EEVblog

[@FAMICOMASTER]

AND DO A TEARDOWN OF THE PS3!!!!!! Sure, there are alot of ps3 teardowns already on the net, but the internet needs a video of YOU tearing down the ps3, with YOUR COMMENTARY!

[@foxyrollouts]

Hes getting slack...but takes out 20 screws from stupid calculator

[@MasterYoshidino]

Shipping a PS3 fat in a slim box. Very fitting considering the fat was notorious for failures from bad thermal design and I had to get a slim as a replacement myself.

[@checkit53]

+Juan Reynoso i have my 60GB version since release, still works like a charm. Unlike 2 slims which i bought for my bedroom. Both had a broken BD drive. I think especially on forums and stuff, you'll read more from people who have problems, than from the ones without any. ;)

[@HaydenMeade13]

+Checkit53 Those 60GB were dope. I got an 80GB like 3 months after it came out and it failed on me twice. Graphics card the first time, BD second time. Got a slim, lasted me 2 years then sold it. PS for life

[@rmd2387]

+Hayden Meade interesting... I've had mine since 2007 and no issues with it ever. also to note it has gotten a substantial amount of use.

[@jacobcorr337]

+Juan Reynoso i STILL have my fat! works fine!!

[@EggiTheShadow]

I've had my 120gb slim for about 4-5 years now.. nothing wrong with it, cept it likes to reset itself every now and again, so i need to input the date and have to reconnect it to the internet to reactivate my bought digital game licences. Won't even consider the super slim, it looks like garbage, but i've been looking for a fat with ps2 backwards compatibility, since both my ps2 controllers are broken, and its hard to find controllers

[@EEVblog]

If it was brand new and there wasn't a thousand videos out their already, I might be a little more excited perhaps.

[@FennecTECH]

yeah theres a hundred million teardowns of the ps3 but we wanna see YOU tear it down

[@gompf]

..

[@FennecTECH]

gompf personaly im holding out for @Dave to tear it apart

[@FennecTECH]

thankies

[@martinda7446]

Re Yours is pretty good too.

[@FennecTECH]

*declares random furry hugs only zone*

[@chrismofer]

GODDAMNIT CINDY

[@zeroriserstheengineer2448]

Grown man and child alike can enjoy simple toys like the HexBug! :)

[@FranLab]

The robot bug went under the fridge?! Oh, crikey! In a week your whole house will be crawling with those little buggers! :-)

[@PoLoMoTo2]

Loved it when the hexbug went under the fridge looked like he was thinking "Its gonna blow!" so adorable

[@Steve-od2di]

Found this while searching for the Fluke chip I am trying to repair a Fluke 8000 meter. On the chip it says SC522 it is U3 on the schmatic. Here is the write-up of the chip. The Analog IC is an LSI device which contains a two-input multplexer, an amplifier, and a voltage controlled oscillator (VCO). The Part number from Fluke which contains multiple other parts is 345496, but it normally comes as part of the following parts "set': C14, C16, C R20, R56, R57, R58, AND U3 ARE A MATCHED SET. REPLACEMENT: ORDER "ANALOG RESISTOR SET", P/N 345496 Even Fluke's website does not list the part. And subsequent telephone conversations with Fluke indicate that they no longer have ANY relevant documentation on, or parts for, this meter.

[@starlite528]

"It's gone under the fridge!" ROFL Exactly where bugs belong, hahahahahaha!!!

[@guspaz]

My mom had one of those checkbook calculators growing up, which I used on occasion. The original idea was that it fit inside a checkbook case and stored the values in memory so that you could keep track of money spent over time instead of having to write it down on paper. Some googling indicates they were made between 1982 and 1983.

[@gglovato]

Dave, a quick search for Fluke P/n 345496 shows it's from a 8000A, U3 "The Analog IC is an LSI device which contains a two-input multplexer, an amplifier, and a voltage controlled oscillator (VCO)."

[@kaydenwilliams4377]

The YLOD overheat. What you have to do to fix this, is take apart the console, get to the logic board, get a blow dryer, and hover it over the logic board. Reassemble the console. and the YLOD will be gone. Hope this works for you Dave. From, Brandon

[@ZeroMass]

The PS3 uses a multi wavelength emitter laser diode. It would be interesting to see him make a project with stuff like this rather than just a quick comment on it. The diode has 3 outputs 405nm violet 650nm red and 780nm NIR. Run the 405nm and 650nm at the same time you get a pink laser *: )* No more than 25ma of current or it goes p00f! No more than 1mW output in a pointer either, or the .AU gov gets paranoid.

[@francistheodorecatte]

I have that same Fluke 70 Series II! I found it buried, new in box, in an old filing cabinet in my school's electrical classroom turned IT classroom.

[@dracomenda2]

that error is a simple solder flow failure on the CPU or GPU, classic error for any model after cech E01 and before the slims. green yellow red flashing LED error. I used to work for sony

[@hankus253]

This was a great mailbag Dave. Enjoyed all the bits very much.

[@quantumleap359]

28:15 through 28:50 a damn funny sequence! Dave, you are a funny dude! Keep up the vids, I really enjoy them.

[@peteyabit9488]

Its a ps3 GPU issue. The unleaded solder seems to be low quality amd after enough playing with dried out thermal paste the joints go cold. This is NOT a power issue or a disc issue. I have done extensive repair of these units over 250 units.

[@andykemnitz1225]

Electrics It can happen to the CPU or GPU.

[@peteyabit9488]

CPU ive never heard of one almost always gpu or southbridge. but ylod can happen for a number of reasons. Really any "cold" joint in the system can cause it. probably about 99% are GPU issues.

[@andykemnitz1225]

True, but it is possible for it to happen on the CPU as well. The odds are much smaller but it's not impossible.

[@peteyabit9488]

indeed however mentioning southbridge or cpu is pretty much a waste of time being as how rare they are.

[@petesmith13]

a fiducial is a spot on the pcb that is in a known location that the pick and place robot uses to get the correct part alignment, Dave said that it probably wasn't needed because it looked like the board was hand assembled. If you look up Dave's video on pick and place machines he explains it further in that video.

[@randylemn]

Your Fluke parts kit is an 8000A analog IC and the compensation components.

[@CH_Pechiar]

The board is from an SX model. It was from a friend of mine. It was spoiled from the batteries that leaked.

[@TheCrakkle]

You probably already know by now Dave. The Cannon check book Calc "Jumpers" these were silver loaded paint. very common where links are required and would have fouled the keypads. Also common in Philips car stereos saves solder links but they corrode causing a miriad of faults.

[@gfodale]

so, it's been a few years, but if it hasn't been answered, the fluke parts are for an 8000a DMM

[@jastervoid]

Those fluke parts go to the bench multimeter 8000A. Im sure someone has already mentioned that though.

[@Gameboygenius]

19:29 Solder? 19:59 Test connector? :O I think you forgot that's there's an LCD in this thing. That crud is the adhesive that used to hold the LCD in place, and the connector is for controlling the LCD.

[@CheeseNoodleOZ]

Hey Dave, those Fluke parts are for a Fluke 8000A DMM :)

[@dunzZzO]

I think a follow up video to the current noise density vs frequency and calculations is a great idea

[@totalrandomtechnolog]

Because your teardowns are unique. Damn even a simple calculator teardown done by you is thrilling. Please do it.

[@jorno1994]

His approach will be... unique. Really looking foward to it.

[@JAMESMANHUNT9]

red light is standby blue is disc activity green is system awake yellow is bad

[@CommodoreFan64]

Also wanted to add Arctic Silver seems to be the paste of choice when fixing a PS3 with YOL, and Arctic Silver themselves says to use the "Line Method" with a little wiggle on the heatsink when applying the paste.

[@stdlogic9038]

As we can see, Sagan already understands simple instructions , like TURN_ON(RIGHT_HAND) , PUT_DOWN(FLOOR). Well done!

[@lazydadsgarage]

I still have one of these. Remarkable that its never let me down. I use it as my only blu-ray player.

[@MrJeroendemuzikant]

Even here in the Netherlands we used to have a Tandy. And yeah you could walk in there and buy one resistor...or whatever part you needed to build your own stuff. Or repare someone elses.

[@grossstadthengst]

nooo Dave, please don't say "LCD-Display"...! (18:45)

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

grossstadthengst How I hate these comments...sorry but that's how I feel.

[@gonigeena]

I have no idea about moist of the stuff in these videos but I really enjoy watching them.

[@MUSTASCH1O]

Haha moist.

[@anita.b]

***** moist.

[@lordme88]

You made me moist.

[@GeorgeTsiros]

the big NEC "yorke" is the mixed mode CPU for the hp48 G series. the two ICs on either side are the LCD controllers. The quad flat pack is the rom if i recall correctly and the IC next to it is the RAM

[@redwolfbmh]

I quite enjoyed your noise video, and would give a vote for a current noise density video.

[@Raxiios]

I'd love a followup on the op amp video. The really educational videos are by far my favorites!

[@cuddles-ii6ns]

That's an external fan cooler unit most of those had cheap fans inside and wore out in no time. I had a Nyko fan and it sucked made loud noise after a few months.

[@arvydasruibys]

fiducials allow automated assembly equipment to accurately locate and place parts on boards. please read Fiducial marker wiki, pcb section

[@EEVblog]

Pretty bloody expensive would be my guess! In the hundreds of dollars range.

[@dinkc64]

test connector? thats where the lcd attaches :)

[@cu6511]

hahahha the postcard is german and says lovely greetings from space-time labs xD

[@mankee2211]

Lux Ferre And it's not beer on it, it's club mate :)

[@cu6511]

What u talking about

[@robertvaldimarsson2109]

+Lux Ferre "club mate" is the drink displayed on the german postcard, which dave thought looked like beer. it's a kind of tea that contains caffeine.

[@cu6511]

i tired it myself

[@robertvaldimarsson2109]

+Lux Ferre Just looked like Dave P's comment confused you. What was the "What u talking about" about, then? :P

[@CommodoreFan64]

Very true, as my neighbor had her original launch PS3 fry on her last year, and you could really smell the burnt chips, there was no chance of me repairing that one lol!

[@alessandrosaporetti9778]

Yeah the FLuke ic 522 IS definitely for a Fluke 8000 , I have one and it has two of them inside.

[@diete103]

I like longer mailbags. Thanks Dave!

[@excavatoree]

I've still got my teletype printer. The guy I got it from added a serial interface, and he and I used it with old heatkit computers from the late 70s/early 80s.

[@mixolydian2010]

Neat! I'm addicted to the blog now. Keep up the great work all the best to you and your family.

[@JWalterHawkes]

As long as we're looking at graphs there... popularity is not directly proportional to the quality of a video... I liked the noise video!

[@richfiles1]

There is a video game made for the Playstation 3 (and an updated sequel that'll be available for the Playstation 4 eventually) called "Little Big Planet". The game's create mode really sets it apart from most video games. Ever since LBP 2, they added digital logic objects to the create mode. I have seen all manner of devices created in the game, including numerous calculators and even a rudimentary 8 bit computer with a hex keypad and display that executes machine language instructions! "LBP2: Da Vinci CPU v2 - Brief Explaination and Demo" It's OBVIOUSLY no Spice, but it IS cool that it teaches people the basics of digital logic in the disguise of a video game! I'm HOPING that LBP 3 (for PS4 later this year) adds "truer" flip-flops, memory "chips", and buses. Their current implementation of flip-flops is not very true to what's commonly available, though you can make them from scratch from regular logic, of course. I made a 256 bit ROM chip in the game (8 bit x 32, 5 bit addressed), to use for general purpose program storage in game. Also made a lovely "smart" hexadecimal LED dot matrix display with 4 bit latching inputs... basically a clone of the old TIL311 with a slightly prettier, slightly higher resolution dot pattern. Also made a nixie tube in the game that clones the general look okay... I'd like to redo it sometime, make the numeral filaments thinner. I'm kinda waiting on the PS4 version myself, as I'm hoping they include some of the improvements I and others in the forums have suggested. They seem to have a good back and forth in their forums. The whole logic circuitry concepts were implemented in LBP 2, because they saw people use the pistons and the magnetic tags and sensors that were construction items in the first game to create digital logic. You put two pistons in line with one another, with a magnetic tag on the end, and a sensor at the end of the assembly, and you had an AND gate. Both pistons HAD to be extended for the tag to reach the sensor. A pair of Pistons side by side, with a tag sensor between operated as an OR gate. I don't recall the piston, tag, and sensor configuration for an XOR gate, but it also existed. All outputs of the tag sensors could be inverted as a setting, thus you had AND, NAND, OR, NOR, XOR, XNOR, and you could have a NOT by having a piston, tag and sensor by itself, with the output inverted. People made basic calculators in the original game, using these virtual electromechanical arrangements! "LittleBigPlanet : Little Big Computer" Media Molecule saw what people were doing by creating logic, so they just dumped digital logic into the next game int he form of "microchips" You placed a microchip into your created level, and then opened it. It provides a resizable working area to drop logic gates and other functional elements on, and then you wire them up. You can next multiple microchips within microchips, so it's real easy to create, lets say an SR Flip-Flop, a JK lip-Flop, a D Flip-Flop, a Half Adder, a Full Adder, etc... You created a common element and then reused it as needed inside other elements. You can even give away your created objects, chips included to people who play your level. As I said before, I and other forum users suggested many improvements that would make creation even easier. I suggested adding "memory" chips, because it would alleviate a good portion of circuit simulation in creating memory from individual elements of OR networks to simulate diode ROMS, or flip-flops to simulate RAM, by letting the system turn it into simple value tables, letting the simulation free resources for other creator content. Another area where performance could be gained in create mode, was the wire auto routing. The game autoroutes wires on the fly, but on large designs this can become a mess. I simply suggested the addition of busses with user dropped guide points. This would clean up the rats nest of wires, and alleviate some of the performance lost on rampant auto routing. My final suggestion was to simply add TRUE flip-flops, so we can stop relying on making them from scratch, and to teach people REAL logic device behavior! Basically, it was a fun way to introduce people to digital logic, via video game! I also learned that some of the less standard components have been being played with by some people to create "analog" circuits! There is one part that can be used in a fashion similar to that of an op amp. This guy is doing some amazing things with simulated analog parts! it also goes to show just how versatile the game's creation mode is! He's doing what amounts to an analog computer to add and subtract values. Sadly, the tools are less like real analog parts here, and it's full of bodges, but still, the creativity in this guy's work just oozes off the screen! "LBP2 - Analog Memory Cells & Other Useful Electronics?" If you ever manage to snag a PS3, try to find a copy of Little Big Planet 2, just so you can see what a few of the creative minds out there have done with it's virtual electronic components! sorry for not actually including the videos, but Google has been messing with the visibility of some comments, so you'll just have to go copy and paste the titles of the videos I list below into your search box. Getting tired of Google shenanigans... Look up "Ghost Comments" if you want to know more.

[@automaster209]

Probably fits something like my Fluke 77 that I first purchased when I was working on the computer controlled cars back in the 1980's.

[@astrogirl1usa]

Sagan is so cute!

[@frillneckedlizard8529]

in the netherlands they charge 23 euro's if they inspected the package so basically if someone send you a package you sometimes don't even know what it is but you just have to pay for it.

[@CommodoreFan64]

Yep even the original Wii has it's share of heat issues, I keep one as a spare Netflix box in the guest room, and when in standby it gets warm, so I keep it horizontal, and keep cheap USB laptop cooler under it, which helps.

[@jusb1066]

nice mixed bag there, and loved the end part with Sagan +1

[@Psychlist1972]

My son made a big LEGO maze for those little hexbug nano last week. You can find them pretty much anywhere in the US. Great little robots. Ignore the online crap.

[@EEVblog]

Why? there are countless ones on youtube already.

[@cesarcarvalho116]

13:20 it's, a Hewlett-Packard 48 series calculator board.

[@theLuigiFan0007Productions]

#EEVblog Please take it apart, I wanna see whats inside of it in a "professional" teardown. As for the YLOD from what iv read and heard about it in the past, its bad CPU/GPU ball joints, the HDD is faulty or overheating if the beeps are long and 1 second each. Overheating can lead to bad CPU joints, though. The PSU is also possible (as for nearly all cases). Pretty sure it is bad joints caused by thermal stress or small tin crystals from the lead free solder. For proof I got this off the internet "Mate, as a degree qualified Electronics Engineer, working towards chartership you don't need to tell me what causes YLoD, and it's not overheating, it's the BGA connections that eventually crack due to constant heating and cooling cycles causing thermal stress in the lead free alloy which is used at the factory. Sometimes it can be caused by tin wiskers which are small crystals that form and can cause shorts between connections, tin wiskers can grow at a rate of 0.5mm per year and when you see how close the pads are on the GPU it becomes apparent that tin wiskers could be liable for the issue. Leaded solder does not suffer from this because first of all lead supresses tin wiskers and has done for the last 50 or so years leaded solder has been used and nothing else has been found that can supress it as well as lead can. Not to mention lead is more maliable than lead-free solder and as such is less prone to cracking from thermal stress. Also, during a reball you are replacing the old already thermally stressed balls with fresh ones. A reflow does not do that so the balls are still prone to cracking, hence reflows can fail very often. If the CPU or GPU overheat then the console shuts down with a flashing red light (RLoD) and no yellow light appears. Heat is the cause of YLoD due to constant heating and cooling cycles, but the main issue is the lead free solder that was introduced in 2006 due to RoHS & WEEE directives. Hence BGA failures have become more common as of recent since lead free solder came into force." This was regarding someone's issue with this here: www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=30700&page=3&p=292282#post292282 I guess a heat gun could do some good towards fixing that, but you dont wanna kill the CPU by cooking it so you would have to be careful. Either way I wanna see a teardown. Have a nice day.

[@MultigrainKevinOs]

Huzzah a graphing calculator was my guess at 13:13! Glad to see it was a beloved HP 48, no engineer should be without one. I dread the day when mine goes (48GX).

[@8bits59]

17:57 this image should show up when you google the word "crusty"

[@quigon87yt]

NANO [Bristle] Hex Bug going under the Fridge was totally worth it.

[@jonmajors3311]

Yes! 707 Humboldt county California, redwoods! And as far you saying there is probably no value to you doing a teardown of the ps3, your opinion is always valued. Thanks for the videos

[@Siniverisyys]

LOL... another immortal quote (re: the magic jack) "yechh... metallized plastic... it just makes your skin crawl, it really does"

[@theLuigiFan0007Productions]

Your video about noise in opamps was very interesting to me, I dont understand why it wasnt very popular either. I know the older version (I think?) of the Xbox had a similar problem with joints, but it was the GPU if I remember correctly.

[@kjetilv]

How nice that the letter arrived, hadn't expected it to make it that far so fast ;-) I have no idea what meter the Fluke parts are for, we only had the bags with the parts, and none of the meters. This bag was the oldest in the bin. I have a short video of the teletype in my channel, yt-video fqASeTzb9dE

[@OverKillPlusOne]

Sagan's reaction to the hexbug was priceless!!

[@KyleXe]

Now they're preserved and free from static.

[@TheDigigram]

The Fluke missing a u3 seems to be a Fluke 8000A and it seems like you have a teardown of it on the blog by Reagle!!!

[@1jzcelicasupra]

"Who needs religion when you've got this" had to have been the best thing I've ever heard.

[@Fuzy2K]

The screen on that Sony reader might be fine. Mine has a similar "cracked screen" look when the battery dies. Recharging it might bring it back to normal.

[@berni8k]

I think your opamp noise video was really good. I been in electronics for a long time and have probably learned a thing or two from it.

[@general0ne]

Cool checkbook calculator! I actually have one of those (somewhere), complete with it's matching fake leather checkbook. When I was younger, I used to use that, along with Q-basic Money Manager on my Sharp PC-7100 to keep track of my finances...

[@x9x9x9x9x9]

It is but is a third party device and they make these things with out any real understanding of aerodynamics/gas dynamics. So by forcing this excess air into the device you are making air go to area it isn't needed as much and removing air from areas it is needed more. Thus causing strain on the internal fans that remove air.

[@motoXcR]

the best thing about phats is how well they fit in the trash

[@BenofkentProps]

Cool a death to the daleks Dalek!! Not only me that built one then!! Great video looks fun.

[@LukasFink1]

If I would work in the australian post office all of your post would get open :D

[@chemtype]

Sagan is growing so fast! I feel like if I miss a few videos he might grow up.

[@greenmanmo]

I think it was made by Siliconix now Vishay Siliconix. The parts kit is for a Fluke 8000A Meter Couldn't find a datasheet but I think its an Analog converter Cheers

[@w02057]

To permanently fix it you would need to reball the graphics / CPU chip's BGA, thermal stress causes the lead free solder balls to crack, lose connection then the console fails.

[@laser-sj]

"...and the correct technical term is crusty.." Brilliant !

[@tehcovmeme]

follow up to the op-amp noise video would be a good idea for the sake of completion, I found it useful (although I am lazy when it comes to reading up on my electronics.)

[@TheDejfson]

Whoops. The cern t-shirt is actually bought via our internal ordering system. This was not sold in our shop but rather paid by some budget code :-)

[@peteypavello]

its the GPU its got microfractures in the solder which causes an electical fault a reflow/reball is needed which im sure many people have told you

[@tracyguilbeau]

it's gone under the fridge..... most bugs do. :)

[@ObviousSchism]

"They don't make 'em like they used to - I'm glad" I'm glad too :)

[@BrendanOrr]

Dave, that is the dreaded "yellow light of death" which the bga parts lose connections due to thermal stress. The most popular fix is a trip through a reflow oven(or as another commenter stated, a heat gun). This same issue happened with my ps3. Not having the confidence in myself I'll have it repaired by somebody else in the future. That and my fiance would kill me if I turned out toaster oven into a reflow oven!

[@technogeek48]

yep, it seems this issue is more prevalent in original PS3 Fat versions. A similar ''phenomenon'' can be observed in original XBox 360 as well. It would have been great at the time to discover that there is no console you could buy without it kicking the can after the warranty is over!

[@mymagicsigns]

Dave you are right, there are allot of teardown videos for playstation 3 but no one explains every component like you do.

[@3HACKRZ]

you are spot on with the overheating. A common problem with newer consoles with making the console short and the silicone layer on the processor two small causing the chip to overhead what I can imagine causing it to melt the solder points and off set the chip. MOORS law is getting further and further away i think they need a better solution than silicone

[@whayden001]

LMAO, "Oh it's gone under the fridge!" Beauty, classic.

[@skonkfactory]

"Heartfelt greetings from the SpaceTimeLab", in fact, on that German postcard.

[@technogeek48]

I agree, but when it overheats that much, it will eventually unseat itself (or burn to a toasty crisp :P)

[@flipkibblez]

If you are to take it apart and clean it, It might works again cause mine did that before i cleaned it.

[@Gin-toki]

I really hope you make another video about op-amp noise. I find those kind of things quite interesting about electronics :)

[@Portal12345678910]

Because we need your point of view! As an electrical engineer.

[@puma4646don]

PS3 could easy be fixed, not over heating. Cell processor (GPU) needs a re-flow/re-ball. I do this every other day, and I can hazard a guess the model number would be CECH-G. Have a go in another video!

[@doublebasslacy]

the cell is the cpu and is rearly the fault normally its the rsx (gpu) and it is indeed in need of a reball lol carnt beleive its still got the warranty seal :facepalm:

[@rich1051414]

Well, overheating is the cause of the de-soldering. The older models did not have an adequate heatsink, but a reflow will temporarily fix it until it desolders itself again.

[@doublebasslacy]

a reball is not a reflow and de soldering is not what happens when the ylod or rrod is present thermal shock causess cracks and dry solder joints it does not desolder itself so please educate yourself before you speak...also over heating is because of the thermal paste under the ihs being of poor quality and old.......noddy... btu by crackedsolder

[@puma4646don]

Ooops! Yeah your right, RSX is the correct name (Excuse the brainfart, I posted this at 3AM or so) :P The cracks in the solder are also attributed to the use of lead-free solder balls, which don't handle the flex of the PCB during the heat/cool cycles as well as their leaded counterparts. The heatsink and fan are MORE than adequate, if you ever pull one apart you will see what I mean (they are huge!) The fan speed however is pathetic and doesn't cool well enough, that is only part of the issue though!

[@arduinoandbasicstamps5781]

My MagicJack works pretty good. And when you consider it is $60.00 for 5 years.