Hand Laminate & Vacuum Bag a Simple Carbon Fibre Part (inc. Vacuum Cleaner method!)

[@asdfjkl981]

Sir. You my respect for showing us how even the biggest hillbilly can do this in his barn. I salute you.

[@dr1311]

Very nice indeed. This answered my earlier question regarding not using the resin infused method. Great work guys. Will be in touch soon.

[@chrisgenovese8188]

just started working with carbon fiber after being subbed to this channel for well over a year. your tutorials are among the best on this platform, so many thanks!

[@phillipwilkinson6436]

The addition of showing how to use simple household equipment as well as the 'professional' methods make it so much more accessible. I have just placed an order to start working on using cf to reinforce an aluminium structure!

[@easycompositestv]

Thank you Philip, that's good to hear. We are aware that most of our recent videos have been towards the more commercial end of methods and equipment and so we're making a conscious effort to 'check back in' on some of the most realistic, and still fantastically effective, basic techniques. The ones that got us into this business in the first place :)

[@mickcoomer9714]

Phillip Wilkinson. Sorry mate, you can’t use cf to strengthen aluminium. Cf can only bend about 1.8% before failing, far less than aluminium. You can use the Aluminum as shape the cf but you will need to make the cf layup strong enough to work without the aluminium. At this point the Aluminum can be ditched.

[@phillipwilkinson6436]

@@mickcoomer9714, the intention is to create a carbon fibre 'lug' to join two bonded aluminium tubes together. The idea is to get around trying to weld thinner aluminium. However I am very interested in your input before I start practicing!

[@ulbuilder]

Make sure you insulate the carbon fiber from the aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion. A layer of fiberglass between the aluminum and carbon fiber is one method to achieve this.

[@AlisterRobbie]

thanks Phillip. I'm in the same boat. As a beginner, this video has helped encourage me to take the step towards vacuum work at a cost effective level. very cool.

[@EddickC2D]

Great having you back with videos, truly educational content! Thumbs up if you want guys to create videos like "Top mistakes to avoid in composites making" or "Top X best practices for comosites making" You have already mentioned lots of things in your videos, but could be nice to gather all these dos/dont's in separate videos, cheers!

[@easycompositestv]

Great ideas. We do have some slightly similar videos in mind but I really do like the idea of both a top tips and a classic mistakes video. They're going on the list!

[@nicholasmihail9270]

Love the step by step, in depth details in your videos, im in the US and will still purchase your products because of these videos, ill be making my first order in the next week or so, thank you!

[@easycompositestv]

Ni Nicholos, thank you very much for your support. We'll continue to make these tutorials and help share the knowledge. Your support helps us to do that :)

[@brandonmendoza5233]

A lot of videos out there explaining cf but this ones are the best always, thanks :)

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Brandon.

[@peterzingler6221]

The household vacuum bag technique is awesome

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Peter :)

[@loganmarriott11]

Fantastic quality as always. Thanks for explaining what the perforated film is usually for and how you can simplify the stack slightly

[@easycompositestv]

You're welcome Logan, that's great if this information helped to make it clearer for you.

[@hippocks146]

Just ordered some bits from you guys. Been toying with the idea of making carbon / kevlar fairings for my Daytona 675, for about 5 years now. Finally going to give it go. Starting with the rear hugger... Thought it might be a good place to get a feeling for it, making something small, instead of a complete side fairing. Wish me luck. I'll post some pics on your customer gallery.

[@jonathanhernandez90]

I used this method a few years back to create our college’s high altitude balloon payload and it worked wonderfully.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Jonathan, sounds like a good college project!

[@jonathanhernandez90]

Easy Composites Ltd Thank you, it was great experience. Now our college team is looking to be the first student lead team to engineer a liquid propelled rocket to 100 Km🚀

[@YootubeUK]

Impressive! Even more impressive to get that finish with a wet lay-up and 'enry the Hoover with vaccum bags!

[@robertpaterson3646]

I've been looking forward to this video since you mentioned it! I've recently made a few parts for my motorbikes. I made some great fibreglass moulds but ended up with lots of voids as they weren't bagged. Ended up getting acceptable results by skinning the original parts and releasing them. I had been contemplating using a JML-type of duvet stuffing bag for a wee while now so looks like I've no excuse now...especially since I've got a square metre of your resin bound 2x2 cloth in my garage ;)

[@easycompositestv]

Good stuff Robert; yes, give it a go; although not 100% perfect this process is very reliable at getting you 95% of the way there and producing some very acceptable parts for most applications.

[@markussmith3135]

I'm just waiting on some room to get started iv got a hand full of projects I want to have a go at and seem possible after watching most of the videos you put up 👌

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Markus, thanks for the comment, that's great to hear. We look forward to hearing how you get on.

[@rohanpuri1989]

Thanks for your detailed videos. Please do a video on split mold infusion as well.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Rohan, yes, that's definitely on the list.

[@rohanpuri1989]

Easy Composites Ltd been waiting for a long time

[@C-M-E]

With your wealth of knowledge and great products, I'm surprised you guys haven't jumped on the silicone jacket method of vacuum bagging for production environments.

[@easycompositestv]

We know the process well enough (we used to make parts in production volumes ourselves) but but, to be honest, it's quite rare you'll see reusable moulded silicone vacuum bags used in production. The are a number of reasons - probably a bit dull to go into - but the end result is that they're only the answer in quite specific situations and certainly none of the situations we've covered so far.

[@C-M-E]

@@easycompositestv That's a fair and realistic answer. I'm looking at it for a complicated multi-step process that may eventually conclude with either a hydraulic press or sandcasting a mold for composites on a prototype level with aspirations of larger production. It might be the only way I'm able to copy some very tight geometry of components I have now that would cost an absolute fortune to have machined again in stainless or inconel.

[@payton6213]

I work with fiberglass and the processes are quite similar but carbon fiber seems to be much more precise and delicate. It's an interesting process. I'd love to learn more about the resins you use

[@ashishbeniwal3660]

I always find your videos to be very informative and educative. So thanks and keep making good videos like this. :)

[@AussieBassplayer]

This channel is great, so much info

[@easycompositestv]

Glad you enjoyed Cameron!

[@dwaynemcallister7231]

This was very good information for me, thank you. I unfortunately found out that peel ply and max vacuum will leave it dry just before watching this. Doing a thin glass PVC core sandwich repair.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Dwayne, mmm, yes, it sounds like you've found out the hard way. We've been there ourselves.

[@sergiocantoli5783]

Really appreciated all the videos you guys have done so far!

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Sergio, it's great you're enjoying them :)

[@ryanhines719]

Love this stuff! Can’t wait to be able to try this myself!

[@easycompositestv]

Well, give it a go Ryan! We've tried to re-connect with some more accessible methods; hopefully you can see that you can still get good results from even a relatively low cost and straight forward process.

[@jimfarey]

You linked this video for me from another video on resin infusion. Thanks, top banana, might have to try this on my next project!

[@easycompositestv]

Cheers Jim, glad it was up your street.

[@jimfarey]

@@easycompositestv I don't know if you can go into any detail here, but when you have complex shapes to lay up around, is it ok to have very messy lay up so long as lots of fibres overlap, you get angles between fibres if using unidirectional fibre, and you apply some pressure to turn the mess I to one functional unit? I'm trying to avoid the bolt on areas of my cycling shoes, but carbon sheets aren't very easy to stencil holes into I've found... No worries if this is too specific. If you are interested in doing a case study on micro reinforcement, I can send you some pics.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Jim, yes, you can do this and there wouldn't be much detriment structurally. Probably the closest thing you can see to this in our tutorials would be the laying up of UD carbon around some of the hard-points in our bike frame tutorial. I know the prepreg process is quite different but the principles are the same. Sometimes, you just need to do what you can in terms of reinforcement around complex shapes.

[@jimfarey]

@@easycompositestv thanks ever so much! I'll check it out!

[@matthieuabr4756]

A first coat of clear gel coat will help to avoid pin holes or a first layer of 50g satin finish will do the job as well.

[@easycompositestv]

Mmmm, I know where you're coming from. Gelcoat is a bit of a funny one on an epoxy part; do you use an epoxy gelcoat (lots of issues with that) or an epoxy compatible polyester gel (some issues and certainly some extra complexity with that). A lighter fabric can help but, in our experience at least, still won't be 100% perfect and, of course, will have a different appearance (most likely) to what you wanted.

[@matthieuabr4756]

@@easycompositestv , I use an epoxy gel coat, you can spray it or with the use of a brush, leave it until it's tacky and not sticky and then just lay up your carbon sheet as usual.

[@IngeBall]

An in depth tutorial regarding UD would be nice. How to build layers for strength in different applications and so forth. The bikeframe briefly touched the subject. And a racecar wingbuild would be awesome!

[@easycompositestv]

A race car wing will definitely be happening in the future, this is one of the tutorials we're most keen to do and we would use it as an opportunity to cover UD reinforcement and fibre alignment in more detail.

[@IngeBall]

@@easycompositestv Can't wait ☺

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

even if i know how to make parts like this i like to watch how u do it because it look awesome every time :D

[@easycompositestv]

Thank you Sebastian.

[@neelbien]

For small reasonably flat parts can also use a food vaccuum sealer.

[@easycompositestv]

Not tried it but if you can achieve the right level of vacuum it may potentially work - assuming there are no other issues related to the sealer use.

[@kumarpatil6161]

Good work

[@tridave294]

Peelply can use to cover carbon fibre

[@GermanJohnQ]

hello. i've learned a lot of your videos. i myself laminate car parts with carbon. Could you do a video for example from a car interior part like you're laminated or using vacuum?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi John, thanks for your comment. We have a lot of different tutorials already planned but the idea of laminating some vehicle interior trim is a good one and we'll certainly add this to the list. The tricky bits (as you can guess) are usually the clips to fit them in place.

[@GermanJohnQ]

Easy Composites Ltd thanks 🙏🏻 my friend :)))

[@davidwang1156]

Thank you for sharing

[@easycompositestv]

You’re welcome David 👍

[@bobbg9041]

Well as far as cloth. You could use speaker grill cloth, if your making speaker pods for a car audio system. I've used trunk carpet and fiberglass resen problem is it wasnt using a mold and requires a lot of finnish work. So I'm going to have to look how to make the molds.

[@easycompositestv]

They are not particularly stiff fabrics so it depends what your aim is.

[@marconavarro5824]

Chingon video gracias por tu trabajo saludo 👍👍👍✌

[@antonioss6912]

Good morning, congratulations for the contents, I was wondering how long the vacuum pump must be connected before detaching it, also to prevent the piece from drying out too much

[@easycompositestv]

Because a typical vacuum cleaner will only generate around 30% vacuum, there isn't really much danger of a vacuum cleaner drying out the laminate in a vacuum bagging application but most vacuum cleaners won't be happy running for any long period of time (especially fully restricted) and so - providing you've got a fully sealed bag - you should be safe to switch off the vacuum cleaner a few minutes after the bag feels like it reaches full tightness.

[@AuroraCypher]

Hello Ive seen people working with carbon fibre on model airplanes and they did not use the vaccuum method, and it looks very good. Can you tell me what's the difference between these 2 methods ?

[@alexandermikoyan9171]

Hello and thank you for your tutorials! I have a question: why you use only 20% of vacuum in this project? Thank you.

[@easycompositestv]

It's to get the best surface finish. We've done really comprehensive testing, producing several hundred laminate samples; each sample using a different level of vacuum, different resin ratio and different vacuum stack (perf, non-perf, breather, no breather, mesh, no mesh, peel-ply, no peel-ply etc.) and in all that testing, this combination of vacuum level and vacuum bagging consumables gave the best results.

[@millerchassis6119]

So why do you turn the pump off when it’s resin infused?

[@CorvetteCarCraft]

@@millerchassis6119 Because the bag is well insulated, so it can keep the 0.2 bar vacuum steady without the pump being active.. I guess?

[@robhart3531]

Thanks for the nice video! I think you explain it really good! I like it that you also show that it can be done with a vacuumbag for clothing, I use them too if the part fits in the bag. I have a question regarding mixing up resin, specificly the amount. In relation to a wet layup. You say in this video that you used the same weight of resin (+ a bit extra) as the weight of carbonfiber. Does this also apply for glassfiber and different weaves/weight of other types of laminate?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Rob, yes, a good rule of thumb for resin quantity is that it will equal the reinforcement weight, pretty much regardless of the reinforcement type. So, this would apply to glass, carbon, hybrids and most other conventional reinforcements. It's not exact but it's certainly close enough.

[@christinepaniamogan6674]

Is it same durable for the vaccume cleaner and vaccume pump sir?

[@aoi-qy3yj]

I have a quick question. What should I do when I have small and complex stuff like paddle shifters, but I also want to use vacuum bag to wrap the carbon fiber without having wrinkles?

[@easycompositestv]

The wrinkles would only be on the reverse if you skip using a peel ply. Peel Ply will give an even stippled finish the same texture as the peel ply itself.

[@dannyaustin84]

carbon kevlar hydrid..... wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow!!!! heading to website! Just need to figure out what to do with it.

[@luqmancrimez95]

Can you make a tutorial on how to make carbon fibre motorcycle mudguards. Im sure most bikers would want that🙂

[@easycompositestv]

That might be one for the future but the actual techniques and process involved in making a carbon fibre motorcycle mudguard (or 'hugger') would be just the same as the process we've covered in other tutorials (pattern making, mould making then a choice of laminating method - wet lay, resin infusion or prepreg).

[@stevesloan6775]

Snip and pull the toe... That’s what little boys are made of... Slugs and Snail and puppy dog tails. 😂😂🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀

[@dejanradivojevic8660]

What vacuum would be required for a larger part like kayaks?

[@grasthube]

so what are these pieces used for? machinery?

[@easycompositestv]

Mountain bike frame guard.

[@plproductions8887]

Could this method be used to make an rc buggy chassis roughly 2mm think? If so how would I measure the thickness? (Completely new to this)

[@easycompositestv]

Thickness is down to the number of layers and thickness of the cloth.

[@JohnnyBlaze435]

If using this technique for Carbon skinning instead for tricky parts to lay down, would you use the peel ply and breathe cloth inside the bag as well?

[@easycompositestv]

Using a vacuum bagging process for skinning tends not to be something that helps much and instead can cause a new set of problems, mainly creases and wrinkles from the bag, which mean the overall result is unlikely to be better than skinning without the vacuum. That said, if you wanted to experiment then most likely you would use an unperforated release film, then breather, then bag.

[@jamoneburnett7428]

Let's say you made two halves using this method. Is it possible to turn those two halves into one piece AFTER vacuuming? This is the only thing holding me back from attempting to do this

[@easycompositestv]

Its quite common to make parts in 2 halves then bond them together. You can create a "joggle" joint to overlap, or laminate tape over the join to give a strong joint between the 2 halves.

[@jamoneburnett7428]

@@easycompositestv do you have a video displaying this?

[@City__Walker]

i so understand, it made without using a furnace?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi, yes, this process is conventional hand lamination of carbon fibre using an epoxy resin which cures at room temperature so no oven is required to cure the resin.

[@nevillecreativitymentor]

I so needed this video. Do you ship/supply to India?

[@easycompositestv]

We can send non-hazardous materials to India, no problem. Sending hazardous/dangerous goods to India is very complicated and difficult. On our website, you can purchase non-hazardous products and choose India as your delivery country.

[@jadekingofficial]

As always great video,will you touch on forged carbon at some point? would like to see how you guys approach it.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, some 'forged carbon' type projects are in the pipeline already :)

[@Trip-in-eat]

What if you only put release agent on the vacuum bag without putting peel ply?

[@easycompositestv]

You would get a rough but glossy finish which would need creases and lines of resin sanding flat. The peel ply finish does not need any finishing.

[@Trip-in-eat]

@@easycompositestv even on a skinning process?

[@casinogeno1]

My connector always seems to leak. The pin that seals it pierces the bag. Suggestions on a better connector?

[@easycompositestv]

Well, I'm not sure what connector you're using but you could certainly use one of our TBC2 Through Bag Connectors: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/vacuum-equipment-and-supplies/vacuum-accessories/through-bag-connector_2.html

[@lamontcranston8181]

I was wondering if you guys would be willing to do a video on how to make a sandwich panel with a thicker (say 1/2” thick with a 1/2” cell size) core material? I’m very curious to see how you avoid filling all of the holes in the honeycomb with epoxy. Assuming that’s something you would want to avoid when working with an aluminum core, correct? Also, how would that panel be made if the design calls for a curve/bend?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Lamont, to combine conventional honeycomb cores (aluminium or Nomex for example) with a resin infusion process you need to use a 3-shot process, one resin infusion for the outer skin, one resin infusion for the inner skin and then a third process to bond the inner skin and the outer skin to the core material, which can be done using either a resin film/vacuum bag/oven cure or a cold-cure bonding system like Permabond's ET538. Honeycombs can naturally handle a degree of curvature but as the radius tightens you would generally need to use a special version of the honeycomb that's designed for curves (sometimes knows as over-expanded honeycomb).

[@wellreally831]

How do you cut a kevlar (or hybrid) composite after curing to end up with clean edges? Thanks very much for these videos, like the accessible tips!

[@easycompositestv]

Assuming you mean once the parts (containing aramid/Kevlar) have cured; in which case we find a rotary disc cutter gives the best finish and to then use a brand new Stanley blade or scalpel to run back across the cut edge to remove any burring.

[@danli2419]

How do you clean your tools after using them? For example, can you clean the brush and reuse it for another project?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Dan, we would have a lidded bucket half filled with acetone. Rinse the brush in the acetone to remove the resin and then put the lid back on the acetone for next time. This acetone can be used like this hundreds of times before it starts to get contaminated with resin.

[@ubacow7109]

Why didn't you need to use a flow mesh for this process?

[@easycompositestv]

Because we’re demonstrating a conventional vacuum bagging process, not resin infusion. In conventional vacuum bagging the resin is introduced by hand (wetting out with a brush) and so no flow media is required. With resin infusion, the resin is introduced later, under vacuum, hence why the flow media is required.

[@Airwolf357]

I have a question. I am not a fan of the carbon weave pattern that shows up when finished. Is there a way to add a solid color during the making of the carbon fiber part or do you paint it when its finished.

[@easycompositestv]

You can do either. Option one is a 'gelcoat' into the mould (which is a pigmented resin-only layer) and then you just follow the same process after that. Option to, as you suggest, is to just paint the part afterwards. Both have pros and cons but either will allow you to have a solid colour part without the carbon weave pattern.

[@Airwolf357]

@@easycompositestv Thank you Ladies and Gentlemen of Easy Composites You all are very helpful kind and courteous. You all do an excellent job. Continue the good job. GOD bless you all your company and your families. Thank you again.

[@tjjohnson4953]

Is there a maximum amount of vacuum that can be used for parts with perf ply as well? These are great videos! Thank you so much!

[@easycompositestv]

Hi TJ, there's no hard-and-fast rules on this, it's more about where you want to sit on the sliding scale between surface finish and maximum fibre fraction (ratio of fibre to resin). As you increase the vacuum level you will reduce the resin ratio that's left in the finished part but you'll also start to reduce the quality of the surface finish. You can run full vacuum but we'd strongly recommend adding a perforated release film after the peel-ply and before the breather if you do, this will restrict some of the resin flow from the laminate to the breather.

[@tjjohnson4953]

Easy Composites Ltd Thanks!

[@thek1870]

two tone carbon fiber tutorial pls

[@easycompositestv]

Do you mean using the hybrid materials?

[@johnnymckissick2735]

Do you leave the pump on while the part dries?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Johnny, yes you do leave the pump on to ensure the vacuum level is maintained through the regulator. In theory with a perfectly sealed bag you could turn it off but that very much depends on your ability to do a leak test which usually is not so practical as the resin is already on the part and curing.

[@tanmayasharma3792]

Hello easy!! is this moulding kit complete with resins available for shipping to India? Thank you 😊

[@easycompositestv]

No, We cannot ship to India as the resins are classed as hazardous goods.

[@tapejaraimperator]

How would you think could I use resin infusion with 3D printed core? 3D printed core is hollow, so it must be dented in the vacuum bag unless I had sealed with something like another resin before resin infusion. Is there something suitable for that use?

[@easycompositestv]

You're right, if you try to vacuum bag over a hollow 3D printed core then you will probably crush the 3D print and so you would need to 'back-fill' it with resin. You could use any solvent free casting resin (such as a casting epoxy like our TC80 Tool Cast, or our clear deep casting resin GlassCast 50. Alternatively, if you're happy to wait whilst it cures and dries then you could (potentially) use plaster. One final option might be a removeable material such as plasticine.

[@tapejaraimperator]

@@easycompositestv Thank you for your early reply. So it is difficult to use 3D core in the finished product, isn't it? Should I make the mold first?

[@BimT5]

I bought carbon fibre and vacuum bagging kit from you. Im going to make my own intake which i 3D designed, so i got a mould (two pieces) but im figuring out how to get the two parts together, any sugesstions? (The cf parts, as im thinking its hard to fuse the parts together as im laying carbon wet).

[@easycompositestv]

You need to overlap the carbon in the mould so the join line has strength.

[@PLK123]

im going to make a carbon fibre toilet roll

[@PLK123]

i can poop at lightspeed now

[@balmorstudios5980]

do you have an exclusive distributor in the Philippines for your brand?

[@easycompositestv]

No, we don't have a distributer in the Philippines but we can ship their direct from the UK.

[@hartautosports6856]

Can you vacuum bag without peel ply or a breather bag on a wet lay up? I’m carbon skimming a badge

[@easycompositestv]

No as you need both layers, the peel to help removal of bagging stack and the breather to soak up excess resin.

[@I-PixALbI4-I]

Can you make vehicle frame and body?

[@easycompositestv]

There's not really any particular limit to what you could make using a wet-layup process, especially if combined with vacuum bagging so in theory, yes, you could make a full vehicle body and even monocoque using this process.

[@g4egk]

Once set, what is the operating temperature of these CF parts?

[@easycompositestv]

The El2 resin system can go to almost 90C with an elevated temperature post cure.

[@g4egk]

I saw 160C mentioned in another video for heat cured parts, is it the same for these room temp cured parts?

[@ROYKN6WBK]

Is this a room temp cure epoxy resin system?

[@easycompositestv]

Yes it is.

[@mdfaruq5800]

Hi, can i make the mould without using gelcoat?..meaning only use fibreglass and resin

[@easycompositestv]

Although technically you can, the mould finish will likely be poor and not very durable.

[@mdfaruq5800]

@@easycompositestv i see.. thanks for the insight.. because I'm planning to do a one off piece from existing product

[@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad]

What do you mean the vacuum needs to be around 20%?

[@easycompositestv]

The vacuum level is only 20% of full vacuum.

[@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad]

@@easycompositestv I assume 20-25 in/Hg is plenty. Is that correct?

[@easycompositestv]

That’s actually too much. For a basic vacuum bagging process, you need to limit the vacuum level otherwise the laminate can be bled dry. 20% is approx 6 inches mercury.

[@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad]

@@easycompositestv thank you for the reply. That is very helpful information

[@abj9121]

Could graphene be laminated like this too? Or it would require high pressure compression or so?

[@easycompositestv]

No, Graphene isn't remotely like carbon fibre and can't be used in this way.

[@MindDezign]

Home builds can be not as anal. Your videos are very over the top ,but well done and the best of the best. That said a home builder does not need six coats of wax and polish. The heat from the epoxy or fiberglass will melt the wax. One good heavy coat will work.6 waxing and polishing is CRAZY. This is not aero space part.or military spec.

[@rrrated]

Another great video guys. I would love to see some techniques of joining two carbon fabrics together in a mould, for example in a V pattern. Just finished my door card builds first time using the XCR resin and it is amazing. Not a single bubble in finished product without even degassing!

[@easycompositestv]

Mmmm, thanks, yes, we're trying to show 'best practice' in our videos, that's kind of the point. Heat from the epoxy melting the wax? - Yikes, if that's happening to you then you're experiencing some serious exotherm; that's definitely not right! For what it's worth, aerospace or military spec work would never use wax; they're generally using prepregs and wax would never be used as a release agent for prepregs (a chemical release would be used, as per all our other videos on prepreg laminating). Honestly, for a brand new mould 6 coats of wax, which would cost all of £0.01 and take all of about 10 mins work is a really good way to guarantee a good release. After that, you would only re-wax if the release started to get a bit grippy. This is standard practice when using wax on a new mould; who wants to risk the hard work of making the mould and the part just to cut corners, put a single wax on and get a sticker? - Not me!

[@MindDezign]

@@easycompositestv I've worked both garage and making military helicopter composites. We always used prepreg. At the garage ,I've never bothered making car parts ,waxing polishing 6 times not even three. One good coat of carnuba wax ,has always worked. Your videos are very well done and I'm happy to see your aiming for the home builder as well as the pro. Material consumption, has been on a increase in composite parts which elevate the cost of the product. Vacuum bag disposables Are good for the composite material suppliers. But it gets - getting out of reach for the small builder. Low cost vacuum pumps from harbour freight I've seen used in pro shops. And is what I use to pull a vacuum.

[@biggycarbonshopthailand3782]

ฉันมาจาก. Thailand ติดตามมาตลอดเลยได้ความรู้เยอะมากขอบคุณ​

[@easycompositestv]

ขอบคุณสำหรับความคิดเห็นของคุณ. เป็นเรื่องดีที่คุณจะสนุกกับการสอนของเรา ด้วยความปรารถนาดีจากสหราชอาณาจักร

[@pria_performance]

I always fail, the surface is never flat, there is always something missing. Is it because it uses polyester resin?

[@easycompositestv]

The flatness of the surface would not really be affected by the type of resin. Generally, you’ll get much better handling and performance from epoxy but the surface finish (if you’re laminating a part into a mould) will be to do with the surface of the mould.

[@pria_performance]

@@easycompositestv yes sir, thanks. I will try

[@kathleenrobertpogue6818]

you guys ship to the United States?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Kathleen, we can ship to the US, no problem in fact we ship every day and have a great customer base in the States. Smaller orders containing Dangerous Goods such as Resin and Solvents can be a little expensive, but the good news is that you can get an accurate shipping cost easily on the website, simply add items to your basket and then choose ‘United States’ on the basket page. If you have any questions though, feel free to drop us an email to [e-mail]

[@Thee_Sinner]

Using a different material for the second method makes it so we cant see any differences in the two...

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Uriah, the carbon and carbon/kevlar fabrics behave in exactly the same way. The difference that you're looking for is whether one has more 'pin-holes' on the surface than the other; I think it's quite clear to compare the quality of the surface (how many pin-holes there are) even though the two pieces use slightly different fabrics.

[@katexit721]

please¡ make a jetski carbonfiber the bottom or the top off the gejcoat replica it will be awsome¡¡

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Kat, actually, we will probably do this. We work with a great company who make carbon fibre jetskis so we hope to do a project together. Stay tuned.

[@paul-antoinehagan4795]

Great videos, would you be able to make a video about hiw to go about making carbon cycling shoes similar to those made by pro cyclist Adam Hansen?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Paul-Antoine, thanks for the suggestion, we'll keep it in mind :)

[@withheld566]

Really appreciate the inclusion of the "el cheapo" options here, that made this video far more useful to me and Id of thought a lot of others. Good work

[@SAYYAM55]

These videos are always so well produced! Thank you for making them!

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks; we certainly put a lot of effort into both the content and the production. All credit to our new video guy Kyle who's edited all of these latest tutorials.

[@abj9121]

Yeah they make any video you want on craiglist too. ☺️

[@deanpodolsky]

Easy Composites Ltd Yeah Kyle rocks but just as important is the clarity of the presentation and information, both of which you nail every time. Keep it up!

[@elkhatirielmekki9655]

Ma Ma

[@ahakim98006]

I have recently tried the vacuum storage bag with wet layup and I thought I had discovered something new. I guess not. No Nobel Prize for me :(

[@easycompositestv]

No, sorry, we were playing around with this process nearly 10 years ago and I bet we weren't the first! However, the devil is in the detail and we did do a lot of work before arriving at the best vacuum bagging stack (should we use breather, perforated film, mesh, peel-ply, not of these... etc. etc.).

[@sorte18]

The teaching is so good! Even without any projects to use this knowledge, we still enjoy watching it. Here are a few suggestions / tips to make it even better: Add the costs to the video (text is fine); show the parts being used in real applications; after it's done, test the parts that are subject to stress to show weight reduction and performance.

[@doubleT84]

Costs will change and people will complain. The video is good as is and you can find the costs easily on their website.

[@lucasmoreno5330]

Guys, I must say your vids are some of the highest execution and quality for tutorials on KZbin.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Julian :)

[@thesighbored]

Whenever you're feeling stressed, just gaze at the mesmerizing carbon fiber weave.

[@rprata23]

Congratulations for the quality and the content of the video tutorials produced by Easy Composites. They sit far beyond the shallow product promotion videos found in the internet and show your commitment to provide proper education about the use of composite materials. In the same line of your "car bonnet" tutorial, I kindly suggest the preparation of a video showing aspects related to the selection of the most appropriate materials for each different purpose. As an example, you could take a bike frame or part of a simple car chassis, showing where, why and how to use materials like uni and multidirectional carbon fiber, Kevlar, hybrid materials and how to estimate the necessary number of layers, etc. I wish you success and please keep doing this excellent job.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Ronaldo. Certainly we'd like to do some videos going into more detail on material selected and in fact we're working on a new video series right now which calls for comparing different types of coatings and different types of reinforcement (Kevlar, Innegra, Carbon, Diolen) for a particular application. These videos should be coming out in about a month and then we'll also try to include more on this in the future too.

[@andikhafiber]

Great tips Salam from indonesia🙏🏻

[@denisbassom172]

The more I watch your videos, the easier it looks! Getting very close to giving a starter kit a go! Thanks.

[@easycompositestv]

Haha, it must be time by now Denis; take the plunge.

[@millerchassis6119]

Give it a go Dennis I’m not very good at it But it’s like a challenge And I enjoy the excitement when you take it out of the mold (It’s usually got imperfections :( One day I’ll do a perfect carbon fibre job one day Came really close the other day

[@betarr80]

beautiful tutorial, as always! if i want a gloss and clear finish on it what you suggest? sand it 120/240 grit and another coat of laminating resin? or xcr resin? thanks

[@easycompositestv]

you could put another layer of resin or lacquer it.

[@betarr80]

@@easycompositestv without sanding? Directly on parts a resin like xcr for more uv protection is Good?

[@truth7416]

Nicely done. Just want to say your production quality of your video and audio could not be better. Excellent lighting and a killer looking set. keep them coming. Perhaps a video on an aluminum mold using an expanding silicone insert. This gives perfect surface parts.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for the comments. Yes, we'd like to do something on pressure moulding with silicone in the future, it's on the 'to-do' list!

[@Corbinworks]

The issue I have is finding someone that can do the scan in a 3D print of the mold that I'm trying to reproduce

[@vadominiqueenpunkt6589]

You dont bake all your parts?

[@SavageTosh]

You need to make a carbon fibre lightsabre, Obi wan.

[@easycompositestv]

Unfortunately the excess heat produced by the kyber crystal when creating the plasma blade would be higher than most carbon fibre resin systems can withstand.

[@conradcasebolt2391]

This is an excellent video. Thanks.

[@angus3963]

Thank you for the vacuum cleaner demo, this is great for first timers, myself included!

[@easycompositestv]

That's great Angus, we certainly want to help people starting out just as much as those pushing the boundaries. Good luck with it.

[@BMSWEB]

Man I really wish you guys shipped to Australia

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, I'm really sorry that Australia is so difficult for us to reach, well, for dangerous goods at least. Maybe one day we'll have a better way to support customers over in Australia; we do have some great customers and friends of the company over there but the shipping side of things is pretty challenging.

[@BMSWEB]

@@easycompositestv well for what it's worth I share your videos with our UK friends all the time. Would love to spend our money with you guys as specially because of the amazing content you make. By far the best videos on Composite layups 👍

[@Pushyhog]

buy mavcoat release agent.

[@azimpetra]

Could you show how to properly align the first layer to match the patterns? Or is that only possible with prepreg? Example: The chevron shape on the seams. Like some super cars have.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Azim, generally this is only done using prepreg. There is the possibility to do it using dry fabric but you would need to be using a stabilised fabric such as our ProFinish carbon fibre; it has a binder which holds it together and allows neat cuts and joins (similar to prepreg) to be achieved. Maybe one for a future video.

[@jiiie12]

mantapp sangat membantu

[@HensenCars]

Great video as always! I've also just done a video for wet lay carbon and also chopped/forged style too. Can't wait to try Vac bagging soon

[@easycompositestv]

Great stuff, looking forward to seeing that video. We have some chopped/forge carbon projects in the pipeline as well.