EEVblog

[@divewizard]

The temperature sensor for the weller is in the tip. The Hakko is in the heating element, that is why the Weller take longer to apparently heat up, and why it cools down faster on your sponge test.

[@thanatosor]

So is Hakko worthy ?

[@obidahasdia4095]

Yes i got x3 hakko 888d . It heat up in like 15 seconds ​@@thanatosor

[@obidahasdia4095]

​@@thanatosorthats a blink of an eye . You prepare solder and it will be ready to use

[@thanatosor]

@@obidahasdia4095 nice to know. Seem to be on pair with Pinecil V2. My cheap station + 907 took like 2 mins to heat up

[@bkboggy]

I bought my FX888D about a year ago. I was feeling a bit torn about buying it, because it looked like a poorly designed toy. I almost went for a Weller station (I think that's also a decent choice based on recommendations). However, once I got the Hakko, I was blown away by its build quality and how well it works. Don't let its looks deter you from giving it a try. The aesthetic actually grew on me and I like how it looks now -- it has a certain character to it and it's an interesting talking point with anyone who's unfamiliar with Hakko. I'm a Software Engineer, so I don't mess with electronics often, but when I do, this thing does the job and does it well.

[@supersabrosinho]

Yeah that's the only thing that's keeping me from buying right. It looks like a toy that comes in happy meals 🤣😆

[@els1f]

@@supersabrosinho that is 100% what I'm going through rn😄

[@supersabrosinho]

@@els1f I went ahead and bought it. I've never worked with such an nice iron, well worth it!

[@vejymonsta3006]

Not bad. I know some software guys that use those wunhunglo 10 dollar irons on government equipment.

[@michaeldean5787]

Haha my thoughts exactly. You've convinced me and I'll get mine now

[@jamescaldwell2095]

"I haven't used this in anger yet." 😂 that's what I need to know. How tools perform when you're ready to start throwing things.

[@tingvictoriano6517]

LOL

[@mattde1976]

@Travis Ireland LOL I have 888 for 2 years not single time need to throw it 😂😂😂😂😂

[@tomvleeuwen]

The Hakko clearly has an 80's alarm clock interface, as +louisrossman would call it :-)

[@Josieemon]

i dont have much of a problem with it as i dont need to change temperature that much, but i do agree that changing temperature is a huge pain.

[@Newberntrains]

For UI the Weller is easy but if u never change temps and use it for light use the Weller would work

[@rasz]

its programming VCR timer interface :/ + looks like HAKKO lies about temperature - doesnt show the drop for couple of seconds, like garbage chinese clones

[@Maskddingo]

Is it odd that I just want a knob to adjust temperature? It's almost immediate, and it's like having potentially infinite 'memories'. Repeatedly mashing buttons to get to a given temperature range doe not inspire me to want one of these things. I change temperature enough when I'm working that this is a major consideration for me. I get that there are 'memories' with the digital buttons, but I can't see how those would be easy to access, or remember what temp is in what location. All this is solved by a knob or two.

[@WCM1945]

@@KevinJDildonik It's odd that the Weller shows places for presets. That's probably gonna be a "-P" model coming out later for another $50.

[@zanthiel2009]

At my company, everyone was using the Weller we1010. I found a Hakko Fx888 in a closet . I set it up and love it!

[@stefanwilkens]

Recently picked up a WE1010 in Europe and I re-did the temperature check with a calibrated extremal recorder. I found that the Weller does get very close to the set temperature (certainly within the +/-6 deg they advertise). I could not replicate the 20 degree offset you saw. I used 60/40 to ensure good thermal coupling to the thermocouple used for measuring. You can certainly see it undulate around the set point by about 5 degrees and it tends to be on the low side of the set point - but it's fairly good for me.

[@darikdatta]

I think the Weller simply senses temperature a lot closer to the tip.

[@robertosladic3430]

Yea i think weller actually senses temp of the tip while hakko senses temp of a heater. Cuz the heater doesnt actually cool down but the tip does.

[@thefeet]

@@robertosladic3430 thermister placement and yeah... like i said above... i don't know anyone that "Speed Solders" and would buy a station in this price range. my vote is Weller!

[@TheDefpom]

I think the hakko hides the temperature drop, as though it waits for a significant drop before updating the display.

[@EEVblog]

Seems like there is some delay

[@Astaldoath]

well if its a drop of 1-3 c i doubt you are gonna notice it in soldering maybe im wrong a drop of 1-2 c in cpu heat isnt that great either, when your cpu is hot u wanna keep it in the 30-50c range

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

EEVblog Alternative theory: The Weller sensor is (thermally) closer to the tip, so if the tip drops to 200, the Weller shows it, while the Hakko won't show until the material in between has been cooled down. Similarly, the Hakko might show the core getting hot before the heat has propagated to the tip.

[@Wilson84KS]

John I think thats it, because there is space between the tip and heating element of the Hakko the heating element doesn't cool down that fast. Also Maybe the Weller transformer has less A, couldn't see it, so it needs longer to heat up and the Hakko can hold the temp better because maybe of one more amp. But there is a mod for that Hakko tips, wrapping some thin copper around the heating element.

[@helgew9008]

Definitely. It looks like the Weller has the heating element on the outside of the tip and the thermocouple inside the bore in the tip. The result is that the Weller will display a much more honest tip temperature. The Hakko must have both the heating element and the thermocouple inside the bore, which means it measures the temperature of the heating element, and not the actual tip. Due to the design difference, you cannot use the internal thermometers to do a comparison. They simply do not measure the same thing. The wet sponge against the shaft is completely pointless, which is also confirmed by the actual soldering test.

[@kmorger]

I was a huge Weller fan, until I tried my first Hakko. We have Metcals at work, so I'm well aware of Hakko's limitations, but for an affordable iron, Hakko's rock. That said, the UI is irritating, and I'd have gladly paid a bit more for a workable UI.

[@BryanTorok]

That is what is swaying me toward the Weller. Would it really have cost Hakko anything meaningful to put another button on it?

[@edinfific2576]

​@@BryanTorok Lacking one more button was as stupid as its look.

[@edinfific2576]

@@kmorger Which brand tips have the best solder wetting abilities (and lifetime)? I thought it was Hakko and Weller, but apparently I didn't know about better brands. I understand there is also a difference based on price ranges from the same brand.

[@sdiubw8943f]

"All the best stuff's made in Japan" -Marty McFly, 1955 (Back to the Future III) Love the reference Dave!

[@Penisdoll]

It was excellent

[@thefeet]

From the future 6 years in 2024. After watching this it was CLEAR the Weller was my choice. :) Personal preference. :)

[@michaelp3076]

I have a Weller WTCPS simple soldering station that I have had for almost 40 years. I have never had any trouble and the tips is cleaner and last longer then any of the newer Unger stations I have at work.

[@pibbles-a-plenty1105]

Right on!!! I have five WTCP's and they'll still be doing the job when I put the other foot in.

[@xfloodcasual8124]

If I could go back in time to buy American products, I would. Unfortunately, that era is long gone thanks to American laziness and greedy American CEOs. God Bless America.

[@thefeet]

What a great review/comparison video. I went with the Weller. It may be hypothesis but I think the temp. sensors/circuitry in the Hakko is misleading as the "delay" is clearly noticeable from the sensor to the readout. If you are not "Speed-soldering" ( i know not of one person who does) go with that one if it makes you feel warm/fuzzy. Weller. Hands down. My choice but that's just me! GREAT VIDEO!

[@george8bitsworth]

Boy you sure drew a lot of comments. My little contribution is that my first soldering iron was a 30 watt thing from Radio Shack. After seeing EEVBlog #180 I decided to get the Hakko FX888. To my (initial) dismay I couldn't find one because it had been replaced by the 888D. I didn't buy it immediately waiting for a sale, In July 2016 Fry's Electronics had a two day E-Mail sale, The FX888D was $64 (US) + $5.76 tax (it has been on sale again at least once since then). A couple of notes. Even though I live where solder is pronounced sodder I changed the temp readings from °F to °C. In electrical engineering all the measurements are metric so it seemed right to apply that to soldering temperature. By the way my iron came with the chisel tip. Maybe that is a regional thing. My evaluation based on this video and my experiences is that I would go with the Hakko over the Weller. From what you showed the performance of each is essentially the same. The main deciding factor for me is the Hakko stand--I like that it has some weight to it. Until I got my Hakko I was always burning myself. The stand that I had was so flimsy I generally didn't bother to use it and thus when I picked the iron up sometimes I'd grab the tip. The user interface looks much better on the Weller but the documentation is lacking. The two buttons on the Hakko seem almost inadequate but they obviously kept it simple to keep it in the $100 range--and if you RTFM you can still do anything you need with that interface.

[@kungfumaster8171]

Been using Hakko since I've seen your first video review on them 5 years ago. Been happy ever since

[@TheDarkTiamat2011]

23:15 that was an unfair race^^ the weller only took like one second more for the same thing, but you gave the hakko a head start...

[@jarrodroberson]

FYI - The Hakko FX-888D can be had at Fry's for as little as $79 US on a regular basis. Promo code sales about every 3 months have it for $79 with a promo code you get for signing up for their email list. I got mine end of Nov one year for $69 US.

[@ShallRemainUnknown]

RIP Fry's...

[@CaspaB]

I don't believe the Hakko temperature got to 350 at 20 degrees / sec then stopped abruptly at 350! You need to measure the ACTUAL tip temperatures. This applies to the sponge cooling test also. I suspect the temperatures are measured at the heater and depending on the conductivity between heater and tip there could be quite an error. I've worked in temp measurement and control a lot of my working life and the response of the Hakko seems unrealistic. It gives naive users false confidence in the meter. The Weller is believable. btw: I published a resettable timer circuit in Silicon Chip Circuit Notebook (March 2016) to cut the power after 20 mins idle time.

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Charles Tivendale Yup I think Roger over on KainkaLabs did a great job on a video about the Atten Digital soldering iron temperature discrepancies. Although he was doing a video about fixing the problem and looking at how Atten's 2 wire elements sense temperature with a thermocouple in series with the element. The overshoot and calibration temp are usually way off, as are the maximum temperature. I don't trust any of the ones I've owned, but I've never owned or been enslaved by someone with a fat "pro's" wallet. I've never caught up to Mr Jones's and his '$500k pencil.'

[@dusanmilojevic3017]

A gay on one forum tested soldering stations tip temperature.He measured the tip temperature and absolute winner is old Weller magnastat.

[@Stokosworld]

The Hakko is a bullshit artist. Huge lag on the display vs actual tip temp and creative "Brakes" when it get to temp. the Hakko is a toy.

[@rdbanks2823]

I’ve had my 888D since it was first released over in the U.K. and I love it, replaced an old weller that was passed down. A lot of people complain about the temp control (but I really don’t mind it, easy enough plus with presets it’s simple. The only bugs are the power switch, the forever shrinking sponge, seriously mine is the size of a 2 pence piece :/ ha and perhaps the lack of ‘stackability’ (but I can live with that for such a beauty of a design)! I am glad someone else has commented on the DIN connector, it does flap around in the breeze! Haha! I’ve had a Weller in the past and used other higher end ones and they are pretty good for the price to be fair! Plus I kind of like that colour scheme... I don’t think you’d go wrong with either to be honest, both looks great! Longevity wise, perhaps I’d look at the Weller (only down to my last one being about 15 years old) however I’m yet to have any issues with the Hakko (a lot of complaints about them burning out but perhaps it’s standby heating, I’m pretty sympathetic when it comes to tooling). Loved the review Dave!

[@happyhippr]

you really should do a thermal camera view for the heat dropping sponge test so we dont have to rely on the provided displays..

[@Buddy-po4hv]

I have a Weller station that was made in W.Germany, 40 years and still working like day one 👍

[@thefeet]

I don't doubt that one bit!

[@rossmanngroup]

I can't imagine going back to stations where the heater is not integrated into the tip. It's like going from Axiom Audio M3 to a gramophone. NEVER! A lot of the knockoff Hakko 951 look dodgy inside but they do at least work. I'd rather a ripoff of newer technology than quality manufacturer using old junk technology. I can't believe these are even sold anymore on stations costing more than $50 in 2018. Just watching the time they both took to heat up made me want to cry. It isn't simply impatience that makes these irons lame. When touching the pin of an IC that is going to absorb a bunch of heat like ground or power plane, the temp drops and the iron's controller sends more power to compensate. When the heater is not built into the tip that process takes way longer and you wind up having to solder at much higher temperatures to get anything done, or deal with the more aggravating method of doing work with an iron whose temperature dips. It sucks so bad. Never going back to this stuff!!

[@electronash]

Louis Rossmann Have you tried any Metcal / OKI stuff with the curie point tips? I've used Metcal for about 12 years (since using them in electronics factories), and never felt the need for manual temperature control. As you say, the whole point of them is that they boost the RF power to the copper slug in the tip, so work great on both small SMT stuff and large ground planes. I agree - I don't think I could ever go back to using an iron with a heater that is "indirectly" heating the tip.

[@EEVblog]

The near instant heat irons are great, but are there any in the $100 price bracket?

[@kwpctek9190]

Around $230 now gets 120 watts of American Pace power ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHa4o5yOpL6DsLM )

[@God-CDXX]

I built a home made Hakko knock off station using a 33 volt transformer from a old hi fi amp and one of those EBay Hakko knock off wands and a few parts from that old hi fi amp and it will out perform bolt of these with a 8 second warm up time

[@God-CDXX]

ps I do use real Hakko chisel tips

[@viperidaenz1]

The hakko has the temperature sensor embedded in to the ceramic element, so it's measuring the element temperature not the tip. I don't know where the weller sensor is. Perhaps you should do you thermal test with your thermal camera? Element temperature is irrelevant.

[@ianmacdonald6350]

Used Weller irons throughout most of my career in electronics, and still rate them as the best. Some guys preferred Antex but I never liked them. The cheapest route to a decent soldering setup though, is a Yihua station with a Hakko tip. ;)

[@DuncSargent]

Still pertinent today. I'm getting the HAKKO. Thanks for being here for me!

[@thesimbon]

I have the hakko and I like the compact size and the brass cleaning tip inside the holder saves also extra space. I personally hardly use the sponge as the tips gets cleaned really well with the brass. I agree that the analog version is more straightforward in changing the temperature with just a knob, but once you get the presets configured it is actually fast to change between them using just a button

[@MatthewSuffidy]

Hakko looks like an SGI workstation.

[@VEC7ORlt]

You make SGI look bad!

[@csabasanta5696]

Wow, great observation! Now I know why I like them so much. Just take a look at the O2s ...

[@xfloodcasual8124]

@@csabasanta5696 O2 was actually a giant soldering iron in disguise

[@jonstenSE]

I'll take my TS100 any day of the week! Integrated heater in the tip and heats up in seconds, sure it makes each tip very expensive ~$12, but they are high quality and dead easy to switch. Slim design, some may argue that this is a con, but I see it as a huge con as it sits very well in the hand and means it is portable (you can literally fit it among your pens in your bag!). It's powered from DC 10-24V, meaning that you can take you with you out in the field and power from a lipo, at home I use an old laptop charger. All of this for $50, I repeat $50! It doesn't come with any stand, but for the price one can by a decent stand separately. I would also recommend that you buy a good and flexible extension cable with 90 degree power jack (standard 5.5mm DC jack), the cable drapes much better and gives significant better experience!

[@arongooch]

Been a subscriber since the early days of around video 30 or so and have to say your channel is awesome Dave. Couldn't imagine a week go by without a good EEVBlog video. Keep up the great work. Cheers.

[@ZylonFPV]

For those who dislike the blue/yellow colour of the Hakko, it’s available in silver! www.proto-pic.co.uk/user/products/hakko_fx888d_000__50459.jpg

[@ottersdangerden]

Futuristic tonka toy! LOL

[@Maskddingo]

Why do they insist on making these things look like cheap toys that are from the vision of the 'future' that Hollywood had in the 90's?

[@SillyOmega]

@@Maskddingo because japenses like designs that are simple. Probaly what makes there stuff last so long.

[@Maskddingo]

@@SillyOmega um no. You don't have to look like a toy to be simple. In fact, making it look like a toy makes it more complex and thus less reliable. Love classic Haako, but they have lost their way IMHO.

[@skmetal7]

We go through so many of those damn weller iron handles because the cord swivels around and eventually breaks the wires inside. I've been taking a large zip tie and tightening it around the flexible part of the strain relief. Holds the wire tight at least.

[@gradeahonky]

This video is awesome and hilarious. I'm an American with possibly the most American accent that has ever existed and I vow to make the word "dickie" work in my tongue the way this guy does. Cheers!

[@RaisingAwesome]

Could it be that the Weller tip sensor is closer to the surface/ambient and in turn the temp reading responds more quickly? This could be a engineering trick on the Hakko and compensated in the temperature controls. A true test would be to somehow measure the temperature of the "work" versus using their readout.

[@bruhdabones]

The Hakko fx888d can be bought in different configurations, especially on amazon. Mine included a chisel tip and the flush (90 degree) wire cutters. Don’t knock Hakko for your cone tip, knock your supplier!

[@EEVblog]

Fair call.

[@bruhdabones]

EEVblog Thanks for the reply! I’m a sophomore in High School (USA). I got the 888d as a Christmas present over a year ago! It’s wonderful :D

[@mirzasaj]

Hakko using since 3 years works like a champ!! Enjoyed every soldering done with it paid off already!

[@giorgiobiso]

The man who designed the Hakko control panel probably still calls friends with rotary dial phone.

[@johnstone7697]

I actually ordered a WE1010 and returned it. Once I saw the familiar lousy spring stand, and the same plug on the pencil as my WES51, I realized I wasn't getting much more for my $120 for the 1010 vs the $75 I had spent on the 51, other than a digital readout . The WES51 performed well while it lasted, which wasn't very long. The pencil died after about 3 yrs of use, first with an intermittent plug, and then with a loose tip that couldn't be fully tightened down. The 1010 pencil doesn't look like it's very different, so I wouldn't expect much longer life. I work on a lot of point to point vintage electronics, so I tend to run my iron fairly hot. Still, no reason the pencil should fail so quickly. I just pulled out my old standby WTCP, which has to be at least 25 yrs. old. Legacy Weller stuff was pretty much bulletproof, but they seem to be riding on their reputation. After seeing this video, I'm leaning heavily towards the Hakko. Funky styling not withstanding, it just looks to be a sturdier unit. Really appreciate the info.

[@jimix321]

A few days ago a frien of mine had to do some soldering work and i let him use my 888d and my favourite tin and he asked me how much did i spend on it. I said 120$ and he said that it was to expensive. That same day he went to buy a cheapo soldering iron and generic tin because he thought it would be the same because tin is tin and heat is heat... Lather on that same day he was asking me for the link to the hakko. You know buy cheap buy twice XD

[@GLITCH_-.-]

Are you not able to return undamaged tech where you live? (except tin of course)

[@jimix321]

But soldering irons get dirty and oxidized as fast as you turn them on (and the cheaper ones even more) and for the 10$ he spent on the welder wasn't worth it to lose more time with it. Pd: I live within the european union so yes we are able to do it.

[@GLITCH_-.-]

Well, I'm in germany and I would still be able to give it back to a local store after 13 days of use, for no good reason or when it's broken. I may have to buy something else from them, but that's fine. I rather buy online though because there's an obvious reason here why everything is cheaper there, yet I'd still be able to get my money back for no reason, while they pay the shipping fee. I guess we're more altruistic than Americans, because I haven't heard of much people abusing that.

[@daveblane6442]

WELL said!

[@GRBtutorials]

Then you were lucky. Right now, the Hakko FX888D here in Spain is at 140 € ($165)! Really expensive in comparison with the US at less than 100 € ($120). Buying the US version and a transformer for 230V to 120V is cheaper than buying the European version! EDIT: Just found it for less than 120 € sold by Amazon itself! Good news for me!

[@thsinger]

I used a Weller TCP 24 for about 30 years it was never broken and still works fine. 3 Years ago I got an ERSA Pico for about 150€ and I like it very small and heat up very quickly but I don’t think it will hold as long as my Weller.

[@TwistTapeTechnology]

I heard you can get greater thermal output from the Weller, by running it off 240volts... ^_^

[@ntag411]

My Weller WE 1010 recently bought, August 2021, made in Mexico earlier this year. I will add in some detail the case of the control unit is not made rugged. The tight fit of the front panel, bottom half and top half gives the unit a solid feel when assembled. Opening involves removal of two screws on the back near the AC power jack and this same area of the top cover must be pulled/pried away from the unit for the internal hooks to release. Top cover at the rear will only move upward because of tabs of the top cover have vertical posts/pins that interface the lower half case. Once the rear of the top cover is lifted the top cover will release from the bottom half. The two screws of above are self tapping type that go directly into the plastic case using no metal clip for the screws to thread into. Slightly beveling the two tabs at the lower front of the top half case, one on each side, will make assembly substantially easier.

[@thefeet]

In the words of a very wise old man I knew once: "If it ain't broke don't fix it". Why open your weller unless you were about to attempt to fix it with your Hakko? LOL... All jokes aside... I totally went with the Weller... it was a no-brainer for me... but that's just ME. German engineering shouldn't be underestimated. I love it! In this price range? It was a personal decision. Two very good products and an excellent comparison was shown here!

[@ntag411]

@@thefeet Weller was the norm in the distant past in manufacturing here in the US. Back then it was pricey and did not own a Weller. I used a unregulated Ungar, built my entire Heathkit lab setup and many On TV decoders. That Ungar I still have today but the tip is stuck to the element. The Weller will most likely not last as long as that Ungar but it gives decent life with a number of heating element changes and tips. IMO, the higher performance, faster heating, will translate to shorter life.

[@Audio_Simon]

Would love to see review of Ersa Icon Pico or Nano. The thing that stops be buying Hakko or Weller is the chunky soldering iron itself. I want something more delicate and pen like. I have a range of Antex fixed temp irons.

[@tookitogo]

Simon Ashton The “i-tool” irons for the icon stations are great. I have the nano. Wonderfully short distance from grip to tip, and the heating performance wipes the floor with the irons in this video.

[@JerryWalker001]

You only need presets in the hakko because of the dreadful interface. The Hakko is really 'wider' than the weller because you need to leave space for access to the switch. The step change test was invalid because you started the hakko when you pressed the key but the weller did not start until you finished setting the temp. The weller shows actual tip temp but the hakko shows internal tip temp. An interesting video but the tests were a bit ambiguous.

[@EEVblog]

No, the Weller start going up the instant you press the button, it's only the display that lags.

[@mikeypotts4732]

Just got the Hako, but if there was perfection this would be it. Literally everything about it down to the rubber used for cording is perfect. Hopefully it lasts for many years.

[@SeanBZA]

Hakko also has that software that hides the actual tip temperature till it is far enough away from the set point, then follows the actual temp, but in the interim it simply displays set point only. Weller does follow actual temp in real time. Weller will benefit with some Copaslip on the tip to improve thermal transfer, plus the tips will not seize with long term use.

[@EEVblog]

The Weller actually seems to do the same thing.

[@sam-douglas]

exactly the comparison i was looking for. thanks!

[@NorthernKitty]

@20:06 - "Terrible, Muriel".... LOL... I LOVE that movie!! I just love how you punctuate your points.

[@scotshabalam2432]

I love my Hakko 888D but I have to admit the Weller does feel better to work with having up and down buttons to change temp. Hakko has a rather nutty idea with how you set the temperature on the 888D

[@briancoverstone4042]

The Hakko brass wire thingy is amazing. You don't even have to wipe the tip on it to clean it, just pop it straight in and back out, and it looks perfect. I've heard Hakko coats the brass with some kind of flux.

[@sikkepossu]

Where do you need adjustable temperature feature? I've been soldering about 30 years and never had an temp controlled soldering iron. Most of that time I've been using Weller WCTP-S iron with self made power supply for it. No problems what so ever. :)

[@lesdmess845]

I spent two weeks in NASA standard soldering school back in the 70's and I think this is highly entertaining specially just for a soldering station comparison! In the end there are only two pertinent requirements - speed to temp and temperature stability, and both seem capable and comparable. I suppose that's where all the other frills for consideration for the money come into play that you covered very well.

[@Eyem1337]

Watched the entire thing, just ordered the FX888D Good video.

[@stclairstclair]

Eyem1337, After I Bought mine, I then found videos- "real vs fake hakko 888d" I was so happy when I knew mine was genuine, so look for knock offs, and Spend the extra money when you buy the other size tips, Tests show non hakko tips gave poor performance, I'm an old mechanic and this thing changed my soldering life I LOVE it.

[@captainscottlum2371]

@@stclairstclair ditto!

[@stclairstclair]

@@captainscottlum2371 Soldering with this unit is like driving a formula 1 car next to Toyota's.

[@philipp594]

I really like the weller spring thingie. It holds the iron well and there is no way to burn yourself.

[@gradeahonky]

Well, I bought a hakku partially based on this video. I tripped over the cord and pulled it off my table and crashing into the ground. The this host was right - it's solid as hell and still works like a charm

[@hrtlsbstrd]

I wonder if the temperature sensor is closer to the tip in the weller - being closer to the tip would cause the readings to cool down 'further' and heat up 'slower', while maybe the actual temperatures between the Hakko and the Weller are the same. It would be great to get external readings on both for these tests

[@electronicsNmore]

Great review/comparison

[@roseelectronics4582]

What's your favourite soldering station?

[@finallyjoined]

I bought an FX888D a couple of months ago, at Microcenter. It was priced at $99 on the shelf, but it rang up for $68. I asked if that was correct, and they told me yes. If you're looking to buy and FX888D, and you happen to live near a Microcenter, you really ought to check it out. I can't imagine that you will get a better soldering station for $68.

[@laptop006]

We have one of the 888D's at work, if you simply use the presets at 50c increments that largely gets around the horrible UI. I'm happy with my original 888, much easier UI, and if I need to replace it I'll probably get one of the JBC irons, I've used them and they're great.

[@EEVblog]

Yep. I'd probably set 25C increments.

[@Astaldoath]

id prefer a non digital temp control and just a digital display for temp like the knobs, set it whatever display tells ur the real current temp thats all you need, next they will be wireless and connecting your soldering station to the internet

[@geoffreykeane4072]

I know this is an old review, but I have had the WE1010 for a couple of years now and have some info. Some gripes. 1. The display is NOT backlit even though the online pictures from Weller show it to be; 2. How bloody hard would it have been to put a RED LED on the damn unit. I have left this iron on overnight or longer on multiple occasions. Unless you happen to glance at the correct angle onto the NON BACKLIT LCD display it is very very easy to forget that unit is on; 3. The soldering pencil is poorly made and is already loose where the metal iron tube meets the plastic handle. 4. I double sided taped the pencil holder onto the top of the unit to reduce its footprint. I previously had a Weller WTCP which lasted me 40 years! I can't see this one getting to 5 years.

[@danners4302]

11:06 you'll thank me later

[@alvawayfarer6096]

@Joe Lachiana \[T]/

[@learningisglorious]

Don't worry about Hakko connectors. I have 5 888D in my company, plug and un plug everyday for 2 years now. Still working great.

[@BMRStudio]

I’m the biggest Weller fan here :) I have all sorts of system from them. From more than 20 years, they never felt on Me. And no iron or soldering station repair ever! Not even a fuse!

[@EEVblog]

Space Jesus Dogstar - The Hakko 926 is famously reliable. My 30 year old still works fine with the original iron.

[@justinnink2396]

My Hakko took a few dives off my bench and it's working like a champ

[@bruhdabones]

Justin Nink The mark of a true engineer is a lack of coordination!

[@kathyquinlan5922]

I have a Hakko 926 that I won as a prize for work skills industrial electronics regional finals here in Perth (I represented Perth twice and received two 926's ;) The one I still have (my ex business partner has the other) has run like a champ for ~ 26 years, the only thing I have ever replaced are the tips :) Mine has had things hit it, been dropped off stages etc. I now own a 888D which is my go to Iron for general work BUT my 926 has a big chisel tip of the bigger ground plane joints :)

[@BMRStudio]

EEVblog let me see in 2027 :) both are good brand. But I prefer more the industrial looking ugly German Ursula :)

[@believethebible88]

Hi David, because of this video, I just ordered the Hako FX888 through your affiliate link. I only ever used one of the straight-to-mains iron and can't wait to do some serious soldering. Thanks for the vids---keep it up.

[@stephanesonneville]

Who really want a big flashy yellow & blue toy on his bench where just changing the temperature seems as easy as programing a recording on a 80's VCR ?

[@timhip1705]

Damn, thought there was a scratch in my display...

[@ianide2480]

I'm still rockin a Weller EC1002 with a 40w iron. Works really well for all my hobby needs (plus it was given to me, free iz good). Tips are cheap enough as well (same as the ones you are showing here). I've thought about upgrading several times over the past few years, but this thing keeps working so I'll keep using it.

[@mikedrz]

When you reset the Hakko U is for USA in degrees F. A is for Asia, and would give you degrees C

[@EEVblog]

Ah, makes sense, thanks.

[@mikedrz]

No Problem, I think we found the same online source where the guy says "u is to reset". I had to do some further digging. lol

[@robertheal5137]

I don't know any kind of Asian who would think that makes sense.

[@mikedrz]

Robert Heal One is for the Asian Market and the other is for the US market. The rest of the world is of no consequence.

[@andydunnock8114]

Robert Heal - Lol, you're right, it doesn't. I like to see it as U for USA, and A for All Other Countries.

[@MrThebigcheese123]

You should review the Tenma 80w soldering station with Hakko tips. It's a beast, maintains 350c with ease while boiling the water into steam continuously. it is about £90 in the UK. I would rate it over both of these as a starter iron. :D

[@mikkosha]

Had so many Weller soldering stations housing break and burn out that I'm inclined to try out a Hakko now :) It's a bit cheaper than the Weller around here :)

[@bertblankenstein3738]

I'm very happy with my Hakko FX888D. The interface is not so easy to work, but I have just left the temp at 305C. This iron was an upgrade from plug-in pencils where I abused the tips. This station allows me to solder up pinheaders, throughhole, some smd (as long as it isn't too small). I find the Hakko has good temperature control and enough thermal capacity to comfortably solder up sot 263 packages. I can't remember if I tried to220 before. I like the performance, stand, pencil, and availability of tips. The menu, well, if you don't need to use it (much), it is not a problem. Overall, I have absolutely no regrets buying this station.

[@johnjohannesjuan]

4:50 having a fixed power cord prevents you from accidentally pluggin your station into mains with the wrong voltage

[@AV84USA]

I don’t think IEC cords allow this.

[@TassieLorenzo]

I see what you did there! 😂

[@boilerbots]

The Hakko decimal point shows the duty cycle, as the temp dropped during the sponge test it went to 100% duty. I have several Wellers and the DIN connectors have intermittent connection issues and it can go open circuit. I have never had a problem with the Hakko brand and have a dozen at work but we used the next step up that has the thin pencil type handles and the tips you can just pull out, never like those threaded holders.

[@Arnthorg]

how much do the handles heat up? The handles of the ridiculously expensive weller irons at my previous work literally got burning hot very quickly.

[@8bitjunkie8]

Arnþór Gíslason my hakko doesn’t get hot at all

[@EEVblog]

Not a problem with these.

[@mildyproductive9726]

Leaded, here. I use my 888 at 315 to 335C. To summarize: I can't tell the iron is on/off by the temp of the handle. I can and do use the iron for many hours at a time, and it does not change. My method is to turn it on when I first need it for the day, and it is pretty much left on until I am done for the day other than for tip changes. It is many times that I have picked it up and tried to solder, and after a few seconds of pressing and wondering what gives, I finally realize I haven't turned it on, yet. The thing that finally registers for me is the lack of flux smoke. There's no perception of handle temperature. Chinese 936/888 knockoffs? Hooyah, many of them get hot right quick at the same set temps. I purchased one, recently, and the handle gets hot within 1 minute of turning it on; uncomfortably hot within 5 minutes. One of the clone handles now comes with a feature that automatically throttles down the temperature when the handle heats up to avoid damage. So instead of offering a more expensive handle with better construction and materials, they can continue to sell bottom dollar junk by cheaping out and imposing a duty cycle on the handpiece. 20 minutes of work, manually turn it off and let it have 40 min to cool down. Or simply leave it on and let it reach half your set temp forever after. There IS technology in these "old-fashioned" stations. There's nothing special in the electronics. There are no fancy software algorithms. The technology and experience is in the materials science and engineering and manufacturing methods in the handpiece and heater. I suppose regulations against asbestos are pretty effective, else cheap clones would just load their handpiece plastic with it and be able to compete with the real thing.

[@mildyproductive9726]

@Ampor Gislason: update: having just experienced this issue, I have to append my previous statement. It depends on what you are soldering! If your duty cycle is very high and your joints are sinking a lot of heat, the 888 handle can get uncomfortably hot. If you are doing continuous production work with large joints, the 888 is not the best at this, regarding handle temp!

[@Arnthorg]

very interesting, thank you

[@randycarter2001]

A tip I learned from my work. Use only distilled water for your sponge. The minerals in tap/bottled water can contaminate your solder joint. Important when peoples lives depend on your soldering.

[@migsvensurfing6310]

randycarter2001 I learned never to use a sponge, it kill the tip fast by corrosion.

[@spyroskokorinos]

what about the Ersa i-Con Pico though?? it's just as cheap and seems to be a bit more powerful and from a really high end brand...

[@felixstoger2800]

napalmspyros Same, I'd also be curious!

[@EEVblog]

Yep, been meaning to get one. It was supposed to be part of this shootout but I was lazy.

[@tookitogo]

EEVblog Get the iCON nano instead. It’s just a few euros more, but is ESD safe, and made in Germany, not China.

[@DirtyRobot]

I always remember starting at a cable infrastructure installer at a data center and seeing a stack of 8 burned out Weller's sitting in a dark corner. Asked the owner if I could have them. Took them home and got all of them running again. Made over $500 reselling them on ebay.

[@CliveChamberlain946]

IMO the starter range is under $20, while these two are at the top end of the getting serious range. Beyond that, with big $$ possibly getting lost on wrecked projects one should choose wisely and Pace said they'd send in their new ADS200 (120w @ $239 USD). That's the review I'll be waiting for..

[@CliveChamberlain946]

Today $10 buys the beginner a 60W Mustool MT223 for his/her 1st year (or until serious). Light duty regulated irons run from $30 to $150 (search YT for "HAKKO T12 Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron Kit"), but they still don't have the guts or the long-life pro tips like JBC, Metcal or Pace.

[@stevenmiller279]

I bought one of these, it's my first soldering station. I absolutely love it.

[@miip]

Can you review the Ersa i-CON PICO?

[@alterratz665]

Ersa soldering stations are the best in my opinion :-)

[@matthew3p]

Great Scott?

[@tookitogo]

Christoph Bubel Just buy the icon nano. You won’t regret it!!

[@gabiold]

+Antonio Tejada They are great! We use several onr for serial production at work for about 5 years now, and are working petfectly. Only two cables failed after few years, but none of the heaters or stations failed so far. A huge step ahead in my opinion, we had continuous problems with Wellers before. Not mentioning the price...

[@EEVblog]

The RDS80 is cheaper at $100 and has presets.

[@MakerofThingss]

Yay! Thanks, Dave! Been wanting to upgrade my soldering station for a while and was waiting for exactly this video! Thanks as always!

[@Ratzfaz]

My Weller is now 50 Years old, and it's working fine ;-)

[@Boffin55]

Mine has to be close (W-TCP-L), Great form factor

[@KM_Mountain]

On the basis of this review, I bought the TS 100. :-D Sometimes the comments on You Tube aren't just filled with trolls and abuse, thanks to the folks who mentioned it! Not got it yet, but seems perfect for me as a hobbyist and also as someone who requires it from time to time professionally in the field. Rossmann's review sealed it for me.

[@royh4305]

Talk about thorough testing! :) It is a true pleasure to watch. Thank you. Btw, I am getting the Hakko.

[@Dustysa4]

I really appreciate the sarcasm laced comedy of your review.

[@manifestgtr]

The Hakko is where it’s at. I’ve had an fx888d on my bench for several years now and the thing has been phenomenal. Granted, I do guitar/tube amp repair so my electronics work tends to be fixing cold and old joints, caps and pots...nothing too heavy duty. But it’s never let me down. As far as an entry level, professional iron goes, I wouldn’t recommend anything else. I’ll upgrade to a 951 eventually but there are various woodworking concerns to tend to in the meantime...

[@grandamdan99]

@EEVblog Have you ever tried using a square of "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" for cleaning a soldering iron tip? Works pretty good, as long as your iron isnt too hot.

[@TheAmmoniacal]

You should review some Ersa soldering gear!

[@TheAmmoniacal]

LabCat Weller is the worst.

[@TheAmmoniacal]

LabCat My experience with their gear has been negative in all cases.

[@TheAmmoniacal]

LabCat you must be lucky.

[@MetalheadAndNerd]

LabCat Did you watch the video?

[@MrRecorder1]

LabCat I would like to see a comparison between ERSA and Weller or Hakko as well. I have an ERSA soldering station and am very happy with it, but I also do not know how it compares to the other brands.

[@michaelmbutler]

Dave -- Did you post a link to the the Hakko thermal response curves doc? Don't seem to see it above.

[@ecsciguy79]

12:52 - Ohhhh, look at that sponge! Well, that seals the deal. Weller it is!

[@EEVblog]

You'd better go take a cold shower

[@philiphoeffer7442]

I'll keep my FX-951. Though I had a wesd Weller from the 70's until last year when I decided to try surface mounted stuff & decided to relegate the weller to backup duty.

[@fbonacic]

eevblog use thermal imager to see temperature distribution over tips. Which one gives better distribution?

[@superdau]

A thermal imager doesn't work on shiny metal.

[@TobyCowles]

superdau then put kapton tape on it

[@fbonacic]

It does work, but emissivity should be set to ~0,3 and attention to reflected temperature. It's tricky and less accurate but works.

[@quantumbubbles2106]

+fbonacic - what's the point of doing that? Dave's thermal capacity test (with the wet sponge) was actually much more informative as it directly relates to a characteristic relevant when doing actual solder work.

[@fbonacic]

Not A Name it's just a suggestion for another comparative measurement. Relax...

[@nathanschenk8886]

Regarding the sponge test, the Weller heater is on the outside, where the Hakko is on the inside. I suspect that the thermal path from the heater to the sponge is much lower resistance on the Weller, which is why the temperature drops more. The ground plane soldering performance is a much more fair comparison since the thermal path between the heater and the tip is more important when actually using the iron.

[@peterwoo2489]

You should revoew the TS100 soldering iron!

[@Ender_Wiggin]

agree my fave

[@eone199]

TS100 is for kids, not pros

[@ZylonFPV]

Dave, can you repeat this test using a thermal imaging camera? It will allow us to really see the temperatures drop and heat up again. I think both irons are measuring the temperatures differently.

[@jokue2002]

Your 350 to 450 transition test wasn't really fair. The Hakko was already heating up as you were still setting the Weller.

[@andicus1]

Agreed. Since it takes longer to set the Weller, he should've set it first. It also takes about 4 seconds until it times out and confirm you want to change the temperature. Then it starts heating.

[@comettoPL]

It is rather irrelevant - when you are losing your time for confirmation or for actual heating.

[@HaiVanTran79]

I use the Hakko Fx100 soldering station everyday at work. The Fx100 costs about $500. The soldering gun on the Fx100 is light and the tip is short. I have more stability and control on the soldering gun. I recently bought the Hakko Fx888D and I dont' like the soldering iron very much. The soldering iron is bigger and the tip is longer. I have less stability and control on the soldering iron.

[@natecontarino1748]

I can play with the knob on my WES51 all day.

[@fartrellcluggins930]

They stopped selling em it looks like! I want that iron!

[@rodrigomaero]

Like Louis says, having the heating element and sensor separate from the tip makes the control way less accurate, takes more time to respond to heat fluctuations. I've been working on iphone board repair for a year almost with a knockoff 888 iron, but tip technology is about on par with these two. Can't wait for my 951 to arrive

[@kathyquinlan5922]

Dave loves his Soldering Irons ribbed for his pleasure ;)

[@MrTompkins]

I'm going to buy the one "built like a brick dunny". Thanks for the review!

[@mikesradiorepair]

Neither have a level top but at least the Weller is flat so you could stack something on top of it. Not going to put anything on top of the Hakko.

[@jort93z]

I think they don't want you to stack stuff on top. At least the weller one also says in the manual to leave some breathing space at the back. I would think that they also want you to give the device some breathing room at the top. They might have done that on purpose so people are not tempted to stack stuff on top.

[@companymen42]

Unless you really want to start a fire, I wouldn't stack anything on your Iron.

[@jort93z]

Well, not on the iron iteself of course. but people would stack stuff on the soldering station.

[@jort93z]

These companies usually just want to make sure nothing happens. its probably only a problem if its completly surrounded by other stuff and you leave it on for hours at a time.

[@daveblane6442]

GOOD point!

[@sparcnut]

I've had my FX888D since 2014 and have used it to build, hack, and scavenge hundreds of non-trivial boards by now. It's never skipped a beat. I'm still on the original heating element, and I think all of my genuine Hakko tips are still in good shape too. Note: There is a HUGE difference between generic Chinesium Hakko-clone tips and genuine Hakko tips. In particular, the latter have far better thermal mass. Don't bother with anything other than genuine Hakko tips for soldering. I'll still use a Chinesium tip on my Hakko on occasion - but only for welding plastic, removing epoxy, or installing heat-set inserts...