Edelbrock Carb Tuning Springs and Squirters

Another good video on a misunderstood part of the tuning process and one that gets over looked. Step up springs and squirters/nozzles. Don't over look these as part of a complete tuning process! Edelbrock carbs are not difficult to tune, so watch this video for a little knowledge on this important part of the tuning process!
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#edelbrock #tuning #carburetor

[@KP-qh8je]

I'm not even 9 minutes in and I already see that this is the most valuable video I've seen on tuning my carburetaor

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I try to be very through with my tech videos so you have all the info to make the right choices and WHY they are right for what you’re working on. Appreciate your comment and thanks for watching!

[@triumph928]

I've always stayed away from Edelbrock carbs because I could never get them to run very good. After watching your videos, I understand why. Thank you for taking the time in making these, Edelbrock, videos. Now I have a much clearer understanding of how they work and how to adjust them. Have always ran Holleys in the past. In the process of building a 383 stroker and may go with Edelbrock for my carb on this build. Thanks again. Subscribed.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

They aren’t overly complicated, but there has always been more general knowledge about holleys. Edelbrock carbs have a place, just like holleys have a place. Edelbrock carbs own the street for the thousands of guys who enjoy those fun cruisers and some mild performance applications. If it’s all out, drag racing performance you’re not going to beat a holley. I’m glad you enjoyed the video! I have a few on these abs if you get stuck with anything you might find one of those videos useful. All the best on your build!

[@trifivegarage8683]

Great video as always! With your help over the last year. Ive really learned a lot from you. The more I learn thru trial and error. The more what your saying makes complete sense. The spring timing was crucial to getting my 1406 part throttle just the way I like it. Starting from the Plain and working down to the yellow spring. I could feel when the PE/springs would lift. Bringing in the PE I ended up with the pink springs. For my slightly warmed over 350. 👌Thanks!!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Glad you got it sorted! Tuning isn’t hard, but so few people actually do it. What you get for your efforts make it all worth it though. Thank you!

[@Zergrush66]

As usual, informative. I have learned my most valuable carburetor information from you, and I have the confidence to tune and rebuild a carb now. Thank you very much sir !

[@scottbrown321]

thanks! great job. Maybe a little more about what problem you are experiencing, and then what the first second and third thing to do, to possibly fix it. Ex, not much throttle increase when passing at higher speed.

[@alexserend7024]

Great video, I bought a kit to freshen up my 1406 carb because I didn’t know how long it had been in there and it looked pretty dirty inside. Previous owner connected the pcv valve on the back side and the secondaries were full of what looked like soot. I cleaned it very well and installed all new floats and gasket and ran the carb and it actually ran a lot better on the secondary jets now but developed a stumble off idle. Will have to look into how much vaccum it’s pulling on idle and maybe change the springs. You make some of the best videos I’ve seen. I’ve subscribed today! Thanks for what you do

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thanks for the kind words. It’s comments like yours that make the effort it takes to put these videos together worth it. Off idle stumble can be a number of things. Good plan to verify the vacuum so you can get the step up springs dialed in. Make sure the floats are set right and you don’t have too much fuel pressure going to the carb. Keep on tuning!

[@robertmanera2676]

Okay thanks for your input. I should mention that the carburetor is a 750 CFM installed on a 1989 454 MerCruiser with an Edelbrock performer intake, and stock cam. It's a little large for that engine, but the idea is to help it breathe. Typically, the engine is throttled to near wide, or wide open (4600 RPM) to get it on plane, and then throttled back to 75% - 80% (3450 - 3680 RPMs) for cruise. So, I'll check, but I think I'm safe to assume the secondaries are open at cruise. It's a good thing to know, so I'll check it out. There are no running issues. I'm just trying to find the optimal air fuel ratio. I'd love to install an AFR, but there's no through put to the exhaust gases for the probe in the cast iron manifolds which have water-cooling galleries in them. Bummer. I'll mull over my next step, but I'm inclined to go one stage lean on the secondaries since I'm probably running with them open at cruise. I'm on stage two lean on the primaries, so as always, I'll keep an eye on the plugs. I may have to go to stage one on the primaries. Cheers!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Sounds like a solid plan. Best of luck!

[@leosbasebybase7557]

Thank you for making and sharing this video. I’m doing a rebuild to my carburetor and I was wondering how or what springs are used for what. And your video right here goes right into detail thank you very much.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Nice! I’m glad you found it useful!

[@arthurmoore1524]

Honestly, Edelbrock should PAY YOU. you've made so many people not throw the Edel-junk in the trash and go to holley.. Like seriously., they could sponsor you on the shear volume of content you have on their products, not even how much you know. It's like any kinda question I have about my Edelbrock can be answered by searching through your content. Thank you so much!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thank you. Part of doing the Edelbrock carb content was just to try and change some of the misconceptions of what that product is and isn’t. There’s millions of those carbs in service and most are happy with what they do. There is no best carburetor on the market. It’s all situational. That’s been the goal with this content. Get a few more folks to understand the situations which the Edelbrock carburetor shines.

[@rickdaenell9110]

Thank you sir,so many questions answered!!!!!!!!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Glad it was helpful!

[@joelraffensberger7611]

Subscribed today, thank you for a great video. Im working on 73 mustang with mild 302 with Edelbrock1406, new carb with that stumble off of idle. Im getting both kits. Thanks again !!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Have lots of tuning videos. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions along the way. Always happy to help where I can!

[@yafois988]

Have a AVS2 with a small flat spot when I hit medium acceleration. After watching this I realized there is no way around it, just get the nozzle & spring-rod-jet kit and do it right. Makes total sense to each carb has its own characteristics, so I'm order these now as I type.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yup. That’s tuning. You’ll always end up working it to match your application. All good. It’s just part of the process! Enjoy it!

[@sniperpronerfmods9811]

great video brother

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thanks!

[@ericvitelli7113]

Very good info , Thanks! I got a kit finally for my 1406- I got a set from pep boys on line that had been opened and missing parts.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Happens. People are horrible. They’ll buy a kit and steal what they need and return it. You have two options. Return it, or get in touch with Edelbrock and let them know what you’re missing and they’ll send it to you at no charge.

[@Wraithsong]

ty for the link to the vac gague. couldnt beleive my ears when i walked into an auto zone and asked to buy one and they didnt even know what they were used for. asked me if i wanted a computer and i laughed. the truck doesnt have one. it has solid state ignition but no computer. its a 76

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Painful isn’t it? 🤣 I asked for five foot of 3/8 fuel line and I got a blank stare back.

[@davepersonal9082]

Hey MCS - This video is great, thanks! I have been able to figure out the springs/rods etc "mostly" as far as how it responds to throttle but I STILL cannot get this engine to idle right. Was thinking of dumping the Eddy 650 on it now for a Holley. But I saw this video and it makes me not want to give up yet. Been trying to tune this thing for years. Recently rebuilt/cleaned it and that helped some but still fighting the idle. Chrysler 318, J heads, stock style electronic ignition and distributor, plugs and wires good.... It has an unknown "purple" cam in it...Mopar's performance/race series camshafts back in the day. I don't know the duration/lift as it was in the engine when I got it.....but I know it only has like 4-5 in HG of vacuum at 750 idle. FAST idle (1200 ish), maybe 10 in HG. I have the lightest springs (blue) in there now. And responsiveness is good. But still, I cannot find the sweet spot for idle when in drive or even park sometimes. Right now if I rev it up it will idle too high...around 1300 rpm or so.....almost like the throttle is binding open but it NOT....drive it for a while and come to a light, she will stall in drive unless I bump to neutral and rev it, then she idles high again until I shift into drive...then try and idle like that and she will stall. A vicious cycle! I have an aftermarket (TCI Breakaway) 2400 stall convertor in it...prior to this, with the stock convertor I couldn't get it to idle at ALL... I know it is idling too high because the idle stop screw is too far in and so the transfer slots are way exposed... but if I wind it out she stalls in park. LOSING MY MIND!!!! Any ideas?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

More initial timing. Those old mopar “purple” cams are a pain. Great for back in the day with big compression and leaded fuel. Today, not so much. That vacuum is horrible! Wow. Part of what you’ll fight for sure. There’s not enough signal for the carb to feed fuel. Throw a little more initial timing at it. Sounds like you’ve done everything else right. If you don’t have a regulator, now is a good time to get one. I have a how to set up a muscle car fuel system video that you might find useful.

[@masonwang1495]

thank you, bored out a wcfb manifold to accept a AFB i'e 1406, and the off idle is stumbling real bad, almost not driveable, possible cured a intake gasket vacuum leak, so maybe i got more vacuum now, so thanks for the springs explanation, will try that to see what happens

[@FernandoMartinez-zd9ip]

Great video . Very detailed . Feel more comfortable working with the carburetor . Mild 350 is rich I believe bogs down on 3rd gear

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Start with the tuning chart and take some fuel out in the power mode if that’s when you’re experiencing the issue.

[@FernandoMartinez-zd9ip]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Did just the rods and wow what a difference can actually feel it accelerate now

[@robertmanera2676]

Another great video. I prefer yours over Edelbrock videos. So much more information. I talked to you earlier today about trying to de-carbon the back two plugs with a secondary jet change. Thanks for the feedback. Do you have a video that covers secondary jet changes with more background information? It appears that secondary changes are rare. I would think that one would follow suit with secondary changes to match up with the primary changes. I guess that's not so. Want would warrant a secondary change over a primary, or both to be changed?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

It’s pretty common to change the secondary jets. Just depends on the engine and how the vehicle is driven. Engine rpm will dictate when the secondaries start to meter fuel. Adjustments are simple on the secondary side as it’s just a jet change and there are just a couple steps on the calibration chart. Can go both ways here. If you have some stumbling or not smooth transition when going to WOT, say onto a highway on ramp, without an AFR it’s just a guess. Most instantly go richer. Make that adjustment and go drive it. Get better? Get worse? Then adjust accordingly. Typically though primary and secondary changes are made independently. I may have made mention earlier that I have more on vehicle tuning videos coming soon. We’ll for sure cover secondary adjustments. Stay tuned!

[@jsherman385]

Awesome information in your videos. We have a 650 avs 2 on a .40 over 318 with a mild cam that sits in a W150. Cruising speed to highway speed the afr is right where I want it ( 13 to 14 ish). Idle is around high twelve to thirteen with around 14 inches vacuum. My problem is in fourth gear on the flat around 30 mph with the throttle barely cracked open it runs rich....11 to 12 on the afr....what are your thoughts?...btw we are 50 miles north of Denver

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What is your timing set at?

[@jsherman385]

@@MuscleCarSolutions 11 degrees initial

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@jsherman385 oof. Not enough for your elevation. I did a video on this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/omjJeGmbgt2pa6M

[@hankfink]

Thanks for the video! I have 15 hg at idle so I went up to the pink spring. I've put about 25 miles on a new build 302 and the oil filter smelled like fuel. Running too rich? New out of the box AVS2 650 CFM

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yes. Way too rich. For sure it needs to be tuned. Check out my other tuning videos. Especially the Ultimate Tuning Guide. If you're working with a stock 302, you're likely over carbureted. I would have gone with the 500 CFM carb. If you have an aftermarket intake, cam, headers, more compression, then you're probably ok with the 650.

[@justinlee5298]

Thanks for the great video! How do you decide which size squirter to use?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

It’s just a tuning point. If you need to slow down or speed up the shot going into the engine, the nozzles/squirters are where you go. I did a video on the just the nozzles and what the numbers actually mean that you might find helpful. You can watch that here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3WXi5pnaaieiq8

[@cryptofornubes6881]

Awesome vid thanks!

[@woodysummers8618]

I’m using a 4 hole black polymer spacer & 4 hole gasket between carb & spacer, would that cut off vacuum to my metering rods & jets? Didn’t realize vacuum came from the base plate. Looks like it has channel going to secondary holes, is that enough or do I need to have open gasket & or modify my spacer for this vacuum? Thanks

[@DarthMayers]

Great info super helpful bud 😎

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thank you!

[@diggs002]

live tuning!! just in time!

[@pbrezzy8157]

I have a edelbrock 1405 carb with a 28 squirter, I'm looking for a bigger on for more initial fuel, what do you recommend? I can't really find a part number

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Squirter change doesn’t affect the volume. Only how quick or how slow it’s delivered. If you have the 1405, move the pump linkage to the top hole (closest to the pivot or point).

[@jeffbrevelle2095]

Did you mean to say in gear wt the brakes on for the vacuum reading?. Not gonna be much different between park and neutral.

[@prokopiosdavos8286]

If I’m getting too much fuel at idle witch spring do I use

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

That’s many steps down the road. You need to determine why you’re getting much fuel. What’s your regulator set to? What are your floats set at? Watch my flooding video for some additional tips. What is your idle rpm? What is your timing set to?

[@MrGene95]

So if I am getting 20 lbs of vaccum- I would need the largest spring correct?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

The plain silver springs, yes.

[@thedobermangang3503]

got question for you ....i just rebuild my chevy 350 1990 k5 blazer i converted it over from tbi to carb ..i did a few up grade on the engine high performance intake headers 3' pipes all way back up graded the cam to a howard rattler cam 525 intake lift 535 exhaust duration 227/235 lobe separation 109 center line 103 i still the same factory heads on there i believe they the swirl port heads ..i no i should have went with some better heads but the engine was already done. i put a brand new 1406 edelbrock carb on it right out the box every sence i put that carb on there i been using alot of fuel i set the carb best as posible ..im using a awful lot of fuel just with it iding..i have my pressure regulator set at 5psi..dont no why im losing so mush fuel

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Readjust the floats lower. Check for garbage in the bowls and needle and seats.

[@slashnduffrock]

What would be your recommendation on a pre pump and post pump filter combo on a street engine running an edelbrock mechanical fuel pump.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

100 micron before pump and 40 or 10 micron after pump. I talk about this in my fuel system set up video and the ultimate tuning guide video in my Edelbrock carb tech playlist.

[@honestabe7349]

My car has 15" vacuum. My metering rods are bouncing up and down on idle and I have a rough idle. WIll the bouncing metering rods cause poor idle conditions

[@cutl00senc]

Certainly! Go with a softer spring, if you have silver springs in the meter rod assembly.

[@diggs002]

I heard to pay attention to the transfer slots, make them a square not rectangle. This make any sense to you?

[@maximuswedgie5149]

Great video. I just put a new 383 solid roller (350- 400hp ish max) in my Coronet. I went down a rabbit hole with jetting a rods. I’m almost there now with my set up but am wondering how you know if you have too light of a step up spring? I am getting 6 on my vacuum gauge from the port on the driver side, so that would mean the lightest spring 3, correct? I’m going to do what you said in this video this weekend, start with the heaviest spring and see if I can work out my off the line stumble. My first drag race is next weekend here in Colorado. It’s gonna cost me a half a second if I don’t fix this, your videos are very helpful thank you

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yes start with the blue springs. Here’s an easy way to tell if those are correct. JUST BE VERY CAREFUL. With the engine warmed up and running at idle, open loosen one of the step up spring covers. Don’t remove it completely. Loosen the screw and slide the cover off to the side. View the step up piston. Is it bouncing up and down in the bore? Then you have the wrong springs. Is it completely pulled to the bottom and holding there steady? Then you might have the right springs. Put the next size lighter in (yellow) and view the same. Buried or bouncing? That’s a good verification of your actual engine vacuum at the carb base. Now in the method in the video, I like to start heavy and go lighter as I tune. Sometimes taking that different approach will help you verify and confirm what the engine is asking for.

[@maximuswedgie5149]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you very much for the thorough answer, I will do that tomorrow for sure. Hopefully I can get this ironed out before next week and I really appreciate your help. Thanks again

[@mikeuva2273]

i have a stock 350 and vacuum is 20 at idle is the silver one ok? because there is no spring in kit that is a 10 your thoughts?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yes. Will work just fine. Make sure you give the engine a little more timing as well.

[@davidhagadorn8648]

Great video. Thank you

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thank you!

[@ivanr5436]

Regarding the squirters on an avs 2, do you happen to know of a powerblast plate from Thompson performance? Any insight if you have any experience with it.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Gimmick. Don’t waste your money.

[@ivanr5436]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you!

[@andrewayersman6923]

I am having the off idle stumble. Just as you describe. So bad it dies sometimes. Built vortec, large cam, oversized valves, etc. my vaccuum is low as you can imagine. Running an AVS2 as of a few days ago. Ordered springs. Would you say I need to go with a lighter spring? Coming from always running holleys to an edelbrock and I must say I sure am liking it! Will like it even more when I have the thing running smoother.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

The spring chart in the calibration kit will tell you what spring to use based on the engine vacuum. That’s a good place to start in your tuning process. Recheck your pressure regulator. Start at 6psi and adjust down from there. One tool that I always rely on with bigger camshafts is an AFR. It can help verify the changes you’re making with real time feedback that can be monitored at the time of the occurrence.

[@andrewayersman6923]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I ordered them. They’re arriving later today so I will start the trial and error lol I did notice that higher idling and increased vaccuum was throwing the springs all out of whack. Seems like once the springs had more vaccuum they would raise the throttle to like 2500 rpm. The stock springs are way off. I also have the secondary’s and choke to fine tune after the springs. It is far from tuned lol but thank you for the tips.

[@patrickpeterman8736]

is replacing the "squiter and the" accelerator pump spring replacement a D.I.Y. can do project&do you have to remove the carburetor?? very informative video of great help to a novice"!! I have a Edelbrock 1406 600cfm performer carb.on a 350 chevy 5.7 liter v-8 and have "OFF IDLE BOGGING AND HESITATION"?? CAUSE UNKNOWN?? thank,s PATRICK.P

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Everything I’ve done a video on can be done with basic hand tools in your driveway or garage. Springs and squirters are no exception. Plenty of things to look at to cure an off idle bog. Squirters happens to be one of those.

[@cigardock4834]

Thank you

[@777smitty4]

I just got the av2 it is flooding like crazy I haven’t changed springs yet but at idle my vacuum is low and rises with rpm that’s opposite what everyone says any advice

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What’s your fuel pressure set to? Did you put new filters on when you put the carburetor on? Have you set the floats and checked the needle and seats for trash?

[@777smitty4]

New line tank filter psi 5 but no I haven’t opened it up yet but looks like that’s next and probably a set of springs i never did that so kinda nervous!!!

[@billexusaf1542]

My squirter doesn't squirt any fuel out. It looks like it gets the gas from the accelerator pump but does not shoot any gas out when I work the accelerator rod. Therefore, my engine won't start until I pour a little gas down the throat of the carb. When the engine is shut off, or dies, you still have to pour a little gas in the carb to re start it. Any ideas?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

It’s difficult to say. Are you suggesting that it never sprays fuel or doesn’t after it’s run for awhile, shut off and you attempt to restart? If the fuel has boiled out, that’s a heat issue that’s helped with an isolator. If it never squirts fuel, then you’ll need to chase back where it’s blocked in the system.

[@billexusaf1542]

@@MuscleCarSolutions It never sprays fuel.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@billexusaf1542 so start with nozzle and work you way back. Remove the nozzle, weight and check ball and activate the throttle and see if you’re getting fuel up to the nozzle. I’d imagine there’s an obstruction in the nozzle or the pathway to the accelerator pump well. Which should be a concern also with your filters and overall cleanliness. Maybe it’s something else. Start digging and let me know what you find!

[@billexusaf1542]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I found the spray nozzle completely clogged solid. I replaced the nozzle with a new one and problem has been solved. Thank you for your help with this.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@billexusaf1542 nice! Glad it was easy to find.

[@nedfenimore8661]

Great video. I used it today to get my spring selection correct. I have a question though. My carb had the orange springs with 14 inches of vacuum. I changed to the pink springs as the chart suggests. Will this help at all with the somewhat rich exhaust issue I have - having this correct spring? Thank you

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Ned Fenimore likely not. That spring is to “step up” the fuel under load. If you’re rich at idle, it’s likely something else. Tell me about your set up. What engine, mods, what size carb, transmission?

[@nedfenimore8661]

Thank you. It runs very well actually. I have a 1406 carb - 327 engine. Mild cam. Couldn’t tell you the type as I bought my truck with it. It’s been recently tuned up with the timing set up. I didn’t do that but my friend who is experienced did so for me. He set by the initial recommended timing and for best vacuum. It’s idling at about 800 rpm. The exhaust isn’t that terrrible just a hit noticeable. The oil also smells a tad like gas but most trips are short as I don’t drive it a lot. It’s a C10s truck 1968. I actually have a 500 cfm on the way and thinking also the carb might be a little much. I also put in the stock rods and jets as they shipped and have not yet tried a different combination of those. Thank you

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Ned Fenimore fuel in the oil is never a good thing. When was the engine built? The 327s are usually difficult to get ahold of. Have you run the numbers on the engine to verify the size? Might be good to confirm that. Reason why it’s important is a mild 327 is on the edge of a 600cfm carb being too much. I’d it’s actually a 283, then it’s a little easier to know what the next steps are. Just some random thoughts. Seen that so many times over the years where an engine was sold as one thing but turned out to be another.

[@nedfenimore8661]

It was rebuilt according to the PO around 2007. I have some of the records but not a lot of parts details. The smell is fairly faint but I feel like it still is. I checked the block number before and it is 327 from 1967 manufacture. It is also I feel the original motor based on the pics I have.

[@gergatron7000]

I have a Street Demon 625 and it shares many design features with these Eddies. I was mostly impressed with it but I believe it has a couple of design issues that really shouldn't have happened. As a clean-sheet design loosely based on the ThermoQuad, Demon had the chance to use proven Holley parts (Holley owns Demon) but chose to go with dedicated parts that cannot be substituted. The only Holley parts used are secondary jets and squirters. In your experience, have you come across any issues with the accelerator pump cup seal losing its tension? I found the pump circuit had intermittent operation (sometimes yes, sometimes no) and I fixed it by packing an o-ring inside the cup seal (to force it out and seal on the pump bore) and also installing a stiffer spring behind the piston. They could have avoided this problem altogether by using the proven Holley diaphragm design. Other niggling issues like a hanging-up throttle (fixed with extra spring), and secondary air valve binding on the housing while opening (re-centred the shaft screws). Their tuning kit doesn't come with the needles or jets that I was after, so I had to solder/drill some jets down to 67 (smallest was 74). I have a feeling that the Edelbrocks are put together with a bit more care.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I’ve got limited hands on experience with the Demon. I’m familiar with its flaws and it does have many. I applaud a manufacturer looking to fill gaps in the market but this one has always missed the mark for me. Since it’s made off shore, I’m not sure how much QC is done with it gets stateside and it shows. As far as the pump goes, correct me if I’m wrong here but I was under the impression they work in the standard 4150 series holleys and the demon. At least that’s how we ordered it last time. Have they made a change to it?

[@gergatron7000]

@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for the reply mate. The Street Demon has absolutely no connection to the Holley-based Demon series of Demon Carbs, which is now owned by Holley. Street Demons came out maybe 8 years ago, when Holley had taken over the rights to Barry Grant's failed company. His Holley-based designs gained a reputation toward the end of having poor workmanship and was not backed up with good customer service, hence the reputation. That might explain why they went with the TQ design, it may have been well down the road to change anything to take Holley parts by the time it went to market. The Street Demon is based on the old Mopar (and Ford Australia) ThermoQuad design from the 70s, with some design aspects of the Q-jet thrown in. It has an optional composite body similar to a TQ and also has siamesed secondary throttle plates that they call a "goggle valve". It allows small primaries and big secondaries yet keeps with the squarebore pattern. It has some similarities with the Edelbrock AVS as they both were later evolutions of the original Carter design. However he Street Demon has most design aspects in common with the ThermoQuad except there is one piston per metering rod vs two rods sharing a central piston on the TQ. The stacked booster design is very much like the Q-jet. Most other basic things like idle screws, jets, acc pump cylinder and transfer tube are exactly in the same place as they were on the old TQ. It also looks outwardly similar in appearance, albeit smoither and less cluttered with emissions devices.

[@rgallegos27]

Can I install a Edelbrock intake and Carb on a 305? I just picked up a 73 laguna and would to have a little more power.. thank you

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Unfortunately the sub 4” bore engines will never be good in the power department. You’re going to fight a losing battle. Carb and intake won’t make a difference.

[@1badombre82]

Hi my cheap vacuum gauge is reading 20 wich seams pretty high. I put in the silver 8 springs and my off idle stumble is still very present. Watching the needles they do give a small jump up when I blip the throttle in idle. It's an edelbrock 600 in a 302 with stock mustang cam. Timing is set and fuel is just under 6psi. Should I try to find some 10 weight springs or could I try doubling up on the 5s or maybe a 5 and a 6? Any good advice for me?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What is your initial timing set to? If your idle vacuum is that high, I’m assuming this is mostly a stock 302?

[@1badombre82]

I'm pretty sure it is mostly if not completely stock. Timing is set to 10 degrees advanced before connecting vacuum advance. That's as far as I could turn my hei dist before the wires touched the heater hose on the wieand intake man. And thank you for getting back to me

[@1badombre82]

Maybe it will be helpful to add that I'm still running the stock jets that came with the carb new. Not sure what size that is or wich direction to go from there with my current engine, exhaust, & intake setup but strongly considering putting in a wideband sensor to monitor it. But any suggestions on this step-up springs issue would be greatly appreciated

[@rallyechall3827]

Very informative

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thank you!

[@Aerondighteternal]

Trying to solve an intake backfire with my 350. I think it’s a lean mixture and I need a bigger squirter. It sometimes stumbles off idle and backfires outside the intake

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I don’t know when or at what rpm this is occurring so I’ll give you some general places to start. There are a number of things it could be. I’d start with timing first. On a new engine make sure your lash is set properly. Then carburetor for the lean condition you mentioned. If it’s an off idle stumble look at changing the setting on the accelerator pump arm to see if it gets better or worse. Then you can start going on some different directions with possible fixes.

[@Aerondighteternal]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I changed the squirter to a much larger one today. First time opening a carb so it was a new experience. At least this drive I didn’t have any backfires. A bit of a stumble still, I have a kit with springs and rods coming soon that I’ll need to try. Also need to tune idle fuel screws and check timing

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@Aerondighteternal yup. Timing and carb tuning go hand in hand. Can’t do one without working on the other. Hopefully when the calibration kits there and you have the opportunity to dig deeper you’ll find the rest of the problem. Usually is like this. Little steps to get good results!

[@luisaponte9165]

Hello, I have a stock ford 302 with afr 165 cc heads, edelbrock avs 650cfm carburetor, edelbrock rpm intake, headers, and a complete cams xe274hr 224/232 duration. What type of spring should I use with this setup on my carburetor ? Thanks in advance

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Spring set up will depend on how many inches of vacuum your engine is producing. If you don’t know what that is yet, keep the ones in the carb for now and you can tune it when you get it running.

[@gregklubek6016]

Thanks for the video, I just built a 400 sbc mild cam intake and heads. and I cannot get the secondaries to kick in wihtout getting a lean spot, runs great on primary but falls on its face when secondaries open. I have the 1906-650cfm avs2 . Do you think larger sqirters would help? I already changed the springs and the metering rods and jets on primaries also put bigger jets in the secondaries

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yes larger squirters can help a lean spot. What color step up springs did you change to?

[@gregklubek6016]

Muscle Car Solutions I went with the strongest ones… I believe they were clear or silver, it runs great on primaries when I move from Cruz to power mode the AFR gauge stays in a good spot but as soon as the secondaries open the FR shoots up to 20 and it practically stalls I’m wondering if the Edelbrock just isn’t good in a high-performance situation because it doesn’t have any fuel squirting directly in the secondaries until the suction catches up… I’m about to go get a Holly double pumper LOL

[@hotrodray6802]

tighten the AVS AIR VALVE secondary adjustment spring/ balance. Its flopping open too easily. It needs to be more smoothly progressive. Think of this like a holley vacuum secondary with a too weak spring.

[@tommytheg9079]

Great video. My problem is that the step up pistons will NOT pop up during a increase in RPM. I changed springs from orange to pink still no change the piston stays down. What keeps the rod centered into the jet? Or is the travel of the rod within the length of the rod? Thanks for any help

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

How much engine vacuum do you have at idle? At cruise rpm?

[@tommytheg9079]

@@MuscleCarSolutions using the outside scale of the vacuum gauge in the green around 50 at idle. increase rpm around 35-40 +/-

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@tommytheg9079 I’d have to look at a gauge as I don’t work in cmHG but I’m guessing that’s around 15-20 in HG. Which would indicate a silver spring. Not sure why you’re would not let it travel. You can start on the base of the carb and verify the ports are clear. They are easy to identify. Triangle shaped on the outside of the four barrels. Also verify the gasket you’re using on the intake. If the gasket is blocking those ports, the rod and primary metering system won’t see any engine vacuum.

[@tommytheg9079]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for the response. Sorry for later come back. My electric fuel pump stopped working had to replace. Got to fire it up. Yes you are right at idle we are at 20 HG when I increase RPM its about 17 to 18 HG. I first thought a burr or something binding but no. I put in the hardest spring (silver) still does not pop up. All seems smooth and I can push the plunger and rod easy no binding. Going to pull carb of intake and look at things.. Thanks for help. Tom

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@tommytheg9079 sounds like a plan. I’d be curious to know what you find out. Good luck with your search!

[@curtthompson2787]

Can you show a picture of what orientation the primary and secondary booster gaskets are? I didnt make note of that. Carb doesnt want to work and need to know if that could be the case.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

They only go on one way. Just reference the holes the screws go though. They only go on one way.

[@curtthompson2787]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I'll take them off and check again but it seemed like I could've put them on one way or flipped them over. Bolt holes still wouldve lined up, everything wouldve gone through the holes in the gasket but it is slightly different from one side to the other. Thanks. I'm chasing what shows as a very lean condition but I believe its unburned fuel, so very rich. My rods and jets seem fine though I will change them. It's on a 383 sbc, 101/100 jets and 75/47 rods. Step up springs I tried orange, yellow and pink. It also idles and runs fine for about 10-15 seconds then shuts off. Tried 71/45 jet and was worse, bad idle, could smell gas more. Either way, gas on the plugs. So I will rejet smaller but the motor should be able to use that. Not a speck of dirt in the carb, everything is new inside except the pump which seems fine, other than I did change the pump gasket and main pump spring. I rebuilt tha carb, soaked in carb cleaner, chased every tiny passage with small brushes and wires and sprayed parts cleaner through them. This car ran fine with an 800cfm carb, was just too big. Ran great with my old 600 carb which I dont have. This one is to get me by until I decide on new carb or efi. Floats are a little off but not a lot, 1" drop and about 1/2" for shut off. Cant imagine this is the issue but will be changing that was well. Idle mix screws were anywhere from 1 turn out to 2 1/2 turns out. The biggest thing is I cant keep it running. I can tune once its running but wont tun long enough. Does any of this stand out as the potential issue? I did have the AFR around 13.5 - 14.5 a couple times, but again, it dies out. Worried I'm hurting the motor with all this trial and error. Distributor, plugs and wires were all fine before this, however I did check and clean my plugs twice during this, checked gap, and changed to different plugs. I'm baffled and drawing at straws.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@curtthompson2787 If you have a calibration kit, I’d start out with a leaner calibration off the tuning chart. What you have in there now isn’t extreme, but perhaps it’s one of the issues. You’ve got an odd combination of problems there. If it runs and shuts off after 10 seconds, I’d pop the top off the carb to verify what’s in the float bowls. If the fuel level is too high, then it gives you some things to look at. Fuel pressure being the big one. Adjust the regulator down. Check the needle and seats also. You mentioned finding trash/objects in the system. They came from somewhere! Back track that. If you pop the top and it’s out of fuel, then that gives another path to go down. Needle and seats and pressure again plus floats. If you’ve got raw fuel on the plugs, something is causing it to push past the system. What is your pressure regulator currently set at? What type of pump? What filters in the system?

[@curtthompson2787]

@@MuscleCarSolutions mechanical high flow fuel pump. I think its 110gph. My pressure guage is showing 6 - 6.5 psi. When I got the carb it came completely apart, soaked in carb cleaner, small brushes in every orifice/passage, then sprayed parts cleaner through every hole/passage. New needles and seats. New gaskets, pump gasket and main spring. New check ball and weight. I'll look into all of those. Thank you!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@curtthompson2787 ok. Good place to start. Let’s dial the pressure back to 5psi. Check the fuel filters you’re using to see if you have any garbage in them. Verify the float settings again and drop them down a bit. The 7/16 drill bit method works well. Do the same with a 1/2 bit. That will lower your fuel level down a bit. See if that takes away the flooding and not running for more than 10 seconds issue.

[@samconway5288]

I just put a brand new 650 AVS 2. I adjusted the mixer screws to the highest vacuum. Did a test drive according to my air fuel ratio gauge I’m running pretty damn lean at 45. And it’s surges. I can see it on the air fuel ratio gauge. So I guess I will need to go with a lighter spring? Wide-open throttle seems to be OK

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Past 1000 rpm, the idle mixture screws are bypassed. Your tuning has nothing to do with that circuit. What spring do you have in it and what’s your vacuum at idle?

[@samconway5288]

@@MuscleCarSolutions i’m running a 302 with GT 40 heads with the E cam. The carburetor has stock springs out of the box. 10 inch vacuum

[@samconway5288]

I had stumbling of idle but I move the rod to the bottom hole and it cleared that up

[@samconway5288]

Crouzon on air fuel gauge I’m at 16 to 1 to 18 to 1

[@samconway5288]

When I stab it I’m at 13 to 1

[@Tk-ou9ec]

Hello. Great video. I have a question if you don’t mind please. I have a mild Chrysler 318 with a 268h comp cam,edelbrock performer intake topped by an edelbrock 1802 500 AVS carby and also a full exhaust. Now it has been tuned and with light to half throttle it’s great but if stomp on the throttle from a take off or when cruising floor it and kick it back it to second gear it has a real bog with a low grumble noise for a few seconds before it gathers itself and gets going. But once it’s going,it really hammers along! I don’t know what jets he put in but it’s running pink step up springs and accelerator pump is in the top hole for the best squirt. Now I can’t help but wonder if I should change squirters but how can I tell if it’s them causing this so called bog? I also read going to a stiffer spring on the accelerator pump could be of an advantage too? Your thoughts appreciated.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Starts with a question. Are you getting black smoke out the back when you go to WOT or not? I’m going assume it’s a little on the lean side so these steps would go on that thinking. Start with the accelerator pump. From the factory that link should be in the middle hole or in the one furthest away from the pivot point. Move it to the hole closest to the pivot point. Does it get better? Same? Worse? That’s the easiest, cheapest thing to start with. Try that and we can work though the next steps. Also do you know what rods and jets are in the carb as it sits right now?

[@Tk-ou9ec]

@@MuscleCarSolutions yes it did feel more responsive with the accelerator pump in the top hole. I’m afraid I do not know what jets he installed but he did say that the A/F was spot on! No black smoke that I’ve seen yet with WOT.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Ok. My assumption then is you’re still a little lean. Unfortunately though it does mean you’re going to have to use the tuning chart and start over. Start with the middle calibration and move to the next point on the power mode. I just did a video on Edelbrock Carburetor Tuning Chart Explained to show how to read it. Keep trying rod/jet changes moving in the rich side. See if it gets better or worse.

[@Tk-ou9ec]

@@MuscleCarSolutions okay. Thank you

[@armygreenfj3924]

So what can cause the right side of the spring and rod stay up during idle? I noticed when i replaced my spring my left side was down and the right side was stuck on the up position during idle.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Piston stuck? Have anything blocking the port from the bottom side? Same spring color on both sides?

[@armygreenfj3924]

@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah sometimes it would get stuck..

[@armygreenfj3924]

@@MuscleCarSolutions its the same spring.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@armygreenfj3924 guess now all that’s left to to figure out why. Is this an older carb or new? Just curious of the condition. Maybe a little inspection/cleaning?

[@armygreenfj3924]

@@MuscleCarSolutions its less than 2500 miles on a rebuilt motor and new avs2.

[@bernardhorig8809]

Hi sir , my 305 ( 1979) run rich , afr is 10.5 my carb is a 600 cfm edelbrock 1405, i m buy a tuning kit and i m put the ref item to the chart number 27 what do you think and m'y vaccum is not very hight what a good color of Spring , m'y motor is stock, m'y intake is performer model . sorry for m'y poor english , i m Frenchie thx

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

The carburetor is too big. Switch to a 500.

[@bernardhorig8809]

@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks tuning carb is not enought ? Very thanks

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@bernardhorig8809 the 600 is too big for that little 305.

[@65sohc]

1965 GTO with: 406 sbc, Dart heads, moderately lopey cam with 10 hg vacuum at 850 rpm idle, Progression computerized ignition with aggressive timing, 1906 carb, 5 speed trans. When I first installed the carb off idle acceleration was sluggish with afr 15.5. I installed silver springs which cured that issue. Now when cruising at 60 mph in fifth, around 1700 rpm, afr is around 14. If I downshift to fourth at a steady 2500 rpm afr goes to about 12.8. I tried the pink spring and light throttle off idle accel was again lean, though not as bad as before. Brisker though still moderate accel off idle richens into the low 12 high 11 range. Do you have any thoughts regarding the rich condition when going from fifth to fourth, ie. going from a somewhat higher load in fifth to a lower load/higher rpm in fourth?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What other tuning have you done other than springs? Have you used the tuning chart? What did you chose? Assuming you went lean a step or two in the cruise mode.

[@65sohc]

Essentially under any sort of acceleration afr looks pretty good. As soon as I ease off the throttle to attain steady speed afr goes into the 12's.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@65sohc so…..what other tuning have you done? What number on the tuning chart are you on now?

[@65sohc]

@@MuscleCarSolutions See above.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@65sohc cool. Best of luck!

[@chestrockwell8328]

Thanks for another great video. Couple questions if you don't mind. I'm in process of building a 302 based road course/race track day car, Ford engine, non ford car. Will the Edelbrock work well in this application? Based on the standard sizing calculation CU IN. x RPM divided by 3456 I'll need from a 620 to 680 cfm and Ive read the 650 Edelbrock may actually be a bit smaller since it shares the same body as the 500cfm unit.. I haven't verified this to be correct though. Thanks.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

You may get out of the comfort zone in this carb on a road race course. Depending on how aggressive you’re turning, the primary jets can sometimes find themselves uncovered and lose fuel momentarily. Sometimes running the floats high cures this. Holleys have their own problems here as well but it’s usually the secondary jets that suffer. If I were building a road race car, I’d go with a TBI efi system that’s tunable. Otherwise on the carb side, you’ll need to get creative on each track to correct potential fuel starvation issues.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

As far as all the Edelbrock carbs go, they all share the same body in the series. Just the bore sizes are different. Outside physically they are the same.

[@chestrockwell8328]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for your quick reply. Yes, this is my main concern. Lateral G forces are around 1-1.5 Gs, Braking G's a little higher, Acceleration not high at all. I agree an EFI system would suit the situation best but I'm trying to keep costs and complexities down. I believe even modern Trans Am cars run Carburetors, or did up until not long ago; obviously those carbs are not off the shelf $300 units. If you were to have to use a carb would you go with the Edelbrock or the Holley and chase down what ever issues may come?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yup. Can have a carb set up for that hard environment that a road race/auto cross car sees. EFI has gotten cheap though. Edelbrock sells a 302 direct port injection set up that’s ridiculously cheap. By the time you do a crab set up right you’d be pretty close to this. amzn.to/36xOo0X

[@modeljetjuggernaut4864]

Good one

[@calebmichie2854]

So if I want the power to come on quicker I put a different spring in. If I want more power I can put in a smaller needle. Right?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

It’s sorta that simple but sorta not. The tuning chart will give you all you need to know on the rod and jet selection. Follow that. The step up springs will follow your engine vacuum and load. You can’t just make a spring change without first looking at how much vacuum (signal) the carburetor will see when under load and not.

[@calebmichie2854]

@@MuscleCarSolutions interesting. I've got an edelbrock on a 305. And it runs and idles fine. When I mash the gas it goes. But I feel like it's lacking a bit. It goes but I can feel the motor has more in it.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@calebmichie2854 lots of options there, even for that sub 4” bore engine. Timing and distributor advance will help. I’d tune there first until you run into detonation issues. What size carb are you using?

[@calebmichie2854]

@@MuscleCarSolutions carb is a 1406. Fuel pressure 5.5 psi. I'm still learning how to tune with the distributor though. Initially I had 8° then 10 and it did ok. I tried my hand at total advance but I'm not certain if I did it right.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@calebmichie2854 sounds like you’re on the right path! The issue is the 305. There’s only so much you’ll get out of it. The small bores don’t flow enough air, the factory heads are a choked down mess as well. You’ll struggle with it as long as you expect too much from it. Enjoy it for what it is and use it to learn more about tuning. Invaluable learning experience.

[@cjstrickland3413]

Is there any benefit to changing the springs on the accelerator pump itself?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I like the way you’re thinking but no. The spring doesn’t control volume of the shot, just the operation of the pump.

[@gergatron7000]

My comment further up highlights my experience with a similar carb, the Street Demon. I went with a stiffer spring to make the squirters spray a bit harder (was only trickling out). Beware though, making the spring too stiff can actually hold the throttle open. Ask me how I know 😊

[@jimmyjamesbbq]

Always been and Edelbrock fan. Do you have any experience with horsepower output of Edelbrock vs Holley. You always hear Holley makes quite a bit more horsepower when both are tuned correctly. Any truth to that? Great video!!!

[@jimmyjamesbbq]

Bone Head I have never seen a dyno test Holley vs Edelbrock. Yet most everyone say Holley is way better WOT. I would love to see the numbers. Is it 4 horsepower or 40 better? Odd that test is not out there!

[@jimmyjamesbbq]

Bone Head I get that. I would love to see it. My money would be close to the same if both were tuned and same CFM. I bet that AVS 2 would give that Holley DP a run for its money!!!

[@jimmyjamesbbq]

Bone Head correct CFM and AFR should be the same on both cars I would logically think. But what do I know! Just a theory. I mean the air horn removed and a few other things might effect this. Would just love to see this test before I drop a Holley on my 55 Chevy 383 (750 Edelbrock) that’s well tuned. 12.60 at 108 with 1.70 60 foot.

[@kdawg8312]

Need some guidance.... I have a 84 Cadillac eldorado that had an engine swap to an Oldmobile 307. The transmission is fwd. the engine has an edelbrock carb and computer has been deleted. I got a kit hooked up to transmission to allow tcc lockup after 40 mph. My issue is lack of power upon acceleration and especially on incline or when the engine is under load. When under load or incline it loses all power. The pedal even goes to the floor and feels the car will barely go any faster. Seems better when slowly accelerating on flat surface although still sluggish to get up to speed. I know the 307 is not a powerful engine but still feels like it's way less power and torque than it should be at stock specs. Do you have any suggestions. I replaced a few springs but that alone did not seem to fix the issue.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

K Dawg I’d look at the distributor first. What is your advance all in? What port do you have the vac advance connected to? I’m not familiar with your transmission set up. Is there a kick down mechanism? How is it actuated?

[@kdawg8312]

Muscle Car Solutions the transmission is a TH325-4l. Yes it has a cable but on this transmission the computer would activate the lock up when it went into 4th gear. That's why I had to put a kit on for lockup since the original computer was no longer controlling it.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

K Dawg I’d assume that’s a big part of the problem if it’s not kicking down.

[@portalbucket5365]

I got a 500 cfm avs2 and the a/f is good but im getting no lie, 10 mpg and with the qjet i got 17. Im due for a tune up so i hope thats my problem bc the edelbrock i would think i would get at least 15. Edit: can a bad ignition system really drop your mpg that bad?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Sure it can. What is the set up and what is your AFR at cruise?

[@portalbucket5365]

@@MuscleCarSolutions its a 4.3 vortec and idk what the afr is at cruise but besides doing afr at idle with a vacuum gauge the carb is straight out of the box

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@portalbucket5365 ah. Needs to be tuned. That’s a lot of carb for a 4.3 unless you’ve got a very healthy cam, CR and everything else to go with it. If you don’t have an AFR to help you tune, make small adjustments and drive to see if the changes made it better.

[@zambino8763]

I have a nasty bog that myself and 3 other mechanics have yet to resolve. I was recommended to swap out to a larger squirter. Problem is, they're on national back order. No one has them in stock. 😖 So, my question is...what is bigger on the squirter? The hole on the plate? The nozzle size? Or both? I'm thinking of drilling it out.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

You can drill out the full cast aluminum bodied nozzles with mostly no problem. The question is what makes you think you need a quicker shot of fuel? What is your timing set at? What other tuning steps have you taken? What hole is your accelerator pump rod in? What size carb and what engine is it on (share details of what the engine was built with).

[@zambino8763]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm thinking of drilling the bronze tubes on the stock squirter but not sure if the hole that feeds thise nozzles is bigger, or if just the nozzles are bigger (on the larger size squirters). I have a terrible bog when I punch the gas. Worse from a stand still but still bad at cruising speed. I've fought this battle for months, and have searched the internet plenty. Unfortunately, I don't have any local speed shops, nor do I know any knowledgeable hot-rod enthusiasts. Note - car runs great aside from the bog. CURRENT Specs are: 350 bored .40 over Edelbrock avs2 650 cfm Msd hei distributor and wires Aluminum heads 200cc/64cc, 2.02/1.60 w/ 3 angle port job Comp aluminum roller rockers Edelbrock performer rpm intake Mild unknown cam - supposed to be Mutha Thumpr but doesn't sound like it Full length headers and flowmaster dual exhaust 140 amp alternator and new battery 3.73 posi rear Th350c with 2200 stall 20" foose rims I can't brake torque or even get a burnout. 🤦‍♂️😭 I thought this thing would be screaming!? For the sake of ease, I will aim to note what I have and haven't tried. Bought car. 1984 Monte. Had a newly swapped 350 in it. Had a bog when I got it. Note - came with new fuel pump installed, and had original top end (Rochester carb., etc.). Sent the car to a shop and had a lot of work done. Upon getting the car back - still had the same bog. Note - went from the original Rochester carb to an eddy 650 at this point, running original distributor (ECM controlled) with msd cap and coil (to still control trans lock up). Bought a brand new Eddy 650 carb - still bogging. Swapped in a freshly rebuilt 350, bored 40 over (listed in CURRENT specs). Used all parts from "second" motor build. Note - never verified what cam was in this new engine. Mystery cam. Was told big mutha. Replaced the distributor with a GM HEI, using MSD cap and rotor - still bogging. Returned the 'new' carb and put the old one back on. No difference. Tried several different timing adjustments: 8 to 15 initial...34 to 40 total. Some better but still bog. Tried all 3 accelerator pump slots - none seemed to make much difference. Put lighter springs in distributor. Seemed to have gotten worse, if anything. Added fuel pressure regulator. Tried 5, 5.5, and 6 psi. Bent accelerator pump forward and backward - little if any improvement. Adjusted the secondary air flap in 1/4 turn increments from 0 to 5 turns (5 seemed grossly too much tension). Replaced fuel filter. Things I haven't done: Messed with fuel tank - sending unit or possible sock filter Why is my car bogging when I punch it?!?! When I attempt to brake-torque...the car will stall. 😖 I'm thinking this car should be wicked...but embarrassing when you can't even get on it. What am I missing? Or did I answer my own question regarding the fuel tank???  If it is a fuel filter or something, wouldn't it effect things other than when I am off idle and gun it? Yesterday I twore the carb apart. Cleaned it. Blew it out. Replace the accelerator pump. Put bigger jets and rods in the primary (combo 5). Set air door 2 turns. Tried 2.5 turns. Seemed to run slightly better but still bog. I'm at my wits end. Thanks for the help!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

You’ve got another issue than the carburetor here. Find out the specs on the cam and see if that converter matches up. If adding more fuel didn’t help and a timing change didn’t help and you’re stalling when you try to do a burn out, it’s not the carburetor that’s the issue. At a minimum I’d get the cam out to verify the specs and see how it was installed. Get it changed or back in (with a degree wheel to verify install) and determine if the stall is correct. Then you can start tuning things that will make a difference.

[@zambino8763]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Could I email you? I'd like to send a video or 2. I don't have a garage, so pulling the cam anytime soon is not ideal. On that note, let's call this the 3rd build. On the 2nd build, I knew what the cam was, and matched that cam to this 2200 stall. Still had the bog. The only thing I'm looking at now is the 25 gph, 4 psi fuel pump that is mounted slightly above the tank. I scavenged the internet, and people say that's fine...but Holley does say to mount the pump below for gravity feed. I'm wondering if the pump is too small as well. 🤔

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

That’s relevant info. Your pump is too small. GPH and pressure. You can send me anything on my website contact page.

[@yamahaguy1732]

So why neutral and not park

[@Strict30]

I'm feeling an slight surge on my 1406 can I help

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Need a little more info. When are you experiencing the surge? Tell me about the engine it’s on. Transmission. How you’re driving when it happens.

[@Strict30]

@@MuscleCarSolutions as I'm driving it feels a surge almost like a dead spot it's on a 350 chevy

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What cam is in the engine? Do you know how much vacuum the engine is making at idle? What transmission? It’s happening when driving? Like throttle held at one spot and the engine is surging, or from a cruise, press down hard on the gas and you get a stumble/surge? Need more info!

[@Strict30]

@@MuscleCarSolutions it's pulling 22 vacuum 700r trans and it happen at cruise

[@Strict30]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm sure it's an stock cam

[@lordsauto]

Hi there. Just got new GM crate engine 350-265 hp it has 20 hg.vac would plain be suitable. I have really no issues just smells a bit rich

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Sounds like a good choice. What carb did it come with?

[@lordsauto]

@@MuscleCarSolutions orange

[@lordsauto]

1405

[@lordsauto]

Do i check my step up springs in park or drive? i have 17 hg in park so im using the pink. Any suggestions ? Thanks

[@lordsauto]

350 chevy 600 1406

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

That’s a good amount of vacuum. I’d throw the silver spring in there and see how it drives. I like to check engine vacuum in drive.

[@lordsauto]

I have that vacuum in park i have pink. I tried silver at first seems a bit rich. I'll check in drive and go from there?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@lordsauto yup. With that much vacuum that’s where I’d start, but it’s always about how it runs and drives. If you’re happy where it’s performing with the pink springs, stay with it and keep tuning. Have you made any rod or jet changes?

[@lordsauto]

No its stock. I had a holley on it. But the edelbrock i think is way better in my opinion. Yea silver had alot of power. But again smelled rich ran fine. But I think open the power to much pink seems good. Just wanted ur professional opinion. Love ur vids