EICO 1030 Regulated Vacuum Tube Power Supply Restoration And Test - Part 2

[@Tony770jr]

Hi Erik, I think this is the first time I've viewed your videos. Nice restoration. I especially like the tube demo at the end, so more like that would be great.

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Thanks for the nice comments, glad you enjoyed the video.

[@myradiovideos]

Erik, thanks for the 2 part video. Just acquired a EICO 1030 about a month ago. Also followed your advice to bring it up slowly on my Sencore Isolation variac. It appears to be working fine like yours. Surprisingly the meters do match my Fluke volt meter.. A well engineered device. Ordered the replacement capacitors and they should arrive next week, so I will watch how you do your installation to get acquainted with the process. The EICO will replace my Heathkit IP-32 supply that is very similar in design, but the EICO is much better from what I can tell, and more flexible.. Again, thanks for the video,,, Robert WA6PHN, San Diego

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Robert, thanks for the kind words about my video. I am glad to know it was helpful for you. I agree, the EICO 1030 is very well built. Yes quite similar to the Heathkit model and I agree the EICO is the better model. Have fun and enjoy your restoration project.

[@myradiovideos]

@@EriksElectronicsWorkbench The Heathkit will only put out one 6.3 volt AC output, but the Eico has 2 6.3 volt outputs that can be strapped together for 12.6 volt tubes, so an important point that distinguishes the 2 units...

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

@@myradiovideos also as I recall (correct if I am wrong) the Heathkit had solid state rectifiers. The EICO is vacuum tube rectifiers. I prefer the the vacuum tube rectifier because the B+ comes up more slowly.

[@myradiovideos]

@@EriksElectronicsWorkbench yes you are correct plus the HEATHKIT Does Not have bleeder resistors across the 2 capacitors! Some folks like to convert tube to solid state but I prefer the tube as they are very robust and Glow!! 👍👍

[@arenaengineering8070]

Thanks for the video!

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

You're most welcome, glad to know you liked the video.

[@gigi5236]

Hi Mr. Erik Very nice review. I have appreciated the test you did with the 6AS7 tube. Most youtuber I saw on this type of power supply did not test it with a tube. Very instructive! I have some questions about this H.V. power supply. 1) The power is a 2 prong extension cord. What is the utility of the ground binding post? 2) What about the security if by any bad luck, the 120 Vac hot wire is touching the chassis? 3) If by any mistake, somebody is touching only one lead at 400 Vdc, will he be hurt? Because the DC output is floating, we should feel nothing right. But 400 Vdc seems a lot? I will be more than interested if you could do other demonstration with vacuum tube as you mentionned at the end of your second video. Keep up the good work!

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Hi, I'm glad you found the video informative. Thanks for the compliment. The ground binding post is provided for a convenient way to attach to the chassis. The ground binding post could be connected to a main earth ground. As you noted the mains cord is only 2 wires so an earth ground is not automatically created. Your point is valid about the chassis becoming hot if a mains fault occurs. Grounding the chassis could help in this situation and also powering the unit from an isolation transformer would provide added safety. The DC output is floating but there is the possibility of leakage current in a transformer, capacitor, etc and that could still be enough to provide a current path for a nasty if not lethal shock when dealing with the higher DC voltages. I would definitely not want come in contact with the high voltage DC. Always be safe and use caution with these power supplies.

[@GeorgeHamilton-pt2fh]

Which of those is C3 in your (anyone's)

[@GeorgeHamilton-pt2fh]

Useful video. Might explain current is measured in series voltage in parallel when you go the 'leads' explanations.. Wise about pulling the tubes....sometimes they twist and break the spigot....repairable with superglue but still a nuisance.. Make sure the electro's are discharged before checking with multimeter....and I can't abide digital meters for general work too 'fidgety..I prefer analogue. ' As the demonstration progresses..if not viewer really experienced there's a risk with exposed B+ levels on terminals whether bias of other... The demonstrator takes risks around terminals and resistors which will be greater than for you... A couple of the resistors were too far out in my unit .also the 1K shows signs of overheating even though reading 1K on meter. Unfortunately my set (yours too?) was built with component wires curled around tags than all later soldered....damned nuisance when replacing components...if doing 'properly' and not cutting the leads and soldering new component to old leads. ...we don't all have solder suckers...If one goes that way wind the new component leads into a spring-like appearance doe a few mm (or say about 3/16th inch) as a close diameter fit to the cut lead. Slide over and solder .It's neat and secure. I think I'll use a voltage limiting cct independently...This is the second supply which has blown an electro with runaway voltage....the other was a BWD...with expensive pots....one of which blew also. The BWD is more complex than this unit and uses early model IC's. BTW you talk about ';soddering' in English the word is solder...with an "L" not 'sodder 'as in French. Pronunciation is soul-der. I wonder why Americans pronounce it as 'sodd'...('off with the pixies' distraction!!) Ok on th 470K resistors and equal value...but they are +/- 10%. The designer took that into account...I like perfection too but one can get 'neuro'...and the values will change again over time and maybe not change equally. Did you adjust the calibration pots?.to show how it should work?