EEVblog

[@TechnocraticBushman]

Says short video, keeps it a little under 14 minutes. Says he's not doing an tutorial channel and manages to be a top resource to go to. Pure gold! You can almost get 20 years worth of EE experience just by listening to Dave going into all the little minutia. You can actually get a "feel" for this stuff and feel confident enough to do build your own charging circuit just by watching this video.

[@undefinednull5749]

them gatekeepers

[@kmonyt]

Nice video. I've got a Rigol DP832, no doubt because you've shown/reviewed/talked about it here. A video showing how to use some of the advanced features would be useful to me! Many of these devices are similar....the concepts would transfer to other makes and models...

[@ab_ab_c]

The safe max charging V for that Panasonic cell = 4.25V The recommended charge cut-off A = 65mA (which is 0.02C, not 10% of the CC). Thanks for sharing. p.s.: If you want to get max cycle life out of the cell, it is recommended to charge it to a max V of 4.1V & not discharge it more than 20% when using it. >= 50% DOD really creates a significantly shortened cell life.

[@OrbitalSP2]

A B Buying a cell to discharge it no more than 20%....no thanks.

[@ab_ab_c]

OrbitalSP2: Well, your power needs may be quite different than someone who wants optimal cell life--which is fine--you'll just consume more cells & pay more $ for your power needs than a person seeks optimal cell life.

[@OrbitalSP2]

A B I know what you say is true. But i just avoid discharging more than 80%. I mean discharging only 20% only, I can't even see in what aplication that might be useful. 20 minutes runtime in a flashlight?

[@ab_ab_c]

+OrbitalSP2 A flashlight that isn't used much or often is a perfect example. I have a high power flashlight that I use occasionally around the house & I rarely use it for longer than 5 minutes in a day. A remote control that is placed on a wireless charging mat when not in use would be another good example.

[@OrbitalSP2]

A B they degrade with time, even by doing nothing with them. So I'd rather use them from 20 to 90% or 20 to 100%. Unless you live in a very very cold country, the ambient temperature is killing them anyways...

[@FrenchmansFlats51]

you are missing a heavy schottky diode on the charge circuit (like a SR360) to protect the supply from reverse polarity on the Li battery.

[@telemedic5142]

Thankyou for this simple to understand tutorial. I now understand, mystery revealed :)

[@ntag411]

The thing today is reviving a dead battery back. Personally to me the method used by many is to zap the pack, with a like good battery by connecting the packs in parallel for seconds, is haphazard. While it is politically not proper for the consumer to rejuvenate a pack, having to scrap a pricey pack within months of purchase is a waste. The pack I rejuvenated is a 18v, 36AH Hoover Links vacuum cleaner. It consists of 5 18650 cells in series and with a large circuit board. Each cell measured 0.14v except one, that one cell was 0.010v. This cell I charged at 15mA with the supply set at CC. The corresponding voltage was 0.5v and CV set to the same. Once the supply switched from CC to CV, I gradually, increments, set the CV higher while keeping the CC the same. Initially the supply took about an hour to switch from CC to CV, this change caused the current of 15mA to go 0.0mA. Eventually ended the charge on each cell at 4.0v with CC at 200mA, once the cell voltage reached 4.0v the charge current will drop to 0mA. The pack appears to work OK now but unknown as to life compared to non rejuvenated pack. The battery packs appear to run at high drain because the vacuum only runs for 15 minutes when the motor goes noticeably slower and the power low battery indicator flashes. I suggested to the users of the vacuum to stop using when the indicator flashes/or sound of motor becomes weak. Do not run until it dies.

[@jockemustafa]

Thanks for uploading this. This made me finally charge my Canon camera LP-E6 battery with a constant current on 650mA and when reaching the maximum voltage of 8.4v i changed over to constant voltage and see exactly the same where the current starts dropping! Wow, i really need the camera tomorrow and you made me do it! Best youtuber EU! (i know you're not in the EU)

[@JasperJanssen]

The capacity graph in the data sheet says it switches from cc to cv at about 80-90%, not 50%.

[@EEVblog]

It can be quite chemistry/manufacturer dependent.

[@ArionRaine]

Actually, it should say when the charger should switch from CC to CV. not when the cell does.

[@System0Error0Message]

you gotta try this with your phone's battery. No danger of cheap wall usb chargers and faster charging.

[@osmoregulator]

Great video bro, but at the beginning of the video you tell that you don't know the cut-off current, albeit it is written clearly on the datasheet and you will reference it later.

[@EEVblog]

That's because I didn't see early in the video when I recorded that.

[@biggavdemille]

Think you should have mentioned why the cells cannot be charged in series (@8.4 - 12.6 etc). Also i thought a single was a "Cell" and more than 1 "Cell" is a Battery (which makes this a cell) ? Good work though.

[@Kingshukpalchoudhury]

I have a confusion.. While you say the charging current should be 1/2c.. so for a 3400mah , it is set at 1700ma But what about when charging a power Bank made out of say 2 of these.. What should be the charging current then.. And, if the constant current is set at lower than 1/2c, i understand it will take longer to charge, but does it have any effect on its life span? Also, at some point you said that the constant voltage phase reduces life cycle..so does that mean we should omit it ? At what percentage of battery capacity does that constant voltage phase usually start? So is there a range in which there is a maximum life span? Is it the recommended 20-90 percent?

[@svampebob007]

"The cut off point is 175mA for example, it doesn't show that here" Nobody reads the datasheets for the data am I right? :) _Charge: CC-CV 0.5C (max) 4.20 (Blaze it), _*_65mA cut-off_*_ at 25 Celsius_

[@jeffreysanchez9964]

I needed this video. It helped me thanks.

[@ikorin]

Hi Dave, could you please comment on the document from Rigol "Active loads and the RIGOL DP800 and DP1000 Series". It says "an external diode should be used to prevent the flow of current into the supply and prevent damage of the power supply".

[@ikorin]

But the problem with a diode... the voltage drop depends on "forward" current. I think it will be hard to apply precise 4.2V to the battery.

[@unknownNODE]

Awesome video Dave!

[@jamesebody]

You little ripper! Love it!!

[@jedijeremy]

I didn't hear you mention the 'precharge' part of the cycle... If the cell voltage is below a critical value (usually around 3.2 volts) it's supposed to be bad to whack lots of current in at first... datasheets I've read say to trickle it up to nominal voltage, and _then_ go to the main constant current charge mode. I'm not sure of the exact chemistry reason, (may be a LiPo thing more than LiIon) but the feature's built into charger chips at a hardware level, so it's probably important. Not usually an issue unless you run batteries flat and then forget about them for months. But isn't that what happened here?

[@EEVblog]

I did briefly mention it and covered it in my previous tutorial video linked in.

[@asusreviews]

Yep. Many charging IC's do a soft start at 10% of their normal charge current if the cell voltage is

[@jedijeremy]

EEVblog Ah, sorry. My bad. Must had missed it. I watched the first one ages ago.. clearly I forgot/missed it there too.

[@sciencoking]

On the topic of the charging voltage being 4.20V +/- 1%: Couldn't I just play it safe and not exceed, say 4.1V? I would sacrifice some capacity, but that should be enough to get the battery quite near its nominal capacity, give me plenty of tolerance for my power supply and mitigate the overcharging issue.

[@TheDenzel2112]

He literally says exactly that in the video, at 6:28 ...

[@EEVblog]

Yes you could, as I mentioned in the text overlay. 4.1V is a common safe value.

[@KingNast]

He actually put a note at the top of the screen about exactly this at 6:26. (increased cycle life at the expense of less charge capacity)

[@sciencoking]

EEVblog Thank you Dave. My bad. Classic case of asking too soon :)

[@GiGaSzS]

If you do that you will even increase the number of charging cycles before the battery capacity falls down considerably. The only penalty is lower charged capacity (when charging to 4.1V instead of 4.2V), but not much cca. 15% lower. Source: batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

[@user-rn3eb2jn5t]

Hi great video! If a battery's rated capacity is 6820 mAh, do you set your power supply's current to 6.8 amps?

[@MrFrazierNation]

Thank you, sir!

[@stargazerweerakkody8254]

Nice!!! this is the video i needed!!Nice explain!!😁TKS

[@abdulazizalkaabi3627]

Can I use the same method to charge (18650) 36V 9600 Ah battery pack?

[@zm7160]

You should do one for car batteries. I used a bench PSU the other day, to get my car battery up from 12.1 to 13.0V, (changing at 14.4V and between 400-250mA over 3~5 hours) enough to start the engine.

[@rageagainstthebath]

That's what I did a lot when I was struggling with electric system in my motorbike. Most bike batteries can be safely charged with 14.2V and 1A (it's C/10 for 10Ah battery). That's what the Yuasa battery manual says, and I trust all of them are similar. By the way, all the motorbikes I've seen in my life had no current limiting capability, the regulator simply holds 14.2-ish volts and that's it. Actually by limiting the current on your bench PSU you're doing a big favor to your battery.

[@Subparanon]

A question. Say that you wanted to charge a battery while it's in use. Similar to how a laptop charges it's battery with the power on. I take it that all you would need is a battery charger in parallel with the battery that is capable of putting out enough current both to power the device as well as top up the battery. Since the charger would limit voltage to 4.2 and reduce amperage as the battery charges, this should work right? I want to convert a remote control vehicle to be able to self charge with a dock and always be on, for a security robot.

[@БогданМура]

When my 18650 at 3.5 can get current 25A and be at 3.5V, what happened? 🤔

[@edinmarroquin7779]

Great video, Is it possible to charge 10 batteries in parallel using the same concept. If so do you increase the current by 10 times? for example if one cell safe charge current is 600amps putting 10 in parallel is safe to charge at 6amps??? Thanks

[@swsephy]

In before the next reupload :)

[@electricsnut]

Dangerous? Like Note 7 charging dangerous? :)

[@lbeau819]

Dave, I can use a cheap manual set plugin mains timer + a mains relay to disconnect the batt + after 4hrs. Now, what's the situation with the diode mentioned somewhere below? What type and how connected or just thought, would it be at all necessary with my relay?

[@timothycampbell4705]

You say to charge it for 4 hours. But what if the battery was not completely dead? What if it was halfway charged or three quarters of the way charged? Should you still charge it for 4 hours?

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

No. Although you're unlikely to badly damage the battery in 4 hours so long as the constant voltage and current are correctly set.

[@lolvivo8783]

Thanks nice tutorial. Few questions, 1.In cc mode if voltage supply exceeds 4.2 v does it damage battery before it reaches cv mode? 2.Can u plz explain how ev dc fast charging works? 3. Also how charging efficiency is managed. Thanks a lot Dave.

[@soothcoder]

Umm potentially stupid question - so if you had a funky multi-channel PSU like yours, could you connect adjacent channels and charge a multi-cell battery safely? So connect channel 1 minus to battery minus, channel 1 plus to balance port between cell 1 and 2 and to channel 2 minus then channel 2 plus to next balance port and so on until plus of last channel goes to battery plus

[@cfcreative1]

Can you do say 8AA batteries in series at the same time?

[@jonggeronimo7056]

in constant current mode, can i use my constant current circuit 12v supply 500ma? then if the batt voltage is 4.2v ill disconnect

[@NunoRVOliveira]

I have a 4.2v transformer that outputs 500mA and if I draw more current the voltage drops but it never goes above 800mA. Am I doing something wrong or is this a good way of charging my 18650?

[@eerdem79]

Hi dude, I have a cheap Chinese dc-dc converter with specification cv/cv and charging li-ion batteries. When I tried to charge 18650 batteries with this converter, I set the constant current to 0.5A, but the output voltage of converter increased to 5.0 volt. Do you think it is normal? Do I care about this or don't charge the batteries with this converter/charger? Besides, if increase in voltage is normal. Which should be done to pass constant voltage charging? To wait the battery plugged to converter and the voltage is 4.2 volt or the battery not plugged to converter and the voltage is 4.2 volt? I hope you reply my questions. Thanks in advance.

[@Shanjaq]

I have an HY6003D bench DC power supply and for some reason the voltage and current readings are extremely inaccurate! I turn it up so it reads "2.5 volts" and an external multimeter reads 12.7 volts! I haven't tested the current reading but I'll have to assume it's just as inaccurate.. Has anyone had a bench DC power supply do this, and what can I do to fix it?

[@terrymackamckenzie6865]

Will this trick work on a Samsung Galaxy Note 7? Just bought about a 1000 of the little rippers for a bargain price, need to charge them all at the same time.

[@stargazer7644]

Just put 'em all in series and plug 'em into the wall socket. You'll be good to go in no time.

[@CoolKoon]

Star Gazer Actually with wall sockets being powered with 230 volts that would put a whopping 0.23 volts of AC on each cell. That'd hardly make the effect you were hoping for, would it?

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

You could charge them all at the same time, if you have a 1,500A charger... Realistically, you're better off charging maybe 10 at a time each from a separate charger. Charging circuits are cheap and you can generally get 10 for a few bucks from China. Unless you're going to use the notebook itself for charging, in which case you're better off just using the chargers supplied with them.

[@robh1908]

I find these videos better than porn. I love repair and learning about the way electronics work with out having to do the paperwork. Hands on only is the way I like to learn. I hated having to have to study in school. But wow, put me on something electrical, mechanical or in this case electronical. (Huh! just learned there is no such word as electronical). I would absorb it like a sponge.

[@Xava2011]

Or just buy 15$ microprocessor charger like imax b6

[@erhanalankus]

Why not chinese charging circuits for a buck?

[@asusreviews]

Some of those IC's are dangerous. I tested some really bad ones a while ago that terminated the charge at 4.27v. I stick to real microchip IC's on my charger circuit boards. They are not expensive at like 50 cents per IC.

[@MrOpenGL]

TP4056 is not bad at all, assuming it is the genuine TPower one. Extremely cheap even the genuine one. It is used in the EE powerbar as well. Its only limitation is that it is linear (and has a 1A max charging rate)

[@specialformula14]

was wondering if someone could help me out here.. i have this portable speaker.. it has 2x 3.7v 1500mah li-ion 18650 batteries inside it .. i was wondering if i could just get 2 bigger MAH batteries same voltage and have longer run time ????

[@rudigerhoppe5708]

How do I charge a 4s1p pack of those cells? 16,8V, same current, same timing?

[@chrispychickin]

buy a balancing charger for 20 bucks - or if you're a cheapskate, hook into individual cells through the balance lead, and charge them like in the video, 4 times

[@rudigerhoppe5708]

+Chris Tate I did buy one, it's on it's way from China. I did it single cell just to see the results. Works. But you know what? Battery still is empty and I would like to charge it a bit faster than 4 times 4 hours. Thanks for the help.

[@ЮраНазаров-я3й]

No 7W !

[@damedaE90]

3400 mAh.... Curious, how much u can really drain.. 😁

[@robh1908]

That would make a great follow up video. He has the equipment to do it too.

[@sokolum]

there are simple measuring tools for this, I am using something similar like this: www.dx.com/p/digital-display-portable-usb-power-voltage-current-meter-tester-charger-doctor-for-power-bank-phone-383562#.V8n-cMuxXqB

[@Unordung]

I use this as the USB doctor uses the power from the cell and as such alters the consumption. Besides a constant current load is much quicker and more accurate. www.ebay.com.au/itm/Constant-Current-Electronic-Load-9-99A-60W-30V-Battery-Discharge-Capacity-Tester-/281848513136?hash=item419f7b0270:g:F3AAAOSw0JpV3yfr

[@ABaumstumpf]

If it is a decent quality one? You can actually expect > 90%. If the load-current isn't too high, than you might as well get to the range of 98% The top LiPos can even have total efficiency of above 95%.

[@robh1908]

+Johann Wyss Wow been looking for something like that for a while. Going to order one thnx. Ordered from Banggood :)

[@redresistor1330]

My torches use FIRE!!! ...because I'm from Murica!!

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

Is this also possible with one of those cheap 35 bucks power supplies that have only one rail where you can set the voltage (usually up to 30V) and current (usually up to 3A), or does the power supply need to have some kind of "intelligence" to it?

[@superdau]

If you can limit voltage and current, it's fine, as long as the values are stable once set. Many PSUs can easily drift .1 or .2V if running for an hour or two (so watch that or it gets dangerous). And don't rely on built in meters for the values, check with a multimeter.

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

superdau Danke! :) Although my 30€ multimeter won't be that accurate either. So better safe than sorry, I'll probably set it to 4.05V or something like that.

[@MrOpenGL]

4.10V is enough to charge the battery up to 80%. It also doubles its life at the expense of less capacity.

[@Deipnosophist_the_Gastronomer]

Click here ... Where?

[@RannoRannikmaa]

7103 cells more and you have a tesla battery :)

[@jenelmarian9946]

Making use of the kzbin.infoUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type

[@EEVblog]

Sorry for the re-uploads, I wanted to remove most of the the voltage drop stuff to avoid confusion and constant emails and messages and comments for the next 5 years.

[@JustinAlexanderBell]

What was the problem?

[@sokolum]

🖒

[@Hasitier]

And i thought youtube does not like your videos anymore ;-)

[@sokolum]

+Fermioncool Fermioncool I assume the voltage drop could be seen as a extra security, at the batteries emd you will never go beyond 4.2, again I assume.

[@SadeXo1]

Dave, maybe this is a small video, but the topic is very popular in recent times, and every mistake can be noticed and stigmatized that it is not repeated.

[@Forssa1]

Wanna hear a joke? Batteriser.

[@KingNast]

Lab power supplies aren't the same as batteries. Batteriser proved it!

[@brk932]

FUCK OFF! .... in a ten minute video they CONTRDICTED THEMSELVES SEVERAL TIMES. Boost converter is ALREADY EXISTENT IN MOST (>90%) DEVICES THAT COST MORE THAN 10$. Also their claims are unfounded SINCE THE POWER CAPABILITIES OF ALKALINE BATTERIES DETERIORATE. EVEN IF YOU INCREASE THE VOLTAGE THE CURRENT WON'T BE ENOUGH due to rapid increase of internal resistance after 1.25 V. Anything more powerful than 2 Watts cannot benefit from a boost converter after that voltage. Claims that typical alkaline batteries use about 20% of their available energy ARE PURE BULLSHIT. BATTERISER, if it works optimally and does squeeze every last drop out of alkaline batteries (and does so safely), is probably going to increase typical battery life by about 20%, not 800% HERE IS THE MINIMAL VOLTAGES THAT COMMON CHEAP DEVICES REQUIRE: autofocus camera with flash: 1.3v halogen flashlight: 1.3v regular flashlight: 1.2v headphone/CD player: 1.2v portable LCD TV: 1.2v pencil sharpener: 1.2v AM/FM radio: 1.0v electric shaver: 1.0v quartz clock: 1.0v remote control: 0.8v Microsoft cordless optical mice have a cutoff voltage of 0.6v, and Logitech mice of 0.8v ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS SWAP THE BATTERIES TO A DEVICE THAT CAN USE THE REST OF THE AVAILABLE CAPACITY

[@KingNast]

+Krasimir Ivanov Dude, it was a joke. Calm yourself.

[@brk932]

I thought you were serious. WHEN IT COMES TO SNAKE OIL PHYSICS I NEED TRIGGER WARNINGS.

[@brk932]

@Phil Weatherley You catch more flies with vinegar! I was pissed. LOL

[@tohopes]

You could put your power supply on a cheap outlet shut-off timer if you didn't have a fancy expensive power supply. 3:20 I'm commenting on that 3.5-inch digital multimeter again. Watch out for that first step, it's a doozy.

[@shiftyjesusfish]

Thanks for the idea, 100% gunna use that one

[@ianhosier4042]

I have been charging 18650 cells on my lab supply for years. Set the current to 1A and the voltage to 4.2v per cell. Stop charging once the current is reduced to 100mA. Sometimes I charge overnight with a current limit of 250mA and again stop the charge when the current reaches 100mA. I have started experimenting with TP4056 modules which automatically stop the charge which is quite handy for unattended charging.

[@snorttroll4379]

what aliexpress supply can do this stuff?

[@DanielBerzinskas]

max is 1C

[@gionnic8922]

Nice video! Thanks!! Any chance you could do a follow up or give a base explanation of how to charge a Lithium ion pack with cells in series and parallel?

[@bradleymorgan8223]

It's been mentioned, but military tech only charges lithium batteries to 3.9v. Maybe 80% of the capacity, but close to 5 times more charge cycles.

[@live4491]

Yes, at a "storing" voltage... exactly right

[@robertvaldimarsson2109]

Rigol actually has an app note, warning you not to hook up batteries, without at least a diode as protection, since the DP832's inputs are apparently very sensitive to being fed with voltage or current.

[@stargazer7644]

Thanks, I was looking for that. I was sure Dave mentioned this in a previous video. He must have forgotten.

[@MarshallSmith27]

I'm about to buy my first power supply. I will be charging the occasional cell with it and powering amplifiers and small circuits. Should I be looking for Linear or Switching?

[@CoolKoon]

Marshall Smith Are there any adjustable linear power supplies on the market?

[@OfflineSetup]

can I suggest a second video where you explain the problem of the original?

[@bilaloz4319]

Also do a how to safely discharge video please, cheers !

[@H3adcrash]

I remember when Chris Boden of The Geekgroup kicked me out of their IRC for explaining how you do this. According to him it's insanely dangerous and should never be done. He seriously knows fuck all about a lot.

[@nickjohn2051]

Why it is dangerous? This is Li ion not LiPO battery. So the explosive is not in the equation. Also Li Ion already has built in BMS or PCB nowadays to protect battery from overvoltage or undervoltage. Any specific information about how do you kick from IRC? He should explain why it is dangerous and the explanation behind it.

[@H3adcrash]

You ask him.. He apparently knows more than anybody else in this world. He's also the guy who claimed that Corning optical USB cables don't work because "USB is a fussy bitch" ? Fake it till you make it..

[@Arek_R.]

These cylindrical li-on cells are safe, even these without afterparty protection circuits, because cell has inside safety pressure valve, fuse, and CID button(opens circuit when overheated). But if you will smash positive side(where all these protections are) battery may turn into flamethrowner or even explode if overloaded, overheated or overcharged.

[@SianaGearz]

USB is indeed a fussy bitch! Implementing an interrupt or iso endpoint by hand in USB 1.1 and 2.0 gives me massive shivers. But something interesting happened. Earlier USB protocols were limited by cable length because of latency issues. USB 3.0 apparently has ways of working around that. Also i have a slight hunch of how some re-synchronization could be implemented for earlier protocols to offset latency of signal-converting electronics. But it would take a person a million times better than me to actually accomplish that. But who is this Chris Boden person anyway? Never heard of them.

[@CoolKoon]

Electricguy Well, as long as you know what you're doing (and disconnect the battery at or near the cutoff current), it's fine. I'm not sure if I'd want complete amateurs attempt something like this though....

[@andylemay9020]

WARNING: With Channel 1 OFF. I connected a 26V Lithium battery pack to channel 1 of the DP832 and it damaged the PSU. In Daves words "Magic smoke time". With the channel off the PSU can sink current from a connected battery and this blows something in the power supply. Over current protection was on, so probably that. In contrast, just the day before I had been charging 12V Lithium batteries with no problems at all. Afterwards the display gave the error message “Charge overcurrent protection. Disable the output of CH1”. Now Channel 1 doesn't supply any power but luckily the rest are working. After some more research I found this Rigol doc on the Batronix website about not connecting active loads www.batronix.com/files/Rigol/Labornetzteile/DP8_DP1_ActiveLoads.pdf. Apparently with the DP800 and DP1000 the channel output is not turned on with a relay so the over current protection / control circuitry is still active even with the channel off. They recommend using a protection diode in series with the battery to charge. The main manual has this, which I don't fully understand and says it can damage the powered device not the Power supply. Do Not Provide Power for the Active Load. In order to avoid the anti-irrigation current which leads to the power control loop out of control and damages the powered device, this power supply can only provide power for the pure load without the current output function.

[@mohsenbarmuz6670]

Thanks, Nice and beneficial Video, do you have a video about the rate discharge measurement of the Li ion battery?rate

[@backpropagated]

Thank you! I spent $400 on a drone, and didn't buy a lipo charger because I thought I had one. This will get me buy until Amazon gets one to me!

[@castro1780]

How do I change my power supply screen to a video monitor like you have in the thumbnail? I could really use that.

[@Aperson-sv2hc]

Wow, lol.

[@bm256industries]

This will most likely be done in Photoshop, GIMP or some other image editing tool in post-production.

[@IsaacOLEG]

I did read that Lipo batteries are more dangerous to charge without a specific "balancing" charger . Then may be some balancing circuitry exists in my battery pack, not only a heat sensor and constant current constant voltage circuitry (?) I did unsold it from the batteries to be sure of what happens) thank you

[@BagheeraTube]

Have done this with one battery no problem, but if I do the same with 8 batteries in parallel, I still only get the same current as if I would charge one battery. So it will take 8 times longer to charge them together rather then one at the time. Why is that? It doesn't make sense.

[@CyclingNeko]

I have some questions. When at the phase of Constant current. Your lab power supply will force the current deliver to always stay at 1.7 A, right ? While the voltage from your PSU does not matter as long as does not pass 4.2V limit. And when the the voltage is at 4.2, your lab power supply will maintain the voltage at 4.2 from your PSU and let the current sinking?

[@optimizelogicrepair2784]

Hey Dave, can you do a video on how to “revive” a flat lipo pack? I see other KZbin videos from others but it would be good to get your explanation on how or why this works.

[@CoolDudeClem]

Wasn't this already uploaded already?

[@Arek_R.]

It was, in moment when I was typing very long and informative comment and then it gone... :

[@rich1051414]

Wasn't already said already? Love your vids clem :)

[@FantaBH]

Too much math. I understand it can be dangerous to improper charge lion bat. But it is easy with lab power supply. 4.15V, with a constant current 500mA and never run into problems and never have to use math to charge the battery. Just do it in a safe way and it's ok. More likely people will run into dangerous situations if they attempt to charge already dmg-ed cels. People do not believe that cell that is discharged below 2.5V is a damaged cell and it should not be charged anymore and used. Damaged cells are cells that got discharged below 2.5volts generally but the datasheet can say the exact lowest discharge point before damage happens. Damaged cells are cells that got overheated at least once. Damaged cells are cells that do not have the same capacity. I think you should make a video about how to find damaged cells not how to charge em, since charging dmg-ed cells is very dangerous. however god video so always thumbs up.

[@eksine]

since the 3400mah is a lie according to the spec sheet, you should only be charging at 1600mah not 1700mah, you even said the label is probably marketing BS, but than you forgot the label is fake and charged at 1700mah

[@Luftbubblan]

Tyvm for good a explanation. I don't know anything about electronics but i recently did this a couple of times with a homebuilt powersupply/lab. I only charged it for short periods tho and monitoring it while doing so but it feels a bit sketchy when not having the knowledge :D My battery was 500mah and i charged it at 0.5a tho but now i know to lower that! My voltage setting was not set by specs, more based on some quick basic values i found online that semt to correlate somewhat to the battery type. I did have in consideration that the battery could go poof while trying this.

[@ehsankazemi3316]

@eevblog Hi, I tried this method for charging Li-ion batteries but when I set my power supply to 4.2 v the current drawn by battery never goes higher than ~200 mA. The current will be increased only if I set voltage higher than 4.2v. At ~8 V, for instance the current is ~1.5 A. Could anybody tell me what's wrong?

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

It sounds like your battery is damaged. I presume your current limit is set higher than 200mA? Did you check the battery mAh capacity and set the current limit to half that? If all else is okay, then your battery is almost certainly damaged.

[@kkonstantinosss2]

I think your battery is a fake because this type of battery (Panasonic NCR18650B) is made in Japan... Maybe they add the protection in China...

[@Capturing-Memories]

Have you played with some MPPT solar charge controllers? I'm wondering if there is one useful solar charge controller that can charge a pack of 18650 equipped with a BMS? The only one that I could find and can be programmed via their software on a PC is ProStar MPPT from MorningStar and it's like $480, Some other manufacturers charge a $150 fees on top for factory programing.

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

You can now get solar charge controllers which can be switched between modes to charge either lead-acid batteries or lithium batteries.

[@scotshabalam2432]

Rigol DP 832 get out of my dreams and onto my work bench...

[@hatter9576]

Hi, it was a beautiful dream, has it already happened? Owon ODP3033 will get out of my dreams on my work bench next week :)

[@fatih3194]

thank you for talking about slowly rising voltage when in constant current mode but i saw something when i charge the battery with constant current mode . the voltage drop across battery was 4.2 v or around that. and voltage across the cell before charging was around 3,8 . so why is it behave like this. isnt it should be 3,8 v across the cell while charging it with constant current and slowly rise the voltage naturally like you show in the video ?

[@ebennett3655]

torches havent been used since electric was invented.... we use flashlights now :P

[@FathinLuqmanTantowi]

flashlight is called electric torch XD

[@ebennett3655]

lol

[@friggetyfuck]

They don't flash though

[@markybyeah]

Flashlight/torch is the same thing. Depending on what country, USA say flashlight but UK say torch.

[@asmrjunkie6613]

What else can you expect from a nation that calls a liquid "Gas".

[@5eurosenelsuelo]

Nice video! How about batteries with multiple cells in series? Is there a way to guarantee they are balanced using a power supply given the batteries have that additional connector they come with?

[@stonent]

I was thinking if you calculated the right resistor, you could rig a transistor in there so that once the current goes too low (the cut-off point), the transistor breaks the connection to the battery.

[@marlasota]

Can termination at 10% of charging current in the CV part of the curve be automated on DP832 / DP932?

[@snorttroll4379]

ok. could you reccommend some cehap ali express type chargers that would work for charging battteries?

[@redtails]

The bottom and top 20% of li-ion capacity should not be used, as it destroys the batteries prematurely. At the expense of losing Wh/kg (and thereby Wh/$), you can increase the meaningful lifespan of any li-ion battery. This is what is done in electric cars, where longevity is actually expected (unlike a laptop, where people sort of expect the battery to be complete shit in 2 years time)

[@johnywhy4679]

"you don't want to actually uh trickle charge or float charge lithium-ion batteries like this because it can actually uh build up or plate the uh lithium inside the metallic lithium inside the battery and yeah you don't want to do that they're not designed for that there are um there are chipsets designed for float charging and they use like a pulse uh a slow pulse" -- Is the same true of the trickle charge for a dead cell?

[@tec4303]

Vor you simply spend less than 2$ for a simple charging board on eBay.

[@blackfaithdoom9018]

which are suitable power supplies to charge Li ion batteries , and which power supplies are a ""NO-GO "" ?

[@arwlyx]

Dejavu v:

[@just5444]

ikr 😂😂

[@camilo3626]

420 charge it

[@SimonEllwood]

Why not just use a mains timer to turn of the PSU after 4 hours?

[@gregfeneis609]

That could work, assuming the dead PSU won't begin to discharge the battery after it loses power.

[@ruisimoes3638]

Hi! Nice tutorial! I have one question, maybe you know the answer. My charger doesnt have a Li Ion charging setup program. Can one use a LiPo program instead? with limited charging current of 10% of the battery mAh? LiPo programs limit the voltage to 4.2v, so.. i guess i would be ok. right?

[@JohnUsp]

YES, and 10% is the standard rule, this video skipped this important point.

[@WogChilli]

How do I get my hands on some high current battery holders like those. I keep melting the thin gauge Jaycar ones out

[@Asdafgaser]

Great video and explanation! I'm really interested in the model of the wrist watch this fine gentleman is wearing. I cannot find it on the internet...

[@sharperguy]

Hey would you do a strip down of any "vaporizer" regulated battery modules? They generally use 18650 batteries to heat a coil which vaporises liquid. I think it's interesting from an EE perspective because these mods measure the resistance of the coil, and use some kind voltage stepper to allow you to select a wattage for powering the coil.

[@bigmac9712]

So the voltage with which the battery is charged should always correspond exactly to the voltage that the battery has at exactly that point in time?

[@expertmax32]

That would be an interesting arduino project : LiPo smart charger.

[@redsquirrelftw]

Since cells vary, how do "smart chargers" determine the proper rate for different cells? Are they all similar enough that they can just use a conservative value?

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

That's pretty much the case. If you're sure you'll always be charging an 18650, you can use a low charge current such as 500mA and most of the time that will be fine since nearly all batteries of that size are at least 2000mAh in size, except for those cheap Chinese rip-offs. The charging current could be too high for some of those. On the other hand, some of the tiny flat cells can be as low as 150mAh, so you'd need a charger which goes as low as 75mA to safely charge those. It would take ages to charge an 18650 at that current, so there's no such thing as a truly universal lithium charger with a fixed charging current. "Smart" chargers generally either assume you'll be only charging a certain physical size of battery or rely on you to set the charge current.

[@Iowa599]

what if the psu is powered off but left connected to the battery? use a timer box thing, for the psu

[@turmat01]

Is there anyway to charge a multicell lipo with that? Each cell must stay as balanced as possible

[@photolunatic4552]

How can I charge 12V 55Ah AGM Lead Acid battery using a lab power supply (Korad KA3005P)? Any links appreciated. Cheers!

[@davidbolha]

Use a Ctek MXS 5.0 or Optimate 4 charger.