Electrical Issues - How to Troubleshoot a Ford Model A

[@reetzfordrepair]

3:56 just a clarification: Model A's are a positive ground/frame positive ground car, so use the red (positive) lead on a head bolt.

[@zackwiz]

If you guys would make a video on how to do timing that would be great. You guys are very good at explaining things and understandable. Thank you for the videos!

[@THEFLATSPOT]

I run a Flathead Ford group called The Flat-Spot and we just added your video to our website to share with our members. Please contact me and let me know your companies info and I will get you added to our business directory. We have over 36K members world wide and I would love to make sure we give you the proper credit. Thanks you for a wonderful video.

[@scottjackson1194]

Very helpful to Newbies and Oldies alike. Thanks for posting this video.

[@reetzfordrepair]

Scott Jackson glad to hear it, thanks for stopping by

[@tonycahill970]

What a great video...! Got me out of a jamb very easily and quickly... First I had no spark in distributor and discovered corrosion on the ignition wire at the distributor... Betsy is purring once again...! Thank You

[@davidpringle8089]

You explain things very nicely and easy to understand. Thank you!

[@goesfastandfar]

This video was very helpful and informative. He explained everything so well. I like videos that show all the places to look for problems. How about a video showing a total distributor rebuild/service and how to set the timing on the Model A ?

[@reetzfordrepair]

That’s a great idea. Next time we’re all in the same town maybe we’ll make that video. So glad you found the video helpful.

[@mafcawebmaster4237]

Nice job explaining what to look for when doing a rebuild or troubleshooting

[@michaeleisenbise4278]

Incredibly nice video. Have posted links to this video on several National Model A Club sites and Model A social media sites. Bet you see the number of views shoot up and bet they are all most positive. Well done. Like the interaction between the two individuals in the video.

[@reetzfordrepair]

Michael Eisenbise thanks for the kind words Michael, and we really appreciate you sharing the video. Cheers.

[@michaeleisenbise4278]

@@reetzfordrepair have you noticed how much your number of views has jumped up in the last couple of hours? Scott Jackson commented below. He sent me a PM telling me how grateful he was for sharing the link to this video with him. Great work. Will show it at our next Model A meeting.

[@fredjensen1683]

I did the continuity test on my distrubuter and it has contuniity with the points open and points closed? what does that mean?

[@rodreetz5785]

This means that the wire from the bottom plate to the points is shorted to the side of the distributor body, or the moveable arm of the points is someplace to the body of the distributor.

[@desertlifestylegroup]

Super helpful to a newbie. Thanks.

[@Library_of_Lunacy]

Thank you so much for such an informative video! Looking forward to more Model A wisdom! Having to relearn some basic things as I grew up on 50s Chevrolet so never dealt with positive ground system. Love the A a d so glad I have one. Still trying to get mine running and road worthy.

[@reetzfordrepair]

Good luck with your Model A, Lothos, and thanks for stopping by. Let us know if you have suggestions for videos that might help you out.

[@christopherzhang7787]

I recently having issue with my 1930, when I turn the ignition on, give little hand throttle and choke , clutch in with starter pushed , only hear two or three thump noise and it won't start, battery is measured 6.6 V , I may get lucky out of 30 tries to get the car started but it usually fail to start . Any idea what went wrong ? Starter motor issue ? It is bolted quite rigidly no loose part

[@chrisriedener865]

Very good video. It would help to know how to test the condenser and coil so that I know which one to replace.

[@abn_guard_bum7439]

Could you guys make a video on how to wire my dashboard together? I'm having trouble understanding how to wire my ignition switch.

[@Rottingboards]

Thanks so much, you explained it very well.

[@lozanospain1]

Very Helpful video and nice explanation... it would be nice if more content was uploaded to the channel.. Greetings from a '28 model who lives in Palma de Mallorca (Spain)😎👍. Long time ago...

[@reetzfordrepair]

Welcome to the channel, thanks for stopping by! Hope this helps keep your 28 cruising around Palma de Mallorca.

[@56silvershine]

Can a bad ammeter cause you to not have power to the coil/points?

[@JWilliams81]

Thanks for taking the time to make the video.

[@reetzfordrepair]

JWilliams81 you’re very welcome, hope it was helpful!

[@ricardopathe3925]

good night , i have a ford , year 29 i live in Campinas SP Brazil i have a problem , water passed into the engine through the inlet valve of the fourth cylinder , the gasket is not burnt , i can not know how this water passed i have already removed the valve and i didn't see any cracks, can you give me any tips

[@larryjacobson8043]

My problem was a defective plate under the distributor. Erratic spark was due to the plate not stay centered due to wear. and a weak coil. Now starts up with 1/2 turn cranking.

[@reetzfordrepair]

Larry Jacobson glad you got it sorted out!

[@robdoe2420]

Great video Mr. Reetz, I learned a bunch here, but at 5:35 min you said "the coil discharges and dumps all that current through the condenser to the spark plugs. Isn't the condenser in the point circuit to prevent arcing? Am I confused?

[@reetzfordrepair]

You are correct. In the video it was stated a bit confusingly. The condenser is there to make a clean break in the circuit, keeping the points from arcing as they interrupt the circuit. Thanks for clarifying that comment.

[@craigedmonds1437]

Thank you for the video. Great job!

[@mikeprokop8947]

Wow great video!!!!!!! Very kind

[@jimmccoskey8253]

Thanks for a concise, informative video. All information and no fluff...nice.

[@miltonmacedo9885]

Só não mostrou como é fácil achar o ponto do primeiro cilindro , invertendo o parafuso que esta na polia do motor , invertendo-o , até encontrar o rebaixo na parte interna .

[@Chuckles23]

Short story turned headlights on while driving and vehicle died won't start !! What does that sound like.

[@menotyou9406]

Thank you. I inherited a 31 am having a difficult time with it. Ive done a valve job wit new valves springs and guides, replaced the coil, and rebuilt the distributor. Idles fine and runs fine in 1st and 2nd but no power in 3rd. Suspect a valve is hanging up. Ive ruled out most of my electrical issues thinking of pulling the head after checking compression but how hard is it tor replace the lifters and tapetts? Short of pulling the motor out I don’t see haw to get to them. Thank you Russ

[@reetzfordrepair]

Hey Russ, you can change the tappets with the engine in the car, but it is a lot easier with the engine on a stand. With it in the car, you would need to remove the manifolds, and valve cover, distributor and head. Using a spring compressor, remove the valves, keepers, springs and guides. Then pull the oil pan. The oil pump will fall out now. The oil pump/distributor and retaining spring can also be removed. Next remove the bolts on the motor mounts that go into the flywheel housing. Now you can jack up the front of the engine and remove the cover from the timing gear and the small side cover. Now pull the lifters up and clamp them with soft clamps to hold them while you remove the camshaft. the lifters can now be dropped out through the oil pan area. Assembly is reverse. After reading this you will see that it is easier to pull the engine and work from a stand. Good luck out there, hope this leads you in the right direction.

[@menotyou9406]

Reetz Ford Repair Thank you so here is where I am at; I am waiting for an adaptor for my compression tester., I will check compression if it is good i think the lifters/tappets are good. I don’t have the space or a stand. I have eliminated the electrical when I replace the coil and rebuilt the distributor and new plugs. I checked for a leak on the intake by spraying starter fluid on the manifold and after a 1/3 of a can the engine sputtered and coughed a bit (thinking it got sucked up in the intake) ordered the parts to rebuild the zenith and will replace the float valve with a modern one lord only knows what’s in that carb. If that doesn’t do the trick I will be left with decking the manifolds or replacing them. Hopefully that will do the trick. I love the car it is a blast to drive.

[@robdoe2420]

@@menotyou9406 56 years ago, I got a 31 coupe and began tinkering and learning. Had the Ford repair manual and no guidance to help. I was putting the steering column back into the car and as I remember it, I got the steering column case out of position. this caused the range of timing to be off when it was adjusted from inside the car. I drove the car in the night, and when I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing orange!

[@vernontorrence4407]

Runs goid in first and second but no power in direct drive. Have you checked to see if you have the correct polarity on the coil? Wrong polarity can cause rhis same problem. Positive ground can fool anyone installing a new coil.

[@CatalystNetwork]

You said it was about 6volts. For the spark? Isn’t it a lot more? Or is that only when the coil is running / car running or starter is turning it over?

[@reetzfordrepair]

Unless the points are closed, you should have about 6v on both sides of the coil (and on both of the terminal box connections). When the points close, it goes down 0v on the distributor side because the primary is then shorting to ground. The secondary part of the coil has 1000's of volts. Hope that helps!

[@bullshipcharters]

my 31 has a good battery and a good starter when i turn on the key the voltmeter goes down a bit but when i hit the starter on the floor the voltmeter doesnt move and its silence. all i hear is the copper making contact with coper above the starter. could that be the coil? im pulling my hair out. very frustrated. i wanna get this a on the road.

[@reetzfordrepair]

If you don’t have spark at the points, check to see that if you connect the points with just like a screwdriver between ground and the moveable point (with key on! be careful!) then it’s probably just corrosion on the points. A little sandpaper should take care of that. If you don’t have any spark there at all, go back and check that you have 6v on both sides of the coil. Again, make sure the key is on. If you don’t have voltage there, it’s likely a wiring issue between the starter and the terminal box. Another issue could be the key switch shorting to the outside conduit. If that’s shorted, it’d keep you from getting spark. But then you also wouldn’t have spark at the points. Let us know how it goes, good luck.

[@jimervin1637]

I have possible grounding issue on my Model A. I recently replaced the battery when it wouldn't turn the starter after sitting for maybe a month. But it was four and a half years old, so I replaced it. Then, with the new battery, it started the car once and the next time I tried it, nothing. The horn wouldn't honk and the starter wouldn't make a sound. So I took the battery back to the shop. They said it was still fully charged but I replaced it anyhow. With the next battery, it was the same thing except it didn't even start once. Again, the horn didn't work either. But the lights did work. I thought I had a spade type fuse behind the firewall but didn't find it. I do have another fuse but it's just for the cowl lights I believe. Should I get a voltmeter to try and see where I'm loosing power?

[@reetzfordrepair]

A volt meter would tell you a lot. Often the ground (remember, it’s a positive ground system) connection to the frame is not good enough. I have even had a failure inside the battery cables where the ends attach. With the starter not turning over, the problem has to be very near to the battery since the only connection to the starter is from chassis ground on one side, and the starter switch on the other side of the battery. The key doesn't even have to be on. Good luck!

[@jimervin1637]

Thanks. There's got to be a bad connection in there someplace because the horn has honked a few times when I increase the amperage of the battery charger from 2 amps, trickle charge to 15 amps but then it stops working again. Such frustration.

[@jimervin1637]

I found that mechanical problems are such a "hands on" kind of problem, nobody could correctly diagnose mine. You're only guessing unless you're right there with the car. So I made one more attempt at it and found the source of the problem. The two small bolts which hold the clamp which clamps the negative battery cable to the battery terminal had backed off a bit. Retighten them and I was back in business. The horn honked, the starter turned over and the car started. So check your battery terminal clamp bolts as well as doing all the other little jobs to make sure you have a good ground if you step on the starter and don't get a sound.

[@reetzfordrepair]

@@jimervin1637 Glad you got it sorted, Jim. Always good to hear another Model A is back in business.

[@humberrodriguez3240]

All this is fine but you must start with making sure you have a good battery, one with all three cells working. Then make sure you have good grounds, like from the taillight housing to the rear fender and from there to the chassis; from the positive grounding trap (engine or transmission end) to the chassis; and specially make sure you have good ground contact at every place the engine oil pans touches the engine and the chassis. Finally, after all that, check you’re putting the right amount of voltage at the generator’s cut-out output.

[@fire1035]

Hey guys, out driving my ‘30 coupe today and she died. Found that the safety fuse had popped. New fuse, same thing as soon as I put it in. Unhooked the headlight harness and the harness from the base of the column. New fuse, she started and ran for a few seconds, popped the fuse. Checked the amp meter when I put the key in and pressed the starter button and found no movement. I looked at my points, admittedly, the first time and have no idea what I’m looking at. They have some rust and corrosion on them. Could this be the culprit or do I need to start looking elsewhere in the system? I’d sure love for it to be as simple as just needing a points adjustment.

[@reetzfordrepair]

Thinking it’s probably not the points. Try to isolate the problem by doing this: Disconnect the wire on the cutout and tape on a hot wire. This should eliminate all but dash, coil, distributor and interconnecting wires. Could be a short in the terminal box or the fuse holder itself. Ammeter should show discharge before fuse blows. Good luck, hope that helps.

[@fire1035]

Reetz Ford Repair thanks for the reply! We think it might be the wiring behind the instrument panel. Had planned to go check that while the kiddo was at Cross Country practice yesterday but storms rolled in so I had to divert. Going to go check it tomorrow. Thanks again for the thoughts.

[@vernontorrence4407]

I have seen new points ground themselves out by cheap manufacturing that uses a plastic insulation block on the point spring. The spring wears through the thin block and grounds out. I did a quick fix on a car during a trip once by using cardstock to separate the spring from the mounting post.

[@reetzfordrepair]

What tutorial video should we make next? What would be helpful or interesting for you?

[@StrangeDuder]

How to set the timing on Model A

[@fredkaminski6138]

Reetz Ford Repair how about replacing the windshield glass? I have a 30 Victoria,and I need new glass. I would like to see how the frame/glass is removed and how the new glass is installed.

[@jeremiahdarling8444]

How to rebuild a distributor would be amazing I’m 20 years old and don’t know to much about these old beauties but I want to learn everything about them just picked up my first modal A

[@Quillmgs14]

Thank you!

[@reetzfordrepair]

You're welcome!

[@charlesobike6774]

Ligjts on dash board but can't start

[@manas04atkole99]

Antik vehicles converted to electric motor vehicle natural environment friendly vehicle long life run