Aligning Shaft and Gluing in Bearing Blocks - Emerald Isle: Ep.65 Fishing Boat Refit

Рет қаралды 12,068

EIS Alaska

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 39

@lesliefisk1269 Жыл бұрын

Dad has mad skills he's using to teach his son's and everyone who watches this channel respect

@airecraft1 Жыл бұрын

I know I’m not alone in the excitement of the maiden fishing voyage. Don’t forget to break a champagne bottle on the bow

@chriskulpa1057 Жыл бұрын

So exciting to see the shaft and bearing blocks getting into place. Won't be long before that shaft valley is buttoned up.

@pqtpat7734 Жыл бұрын

Thnx for showing build, maintenance, and fishing. Reality

@anglertales Жыл бұрын

Being a retired machinist, it's great to see the details you're sharing. I am very much enjoying this.

@EISAlaska Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much! I'm sure we went about it in a backward manner, but we eventually got it done. Pretty confident in the results and a great learning experience for us.

@lukechapman3701 Жыл бұрын

Great valentine's video for the old girl!

@ronald8ish Жыл бұрын

I swear yall have done this before, well done EIS moving right along

@ravennelson827 Жыл бұрын

Ship wrights you be gentlemen ... Blessings

@richardsaylor8178 Жыл бұрын

s beautiful

@GoldVP... Жыл бұрын

Oh boy I'm late!! Let's get this show on...I'll be back at the end! Cheers 🍻 What an arduous task hey? Glad to see this nearing a sailing point. Looking forward to the floats soon 🍻🇨🇦🍻

@akfisher508 Жыл бұрын

There are so many things that go into couplings, reducers, alignments, etc. There are so many laser alignment systems out now that people have largely forgotten how to do the old-school methods. One of the reasons that laser alignment didn't work for me in cooling towers was that the beam would distort in the steam from adjacent cells. When people got used to using the V-clamps and back plunge indicators it was much quicker in the end. A shaft not only sags, it will take a permanent bend if only supported on the ends. I would encourage you to take that boat out often! so the shaft doesn't take a permanent sag! On removing a coupling using heat, use a porta-power and jack with a strong-back. Apply just enough pressure to hold the contraption in place (often a 3 or 4 hand job), then heat the coupling over the keyway. After the coupling is hot apply the hydraulic pressure. You will avoid galling the shaft in this manner. If you apply heavy hydraulic pressure prematurely you will pull metal in both the coupling and shaft when it starts to move. Really makes a mess. I avoid any kind of anti-seize when installing a coupling, especially one that is heated for an interference fit. It tends to pile up in front of the coupling as it goes on, like fish scales. Having a coupling on halfway or 2/3 of the way when it seizes it a bummer. I use a light machine oil instead. I also like to set a telescoping gage a couple thousandths over the shaft diameter before beginning the heating process and check the coupling ID prior to starting it on to the shaft, just to make sure it is warm enough. Finally, be sure the key and keyway are deep enough. A few thousandths extra depth on a keyway won't hurt anything and may avert a catastrophe. Try to avoid any extra clearance on the sides of the keystock and keyway. The clearance there can be problematic. When I mentioned avoiding anti-seize on the shaft, I always use anti-seize on stainless fasteners. I have gotten bitten too many times when in a hurry and skipping that step. I watch every episode and look forward to the next ones. I wish I could get into some Tanner crabs like the ones you had on the last 2 episodes. I have a freezer full of rockfish and lingcod right now. Yellow-eye is my favorite. We are having salmon bellies for lunch today, in fact! The bellies, people throw them away and it is the absolute best part! Thanks for all your work. BTW, I began my machine shop apprenticeship in June of 1970 and have been in a machine shop ever since. I even built a shop on to my house so I could stay in the trade after my retirement 5 years ago. I absolutely love the work!

@goodcitizen64 Жыл бұрын

I am learning a lot from this project series! I love how well yall work together!

@ThoughtfulWander Жыл бұрын

Great episode! Keep rolling more progress EIS team! 👍👍

@Kiwi_Fruit_Fruit Жыл бұрын

i found when im doing work that needs coms i use my phone.put it on speaker,it works a charm

@debbiesue4287 Жыл бұрын

You know in another setting One could definitely think of a few R rated jokes to go with this one especially because. It's Valentine's ;) Great job guys!!

@cindydenton2681 Жыл бұрын

Awesome team work guys! She’s looking great!

@johnpierce1251 Жыл бұрын

That’s lookin real good can’t wait to see it completed stay safe my friends

@townbeach3603 Жыл бұрын

Great job glassing shaft chase

@TULUSRECORD Жыл бұрын

Good

@kimberlyshalaby1134 Жыл бұрын

I guess you'll be glad to get this shaft project done? It looks really nice.

@EISAlaska Жыл бұрын

That's for sure. Really happy with how it turned out, but don't miss the tight quarters and limited working space.

@townbeach3603 Жыл бұрын

Alot of work ,great job!!!

@robinengland5799 Жыл бұрын

enjoyed the video a lot!!! Y'all are making amazing progress!

@haykellehiba1027 Жыл бұрын

Merci beaucoup 👍👍👍💕💕💕

@lyn2839 Жыл бұрын

Looking good guy's.

@townbeach3603 Жыл бұрын

New boat after shaft you can really dial in

@akfisher508 Жыл бұрын

When you have a coupling that is registered like you have done with the ring, you are precluded from indicating the O.D. of the coupling halves, as you are aware. What I do on long shafts, like cooling tower drive shafts, is indicate from one coupling half to that back of the adjacent coupling. Use a V-block with a piece of wire or bicycle chain to attach around one coupling and reach over the coupling flange of the adjoining coupling and read to the back of the coupling with a plunge-back indicator. You then align one side to the back of the coupling; in your case moving the engine to align to the back of the coupling, or, going from the other coupling half, moving the cutlass bearing to align the other coupling half. Or, as may be more applicable, moving your pillow block. It tends to be a Rubik's cube but comes together nicely, eventually. I don't particularly like feeler gages. There is a lot of 'feel' involved. One person to another can be deceiving. It is like looking at the thimble of a micrometer while taking a measurement and making it read what you want to make it read. Better to look away while making the measurement, then look at the numbers afterward. It is easy to cheat yourself. If there was a way to send a picture of a drawing I would do so. There may be an explanation of what I am trying to say somewhere online if you look up shim-pack coupling alignment.

@EISAlaska Жыл бұрын

@akfisher508 Thanks for the great explanation. I had a hard time finding information on how to align a shaft properly, and like so many things it's how you phrase the question. After reading your explanation, I watched a video using a Starrett shaft alignment clamp and it makes complete sense now. It is amazing how much a 2.5" shaft will sag even over the course of an 8' span. After we mounted the prop, it threw off the alingment and we had to adjust everything again, eventually getting the gap on the couplings between 1 and 2 1/2 thou. It was a slow and cumbersome process using feeler gauges and I wish I had this info during the process. Looking back, we would definitly do things differently and may revisit this for peace of mind. Thanks again for taking the time to comment on this. I learned a few things from your post (I always look at the caliper readout, but will not anymore) and I am grateful for the knowledge. Best to you and family!