws to one for the size conduit threads you are using. That pilot hole is now in the center of the hole that is through the wall material so the hole in the metal using the same pilot hole is in the center. I'm in Chicagoland o everything is conduit. Threaded nipples require the smallest holes but a connector can be embedded in the wall to. I've seen guys cut the set screws off connectors to get them into a smaller hole. If you use a compression connector just gotta be sure you tighten it real good before you stick it in the hole. You can size up a stub of pipe and put connectors on both ends to make your own nipple or use a threaded end of a rigid or imc pipe and a connector on the other end...

[@ashishagrawal1551]

Excellent Job. Wish someone in India could do such nice clean and Precise Work. Absolutely impressive. Learning million things from You here in India and trying to duplicate by showing to our Staff..

[@OsageGOP]

Been waiting for this video, I’m about to stack 2 12k’s myself with 60 panels, maybe more in the future

[@MrJhonnyJackson]

Y not just 1 25kw?

[@awbean5254]

ENGINEER 775 VERY NEAT & ORGANIZED WIRING IN THE RACEWAY. THANKS FOR RAPID SHUTDOWN INSTALLATION.

[@jarredtheunissen5890]

Been Doing solar for years .. best way to do it .. well done nice to see good work going out for solar

[@mikelinniii1186]

Nice set up indeed!Incredibly methodical work!

[@gabrielmaglaqui3198]

Interesting railing work there

[@samsonite8017]

I love the clean work you guys do, especially with the trough setups, and bypass switches on all installs, looks great. Me personally, I don't really like the idea of having a 'rapid shutdown' right on the outside of the house where any stranger can push it and kill your power to everything. I wonder if you could automate rapid shutdown into a fire detection system that would trip with your fire alarm. I wouldn't want any switches on the outside of the house unless they were secured...

[@clintg3435]

I'm pretty sure the rapid shutdown would not be compliant behind lock and key. Just a guess and based off nothing but my mind.

[@jamessebastian9822]

You and your guys do some of the most impressive work I have ever seen. Your knowledge and always bettering your installs are very impressive.

[@LSandLM]

Some white latex primer and a couple of layers of paint under that stuff before you mount it can save a lot of headache later.

[@gatorman5011]

Awesome, as usual. Stay safe guys. Bless y'all.

[@Malibuair]

Looks great. I have to nudge a little bit. There is $100+ in Myers hubs on the exterior gutter but the gutter it's not rated NEMA 3r?

[@1sgtgrassman]

As I said on scotch I LEARN more from your videos than I ever got from my papa and he always had me on edge to LEARN more and l cant wait for your your next project or helpful hints. Thanks Semper Fi

[@mikeriverajr4447]

why is there a critical load panel when there is 17 kw of solar and 24kw of inverter power??? , these inverters should easily power the entire main panel during a "critical" situation. . . is it some type of code requirement

[@wayneg1212]

That owner sunk some money into that system!

[@w1kz]

Hey there, just wondering what the brand/model of the wiring trough you use. Thanks a lot.

[@HolmesProspecting]

Same would like to know.

[@rikdehaas6398]

Very VERY nice and neat system! Thanks for sharing.

[@shawnhayes4949]

Amazing system and great craftsmanship!! After reading through the comments, I'm sure there's a bigger plan here? You don't spend that kind of $$$ on that sort of system without a plan, of course plans change.

[@wjf213]

Looks great. Do the Solarks start the gen set up, then can you program the Solark to wait "X" amount of time, BEFORE applying a load to a cold diesel engine....AND THEN, once the gen set is no longer needed, it allows the gen set to run and cool down for "X" amount of minutes before shutting down the engine for good? I had a Trace SW5548 power panel back in the 90's that worked like that. I program it to allow the diesel to run for 10 minutes at an idle to warm up, and then it excited the alternator, and when done, it disconnected the alternator and let the engine run for 5 minutes at an idle to cool down. In northern Wisconsin in the winter time, applying a load to a cold engine is just going to really shorten the life of a diesel engine....ANY engine for that matter. I liked that Trace inverter, because it had 3 or 4 auxiliary relays that you could use for anything you wanted and in the menu, set each one up anyway you wanted. One relay I had programmed to kick in a block heater and and a heater under the oil pan, on the diesel and run for 60 minutes to warm up the engine oil and coolant before starting the engine. I don't remember EXACTLY how it worked, but I think it was programmed to kick in the heaters once the battery bank dropped to a certain level and the 60 minute timer began. Another one I think was set to exercise the gen set for one hour every 30 days too, but I can't remember....this was 25 or 26 years ago maybe. I know a friend of mine who had the same set up. He had one programmed to kick in if his batteries were charged and he was still producing solar power, and it ran a well pump and pumped water into his huge holding tank for drinking water for him and his animals, but if the level got below a certain point, it had a float that kick the pump in no matter what was going on with the solar and batteries. Anyway, keep up the great work.

[@practicalpreppers7798]

Yes, the Solark starts the genset based on how you program the SOC start ( state of charge of the battery) it then shuts off when the battery reaches 95% . THe relays in the solark take enough time to allow the genny to warm up before connecting and charging. However on the shutdown it is turned off but odds are the load has already been satisfied by the time the battery reaches 95% SOC.

[@guytech7310]

FWIW: if you want a fully custom control for your genset, then consider getting a PLC that you can program to do what you need. You could program to monitor system load so that if your pulling a high load, it would start the GenSet even if they batteries are nearly fully charged. You can also use a PLC with contactors to shutdown none essential circuits, or load shed if your overall load is too high. Or turn on some circuits when the generator is running (ie hot water heater elements)

[@barnlover6602]

Nice workmanship, you guys are so good. Except, your fall protection while working on the roof! I don’t see any? Everyone wants to go home at the end of the day!

[@Jonzuber]

Can you make that template drawing available to your faithful viewers? I’ve also been directing some of my friends to your website who are planning on doing solar on their custom houses later this year.

[@geofferyromany4634]

I did my homework and realize that I was being unreasonable with all my newbie questions. It is an ac combiner box. I downloaded the sol-arc 12 Outdoor type manual and it explained a lot. So I apologize. I am enjoying many of your videos. Keep it up. This morning I saw on the news of the heatwave in California and Oregon and the melting of cables. Have you any feedback from homeowners as to the solar units installed and how they are operating? It would be helpful to do a video on the effect of the heatwave on rooftop solar setups and how to upgrade to existing solar system for future heatwaves.

[@GeraldPUR]

Exellent video. Clean work. Dual Sol-Ark. I want to combine that inverter with KilaVolts HLX 3600 (8 of them).

[@gosolxsolar]

Its that 6"x6" trough? I have some 4x4 ordered, but I'm not sure the Sol Ark will connect to the 4x4 without making bends. What do you think about 4×4 trough?

[@mycool8980]

Are the panels ceramic coated? Tough to get on the roof n clean them.

[@carlcook6646]

*Rev. Cec I really like that system. Can I be next?

[@FORTRAN4ever]

Nice overview of the project but a lot of details missing though.

[@jeffmoore2351]

Howdy from Australia. Thank you for your informative videos. I am considering having a tracking solar array. My thoughts are one axis (east to west geared induction motorised.)( North to south) staged positions relative to elevation depending on time of year. Is their anything on the market like that in the US as I having trouble locating any supplier over here. Thank you. Stay safe Aussie Jeff

[@practicalpreppers7798]

There is but how would we get it to you?

[@kevinroberts781]

If any of your workers don't want to work due to covid-19 I'll gladly take their place! Solar is my hobby and passion!

[@rotattor]

This might be a stupid question but Are there no safety covers for those emergency stops ? Put a red button in front of a ten year old and you're looking for problems LOL !

[@practicalpreppers7798]

Yeah, I do not like it either. However I have had a similar button on my system now for 4 years. I have never had an issue.

[@davidparker4501]

That's why it was up high on the wall...

[@Starkchris]

Can one 12k solark use or start a 20kw generator? Thanks

[@sebastianlehmann3698]

Can you share the model/brand of the batteries? Nice job guys

[@CWBKC]

Starting my first DIY system this weekend using Q-Cell. With that said, What mounting base are you using to mount your home run conduit? Awesome work.

[@Yg-te4ig]

Hi there. Would it be a possible to do a walk around of the building to know /see what can you run or use in the house with the following system for your next video

[@Spottedlove]

Why 6 disconnects? 3 per sol-ark. I thought they were for the PV strings and the sol-arks only accept 2 MPPT strings each? What am I missing? Also with the quick disconnect are the other disconnects needed? What is not shown is the wiring diagram it would be nice to see how all the hardware is wired.

[@geofferyromany4634]

I hope that as a newbie that I didn't ask too many newbie questions. If there is only one question that you can answer from your busy schedule then can you tell me the type of panel for the grid combiner panel and the use of the grid combiner box?

[@gosolxsolar]

Nice. Why so much space between the components inside the pole barn? Can't the various Panelboard and Sol Arks go closer together?

[@Ted_E_Bear]

Great job !!

[@TriElectric]

Love it, quick question? sure ground wires be attached to the metal ground bus? Will wait to see the final installation, Grat job!

[@davidmicheletti6292]

I really love how you install these systems but the over all PV systems is far too complex. I need a plug and play unit that would not need a engineering degree to operate or service if something ever went wrong.

[@engineer775]

But a PV system is well worth the lack of having to deal with a generator and fuel and maintenance etc. Most people do not need a stacked system and if you have a single inverter it's a lot simpler. However if you need power this baby will deliver 36 kilowatts instantaneously.

[@horacerumpole6912]

Deutsches Institut für Normung, ja goot!

[@TheBurnsStuff]

Scott, I have a question about ground mounts. I just happen to catch this video and this idea popped into my brain space. You and Johnny can give your input on this idea. He and I have been in talks about a ground mounts and my site has less than ideal conditions for typical ground systems (ledge, rock, more rock, some stuff imposing as dirt, earth biscuts and trees lol). I took my mini and dug test holes. Some were very easy to dig about 4 feet down while a couple other spots were just solid rock at 8 inches. Johnny and I talked about ballasted mounts. I don't know how I feel about them. They seem bulky, quite ugly and I see potential for them to be a problem with frost (I'm in NE PA). What about building small solar arrays and installing them on single post mounts, like those used in tracking systems? I feel this would give me more flexibility in placement and size. I know with typical ground mounts that use a single post buried in earth need to be aligned, level square and true to each other. My terrain isn't super flat, has a soft slope, but the overburden is my concern with these. I also want to start small with the system and grow it as it becomes more financially accessible. I have a magnum inverter and charger working off 6 100w panels at the moment. I have no utilities on site as of yet and the power company is giving me a hard time so I'm about to say **** off. I'm just looking for some insight from you guys since you do this for a living. I don't know how often you run into the type of earth I have. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thank you for your time!

[@guytech7310]

If you got solid rock you might be able to use masonry fasteners to secure a post to the ledge. You might need to pour a small concrete block on top of the rock to provide a flat surfaces for the post ( I am presuming the ledge is uneven & sloped). Then drill holes into the block & ledge using a hammer drill and fasten the post using simpson titen bolts. For steel posts you can weld on a bottom flange. I believe for wooden posts you can by pre-made bottom flanges. I would recommend to work with the power company to get grid service. It will be cheaper way to go unless you have deep pockets for panels, genset and lots of gas money for the genset (specially if you not in a sunny location, or your property isn't in the best location for sun). You basically be running that genset 8 to 10 hours a day during home construction as you & your crew will be running power tools all day. Not fun filling up the GenSet 2 or more times per day and making frequent runs to fill up a bunch of 5 gallon fuel cans. FWIW: It took me about 4 months to get the power company to extend service to my home site. Issue is that power companies are having trouble finding workers (few young men are not interested in, or have health\drug issues. The older guys are slowing retiring). Just be nice, & patient. They work with you if you give them a chance. FYI: While I do have grid service I also do have a SolArk installed, just no panels (yet - still working on home construction).

[@danielschmidt2186]

www.rbisolar.com/solutions/ground-mount-solar/ RBI has a ground mount ballasted system. Basically any ballasted system could be ground mounted if you didn't have issues with landscaping causing shade on some low profile mods. Maybe putting down some type of plant barrier and then a ballasted system on top would work for you. Ecolibrium, panelclaw, and unirack all have good roof ballasted options that would work on flat ground

[@geofferyromany4634]

Nice set up. a few questions if you don't mind. First did you do positive or negative grounding on the solar panels? Did the roof racks have provisions for grounding to the panels? I understand some systems allow for the grounding wire to be run with the cables to the disconnect boxes. You used iron pipes to run the cables from the solar arrays, did these pipes and all the iron guttering system had to be grounded also? What size wires were used from the panels to the gutter system? What size panels (voc Isc ) and how many strings ex. 12 in series and then in parallel? Thanks

[@raptormatt21]

Impressive work as usual 👌! Wish we could get those GE transfer switches in Canada.

[@guytech7310]

Presuming they don't violate the Canada electric code, you can buy them from Zoro.com. They ship them to you.

[@knightice69]

I’m confused. Will the service panel for the house be outside of the main house since you said it has not been built yet? How will power get to the finished house? I’m curious because I want to move my service panel and inverters to an out building about 100 feet away from my house. Thanks! Great instal and video!

[@geofferyromany4634]

What is the name of the distribution utility box? Thanks

[@teejayshelton8054]

what are those rail? That is a great way to not have a leak attaching only on the ridges.

[@rickhunter5226]

Heard that tigo breaks a lot, waiting for a customer review from you later, nice job BTW.

[@engineer775]

I sure hope not but I did make sure that each string is isolated so it'll be easy to find any future problems.

[@rickhunter5226]

@@engineer775 wish you the best mate

[@allenbarrow4904]

@Engineer 775, love your setup and explanation on this video. But l was wondering why no battery backup storage included?? I also like 3 - way switch box to change up power sources when needed. Saw l need do that for my next home in the near future. Please include a basic wiring diagram too, unless you are worried about property theft. Thank you again for the video detailing how to layout a solar panel installation.

[@martydiggs1003]

With this system. Can you do a whole house 200 amps of power not on roof but on ground ? How much for this sistem

[@horscategorie]

Same question - I have 400A service split into 2 200A panels. Would love to back up everything, but 200A would be fine.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

Too many variables. If you consume 1200-1400 kWh of power per month in the middle-southern half of the USA, you’d be close. DIY with some LFP batteries for $50K.

[@martydiggs1003]

@@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity TOO MUCH $$$ HAVE TO DO THE TOTAL AMPS. 40A. HEATING ,20 AMPS WATER PUMP, 40A.COOKING,20AMP WASHER,30AMP DRYER

[@williamjohnston3770]

Great job Scott, as usual. Thanks for the tips on the Terminal Blocks. I'm curious how much did the Tigo's add to the job, time and expense wise if you're ok sharing that?

[@practicalpreppers7798]

2000.00 in materials. a few hours of labor for adding to the panels, installing the transmitters and external buttons and wires.

[@SolarTechFL]

Hey dude those dc disconnects are redundant and not needed just use the RS switches and your good to go.

[@TRYtoHELPyou]

Those 12ks are nice

[@acornhillfarms6977]

Scott, question on the Dual Sol-Arks and breaker sizing? Correct Breaker Size for Grid going to sol-arks? 50A or 60 A breaker? On the Critical Loads Panel back feeding from Sol-Arks? 50A or 60A breaker? I believe each solark will allow 63Amp of pass through on grid? So that is why I was thinking of needing a 60 Amp breaker size at the critical loads panel. Thanks for your help!

[@engineer775]

60amp.

[@zeigfried007]

Great work. I'm about to install a system with two Solark 12 kW inverters. I do have a question regarding the transfer switch. You said it transfers between Solark and Grid. Is that necessary? Would love to talk to you if can spare a moment.

[@ArthursHD]

I would say that a rapid shutdown is an overkill.

[@imacrazyguy5831]

Not really. You can't see anything up top and not any time to test everything if something bad happens (lightning strike, maybe). Run up, tap the shut off and disconnect everything to allow safe diagnostics.

[@shawnhayes4949]

I'm betting it was some sort of electrical code maybe?

[@Adirondacks4me]

Hmmm...where is the siding, they forgot the siding before all the electrical was mounted outside?

[@engineer775]

Yes I asked the customer several times about siding this before we built the system but he said go for it.

[@dhyde9207]

@@engineer775 ... I would have, at the very least, painted that bare wood. Seems like some poor planning on the owners' part.

[@shawnhayes4949]

I've seen boxes installed and siding installed around them. Looks clean when done to me, I'm sure this will be addressed, if you have something like this, I'm sure there's a plan...

[@mikejf4377]

So when you loose power you loose solar, why can’t they develop a automatic switch to disconnect the solar away from grid? I liked the video.

[@jamiemarsden2557]

there is a automatic switch to disconnect, but depends where you live and if its regulated to be used, we have there here in australia

[@guytech7310]

Not an issue with Solar Ark, They work like a UPS system, with a Grid input and an load output. If the Grid goes down they switch to battery. Perhaps if you use the Grid-Export (sell power back to the grid) you might have an issue, but that function can be disabled. With my setup, if I loose power, the SolarArk switches over to battery power. When the power returns, it switches back to grid power and recharges the batteries.

[@mikejf4377]

Jamie Marsden Jacksonville FL.

[@mikejf4377]

Guy Tech that’s what I want for my system.

[@mikejf4377]

Is the tygo a micro converter? Can you use different brands with Solar Ark. My main circuit breaker is a 200A unit.

[@geofferyromany4634]

I looked at the end of the video and counted 51 panels in 3 rows of 17 each. assuming 17.5 kwh it means about 340watts solar panels. This is just a guess. What is the total voc and Isc of each of the sets of solar strings?

[@Commsprepper]

very nice!

[@benjones8977]

On those emergency shut downs, how do you keep the inverter chargers from burning up from the solar panels?

[@unionse7en]

NEC 2020 690.31B ... don't we need to have a barrier between the PV DC and the Inverter AC output & rest of the conductors in the trough?

[@benssolarandbattery]

Is the generator input up and running on the 12k now? Last one I did I had to use a transfer switch on the grid input to switch between grid and gen. Beautiful install!!

[@practicalpreppers7798]

Yes, 2-wire gent start based on Battery SOC.

[@thedevmachine]

Did you divide the panel to 6 or 3 parallel groups?

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

It has to be 8 or 9 per string with six strings.

[@mysolaraddiction]

Would like to know what PDB he’s using in the video I’m doing a similar setup

[@MrHoptop]

Did you have any problem with cross-talk from the different rapid shut down live signals?

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

I’m installing 6 strings of 8 (48) 430w q cells, ground mounted. Dual 12K. Can I use two (one for each inverter) 16a 6p IMO’s instead of six like you have here? They are rated 16 a PER POLE.

[@TimPutnamAutoIncome]

I notice everything exterior is mounted on plywood. Is that the finished exterior or is there going to be siding? That plywood only has about 5 years before it disintegrates.

[@shawnhayes4949]

True, but I'm sure if they can afford that set-up, there's a bigger plan and all will be fixed or corrected before its covered. I've seen meter boxes/panels installed before siding went up.

[@owenbanks3675]

Please tell us how much for parts & labor?

[@NoelBarlau]

Yowza. What size and chemistry of battery stack will they be connecting to this monster?

[@SolarTechFL]

Nec No more than 6 disconnects per service

[@practicalpreppers7798]

Is that true? I hear 4 per system.

[@SolarTechFL]

Yes

[@jodyz3535]

Very nice looking at putting in a system like this what is a rough total cost panel batteries everything thank you

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

DIY= $50K. You can double that for good measure if hiring it out.

[@fredlindner9356]

IMO HAS 8 POSITION SWITCHES RATED FOR 60 AMPS DC. IVE GOT ONE.

[@jkrupa1997]

I know it was probably mentioned somewhere but how many watts do you have going into each disco??

[@Madactionmedia]

Why use an interior wireway/gutter outside?

[@tntstinomite]

wow panels do you install

[@Tiersmoke92555]

Question: Do needo install rapid shut down on my 48v offgrid system?

[@spencertaylor30]

Scott! If you build my micro hydro invention for a video I will fund it ! Contact me!

[@nyghtmyst5118]

Hey do you know any converter /inverter that will take an emp other than solark

[@jarroddomingos]

I sent in a consultation form a couple of weeks ago? I followed that up with an email but I have heard from you? I do realize you are probably buried with everything going on. Please advise if you got my communication.

[@practicalpreppers7798]

Jarrod, yes sir . Buried, but the squeaky wheel gets the grease! We will work on a quote today and if you get some time please call me today as I am working at home today.

[@garyjerniganjr]

What does a setup like that cost? Holy cow

[@bradspaugh9827]

What brand are those combiner panels?

[@maryfrederickson9400]

Beautiful setup on a really ugly wall. Why was the wall not finished or protected?

[@MrGrandwazzoo45]

Did everyone see Micheal Moore's new movie defending Whaling ship companies, or was it the blubber? Anyway, 775 Rocks! proving energy independence is feasible and growing. And sane investment's grow goodness!!!

[@troystutsman1400]

MrGrandwazzoo45 I’ve always said that the best part of Moore ran down the inside of his mamas thighs...!

[@johnhoward7298]

JUST HOW MUCH DID T H A T SYSTEM COST ????? . ?? I'LL never live long enough to pay for one like it !!!!!!!!!! BUT I WANT ONE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'M probably going to build a retirement cabin on a 5A property I own . It'll by NECESSITY , rather than desire , HAVE to be solar . I don't want the solar to cost MORE than the cabin !$!$!$

[@terrya6486]

No paint on the wall first?

[@donna30044]

9:44 -- Why fuses and not breakers?

[@deanconstantine4866]

Total price?????

[@DentTastic]

what size wire trunk are you using ?

[@offgridwanabe]

Sure a lot of proprietary parts for special work I bet an electrician would be stumped on that job

[@ptzish]

I'm so jealous.

[@jacquelineheaton8463]

10 inch deep wire trough? Good place to get wire trough??? They seem over priced $$$$$$$$

[@dadavdavid]

👍

[@dannyhowell3171]

Yeah right for rich people

[@davidthompson04]

that setup cost more than my house

[@Zorlig]

Did we see the batteries?

[@engineer775]

You will see them in part two but there's only four PCC 230 solar batteries which is too small but we'll get this customer by while they build their house.

[@dylanc9275]

Why is this not on my house

[@richardedwardpay]

Metal ladders?

[@practicalpreppers7798]

?