EEVblog

The Batteriser / Batteroo AAA sleeve tested in a toy train passive load and the results analysed!
Does the Batteriser finally live up to the claims of increased performance in passive loads? or is it a complete turkey?
More videos to come...
Full train test footage in a single take:
• Batteriser / Batteroo ...
Frank Buss's test footage:
• Batteroo sleeve testing
Live test footage:
• Batteroo sleeve testing
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[@rarbiart]

If i had a shop selling batteries, i would offer free batterizers to my customers. This would help to sell even more batteries. (in other words: batterizers would work excellent for me!)

[@EwanMarshall]

I'd then file lawsuit for false advertising and fraud. And if the judge doesn't believe the evidence, well, I'll bring a train into the courtroom and demonstrate. The case may be a long one, but don't worry, I'll file for the loser to pay lawyer bills. I guess this is why bateroo/bateriser are set up in the US, not Europe or Australia...

[@reeseyme9613]

well, everyone like free stuff. when ask "what it do?" ans: "it boost the output voltage and enhance performance." (PS: the usual BS) but if ask "what that does?" ans:"nothing."

[@PutItAway101]

Interesting. So since the batteriser fanatics were so keen to spout dark and defamatory conspiracy theories that people who pointed out why the batteriser was a crock of shit were obviously being paid off by "big battery" to spread lies to protect their profits and stock prices.... now that we know the batteriser actually boosts the profits and stock prices of "big battery", obviously the bateriser fanatics must be getting paid off by "big battery" to spread lies, according to their own logic!

[@ConstanceJill]

@ rarbi.art : I suppose that would depend on whether or not the resulting increase in batteries sales is enough to cover the cost of offering these.

[@insoft_uk]

Asda and other places are going to love to sell them, sales of battery go up😀. Customers puzzled why they are buying more battery's since they started to use batterizers

[@scienteer3562]

I NEED ONE OF THESE. The kids have loads of noisy toys that last too long. This is an essential for any parent who likes peice and quite.

[@EEVblog]

LOL!

[@drussell_]

Just ration the kids to an allotment 4 dollar-store brand batteries per day... That should keep things down to only a few minutes. :)

[@SRheayns]

drussell careful! Some of those dollar store batteries are pretty respectable for the price!

[@Roflcopter4b]

@@SRheayns Just be sure to get the "SUPER HEAVY DUTY" ones that have bugger all for capacity.

[@dancoulson6579]

Save yourself some money, and buy some Kodak Zinc batteries. I honestly think they can't even power a clock for a full year. I've had a couple in a mini maglite (incandescent) and they were at half brightness within 10 minutes. I don't think they lasted for an hour until the light was so dim it was unusable.

[@stabilini]

batteriser will make your batt graph display show always full until the device suddenly turns off

[@EEVblog]

Yep

[@mmartinm]

Lol

[@shanejohns7901]

If you were the train operator, though, you could squeeze in 10% more passengers per day using it -- because it was ahead in laps by about 10% or so when it died. And if you have a battery operated device that does any kind of measuring, it's probably going to give more consistent results (albeit, for a shorter amount of time) with constant voltage compared to without. That sag in voltage can and does distort measurements.

[@John_Ridley]

This has probably been mentioned before, but I thought of a situation where a Batterizer might be useful. If you have a device that doesn't like 1.2V NiMH cells, and shuts down with still a lot of power in the cell because it thinks the cell is dead, the Batterizer would make it run much longer. However, it would also damage the cell since it wouldn't shut down when the cell reached 0.95 volts.

[@virmontisfbg]

John Ridley I'm thinking about the same. There are some bad designed products at the market which don't discharge the batteries down to 0.9 Volt. In those rather rare situations the batteriser could help. We should be fair at this point.

[@bald_engineer]

Here's the response to rechargeables on their FAQ: "We are currently working on the IC optimized for the rechargeable battery. We do not recommend using the Batteroo (for disposable batteries) with rechargeable batteries. Please subscribe to our mailing list on the homepage, and we promise to keep you updated on all new products!"

[@Coolkeys2009]

It will possibly damage rechargeable batteries by taking the voltage too low.

[@elprzemo666]

Xbox 360 controller show fully charged eneloops as 70-80%, but no problems with this cells in my Canon. Some devices do not like 1.2V

[@rdudas71]

So ... wouldn't a NiMH batterizer that shuts down safely but keeps voltage up to 1.5 as long as possible a not so spectacular, but more useful variant ?

[@tubical71]

Special thanx, Dave for putting that great audio down into this time lapse part...i really like that...speakers blasting...:-D

[@dansanger5340]

Unfortunately, based on the saying that "there's no such thing as bad publicity," the Batteroo folks may end up crying all the way to the bank over Dave's videos.

[@DonDegidio]

P.T. Barnum said, "There's a sucker born every minute" :-).

[@svenhoek]

+Jack Hudler There have been some recently reported overheating and melting / burning issues. I certainly think the big box people would look very closely at retailing this (from a liability standpoint)

[@miniwarrior7]

Dan Sanger I was curious if they paid him to test their product or if he just felt like bashing them

[@svenhoek]

topher Jack Hudler If you go the eevblog forum, there are more updates over there. As for Batteroo, Dave mentioned that they contacted him (just recently) trying to contract him for testing (i.e. silence the critiques). He said he politely turned them down.

[@adventcontrols]

I want one just to play with. I don't want one for its perpetual motion qualities.

[@MartinPHE]

The whole basis of their advertising is point out the fact when putting in a batteroo the device's power monitor shows an increase. Basically all this thing does is to trick the voltage monitoring device which is kind of what Dave showed after pulling out the dead batteroo from the train and putting it on the multimeter. You have increased the voltage but have basically no current to do anything.

[@gabest4]

Shorter battery life? I think Duracell sponsors Batteriser.

[@tohopes]

What's with starting all the counts at 1? Did all those bronze-agers die for nothing?? WE HAVE ZERO THESE DAYS.

[@Rob_Turner_UK]

You gave the Batteroo more credit than it was due for the test " Adding Batteroo to exhausted battery without Batteroo " The battery had time to recover so the battery would have worked without the Batteroo. The the additional extended battery life would be less than 0.02% that you advised.

[@meatsneakers4755]

I've never seen a product so thoroughly destroyed... Dave, I'd like to see your Yelp reviews.

[@EEVblog]

This is only the passive load testing. There is active loads to go, and also actual electrical performance.

[@zeuss194]

Don't mess with Electronic Dundee

[@JanicekTrnecka]

I would be very curious about max current and ripple, because there is no space for smoothing capacitor or some advanced circuitry. I would bet that the output will look like a horrible rollercoaster on scope :-)

[@Brainstorm4300]

Can the company be sued for false advertising? If yes then please someone sue them! 😂

[@funkydunky1671]

the company is dead born, anyway. nothing to vulture on.

[@AndyLundell]

Remember : Your counter starts from 1. (For some reason?) So, It didn't really give you ten extra laps from battery #1. It only did nine laps.

[@wilbertbirdner1303]

you should try putting one in a device but leave the device switched off and then see how many days it takes for the batterkiller to kill the battery with no external load.

[@danfishlock8306]

Please test the Batteroo with an EmDrive and show us the wormhole thus created.

[@ABaumstumpf]

the collapse of bullshit would only form a very smelly black/brown-hole.

[@treahblade]

Except that the EmDrive actually works though a quark of quantum physics.

[@ABaumstumpf]

treahblade not really.

[@RAFFIZUMZ]

the em drive seems to work but the mechanism isn't fully understood thus making it quite important in a research point of view but it is extremely inefficient, the ion drive is a much better.

[@ABaumstumpf]

RAFFIZUMZ Nope, doesn't work. Nasa tested it, got some positive results, later it was noticed that it was due to an error in the setup. The 'thrust' measured suprisingly exactly line up with what you expect from low-pressure atmosphere hitting a hot plate. And then there is more: The latest tests have concluded that they could not conclude anything, cause the minute force they measured was completely overshadowed by other interference - the force change by orders of magnitude depending on the orientation of the device. And the efficiency of even the best measured results is just so sub-par that it would be an incredible waste. MICRO-Newtons per kilowatt. If you had a simple LiPo with 4000 mAh capacity - you could either get 4 hours of 1 microNewton, or you could use a tiny motor and just fling out the batteriey - giving you far more momentum in a few seconds. Yes - shooting out objects (not even like a rocket) would be more efficient then the claimed results of the EM-drive.

[@bobbob-uv1oi]

test did not account for room humidity test is not valid PS: THIS IS A JOKE

[@YvanLeTerrible31]

as humidity would come from tear of bateroo fans ? come on That is NOT the real issue, Humidity would only have a low action on the friction of ther wooden track, BUT Dave , maybe (to be more accurate and not risking Data contestation), you might thinking showing and recording also "atmospheric air pressure" as "someone" might think that the test might be tampered and bataroo train being tested on 62.5 atmophers (918 psi or 63328 hPa), as evryone know that would make a HUGE difference in air resistance fort the bataroo powered engine to be overcome (your mancave/lab surely being equipped with some kind of autoclave)

[@yottaforce]

...and earth rotation :-)

[@eformance]

Coriolis is rolling over in his grave :-)

[@frollard]

Totally, batterizer only works in certain planar fields so if earth rotated away from a tangent from the sun it totally would have changed that thing that happens inside them :D

[@AndyLundell]

If only he had a Fontus to convert all that humidity to drinkable water.

[@B-M.B]

i survived the last 10-15 minutes to see trains circling round for round! Who is curing now the left circles in my eye view??

[@uriituw]

My Batterwoo cured me of cancer!

[@mankee2211]

just for research, where did you put it?

[@ulrichkalber9039]

in the glass of MMS he drank...

[@michaelparker2449]

When I was a kid my parents took the dead batteries out the toys and lined them up in front of the fire and they did get a reasonable amount of power back in them.

[@tokeeptrackofrandomsubs5899]

There are a few tricks when it comes to AA batteries that gets a little bit more use out of them, usually not worth the hassle for the unpredictable runtime and leaking potential you gain in my opinion but they do work to some extent: 1. Cleaning the contact areas Cleaning both the contacts of the device and battery may pay off to remove the dirt/grease/oxidation. 2. Increasing the temperature Much like you said they will work a bit better, the reason for it in simple terms is that when raising the temperature the chemical reactions inside the battery happen easier/more frequently. 3. Whacking them/dropping them Apparently this is said to work by a lot of people, I guess impact shakes up things internally a bit or something. I never really use it as my "dead" alkaline batteries are usually in low drain devices like clocks and they drain them pretty damn well already. For most of my higher drain type deals I use rechargeable NiMH batteries (mostly eneloops that will retain a good percentage of their charge compared to the ancient batteries during my childhood). Especially in applications which require 1A or more you'll get a lot more use out of a good set of NiMH batteries. I'm not sure by how much you're increasing the potential for leaks when using the above methods to get all the energy out of a battery.

[@tubical71]

you can even recharge them, if not used over 50% total....but you need to be careful and use only 10 mA up to 20mA constant charge current over some hours...and you need to watch if they get warm, if so, stop that charging or they may explode... There was a time where there had been chargers for standart batteries (both Z-C and alka) around, but they had been rather expensive....

[@0MoTheG]

The way I understood one can tell a full one from an empty one by their bounce but you can not get more out of them that way.

[@tokeeptrackofrandomsubs5899]

0MoTheG That one kinda worked as well, but the question here was about dead cells. If you know its drained already there's no point in doing that indicating test. I'm not too sure about that squeezing/dropping thing tbh, never tried that one myself but there's a small degree of logic to it that there might be an ever so slight increase in performance due to mixing the reacting materials up a bit. TubiCal That is possible to do TubiCal, and I've tried it with a lab powersupply a few times just to see if it worked. But I have to say it didn't restore too much capacity and what I did put in extra was gone pretty quick: I did this to 4 cells, all had been drained an equal amount. Some capacity was gained (compared to known discharge curves on batteries from the same package), but when I discharged the other 2 one month later they had lost a fair bit of the added charge. They didn't leak from that one charging session though, and that's one of the other things I read about. Apparently after a few cycles of trying that they are more prone to leaking, in addition to the apparent high self discharge I don't feel like its worth it compared to just buying proper NiMH batteries and charge them in a good -dV/dt terminating charger at 1A. Considering the long charging duration, potential for overheating and leaking and limited cycles that it may work you're so much better off just getting quality Eneloops or other varieties. Pretty sure I can get Eneloops from 2.45 Euro and the Fujitsi branded ones (both from the same FDK factory) around 2 euro each when buying in reasonable numbers. Rated for 2100 cycles they're worth getting for high drain devices.

[@tubical71]

I nearly switched completely to NiMH cells...for 90% of all my battery operated units, there are only two kinds of devices where it makes no sense...in my two big wall clocks and my outdoor temp sensors. I use lithium batteries inside them..they last about 3 times longer than the usual alkalines :)

[@alexandruconstantiniu7832]

This can be considered as ''Dave's divine mission'' :). I am just a hobbyist who is trying to learn something, and even from my opinion as an aficionado, the Batteroo seems to be complete bogus. Thanks for educating and entertaining people like me! Your time, work and dedication is inspiring us all. Cheers mate!

[@vencibushy]

Now imagine how many other products are actually sold worldwide thanks to marketing BS. It's amazing!

[@benadams6332]

If the batteriser discharges the batteries all the way they are very likely to leak and destroy both the batteriser and the device being powered.

[@M4RC90]

They're probably fine with destroying the batteriser, they can sell even more then.

[@morlanius]

No, the chemical reaction in the battery is driven to completion and then it'll stop. The battery will recover as the chemicals "recover" and then even that effect will stop then its dead. There is nothing here that will make it physically destroy the battery. The recovery process is purely a chemical one, the regions within the two substances in the batteries that are closest to each other create a depletion zone which is then unable to both react and pass current, the "recovery" is simply the concentration of the chemicals balancing out. Imagine a beaker of blue water that is slowly fading from UV exposure from the top or something, the liquid will bleach from the top down, but if you switched the light off and let the solution balance out again (mix) you will have a paler blue solution, but it will all be blue again. This is basically how the chemical recovery of a battery works.

[@rb8nrb8n46]

I believe the point was that discharged alkaline cells are more likely to leak when more fully discharged. If this allows more complete discharge, there is a perceived risk in increase of chemical leakage. I haven't had cells leak unless stored for extended periods, but I also haven't had charged cells leak even when old. C confirm for sure that charge effects the likelihood of leakage but it is a common perception.

[@morlanius]

Leaking seems to depend mostly on storage conditions.

[@rb8nrb8n46]

Seems, yes. And one of the most perceived conditions is charge.

[@jeeptrail08]

People should file a class action lawsuit against batteroo for false advertisement. To much data to prove this is a bogus product and companies like this need their feet held to the fire for it

[@feynthefallen]

And what do we learn from that? If Dave debunks you, you say "Thank you Dave, for setting our heads straight" and leave it at that. You DON'T try to bullshit Dave. It can only lead to tears!

[@eformance]

In this episode we learned that the boost converter in the Thrunite Ti is far more effective and efficient than the boost converter in the Batteriser! Something tells me that the LVD of the Batteriser is very high, the battery measured 1.18v!

[@heliosfa]

The *open circuit* voltage measured 1.18V. When you put that voltage under load, the output voltage will drop a lot due to the internal resistance of the battery.

[@SuprSi]

exactly, put any kind of load on there and it'll drop to nothing, that battery is very dead.

[@docdaneeka3424]

I can't remember if the effect is as much in alkaline batteries, but I do remember that for some batteries as you increase the current draw the actual available energy/life goes down. So if you have your boost converter battereiser as the battery voltage falls and you increase the current draw you will shorten the battery life compared to no batteriser for just 'passive' resistive load. (ignoring the losses in the converter itself and as I said can't remember how big this effect is with alkaline). So I would have expected that the batteriser should always be worse for passive loads in terms of actual energy available from the battery...

[@vinistois]

Doc Daneeka you're referring to Peukert's law, very much a real thing. As the discharge rate increases, the total available capacity decreases.

[@ElectroMac74]

nothing is more exiting than DATA

[@winstonsmith478]

Batteriser - a plot by battery manufacturers to sell more batteries by reducing battery life. ;-)

[@movax20h]

Winston Smith I would seriously look into this idea. I know it sounds like conspiracy theory, but it kind of make sense.

[@winstonsmith478]

movax20h I was joking, of course. I don't think enough people would ever buy this device _or even know it exists in the first place_ to make any measurable impact on battery sales. Also, tests performed by any well known consumer outfit like Consumer Reports will easily destroy the myth in a much more widespread forum than EEVblog.

[@surjamanpradhan866]

Winston Smith babu judhahelpy new year

[@carlzimmerman8700]

the bateroo didn't break physics? Damn

[@EEVblog]

What a shame.

[@FranklinLaserBlog]

EEVblog But physics can break the Bateroo.

[@Keex11]

But the background music in their campaign videos was so upbeat and hopeful.. I was sure that this time we would break the laws of nature...

[@MisterMakerNL]

I was hoping it used Dark energy, but yeah bit of a disappointment.

[@Anamnesia]

Scotty, beam me up! 🝒

[@CorradoMella]

Other said it before. Standard, alkaline and other non-rechargeable batteries regain some juice when unused, even for a short period. Nothing to do with the Batteroo. The energy is generated from a chemical reaction that can accumulate it when unexploited, unlike rechargeable batteries that store energy ionising their components and releasing it when requested. That's why the two "dead" batteries could run the train again after some rest. The same "dead" batteries could run a LED torch for over 16 hours because the power (Current x Voltage) required to overcome the friction of the gears, and the voltage required to overcome the threshold to spin a DC motor are much, much greater that to run a last gen phosphor LED. All that the Batteroo did was to sap some energy out of the battery to run itself. However, all in all, a comprehensive debunking of a snake oil sales pitch.

[@thefipster]

I was really hoping for the fail buzzer ;)

[@guspaz]

It sounds like the only actual purpose that this thing can serve is in a scenario where you need a stable 1.5v in a device, and that stable voltage is more important than runtime. I have no idea what such a device would be, I would think that any device that needed a stable 1.5v to function would have its own voltage boost circuit built-in.

[@bdot02]

Maybe the 80% untapped battery potential was their way of saying that with their product you can get 80% of your normal battery life by using their product. A whole extra -20%! Edit: according to math it looks like you get 30% less laps, like 50% less time - jeeze.

[@EEVblog]

It's pretty bad!

[@GamingWithNikolas]

At the very beginning they were saying it gives you 800% more battery life.

[@ChipGuy]

Wow, it sounds like that step up DC/DC converter efficiency is going to be really really crap. Something around 56-69%. Not exactly because the train's power consumption was not exactly constant. Can't wait for the real efficiency tests of that turd. Data is the blood in the veins of science :)

[@sarowie]

The toy train efficiency (laps per Joule, depending on the voltage) is also an issue: When I would develop such a toy, I would optimize motor and led for a voltage below 1.5V. (usually, the DC-resistance of the battery will cause a voltage drop, causing the motor to turn ever so slightly slower and the led to be dimmer). The DC/DC efficiency of the converter could actually be okay (not worth the trouble overall, but in the 90 precents). Effectively, there will also be two efficiencies: The converter alone and the "system", taking into account that the batterizer draws more current from the battery, thus causing more loose due to the internal resistance of the battery.

[@EEVblog]

Frank Buss has posted an efficiency curve on the forum.

[@88njtrigg88]

EEVblog that's way l needed to know weight of train. Thumb's up for the triple Lindy.

[@magomedarsaev4522]

Batteroo made for real world and what u propose its just a spherical horse in a vacuum

[@John_Ridley]

Exactly. They're not selling this and saying "this optimizes batteries in a very tiny specific sliver of devices in laboratory conditions" they're selling it as a consumer device and hyping it as great for all purposes. If there is ANY situation in which it makes things better, they're very small cases. The ONLY situation I can think of where this might be good is if you have devices that don't like 1.2V rechargeables.

[@cordona_974]

Coming soon, to a kickstarter near you: Overunity Thorium Powered Solar Rotatin' Batterizers!

[@JanicekTrnecka]

incorporated in roadwas...

[@tunahankaratay1523]

with RGB lights of course for gamers and also it is made out of zinc because zinc is good for our health unlike the copper.

[@0MoTheG]

In a high current application you will get more out of every single battery by putting two in parallel. Therefore an adapter for a certain device known to use too small cells would be useful. Likely such a toy train would run for more than twice as long with two cells, although the additional weight might work against that.

[@pikibbaum]

I think I know why it runs less laps with batteriser than without it: Let's take the two main equations of electricity: P = V*I and V = R*I If we suppose that the efficiency of the boost converter is 100% (just to make it easier, the real case would be worse) it means that Pin = Pout and Vin*Iin = Vout*Iout We know, based on the discharge courve, that the battery voltage decreases with time. And, with a constant passive load, the current will be a function of the voltage applied (V = R*I). Then, the current will decrease, since the resistance is the same but the voltage is decreasing. But, with the batteriser sleeve, the output voltage (Vout) still the same (1.5 V) trough all the time and consequently the current, then, since Pin = Pout, the Iin (output current from the battery) will increase with time to sustain the same output voltage (Vout). If we take a look to any battery datasheet, we would see that the ammount of charge available in a battery deppends on the current. Then, if we are pulling more current, the available charge is actually decreasing. It also means that the battery temperature is increasing compared to the normal use and it can create more problems because of this. What do you think about this Dave?

[@backyardbasher]

you should stop with this now, you have proved your point over and over now it looks like you are out for vengeance trying to do as much damage to them as you can

[@eliotmansfield]

Indeed.

[@rageagainstthehygiene2357]

I guess if they keep lying, he keeps debunking.

[@spectrHz]

well it doesn't exactly help that they keep peddling this product dishonestly, plus, Dave is just having fun, batteriser has been a big thing on this channel since the initial debunking and of course hes going to test the thing when he gets some in the mail.

[@ianc4901]

Deliberately misleading people for profit is not excusable, they have obviously spent a lot of time and money on marketing bullshit and promotional crap in order to con innocent people out of their money. Hopefully some people will actually do some research to find out if these products and claims are genuine and see at least one of Dave's videos before handing over their money to these con artists. It's good that Dave has spent so much of his time to dispute their claims, he is more than qualified and capable to prove or disprove their lies. Would you prefer to see dishonest companies making tons of money from your innocent friends and family instead ?

[@eliotmansfield]

As the o/p pointed out - he's made his point, shown the evidence and made an enjoyable video - leave it at that. Bit like being down the pub with a mate who spends the whole night arguing one point endlessly.

[@MisterMakerNL]

Should test if a vibrator is better with 10% more powerrrr

[@JanicekTrnecka]

Battery operated dildo ? Rookie ! Try something that uses 3phase 400V @32A at least... thats a ride !

[@toonv4023]

You're talking about drilldos.

[@Skwisgar2322]

the second test on a dead battery should be performed on a battery that has been drained and let set for ~1.5hr without the batteroo, I suspect you would see similar results.

[@lennywgtn]

I'm amazed they mention Digital Cameras in the supplied letter. The current drain of digital cameras is such that you need high current capacity rechargeable batteries - higher than an Alkaline battery - in order to get hours of use. The DC-DC converter electronics in such a small package isn't going to handle it. I wonder how many of these things will get returned under warranty because they burnt out due to excessive current draw?

[@MarkShannonroad_videos]

Thumbs down on the Batteriser / Batteroo, but thumbs up, WAY UP, for this review!

[@bellshooter]

I guess the number of laps run indicates 2 things, The batteriser has an efficiency much less than 90% The train has a voltage rejection set at about 1.1v (recovery to 1.18v is an electrochemical effect over time) The combination gives an overall efficiency of 69% 508/351 compared to a standard battery. The only use I can see for this is to boost a Nimh cell voltage to make it work in an item that 'prefers' a higher voltage?

[@PerBuch]

It would drain a Nimh cell to 0,6V, not rekommended

[@EEVblog]

Frank Buss has posted the efficiency curve on the forum.

[@bellshooter]

Absolutely, it would have to be done knowingly, and with due caution.

[@bellshooter]

That is only based on minutes run, I believe that number of circuits completed is a better measure for Daves particular test as it includes any speed up efficiency. i.e. it equates more closely to energy delivery.

[@loopback36]

Just for argument sake: The batteriser did used more of the juice from the battery on the first run, in opposed to the "regular" battery (most of the people will dump the battery after the first "flat"). PS: I'm on your side Dave, but this is worth mentioning.

[@Keex11]

What wasn't mentioned in the video was that the battery #1 was recovering for 1.5h (while fresh #2 was in the train) before it was used in the run with the batteriser. The other battery had just 5 to 10 minutes to recover and still put out half as many extra laps.

[@akuunreach]

Dave, Dave, you forgot to adjust for a starting count of 1, so it's only 9 and 4 laps, even sadder than you thought.

[@Robonza]

So have you tested the leakage current? If I stick a fresh battery in my train and use it a month later, did the bateroo kill the battery before I used it?

[@EEVblog]

I have not done any electrical tests yet.

[@AndyLundell]

Here's why the product will be a success, even if it doesn't actually work : From the IndieGoGo comment page : " I did a 6 hour NY Eve gig last night & my devices didn’t drop ONE level on their battery gauges - that NEVER happens with my high-drain devices." It's not about making things last longer. It's about getting "Four bars" on your battery gauge. People who don't understand what it does will be impressed by how long batteries "stay full". It's all an illusion.

[@bloccospirale4280]

All the positive comments for Batteroo sleeves are along the same lines. He might take take a different view when his 100% full batteries cut out in the middle of his next gig.

[@SuprSi]

Yep, people are stupid, that's why scams work :( at least Dave is trying to educate people and wise them up.

[@CaliReef]

This is on KZbin trending lol, Good work Dave

[@connelly6375]

the product is based on the assumption that a battery discharge curve is linear, starting at about 1.5VDC and discharging in a straight line to 0VDC. I was so intrigued when I first heard of this product a year or so ago that I put a duracell AAA alkaline cell on some battery test equipment and discharged it to 0 volts. The curve looks more like a typical li-ion or Nimh discharge shape, starts off steep, stays less steep for a while, then drops off fast at the end. either these jokers at batterizer never conducted these measurements or they did and decided to just develop this product that they knew would never improve battery life the way they describe, even if 100% efficient.

[@mcconkeyb]

The real question is; are there any laws that can be used to take a product like this off the market based on your new data showing it doesn't work as claimed in marketing materials. If there are then the next question is there anyone who can afford to take your data and go to court and get the product taken off the market (usually a government job)?

[@svenhoek]

You mean the law of Caveat Emptor?

[@svenhoek]

***** True. However warning labels could mitigate some of the legal risk here. I have not seen the packaging to confirm if there is a label. As far as tort liability is concerned, use of the baterizer would have to significantly contribute to the harm caused, and it would have to be proven that was it not for using the baterizer, the resulting harm would not have occurred.

[@reubot0]

The ACCC look after misleading representations in Australia. www.accc.gov.au/consumers/misleading-claims-advertising/false-or-misleading-claims They recently won a case against Reckitt Benckiser for making rubbish claims about Nurofen targeting specific pain. www.accc.gov.au/media-release/full-federal-court-orders-6-million-penalty-for-nurofen-specific-pain-products

[@svenhoek]

***** Apparently there have been reports of batteries shorting out, overheating, damaging devices, and causing burns to people who handle the batteries. This is a major problem. www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-751-how-to-debunk-a-product-(the-batteriser)/msg1102331/?topicseen#msg1102331

[@EEVblog]

Sven Hoek Yes, this sounds very disturbing. I noted that the potting compound under the PCB was very thin over the inductor, I can see this shorting out the battery positive tab.

[@micflynn1]

The batteriser in the time laps at the end of the video is going FASTER per lap than the non-batteriser at 1:18:00 its at 31 laps faster. it may not make it run as long but it looks like it made it run faster. And a difference of 12 mins between 351 laps at 1:47:21.9

[@l3p3]

Mike Flynn Have you watched the hole video? It is faster, yes. But just a few percent. The runtime is way more important!

[@nyakovnyakovski6409]

Dave, please, don't call this thing that battaru do "marketing". It is definitely not. They a clearly fraudsters. And no, the fact that they actually produce some device don't change this fact.

[@patrickjean5811]

No wonder, laws of power is U * I primary = U * I secondary, see the output of the baterizer as a secondary, so if you increase the voltage on the secondary, it require more current on the primary.

[@Anamnesia]

I may have screwed up the math, but did I calculate this correctly? Without the Batterizer the train was ~20% slower, buuuuut... With the Batterizer the total train runtime was 45% shorter? ... (no calculators were harmed in the computation of these figures!)

[@KuraIthys]

Seems plausible. I assume a device like this is less efficient. Besides which, the relationship between the speed of a motorised object and the power required to keep it at that speed is non-linear. Granted that shouldn't be that obvious at the kind of speeds a toy train would reach, since it's primarily a function of air resistance (air resistance rises with the square of velocity - doubling the speed quadruples the air resistance), but I guess it's still a thing...

[@kaizen9451]

That's correct. I remember rewatching the live stream and calculating the time it took for the batterizer to complete a lap - the time was reducing i.e. the velocity was increasing - as per Dave's graph. But that appears the point of the batterizer, I believe.

[@insoft_uk]

Was slower, but if it was fitted with it's own boost converter it would be the same, so the batterizer is pointless as devices will come or not come with there own boost converter if required, guess the manufacturer seen sense and this train was best without. And going to make your battery indicator on other devices 100% regardless then just go strait to zero, one day we will have this in the news, Apple your mouse battery indicator not working as it says 100% one minute then 0%

[@Anamnesia]

20% speed gain, for 45% reduction in life expectancy... 😵

[@hyperlogos]

Perhaps internal friction is more relevant than wind resistance at these speeds

[@godzil42]

Dave you should try to empty another AAA battery with the bateriser, then let it to rest as for battery 2, then retest is without the batterisze to see if it will do more turn! (or run more time) than the "extended" time for battery 2!

[@MarcioT]

You should make a video seeing if a Joule Thief can pull more energy out of a battery than the Batterizer can.

[@teds9896]

Perhaps there's some situation where it might work, like say you have some weak batteries lying round and are wanting to watch a Game of Thrones marathon that your old TV remote won't work without a high enough biasing voltage. Still, I can't really see the use as its likely enough that if something really needs a constant voltage from a battery, they'll put a booster/regulator inside. Otherwise its just another power suck, particularly if its drawing any current when the load is off.

[@EEVblog]

Yes, there will be some products that it will be of benefit in, but it won't be that many.

[@magilser78]

Sometimes whacking a battery a couple of times with a hammer can get enough power for a few more remote clicks.

[@avilik]

In my work, we have a Snap-on torque wrench. This wrench doesn't work with 2 AA NiMh cells, because the voltage is too low. It only only works with two Alkaline cells. Probably here it can help to use rechargeable cells, but we neeed two Baterisers.

[@connelly6375]

there may be some specific applications where it is technically beneficial but this product was marketed as a money saver, I assume you would be better off taking the batteroo money and buying a pack of batteries from costco

[@canadianavenger]

Great video again! Would have been funny if you put the battery that died in the batterizer back in the train without it to see how much longer it would run. [instead of the torch]

[@sjenkins1057]

Please no more bataroo vids.... you were correct in the first one! I believed you then, really I did! :-) I would much rather see more mailbags (my favorite, like many), more vintage teardowns, more theory classes, more repair vids, even more races through the mud with test equipment!

[@grndkntrl]

There are relatively few videos about the Batterwoowoo compared to the total number of regular content videos Dave has uploaded. These scammers need to be called out on the bullshit they are peddling.

[@sjenkins1057]

And that has been done and more than done, and more than more than done. One cannot dissuade the fraudulent or deluded, and there is more than enough information available to educate everyone else already.

[@newnuu6448]

Now find a device that cuts off at 1.4 volts and test the batteriser with that

[@alancordwell9759]

Send one to Photonic Induction, he'll no doubt test it in his own inimitable way!

[@guyh3403]

As if he would upload a new video... Sure... That guy has left the building a long time ago.

[@nitramretep]

Enough is enough, this is becoming an obsession, on your part!

[@ZiggyTheHamster]

You should do a test comparing squeezing a naked battery in a vice after fully discharging to running a fully discharged battery in the batterizer. (Obviously, the former wins.)

[@curiousottman]

I’ve told my 9 year old many times: anything that is factually true will remain true after any level of inquiry and scrutiny. And if it doesn’t, an honest person will be happy to learn and also accept the honest results.

[@JulieBrandon-geekycow]

Dave ... Any chance we could have a test on them with NiMH in a device with an active load that's voltage fussy? As has been suggested, it's the only edge case where they might be handy but tests are better to know this than just guesswork!

[@cmj20002]

This is exactly as I thought. boost converters are not 100% efficient, so you will kill your battery sooner with the converter, because you are increasing the drain on them.

[@lindy7985]

Has anyone asked yet, "but dave, you can't measure the voltage of a battery directly with a multimeter without a load on it, can you?" maybe nobody asked it cause it's a dumb question i learned it wrong. :( (anyway, calculations on the board is one thing. proving it is yet another, and i very much enjoyed seeing it happen, and seeing the little unexpected surprises. and i think your tone was perfectly justified and entertaining since you were basically called a liar for pointing out the facts in your earlier videos. my 2cnts).

[@kay486]

you should have put some easter egg halfway through the 10x speed test part for the people who would sit through the whole thing :D

[@for2utube]

Given marketing a new slogan: "Proven on the harsh outback of EEVBlog" Train went 10% faster".

[@borthewolf3376]

Dave, please test again with a stone from Shakti Innovations on top of the batteriser. That should do the trick.

[@Lukaazas9]

One more problem - with bateriser, DC to DC conversion also produces energy losses, and using the thing while the battery is in a ok charge, it is *wasting* energy. They could make the buck boost converter to turn on when it is on low side of voltage, but then it wouldnt be batteriser, i guess.

[@ableite]

who has that GPS they used to claim they made the battery last longer on an old video they made? time to test batteroo there!

[@NickyNiclas]

Around 2006 I had a digital camera that could have probably benefited slightly from a Batteroo. It cut off power with a lot of juice left.

[@Yrouel86]

But even then you would've had a camera that would suddenly shut off without warning because the batteroo kills any battery gauge. So if you where using your camera professionally it could have died in the middle of a very important moment because you didn't know you where low on battery and acted accordingly.

[@drussell_]

It is most likely to shut off at the highest power demand time, which is the encoding and writing to the SD card... so it will likely shut off while writing and corrupt your SD card since the camera can't shut down cleanly because the Batterizer blocks it's knowledge of the battery level. Don't use them in a camera!!

[@ElmerFuddGun]

Please use a speed over time graph next time. It makes it much easier to see the difference in speed and shows the stop better. Good video otherwise.

[@raindogred]

From all these vids you have done, the only thing that I'm taking away is the Batteroo actually works ..on ur mp3 player you got an extra 45mins of run time. Now I'm going to have to buy some and try this on some electronics junk i have laying around...portable (cd player, cheap kmart camera, mp3 player)..

[@RelakS__]

In a Lumintop Tool AAA flashlight? That, and the Tool 2 AA provides the feeling that these flashlights are consuming only electron vapour :D Tool 2 AA worked several weeks with a rechargeable battery but a Xanes lamp worked maybe a week with the same one without better performance.

[@elviswjr]

Maybe you have already done so in another video, so my apologies if I overlooked it, but I would like to see you explain the science behind how the batteriser actually works and why it doesn't do what they claim it does.

[@CookingWithCows]

Yeah but you didn't test it with a remote control :P better spend 10 years testing this under real life conditions with realistic times between button presses and stuff before publishing your results, so they can sell more units in the meantime.

[@jaimeesg]

How about measuring the standby current consumption of the scamterizer?

[@vwthings]

And what a surprise Dave - negative likes. Wonder where they came from? Vietnam again? Good work by the way.

[@vansien]

lol nice work pointing out these cons, by the way I'm sure you already realised your lap count were incorrect, you always started with 1 on the counter, so after it completes the first lap it then shows the count of 2. not a deal breaker or anything lol

[@RllXeron]

What it looks like when using poor quality/cheap batteries?

[@sheadjohn]

i thought you were going to take it out of the batterizer and put directly in the train and have it run for another 50 laps.

[@georgemartin1436]

I'm shocked that adding a parasitic load onto a battery makes it last less time. Shocked, I tell you.

[@bean2594]

At one point, I think you measured 1.1 V on a dead battery and 1.4 V on the batterizer terminal in open circuit condition. At least open circuit as far as your Mohm of your meter. Does the DC to DC boost circuit keep running if there is no current draw? How many microamps does the batterizer draw when it's not even powering a device?

[@maffysdad]

So this is a REAL Joule Thief, haha!...

[@dimitris470]

They could have had better results if they kept the voltage in a lower level instead of going for 1.5 and pushing the battery faster towards the slippery discharge slope.

[@markusofficial9016]

I first read Batterpoo when opening the video.. guess I'm biased.

[@seanbarr1343]

So it will make the user need to purchase MORE batteries. Guess we know how who is really on the take from the battery companies. LOL

[@shanejohns7901]

Spoiler: The train with the device installed gets roughly 10% more laps in the same amount of time, before it finally stops completely -- while the one without the device keeps going many more laps. The device keeps the electric engine strength at the same torque over time, by keeping voltage fixed. Without the device, the voltage drops over time, slowing the train down some. So the train with the device travels a shorter distance in total, but at a faster and constant/steady speed/velocity. If that's the essence of this device, then it would have SOME limited applications. How do battery-operated clocks (analog and digital) deal with the voltage drop over time? Do they run faster at full voltage, and slow down as the battery discharges? If that's the case, then it would seem to me that the device would add to the overall accuracy of the clock, in exchange for a shorter overall run-time.

[@rymannphilippe]

Thanks da Dave for all this videos since Christmas. ONE thing I missed: would be interesting how long the Batterie 1 can drive the train in extra time after the (batterieser/ooo testing) chemistry recovering. I'm shure they beat it again because no converter.

[@zeuss194]

the only usage I see of this is when you want to use a nimh rechargeable battery (1.2v) on an old device meant to run on alkaline battery (1.5v).

[@balika011]

If you count it it's only 9 extra laps. Maybe you forgot something?

[@qoole33]

That's because the counter starts on 1, not 0. As he said in his 'making a counter out of a calculator video' you have to subtract 1 from the total.

[@joshuanorris5860]

Even tho the batteryizer failed this is still interesting to me. I cant belive how small those things are. And that they work. Even tho it was "inefficient AS"!

[@Scythe42]

it unfolds it full potential if you use it in Solar Roadways :)

[@nickandpammorano9346]

Ok, enough is enough. Truth is the train motor uses X number of amps/current and the Batteriser uses X number of amps/current. Add them together and you get the train amps and the batteriser amps. So, it makes sense that the train WILL RUN LONGER by ITSELF. Based upon simple math, inspite of batteriser's claim to extend battery life, it is a mathamatical impossibility. Math does not lie.

[@SuprSi]

Math is a conspiracy! :P

[@joblessalex]

Huh, this video disappeared for a few hours yesterday.

[@Uartti]

This one is the directors cut version. The original version of the video was missing the part where the already used battery is put in to the Batteroo, at around the 8½ minute mark of this video.

[@joblessalex]

Uartti Saw the comments way down after this

[@dynorat1257]

it would of been interesting if you would of put battery 1 back in the train with out the Batteriser / Batteroo too see how long it would of taking with out it

[@sebassblack7286]

We can only use Alkaline batteries in some of our camera equipment, NiMH batteries put the camera into low power and then they turn off. These would allow us to use NiMH batteries. About the only use I could foresee that these would be any good.

[@meeder78]

Sebass Black It will probably ruin your NiMH batteries because it will discharge them to far.

[@Dan-mu5oy]

cant use them with rechargeable batteries but might get a small boost using them on alkaline as it seems your camera hits low power at around 1.2v (the normal charged voltage for NiMH) so i suspect the alkaline have power left when you camera is finished with them. Your cameras maybe the very rare and only case bateroo might work although still no where near the claimed 80%!

[@Yrouel86]

Remember that it kills battery gauges so is it worth to have a camera that will shut off without any warning of low battery, perhaps right when you need it the most for your work?

[@drussell_]

DON'T use it in a camera unless you want a corrupted SD card! Cameras need to be able to see the actual battery juice so they can shut down when they won't have enough power to encode and write the photo to the SD card... If you defeat this intentional mechanism and the Batteroo Sleeve shuts off when it is writing to the card, you're going to be doing some data recovery to try to get your photos back... LOL

[@GoldSrc_]

Don't ever use this crap on a camera, you will *NEVER* know when the batteries will die on you. If you do serious camera work, avoid this like the plague.

[@aidanrichards2485]

I can see one issue with this test that will make a voltage booster seem weaker; the LED I can imagine it is around a 1.4V LED which means in the test without any boosting the diode will drop below its cutout voltage and stop drawing current long before the battery is anywhere near dead where the boosted battery will be pushing current though the LED until it cant run at all. for complete fairness you should either keep an eye on the brightness of the LED throughout the test or remove it as you are testing the energy output and it is a non negligible amount of energy in such a small toy. I expect it will not account for more than 10% of the difference in run time but is something to remember.

[@God-CDXX]

white led's are typical 3 volts the light has a boost converter