Easy To Make Quality Machine Die Holders For Use On Lathe And Bench

See how easy it is to make a good quality set of aluminium machine die holders on the lathe. These are versatile die holders that can be used for lathe or bench work. Also simple methods shown to make production much quicker, without being complicated.

[@SteveJordan]

FOLLOW & COMMENT HERE facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952

[@wither8]

Oh man quality Record straight outta Sheffield! Classic! Great idea as usual. A year later, I'm still amazed every time I use my version of your tool post drill. I should get around to adding those dividing stops to my backplate. Keep em coming, Steve1

[@practicemakesbetter7132]

Great video Steve, I think it is the best tail stock holder project on KZbin.

[@goldeee666]

very informative. thank you for posting. disregard the idiotic comments. it is obvious they think reading about a subject is the same as doing it. you make it look easy to get nice looking results and I know that takes a lot of hands on effort and great care.

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

2wheel charlie on board there always check web pages of negiative comments...and dead on they havent a clue.. i have .been a machinist 42 yrs

[@robertpearson8798]

Thank you, some good tips here that I haven’t seen anywhere else. I’m about to make one of these and you’ve been very helpful.

[@CleaveMountaineering]

Wow, I love that tool post drill and the dividing holes in the backplate.

[@neilduncan8848]

Here in New Zealand one of the companies that's produce aluminium have a grade known as "Free Machining" and it's a real treat to working with

[@JScrim]

Neil Duncan which company is that? I deal with inex for extrusions and im just getting into using a lathe.

[@MrCubflyer]

very nice setup im going to make some of those thank you so much. Great Video.

[@pauls5745]

if you just nib the center spot before drilling, you can measure half the diam of the die out from center and just kiss the face with the boring bar while rotating slowly and have a very close guide line to hog out to. seems better than tracing around the die with a marker and saves even more measuring or test fitting the bore than as Steve shows

[@p1973ify]

Hi Mr. Jordan, great work and a very nice Myford lathe, I´m biging learning and your´s vídeos are a big inspiration, many thanks...kind regards from Portugal, Paulo

[@stanburdick9708]

Mr steve your an inspiration to the hobby not too mention a great teacher

[@Mr67chev]

I enjoy watching your videos. They are interesting and informational. I wonder why you don't finish tapping on the lathe, then have to reset up the piece in the lathe. I also enjoy your voice, it reminds me of Peter Sallis.

[@zombieprinting2670]

Thanks for this Steve, Built one last night and works wonders in comparison to my hand die cutting lol.

[@pauln1557]

Excellent video Steve. As a newbie to turning I'm learning much by watching you work and picking ideas to enhance my ML7. Carriage stops and a saddle locking lever are next on the list of jobs. Then a tool post drilling attachment. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge. Paul

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Paul, Thanks, I hope to do some more when I get time. I am just finishing a new bench for mine. The one that I had wasn't strong enough! I bought my carriage stop and locking lever on Ebay, but it is much more satisfying if you make your own. I have several other ideas for the ML7 in mind thanks again.....Steve

[@2024bear]

Awesome setup on you home made attachments.but ......... what I really like is that you talk while working and so many don't and it makes for a long showing. With your way of filming I can see while you explain and do at the same time. Easier way for me to learn. Thanks for your technique. I would like to see how you made the drill attachment, so I'll subscribe and peruse your library.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Thanks, I hope to upload another video later. They videos do take me a while to make. The drill attachment is one of my most used tools and speeds up making components. Thanks for subscribing.

[@davedunn4285]

Steve I have learnt so much from you

[@kevinpaget4992]

Another great lathe tool idea thanks Steve.... I just finished my own....

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Kevin that's great. Thanks for watching and for your encouraging feedback. Regards Steve

[@TheoTHERON_SA]

@@SteveJordan Love the explanation of these videos!!! I couldn't help but laugh about how many times you pick up and put down the die holder towards the end of the video hehehehe

[@ronbianca1975]

Very good my friend! Your helping lots of watchers learn good practices. Happy New Year to you and all!

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Great tooling. Thanks for sharing. Make sure you have handles on all files used on a lathe or cut off the tang.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Sam, Thanks.....Yes thanks for mentioning that. I forgot to mention about the importance of having a file handle for safety. Regards Steve

[@rbmiller3346]

It is so good to watch and learn from a master of his craft. Thank you for sharing.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Very nice job on the die holders. I hope to make some for myself eventually. Keep on keeping on.

[@JoseCarlos-jc5bk]

Filme risco de fogo

[@CandidZulu]

Split a nut half way through and use it to clamp screws with.

[@boredmalcontent]

Very nice instructional video Steve, I'm going to try making this myself - keep up the good work!

[@SteveJordan]

Hi James....thanks for watching. Regards Steve

[@kwakmad91]

I have watched a lot of your videos and I really enjoy them and have picked up a lot of tips and good ideas that I'm going to copy ☺ Thank you and keep up with the uploads

[@allengentz7572]

Fantastic Steve,please keep these projects coming,much appreciated.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Allen Thanks

[@CandidZulu]

Put a witness mark with the marker pen on one chuck jaw and a dot on the piece, and it will run very true most the time when it is returned.

[@TigerCarpenter]

very nice! I'm wondering why the hole bigger than the biggest thread is only 10 mm deep. doesn't it limit the total thread length? why not all the way through or at least down to the central handle cross bar.

[@johncoops6897]

You can make it any depth you like, however the deeper you bore it the more slop will be introduced in the central shaft. That alignment is critical to getting the die dead straight with the chuck and ensuring that the threads will remain 100% parallel with the work. The start of the die is literally a spiral, so it tends to push the die slightly sideways. Once the thread starts off crooked, the threads will try to remain on that slightly incorrect angle. That results in an inaccurate thread. The central shaft (and the tap bottomed onto the internal ledge) ensures that the die is perfectly flat providing your tailstock is aligned properly. To get perfect results, the central bore should be reamed to final size rather than just drilled on a bench press. If the central bore is long, it lessens the importance of the hole diameter. Make sense?

[@daki222000]

nice pieces. isn't the through hole for the big one a little too small? cheers.

[@davidschwartz5127]

I guess you stay for till the end of the video, Steve bores the internal hole additional 10mm deeper and slightly larger than the largest die you will use. Thanks, I enjoyed and plan to make a set like yours

[@johncoops6897]

​​@@davidschwartz5127 - That"s nice, except he DID NOT bore it larger for 10mm depth. This is easily seen when he shows the finished item at the end of the video. 🙄 EDIT: In fact, just look at the very last frame at 31:12... it is right in the middle of the screen!

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great work. A must have for the lathe. Thank you for sharing

[@grahampettitt2535]

hello again have you a video on making the saddle stop? sorry forall these questions Graham

[@albertrasch4793]

Sir, Well described, illustrated, and demonstrated! Your tool post drill/tap device is marvelous. Thanks! AAR

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Albert, Thanks.

[@jankersten6212]

Nice job en good discription, but how do you clock the piece within two thou in a three jaw chuck?

[@SteveJordan]

+Jan Kersten Hi Jan Thanks, I normally just put the piece in the jaws and keep turning it in the jaws to where there is the least run-out. Then start the lathe and carefully give the work piece a tap with a soft mallet. When you hit it right it will run true. It may take several attempts but normally I can get it to within .002. I will show this in another video soon. Regards Steve

[@dalemcinnes1834]

Hi Steve I really would like to know why you did not finish threading the screw holes with your cross drill. I am sure I would have finished threading the holes that way but figure you must have a reason for not doing it that way. I would sure like to hear your comments. Thanks Dale

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Dale. I just start the thread off so it's nice and square to the work. The taps often slip in the drill chuck so it's better to finish the thread on the vice

[@shawncrocker7037]

nice vid. really liked that tool post drilling attachment. about the depth of the bore, couldn't you have just measured the width of the die and made the bore the same instead of having to go back to finish it off?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Shawn, Yes you could do it that way. I do it this way though, just to make sure I get it dead on with alignment of the screw holes. It is just a safe method of machining to get the die definitely sitting on the back face when the locking screws are tightened. If the position of the screw holes are out, even by a couple of thou, in relation to the centre of the depth of the bore, it can cause the die to lift off the back face when tightened Regards Steve

[@paulbache7917]

another great (and usefull) video, thanks Steve

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Paul, Thanks

[@tonelessdiy]

Very nice work Steve. I always enjoy watching your videos! I'll have to make a carriage stop like yours at some point, it looks very handy especially for boring operations. P.s After funding for quite a few time, I'm now a Myford owner myself. Even though it's smaller and weaker than my current Asian lathe, I'm now capable of doing parts and operations that was almost impossible with my previous lathe and what a smooth operating machine it is. Next toy should be a small milling machine and I really like the Tom Senior E-Type mill and the Emco FB-2. They fetch a lot of money but I don't want any of my main machines to be Asian made anymore. You might want to get rid of some tooling and make space for a milling machine yourself!

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Nick, Thanks. Yes I would really like a milling machine, but do not have the room. I would need a larger workshop as mine is only 10 foot by 8 foot. Did you get a Myford ML7 or Super 7 lathe? When I was doing this video I noticed my lathe was shaking a bit.....The stand wasn't strong enough. I have installed a heavy duty lathe stand this week. Also I got a second hand Myford deep tray. I will be setting it up so I can use coolant on the work. Hope to do a video on re- installing the lathe and coolant pump etc soon. Regards Steve

[@tonelessdiy]

Steve, I bought a grey S7 from a trader near Stroke-On-Trent about a couple months back. It wasn't cheap but it was a bargain considering the condition and tooling that came with it. I was funding for quite few time and it was a relief that the machine is as expected. I'm based in Athens, Greece and I couldn't have a close look to the machine hence over the last couple years I developed some skills judging condition of lathes from just photos as this was my only option. Very risky I know! 8x10 foot workshop is near perfect and there is certainly room for a small milling machine. What about the Dore-Westbury Mill? It isn't any bigger than your current Asian lathe and still is more capable of your current bench drill! Selling just those two tools will make more than enough room and funds will be enough for a nice Dore-Westbury that is now a piece of machining history and a lovely tool. I'm considering DW myself as my other options seem to be quite pricey for my budget. The dip tray and/ or raising blocks are a nice addition to any Myford. I myself don't really like the Myford stands though. My lathe is vibrating only when I switch ON the Dewhurst switch and the motor starts. I think the tension on the motor belt is not correct and/ or the motor base is not positioned correct. I'm waiting for the manuals from Myford so hopefully I'll find some info in there. If it's comfortable enough, sure do a video on the new installation of the lathe, it will be handy and there is none on youtube so far. It might take some time but you may can include some leveling info as well. P.s Buy the Dore Westbury!!!

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Nick, I have just been looking at the Dore Westbury. I've never seen one before you mentioned it. Looks like a great machine.

[@josephconnor7608]

Titanium15160ottttyrr yioiiiioo I was just the thing is the

[@bobbysipes7994]

You better get some short sleeve shirts.

[@SteveJordan]

I don't like those.

[@kimedmonds1082]

Very instructive and enjoyable video, great skills.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Kim, Thanks

[@akka4751]

hello steve, you choose aluminium for machinability reasons or cause you had it on stock? i was thinking to make it of steel but maybe i'm wrong....

[@SteveJordan]

I had the aluminium in stock but it is good quality aircraft 6082t grade. I've had this set for over 20 years now. You could make them from steel though, it's whatever you prefer. Regards Steve

[@johncoops6897]

I saw another video where the guy machined the main part from the brass cover of a normal bathroom tap (faucet). Machined beautifully and looked awesome with it's stylish shape. Plumbing fittings are a fabulous cheap source of brass that usually is of a grade for a nice surface finish!

[@joeh1940]

Do you have a video on drill post setup?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Joe, I have several videos about the tool-post drill I use on both lathes. If you type 'toolpost drill Steve jordan', they should all come up in the search. Regards Steve

[@colinwarner7762]

Hello Mr Jordan, another very good video, especially for new ones like me. As we say here in Bristol, ship shape and Bristol fashion. regards Colin U.K.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Colin.....Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve

[@paulduffey7975]

Thank you for your vid. This is something I can use. I also like the tool post drill and tapping setup.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Paul Thanks

[@davidjames1007]

Thank you for sharing, great job

[@SteveJordan]

Hi David Thanks

[@Yankeeprepperasshat]

Can someone please explain the function of the three off-center bolts going through the carriage and into the die?

[@SteveJordan]

They are to hold the die and stop them spinning in the holder. Also they are use to adjust the split dies cutting diameters a certain amount. Regards Steve

[@johncoops6897]

The outer 2 are used to prevent the die rotating, and those shouldn't be more than hand tight. The tapered one in the middle is used to adjust the die up a little. This is tightened down after you do a test cut (which should always been done with dies). Remember, you can't change the size of a nut or a tap... so if you find that the test nut is a bit loose on the newly cut threads, you wind in the center bolt into the die to spread it. A small adjustment can make a significant difference in how the resultant parts thread together. Some high quality dies have a small captive set-screw going sideways into the slot, so you can set the size permanently.

[@lacaver64]

steve I like your center drill attachment for your lathe and it can do with your hand or your electric drill good sistem ,can you mill with this attachment?

[@Wooley689]

That cross drilling rig is tops, how do you make one? What a great idea.

[@johncoops6897]

You could simply watch his other videos that show how to make them 🙄

[@hermankrijnen6409]

I saw you use a negative rake on the toolbit. Is that because that is the best way to cut aluminium or is there another reason? Would appreciate you response. By the way: another excellent performance.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Herman, The tool shank is ground so that when it sits in the tool holder it is preset in that position at the correct angle. This is how they were set in the CNC machines I used to use. They are great tools and very cheap if you get them on Ebay from China. They are the SCLCR06 type. Regards Steve

[@alexmclennan3011]

Well done! sleeves will get you!

[@SteveJordan]

Well they haven't in 40 years of machining. Its an exaggerated rule people made up over the years. There is really nothing sleeves like this could catch on on a lathe. In fact I have had more injuries from hot swarf landing on bare arms when not covered.

[@alexmclennan3011]

@@SteveJordan your right Steve its just I have a friend who can only count to eight on both hands. Cheers Alex

[@glennfelpel9785]

Good one Steve, really did enjoy this one.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Glenn, Thanks

[@TheClampetts]

What is this "silver steel" you speak of? What does that mean in American? Hot Rolled Steel? Cold Rolled Steel? Some sort of tool steel?

[@johncoops6897]

Americans would call it "drill rod". It's just hardened steel that has been ground to a close tolerance, so it's very parallel. In comparison, normal steel bar varies widely in roundness, diameter and surface finish along it's length.

[@suzannefalcoa5103]

another great video,steve keep up the great work.Ray

[@kaieteurcanada]

Why start threading with tool post jig then switch to vice to continue threading then rechuck to finish boring? seems unnecessary steps that could introduce error... no?

[@johncoops6897]

He has answered that a number of times already. The small chuck of the drilling gadget doesn't grip the tap tightly enough to prevent slipping. So he starts the threads straight in the chuck, then connects the tap handle direct to the tap to do the full thread cuts in the vice. Personally, I was going crazy watching how many times he removed the work then (edited out) rechucked + and registered it in that chuck again 😢 I would have just left the part there, slid the drilling gadget aside, and ran the tap in while it was tightly gripped in the lathe 😅

[@kaieteurcanada]

Excellent instructions...! tnx.

[@jasonburns1407]

great vid i will enjoy watching more of your stuff

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Jason....thanks for watching. Regards Steve

[@garyhall867]

Hi Great Vid, do you harden the silver steel rods or leave them soft. Good work.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Gary, Thanks for watching....No I do not harden them....Regards Steve

[@ninalli]

Your film was very helpful. Thankyou.

[@SteveJordan]

+David Leahy Hi David...Thanks for watching....Regards Steve

[@m0gga]

Another great tool video Steve, I am as I write making some die holders on my mini lathe. I notice that you have particularly good quick change tool posts on your Myford and your mini lathe, I would like to replace the tool post holder on my mini lathe so I have been looking on the RDG Tools website but I am not sure which model to order for the mini lathe, I would be most grateful if you could assist me. Also if you have any recommendations for a vertical milling slide suitable for the mini lathe , thanks.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi it is a Dixon Quickchange toolpost. If you get one that is specified for the Myford lathe it is exactly the same as the one for the Mini Lathe. Sometimes Chronos are cheaper than RDG

[@m0gga]

Thanks Steve. Do you know of a vertical slide suitable for milling on the mini lathe? Sorry to be a pain but I am new to all this, I have only had my lathe for a couple of weeks.

[@lestergrenz5002]

Great Video. Thanks.

[@davidjenner4426]

Thank you so much, much enjoyed

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing.

[@TomChame]

Very nice, thank you!!

[@saoirse1pq]

I agree with Leon below me shirt sleeves flapping to much.apart from that your videos are very good. You are or were the myford user being watching you for a long time.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Its not shirt sleeves, Its a heavy duty work jacket that wont catch on anything. Regards Steve

[@petek210]

Is the centre retaining-screw necessary?

[@albertrasch4793]

Sure, the center determines the dimensions of the thread, the outside ones lock it in place. You'll notice the die is split. the center screw wedges it apart to get the threads as tight as needed. (There's a word for that, but I just can't pull it out of my skull!) AAR

[@leondxut]

You should button up your shirt cuffs or wear short sleeved shirts. Apart from that a great job.

[@wkwong2126]

Leon Degne

[@mandibahauddinvalog5503]

Good job

[@alnaee2634]

Hi Steve Nice work . Could one press the Die into the Holder .

[@johncoops6897]

That would significantly alter the size of threads it cuts. The center bolt in the die holder is specifically designed to be wound in to spread the die open slightly. That allows you to correct for a nut that is slightly loose on your threads.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

very cool love it man , Thumbs up !

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Shawn Thanks

[@2024bear]

what cutting tool did you use?

[@SteveJordan]

It is an SCLCR06 I think its the 8mm one. You can get a nice set of them from China on Ebay or just buy the singularly. Much cheaper than buying from UK sellers!

[@antonioolivares9520]

what is the exact material of the die holder? thanks! great video btw

[@antonioolivares9520]

oh sorry it was in the final part of the video 6082-T6 :D

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Antonio, It is.....6082T medium strength aluminium. I only buy this spec now as it is used a lot in the aerospace industry and is nice to machine. Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve

[@antonioolivares9520]

Steve Jordan thanks for the info, keep up the good work :)

[@robertbeattie7689]

I like it.

[@vikitheviki]

Nice vids you make! Subd!

[@VictorHarrys]

Thanks for the advice to buy leftovers from eBay instead of new bar stock from materials suppliers

[@SteveJordan]

SOME EXCELLENT VEVOR MUST HAVE TOOLS:- shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2348661&u=3715355&m=95592&urllink=&afftrack=

[@ilafil]

Hi Mr. Jordan, that's no very good, you can not use that for long thread, the through hole is too small and that fixing (three points at the same side) does not ensure alignment for lathe works

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Ilario, You can drill them to a larger diameter for the through hole. I've been using these for over 20 years to make perfect threads for hundreds of different precision components... without any problems. Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve

[@keisermick]

It's hardly ever helpful to begin a comment with 'that's no very good' is it? Might be more appropriate to start off by thanking Steve for his VERY considerable contribution, after which you might want to offer your own suggestions.

[@sparkiekosten5902]

Was that a "Bastard" to file?........I'll see myself out now!

[@SteveJordan]

A procedure that has been used since the invention of the lathe. They also used to make file guides for metal lathes.

[@johncoops6897]

You need to take a Second Cut at that joke. It was easier not to do that work in the Mill.

[@suzannefalcoa5103]

Steve I commented ,however my wifes name appeared instead.sorry

[@fransvermeulen3287]

Amazing that people can make a video for more than 1/2 hours for a simple tool like this.Waste of time.............

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Frans. If it was a waste of time then nobody would be interested. So far today it has had 45,710 views and 404 likes, proving that all these people didn't find it a waste of time! You need to look at things like this, before commenting, otherwise people may think you don't know anything about the subject......:-)

[@fransvermeulen3287]

I do know a lot about the subject, I'm a machine worker (turning, milling, grinding) for more than 40 years.But it's like making a video about boiling an egg, and that video last for 1/2 hour. Sounds really silly doesn't

[@SteveJordan]

Perhaps you would be better off watching some Disney cartoons.....with all that knowledge you have!!!

[@TheDutchGuy110]

the fact that he elongates every sentence doesn't help either

[@SteveJordan]

TheDutchGuy110 How petty