EEVblog

Review of two $100 class soldering stations.
Can the new Weller WE1010 beat the venerable Hakko FX888D?
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[@bkboggy]

I bought my FX888D about a year ago. I was feeling a bit torn about buying it, because it looked like a poorly designed toy. I almost went for a Weller station (I think that's also a decent choice based on recommendations). However, once I got the Hakko, I was blown away by its build quality and how well it works. Don't let its looks deter you from giving it a try. The aesthetic actually grew on me and I like how it looks now -- it has a certain character to it and it's an interesting talking point with anyone who's unfamiliar with Hakko. I'm a Software Engineer, so I don't mess with electronics often, but when I do, this thing does the job and does it well.

[@supersabrosinho]

Yeah that's the only thing that's keeping me from buying right. It looks like a toy that comes in happy meals 🤣😆

[@els1f]

@@supersabrosinho that is 100% what I'm going through rn😄

[@supersabrosinho]

@@els1f I went ahead and bought it. I've never worked with such an nice iron, well worth it!

[@vejymonsta3006]

Not bad. I know some software guys that use those wunhunglo 10 dollar irons on government equipment.

[@michaeldean5787]

Haha my thoughts exactly. You've convinced me and I'll get mine now

[@jamescaldwell2095]

"I haven't used this in anger yet." 😂 that's what I need to know. How tools perform when you're ready to start throwing things.

[@tingvictoriano6517]

LOL

[@mattde1976]

@Travis Ireland LOL I have 888 for 2 years not single time need to throw it 😂😂😂😂😂

[@divewizard]

The temperature sensor for the weller is in the tip. The Hakko is in the heating element, that is why the Weller take longer to apparently heat up, and why it cools down faster on your sponge test.

[@thanatosor]

So is Hakko worthy ?

[@sdiubw8943f]

"All the best stuff's made in Japan" -Marty McFly, 1955 (Back to the Future III) Love the reference Dave!

[@Penisdoll]

It was excellent

[@thefeet]

From the future 6 years in 2024. After watching this it was CLEAR the Weller was my choice. :) Personal preference. :)

[@rdbanks2823]

I’ve had my 888D since it was first released over in the U.K. and I love it, replaced an old weller that was passed down. A lot of people complain about the temp control (but I really don’t mind it, easy enough plus with presets it’s simple. The only bugs are the power switch, the forever shrinking sponge, seriously mine is the size of a 2 pence piece :/ ha and perhaps the lack of ‘stackability’ (but I can live with that for such a beauty of a design)! I am glad someone else has commented on the DIN connector, it does flap around in the breeze! Haha! I’ve had a Weller in the past and used other higher end ones and they are pretty good for the price to be fair! Plus I kind of like that colour scheme... I don’t think you’d go wrong with either to be honest, both looks great! Longevity wise, perhaps I’d look at the Weller (only down to my last one being about 15 years old) however I’m yet to have any issues with the Hakko (a lot of complaints about them burning out but perhaps it’s standby heating, I’m pretty sympathetic when it comes to tooling). Loved the review Dave!

[@stefanwilkens]

Recently picked up a WE1010 in Europe and I re-did the temperature check with a calibrated extremal recorder. I found that the Weller does get very close to the set temperature (certainly within the +/-6 deg they advertise). I could not replicate the 20 degree offset you saw. I used 60/40 to ensure good thermal coupling to the thermocouple used for measuring. You can certainly see it undulate around the set point by about 5 degrees and it tends to be on the low side of the set point - but it's fairly good for me.

[@darikdatta]

I think the Weller simply senses temperature a lot closer to the tip.

[@robertosladic3430]

Yea i think weller actually senses temp of the tip while hakko senses temp of a heater. Cuz the heater doesnt actually cool down but the tip does.

[@thefeet]

@@robertosladic3430 thermister placement and yeah... like i said above... i don't know anyone that "Speed Solders" and would buy a station in this price range. my vote is Weller!

[@zanthiel2009]

At my company, everyone was using the Weller we1010. I found a Hakko Fx888 in a closet . I set it up and love it!

[@jonstenSE]

I'll take my TS100 any day of the week! Integrated heater in the tip and heats up in seconds, sure it makes each tip very expensive ~$12, but they are high quality and dead easy to switch. Slim design, some may argue that this is a con, but I see it as a huge con as it sits very well in the hand and means it is portable (you can literally fit it among your pens in your bag!). It's powered from DC 10-24V, meaning that you can take you with you out in the field and power from a lipo, at home I use an old laptop charger. All of this for $50, I repeat $50! It doesn't come with any stand, but for the price one can by a decent stand separately. I would also recommend that you buy a good and flexible extension cable with 90 degree power jack (standard 5.5mm DC jack), the cable drapes much better and gives significant better experience!

[@happyhippr]

you really should do a thermal camera view for the heat dropping sponge test so we dont have to rely on the provided displays..

[@MatthewSuffidy]

Hakko looks like an SGI workstation.

[@VEC7ORlt]

You make SGI look bad!

[@csabasanta5696]

Wow, great observation! Now I know why I like them so much. Just take a look at the O2s ...

[@xfloodcasual8124]

@@csabasanta5696 O2 was actually a giant soldering iron in disguise

[@ianmacdonald6350]

Used Weller irons throughout most of my career in electronics, and still rate them as the best. Some guys preferred Antex but I never liked them. The cheapest route to a decent soldering setup though, is a Yihua station with a Hakko tip. ;)

[@thsinger]

I used a Weller TCP 24 for about 30 years it was never broken and still works fine. 3 Years ago I got an ERSA Pico for about 150€ and I like it very small and heat up very quickly but I don’t think it will hold as long as my Weller.

[@Audio_Simon]

Would love to see review of Ersa Icon Pico or Nano. The thing that stops be buying Hakko or Weller is the chunky soldering iron itself. I want something more delicate and pen like. I have a range of Antex fixed temp irons.

[@tookitogo]

Simon Ashton The “i-tool” irons for the icon stations are great. I have the nano. Wonderfully short distance from grip to tip, and the heating performance wipes the floor with the irons in this video.

[@DuncSargent]

Still pertinent today. I'm getting the HAKKO. Thanks for being here for me!

[@Eyem1337]

Watched the entire thing, just ordered the FX888D Good video.

[@stclairstclair]

Eyem1337, After I Bought mine, I then found videos- "real vs fake hakko 888d" I was so happy when I knew mine was genuine, so look for knock offs, and Spend the extra money when you buy the other size tips, Tests show non hakko tips gave poor performance, I'm an old mechanic and this thing changed my soldering life I LOVE it.

[@captainscottlum2371]

@@stclairstclair ditto!

[@stclairstclair]

@@captainscottlum2371 Soldering with this unit is like driving a formula 1 car next to Toyota's.

[@mirzasaj]

Hakko using since 3 years works like a champ!! Enjoyed every soldering done with it paid off already!

[@viperidaenz1]

The hakko has the temperature sensor embedded in to the ceramic element, so it's measuring the element temperature not the tip. I don't know where the weller sensor is. Perhaps you should do you thermal test with your thermal camera? Element temperature is irrelevant.

[@jarrodroberson]

FYI - The Hakko FX-888D can be had at Fry's for as little as $79 US on a regular basis. Promo code sales about every 3 months have it for $79 with a promo code you get for signing up for their email list. I got mine end of Nov one year for $69 US.

[@ShallRemainUnknown]

RIP Fry's...

[@arongooch]

Been a subscriber since the early days of around video 30 or so and have to say your channel is awesome Dave. Couldn't imagine a week go by without a good EEVBlog video. Keep up the great work. Cheers.

[@johnstone7697]

I actually ordered a WE1010 and returned it. Once I saw the familiar lousy spring stand, and the same plug on the pencil as my WES51, I realized I wasn't getting much more for my $120 for the 1010 vs the $75 I had spent on the 51, other than a digital readout . The WES51 performed well while it lasted, which wasn't very long. The pencil died after about 3 yrs of use, first with an intermittent plug, and then with a loose tip that couldn't be fully tightened down. The 1010 pencil doesn't look like it's very different, so I wouldn't expect much longer life. I work on a lot of point to point vintage electronics, so I tend to run my iron fairly hot. Still, no reason the pencil should fail so quickly. I just pulled out my old standby WTCP, which has to be at least 25 yrs. old. Legacy Weller stuff was pretty much bulletproof, but they seem to be riding on their reputation. After seeing this video, I'm leaning heavily towards the Hakko. Funky styling not withstanding, it just looks to be a sturdier unit. Really appreciate the info.

[@CaspaB]

I don't believe the Hakko temperature got to 350 at 20 degrees / sec then stopped abruptly at 350! You need to measure the ACTUAL tip temperatures. This applies to the sponge cooling test also. I suspect the temperatures are measured at the heater and depending on the conductivity between heater and tip there could be quite an error. I've worked in temp measurement and control a lot of my working life and the response of the Hakko seems unrealistic. It gives naive users false confidence in the meter. The Weller is believable. btw: I published a resettable timer circuit in Silicon Chip Circuit Notebook (March 2016) to cut the power after 20 mins idle time.

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Charles Tivendale Yup I think Roger over on KainkaLabs did a great job on a video about the Atten Digital soldering iron temperature discrepancies. Although he was doing a video about fixing the problem and looking at how Atten's 2 wire elements sense temperature with a thermocouple in series with the element. The overshoot and calibration temp are usually way off, as are the maximum temperature. I don't trust any of the ones I've owned, but I've never owned or been enslaved by someone with a fat "pro's" wallet. I've never caught up to Mr Jones's and his '$500k pencil.'

[@dusanmilojevic3017]

A gay on one forum tested soldering stations tip temperature.He measured the tip temperature and absolute winner is old Weller magnastat.

[@Stokosworld]

The Hakko is a bullshit artist. Huge lag on the display vs actual tip temp and creative "Brakes" when it get to temp. the Hakko is a toy.

[@KM_Mountain]

On the basis of this review, I bought the TS 100. :-D Sometimes the comments on You Tube aren't just filled with trolls and abuse, thanks to the folks who mentioned it! Not got it yet, but seems perfect for me as a hobbyist and also as someone who requires it from time to time professionally in the field. Rossmann's review sealed it for me.

[@BMRStudio]

I’m the biggest Weller fan here :) I have all sorts of system from them. From more than 20 years, they never felt on Me. And no iron or soldering station repair ever! Not even a fuse!

[@EEVblog]

Space Jesus Dogstar - The Hakko 926 is famously reliable. My 30 year old still works fine with the original iron.

[@justinnink2396]

My Hakko took a few dives off my bench and it's working like a champ

[@bruhdabones]

Justin Nink The mark of a true engineer is a lack of coordination!

[@kathyquinlan5922]

I have a Hakko 926 that I won as a prize for work skills industrial electronics regional finals here in Perth (I represented Perth twice and received two 926's ;) The one I still have (my ex business partner has the other) has run like a champ for ~ 26 years, the only thing I have ever replaced are the tips :) Mine has had things hit it, been dropped off stages etc. I now own a 888D which is my go to Iron for general work BUT my 926 has a big chisel tip of the bigger ground plane joints :)

[@BMRStudio]

EEVblog let me see in 2027 :) both are good brand. But I prefer more the industrial looking ugly German Ursula :)

[@boilerbots]

The Hakko decimal point shows the duty cycle, as the temp dropped during the sponge test it went to 100% duty. I have several Wellers and the DIN connectors have intermittent connection issues and it can go open circuit. I have never had a problem with the Hakko brand and have a dozen at work but we used the next step up that has the thin pencil type handles and the tips you can just pull out, never like those threaded holders.

[@mikeypotts4732]

Just got the Hako, but if there was perfection this would be it. Literally everything about it down to the rubber used for cording is perfect. Hopefully it lasts for many years.

[@sam-douglas]

exactly the comparison i was looking for. thanks!

[@RaisingAwesome]

Could it be that the Weller tip sensor is closer to the surface/ambient and in turn the temp reading responds more quickly? This could be a engineering trick on the Hakko and compensated in the temperature controls. A true test would be to somehow measure the temperature of the "work" versus using their readout.

[@bruhdabones]

The Hakko fx888d can be bought in different configurations, especially on amazon. Mine included a chisel tip and the flush (90 degree) wire cutters. Don’t knock Hakko for your cone tip, knock your supplier!

[@EEVblog]

Fair call.

[@bruhdabones]

EEVblog Thanks for the reply! I’m a sophomore in High School (USA). I got the 888d as a Christmas present over a year ago! It’s wonderful :D

[@lesdmess845]

I spent two weeks in NASA standard soldering school back in the 70's and I think this is highly entertaining specially just for a soldering station comparison! In the end there are only two pertinent requirements - speed to temp and temperature stability, and both seem capable and comparable. I suppose that's where all the other frills for consideration for the money come into play that you covered very well.

[@gradeahonky]

Well, I bought a hakku partially based on this video. I tripped over the cord and pulled it off my table and crashing into the ground. The this host was right - it's solid as hell and still works like a charm

[@ntag411]

My Weller WE 1010 recently bought, August 2021, made in Mexico earlier this year. I will add in some detail the case of the control unit is not made rugged. The tight fit of the front panel, bottom half and top half gives the unit a solid feel when assembled. Opening involves removal of two screws on the back near the AC power jack and this same area of the top cover must be pulled/pried away from the unit for the internal hooks to release. Top cover at the rear will only move upward because of tabs of the top cover have vertical posts/pins that interface the lower half case. Once the rear of the top cover is lifted the top cover will release from the bottom half. The two screws of above are self tapping type that go directly into the plastic case using no metal clip for the screws to thread into. Slightly beveling the two tabs at the lower front of the top half case, one on each side, will make assembly substantially easier.

[@thefeet]

In the words of a very wise old man I knew once: "If it ain't broke don't fix it". Why open your weller unless you were about to attempt to fix it with your Hakko? LOL... All jokes aside... I totally went with the Weller... it was a no-brainer for me... but that's just ME. German engineering shouldn't be underestimated. I love it! In this price range? It was a personal decision. Two very good products and an excellent comparison was shown here!

[@ntag411]

@@thefeet Weller was the norm in the distant past in manufacturing here in the US. Back then it was pricey and did not own a Weller. I used a unregulated Ungar, built my entire Heathkit lab setup and many On TV decoders. That Ungar I still have today but the tip is stuck to the element. The Weller will most likely not last as long as that Ungar but it gives decent life with a number of heating element changes and tips. IMO, the higher performance, faster heating, will translate to shorter life.

[@JerryWalker001]

You only need presets in the hakko because of the dreadful interface. The Hakko is really 'wider' than the weller because you need to leave space for access to the switch. The step change test was invalid because you started the hakko when you pressed the key but the weller did not start until you finished setting the temp. The weller shows actual tip temp but the hakko shows internal tip temp. An interesting video but the tests were a bit ambiguous.

[@EEVblog]

No, the Weller start going up the instant you press the button, it's only the display that lags.

[@believethebible88]

Hi David, because of this video, I just ordered the Hako FX888 through your affiliate link. I only ever used one of the straight-to-mains iron and can't wait to do some serious soldering. Thanks for the vids---keep it up.

[@electronicsNmore]

Great review/comparison

[@roseelectronics4582]

What's your favourite soldering station?

[@skmetal7]

We go through so many of those damn weller iron handles because the cord swivels around and eventually breaks the wires inside. I've been taking a large zip tie and tightening it around the flexible part of the strain relief. Holds the wire tight at least.

[@ZylonFPV]

For those who dislike the blue/yellow colour of the Hakko, it’s available in silver! www.proto-pic.co.uk/user/products/hakko_fx888d_000__50459.jpg

[@ottersdangerden]

Futuristic tonka toy! LOL

[@Maskddingo]

Why do they insist on making these things look like cheap toys that are from the vision of the 'future' that Hollywood had in the 90's?

[@SillyOmega]

@@Maskddingo because japenses like designs that are simple. Probaly what makes there stuff last so long.

[@Maskddingo]

@@SillyOmega um no. You don't have to look like a toy to be simple. In fact, making it look like a toy makes it more complex and thus less reliable. Love classic Haako, but they have lost their way IMHO.

[@gradeahonky]

This video is awesome and hilarious. I'm an American with possibly the most American accent that has ever existed and I vow to make the word "dickie" work in my tongue the way this guy does. Cheers!

[@TheDarkTiamat2011]

23:15 that was an unfair race^^ the weller only took like one second more for the same thing, but you gave the hakko a head start...

[@SeanBZA]

Hakko also has that software that hides the actual tip temperature till it is far enough away from the set point, then follows the actual temp, but in the interim it simply displays set point only. Weller does follow actual temp in real time. Weller will benefit with some Copaslip on the tip to improve thermal transfer, plus the tips will not seize with long term use.

[@EEVblog]

The Weller actually seems to do the same thing.

[@danners4302]

11:06 you'll thank me later

[@alvawayfarer6096]

@Joe Lachiana \[T]/

[@2216sammy]

I've had Wellers in the past but when I got the FX888D OMG . That thing is the best soldering station I've ever used by leaps and bounds .

[@scotshabalam2432]

I love my Hakko 888D but I have to admit the Weller does feel better to work with having up and down buttons to change temp. Hakko has a rather nutty idea with how you set the temperature on the 888D

[@NorthernKitty]

@20:06 - "Terrible, Muriel".... LOL... I LOVE that movie!! I just love how you punctuate your points.

[@green_building]

This is what i call Review.. this is very cool and comprehensive 👍 thanks a lot for doing thia man, i really appreciate it 🙏

[@learningisglorious]

Don't worry about Hakko connectors. I have 5 888D in my company, plug and un plug everyday for 2 years now. Still working great.

[@mikkosha]

Had so many Weller soldering stations housing break and burn out that I'm inclined to try out a Hakko now :) It's a bit cheaper than the Weller around here :)

[@karlraffelsieper1232]

Just getting into the more serious end of the electronic hobby. Really like your assessment. I've used lots of Welle products before, mostly low end. But have been happy. Now with more projects underway and just getting into antenna work with my SDR think I'll jump into the Hakko iron. Thanks for your evaluation. Really enjoyed! Cheers. PS that funny sponge feel to the Hakko, is supposed to be electrostatic in nature. Design over function has no weight for me... so think I'll go Hakko. Thanks for a great review.

[@CliveChamberlain946]

IMO the starter range is under $20, while these two are at the top end of the getting serious range. Beyond that, with big $$ possibly getting lost on wrecked projects one should choose wisely and Pace said they'd send in their new ADS200 (120w @ $239 USD). That's the review I'll be waiting for..

[@CliveChamberlain946]

Today $10 buys the beginner a 60W Mustool MT223 for his/her 1st year (or until serious). Light duty regulated irons run from $30 to $150 (search YT for "HAKKO T12 Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron Kit"), but they still don't have the guts or the long-life pro tips like JBC, Metcal or Pace.

[@briancoverstone4042]

The Hakko brass wire thingy is amazing. You don't even have to wipe the tip on it to clean it, just pop it straight in and back out, and it looks perfect. I've heard Hakko coats the brass with some kind of flux.

[@sikkepossu]

Where do you need adjustable temperature feature? I've been soldering about 30 years and never had an temp controlled soldering iron. Most of that time I've been using Weller WCTP-S iron with self made power supply for it. No problems what so ever. :)

[@ZylonFPV]

Dave, can you repeat this test using a thermal imaging camera? It will allow us to really see the temperatures drop and heat up again. I think both irons are measuring the temperatures differently.

[@manifestgtr]

The Hakko is where it’s at. I’ve had an fx888d on my bench for several years now and the thing has been phenomenal. Granted, I do guitar/tube amp repair so my electronics work tends to be fixing cold and old joints, caps and pots...nothing too heavy duty. But it’s never let me down. As far as an entry level, professional iron goes, I wouldn’t recommend anything else. I’ll upgrade to a 951 eventually but there are various woodworking concerns to tend to in the meantime...

[@thefeet]

What a great review/comparison video. I went with the Weller. It may be hypothesis but I think the temp. sensors/circuitry in the Hakko is misleading as the "delay" is clearly noticeable from the sensor to the readout. If you are not "Speed-soldering" ( i know not of one person who does) go with that one if it makes you feel warm/fuzzy. Weller. Hands down. My choice but that's just me! GREAT VIDEO!

[@mikedrz]

When you reset the Hakko U is for USA in degrees F. A is for Asia, and would give you degrees C

[@EEVblog]

Ah, makes sense, thanks.

[@mikedrz]

No Problem, I think we found the same online source where the guy says "u is to reset". I had to do some further digging. lol

[@robertheal5137]

I don't know any kind of Asian who would think that makes sense.

[@mikedrz]

Robert Heal One is for the Asian Market and the other is for the US market. The rest of the world is of no consequence.

[@andydunnock8114]

Robert Heal - Lol, you're right, it doesn't. I like to see it as U for USA, and A for All Other Countries.

[@MakerofThingss]

Yay! Thanks, Dave! Been wanting to upgrade my soldering station for a while and was waiting for exactly this video! Thanks as always!

[@peterwoo2489]

You should revoew the TS100 soldering iron!

[@Ender_Wiggin]

agree my fave

[@eone199]

TS100 is for kids, not pros

[@HT-jn8uh]

I use the Hakko Fx100 soldering station everyday at work. The Fx100 costs about $500. The soldering gun on the Fx100 is light and the tip is short. I have more stability and control on the soldering gun. I recently bought the Hakko Fx888D and I dont' like the soldering iron very much. The soldering iron is bigger and the tip is longer. I have less stability and control on the soldering iron.

[@stevenmiller279]

I bought one of these, it's my first soldering station. I absolutely love it.

[@krishna34674]

Review a Metcal iron !!!

[@DirtyRobot]

I always remember starting at a cable infrastructure installer at a data center and seeing a stack of 8 burned out Weller's sitting in a dark corner. Asked the owner if I could have them. Took them home and got all of them running again. Made over $500 reselling them on ebay.

[@hoverman15]

My school has Weller soldering kids that have 3 buttons that can be used for presets. Looks like they just used the same LCD and removed the buttons/features.

[@natecontarino1748]

I can play with the knob on my WES51 all day.

[@fartrellcluggins930]

They stopped selling em it looks like! I want that iron!

[@philipp594]

I really like the weller spring thingie. It holds the iron well and there is no way to burn yourself.

[@philiphoeffer7442]

I'll keep my FX-951. Though I had a wesd Weller from the 70's until last year when I decided to try surface mounted stuff & decided to relegate the weller to backup duty.

[@andrewkowalczyk1156]

You'd have a hard time convincing me to trade in my Metcal for either of these, even though I got it for roughly the same price by parting it together on ebay

[@BobaFettBountyHunter]

Which Metcal do you have that I can buy retail for $100? I would like to get one.

[@timb7085]

I've had the Hakko 888D for quite a while and it works well, but I then got the Hakko 951 and it's much nicer... but with either, I only use the metal "sponge" thingie to clean tips - I never use a wet sponge... (I think that was Louis R advice) :)

[@billmoran3812]

I'm very happy with my Hakko. I also have an old Weller analog that I use for heavy duty work like chassis grounds or ground planes.

[@royh4305]

Talk about thorough testing! :) It is a true pleasure to watch. Thank you. Btw, I am getting the Hakko.

[@HazeAnderson]

I believe the definitive question when choosing a proper iron should be "Which one would I want in a duel?" ⚔🤔

[@Tome4kkkk]

Chisel tip and price will guide me ;) Can't wait to watch the review.

[@FlyingCakes01]

i absolutly love the hakko. i got it when it was released and i loved it since then. i would reccomend it to everyone

[@ecsciguy79]

12:52 - Ohhhh, look at that sponge! Well, that seals the deal. Weller it is!

[@EEVblog]

You'd better go take a cold shower

[@Dustysa4]

I really appreciate the sarcasm laced comedy of your review.

[@squarrl]

In our shop the Hakko consumables last way way longer then weller.

[@SillyOmega]

If japenses tools are known for any thing its how long the last. They do keep designs very simple too.

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

Kelvin is the only sensible scale. For serious space saving, a portable kit, or hobbyists, give the Hakko fx-600/601 a go. $30 less than the fx-888, same tips as the fx-888, 70watts on 120v (sold as 50w on japan's 100v, all the same internal part numbers.) The 601 has a tip retainer for a thicker higher heat capacity tip style. (600 to 601 conversion is a $5 part, although discerning which part number is which for ordering was ambiguous due to both translation and corporate-fool issues, two physical pieces, a tube and a nut matched to the tube.)

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

And Adafruit has [had?] a $35 "Atten" knockoff of the fx600. I have not compared them side by each, let alone long term.

[@kathyquinlan5922]

Dave loves his Soldering Irons ribbed for his pleasure ;)

[@hrtlsbstrd]

I wonder if the temperature sensor is closer to the tip in the weller - being closer to the tip would cause the readings to cool down 'further' and heat up 'slower', while maybe the actual temperatures between the Hakko and the Weller are the same. It would be great to get external readings on both for these tests

[@arthurmorgan8966]

6:10 I did put my tip in there, my finger tip. Day 1 with Hakko, forgot it’s on and front is open, tried to move the holder. Big ass burn on fingertip, gaping hole which took two weeks to close.

[@pfg_pedals]

I got the Weller and am pretty happy with it. The only complaints are the lack of backlight for the LCD and the switch. I was used to being able to spot whether I left my iron on by the glowing switch but now I have to double check every time before shutting down for the night. The manual is terrible for what is supposed to be entry level. They treat it like their professional grade stuff and assume the buyer well knows what to do already. If I had to choose again I would still pick the Weller, but my next station will be one of the professional grade units. Spend the $2-300 and have something that will last a lifetime.

[@Arnthorg]

how much do the handles heat up? The handles of the ridiculously expensive weller irons at my previous work literally got burning hot very quickly.

[@8bitjunkie8]

Arnþór Gíslason my hakko doesn’t get hot at all

[@EEVblog]

Not a problem with these.

[@mildyproductive9726]

Leaded, here. I use my 888 at 315 to 335C. To summarize: I can't tell the iron is on/off by the temp of the handle. I can and do use the iron for many hours at a time, and it does not change. My method is to turn it on when I first need it for the day, and it is pretty much left on until I am done for the day other than for tip changes. It is many times that I have picked it up and tried to solder, and after a few seconds of pressing and wondering what gives, I finally realize I haven't turned it on, yet. The thing that finally registers for me is the lack of flux smoke. There's no perception of handle temperature. Chinese 936/888 knockoffs? Hooyah, many of them get hot right quick at the same set temps. I purchased one, recently, and the handle gets hot within 1 minute of turning it on; uncomfortably hot within 5 minutes. One of the clone handles now comes with a feature that automatically throttles down the temperature when the handle heats up to avoid damage. So instead of offering a more expensive handle with better construction and materials, they can continue to sell bottom dollar junk by cheaping out and imposing a duty cycle on the handpiece. 20 minutes of work, manually turn it off and let it have 40 min to cool down. Or simply leave it on and let it reach half your set temp forever after. There IS technology in these "old-fashioned" stations. There's nothing special in the electronics. There are no fancy software algorithms. The technology and experience is in the materials science and engineering and manufacturing methods in the handpiece and heater. I suppose regulations against asbestos are pretty effective, else cheap clones would just load their handpiece plastic with it and be able to compete with the real thing.

[@mildyproductive9726]

@Ampor Gislason: update: having just experienced this issue, I have to append my previous statement. It depends on what you are soldering! If your duty cycle is very high and your joints are sinking a lot of heat, the 888 handle can get uncomfortably hot. If you are doing continuous production work with large joints, the 888 is not the best at this, regarding handle temp!

[@Arnthorg]

very interesting, thank you

[@averageguysradio]

Well done, this was the first video I found that was of any value. You also presented it in a fun way without being ridiculous. In the end, I think that I prefer the Weller due to the user interface. The Hakko may have presets but to cumbersome to access, so essentially worthless IMHO. Besides the design looks silly, more like a childs toy. Your test did show that it does preform as a proper soldering station, so I'm not knocking the performance.

[@mikeknowlden5117]

i didnt know nardwuar did product reviews. Thanks for the video!

[@electron4784]

Very informative just what I was looking for. This was a good matchup. Thanks again

[@jokue2002]

Your 350 to 450 transition test wasn't really fair. The Hakko was already heating up as you were still setting the Weller.

[@andicus1]

Agreed. Since it takes longer to set the Weller, he should've set it first. It also takes about 4 seconds until it times out and confirm you want to change the temperature. Then it starts heating.

[@comettoPL]

It is rather irrelevant - when you are losing your time for confirmation or for actual heating.

[@tikabass]

There are other brands of fine soldering irons in the same range out there... I'm thinking of Antex, but there are certainly more.

[@yesitsdawid]

I bought an FX888D a while ago, replacing a cheap fixed temperature iron and I could never go back - I don't lift pads anymore!

[@Zadster]

It is interesting to see the cultural perceptions on these two brands. Here in the UK, Weller dominates. Almost universally. The light blue corporate colour scheme is pretty much what you expect to see in any commercial workshop, even if it is the baby model or something from the 1970s - not unlike expecting to see a Fluke meter (or a few years ago, an AVO). You could probably get away with the old style Hakko 936 but if you had the FX888 "Baby's first soldering iron" on your desk... On a budget, I'd go with an Ebay 936 ripoff, have a good rummage inside with a meter to make sure it won't kill me, then add some genuine replacement bits from Farnell. Glue / bolt the iron stand on top if you are really pushed for space.

[@WanJae42]

But the internet was going to bring us all together. lol

[@nathanschenk8886]

Regarding the sponge test, the Weller heater is on the outside, where the Hakko is on the inside. I suspect that the thermal path from the heater to the sponge is much lower resistance on the Weller, which is why the temperature drops more. The ground plane soldering performance is a much more fair comparison since the thermal path between the heater and the tip is more important when actually using the iron.

[@DennisMurphey]

Well done, my 1977 weller just died on me. I need a replacement. My old one is simple 60W brick, but I like it and can get tips. After seeing these demos here, I think I will break open the old one and try to repair it. $100 for that package and performance and features just isn't worth it to me. Your review was quite thorough and practical. Well done. D

[@Cyberjjc]

What's wrong with Fahrenheit?

[@HazeAnderson]

Takes longer to heat up. 😏👉 (see what I did there?)

[@nikolamasic7395]

@@HazeAnderson If you need to point out that you 'did something' you aren't doing it well.

[@antiphet3696]

hahahaha, nothing

[@salmanrashid6245]

I have both. Hakko is well built but Weller looks more professional. I use my Hakko all the time. Just started using FX-951 and FM-203-DP. Love the Made in Japan feel of these FX-951 and FM-203DP.

[@J38x729]

I appreciate the comprehensive review..I just don't have 42 minutes to watch this at the moment. 😄

[@FurEngel]

I highly recommend the WESD51, I have 3 units that have been in daily use for over 10 years :-)

[@fartrellcluggins930]

I really wanted to get that one. They don't seem to br available at all? Have you seen this?

[@sw33t.angela]

Have you tried the X-Tronic soldering irons? They are fairly cheap and have been getting good reviews online. I have one and it's done pretty well. I don't think the live readout is too accurate but it does very well. Just replace the tip on it.

[@Ratzfaz]

My Weller is now 50 Years old, and it's working fine ;-)

[@Boffin55]

Mine has to be close (W-TCP-L), Great form factor

[@heathwellsNZ]

My Weller is just over 30 years old and is much loved and still going strong. My memory is that when it was purchased we didn't have Hakko in my country ??? - maybe you could get them from specialist shops maybe... But Weller was a bit like "Fluke" in terms of Multi-meters... everyone who was serious had Fluke and everyone who was serious had Weller... That Hakko iron base unit looks nice though - although, given I am forever cutting up new sponges I still like the square shaped sponge area.

[@typmitvielknete]

As a Weller WS51 user im not really impressed by the new Weller units. And i dont get why you want a digital interface when you can have a simple Pot to select your desired temperature.

[@Stokosworld]

What temp exactly ARE you selecting with your un-calibrated pot?

[@untrust2033]

I own neither but from this I'm definitely preferring the hakko. The "pencil" just looks more comfortable and after years of using cheap arse entirely plastic ones I'm hoping it will be a lot better :/

[@funtechu]

I've been using the Hakko 888D for a little over 6 years now, and it is a rock-solid entry level iron. Definitely recommended.

[@GRBtutorials]

"Bloody Fahrenheit garbage" That made me laugh so hard! Yeah, Celsius and Kelvin FTW!

[@WCM1945]

I still say "centigrade" instead of "Celsius". But then I also say "cycles" instead of "Hertz", so...

[@CptJistuce]

Rankine or GTFO!