EEVblog

The TS80P is the upgrade to the TS80, Dave's previous favorite portable soldering iron. But with added USB-PD and 30W vs 18W.
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[@EEVblog]

UPDATE: Response from Miniware: "We are optimizing the compatibility of QC and PD in the software, and the new firmware will be improved in the future."

[@pssh23]

Hi, hope you are doing well in current world pandemic. will you please, make new Keysight EDUX1052A/G review/tear-down video or something like that? I'm getting it for INR 36K (in IND). is it really worth it? or should i go for Siglent SDS1052DL+ (for INR 26K) or GW-Instek GDS 1102U/AU (around 23K)? Also, Share your opinion about HTC and Uni-t, please. Note- 1. RIGOL scopes are too expensive here, starting from INR 34K. Note- 2. Government is kind of not in favor of Chinese electronics for future, it seems. As, Graduate Electronics Engineer, what would you suggest for job opportunities. Majority Indian industries are into IT, Software & Application Development. Not much into hardware. Even finding a job, needing 1-2 years of experience could pay around 20K per month. and most of such hardware based jobs are in startups. The Legacy/Dream companies like TI and others, don't even look at resumes unless he/she graduates from tier-I institutes/ collages. It would be great if possible, to share some thoughts and suggestion. Bdw, i'm 27 and just have experience of 2 yrs as freelancer. And my classmates friends who shifted to software development are earning 3x more than me. I'm started to think of making career change into (IT or Software or something), to be able to make healthy living. Sorry, if i'm asking so much and causing trouble. I do love your videos and i believe in you. You are good as mentor, wish I had teachers/professors like you. Thanks!

[@PunakiviAddikti]

Yeah I thought it's not a hardware issue. The firmware isn't negotiating PD, but the hardware must be capable of PD. Also, you might want to keep an eye on that power bank. It seems to be bulging a bit. That could be an issue.

[@ovalwingnut]

01000110 01100001 01101110 01110100 01100001 01110011 01110100 01101001 01100011 00101110 00100000 01001001 00100111 01101101 00100000 01100010 01110101 01111001 01101001 01101110 01100111 00100000 01101111 01101110 01100101 00100000 01100001 01101110 01100100 00100000 01101001 01110100 00100111 01110011 00100000 01100111 01101111 01101001 01101110 01100111 00100000 01101001 01101110 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 00100000 01110000 01101111 01101111 01101100 00100000 01110010 01101111 01101111 01101101 00100001 ❤

[@TH-wr1dv]

But did they ever release working firmware even for TS80? I have tested it with ~15 cables and ~20 different psu and almost with all psu it works so that if I press heat button it fall to low power error. But if I press configuration and then after that heat it works well. I watch with analyzer and looks that normally it try start heating up before it hadshake higher voltage properly. It feels and looks good product but it is ruined with typical chinese firmware.

[@danieljung2810]

Do you happen to know where to upload the latest firmware?

[@TooLazyToFail]

I love mine! I sold my business six months ago including the $2500 soldering workbench. In my new life I don't do a lot of soldering but picked up a TS80P and a 45W USB C battery bank for those occasional times when I need to solder something. I recently helped a friend install a backup camera in their van and I looked like a frickin' NINJA when I unloaded a complete soldering setup from my bag right there on the side of the road.

[@bryanjk]

Wait why did you install a backup camera on the side of the road?

[@v000000000000v]

@@bryanjk asking the real question

[@Schradermusic]

@@bryanjk No garage?

[@TooLazyToFail]

@@bryanjk We live in the city and don't have garages.

[@limitedhangoutlive]

I love my Haku but a lot of people are switching to this as even their main soldering iron. The only thing I dislike about my trusty Haku, like most irons, is the damn wire. To be able to get into tight spots and make quick adjustments without having to play jump rope is something I'm looking forward to. Ordered.

[@perhansson6718]

I've had the TS80 since your video #1114 and it's been a real treat! Both for private jobs but also work stuff, it hasn't let me down :)

[@jasonmhite]

Agree, I got one too and quite love it. My only real complaint is that replacement tips are expensive, but at least they are easier to find than when the TS80 first came out.

[@usoppbarbosa981]

Likewise, been using it a lot making RS232 connexions in cleanroom, soldering tons of sub-D on the floor, over a ladder, just about anywhere! Wall sockets are very rare where i am so that was the perfect tool for the job. Also use it for my odd tinkerings at home, works flawlessly :)

[@RealAphotiX]

I purchased the TS80 based on the same video. I will say that flashing the open source firmware made it significantly more versatile allowing it to pull more power and also use 5v power sources.

[@NicholasMaietta]

I love mine. Perfect for van life. Survival kit. Etc.

[@rogueFactor]

is there a new open source ralin firmware for the TS80P? that firmware is leaps and bounds above the factory firmware on the TS100.

[@BigClive]

When plugged into their ungrounded power supply, is there AC voltage present on the tip with respect to ground?

[@BrianLough]

I didn't get the supplied power pack that Dave did, but I measure 100v AC between earth and the tip using my official Mac charger (which also is ungrounded I believe, it has a metal ground pin but it doesn't connect it to the actual PSU)

[@jamess1787]

Wow, the makers have arrived =).

[@PunakiviAddikti]

I doubt there is with USB-C but you never know...

[@jamess1787]

@@PunakiviAddikti there's a shield, and depending on the design: they could have tied it into the AC Neutral or did a poor job with electronic design. I don't think using a standard means that your device is inherently safe.

[@BrianLough]

@@PunakiviAddikti I tested with 4 power delivery supplies and 1 QC supplies and all them showed ac voltage on the tip.

[@hexwell]

The RD TC66 has sloppy protocol identification on the first page (the one at 16:57). According to my observations it does the detection based on the voltages on D+ and D- but does not look at the CC line or even voltage for that matter. For example my laptop charger supports only USB PD, yet the TC66 marks the connection as a USB BC DCP 1.5 (a normal 5V 1.5 A USB port) even tho the voltage is 20 V and has been negotiated through USB PD. Also, the protocol detection function (18:35) is not meant to detect protocols while they are being used between devices. Instead it requires you to press the button and then cycles through the protocols, testing which are available. This poses a danger if a device is plugged in tho, as the TC66 would overtake the communication to the power supply and possibly apply to the device a voltage it does not support or expect

[@rdtech9153]

Thank you for your message. something what you said is right , our meter communication protocol dection was decide D+ and D- voltage , and all usb meter in the market do the same , only some meter add some Auxiliary way. for your last words, it is was totally wrong , because our meter is just to detect that , not trigger . for the voltage , it already show the voltage and current . only you use Trigger function , it can trigger some higher voltage , for normal measure , you need to close PD switch ..

[@hexwell]

​@@rdtech9153 Thank you for the reply! My last words are referring to the "Protocol Detection" page shown in the video at time 18:35. When using this mode I have tested that the voltage changes as the protocols are being detected and in fact the firmware shows a warning before the detection begins.

[@mfx1]

I really want them to make a MK2 version of the TS100 with a decent metal case, PLEASE if anyone has contacts with the manufacturers tell them people are crying out for it.

[@gregthemechanicman]

I'm IN!!

[@xenonram]

Why, did you have issues with the plastic case? I haven't. Plenty of things use plastic cars that are super durable. Like power tools.

[@Rinkel80]

@@xenonram Not true. I already broke a case. Lucky its easy to order a new one. I check the Chinese sites often to see if someone is already offering a metal case.

[@juststeve5542]

Me too! in fact i was just googling to see if anyone made an aftermarket case! Love the iron, and I haven't ever slipped my fingers off the end onto the hot bits, but I would like something with a bit more girth. To me it feels like it's designed to be handled by someone with lady fingers, not my sausage fingers!

[@davidwillmore]

How about a TS80 with a 12V 5.5x2.5mm jack?

[@kissingfrogs]

Whatever works for you. Ye Ole round Power Jack is the winner for me. i.e TS100 . I dont have any of those fancy power banks but I do have cordless tool that were easily modded to support the TS100 for field work. 18v 5Ah works a treat.

[@mfx1]

Exactly what I do, 18v DeWalt and the TS100 is my main iron now just wish it had a better case.

[@digitalradiohacker]

But USB is smaller! Remember, smaller and slimmer is better - because ..... because.... well it just is. "Upgrade" to disposable data connectors for all your power needs today!

[@photonicpizza1466]

@@digitalradiohacker Nice half-assed strawman there, mate. Nobody's arguing that in electronics. The point why USB-C is better is standardisation. Having one connector for basically everything ensures great cross-compatibility (At least, until a company like Nintendo cocks it up and implements their own thing on the connector, ignoring the rest of the standard); why have a separate barrel jack power supply when you can use your phone charger? USB is already a power delivery standard in the consumer space which means it's bloody everywhere, it's far more versatile for a tiny portable thing like this iron. Edit: you seem to be all over the comments here being pissy about the USB-C jack. To that I say: grow up. It's more than capable enough and it's far more common than a barrel jack. Don't want it? Don't buy it. But don't act like a child.

[@digitalradiohacker]

@@photonicpizza1466 If you've seen my other comments, you will have learned why, as a power connector, USB-C is a poor second rate substitute for a barrel jack The reason I am "all over the comments" is to educate most of the 13 year olds on here who think that USB-C is all there is. They think this because when they snap the socket out of their Iphone, mummy and daddy will just buy them another £1000 phone. This fuels the idea, back at the manufacturer, that these connectors are actually accepted by wider society, when actually, it is anything but the case. If you're designing some kind of spy gadget that absolutely HAS to be slim, I can see why USB-C would be chosen. Pressed into service with an agency that has an infinite budget, it won't matter if the power socket regularly breaks off. For a tool like this on the other hand, USB-C is more than avoidable. If your only intention is to use USB-C as a data connector (and a fairly fast one at that), fair enough, but for power alone? They're simply not as rugged as a barrel jack socket CAN be, depending on the design. Further, USB power supplies are NOTORIOUS for presenting AC, with respect to mains earth, on the shield and DC negative. This is a big no-no for soldering irons because it could destroy components as you solder them. We'll pretend that others here, independent to me, have not reported well in excess of 100V on the shield of GENUINE Apple chargers. My previous comments may have come off as sarcastic as I guess that is my sense of humour. I'm trying to be halfway between taking the piss, and having a laugh. I guess the only thing we need now is to have a comedian solder a few SSOP packages to evaluate which of us does the better job at each other professions.

[@JennyEverywhere]

I have a TS100 that I got shortly after they came out. I use that with my hot air station and can do about 90% of what I need to do with those. But if I have something heavy, like coax connectors, or one of those enclosures made from PCB material you solder together, I have a tempurature-regulated mains iron that's good and beefy, and will melt those massive traces and ground plane blobs without any trouble. It's just 4x as heavy as the TS100 and uses a lot more power. I can also attest to the fact that burning yourself with a soldering iron does NOT smell like chicken. When I was about 14, I'd been doing some soldering and forgot to unplug the iron, leaving it on my sheet-steel desk while I went to do something else. When I came back, I forgot it was plugged in, and started to clean up my soldering work and picked up the iron with my left hand...by the wrong end. It was so hot and so sudden, it overloaded the nerves so I didn't feel it. It took smelling burnt PORK and hearing the sizzle to realize it was actually plugged in. Then I tossed it down on the desk, screamed, and ran into the kitchen. I opened the freezer and grabbed a frozen beef roast. I think that's what kept the damage from being a lot worse. I didn't lose any fingertips, I just had a nasty dent across my left thumb and the tips of my left index and middle fingers. I'm pushing 60, and you can still see the ridge of scar tissue across those digits, and the dents are still there, just not very pronounced. I didn't lose the sensation in my fingertips (based on it still hurting like hell until it healed), but years later I had a tempered glass tabletop come apart while holding it , two neat little semicircles breaking free where I was holding the damned thing, and it nearly clipped off my left thumbtip. It was still connected, so I just dressed it well and it healed up okay. But there was a major sensation loss on that section of my thumb. Between the keloid under the skin and the severance, it was too much for the nerves.

[@SidebandSamurai]

@Gwen Patton I did something even better than that. I was a kid when cars had lighters in the back seat. I was playing with it. Pushing it in. Waiting for it to pop out. Pulling it out and watching the resulting glow fade away. Eventually I had the bright idea to stick my index finger in the just cooled lighter. Burned the heck out of my finger and left a nice circular sworel on the pad. I was proudly showing that tattoo to everyone that would look.

[@LektroiD]

My fiancée bought me a TS80 for my birthday, absolutely love it. Really useful for jobs away from the workbench.

[@p3tr0114]

@EEVblog @4:30 that springy thing serves a purpose. It's to eject the tip when it's hot without touching it. I would assume the TS80's screw off is for the same purpose.

[@tiny_toilet]

I fail to see why a bench unit is supposedly still preferable for most work unless you have a modern, high-end station. As soon as I got the TS-100 (and then TS-80), I started using them exclusively. They are ready to go in a jif, and the auto-standby/wake-up is very nice. I've run into very few jobs they couldn't handle, and they're just so much more convenient!

[@EEVblog]

Whatever works for you.

[@mfx1]

Same here TS100 is my main iron now, just needs a better case. I own Metcal and Weller (before they became overpriced crap) stations but they're just gathering dust now.

[@vgamesx1]

Same for me, I do have an old hakko clone + hotair station and these irons beat it hands down, the only advantage it has is that you can get knock off tips for less than a $1 a piece if you're willing to grab a bunch but that isn't much of an advantage when knock off T12 tips cost as little as $3 and the shorter TS100 tips only cost $5.

[@ASJC27]

Add another one to the list of converts from stations to TS100. My hakku has been sitting in the shed gathering dust for 3 years now, while the TS100 with its far superior performance does everything from SMD work under the microscope to large gauge wires. I power it with a 24V laptop brick in the house and in the field with either a powerbank with laptop output or a small 25V quadcopter battery.

[@Scrogan]

A T12 STM32 station is cheaper than a TS100, has auto standby and wakeup configs just like those portable TS irons. I don’t really understand the convenience argument if you’re using it as a bench iron, if they’re both sitting in a stand there’s no difference between how you pick it up and use it. In fact, because it’s a portable iron, you’re more likely to have the TS80 in a bag than on your bench, but that’s besides the point. I prefer the rotary encoder of the T12, be nice to see a rotary encoder wrapped around the shaft of a portable iron, that would be a cool gimmick.

[@Petertronic]

Would you consider making a video on the USB power delivery standards?

[@andymouse]

That would be great...nice ask.

[@Akbar_Friendly_in_Cherno]

I believe in order to get the full amount of current from the Jackery bank you have to press the button on the bank before you plug it in. That's how my Anker bank works.

[@mfx1]

Still prefer my TS100 as I can run it off my 18v DeWalt batteries for hours. A better case would be nice though. Also heard loads of problems with TS80's being fussy about battery packs.

[@sanderd17]

USB charging standards have become a true mess.

[@MarcAntoine01]

Both too, the TS100 is annoying to find power for. TS80 is indeed very picky about the battery that you'll use. I'm getting the new one right away

[@hisnameisrentoo]

@@MarcAntoine01 The Ralim custom firmware makes the original TS80 so much better! And it's free!

[@adlerweb]

@@MarcAntoine01 Most people I know just use their laptop PSU for TS100. It's in their bags anyway. As an alternative there are cables with USB-PD input and DC plug output. While it's a cable more to carry it's IMO far easier to get compatibility. In doubt replacing the cable with a newer standard is cheaper than replacing the whole iron.

[@ItsJustMeMusic]

BitBastelei my laptop uses PD so this is quite appealing.

[@MontgomeryPisswhistle]

Well this sold me. I almost bought a TS80 some time ago and then kind of forgot about it. When I saw the notif pop up for this vid, I watched it straight away and then ordered the TS80P. Can't wait to receive it! Thanks for such a comprehensive, humorous review! ❤️

[@wildstar1063]

I've been using my TS 80 for about a year now, I find that I use it more than my expensive Weller soldering station. I just wish that there were as many tips for the TS 80 as the TS 100.

[@Jakob6174]

Could they not be modified?

[@donnot0]

Looking at 18:48, the LiPo in your power bank seems to be bulging and bending the casing slightly. Might want to keep an eye on that!

[@RedShift5]

It's a bit how you doin'

[@derkeksinator17]

Lil spicy pillow action going on

[@AngDavies]

I also see "teeth marks" :P i feel Dave has probably opened that up at some point to see what's inside (what cells etc) , and that's the reason it's bulging, rather than a failure in the cell XD

[@fnytnqsladcgqlefzcqxlzlcgj9220]

@@RedShift5 a bit how's ya mum

[@Sunstepa]

Good catch.

[@TheFrankvHoof]

Would the 'Tip R444' be the resistance measured from the tip? So it could adjust for potential thermal differences etc.?

[@EEVblog]

Ah, that sounds likely. It was always changing a little bit. So 0.444 ohms?

[@RespawnRestricted]

Ts100 is much better . Who care if the 80 got a nicer case its shit

[@kruppin]

I think it measures tip ohm to calculate best voltage amp combo it should negotiate with power bank to get most efficient power? Maybe not. Or more likely it's for getting more stable temp, knowing power could help PID control etc? Anyway 4.46 ohm tip can do 2.69A (32w) at 12v. And apparently I missed this first time watching but at 13:03 we can see 32w as max power, so I guess it checks ohm to know max power.

[@Gameboygenius]

0.4 ohms seems a bit low. That would give over 300 W at 12 V and a lot more at higher voltages. 4.44 ohms would maybe be more reasonable since it would give an 80 W nominal power for an input voltage of 19 V. TS80 tips have a K type thermocouple in series with the element. 4.44 mV would be around 100 °C so that doesn't line up. 444 could be the raw ADC value for either the thermocouple voltage or a resistance measurement.

[@Scrogan]

Or maybe it’s a measured thermal resistance (or heat capacity) value that it makes based off heat-up time and/or overshoot. If it knew both of those it would be able to tune its PID constants appropriately to minimise overshoot, not that overshoot really matters so long as it has even half-decent feedback.

[@hisnameisrentoo]

I just did a little soldering with my TS80 (Ralim firmware) and a QC 3.0 power bank not half an hour ago, and the ts80 was running at 20something watts. The firmware update really does the business.

[@IanTester]

This difficulty with USB QC vs PD is, I think, a plus for the TS100's simple barrel jack.

[@xenonram]

The barrel jack sucks. You either need to rig something up, buy an adaptor, or run it off 110V with the plug it comes with. Plus the wire is WAY too thick. It is the worst part of the TS100.

[@EEVblog]

Only if you always carry around a 12V battery.

[@lost4468yt]

USB PD is rapidly becoming the standard everywhere though. Laptops are slowly nearly all changing to USB PD for charging, phones are moving to it for the higher charging capacity. Even some new computer monitors are powered via USB PD, with some receiving everything by USB C. USB QC was a weird little jump in the middle to satiate the industries desire for higher charging voltages and currents, and was not at all a standard part of USB accepted by everyone. But USB PD pretty much is. It allows for up to 20V at 5A, so 100W of power delivery. USB-C with USB PD is far better than the barrel jack of the TS100. Barrel jacks come in all different shapes and sizes, are bulky, don't appear in many places, don't come with portable battery packs, etc. On top of that the barrel jacks can only supply a single voltage at a certain current. Whereas with USB PD the device can negotiate the power it wants, requesting voltages between 5V and 20V at between 0-5A. The reason I'd rather a TS80P is because I can carry around my single USB-C PD 65W ThinkPad charger, and with the single tiny (size of a lipstick container, that's why it's nicknamed the lipstick charger) charger with one cable, and with it I can charge my phone, my laptop, my portable battery (and because that's also USB PD it can power everything as well with the same cable), my portable soldering iron (e.g. amazing when I can power it from the portable battery, true portability with a very long battery life), etc. It takes up *so* much less space in my bag.

[@yellowbrick902]

@@EEVblog there's a market for USB PD to laptop barrel jack adapters, at 19v. I keep one with my TS100, right next to an adapter for my drill battery.

[@ASJC27]

To each his own. The great thing is we have a choice. Personally I love my TS100 with its 70W power. It just handles anything with ease. It has become the only iron that I use with the hakku gathering dust (I probably didn't turn it on in a good 3 years). The TS80 for me is useless. I use the 100 with a 24V laptop brick in the house, or on the rare occasion that I need it in the field either with one of those powerbanks that have a 20V laptop output, or with a tiny 25V (6S) quadcopter battery. I would like a MK2 version with the nice metallic case but that's a minor thing.

[@JN.0_o]

I made a type C cable for my TS100, it's got a 60cm silicone cable between the 2.1mm plug and a tiny PCB with a type C connector that tells the PD source to output 15v, so the iron can pull up to 45w. I already had 60w power banks and plug packs anyway since I use them to power my laptop when I'm travelling, and I'm really pleased with that setup.

[@john_hind]

Tip: To run this off an 18V powertool battery, get a USB PD car adapter. These are available very low cost and some are rated for 12V-24V input, so fine on the 18-20V you get from a power tool battery. Buy the cheapest tool that uses that battery (often a torch) and bodge the car adapter onto this using the battery shoe. Just make sure the PD adapter supports 12V at at least 2.5A (the same for a mains one). Note the adapter supplied with the 'More-US' version of the TS80P (the kit that includes the essential silicone USB cable) supports: 5V 3A; 9V 3A; 12V 3A; 15V 3A; 18V 2.5A and 20V 2.25A.

[@zzxd7720]

I really like the TS-80, uses same charger QC3.0 as my cellphone. No need to search around the house for a specific power supply. I wish every device would use the same USB-C port. One charger to rule them all!

[@teslatrooper]

I ordered this as soon as I saw the upgraded one was available, got it a week ago and it works great, also takes less space on my desk than my Hakko station.

[@Gigabitz]

You had me sold on the TS80/TS80P... until I read the comments and saw similar reports elsewhere confirming: hit-or-miss power bank compatibility, low voltage errors on startup even with the included AC adapter, and the AC leak on the tip. Seriously, the USB-C on this device makes it less safe, with hit-or-miss power support from batteries or mains AC. I don't see how anyone could consider this an upgrade.

[@juststeve5542]

I think those of us with the TS100 (which will run off many laptop PSUs or anything with 12-24v via a 5.5mm barrel) are feeling quite vindicated in our decision after watching all the problems digitally negotiated power delivery is causing!

[@TheChrisey]

It makes absolutely no sense to use this as a substitute for soldering stations that can be plugged in right away and has more than enough power. The whole USB and fast charge crap is just a shot in the foot for them. Not at all impressive.

[@iusethisnameformygoogleacc1013]

@@TheChrisey And cost at least the same amount. And are not portable, which actually matters to a lot of people. The near-religious devotion some people devote to justifying their decision to own a soldering station is pretty bizarre. Come on, you're at least ostensibly an adult. Act like it.

[@krissolshaq4934]

@@TheChrisey thanks. I was about to buy it but I will stick to carrying my Pace MBT 350 rework station to my clients if the repair must be done on spot.

[@afrog2666]

Laptop PSU? Lol, you can run it on 4x18650 cells or a 3-4 cell LiPo USB C isn`t for power delivery, it just isn`t, it can`t take a hit or resist any type of dirt either, so yeah, sticking with the TS100 lol xD

[@afrog2666]

@@TheChrisey It`s not meant to replace a proper station, portable irons are for on the go repairs and small field work. They`re also nice for stuff like fixing roof-mounted LED`s, and other "homework" type deals. A station makes sense if you have a workbench and need the power. If all you do is solder some wires on a quadcopter and replace an LED or two in your ceiling, a station is the one that doesn`t make sense ;) Personally I only own portables, gas and electric.. Unless you count the cheapo 60W iron I exclusively use to solder batterypacks once every third year hehe :p

[@cian.horgan]

Cheers Dave, one small thing though at 9:50 when you're saying the TS100 with a 12V pack is a better choice: the TS100 will happily run on 12V but nowhere near full power, it needs 24V for best performance and I even notice a difference going down to 20V

[@stephenarling1667]

"Comes with one of those weird-ass Yankee plugs on it."

[@johncoops6897]

... and your point is? What would YOU call the strange (and non-compliant) fold-out US plug?

[@MrHics]

@@johncoops6897 electrocution fork?

[@jamess1787]

The aus plug is weird-ass, it's a Slanty-US higher-voltage, lower Hertz plug 😂 You tell me whose weird!!!

[@johncoops6897]

@@jamess1787 - the "weird ass" that is being referred to here is that the prongs FOLD OUT of the housing. That is almost certainly not compliant, and makes a dreadful connection.

[@stephenarling1667]

@@johncoops6897 What I would call the standard US household plug, even in its folding version, is a traditional, rational design.

[@Arek_R.]

They should add package just with the iron and silicone cable. Most people already have some PD/QC power supplies/banks, and most of the world won't benefit much from foldable US plug... I already have QC/PD 60W PSU with interchangeable UK/EU/US plugs and 20Ah powerbank with QC/PD 45W. Both of these work with everything. PD is amazing, can take one PSU to travel and can use it to charge my laptop, BT headphones, this powerbank and my smartphone.

[@rocketman221projects]

I wish they would make one of these with a pair of the standard red/black Anderson PP30 connectors and support running it from a 12V SLA or LiFePO4 battery.

[@wilk7255]

You're looking for the TS100, takes 12-24VDC through a simple 5mm coax jack. Real easy to make power cords to connect to whatever you can think of.

[@maxusboostus]

Spot on about the TS100 plastic case. Mine has various cracks etc. holds together well with electrical tape and still works.

[@jlcozic]

You can change the low-voltage cutoff threshold in the settings menu.

[@EEVblog]

I know, and tried that, doesn't make a didference.

[@leocurious9919]

@@EEVblog You can get 24 Watt with the custom, open source firmware for the TS80 (2A @ 12V). It is much better. Also solves most of the "low Vot" issues. And displays the real temperature. And current power usage. Its so much better... I use it since march, not going back to the original. github.com/Ralim/ts100/releases

[@uiopuiop3472]

@@leocurious9919 agreed on that one, using it with my TS100

[@krnlg]

It's a shame the TS80 isn't compatible with T12 tips like the TS100 is. For my uses, which are frequent but not professional (yet?), the TS100 is going to be an excellent T12-tip compatible iron/station for the bench (and I need to be able to do high thermal mass stuff); in fact it means I simply can't justify paying more for something like a Hakko station. The TS80 sure looks good for a portable option. I know the 100 is of course portable, but the barrel jack makes it ideal for bench use too and of course it has the extra power which will sometimes be critical. All of these irons are pretty damn interesting. The value for money seems really good.

[@notenoughtech]

I got the TS80 and I agree with you, a lot of Hackspace guys that own TS100 were actually envious of the TS80. Makes little sense for them to "upgrade" if you already own one, but after discussion, we came to the conclusion that while TS100 is stronger none of thee guys actually came across the situation where TS80 wouldn't be enough. Guys are into drones and RC cars (before you ask). I also tried to find longer silicone cables of this quality - but these are hard to find. I love the cable!

[@thatengineeringchannel4611]

I've always used gas (butane) powered portable irons because those have a lot of power. However, this new TS80P looks rather nice and I hope that they solve the PD negotiation firmware issues.

[@MichealWeinfurtner]

Thanks for reviewing the newest model. It has helped me with my buying decision.

[@Darieee]

5:36 just give the Type-C connector a little squeeze - these silicone wires have a tendency to be quite loose, and the iron gives up immediately once it's QC/PD link gets broken 1:00 with the Ralim Custom Firmware I do get around 30W of draw from the original TS80 - doesn't go up to 12v with all chargers - but does so with a lot of 'em 5:10 aaye, I see the original did get quite some hours - OLED's quite a bit more faded

[@kivylius]

Some other CONS: - The new hot-swap handle is sightly lose (more on some then others), and dont feet stable nor premium in the hand, the TS80 at-least had a stable handle. - Tips working is hit or miss, theres a lot of people having issues with "No-Tip Problem". - Overall for 70-80$ the build quality is not there, comparing to any dock based iron, its not even close, it looks pretty but thats about it. - If you think you can plug it into any usb-c hub/power brink, you will be wrong, even tho its says it supports more options, its false information. You still need a dedicated usb-c power brink (basically the kit or very few other selected models), making this no more better then a TS100 with laptop charger. I returned mine, may look into the TS100 as its half the price, but honestly, ill just pick up a dock station one for about 60$ and never look back.

[@auzzierocks]

USB-PD 2.0 protocol errors. It has to negotiate properly to start outputting. the voltage meter you placed inline negotiates the protocols with the powerbank, rather than the iron itself. my powerbank refuses to charge on PD unless I use an inline voltage meter

[@insanegammer109]

Real question is, where can I buy those amazing looking silicone USB-C cables...

[@NicholasMaietta]

I second that. I've been looking but no luck.

[@john_hind]

@@NicholasMaietta It comes with the 'MORE US' kit. I just purchased this version from UK Ebay expecting to have to ditch the US power adapter. To my delight the PSU was multi-input voltage and the seller kindly threw in a UK/US adapter so it is perfectly usable. The silicone cable is superb and to my further delight it is not just power as expected but also works fine as a USB cable for firmware updating! In my view the silicone cable is essential as normal USB-C cables are too stiff for comfort and will melt if they come into contact with the hot iron.

[@StrongOneX]

I don't care about my ts100 plastic casing has totally disintegrated/crumbled up because the casings are easy to swap and cheap as chips. I haven't really felt like replacing the casing because I have it wrapped in self amalgamating tape for extra grip so it doesn't slide off the workbench. 24v laptop charger with soldered correct barrel plug and it rips, soldering 8awg no problem with leaded solder. Upgraded firmware from GitHub is amazing

[@presjar4016]

Hi Dave. The TC66 does not detect the current negotiated power standard when USB Power Delivey is active. It can only test if the power supply responds to delivery triggers. Device

[@haxxy40]

9:01 But there is an icon on iron that shows P (from PowerDelivery?). When you were using the battery pack, it was showing Q (quickCharge)

[@muppetpaster]

Dave tends to scream and cry wolf first and then finds out he was wrong......common issue with Dave.

[@johncoops6897]

@@muppetpaster - yep, he's not known for engaging brain before opening mouth.

[@testytesteberger6397]

by all accounts it seems to be working fine

[@zmonchamp]

TS100 is built cheap? News to me... Hey my Hakko handles are made out of plastic... JBC handles too... I've modified my TS100 to take standard T12/T15 tips... We get it you fanboy over the TS80 and hate on the TS100 out of some irrational need. Bias is real. TS100 is a different beast, but hey I've got a power pack that is similar to your Jackoffy, and lets me run 50W DC to my TS100. With my FX951 handle, my tip to grip distance is even better. Kitted out for the win! lol

[@kruppin]

Don't you need to set max power to 30 for it to use PD? You only set 24, which you can do with the old one as well for that matter. I guess it will test for and use QC3.0 first in case you only set 18 or 24, since most QC3.0 chargers can handle that, and there are much more QC3.0 power banks out there, atleast for now. Edit: With 4.46 ohm tip it can max do 2.69A (32w) at 12v. But that will change with temp as well, so in practice this maybe cant even output those extra 6w then original ts80 (with maxpower at 24w) unless they also drive it at higher voltage with PD? Anyway, I don't think there is a need to upgrade in case you already got a TS80 and a 24w qc3 powerbank.

[@perhansson6718]

Settings shows it's set to 32w at timestamp 13:03

[@f1ggyc]

Pretty sure the ts80 only goes to 9v and the 80p goes to 12v

[@EEVblog]

Makes no difference. And when connected to USB-PD< the power setting is disabled.

[@kruppin]

@@EEVblog Ah, ok, was just a thought. :) Thanks for the review btw. @George Brooke No, it goes to 12v when setting 24w with maxpower setting. Depending on supply you can draw 24w. So I say again, there isn't really any point in upgrading to TS80P if you already have a TS80. Unless you have a USB PD laptop and always have a USB PD power bank with you too, otherwise the setup I have with a good qc3 power bank and TS80 is excellent. I usually take my ts80 for all soldering jobs unless I need more power. Edit: An interesting thought for TS80P though, if you could overvolt it when running USB PD on custom firmware to get even more power. I guess the tips won't survive as long with higher voltage, but could only use higher voltage when using the "turbo button" for those extra beefy joints.

[@sanches2]

I have a TS100 and initially it was only for field work but now i have my ERSA80 collecting dust on the rack. This became my favorite soldering iron. It is good for professional work and it holds pretty well. Juat the case cracked near the tip tightening screw. I love it. I have also a JBC with a couple of tips, the performance is comparable.. having $ in mind.

[@Dutch-Maker]

I'm using TS80 as my daily solder iron for more then a year.

[@p10rambo]

How is the tip condition?

[@Dutch-Maker]

@@p10rambo I've had the TS80 for 34 months now. Still use the original tip. Has some signs of use, but still works fine. Always use a brass tip cleaner.

[@p10rambo]

@@Dutch-Maker thank you. Do u have any tips on preserving solder tips for lomg time, mine after months just seem to not heat up or accept solder...and this happens with many solder irons that I have

[@Alex-je6od]

Just purchased one from China. I've been lugging around the Hakko FX-901 for a few years now, and the batteries are always dead when I need it. Being able to plug into any reasonable USB C PD power source makes it a lot more attractive vs the Hakko.

[@zejin7491]

I am using TS100 with USB-C PD trigger with 20V from my PD power bank. Works perfect for me.

[@svanput]

if you dont like the plastic case the ts100 has, there are all metal ones for pretty cheap.

[@lighteningwawa]

I have the same usb tester. The protocol detection is a bit wonky. I used it on power supplies that don’t support QC at all (Apple ones), it would still say QC.

[@Blakehx]

Still seems a bit pricey but I’d still love one! My biggest complaint against most USB irons is the low power and the lack of replacement tips!

[@mreyeballz]

The springloaded tip release is useful when you want to exchange a hot tip during soldering. Likewise was the screw release on the old one. Cold tips can just be pulled out by hand.

[@GORMLESSwonder]

The Low Volt issue is such a common problem with the TS80, it's a shame they haven't sorted this out. The custom firmware off GitHub hasn't even been able to fully address this issue.

[@Conservator.]

Just pinch the USB-C connector and you won’t have that low-voltage message anymore!

[@Conservator.]

Here’s how I did that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5u8hpuFjdlghrs

[@GORMLESSwonder]

@@Conservator. Funny. It did feel like an issue with the contact, because it sometimes works when you wiggle or replug a few times. Did this solve it permanently?

[@Conservator.]

GormlessWonder I don’t use my TS80 that often but so far it has been flawless. (Wild guess >20x of use) Please let me know if this works for you too. (Just curious)

[@GORMLESSwonder]

@@Conservator. This has genuinely helped! I hope this gets some visibility and others try it out.

[@electrobits230]

Might be buying one of these. Have a TS80 and I love it, although I've had some issues with it. Even though I have other irons, this has become my daily just out of convenience.

[@drkastenbrot]

My ts80 does draw over 25 watts with a modified firmware and a capable powerbank. The powerbank is rated up to 12V 2A continuous and handles 3A bursts just fine.

[@TheDefpom]

@17:31 you changed the wattage from 18w up to 24/30w, try putting the wattage back down and trying again.

[@EEVblog]

Makes no difference.

[@jarrodhroberson]

I got my Hakko FX888D for $79 about 4 years ago at Frys. They are usually $89 on sale now days. Make more sense to get one of those for a dedicated bench iron. I will get one of these when I start doing RC planes again for sure!

[@shmuelglick4774]

I have the TS80. Had the same issue with power bank. You should lower the pwr setting. The are also firmware updates that solve these issues.

[@janbosenberg107]

So maybe wait for the second batch?

[@shmuelglick4774]

@@janbosenberg107 nah. Firmware is easy to upgrade via USB.

[@klopyrev]

The cable included with the soldering iron doesn't support power delivery. You need to use a power delivery cable.

[@shmehfleh3115]

I've had problems with USB PD battery packs not putting out their advertised power, and Jackery seems to be particularly bad in this regard. These days, I just take it as a given that I have to buy a higher-rated pack than what I need, just so it'll work.

[@PsiQ]

brian lough just made a video / pcb for using a usb-c powerbank ( 15v or 20v) / power supply to use with the ts100.

[@JohnDoe-rx3vn]

the TS80 can work with 5V2A power supplies if you flash the firmware. Maybe the TS80P would be similar?

[@james10739]

If you are using the ts100 with only a 12v supply you only get 17 watts I usually use about 19v which provides 40 watts and at 24v is the full 65watts

[@fluoxethine]

Sequre D60B with external PD 20V trigger cable can go up to 60W

[@upload00]

The silicon cane they give you won’t ever do over 9v, switched it out for a high quality pd cable (MacBook charger) and bam, all good 12

[@coolciaran69]

I've had my ts80 in my bag for about 2 years now, one of the best investments I've made. It does what I need for most jobs and super portable. When it dies I'll probably get the 80P.

[@stevetobias4890]

Cool portable iron. Would be good for soldering stuff in your car. Hefty price for a portable iron I would rarely use however.

[@StrongOneX]

Butane soldering irons are crap. You can power ts100 from cigarette lighter socket though

[@UltraNoobian]

Hot portable iron actually, haha.

[@swiftrick15]

I would not be soldering on a car. Unless you arw soldering a ECU mainboard in place. Soldering and wires that vibrate = NO NO. Proper crimping is the KEY

[@swiftrick15]

@ungratefulmetalpansy oh. As in 'From' his car. Understandable What I am saying is to never solder wires of a car. You crimp wires in a car, not solder. Solder is for circuit boards.

[@PinataOblongata]

​@@swiftrick15 That's just what Big Connector want you to think ;)

[@iblackfeathers]

just when i was wondering why eevblog hasn't covered the ts80p, here comes the video!

[@DoctorThe113]

I am also wondering why marco reps isn't saying anything about TS80P

[@BrianLough]

@@DoctorThe113 it's not the season for wild caps

[@DoctorThe113]

@@BrianLough LMAO

[@madhippo]

If you have a TS80 and want to use PD power banks there is no need to upgrade to the TS80P. Just get a 12V PD decoy module and a USB type C socket to make an adapter. This will request 12V from the supply, and provides the TS80 up to 24W. PD Decoy Module: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000459863567.html. It is also worth replacing the firmware with this one, to get selectable 9/12V input voltage. github.com/Ralim/ts100/wiki/TS-80

[@brad885]

Usb-c/qc is the way to go. It's capable of taking the wattage. Went to that standard 3 years ago with everything and never looked back

[@micnolmadtube]

I recommend using any TS iron as daily driver or main use or what ever Dave is not recommending. I have the ts100 and love it to bits. I also had a knowoff station with only lasted a year. So yeah.. the ts100 is king.

[@Hermiel]

The QC/PD thing is probably a firmware thing. Also you're not out of troubleshooting options. Change the cable.

[@executive]

no thanks. I'm still glad I paid the $20 more for a Hakko station. It's got a nice sturdy stand, nice cool foam grip, twice as much power, and no stupid fiddly buttons on the handle.

[@digitalradiohacker]

But - bUT ThIs on3 is P0w3red by UzB!

[@executive]

@@digitalradiohacker ermahgerd

[@dantheveganman]

awsome I was looking into getting the ts80 but am hesitant since it only had 18 watts, so this is great.

[@anthonylong601]

mate can you recommend one of the Hako knockoffs for an old man please ?

[@MBrulla]

But does Ralim run on the TS80P? That's what made my TS100 indispensable. I use it with a 6s lipo when on the go, and a normal AC/DC adapter on my bench. Never had an issue.

[@petermichaelgreen]

What i'd like to see in conjunction with this is a "hot storage" pouch, so that the iron could be packed away without waiting for it to cool down.

[@GORMLESSwonder]

I made my own! Look for silicone pouch for hair straighteners on amazon, and just trim it to size.

[@tuftman6092]

I prefer the TS100 despite the plastic housing, if they sold a replacement housing or a version 2.0 with a metal housing, I'd totally buy it though

[@yagoa]

A TS100 with pd-chip board on a 28awg silicone cable would not have these issues and be better in every way except length, it is no issue for getting into tight spaces

[@PhxSt0rmz]

Had my TS80 for a year, use a couple times a month, and the OLED died ( well, its super dim ). I guess from google it seems pretty common. Still use it, as I got the functions memorized. Just sucks the screen is basically useless now.

[@digitalradiohacker]

There we go. A part of the device that sees utterly ZERO wear and tear, and it has failed. Utterly laughable. I bought a mid 90's Metcal on Ebay about 5 years ago. It has a 2x16 LCD (simple & practical) and is 100%. I wouldn't be surprised if that soldering station is still on my bench in 20 years with no failures.

[@ianhastings6488]

My ES120 (also Miniware) screwdrivers oled screen has the same fault.

[@spudhead169]

Looks like they need to tweak the firmware for PD2.0. I'm assuming that it's seeing PD2.0 capability and then just asking for 12V @ 2.5A, the power bank is then saying "NOPE!" and refusing to switch, so you're getting the low volt. My guess is that they're ignoring the feedback and the capabilities report from the supply and just assuming it's going to comply. A small fix in the firmware to take note of the supply's capabilities so that it can ask for something the supply can do. And maybe, if there's error feedback when asking for power, to drop down a bit and try again.

[@natzzzy9119]

Ordered mine should arrive in a week (couldn't wait got DHL) should be a great help for those small jobs

[@YoutubeBorkedMyOldHandle_why]

2 years ago, I considered the TS100 and the TS80, but after due diligence opted for the Bakon 950D (on ali.) 75W, less than half the price even with 6 quick heating tips, silicon cable, very nice light grip, and super simple to use. I love this iron ... it has worked perfectly. Beats the pants off my soldering station. The TS80p looks like a cool little unit, and for some it may be just the thing. Still as Dave says, it depends on your needs. But is struggling with 'USB' portability really worth the effort? Personally, I don't see the need. Seriously, when am I going to be far from mains power? It's true, I cannot solder 'off the grid' with my little Bakon, but in all other respects it is just as portable and probably far more capable.

[@rattymahatty8456]

I think your power bank would need to be PD 2.0 compliant, but is PD 1.0? Does the USB power monitor also need to know about PD 2.0 to be able to negotiate for it?

[@EEVblog]

Even if it was, USB PD 1.0 can do 18W, so it should be backward compatible with that.

[@rattymahatty8456]

Maybe if given the choice it sees QC as 'better' than PD so defaults to that, perhaps because QC is an older standard? With love from the old dart.. :)

[@Johno2518]

I was just thinking the same thing, it probably checks the PD version, see's its 1.0 and then switches to QC since it probably determines that as being superior to PD version 1.0.

[@eideticex]

Say what you want about the plastic casing on the TS-100. I have had one in my tool box for the past several months, pull it out and use it to fix dodgy looking connections and splice wire where quality of the splice must not affect the signal. It's so small that the plastic is plenty strong. That's really my only complaint about the TS-100, tiny so it can get painful to use if you have been working days on end with your hands.

[@GeoffSteeleAU]

Thanks for the review Dave. Mine's ordered now!

[@xaytana]

I'm curious to see the future of these on USB 4. I'm not entirely sure what the power delivery on the USB 4 spec is, if it's even been disclosed yet, but I'm speculating that high wattage charging is going to become part of the standard on USB 4; think of laptop charging, like Apple's 96W type C charger. I know a 96W charger won't make this thing ultra portable, but it does make it a station-less unit that plugs directly into the wall. If USB 4 does support charging at a wattage that high, and we see an updated model that supports the full USB 4 spec, a portable little iron will not only be more powerful than the TS100 (65W), but it'll also be a replacement for bench top stations.

[@kain0m]

This highlights the issue with USB for Powering devices - there's too many incompatible standards. Legacy, Quickcharge, Power delivery, and then all the different proprietary standards. There's no telling if a device will charge with a power supply without spending a ton of time trying to figure out specs. And still, it will sometimes simply fail (like your initial test). And that is precisely the reason why I use the TS100. I know that if I have a 24V power supply, it will work. It also works with my hobby batteries, thanks to an XT60 to 5525 adapter.

[@Hammerjockeyrepair]

i just wish somebody would make an aluminum shell for the ts-100. It would then be the ultimate iron!! I use mine with my makita 18 volt batteries and it is amazing. It will solder anything I put infront of it and has done so for 3 years straight now building rf amplifiers and cb radios. The iron has to have thousands of hours on it now with the only issues so far being the shell breaking

[@BluRay_4]

The logo on the soldering iron really looks like aiwa's logo from 2004~2008

[@keyz182]

I litterally just got a TS100 yesterday because I wasn't a fan of the QC stuff and would have preferred PD. D'oh! Oh well, it's easy enough to get little USB-C PD boards these days so can whip up an adapter for 5525 to the TS100 if I really need to.

[@aviramiancovici93]

Got a new Thinkpad T490 from the office - I can now literally power a soldering iron from my laptop! neat.

[@petrkubena]

Most of what you get from the new one you can have with the old one with custom firmare(~30W@12V power), but USB-PD is very nice upgrade. There's already an open issue in the ralim firmware for TS80P and I would bet it will have better compatibility with packs. Btw - with that firmware you actually can use it with 5V USB (non-PD, non-QC), but it is extremely weak, it can barely reach 300C and it takes forever. Question - you have several times mentioned, that traditional soldering stations are better then this or TS100 for "serious" work (you even mentioned 20-30USD knockoff Hako), but didn't say how. Can you elaborate?

[@thetruthexperiment]

Camera pans around to reveal an actual kiwi wearing human gloves.

[@nuovovideo]

I have Ts 100. Try to power it at 24V it's a flash. And It works better also.

[@jonasniesner]

Another Potential problem is that most 45W PD Powerbanks do not have a lot of current available at 12V, the real power is at 15 and 20volts.

[@AlexKiritz]

My TS80 gives the low volt error after about a minute when I use it with the power adapter it came with.

[@digitalradiohacker]

Throw it in the bin and buy a Metcal on Ebay. Once you've used one, you will never look at another soldering iron.

[@bryantfloyd7471]

Quick Charge is no longer an industry standard anymore like it once was and has pretty much been replaced by Power Delivery. When Apple made there newer iPhone models wireless charge capable they went with Power Delivery instead of Quick Charge which made Power Delivery even more of an industry standard.

[@nicwilson89]

Honestly, a bench Hakko knockoff off eBay for £20-30 and some genuine Hakko tips makes for a really great soldering station. I've used one for years now. Pretty well calibrated and been used for all sorts of stuff over the years. Best 30quid I've ever spent on gear