EASY SOLAR PANEL INSTALLATION FOR YACHTS & R/V'S

[@jimwattson1720]

From an electrician, you did a good job explaining. Hadn't realized it was that simple, thanks.

[@edrussell7960]

Finally, someone put it in plain English. Thank you. You guys do a great job. And off subject a bit, love your " rants" they are informative and give me opposing viewpoints on somethings. Peace guys.

[@johnbarrett1305]

Hey guys. That was one of the best breakdowns of how solar works and how the controllers work that I've run upon yet. Great job!

[@seanbouterie7635]

I've been following you for about 1/2 year, just enjoying the vids and gathering info. I'm looking to buy a boat in the next 3 years, so thank you for all you both do. Hope to see you out on the water when I get to that point! Have an awesome day!

[@jamesthompson9784]

Very well done. Simple, yet enough info to understand.

[@nikolaucznaum4312]

Excellent commentary and instruction!!….

[@paulororke6545]

Cheers mate, I love the Tuesday tech night even though I'm watching on thursday. We've all got systems that we're either fixing, upgrading or replacing and this one is perfect timing as im in the middle of planning a 200 watt system and new batteries, keep em coming and good luck from Rhode Island.

[@wohart0228]

very educational without getting too technical. Thank you!

[@Pippinstravels]

One of the best solar videos I have seen. My three panels (200w) not so great in not so sunny Scotland but greatly offset the need to run the engine or shore power.

[@oldtimergoalie1]

Thanks Nick for helping to explain this in simpler terms. It’s definitely a future endeavor on our sailboat. Always great videos!

[@peterwhalley5236]

Hello Nick, Very much enjoy watching what you share. Good to see the team back together. I watched your solar panel update with great interest. Having the real world perspective of a technically astute user is very helpful. When thinking about MPPT charging, I find it helpful to remember that the objective is power in the sense of ability to do work. In this case extract maximum work potential from panels and put it into the batteries (and other loads) most effectively. Important to keep in mind is that there is a minimum voltage and power needed by the controller to begin to work. This can vary but a certain minimum voltage coming from the panel is the first thing that the controller must see before it can draw and then, as it begins to draw (current begins to flow) the voltage will sag. This is where the magic happens. The charger will adjust the load on the panels to maximize the power drawn from them - but only down to that lower voltage and current limit. The key is that a series string of panels will cross that voltage threshold more quickly in weak light to arrive at the level that the charger can begin to use. Result: The panel starts producing usable power earlier and maintains it later every day! During the middle of the day there isn't much difference between series and parallel in terms of output (shading aside). If your controller will let you, have a look at your panel production from the time of day perspective. Another thing to keep in mind when installing is that even though you can get by with smaller core wire when voltage is higher, you will still benefit a little by reducing the loss in the wire and you can add panels later in parallel even if you are at the top voltage your MPPT charger can support. Limiting the work to topside only and not having to deal with getting heavier wire below to controller is a substantial savings in time and effort. It is also worth mentioning that with the higher voltages your vigilance should increase. When dealing with potentials past about 40V you need to be extra careful. That higher voltage can push past barriers that lower voltages wont… I noticed that you used white Nylon or Delrin fasteners. Could you not find black? I am thinking of UV degradation. You don’t have much redundancy with this method and if they degrade you could loose them all at one go! Lastly, do you have the same trouble with port and starbord as you do with right and left? Just kidding of course! 2:13 into video you will see what I mean;-)) Keep up the good work and we'll be watching. Peter

[@tonycampbell1178]

Love the down to earth, no bullshit explanations. Please keep stuff like this coming guys!! Thank you both.

[@johnpignatelliiii7572]

Great method of breaking down series vs parallel. Using simple explanations can help the novice. I think that's what you're after in these vlogs. Job well done.

[@calmarchnnl]

Great video. I watched this passively. will be rewatching with a notebook.

[@bigdmofatski]

I watch your channel, and have enjoyed it. Living vicarious thru you two. But, today our paths crossed as i got a rv, and was considering solar panels to keep the battery bank topped off. Thanks for the info! Cheers.

[@sideswipper]

i knew i would like tech tuesday and you didn't disappoint. thanks Nick.

[@RedemptionReady]

Nick, on my old boats Bimini we put 1/2 or 3/8" rubber hose in a sleeve made from sunbrella and sewed them to the bimini under the panels. It worked well. The attachment point we did different though. I like your idea. We stitched velcro to the long side of the bimini and self stick to the panels. After a season it peeled off the panel (heat I bet). But I also tied the panels together then to the bimini struts as well (hurricane and theft prevention). Also I did Series + Parallel. Series on the port/star and then Paralleled them together. I figured the boom or mast can't cast a shadow across the boat. New boat has a split stay. But I never had issues with stays. Those 100w panels have a shiny surface. PROTECT THEM WITH SOME FORM OF UV coating once a month! I didnt and my first set yellowed in 4 months. Still worked but were yellow Flitz restored the clarity - sorta. I think we used some marine UV protection spray after that... Armor all equivalent but at 10x the price.

[@BastienKoert]

Not sweary enough, nick. A great explanation of the process and reasoning.

[@csranch2000]

Loved it nick! I am having new Bimini made for our boat and will show this video to the fabricator to add your connectors for the solar panels. Thanks for the explanation of the series vs parallel debate. Can't wait til the next one.

[@michaeldenicola6725]

Thank you so much cause you answered the question I have had for so long. series or parallel. you made it simple and so easy to understand. this was one great video. how you mounted them was a very clever way. it also looks so much nicer. Nick thanks.

[@svvalor9826]

Hey Guys. This video was perfect timing for me. Was in the process of penning out a solar system for my boat. The bar graph which showed the differentiation between parallel and series was great. That was actually the sticking point in my schematic. Glad to see you guys back on a reg basis. Fair winds.

[@dazthesailor6363]

Great vid especially as it’s my next project . Only thing that was pointed out to me is that if you run them in two banks with 2 chargers you cover yourself if there is a breakdown on one side and continue charging , thanks Nick

[@campingboy9213]

Well done Nick. And the fades between categories has been stepped up 2 notches. Not only just doing the install but having an example .. gold star on this project. As always, thanks for all the work you both put into our 15 minutes of pleasure each week. cheers

[@Kemxt]

Oohh fancy title production! I feel I am watching an instructional video from the mid 2000's except the host is not boring and monotone. Great simple explanations and charts! Keep it up

[@cruisingholiday4996]

Love you both. I watch your videos as soon as I see them pop up. Always entertaining, informative and well done. Bravo, keep them coming.

[@dragonflysdiscoveries7567]

Man, so easily explained, I have book marked this for later. Thanks kids

[@MsStrong30]

Wonderful video, thanks! I just bought my first boat, just a little 22 footer on a lake, but I'm planning on installing a small solar panel to keep the battery charged. Can't wait to get started!

[@ianb4801]

Also noticed some cute semi-flexible panels that have zips built into each edge. Sew the "other half" onto the bimini, along with a velcro cover....

[@devmich99]

Series vs Parallel really depends. Each of them has its drawback. When you connect in Series and only a single cell (not speaking of a panel) gets shaded, the whole system gets affected with the result of less output. Drop your hand on a cell and look at your power meter to see the effect. On a R/V theres's less to no shade, so Series may work much better with the advantage of less cabling and smaller cable diameter. On a Sailboat there's plenty of shade around and Series usually is not the first choice. When a cell in a Parallel connection gets shaded, then only the specific panel becomes affected with all the other panels working at full throttle. There is only one disadvantage with Parallel: more and thicker cables. If you have Radar or Windgenerator mounted on your stern, go for Parallel or make sure there's no shades!

[@devmich99]

Not that I don't trust your measurements. But take in mind that they were done over days where conditions could have been different. I did the same like you and came to the complete opposite result. But I measured them at the same time. 2 in series and another 2 in parallel, two mppt controllers. Parallel won when I put my hand over a single cell. Anyway, if it works for you, all good :)

[@devmich99]

Let's see how it works out when you're at sailing or at anchorage. As said, it could work when there's no shading. Most of the roofs here in Germany covered with solar panels are connected in series. But that makes sense for all the reason I said above. If the houses were moving, they most probably would connect them in parallel. Fair Winds and thanks for all your videos. Stefanie

[@peterlosangelos4108]

Sailing Yacht Ruby Rose Nice episode. Loss over the electrine line is I*I*R, so running in parallel makes current 4 times higher and loss in the lines 16 times higher, thats probably explains most of the 30%. For the same reason power(=V*I) is transported over the grid at high voltage, so to reduce current, which gives quadratically less loss in the grid.

[@ianb4801]

Sailing Taku Moe Saw an interesting web site with lots of videos. I think the company is Canadian and is called Pacific Yacht Systems. Interesting way they suggest for parallel is to wire a seperate MMPT for each panel and join them at the output side just prior to the battery bank. It might make parallel work out better too. The owner/presenter has panels of different capacity everywhere on his yacht and it seems to iron out any "missmatch" issues. The point he made is that 2 half-capacity controllers cost, together, about the same as a single, combined capacity one and simplifies expansion later on too. His boat must look like a wiring octopus but probably a very tidy octopus. Extending that further, and with different charging requirements for starting (lead acid) batteries and AGM deep cycle house supply I'm wondering whether you can run a larger alternator, together with 2 external smart regulators, to suit the different charging requirements of each type (charge control switch between the 2 regulators) so you can optimally add this source to the charging systems regardless of battery type. From what I see, if you charge a lead-acid flooded battery like you charge an AGM then you inviting an explosion and charging a flooded battery like an AGM leaves it underdone. Have you heard of such a thing?

[@devmich99]

Ian B - Yes, separate MPPT's for each individual Panel would make it a optimum System. Nowadays the MPPT's are quite inexpensive and there's nothing speaking against it except the extended cabling. I for instance have a closed lead acid starting battery and 4 AGM deep cycle for service. All batteries are charged by the same system(s), which are a Sterling AB1280, Victron Multiplus 1600, Superwind 350 charge controller and Victron MPPT 150/35. They are configured for AGM Deep Cycle. The good thing is that the charging profile for AGM and Lead Acid is very similar. Bulk Voltage (to charge up to 80% of battery capacity) for AGM is gradually rising up to 14.4V - 14.8V (depending on temperature. That's why you need to temp control while charging). Well within the range of lead acid. Absorption Voltage (to fill up the remaining 20% of capacity) is around 14.4V and Float Voltage something between 13.2V (recommended for lead acid) and 13.8V (recommended for AGM). With one of these smart controllers you can adapt the charging profile accordingly and as long as they are within the range of your different battery setup, everything goes well. On the other hand, why would you run a flooded battery when there are other options, which are more safe for the same price (closed lead acid)? I've heard about accidents with open lead acid as well as with AGM, Gel and Lithium. It comes down to how much you care about your batteries. And if you want to do it right, go for LifePo4 or something in the lithium range. They cost a lot. My head starts spinning when I do the calculations, but worth spending the money if you look at the long path. More power, more cycles, short charging time, 5 time longer life time, lightweight and non-sensitive. They don't need specific charging profiles. You put in as much Amps as possible from whatever power source you have and you're done (just make sure the chargers switch off when battery is full and switch on when battery charging is required), enjoying at least 90 percent of their capacity. Last year I went for AGMs. Meanwhile I regret spending the money on them because I didn't think twice and didn't plan for the long term.

[@sailingrr]

Thanks. Always appreciate the technical videos, always learn a lot.

[@simoncousin3241]

Very good and simplicity is efficiency in explanations

[@jamesbennett5421]

I will grab some popcorn for the inevitable parallel vs series debate ;). Trying both to see what works best for each boat/environment is great advice. And for the record, I’m a big fan of the ‘blah, blah, blah’ translation of technical/marketing gibberish! Great video and looking forward to the next installment.

[@tonypage811]

Excellent video Nick, you are great at taking a highly technical subject and making it all very logical and easy to understand. Well done and thank you both.

[@seanryder7431]

Really enjoyed the solar panel video thank you and think the control box is a great piece of kit. Keep it coming

[@4x4conqueror]

Cue Mr Burns voice "Excellent" .......Love the new intro for the new Tech Tues too

[@DreadDoctor]

Great Video Guys. I enjoy the Tech. Vid's way more than I thought I would.

[@prov431]

Nick - thought I would throw this out there since I recently did a flex panel install on my boat - Victron makes a Bluetooth MPPT controller now (built in, no dongle required). I also used 6 pair of rare earth magnets (25 lbs holding power each) to mount my flex panels on top of my bimini...much easier and more inexpensive than the clips, and they've held up to 45 mph without budging a bit. I purchased the "Allpower" solar panel with the non-gloss finish..they really look nice! Appreciate your videos bro...cheers.

[@prov431]

Here are the magnets www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0748NZRJH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 In the reviews there is a picture of my install, since then I've added another panel and used the same mounting scheme.

[@seatravel8536]

Excellent video, fantastic using actual graph and your explanation/demonstration was superior.

[@bernardmichels8204]

I teach electronics and you did a brilliant job

[@svbarryduckworth628]

Be aware that if you are connecting more than two panels in parallel that each panel MUST be fused individually to prevent overloading and a fire if one of the panels should short out. Some paralleling splitters have fuses built into them but many do not. The way that solar installers do this on land-based installations is using a "combiner box" which has fuses in the lines and terminal strips (and sometimes diodes although most new panels have diodes built into them.) If you connect in series then there is no issue with short-circuit protection at each panel although the entire line should be fused and there be a disconnect means before the solar controller as well as a fuse/disconnect between the controller and the battery.

[@justlooking2222]

I liked the yoga part !

[@Shmacalacapingo]

Great explanation, thank you bruv!

[@sailingrubyrose]

No problem!

[@leonardkevin12]

Thx for sharing, I enjoy the tech Tuesday’s.

[@RobertHeaney]

Brilliant, Nick. These technical videos are wonderful. Thank you!

[@markgotham5372]

I actually found the Yoga was quite a help explaining it....!!!!!!..... ;-)

[@jameshayden5927]

Liked this just for the ravioli 🤣 great idea guys 🥳

[@sbvol7385]

Nice tech Tuesday vid. Also love the gray v-neck tee. BTW, your explanation and demo of series and parallel was awesome. I was sitting here wondering how the magazine was going to play a role in explanation and I soon had my answer.

[@michaelch5060]

Excellent as always! Thanks guys

[@sk4256]

That was another great one! Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and first hand experience! Sk in the UK

[@davebrady8430]

Educational and food for thought. Thanks for sharing. Good job on the ravioli.

[@henrydebeer8522]

Really good video. Helped me sort out some confusion!

[@johnnosach3124]

Nice job!

[@Bratwire]

Wow guys that’s some good out of the box thinking to attach them, I did Velcro and just take them on/off I like ur way much better.

[@polkahaus]

Bratwire agreed please share where you got the fasteners

[@maritimetees2315]

Well laid out. Love the app. Will pass that on.

[@sk4256]

Love the solar panel yoga! Always best to start the job with a downward dog. Sk in the UK.

[@tommyc9237]

Watched this a couple of years ago and came back to it now that I'm ready to install. Great explanation of why to wire in series. Hope to see you two sailing again very soon, even though you've gone to the shady side (cat) but at least not to the totally dark side (power) Cheers!!

[@Atr42Greasemonkey]

Loving technical Tuesday

[@gregjones7472]

Great Video Nick. Cheers

[@jackienation7694]

Best solar video !

[@danielols1]

Great Video, well explained!! Looking forward to more of this type. Sorry nothing annoyed you we didn't get to enjoy any meltdowns.

[@philandlyra3365]

Really great video, can’t wait to see your video beaching the southerly 👍just because you can

[@CraigOverend]

Simple but effective illustration. How are you managing the service battery charge, starter battery charge (and maintenance charging) and alternator charging of the service battery when the engine is running with this system? I watched an Antares electrical video after their mention in your last live stream. Rather than the usual big red battery master 4 position switch, they have a smart system that prevents the starter battery being placed in parallel with the service battery and left that way to accidently drain to the point the engine won't start. I see dual input, MPPT solar and alternator battery chargers marketed to 4WDers that won't leave you with a flat battery, but all I looked at don't seem to have high voltage solar input for running panels in series which is a bummer. There are some that also detect and remove sulphate from lead plate cells to ensure long service life.

[@drwindsurf]

Thank you. This was an informative video and I really like the way you edited out the repetitive parts :)

[@whyme8068]

You read manuals like I do lol. "...yada yada yada optimized blah blah blah..." Great video and I like the special effects! I'm hoping Tech Tuesday will be a regular thing. One thing I would recommend is a cap for those plastic attachments. In direct sunlight, it won't take too long before they become brittle. Maybe the caps can be attached with some caulking. Cheers!

[@whyme8068]

When you wake up one morning and a panel has blown off in the middle of the night, I want you to think of me lol.

[@mariemorrissey9378]

Well done as always! Both the explanation of the solar and the yoga!😁

[@wynnroberts5388]

As usual vary helpful and clear. Thanks

[@alchik1]

Good info Nick! Keep 'em coming! Cheers!

[@mikied8885]

Great info and well explained! Thanks!

[@oldsoldier]

Another great video thanks !

[@sibrysmi]

Really helpful vid. Thanks for sharing.

[@ryzo2002]

Some-one has been learning how to use Adobe effects. haha! Nicely edited bit of work.

[@pauls4208]

How did you run the wiring from the panels below deck? Presumably, you didn’t put a hole in the deck? Great video by the way!

[@galynd1]

Excellent video explained well.. thanks.

[@ttriff9892]

Not discussed is the issue of the gauge of wire being used (so called 'line loss'). Series wiring allows for use of thinner (less expensive) wire compared to parallel which requires thicker wires for a given distance.

[@darrenj3267]

really useful thanks Nick

[@barrybruckner6919]

Sun glasses shadow makes it look like your weari ng a beanie with a propeller. Lol As always love you channel

[@frodrickfronkensteen9241]

Seems like... with the constant/variable shade aspect of a sailboat, yet plentiful surface area to mount (real estate), amorphous panels would have been a consideration?

[@ylemoine1]

Love the intro to this vlog. 👍

[@anic6559]

great video and very kind of to take time to do that forus , im hoping to get boat next year also , so i ejoy you channel very much, God bless

[@wyatt1506]

Great information

[@UweBehrendt]

Thanks very informative and helpful.

[@dutchglobetrotter4513]

You could make a few more of those ravioli things, with some filling inside and put one or more under the solar panels. So you do have an airflow under the panels.

[@dutchglobetrotter4513]

Well then they just have to live with the heat. It's just a small loss on output. Really like this kind of video's (nice editing)

[@NaRoonStarrider]

good video Nick and I can see that Terysa edited this one ;-) , hope you get to meet up with some of the other big channels that are all in the Caribbean before you head off over the pound. o/

[@NaRoonStarrider]

you are getting better then friend o7

[@richardshippful]

Good video, simple explanation

[@AndyUK-Corrival]

Good info peeps. Thanks. Andy UK

[@jerrystewart2254]

Very good video very educational in an easy way just a quick question neck what paperwork do you need to use when you leave British waters to Sele ie captain's licence daysailer what as I don't know anything about it I was just wondering

[@gyzmopower7599]

Simple yet outstanding 👍

[@ronpieck1007]

Great vid. great ravioli, shame it wasn't the eating kind ! thanks for sharing your thoughts! look forward to the next vid. :)

[@brcharter-conhecimentonaut7862]

Excellent video, thank you!

[@bayareablues2255]

As much as I enjoy hearing about your travelling lives (more surf videos, please! Or maybe show off those Martins you keep talking about.), I really enjoy your how to videos. Very helpful and interesting. Thanks.

[@kbob8424]

Series is the way to go. When you go parallel, you increase amperage. When you do that, it requires thicker cables which means higher costs, harder runs, bigger holes etc. In series, the amperage stays the same. You can run higher voltages on thinner wires than the other way around, cheaper wires, easier runs, smaller holes etc. "But what about shading?" You can install power optimizers on each panel. Each panel will run independently of one another and only shaded panels get effected. All this would of course have to run into the proper equipment to control it at the other end.

[@mchaves7663]

Hi Nick, thanks for the video. What sewing machine do you there?

[@stevenrung5990]

In residential/commercial PV there is a product called micro inverters. Each panels gets its own small inverter so that when panels get shaded all non shaded panels continue to perform at max. A little more expensive, but when shading is a problem it is worth it. Wonder if that exists for sailboat rigs.

[@clarkd1955]

Single panel micro inverters can only be used with a grid tied system. Can’t be used on a boat as they shut off if the grid power can’t be detected. This is so a lineman won’t get electrocuted by solar panels even when he shuts off the main line.

[@svthelxinoe5488]

Yes, they exist. Saw 'em on another YT channel recently (Wynns or Out chasing stars, at least a couple on a cat I just don't recall.) Anyway, the controllers they had for those >1kW in panels were singular 'Genasun' MPPT-Controllers for each panel.

[@raykem7739]

hello very good Inf on the solar panels thanks

[@bartdude]

Is it possible to run 2 of the panels in parallel and then run the 2 sets of parallel panels in series? Maybe the shade from the boom and stays will not be as much of an issue. It Seems that the MPPT controller can handle variable volts and amps so maybe this configuration will help with shadows....You two are the best...thanks!

[@mattwright7273]

Well done.

[@kevinmulvihill3249]

Thanks, enjoyed the video very much

[@humanafterall2076]

Hi guys. The ability to remain as self sufficient as possible and to remove the iron topsail from the charging equation I would strongly recommend wiring your panels in parallel. You are on a vessel that follows the wind/currents and therefore cannot have the panels moved about to best capture the suns rays. In series any partial shadow will invariably nullify all that you have aimed for. In parallel you will at least have the benefit, though slightly diminished to be able to provide some of the amperage that is required. We work in AH, replenishing it as quick as possible for the smallest loss is what’s important., the greatest voltage is not necessarily the greatest advantage. Voltage is just pressure. I like the idea of series, but experience has taught me otherwise on a boat. On a static property or an RV that you can manipulate the angles then run with series. On a boat I would beg to differ. I look forward to seeing how your setup works going forward. I do hope it serves you well and I will buy you a cheeky pint in due course if it does. Look forward to seeing you guys up here in Europe soon.

[@russpatterson2284]

Hi Nick. Thanks for this video. I don't know if you'll answer questions about it 2 years later, but I'm wondering if any fusing was necessary, or does the controller handle that? Also what about battery monitoring? Will your bluetooth connection tell you all you need to know, or do you need a separate battery monitor?

[@sailingrubyrose]

Hey mate. The fusing is handled by the regulator. The Bluetooth unit monitors all the output a Though we also have a separate battery monitor

[@TraneFrancks]

Hiya, Nick. Interesting episode. Quick question about amperage from the solar array: Earlier in the episode, your app showed ~50V @ 4a and from around 11:00-11:30 or so, we see the same 50V, but a descending amperage as low as 2.3a. Would that be caused by shadows killing output on cells? If my understanding is correct, shadows would keep our voltage, but reduce the current produced.