Easy steps for Ductless mini split vacuum pump setup for 410a refrigerant

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[@rbabusrisaisakthi2893]

Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) kzbin.infoUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Awesome!

[@jamesrowe6389]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Answered every question that I have. I will be running my vacuum next weekend. I have done this before but been so long I was unsure of the steps. Thanks again. Great tutorial. I also love that there was no extra fluff involved.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Fantastic James! Make sure you get the adapters I linked on this video. You definetely need it for a mins split.

[@semarugaijin9451]

@@SaveGreenHere I dont see a link for the adaptor, can you please double check and post?

[@SaveGreenHere]

It is the second one, but here it is.... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN

[@grzejnikMilosz]

I don't know why you have likes off Man. Your channel is the best source of simple and to-point step-by-step instructions for DIYs like me. Thank You!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Thank you so much 👍

[@scottleppard288]

Thanks for your video. I installed a multi zone system and followed your directions. Worked out perfect, thanks for the education!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it helped

[@allansplace]

Thanks for a great explanation of how this is done. You saved me a couple of thousand in installation fees!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it helped!

[@fishycomics]

thank you: Straight to the point, understanding it and will make my Decommission/install easier with confidence. appreciate the showing.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Thanks!

[@CyndiLyons-uv1rj]

Great instruction. Simple, easy to follow, and helpful.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jasonparkinson7621]

This video helped me to finally understand-after watching other tutorials and not understanding. Thanks for sharing. 👍

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it helped!

[@zachmalinsky1933]

Thanks for keeping this simple and straight forward

[@SaveGreenHere]

YOU ARE WELCOME!

[@pyroshnid]

The instructions with my pump where not very good, this video made it so much easier Thanks for the help, we now have lovely cool AC

[@SaveGreenHere]

Thank you!

[@greatdane3343]

Thanks for a clear, concise refresher mate 👍🏼

[@SaveGreenHere]

No problem 👍

[@ETprepper]

Thanks, I can do this now. Simple and straightforward. I will follow exactly.

[@SaveGreenHere]

You're welcome!

[@justinbucher6300]

Great video man. Clear and to the point. This helped me a lot installing my mini split unit!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it helped!

[@LakayRicky]

Thanks for mentioning the oil needed for the pump. Had no idea

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes, just as mentioned on the vid, and don't forget to bleed any air out of the line, and you will be ok.

[@thecarlosgarcia5537]

Great video. Short and simple.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it was helpful!

[@kelvindwyer2938]

very simple and to the point, thanks.

[@SaveGreenHere]

You're welcome!

[@GotchaplumberGotchahvac]

Enjoyed video of mini split HVAC unit.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Thanks 👍

[@thedjob]

Thank you blowing nice and cold in the RV

[@SaveGreenHere]

Our pleasure!

[@todddixon82]

Best video I’ve seen. I’ll be up and running today

[@SaveGreenHere]

Awesome!

[@Richism4U]

Big Thank You for this video. Huge help for nubbie installation. Appreciate you.

[@SaveGreenHere]

You're welcome!

[@NickAlati]

Awesome video man, to the point not BS - Thanks, Nick from Arizona

[@SaveGreenHere]

Appreciate it!

[@AaronAnita456]

I have to leak in my system, and I have to make a new flare. Do I down pump and put the freon (at least what's left) back inside the unit, close the service ports? Or do I just run the vacuum pump to take it all out (with service ports open)?

[@RicardoVargas-cg7jf]

Thank you very much this video helped me

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it helped

[@Moguiman]

Is the process the same for a multi zone unit? I'm installing an Alpine 4 zone Hyper-Heat

[@christopherroman3891]

Thanks for the help.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Happy to help

[@prepper1013]

Great video brother. Its the best how to for this job on the Tube. Thanks man!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad to help

[@desifre3544]

hello very nice channel very useful thank you for good useful shares i have a question i want to work with the air conditioner compressor externally I connected (+) L directly to c /// I made parallel connection from (-) N to capacitor // R I made a connection from the other leg of the capacitor or fuse blows or the compressor runs for 2 seconds 5/6 seconds stops and rings again for 2 seconds and it gets very hot.

[@joeyysossa4144]

I like yr video!..but I wish you would of started from connecting the manifold hoses and opening/ closing the service valves...thats where Im confused...how to start the vacume prosess from Zero...help me out..please..

[@giicllc8819]

I just figured out how to see if my Schrader valvenis engaged, all I did was crack open the low side in front of the valve and low an behold the neg pressure went up. Ok good. I'm neg Vacuum again, pinned at 30 and will wait for a good hour or 2 vacuum just to try & get any moisture out, then let it hold over night. If pressure is good on the morning, o release the gas and STOP SWEATING!! HA! Thanks for the video!

[@rayray9777]

Piece of cake stop sweating.. 😂

[@dianalfredalonzo6645]

this sir was very helpful thank you.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it helped

[@diysolaradventures7894]

I lost all the pressure and my mini-split lines does vacuuming create pressure order the pump actually creates the pressure to put the refrigerant through cuz I'm not getting nothing it barely wants to run out back

[@designsinorbit]

Awesome video man. Quick question if you don't mind...I have a mini split with multiple connections (I use two of them) and one master. They all have valves. After removing all of the refrigerant just as you described, should I fill the master or fill each individually? Actually, the first question should be whether I use the master valves to vacuum it out....

[@Ca_Ba]

Thank you for posting this video... not complicated to follow as others.... thank you for making this video in plain English...

[@SaveGreenHere]

Glad it was helpful!

[@michael931]

What if it is a previously owned system with no refrigerant in it? What additional steps are required?

[@giicllc8819]

First Thank you for the video. I am a DIYer in the South Pacific in the middle of No where! I guess I am now the chief HVAC guy, God help me! Ha. 2 question's 1 Unfortunately I cant get any Nog any time soon , like 4 to 6 months, so i used the slightest amount of wd40 on my threads and back of flare only. Also no torque wrench either, I just snuged it, went 1/4" past, loosened then tightened again. Doesnt seem to be leaking. So question is when I have done my vacuum test & i pulled a -30 quite quickly (16ft of line) , and it has stayed there for 25 minutes or so, But How do I know that my adapter to the Ac unit is depressing that shrader valve? I cant waste any gas to positive test as it is not in this country.... any other way to tell? 2:

[@jssealion1]

Thanks for the video, I have a dual mini split and I assume that I will have to vacuum both sets of lines? Thanks

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes you do

[@omegaman7241]

thanks for video!

[@SaveGreenHere]

No problem!

[@brunokc100]

Do i need 4 way Manometer or is a 2 way fine?

[@patrickwhitfield8280]

A vacuum test is two-fold... to clear the system of any foreign matter, and to double check your system for leaks. Think of it like a nail in a hole... if you use vacuum, the nail will be suctioned into to hole ander pressure and create a better seal. If pressure is applied frome the inside, the nail will leak. A/C systems operate at pressure, NOT vacuum. Mini-splits operate at 450 psi on average. So, pressure testing is going to need to be at at least 150-200 psi. That's more than an air compressor can handle. The pressure test doesn't need to be nitrogen. It can be any inert gas. I use my oxygen bottle from my oxy/fuel torch. Lowe's sells a (1/4 flr x 1/4 mip) half union for just over $2 that will hook up to your 1/4" vacuum line. So, if you have an oxy/fuel setup, or know someone who has one, it's very cheap and easy to pressure check your system first. Just pressurize to 150-200 psi, put some dish soap on the connections with a brush, then wait and check for bubbles. Tighten as needed. Then vacuum the system and introduce refrigerant. And you should be introducing refrigerant before disconnecting the blue line. You will lose a minimal amount of refrigerant, but the pressure will keep foreign matter from entering the system. If you disconnect the blue line before releasing th refrigerant charge, that split second that the Schrader valve is open will allow foreign matter into the system because the system is under a vacuum and trying to equalize with the outside atmosphere. If you disconnect the blue line first, you'll have to vacuum again.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Patrick, thanks for adding those points! Much appreciated.

[@AEMBowers]

I'm curious. What about using a high pressure air gun hand pump to put regular air in (such hand pumps go to ~5000 psi and only cost around $50)? Regular air consists of ~78% nitrogen, ~20% oxygen, and the rest is carbon dioxide and argon. If many use nitrogen, you suggest oxygen, and you also suggest that any inert gas will do (which includes argon and carbon dioxide, at least within the context here), then why can't regular air be used? Isn't whatever gas(es) used vacuumed out afterward anyway?

[@gregh7457]

@@AEMBowers just do the soap and water test while its runnig. if no bubbles, no leaks

[@rayray9777]

You do you.. lol

[@mplscarsales6652]

Tks for this video

[@SaveGreenHere]

My pleasure

[@miguelcoronado850]

Thanks so much

[@SaveGreenHere]

No problem!

[@ericcunningham1138]

Thanks for your great explanation. Are you pulling a vacuum with the high and low side valves closed? If the low side valve is closed then how does the vacuum reach the lines? Does it bypass the closed valve? In other words, does closing the low side valve just seal the unit from the low side line while the Schroeder valve still can access the line?

[@howtodoitdude1662]

Yes. You are vacuuming the lines, not the unit. The valves keep the refrigerant sealed inside the unit until the lines are vacuumed, then the valves are opened one at a time to release the refrigerant into the lines. No valves are touched on the unit while vacuuming.

[@icidro1]

What would you recommend to use if you used the nylog, triple checked the lines and the gauge needle still moves after vacuum?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Use a spray bottle with 1 tbsp of soap and spray the connections. Check for bubbling. If you see bubbles, you have a leak.

[@BoriPR82]

I woulfd use a micron guage with the vaccuum. You want to make sure you dont have moisture or air

[@SaveGreenHere]

Are you using a digital one? I am using this one for a few years now and works great! amzn.to/319FFSg

[@19134ANDY]

what if you need to pump a dual mini split?

[@danielkornmeyer4254]

Thank you!

[@SaveGreenHere]

You're welcome!

[@jennifermartin7838]

How do you isolate the refrigerant into the outdoor unit before this procedure is done? I can't find any videos from anyone on that. Thanks!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Outdoor units already come with refrigerant inside the compressor.

[@Eyball1972]

Is the red valve just shut off in your video? I see you have that hose looped. Do I just open the blue low know then run my pump? Thanks! Great video explanation.😂

[@SaveGreenHere]

Red valve shut, and red hose, looped as shown in the video. The blue valve has to be open while running the pump, otherwise you cannot perform a proper vacuum, and get the moisture out. So open the valve, and turn the pump on. Run pump for 20 minutes just to make sure. Follow the rest of the steps on the video after running the pump.

[@clementwarrior]

Thanks for posting this very clear explanation, will be my guide in my current mini-split first installation

[@SaveGreenHere]

You are welcome!

[@OP-nz7dl]

Is the low side where you add the refrigerant always on top and the bigger line?

[@jamminwrenches860]

It's always the bigger line. Not always on top.

[@gohan723super3]

Also the hoses that connect to the adapter with out the depression piece we should remove those valves where they connect if that makes sense? Thanks

[@SaveGreenHere]

The adaptor piece, yes can be removed when done using.

[@anthonybrown6285]

@@SaveGreenHere Do you remove the adapter after you release the gas? Wouldnt that allow some of it to escape?

[@steveelim]

It's more advisable to use a micron gauge than the manifold gauge to pull a vacuum. The latter does not have the pressure unit resolution required for a deep vacuum.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes Steve! I have used this one because of Bluetooth capabilities..... amzn.to/2ZX10ta The video demo was to show a DIYer that does not have one. Typically, 20 minutes of the gauges not moving after the vacuum pull is equivalent to a tight lineset.

[@hiddenfire539]

Thanks!

[@SaveGreenHere]

No problem!

[@johnniethomas8369]

Where do I get that adapter you glazed over so quickly. You said it was important but you didn't go any further about what it is, where to get one etc. Does it come with the manifold gauges? Thank you

[@SaveGreenHere]

I put it on the list of items on this video's description. Here it is anyway..... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN

[@garyanderson3045]

I couldn't find nylog so I used a paste on the "threads ONLY" NOT on the flare, so the flare is bare of any product. I know how to tighten a flare correctly. I pulled a vac in 2 minutes, and it holds for 30 min. -- Do I need to disassemble use nylog, and vac for 15 min (even if it reads -30 in two min)? >>> ALSO, I have a 4 way manifold with a black knob in front and blue on the left. I assume the red hose is just insurance. PS: great vid!

[@OldFloatingSeaman]

DO NOT put any paste etc on the treads as this will affect the amount of Torque you put on the nuts. You could strip the thread.

[@Phil-rs5wl]

I have a 3 head unit I just hooked up it says on the outdoor unit only vacuum 1 port. Does that mean only put vacuum to one line? I was thinking I'd have to vacuum all 3 line sets separately but when I saw that I wasn't sure. Thanks

[@Ca_Ba]

I have the same question.... any replies? For a multi-zone mini split system? Do we vacuum individually?

[@EMartinRoss]

Hello. Excellent video. When it comes to releasing the gas into the system, does it make a big difference if the low line is opened first? I'm not sure if I did that or not. I appreciate your response. Thank you.

[@brittananderson7]

Not really. The system is going to balance out so that the pressure is balance on both the low and high side. Just dont open one side all the way and not the other. Slowly release. You could possible slam the TXV or metering device open or closed.

[@DatNguyen-sh8fv]

If i need to vacumm after using the minimsolit. Do i need to recharge my mini split first or vacuum it first? Thank you.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Vacuum to make sure there are no leaks.

[@danbenna5540]

Get a micron gauge and run the system until you are under 500 microns

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes, this is the one we use..... amzn.to/3sDrx1F

[@gazd4812]

so at the end, after you opened the high pressure valve on the AC (and before opening the low pressure valve), did you check if your blue gauge reading went up? per my AC installation instructions, it suppose to, but it never did. so i have the sense that i only vacuumed the hose to the AC and not the whole line.(i think my valve core never opened, to let the air escape). the AC still works, but i guess i shortened its life significantly. :(

[@coscarart]

I had the same problem - had to remove part of the valve from the adapter........ I managed to waste enough 421a that I needed to buy some more to refill

[@christopherboggs306]

@@coscarart Same thing here - but I realized the low pressure hose was just backwards - one end has a pin to fit the schrader valve that's on the adapter, after I had already removed the valve core from it.

[@nightplay7443]

Hey great video, I'll be using it for a repair in a couple days. I had one question though, can I reuse refrigerant that I purge out? I know how many pounds I am supposed to have in the system but I don't know how much to order. I don't want to have 6 pounds if I only need 1 to replace what was lost. Or do I need to remove all of the refrigerant and just put in the full amount? That's the only thing confusing me still.

[@SaveGreenHere]

If you remove it into a tank, you need to put the tank on a refrigerant scale, weigh it, then weigh it AFTER collecting the refrigerant into it. Doing math, take the weight after collected, minus the weight of tank alone. This is how much refrigerant you have. Look on the side label of the indoor unit, and it will tell you how much you need. Add the difference of what it takes, from what you already collected into your tank. Here is the link to the HVAC scale....... amzn.to/3CcMens

[@nightplay7443]

@@SaveGreenHere thanks very much for the reply! I will do that and let you know how it goes.

[@rogerbivins9144]

Most of the other videos I've watched instructed to remove the shader valve from the condenser before vacuuming. I'm assuming you did not do that here, otherwise it would seem that coolant would be lost when removing the vacuum hose?

[@SouthGeorgiaHotShot]

I cant find an answer to this either

[@tulio3571]

Hi there right at the end you did not disconnect the blue hose , when you disconnect it ,are you going to loose refrigerant since the refrigerant was already released ? THANK YOU.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Minimal refrigerant goes out, very little.

[@tulio3571]

@@SaveGreenHere .thank you

[@potsmoker7778]

Would a 3.5cmf dual stage vacuum pump work? I know you recommended a 5cmf

[@SaveGreenHere]

It would work and will take longer, but dual stage is better.

[@patricklions9066]

Is a shrader valve removal tool nessecary? The kind that holds vaccum when removing, installing?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Don't mess with the schrader valve unless your schrader valve is bad. You don't need the removal tool for vacuuming the air out of the lineset.

[@sinistarxx]

​@@SaveGreenHere This is true if you have the blue hose oriented correctly. If your hoses are like mine, the ends with the little extension on them has the nipple inside to engage the schrader valve to press it open while the gauges are hooked up. I just did this process on a new install this week, and when I hooked the hoses up the way you have them in the video, the only vacuum I was pulling was between the gauges and the service port schrader valve. If the schrader valve isn't getting engaged, you're not pumping down your line set, you're only pumping down the blue hose. Also, to anyone else installing one of these, if you cheap out on the gauges, make sure you at least buy a decent adaptor separately for the mini split connection. The cheap gauges I bought included the adapter, and it was garbage and leaked like a sieve.

[@colleenstone9602]

I have to add refrigerant to my mini split. I had a leak. I will vacuum first I know that. My question is, when I am recharging the refrigerant into the system, is the compressor supposed to be running? The lines that we use an allen wrench on, are they supposed to be open while recharging? I just get a little confused and not able to find the exact answers to these questions. Thank you.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Running in Cool mode. Suck up the remaining refrigerant (if any). First, connect the blue line hose into the service port, and use the mini split adapter. (amzn.to/3PGk6fT) DO NOT open the blue valve on the manifold. The gauge will measure pressure. Once you "pump down" the refrigerant into the compressor, it will show zero pressure. That means all refrigerant is inside the compressor. 1) close the service port with your hex key of the liquid line, the thinner line 2) Turn on the system in cool mode. You should see the gauge pressure start to drop. 3)Once it hits "zero" pressure, quickly use your hex key and CLOSE the valve to the suction line. IMMEDIATELY pull the electric disconnect, or breaker to the mini split, so no power is fed to the unit. Remember to fix your leak, otherwise you will be doing this again next year! Use Nylog. Use a scale to weigh your refrigerant! The side of your indoor unit will tell you how many pounds it needs.

[@MegaRiffraff]

I have a vacuum pump for automotive a/c units , it's not electric it runs off an air compressor , do you know if it will be ok for these mini split units .

[@SaveGreenHere]

Probably not if used on different refrigerant.

[@johnmatasr1074]

Before you hook up to vacuum you have to close the high and low vale s to the mini split???

[@SaveGreenHere]

Do it as shown on the video and you will be fine

[@dustintunis9347]

They are already closed, the refrigerant is pre-charged in the outdoor unit. You are checking to be sure the lines are all properly sealed.

[@Nobody_Important_Yea]

Great!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Thanks!

[@joseriofrio8338]

By releasing the refrigerant with the manifold still connected, wouldn't the blue hose fill up with refrigerant? Are you saying this is a negligible amount of wasted refrigerant? Would it be worth getting a small shutoff valve to put right by the service port? Thanks for the great video!

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes, you can get something like this..... amzn.to/2Tc4nxn

[@jaydub3597]

@@SaveGreenHere Yes, it is a negligible amount, or yes you should get the shut off valve?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes, as get the shut off valve

[@joseriofrio8338]

Thanks. How about releasing only a very small of refrigerant until the pressure in the gauge crosses into the positive, then stop the flow of refrigerant, disconnect manifold, then release the full amount of refrigerant. Would this be a valid strategy to minimize the amount of wasted refrigerant?

[@leog6742]

What kind of oil for the vacumm pump did you use ? I bought the same pump that u got , but it didn't come with oil , manual says that I need HFV32 but nobody has it or heard of it Thanks

[@SaveGreenHere]

They probably do not include it anymore. But it's the V32, and it's this one..... amzn.to/3qbZFuW

[@leog6742]

Thanks 👍

[@scottreid4170]

Question: Since you released the refrigerant into the system before removing gauges, won't freon leak from system once you remove gauges?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Scott it's a small amount. It happens when you take the gauges off after checking pressures. Just pull the gauges off at the connections swiftly.

[@grzejnikMilosz]

Also, it is not Freon. Freon is banned for some decades already. But still even modern refrigerant that are used today, I guess are not allowed to be released to atmosphere. Of course as Scott said, small puffs may happen during disconnecting from lines and you cannot avoid it.

[@sinistarxx]

@@SaveGreenHere Is there a reason why you can't just pull the gauge line off of the service port before releasing the refrigerant?

[@danorion369]

@@sinistarxx my guess is that it's a vacuumed line now so the moment you pull the gauge line off, gas /air pressure will go into the lines first. But if you release the refrigerant first.. the line will be filled with refrigerant and once you release the gauge line, refrigerant will force out vs air coming in the vacuum. The amount of refrigerant you lose during this situation is negligible. In our case, our minisplit is filled with enough refrigerant to accommodate a 25ft line whereas we'll be only use a 16ft line so we can definitely lose a lot more refrigerant!

[@rayray9777]

Why do I need the adapter on a split unit. My hose are the same thread pattern and can bolt right up

[@SaveGreenHere]

Did you verify this?

[@user-ql6vf1wt4v]

I may be wrong but if you close the valve after turning off the pump your no longer hooked to the system you won't know if it leaks down or not.

[@thedadbodgarage1823]

The gague reads the line side, not the charge side. When you shut the valve, it only shuts off the charge side.

[@dontworrybehappy9713]

Looking to buy a set of gauges and pump .What do u recommend?

[@SaveGreenHere]

amzn.to/3kyrDP8 but if you look at the video description, there is an economy one there that is listed.

[@mikeberger1688]

stupid question. so when you buy a new mini split unit, internally, they already have enough refrigerant to run the system? -- nice video.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Not a stupid question. They do come precharged. However, if the lines are ran over 12 feet, more refrigerant may be required.

[@sylviaisgod6947]

Check the product literature, it will tell you (usually) how long a line set the charge is good for.

[@thomasv5596]

wouldn't you cut the ability for a vacuum leak to be detected off when you close the blue valve?

[@SaveGreenHere]

No. The blue valve will cut off the communication from the blue hose to the other hoses, such as the yellow hose or the red hose. When the valve was open, it was communicating between the copper lines, and the yellow hose connected to the vacuum pump. Once the blue valve is shut, it cuts off the yellow line communication, (to the pump) but still measures pressure from the system. The refrigerant is still inside the compressor, until the very last step, once it's released into the lines. Both low and high side gauges are a "straight through" connection to the hoses directly under them, so as to always have a pressure reading. So even if closed, you get a pressure reading.

[@dontworrybehappy9713]

If had leak.Need to vacuum then add refrigerant.How to video on adding

[@SaveGreenHere]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5KaoGVtlLCii8U

[@xxvodanhxx]

My vacuum isn't reaching 30 in hg. It's like at -20 in hg. I'm in Santa ana that's supposed to be around sea level and I should expect -30 in hg. Is the vacuum just not strong enough? Or is the dial just out of calibration? Does it matter if it's not low enough but doesn't leak is that ok?

[@sbjetski1853]

That’s because you have a leak in your line sets

[@rayray9777]

In my opinion, not a professional but it it is stable and not leaking your good. Let it sit for awhile to make sure. Actually what did you end up doing?

[@JC.72]

yes how did it go? was -20 psi good enough?

[@MelvinAlc]

I'm replacing my condenser on my mrcool mini split can i check for leaks before changing it ?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes, use this tool, and check particularly the screw connections on the condenser unit, and on the indoor unit........... amzn.to/4cio76j It is simple, and effective for basic detection. If you prefer a professional tool, this is what pros use..... amzn.to/3Vfythe

[@ethanc9004]

Or soap bubble all joints where it was brazed at for starters

[@user-xw2kh9fr2v]

What's the purpose of the red valve. When do you open it and when do you close it?

[@Phuong_Nguyen_]

Nothing in this case. You need two gauges when working on car AC.

[@dustintunis9347]

The red valve is high pressure side, blue is low pressure side. You would use them both if you're checking the running pressures on a refrigeration unit to determine if it's properly charged.

[@thedjob]

Mine seems to fit just fine without the adapter.why is the adapter important ? Thank you

[@bobhardy3]

Some. MS's have a smaller fitting requiring you to down size with a reducer adapter.

[@johncallahan1105]

Pump n gauges arrived today Hooked up ,ran 15 mins My question gauge never went under zero during running stage , Is this ok ? Or needs to go below zero?

[@gazd4812]

Did you open the blue knob?

[@SaveGreenHere]

So did you open the blue knob?

[@joaquinsuarez6090]

@@gazd4812 Yes, you open the blue knob/hose before turning pump on, run pump for 15 minutes, turn off blue knob/hose and yurn off pump aswell. Wait 15 minutes and check blue gauge to see if it stayed at minus 30 or whatever minus pressure your unit instructions say. If stays the same then open refrigerant on both copper lines and at the end remove blue hose from ac.

[@user-nx7le6sn8v]

I assume the AC unit is off while test is being conducted ?

[@brittananderson7]

Yes. Machine is off. Technically the electrical doesnt even need to be connected yet. This is just to make sure that there is no air or moisture in the line and also that there are no leaks. If the pressure were to rise you either have a lot of moisture in the the line or there is a leak at one of your connection points and air is getting in to the the line.

[@chriscol6771]

Can you test or check for a leak using vaccume pump ? Or does it need to be pressurized? Got leak in mini split. Need to find leak 1st to fix it before recharging unit.

[@chriscol6771]

Meaning will like a soap solution create bubbles to show you where leak is at with vaccume ? Or it has to be pressure to cause soap to bubble ? Thank you

[@SaveGreenHere]

Bubbles will be clearly visible if there is a leak, particularly at the connections.

[@chriscol6771]

@@SaveGreenHere thanks for responding. I will do the soap & water mixture test. Wasn't sure if a vaccume would cause bubbles though. Appreciate your time & video's!

[@SaveGreenHere]

You do the soap bubble test while the refrigerant is in in, NOT while under a vacuum. But while under vacuum, you can check that your gauge needle is steady and not moving. However the BEST APPROACH is a micron gauge...... amzn.to/3wvn2VK

[@dlloyd6300]

@@chriscol6771 vacuum will not cause bubbles. The system must be under pressure to identify a leak with the bubble test. leaks under vacuum you will just have to reseat your connections and hope to hold the vacuum after adjustments.

[@fadzrulyusoff9912]

Hii.. i just install mini split AC... I follow step by step.. connecting blue hose to the AC maintenance port and yellow hose to the vacuum pump...after finished vacuuming when see the manifold pressure didnt move.. i releasing the refrigerant but my manifold didnt show any pressure at all... Its like it didn't vacuum the AC.. only vacuum the Hose... What did i did wrong... Do i need to thighten the blue hose super thight? Or did i need an adapter.. pls help.. i have another AC to install in another room... But since i have this issue.. i scared to install another one... This AC that i already install cant be vacuum anymore right.. because already release the refrigerant..

[@christopherboggs306]

Likely you've got the low pressure hose backwards. On mine, only one end (with the angled connector) had the pin to depress the schrader valve that was on the adapter hookup. The other end doesn't have anything to depress that pin so you never open the valve to the line set and end up vacuuming just the manifold and low pressure hose, not the line set. Check the other end of your low pressure hose on the manifold guage set and turn it around if necessary! Worst case, remove the schrader valve from the adapter.

[@sarahauser3641]

My mitsubishi mini split that I'm installing says in the directions to use a micron gauge and break the vacuum with nitrogen, can I do without it? I know if I call my HVAC tech that I used in the past, he will not use one. I want to do what ever is correct. Thank you

[@SaveGreenHere]

You can get a vacuum micron gauge, to be 100% sure...... amzn.to/3e5GUTv That is a simple gauge, and even brings an adaptor.

[@patrickwhitfield8280]

You should be pressure checking the system for leaks first. I have an oxy/fuel torch... So, I just used my oxygen bottle. Mini-splits usually operate at about 450 psi. So, you'll need to pressure check to at least 150-200 psi. Then use dish soap on your connections to determine any leaks. It doesn't need to be nitrogen. Any inert gas will work.

[@iceman9867]

So if it's a multi zone, I'd open up the main valves to release the freon before opening up the high side and low side from each vacuumed zone?

[@tulio3571]

Do you apply nylog to the service caps ? thanks

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes I do, just for good measure.

[@tulio3571]

@@SaveGreenHere .thank you

[@GotchaplumberGotchahvac]

What are the name of guages? What the two knobs to left and right?

[@SaveGreenHere]

amzn.to/3TvAOjw

[@mustangforme4]

Wish there was more to the video regarding how to take the line off. I tighten my blue line too much and assumed it was pressure coming off when unscrewing it. I closed it back up but I'm afraid of trying again and losing too much refrigerant =|

[@SaveGreenHere]

u have to be quick in the process

[@pico1991]

@@SaveGreenHere So that quick disconnect -- I need to pull quickly. I should expect even a small bit of escaping refrigerant?

[@jayk.8192]

Can any Joe Blow buy the refrigerant? Is it R22?

[@SaveGreenHere]

410A refrigerant

[@djfar1]

You said "make sure you have this adapter" - it would be helpful to know what kind of adapter it is (or a link)

[@SaveGreenHere]

The link is in the video description, if you go there. Has been there since day one, lol. Anyway, here it is..... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN

[@rayray9777]

@@SaveGreenHere why is the adapter needed? My hose bolts right up

[@otrookie]

Can you disconnect the blue line from mini split before releasing refrigerant? So you don’t have it come out at all

[@musselfrittaz]

No because you will introduce air back into the lines as it is under vacuum

[@SaveGreenHere]

NO. If you do, air will enter. Not good.

[@jackharvest1]

@@SaveGreenHere Maybe I just don’t understand… Does this fill my vacuum line that is blue with refrigerant? Or is there some sort of magical thing happening at the valve that stops it from entering the vacuum line? I absolutely will do this exactly as you’ve shown, I’m just trying to wrap my brain around it.

[@randyriggs5457]

Must I pressure test the lines? Also, must I vacuum both lines?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Do the steps with the pump, as shown on the video. Keep an eye on the needle on your gauges. If no movement, as shown on the video, you have NO LEAKS. Simple.

[@randyriggs5457]

@@SaveGreenHere thanks

[@miguelcoronado850]

Do you recommend vacuum pumping a mini split regularly, perhaps once a year? Or do we only vacuum pump it the one time that we need to release the refrigerant upon installation?

[@SaveGreenHere]

You do not need to vacuum pump unless performing a repair that is refrigerant related, or servicing.

[@johnvdejesus]

i did not vacuum prior to adding the refrigerant, what do I do now? Should I vacuum?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Yes, you need to vacuum as shown on the video.

[@porthugiz1]

I did 2 ac and didnt vacuum them and there been running for 2 years no problem! 🤷‍♂️ im just a diy....

[@Oz-ov1uu]

You have to pump it down to get the refrigerant out of the lines and back into the outdoor unit, close them off and then vacuum the lines. If you don't vacuum it water (in the air) gets in and eventually your compressor won't be able to work properly. Instead of your unit lasting 15 years it will last maybe a few instead.

[@sylviaisgod6947]

@@porthugiz1 I drove a car with no oil in it and never had a problem.... until the engine blew.

[@760gsxr1000]

So It holds negative 30 with pump on but gauge goes to zero slowly when it's off, guessing it's a leak? . Any tips to trouble shoot / what do I do from here?

[@SaveGreenHere]

Check if your ends are not tight enough. Did you use Nylog? If not, you are asking for it......... amzn.to/30BBQ5R

[@760gsxr1000]

@@SaveGreenHere hey man thanks for the prompt reply. Went back and checked the fittings and that ended up being the problem. Thanks so much for the video too it was super helpful

[@cthulhuchaos]

My first mini-split install when smooth. My 2nd is a mess. Brand new unit, no refrigerant released, yet. While using the vac, gauge doesn't even get down to -30. Once vacuum is im turned off, immediately goes back to 0. Sprayed w/ windex for leaks around joints, nothing. What next or what's a better way to find a leak when I haven't introduced refrigerant to the system?

[@dustintunis9347]

You're putting a vacuum on it, not pressurizing it, so you won't get bubbles when you spray it. If you can somehow pressurize it then you should find leaks that way, otherwise make sure you didn't leave a connection loose... Did you put Nylog blue on the flares? I haven't installed a mini split yet, but I'm researching it and read that factory flares tend to leak, but Nylog blue will help them to seal.

[@SaveGreenHere]

Correct! Here's the Nylog blue link...... amzn.to/3UUiVhg

[@cthulhuchaos]

Thank you both. I'll check out the Nylog Blue.

[@brittananderson7]

I would also recommend using a torque wrench when you make your connections. Most people dont but there is a reason it is recommended. Too tight OR too loose is bad. As a service technician this was one of the most common issues with minisplits that eventually stopped working; refrigerant leaks because a torque wrench was not used.

[@JosStrange]

So then I just leave the blue hose on there forever?

[@SaveGreenHere]

No you do not leave it on forever

[@sylviaisgod6947]

You have to find another video that shows how to remove the blue house without letting all the gas out.

[@bradmishawaka]

It’s like a bike tire. Remove it fast and your done

[@kevinkubed7683]

I prefer the hoses with the quick disconnect fittings on them. No frostbite. Or even the ones with ball valves

[@Phuong_Nguyen_]

@@kevinkubed7683but where can we find it? I’m trying to find a 5/16 to quick connect style that you find on cars