EEVblog 1395 - Onkyo Repair SUCCESS

[@greeceuranusputin]

A resistor's job is to resist, they just get better with age.

[@BruceNitroxpro]

Comment Creator , LOL SURE they do! Just like this one! ROFL Thank God he knew enough to keep checking! The LAST supply, too. Who knew? ROFL

[@Sortskjegg]

Have you checked the dimmer-setting for the display brightness? It can be set to dim, dimmer, normal, I believe.

[@zroidys]

I have two different Onkyo AV receivers and yes, the brightness can be adjusted using the 'dimmer' button on the front panel. That's is a good receiver too.

[@beernutsonline]

Yeah! I almost screamed 'Push that dimmer button!!' :D (Have one just like it, only pristine, daily use. The video switch is acting up, of course.)

[@EEVblog]

Turns out there is a Dimmer button on the front panel, that fixed it!

[@ewoutbuhler5217]

@@EEVblog just what I thought, I happen to own a unit like that, so I knew the dimmer switch...

[@Mr.Leeroy]

Though so. Display on my 19-20 old Yamaha (pre HDMI age) is pretty bright, so I was a little skeptical that VFD actually gone dim.

[@adriansdigitalbasement]

Great fix! I've had to fix a few open resistors in things over the years. People always want to assume it's a bad cap or a shorted semiconductor... But those resistors definitely fail open more often than than people realize.

[@Kirillissimus]

That is 100% true. Even metal film SMD ones can just slowly develop a crack and one day suddenly become completely open or something like 800k over the initial value. With modern ones it is not often but it happens sometimes and I have seen a resistor like this with my own eyes. Never seen one becoming short though.

[@johnfrench7452]

Do the electrons fall out when they fail open or do you have to turn them a bit?

[@UberAlphaSirus]

@@tripplefives1402 I have told you 67000000 times not to exagerate. It's a small beam.

[@AldoSchmedack]

@@johnfrench7452 No, they can’t jump across.

[@EngineeringVignettes]

Foiled by an inert carbon rod... :)- I used to work in a TV repair shop then moved on to university and an engineering degree. Once when I was visiting the old shop the owner had a TV on the bench that had sat their for over a week with an unknown fault. Just for fun I traced the power circuit and saw the same power problems but I checked a resistor that could have caused the fault. Sure enough it was open. A few minutes later, with a quick bodge of a new resistor on the old one, and the set was up and running. The shop owner never tested the resistor because it was a fairly high value (~100K I seem to recall) and assumed it would never fail. 1) Thou shalt check voltages 2) Thou shalt not assume anything. Resistors can go open, caps can short (I even had a brand new shorted mil-spec cap once) A tech's biggest enemy is their perception on what should fail. Cheers,

[@PainterVierax]

agreed but for a repair shop, checking first the most common causes of failure saves time and money. It's only during a second inspection that repairmen have to check the rarer ones.

[@EngineeringVignettes]

@@PainterVierax yes they/we play the odds and try for a quick diag. My old boss was stumped though as he did not take the next step and check the obvious. He would have got it eventually, he wasn't an idiot or anything and knew his job. Cheers,

[@skweek256]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/imnPho17mtN5nM0

[@AldoSchmedack]

This needs pinned! 100% agree!

[@gilbus4989]

I am glad you did not give up. I wanted to see what the fault was. Your videos are very educational.

[@OfflineSetup]

Techmoan would have fixed it with a couple of new belts .....and I am aware the device does not have any!

[@oldguy9051]

He also wouldn't have had problems with the schematics being different to the silkscreen as he doesn't care for schematics in the first place!

[@heathwellsNZ]

Mr Carlson would have diagnosed the issue with a piece of test gear he made himself.. Mike Patey would have crashed it only to completely rebuild it from scrap parts...

[@ZXRulezzz]

@@Okurka. "The bigger the glob the better the job" (c)

[@yahnsolo]

Photonicinduction would raise -V around -24KV to see if it pops...”let’s see, it might glow a bit before that.... That will make some smoke for sure. We should really do it outside, shouldn't we?”

[@lightningdemolition1964]

Fran blanche would have just replaced the vfd with some Burroughs nixie tubes.

[@srivatsarupadhya6116]

I always love these repair videos👌. It's fun looking for the fault. Waiting for the next repair video!!!

[@A2an]

End price to the customer, parts $0.1 and wages $800,- That can sometimes be so hard to explain 😊 loved it ❤️

[@A2an]

​@@Okurka.yeah that might be, however it is meant as in general. I do a lot of repairs on industrial electronics mostly CNC and inverter for small wind turbines. If you search on Google by any of these products you get nada, nothing, sip, furthermore you are without any kind of schematics. So, often you end up with a big labor bill and almost nothing for parts. This can be tricky to explain to a customer. Luckily the item that is for repairing, in my little world, is usually discontinued. That helps a lot

[@pfb3264]

Great video- and yep gone down many rabbits holes in the past with a repair. “Thou shall measure voltages” is a great lesson to start with simple fault finding first!

[@ChannelJanis]

Nice video! Love people fixing their stuff rather than buying new

[@jlucasound]

You are a genius, Dave! Thank You for your Channel. So awesome to watch all of the experts in electronics. You and the many others that provide similar content. I hope I get it down one day. I am getting there. I need to get the math equations in my "toolbox".

[@ckm-mkc]

Just watched part 1 and part 2 immediately shows up! Awesome!

[@PatrickRigney]

Used to have a similar model and iirc the display has a dimmer/brightness control in settings

[@donepearce]

I have a Marantz with the same display. It's on full brightness, and I can only see it in a dark room. I did try to find a new display but no luck. I shall live with it.

[@oldguy9051]

@@donepearce I have a slightly newer Denon receiver which has a partially dim display (in the center area). Perhaps a common trait as Marantz and Denon are basically only labels of the same holding company?

[@EEVblog]

Turns out there is a Dimmer button on the front panel, that fixed it!

[@amirb715]

i think if the filament voltage (AC) loses its DC bias it becomes very dim. I dont recall you measured any DC bias on the filament. that might be worth a try

[@cambridgemart2075]

DC bias is exactly the fault being investigated, as noted in the previous video.

[@amirb715]

@@cambridgemart2075 yes, my bad. the filament bias is also taken from Vp

[@EEVblog]

Turns out there is a Dimmer button on the front panel, that fixed it!

[@ibd1977]

@@EEVblog Yep those darn dimmer button features ;)

[@charlesball6519]

@@EEVblog The one that said "Display"?

[@oninbridders]

Dimming is sometimes a setting, certainly is on my Sony, for bedroom and dark living room environments.

[@AldoSchmedack]

Same on my old Pioneer.

[@MrScooter46290]

Yep it's the "Dimmer" button 9th from the right on those slim buttons there in the middle.

[@BenMitro]

Phew, my life is now complete. Perseverance is underrated.

[@JonnyFlash80]

Awesome fix. Just a simple resistor blown. Go figure. This was an entertaining watch!

[@frosty129]

R9010! Somebody called it in the previous video.

[@Petertronic]

Good repair, really enjoyed this

[@VoodooZ]

Great investigative work!

[@mickeyfilmer5551]

Good learning curve for me.

[@tomdegoede7565]

There is only one thing more satisfying then a repair vid, and that's carbonize a thick ribeye on the barbie...

[@Nightowl_IT]

You can run bodge / probe / sense wires to diferent spots for testing while assembled. Or get extra ribbon cables with the right plugs for the repair.

[@jimmyramkisoen191278]

I did put my money on the 1/2 w resistor. I had the same with a harman kardon receiver. Replaced all components but still all components where overheating without connecting the display. So i bought a 4 dollar buck convertor and connected it to the transformer and display and all is working now.

[@momfiethehunter504]

literaly just repaired a 210 harman kardon subwoofer, replaced the diode from a 51 Ohm 1w with a 100 Ohm 2w (some powersupplys came with a 100 Ohm 1 and it seems to work fine after changing the 51 Ohm one to a 100 Ohm). the traces were all burnt up so i had to solder it directly to the compontents it was connected to, and there were some capacitors that had lost capacity for the PW on function so i had to replace those aswell

[@conodigrom]

Hello there, free tip: throw that buck converter and replace it with a pololu or equivalent quality one. You'll save yourself future huuuge overvoltage and noise issues!

[@BruceNitroxpro]

@@momfiethehunter504 , I'd have recapped the whole thing. Caps are so much cheaper than my time.

[@momfiethehunter504]

@@BruceNitroxpro dont really need to recap the whole thing and there is a better aftermarket powersupply for it anyway that im going to end up installing

[@BruceNitroxpro]

@@momfiethehunter504 , I know... there are a lot of reasons not to recap, but I didn't know you were going to engineer a new PS for it, and I sure wouldn't want to half do a job and have it fail midterm.

[@andymouse]

Love this sort of vid...cheers.

[@jonathanr2830]

Way to go! I enjoyed watching you work and problem solve. It's a good vicarious learning experience for me. Loved, the interjected video, "Confidence is high." Thank you, and all the best!

[@remu3881]

I must admit I I didn't think you would repair this as it looked so complicated but hey Well done 👏

[@mworld]

I have this exact model. Still works fine.

[@goldcountryruss7035]

We have a similar but probably newer Onkyo that has newer failed to please. It still works perfectly with it companion, a last generation Samsung Plasma to bring us delight daily. This pair serves us faithfully. No need to rush out and buy new technology when the old stuff is working so well.

[@toxicpadda]

I'm glad it's not always this hard to repair stuff. But it's very satisfying when you do find the fault.

[@cogwheel42]

I have the next generation of this receiver (TX-SR706) and had to re-flow the DSP chip with a heat gun when the speakers stopped coming on.

[@davidgunn3724]

I've owned 2-3 Onkyos and had some of them replaced under warranty/recall because of heat-related failures. They run pretty hot- especially the board with all the DSP/CPUs on it. I eventually installed a pair of 120mm fans in my A/V cabinet to keep air circulating over the top of the receiver.

[@yannicbrose]

Worked for me! Thanks a lot!

[@Kirillissimus]

That is why I always avoid doing repairs for money. Imagine going through all that and then being asked why it took the whole day and why you want so much for it. Like "you've just replaced a single cheap-ass resistor, how hard could it be".

[@EEVblog]

"All that" would have been an hours work though if I wasn't shooting a video about it and really wanted to get the job done for money.

[@mgm5457]

Well, in the Copier and Printer repair Biz I often went out on calls where the Customer stated that they had added toner, pulled out the jam, tried everything etc. and I would find something stupid like the cord being loose or a power strip not being turned on. If I was being nice and the Customer was gracious and friendly I'd either say no charge and point out why, or if they were a real ARSE about it ... I'd plug the cord in, pretend to work on something complicated and make up a story how a certain part had failed / techno babble, etc. and bill them for an hour. Especially if I already tried to help them over the phone ... and they really didn't want to try fixing it.

[@chongli297]

Read about (legendary electrical engineer) Charles Steinmetz and his work for Henry Ford. This problem of customers not appreciating the work is as old as time itself.

[@PistachoGirasol]

Great job, thanks for sharing, love this troubleshooting vlogs.

[@boundbythecurve]

One always finds what they're looking for in the last place one looks.

[@karlharvymarx2650]

To be fair, one generally stops looking when one finds.

[@karlharvymarx2650]

@@Okurka. Do you know where I could get a clue? After half a century, you would think I would have gotten one by now. All this time I thought people were actually expressing frustration that the last place was the right place, and too annoyed to realize why.

[@brianhginc.2140]

Why not just press the 'DIMMER' button on the front panel to set the display to a brighter contrast? The button is labeled right in front on the top row of buttons. Right in between listening mode and clear...

[@EEVblog]

Just discovered that :-D

[@TheManLab7]

@@Okurka. I've always noticed that with loads of things he does. But no one's perfect mind.

[@JonnyFix]

Well done for persisting with it!

[@AintBigAintClever]

I fixed mine today. Exact same fault, but I saw a different video before yours which showed the same fault and fix. Got a 5 watt job in there now. With regards to the two wildly different resistor values, the 507 and 607 use different transformer model numbers, so I suspect it's something to do with differing secondary voltages.

[@RoccoWocco]

I have had this exact problem. It's very common on this model and as I did not have the skills to find the problem myself when I fixed it. I was very happy google was a thing. However the HDMI on screen display is still broken. Also fairly common. However the repair for that seems a bit too cumbersome and I don't use it anyway.

[@fixtillbroke]

. Glad that you resolved the display operation. I don't have the knowledge you have to read diagrams and would get too frustrated to stay with it that long. I have a Onkyo receiver also, a bit newer model. It has a dimmer button on the face-plate in between the THX and Memory buttons. It has a few brightness combinations including a surround light for the volume knob. I found it by accident on the third day I had this thing. Maybe your unit (if you still have it ) has a similar button on that top row.

[@jmiller007]

Sounds about right. I mentioned checking the resistors on the VP rail in the last video because it was a common failure on onkyos for a number of years. I made the same repair on my txsr805 which was two years older, except I replaced them with 1w jobbies. Onkyo never learned.

[@MikeB_UK]

10/10 for continuing with this and fixing it.

[@texastyrannyresponseteam794]

great fix.. i had to fix the center channel amp driver/tranny and a few other components in mine... BTW- you can adjust the vhd brightness in the menu...

[@smallenginedude71]

seriously impressive fault finding skills dave! hats off mate

[@ruudb72]

Oh YES!! You did it! Great video. It is always a treat if we see it come to a good end. And you managed to set the display brightness I read! So..you have a nice device now.

[@SkyfallLodge]

I fixed a receiver unit, Pioneer I believe. It was a fuse. after replacing the fuse I found that it blew again when a metal microphone that was being used touched the metal case front.

[@johnsonlam]

I like repairing video, did learn something everytime, but it takes time and not easy to do.

[@lasersbee]

I hope you replaced the 1/2 watt 2.2 Ohm with a 1 watt. Then you will never need to change it again.

[@p_mouse8676]

Yeah, or sometimes I just use two in parallel with double the value.

[@NICK-uy3nl]

I would replace it with a 2 watter

[@carldawson5069]

That may have been intended to be a cheaper fuse.

[@carldawson5069]

This is why the wife gets upset when you say, "just a few more minutes more dear, i am almost done!".

[@augustinchenault9981]

That’s a bold claim

[@michaelmiller641]

Yes I did enjoy that trip down the rabbit hole!

[@mlefe09]

Excellent! Loved it :)

[@peterjmcgee4680]

If you get the remote control for the unit you are able to raise and lower the brightness on your display with the remote control

[@circuitblog01]

God bless you dave

[@abpccpba]

Thanks always like your troubler shooting.

[@PeteTheFeat1]

At 4:23 I thought that little transistor is sitting awfully close to the edge. Lo and behold, it jumped :D

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

I used to work in the US Navy, and we had a +5vdc 50amp power supply that failed in a test bench. We tore that thing down and we finally found a precision voltage divider with a zener diode and two 1/4 watt 0.001% resistors that fed a constant voltage to a Darlington pair which was part of the voltage regulator. One of the resistors was open, and you would think we would check those first, or maybe second... but NOOOO... after a full 8 hours to looking at the regulator board, a buddy came in from the night shift and found it in about 30 seconds. Egg on face. Thermal expansion and contraction over the years, and one of the resistors just gave up. We replaced both (after ordering them both, and they were in stock!!), and it came up and ran just fine. So, never overlook the obvious, and if the resistors are all good, then move on to the next step of troubleshooting. Learning the hard way!! Thanks for a great video, Dave!!

[@wefukthenwo]

I just pulled this same model apart - for parts! Onkyo's are great for spare parts with the Nichicon/Rubycon caps, ect.

[@nixonnelson5181]

something learned! the pre repair test sequence was useful !

[@ptronix]

I have a marantz tuner amp with vfd that I've owned for 30 years, strangely the display is still bright & it's had a fair bit of use. nice repair

[@Ihavetruth22]

those are light bulbs. That onkyo must have had weaker bulbs or used quite a bit.

[@markbedwani7722]

The dimmer was on. All good after he pressed the dimmer switch. It has 3 levels of brightness

[@flymypg]

Clearly, R9010 knew resistance was futile.

[@GreatSpike]

Congratulates for 800K Subscribers

[@artursmihelsons415]

Great repair!! Yeah, parts and screws like to run away.. 👍😂

[@grahambambrook313]

I acquired a Leader LS1020 'scope a couple of years ago that had no seperation between traces and no verticaql adjustment. At first I thought one channel was kapputski but it's just that they were both occupying the same space on the screen. Cause? One open 33kΩ 1/2 Watt resister. Took a while to find but at least an easy fix!!🤪

[@tony359]

been repairing a few onkyo's too and some of those components are designed to run at stupidly high temperatures...

[@debug_duck]

Fixed a Nubert Soundbar a few days ago, it was a resistor in the power line as well, a 10R SMD

[@fixnreview]

Subs from the Philippines is watching

[@phoenixdundee]

I've installed many a 607 and the biggest problem was the HDMI firmware. HDCP errors were common and the firmware updates regularly bricked them. Great sounding receivers, but not a patch on the Denon and Yamaha's. I still have a beast of a Yamaha Z1 and it's incredible.

[@gorak9000]

The other big problem with these things is the board to board connectors, and the cheap phenolic single sided board. If one of the pins is even slightly not lined up when you plug the boards together, it's super easy to push a pin through the board and rip a trace off in the process. Ask me how I know about that issue! For the prices they charge for amps / receivers, they sure are built as cheaply as possible!

[@valleynomad]

Nice job! Mine is 606. They (606 & 607) usually develop some issues with several caps in HDMI switching circuit due to the heat on the input/video board.

[@rkupka]

On Onkyo TX-NR646 receiver, it is possible to adjust the brightness of the FD with the remote control, in 3 brightness steps - look for "Dimmer" on the remote.

[@EEVblog]

Turns out there is a Dimmer button on the front panel, that fixed it!

[@georgeabraham7256]

...the brightness man...

[@Electronics-Rocks]

Great to show real life repair

[@tedmich]

tiny value LIST resistor was maybe for SUPER BRIGHT VFD? Worth a try!

[@duroxkilo]

very nicely done!! i noticed the volume was quite high when powered ON (57) but there's an option in the menu to set up the default volume (20 is alright depending on your speakers). oh, and these receivers have the option to bi-amp your speakers. you don't find that sort of wizardy in this price range. the previous model tx-sr606 became famous for a few caps on the hdmi board getting bad after only 3-4 yrs of operation.

[@videolabguy]

I'm just thinking out loud here. But, that burnt resistor was immediately followed by an electrolytic capacitor. I would have replaced that cap, and the other in the same circuit, as a matter of course. It's possible the cap is leaking and pulling (stealing) current through the 2.2 ohm resistor and making the display dim.

[@andybruce4034]

Yes, as others have said, there is a display dimmer function, it's a button on the remote control only, if you have the remote try it! Great video's, always entertaining.

[@EEVblog]

The button is on the front panel!

[@davedamngood1076]

Thank you.

[@classicaudioadventures]

Hey Dave, I had that same model a while back. There was an option to dim the display somewhere...I can't remember if it was only accessible on the remote but it's something to check. Congrats on the repair.

[@tomservo5007]

I hope Dave sees your comment, there is indeed a display brightness setting.

[@EEVblog]

It's on the front panel!

[@danielhostetler5387]

I feel like I learned a lot. Very fascinating!

[@NurdRage777]

I had this once before Dave, leaking transistor it kinda worked but was leaking. It was in my vintage audio amp. It made a popping cracking sound sometimes it got worse until I was able to find it (without fancy scope). It was a damn bugger it drove me crazy for a long time until it was completely failed and obvious to find.

[@hamradio3716]

Excellent as usual. It would have been nice to have all the voltages documented in a block diagram. I like repairing the Pioneer audio gear.

[@JEdwardBanasikJr]

Thank you for this! I have a similar Onkyo from 2008 sitting in a box that went red flashing light. Bought a newer model in 2017 to replace but this will give me direction to fixing it. Will repurpose if I can get fixing. I've been very pleased with Onkyo receivers though they generate a heck of lot of heat and feel like they should have a fan in them for cooling.

[@simontay4851]

I added a 12V 120mm fan running slowly on 5V to the inside of the top cover to my Denon AV amp. Even running slowly, the top cover feels a lot cooler.

[@GrantDiffey]

Red flashing light is much more serious than this because it's often something wrong in the power amp section causing overtemp on that detect circuit :( (My TX-SR603 is sitting on the dining table with the preamp board pulled out currently

[@dennisnorris2989]

i have a tx-nr515 which i believe is from around the same time as that unit and the network chip has a defect that causes it to fail and loose all video output. They had a recall to fix them but the replacement quit working eventually and I found that they put too low of temp caps on the processor board which gets blazing hot. The softstart relay also failed at one point and I replaced the caps with higher temp ones and put a heatsink and fan in the unit to make it hobble along.

[@stirlingschmidt6325]

Well done!

[@FlakeSE]

nice one as a garage clanger

[@kevincozens6837]

Once again we find a piece of gear costing hundreds(?) of dollars brought to its knees by a part costing a few pennies. Good job tracking it down. Gives that piece of gear a new lease on life and one less piece of equipment that won't wind up in landfill.

[@Francirius]

i used to work in a repair lab for some RF radios and chargers and one day i found an ant shorting the legs of a power transistor...it was funny

[@daneprostamo-brown6552]

I have an onkyo tx-sr508 which actually produces some really decent audio. I’m planning on modifying the circuit such that I can have 2 stereo inputs instead of one stereo input driving the bi-amp circuit. This will allow me to separately tune the mid and high drivers with my pro audio dsp and potentially run the system fully active and bypass the passive crossover in the speakers

[@alexmag5735]

Great diagnostic skills. I wish car mechanics would have the same level of knowledge in their area....

[@grantm902]

hope you put that resistor on a pike to deter future bugs

[@arfer1470]

Great repair, maybe get some foam cleaner on it, after all you said you were doing it for a relie 👍😀.

[@MatthewSuffidy]

That whole time I was thinking like look at all that metal all over hitting each other. Could have been more careful...

[@tehklevster]

And then there's the "why did it go hot?" uncertainty principle. Nice repair.

[@slip0n0fall]

I've worked on this model before, what a pain. From memory all the final amps had to be desoldered in order to replace a single one.

[@jeremylister89]

Resistor probably failed due to surge current in charging the 470uF63V cap. Depending on voltage risetime, source impedance and cap ESR, there's a potential peak power of around 600 watts (it will be a lot less, but you get the point). I'd replace it with a wirewound or a dedicated surge rated resistor. Agree 2R2 or 82R is very odd.

[@JJ-kr6ky]

Maybe that resistor wouldn’t have failed if it was” flappin in the breeze “

[@s8wc3]

The boards in these get their ground from being screwed to the back panel, which is screwed to the rest of the chassis. That's why it was throwing a fit when you didn't have the boards screwed in properly. Pain in the ass really but i'm sure they have a good reason for it

[@DarkMatterX1]

Economy.

[@mc_cpu]

Press the dimmer button to control the display intensity!

[@EEVblog]

Found it :-D

[@xoxo2008oxox]

I just finished watching part 1 and skimming comments... This KZbin magic is amazing! Yay! Oh and someone did say the R9010 in Part 1 comments so... chicken dinner indeed!

[@CrashCarson14]

Yep I have an SR805 and the front screen wouldn’t work. Just a resistor needed. Much harder to diagnose without knowing anything about electronics components, and looking through the forums.

[@markbrown8097]

Murphy was an optimist.